Subserie 1922 - 1922

22 letters, paper

Outline of 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition

This was the first mountaineering expedition with the express aim of making the first ascent of Mount Everest. It was also the first expedition that attempted to climb Everest using bottled oxygen. In the previous year the reconnaissance expedition had explored the eastern and northern sides of the mountain and had established a possible route to the summit.

The party consisted of Charles G. Bruce (expedition leader), Edward Strutt (deputy leader and mountaineer), George Mallory (mountaineer), George Finch (mountaineer), Edward Norton (mountaineer), Henry Morshead (mountaineer), Dr Howard Somervell (mountaineer), Dr Arthur Wakefield (mountaineer), John Noel (photographer and film maker), Dr Tom Longstaff (expedition medical officer), Geoffrey Bruce (translator and organisation and cousin of Charles G. Bruce), John Morris (translator and organisation) and Colin Crawford (translator and organisation).

After two unsuccessful summit attempts, the expedition ended on the third attempt when an avalanche killed seven climbing sherpas. Not only had the expedition failed to reach the summit, but it also marked the first reported climbing deaths on Mount Everest. The expedition did however establish a new world record climbing height of (27,320 ft).

March - Sea journey from England to India on board the Caledonia and start of trek to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/1 - nearing Port Said
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/2 - nearing Aden
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/3 - nearing Bombay [Mumbai]
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/4 - Chevremont, Darjeeling (21 March)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/5 – Kalimpong (27-28 March)

April - Trek to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/6 – Gnatong (1 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/7 - Phari (6-7 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/8 - Kampa Dzong (12 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/9 - Tinki Dzong (18 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/10 - Shekar Dzong (26 April)

May - Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/11 - Rongbuk Base Camp (2 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/12 - Rongbuk Base Camp (10 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/13 - Camp III (15 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/14 - Camp III (17-18 May); 1st Attempt (20 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/15 - Base Camp; 2nd summit attempt (26 May)

June - Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/16 - Preparation for 3rd summit attempt (1 June)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/17 - Base Camp [Post-Avalanche, (6-7 June)]
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/18 - Camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar] (27-28 June)

July - Return Journey
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/19 – Kharta (1 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/20 - Kharta (1 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/21 - Kampa Dzong (10 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/22 - Chevremont, Darjeeling (26 July)

Norton, E. F., The Fight for Everest 1924, mentions Gnatong location [versus Gangtok, another location].