Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 2nd Advanced Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead
Brief Summary
1st Advanced Base Camp had become a dump for stores. He was strong but Bullock was tired. They had taken photos and cut steps. It was cold, ... »
Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 2nd Advanced Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead
Brief Summary
1st Advanced Base Camp had become a dump for stores. He was strong but Bullock was tired. They had taken photos and cut steps. It was cold, ground hard and stoves didn't work very well. Lists food eaten.
Detailed Summary
They had been having a rather hard time with bad weather and nothing done in the way of reconnaissance and 1st Advanced Base Camp had become a dump for stores. They had had a late start that day and misjudged the crossing of a glacier, which gave the porters practice cutting steps but cost more time and cloud coverage spoiled their views of the W.N.W. cwm. They would try again early tomorrow if it was fine.
He was still going strong but Bullock was tired. Hoped Bullock would get properly fit before long. Their specially adapted high-climbing Primus stoves were useless and they would have to adapt at higher camps. They were at nearly 19,000 ft, the nights were cold and the ground was like iron but the views of the peaks to the west of Everest were glorious. They were currently on a good shelf above the N. [North] bank and had taken photographs in the clearing light last evening.
They planned to start on the way to Tingri the next morning. His first night at 2nd Advanced Camp was miserable with only two Mummery tents and no cook to look after them. He had been struggling with the Primus stoves and a substance called Kampite but they had excellent tinned food, listing Davies Oxford Sausages, sliced bacon, porridge, potatoes. They again had their cook, who in spite of his dirty hands, was rather a treasure.
Next morning he planned to take a selected 4 porters and the sirdar [sardar]. The ground was hard to sleep on but he made himself comfortable enough with his bed socks. Sometimes he was appalled by the mere length of the undertaking and wished it could be shorter.
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