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Describes Miss Jekyll's garden. Tells him of a feud between her father and Aunt Theodora over the cutting of some trees on Highdon's Ball. Hopes he is not staying anywhere infested with rats. Discusses what she has been reading in Vanity Fair. Is glad that he is going to tell her more details of the war. She intends to have the Clutton-Brocks over to stay. Wishes him luck with his new Battery.

Asks what happened to him when separated from the others. Hopes her letters are getting through. Describes her morning activities - making butter and china painting. Wonders what he is doing and hopes the war will be over soon. discusses her opinions on a business government. Describes her shopping trip to Hazelmere. Asks him if he has seen any of the action from the front. She intends to write to Avie and send her some of his letters.

Informs him that she is not pregnant. Expresses her wish to have more children. States that she cannot help at the hospital for fear of passing infections to the baby. She intends to stay with Avie in the week. Relays Mr Reade's compliments on his pamphlet. Expresses her concerns about the war and his safety. Tells him she has sent him his protractor.

Asks him what his living conditions are like with Mr Bell. Expresses her concerns over his safety. Informs him she has sent him letters from Mr Benson and Mr Earl. Describes her day and intention to see Nancy Warr in Liverpool. She is glad Violet will not leave to join a munitions factory. Describes how busy his father is. Asks him for more information about climbing the chimney. Tells him she will send him cake when she gets home.

Discusses the idea of investing money at compound interest for Clare's future.

Informs him her box is still missing and Violet has arrived back from her trip. Tells him of the cakes she has made for his mother’s bazaar stall. Describes her activities with Clare in Birkenhead. Discusses her opinions on the sermon his father gave in Church and the National Mission of Repentance and Hope. Wonders how his boots are holding up with all the walking. Asks him what Captain Matheson is like and how his work is going. Tells him she misses him and informs him she intends to see Marjorie that day.

‘Herschel House, Cambridge’ [Letterhead]

Full Transcript

Tuesday the 3rd [March]

My dearest George,

I was very glad to find that The California did not sail after all till Saturday morning. I suppose it was because the weather was so stormy.

I am afraid I am going to do the one thing you told me not to and use a ton of coal straight away. We are under thick snow here. Some fell on Saturday night but on Sunday night there as a heavy fall and yesterday was a glorious sunny day. The children played at making snow men in the afternoon in the garden and had a lovely time. It was thawing most of the day and when I went to bed but it froze later in the night and was freezing hard this morning.

Blunt has again not come so I have rung up Mrs Salter and he is well so I have taken his address and written to him.

Nellie, the new cook is so far very satisfactory. She seems very nice and cooks well.

Frances Wills is coming here tomorrow for five days. I shall enjoy that. We are both going to dine with the Cranages on Thursday before the lecture. So far I seem nearly as full of engagements as I was before you left. People are being most awfully kind and nice. Really I think more friendly than they were at Godalming.

Mrs Cranage rang Vi up to find our when I was coming home that she might meet me with her car. Vi didn’t know, but it was most awfully kind of her.

At Bletchley I got into the same carriage as John Chaister [?]. He was coming to Cambridge to stay with David for the Greek play. So I saw him again in the evening.

I enjoyed seeing the Greek play quite a lot, the dresses were very good and the colour scheme pretty. As I did not understand it there did seem a lot of standing still and spouting at the audience. But I expect if I had understood it I should not have felt that so much.

I am so sorry you left your dressing gown behind. I am sending it to Bombay [Mumbai] and then addressed to Darjeeling in case it misses you.

Wednesday

I see that the California left Gibraltar on the 4th. So now you are in the Mediterranean. I hope it is warm and nice. I am getting rather worried about the garden. If the weather goes on being so cold I shall not possibly be able to get the necessary seed sowing done before I go away. If I can’t do it I think I shall come back for a few days of solid gardening in April.

I hoped to do a lot of greenhouse seed sowing today but I can’t get the seed boxes. The fishmonger promised them but he has not sent them.

I went to the Quay Village performance last night. It was quite good and very well arranged. There was no scenery so there were no long pauses as there so often are in amateur theatricals. I think the whale show was a great credit to Mrs Salter.

The young man we picked up at St. Neots came round yesterday just as we were starting nursery tea so I asked him up and he was quite pleasant and jolly and evidently enjoyed seeing the children. Clare was in an appallingly talkative mood all day yesterday. Nothing would stop her tongue and at tea time she had her fling. I found her this morning before breakfast engaged in writing out thirteen times table. She has determined to write out and learn all the difficult ones up to 19 times she days. Mrs Reade came to lunch yesterday. I took her after lunch to see the new Sidney Sussex chapel and we met Mani Forbes there and they had a long talk about the chapel etc which Mrs Reade evidently enjoyed very much.

I don’t think I was very good company. My period had just come and I wasn’t at all on the spot. I have just fallen down from ladder and all trying to get the climbing things into the loft. Luckily I did not hurt myself at all.

I have heard from Mr Raxworthy. My bank balance is overdrawn £823 and your £112 that is £935 in all. He suggests we sell of our £500 Vickers 4% which would bring in £400 and £400 National War Bond for £420. If we get £2500 for the Holt we need only sell the Vickers I think so I will tell him only to do that for the present.

Dearest one I do hope you are happy and having a good voyage. I am keeping quite cheerful and happy but I do miss you a lot. I think I want your companionship even more than I used to. I know I have rather often been cross and not nice and I am very sorry but the bottom reason has nearly always been because I was unhappy at getting so little of you. I know it is pretty stupid to spoil the times I do have you for those when I don’t.

Very very much love to you my dear one.

Your Loving,
Ruth

Letter from Mary Brooke, Mallory's sister written from Colombo. This letter was found on George Mallory's body in 1999. It was wrapped in a handkerchief along with two other letters.

Full Transcript

Ap. 12th
Steelback Lodge
Galle Face
Columbo

My dearest George

I hope you have been getting the weather reports all right – it will be very interesting to hear whether you can trace a connection with our weather & how long afterwards. Since sending you the observatory report yesterday we have had the most terrific storm – gale of wind from S.W. – torrents of rain & thunder – we had noticed very heavy clouds at the sunset & it looked as if something were approaching, but the storm didn’t break till about 1 a.m. last night. It was most violent for nearly three hours so if you get the same you had better be on the look out – I wonder how far you have got now – I do hope you are getting on well & making good time. We were very disappointed not getting up to Diyatalawa last Monday, we were all packed up & everything planned when a wire came from the C.C. postponing the whole move & in a furious temper that he hadn’t been told some little minor details that no one thought he would want to know. I believe there were some very heated telegrams between him & our Colonel but of course it didn’t alter things & we have just had to wait here in the heat & packed & angry! There is hardly anyone left down here now, but I believe we really shall get off on Monday & are much looking forward to getting up to the hills & a cooler atmosphere. Ralph is going off for a week’s shooting on Thursday – he & another man & they ought to have quite a good time & see a lot of interesting country. They are going to camp out & I believe try for panther & bears at night as it will be full moon. When he gets back we expect Wynyard for a few days on his way home from Shanghai. This place is getting rather gay now with the flamboyant trees & others all coming into flower – I am afraid we shall miss them at their best. We took the children to the museum the other evening. really most interesting – besides all the Ceylon animals, birds insects, precious stones etc they had a very interesting room of the native handicrafts – pottery etc some of it most attractive – I believe you get the best things of that sort at Kandy & we must certainly make an expedition there when we get back here.

With much love & let me have a line when you can
Your loving sister
Mary

Letter from Stella, believed to be Stella Cobden-Sanderson. Postmarked 2 April. Mallory used the envelope to note down the code numbers and pressures of five oxygen cylinders.
This letter was found on George Mallory's body in 1999. It was wrapped in a handkerchief along with two other letters.

Full Transcript

Forum Club,
6, Grosvenor Place,
Hyde Park Corner,
S.W.I.
[Address has been crossed out and replaced with ’23 Hertford Street. W,]

Dear George,

Just after writing to you last week, I saw in The Times that the expedition had started from Darjeeling – And now you are really on the march. I think of you so often & try to imagine what you are doing. What is the weather doing? Is it terribly hot?

I am so longing for sun & warmth that today I have definitely decided to go to my friends near Cannes for about a month from the middle of May – It won't be fashionable but a great great joy to get to the south. The flowers will be heavenly then.

My alternative was to do a round of visits in England. For a long time I was tempted to do this because I love my friends & making new ones. But I suddenly had such a desire for the south & peace. And now I am glad to have decided this.

I expect to go to Paris for Easter with the Macmillans then join the Shears & other American friends in Paris until middle of May. So I shall start with a gay time.

Last night I saw Shaws St Joan” I was very much moved & impressed with it. And I do think that its wonderful of Shaw at his age to write without exaggerating his mannerisms. Some of the dialogues are far too long – But its wonderfully written & without the desire to show his own personality too much. The acting is excellent & its most beautiful to look upon.

I had lunch with Mrss Graies yesterday at her club – Sissie is in Italy & she pressed me to go saying she was lonely & had a great many things she wanted to discuss with me. But these consisted of abuse of Macdonald because she had not seen him, that Ishbel's head had been turned, & that Macdonald had treated Sissie badly. In between this, improper stories. And all this shouted at the top of her voice in a public room. My answers having to be made equally loud down a speaking tube! Poor Sissie, I am really sorry for her.
London with the strikes has been very exhausting & terrible for the wretched daily workers. It’s amazing how good natured is an English crowd.

On Saturday the day of the boat race my brother is expecting nearly 200 as their garden goes down to the river at Hammersmith. Mother & I are not going as we have too many old associations of my father.

I am longing to hear from you since your arrival.
My love to you dear
Your affectionate
Stella

April 2

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Sardinia, ‘in the Mediterranean towards Malta’

Brief Summary
He was keeping a diary with detailed descriptions about the people and events on board ship. He hadn't enjoyed the first few days and was missing her. Lists what he was reading. Describes fellow passengers.

Detailed Summary
Was concerned about when she would receive his letter and hoped he would receive a letter from her once he arrived in Malta but he has his doubts. He wasn't going to write an elaborate account of his life on board ship at the moment as he was keeping a sort of diary which he would send to her at intervals. [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/2, 7 and 26].

She must have been depressed after they parted but he admired her for being so cheerful and brave all the time. Asks her to think of him especially at the times she gave John [their son] his bottle. He had found the first days on the boat utterly hateful and longed to have her with him. He supposes the Morgan children were with her at the Holt. Asks about the garden listing six garden chores which she or Cheeseman could do. It was turning out to be a dull letter.

He had finished Queen Victoria, most of which he greatly enjoyed, and was also reading Martin Chuzzlewit and Santayana. He had been working on his Book of Geoffrey but had made little progress and felt depressed about it. At dinner he sat between Colonel Frazer and a very undistinguished man called Holyake. He describes the Colonel and his conversational skills, the seating plan, and fellow guests at the table. The intellectual life on the boat was lacking and the best person to talk to was the Auxiliary man who had travelled in the East but he was a bore. There were no organised athletics and they had only managed a dance for about 4 couples to the accompaniment of a gramophone. Wished there was more activity. Describes the beauty of the sunlit Mediterranean, the slow pace of travel, and sitting in the bows alone watching the wide sea. They had seen Gibraltar at dawn, the Sierra Nevada later in the day and then the African coast. Describes seeing the Atlas range which contained several fine peaks and rock faces which carried plenty of snow and went up to 10,000 or even 11,000ft.

He anticipated spending six hours in Malta.

Postscript - Wanted to hear about her domestic arrangements and how she liked her companions.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Approaching Colombo’

Brief Summary
Describes fellow passengers. Many on board had been ill. Describes the unquiet ocean. Recovered from a bad headache. They were approaching Colombo.

Detailed Summary
He had been thinking of her a great deal, particularly yesterday on the anniversary of their engagement. Wishes she had been on the voyage with him. He describes his fellow passengers including a ‘Black and Tan’ who worked in the Middle East, the Colonel and Mrs Frazer who were table companions, Mrs Vernon and two other ladies. There were also a number of unpleasant youths. Thought that the people in Second Class looked more interesting but there are obstacles preventing him making their acquaintance. Many on board, including the Captain, were ill but they were being cured with castor oil. He had mild symptoms and had been up in the night and had cut down on his consumption of food.

He had a sense of the nearness of disaster or danger as the sea was as deeply evil as it was attractive. The ocean was so calm at times so that you forgot the violence of which it was capable. He was interested in the contrast of the well behaved passengers on the boat and the ocean outside. It was a gloomy letter and he had not made much progress on his book Geoffrey. He was expecting it to be very hot at Colombo where they should arrive the next morning.

[letter continues later] - They were just reaching Colombo and he felt very cheerful after his splitting headache last night.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.

Letter to Captain [J. P.] Farrar [copied by Ruth from George's original letter]

Everest was a colossal rock peak plastered with snow with faces as steep as he had ever seen.

He and Bullock were at 1st Advanced Base Camp and he describes the North ridge, the glacier and the slopes of the first peak beyond the col which were impossibly steep. He describes the west side of the cwm, and the difficulty in reading his and Bullock’s aneroid heights, giving a reading of 18,650 ft. He thinks the face of the mountain may be completely unassailable.

He describes the summit as rock at a moderately easy angle, and further details possible access points from different directions. He had the dimmest hope of reaching the top, but they would proceed as though they meant to get there.

He estimates his own fitness as well as that of Morshead, Bullock and others. They couldn't pretend they can go on as they did in the Alps. He had found the descents difficult and had been forced to adopt a deep breathing system going down as well as up. Any exertion beyond an even, balanced pace demanded more of one’s organs than they were inclined to give. Wondered how well they could acclimate at elevation. Sets out the plans for the following day and describes the sight of the glacier.

[Letter seems to end abruptly. There may have been another page which is not in the Archive]

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 1st Base Camp, Rongbuk Glacier on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Was disappointed that all the photographs he had taken had not come out. Will go back to their old camps to re take them. Longs for home. Liked walking round camp collecting flowers. Had been having bad weather. Had enjoyed beautiful views from their highest camp. Had called one of the mountains 'Mount Clare' after their daughter. Describes their explorations and other members of the group.

Detailed Summary
Had received three of her letters and was pleased she liked his parcel from Colombo. All the photographs he had with the ¼ plate had not come out [He had put the plates in the wrong way round and blamed instructions given to him by Heron]. He had taken enormous trouble setting up the photographs, many of them were taken at sunrise from places neither he nor anyone else may go again. Was determined to go back to one of their old camps so he could replace the photographs. He had hoped to show them on a future lecture tour and to her. The weather was bad, but they were much more comfortable in their eighty-pound tent.

He was sorry he hadn't been sharing enough of his feelings with her [in her letter Ruth had asked him to share more] but he had been occupied with what they had to do. He longed for home but remained cheerful even though the moments of real enjoyment were rare. He liked walking round camp collecting flowers but the bad weather stopped him. They had to stay in the tents due to the bad weather and he played piquet with Bullock to pass the time.

He had greatly enjoyed their highest camp the night before their attempt on the W. cwm because of the beautiful views. One mountain in particular was singularly lovely and he called it Mount Clare [the name of his eldest daughter. Mount Clare is now called Pumori, meaning 'mountain daughter']. They had done very little climbing and it was a slow and tiresome business crossing the glacier.

The mountains were rather unfriendly compared to the scenery of the Alps. They hadn't seen a tree in Tibet!

Comments on the contents of her letters.

28 July - Woke up to snow on the ground at Base Camp and the weather clearing. He lead a march with six porters and two mummery tents going up about 3,000 ft from Base Camp. Then raced down to join Bullock half an hour short of 2nd Advanced Camp. Passed a comfortable night, though it was freezing. His alarm clock failed to go off, and later they set out in the moonlight, Bullock with two porters up into the N. cwm and him with two others to the little peak. There was a blanket of cloud a few hundred feet above their heads but they went on and he was able to get a clear view for about 30 seconds of Mount Clare [Pumori]. He was able to take ten photographs, and some of Everest, predicting they would turn out well. He had photographed the West Peak feeling that he had repaired a good detail of the damage [referencing his earlier photography mishaps].

Changing weather and thunderstorms had made them abandon their plan due to thick snow. He and Bullock were later reunited with Howard-Bury’s party. Wheeler arrived later the same evening after making his photographic surveys to the west. Wheeler had been doing much of what they had done but alone. It was rather silly that they couldn’t have joined forces. After three days trekking they had arrived at Kharta and the new Expedition Base Camp. He describes the changing scenery, coming down to Cholo.

They were nearer to the Arun Valley and had crossed two passes and were sleeping near clear bubbling streams. Seeing the snow mountains had been full of interest but to see things grow again had been a real joy. Describes a sweet mountain valley and the flowers saying he might have been in the Highlands. Describes camping and being delighted by a particular flower that especially reminding him of her. They were in the Arun Valley before it went down into a narrow and fearsome gorge to Nepal and India. He planned four days’ rest.

31 July - Mail had arrived and he was busy printing photographs which were more successful. He was enjoying the quiet days but at the same time was looking forward to the next stage of their reconnaissance. They planned to follow a big glacier stream which he presumed came from Everest. The great question was the approach to the North col and feasible line of attack. He hoped to find it easier.

He hoped some of the others would join them as it had been disappointing to see so little of Wollaston and Morshead. Shares his current feelings towards Bullock. Refers to poor Wollaston and Raeburn’s absence for medical reasons and that they had no further news about him.

[Postscript] - he enclosed a few earlier photos.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had arrived in France from Newcastle and describes the journey in trucks and the extra provisions they had managed to sneak on board.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Celebrations of peace had continued and took the form of a run out and a large meal. He had been to Lille with the Major, Pemberton, and three men from a battery in Arras. Lille was the third largest town in France, although France didn’t have many. They had lunch in a large hotel used an officers’ club which was entirely an English institution. They had then walked around the town and met others so the party grew to 10. He was depressed in the 1 1/2 hours in the ante room as it was impossible for him to join in the conversation and it was a crowd of rowdy officers of unprepossessing appearance. He skilfully manoeuvred himself to be placed at dinner between two men who seemed capable of ideas beyond incidents in military careers and performances of drunken heroes. Had a long and interesting talk about America. That and half a bottle of bubbly helped him survive the evening. He always started these evenings thinking he would enjoy himself with agreeable companions until he realised that, whatever they were individually, collectively they were all barbarians with whom he had nothing in common.

Trafford had turned up the day before yesterday and had lunch with them. His visit to Trafford was deferred until he had moved quarters. He was trying to arrange for Trafford to take him to Beauvais as he wanted to see the cathedral.

Was sorry she hadn’t found sympathy in the family for her Montessori adventures. That was so like families but she had any amount from him so she shouldn’t be discouraged.

He hoped Trafford would be sending over two planes to photograph the guns so as to furnish them with souvenirs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France and the letter from David Pye that was originally enclosed

Hadn’t received a letter from her or Mildred and he wished for one so he would know she was still getting better.

He had written a long letter to David to try and help him fall in love with Jelly and reassure him that she would make a wonderful wife. Wonders who told David that Jelly was in love with him and if indeed she was.

Had talked to two other Officers from 471 Siege Battery one of whom was returning to England for good and he was a school master so he was hopeful.

It was infernally cold but the wind had cleared the mist which was a blessing. Thought they would be left there for some time. The Major was making no effort to move as he feared their trucks would be taken away which would be a disaster.

Thought it would be a wonderful Xmas and he might write some lines to greet their friends and she could make some illuminated cards. He wonders what stage she is in her recovery.

[enclosed is a letter from David to George written on 12 November 1918]

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had just finished Tess of the d'Urbevilles and talks about his reaction to the story and Hardy's writing.

25 Nov - he had to go to Arras to a Court of Inquiry which was a tiresome business. The Major had toothache last night. He was due to have dinner with Trafford next Wednesday to celebrate the aniversary of him taking over No. 8 Squadron. He would be in Paris on Friday but would probably miss seeing the King as he was due to go on Thursday. Planned on going to the Bibliotèque Nationale.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Describes the purchases he had spent a long time over choosing which included embroideries for the Holt and some books. Describes the bookshops he had been into. Hopes she doesn’t think he has been extravagent.

Had been to the library and held with indescribeable emotion the manuscript of Figaro from which Beaumarchais had read out his play. It had many corrections. It was a genuine sense of wonder and enthusiasm to hold such a document in his hand and more than interesting to see the trials of authorship were the same as they were for him.

Answers her question about opera and explains how it is founded upon well known stories and the libretto was written by a composer.

Had been to the Comédie Française which was a good piece but not one of the very best.

Was sorry he couldn’t stay longer in Paris but was more sorry that he hadn’t received a telegram giving him leave to return to England.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was sorry she was cold staying with the Tallents but it would make her wear her fur coat. Wonders if she attracted more attention when she wore it. He had arranged a private room close to the mess and the prospect of being able to retire to solitude was a wonderful alleviation. She musn’t think of him being depressed at Xmas as they would have a very merry day in the battery.

Hoped to see Robert soon if he could find him in Dunkirk. was sorry she hadn’t see Robert and that Nancy wasn’t more forthcoming.Robert was a good person but his great fault was to value applause more than merit. That might be too hard but he did like publicity far too much.

He had ordered a pair of spectacles. Had been having headaches for the last two days and had hardly read anything which was depressing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Hadn’t felt well so taken some quinine and gone to bed early. Read Quinneys [by Horace Annesley Vachell] which was sufficiently amusing. Thanks for for her Xmas present and wonders what Marbie Mill’s present to him was. No-one would have got him what he really wanted which was a really good torch.

Was going to celerate in the left section of the mess tonight.