Subseries 1921 - 1921

Identity area

Reference code

MCPP/GM/3/1/1921

Title

1921

Date(s)

  • April 1921 - 20 October 1921 (Creation)

Level of description

Subseries

Extent and medium

30 letters and 2 diary entries, paper

Context area

Name of creator

Mallory, George Herbert Leigh (1886-1924), mountaineer
(18 June 1886 - 1924)

Archival history

Content and structure area

Scope and content

Outline of 1921 Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition

The aims of the expedition were to explore how to get to the vicinity of Mount Everest, find possible routes to the summit, and if possible attempt the first ascent.

The expedition party consisted of: Charles Howard-Bury (leader), Harold Raeburn and Alexander Kellas (experienced mountaineers), George Mallory and Guy Bullock (younger and less experienced climbers), Sandy Wollaston (naturalist and doctor), Alexander Heron (geologist), Henry Morshead and Oliver Wheeler (surveyors seconded from the army).

During the expedition Kellas died and Raeburn fell ill and had to leave the expedition making Mallory the lead climber.

Bad weather meant they could not make an attempt on the summit.

The expedition succeeded in identifying the North Col as a feasible route to the summit.

April - George Mallory sailed from England to Calcutta in India on board the S.S. Sardinia
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/1-8 - describes the voyage

May - Arrived in India and met up with other members of the expeditionary team at Government House, Darjeeling and began the trek to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/9 - at Government House
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/10-12 - trek to the vicinity of Mount Everest

June - Mallory’s first views of Everest and reconnaissance efforts
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/13 - reports Dr Kellas’ death
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/14 - first view of Mount Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/15 - ‘we are now in a county no European has previously visited’
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/16 - ‘until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/17 - written from ‘1st Base Camp under Everest’

July - Reached 2nd Advanced Base Camp and 1st Base Camp Rongbuk Glacier, further reconnaissance efforts and climbing achievements
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/18-23

August - Confirmed the existence of the North Col and therefore a passageway to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/24-28

September - Bad weather meant they had to abandon plans to attempt to summit and they returned home
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/29-31

October - return trip to England
MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/32 - written from ‘Benares’ on his way home via Marseilles where he met up with Ruth

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      Former Reference

      F/GM/III/1

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