Pièce 16 - Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 15-22 June 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.