Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933), mountaineer and explorer

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Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933), mountaineer and explorer

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29 January 1873 - 18 March 1933

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Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi was an Italian mountaineer and explorer known for his Arctic explorations and for his mountaineering expeditions, particularly to Mount Saint Elias (Alaska–Yukon) and K2 (Pakistan–China). In 1906 he led an expedition to the Ruwenzori Range (5,125 m), in Uganda. He scaled sixteen summits in the range, including the six principal peaks. One of them, Mount Luigi di Savoia, bears his name. The highest peak was reached on 18 June 1906.

In 1909 he aimed to climb K2 in Karakoram and he and his team reached a height of 6,250 m. The standard route up the mountain (formerly known as K2's East Ridge) climbs today on the Abruzzi Spur.

In an attempt on Chogolisa he and his companions again failed to reach the summit, but set a world altitude record, a height of approximately 7,500 m (24,600 ft) before turning around just 150 m below the summit due to bad weather.

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