Pièce 27 - Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 12-14 August 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Asks if she wants a holiday with him on his way home. Makes suggestions as to where they could meet, when, and how they would pay for it. Outlines an idea to return with Nyima (one of the porters) who would live with them as a servant. He had fallen ill with sore glands and throat and Bullock had to continue the reconnaisance without him but was unsuccesful. Morshead joined him in camp and as he felt better they joined Bullock.

Detailed Summary
Says he has two projects to discuss. First is whether she would like a holiday with him on his way home. Suggests meeting in Rome or Marseilles, and perhaps touring Provence and walking with rucksacks to Bordeaux. Or they could go to Tours, Chartres or Paris. Then suggests the two could meet in Gibraltar and tour Spain together and take a ship back from Lisbon. Then mentions the Riviera and staying with the Busey’s or would she enjoy Italy more. Asks her to make the plans and says his dates are quite uncertain.

He hopes to get to Darjeeling by 1 October but says there may be delays. He wants to spend two-three weeks in India. She should come supplied with information as he would know nothing about the trains in Europe. If they go to Spain or Italy she must be responsible for the language. Makes suggestions as to who she should contact to make arrangements. Wants to spend some of their £500 War Savings Certificate on giving her a really lovely holiday. Discusses the logistics of train tickets and advises her to consider the relative prices in different countries. She must telegraph him via Bullock in Darjeeling to let him know in what town he should meet her. Gives more detailed instructions and discusses the clothing he may need. He will wire her the date of his departure from India and the name of the ship so she can find out the date of his arrival.

The second project is his idea to bring back one of the expedition porters as a servant. He describes the hypothetical scenario at length detailing the duties in the house he would undertake and asking how he would fit in with the other servants. He suggests Nimya [Nyima] a boy of about 18 who had a perfect temperament and was one of the most helpful people he had ever seen. Details potential wages, dietary requirements, transportation costs. He would have to come for at least two years and then probably return to India. Wonders if he would be happy and whether the other servants would like him. Describes his appearance.

[Letter continues later] - Says he has become ill at a critical moment after a two day trek with sore glands and throat and it wasn’t worth the risk of going up the valley as he must save himself for the big attack. Bullock had gone on alone and sent a chit reporting that the valley didn’t lead to the north col, but ended in a col between two peaks 23,800 and 23,400 N.N.E. of Everest. He was cheered by the arrival of Morshead.

14 August - Feeling better so he went with Morshead up the same valley as Bullock which was very interesting. He planned to camp and reconnoitre. He and Morshead were out for 8 hrs and he had gone to bed as soon as they came back and was no worse. He was tremendously excited as the day after tomorrow they may have their line of attack fixed and if they did it would be a very good one because they would be able to get a very long way without camping on ice.