Stuk 12 - Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 May 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Phari, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead.

He had received Ruth's letter from one month prior noting it took about three days for the mail to get from Darjeeling. He was looking up at the mountains as he was writing to her. There had been a change in scenery from the valley and flowers to a wide flat basin, occurring within three hours as they trekked to Phari. Chumolhari was a single snow peak as high above them as the Matterhorn. Phari was a fort squarely built of stone. There were no roofs. Asks after Mrs Hodge, and wonders about letting the house.

They had spent the day crossing the Jelep La in bad weather. He had a nasty headache and was feeling weak folowing rises in elevation. It had been too rough to ride a pony until they got down onto the Chumbi Valley. The descent onto the Tibet side of the Jelep river was beautiful with many blooming flowers and had been surprised to see four enormous vultures. They had spent time at a bungalow hosted by a political officer and his family. The expedition had been living on the country and Wollaston and Wheeler had both been unwell.

[Letter continues later] - Describes weary walks and being affected by the heights. Other members of the party had arrived and together they were to head towards Kampa Dzong and then to Tinki, with ponies and yaks. It was cold and they had experienced dust storms. He slept in a tent with Bullock. Wollaston and Kellas had not yet arrived. Accounts of the expedition written by Howard-Bury would be published in The Times, wired from Bombay and perhaps three weeks ahead of his letters. Howard-Bury was not a kind man, Wheeler had a colonial fashion, and Heron seemed jolly today.