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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Hadn’t felt well so taken some quinine and gone to bed early. Read Quinneys [by Horace Annesley Vachell] which was sufficiently amusing. Thanks for for her Xmas present and wonders what Marbie Mill’s present to him was. No-one would have got him what he really wanted which was a really good torch.

Was going to celerate in the left section of the mess tonight.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

Had just got back from a longish walk. His imagination had been wandering in idle leisure among the Alps and planning wonderful expeditions up great mountains. They would get there together next August.

He was feeling quite well again now. In former years they would have called it the flu but that had to be used for more a more violent illness now.

His lecture [on civics] had gone off quite well. The Colonel and other officers seemed quite pleased with it and had suggested other topics he could give further lectures on but he wasn’t keen to do this.

Would she be going to London for the sales? He needed things like civilian collars and shirts but he could get those in Godalming.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had put in for an allotment of leave which hadn’t been refused yet so he was hopeful he would be home soon.

He was busy writing more lectures on freedom and democracy and some economic aspects of history. Was enjoying teaching his French classes. Had succeeded in getting two books from the Y.M.C.A. in Calais. His mind was in a pitiful state anticipating his leave at any moment. He would be heartily glad to say goodbye to the officers of the Right Section.

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Sardinia, ‘in the Mediterranean towards Malta’

Brief Summary
He was keeping a diary with detailed descriptions about the people and events on board ship. He hadn't enjoyed the first few days and was missing her. Lists what he was reading. Describes fellow passengers.

Detailed Summary
Was concerned about when she would receive his letter and hoped he would receive a letter from her once he arrived in Malta but he has his doubts. He wasn't going to write an elaborate account of his life on board ship at the moment as he was keeping a sort of diary which he would send to her at intervals. [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/2, 7 and 26].

She must have been depressed after they parted but he admired her for being so cheerful and brave all the time. Asks her to think of him especially at the times she gave John [their son] his bottle. He had found the first days on the boat utterly hateful and longed to have her with him. He supposes the Morgan children were with her at the Holt. Asks about the garden listing six garden chores which she or Cheeseman could do. It was turning out to be a dull letter.

He had finished Queen Victoria, most of which he greatly enjoyed, and was also reading Martin Chuzzlewit and Santayana. He had been working on his Book of Geoffrey but had made little progress and felt depressed about it. At dinner he sat between Colonel Frazer and a very undistinguished man called Holyake. He describes the Colonel and his conversational skills, the seating plan, and fellow guests at the table. The intellectual life on the boat was lacking and the best person to talk to was the Auxiliary man who had travelled in the East but he was a bore. There were no organised athletics and they had only managed a dance for about 4 couples to the accompaniment of a gramophone. Wished there was more activity. Describes the beauty of the sunlit Mediterranean, the slow pace of travel, and sitting in the bows alone watching the wide sea. They had seen Gibraltar at dawn, the Sierra Nevada later in the day and then the African coast. Describes seeing the Atlas range which contained several fine peaks and rock faces which carried plenty of snow and went up to 10,000 or even 11,000ft.

He anticipated spending six hours in Malta.

Postscript - Wanted to hear about her domestic arrangements and how she liked her companions.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Approaching Colombo’

Brief Summary
Describes fellow passengers. Many on board had been ill. Describes the unquiet ocean. Recovered from a bad headache. They were approaching Colombo.

Detailed Summary
He had been thinking of her a great deal, particularly yesterday on the anniversary of their engagement. Wishes she had been on the voyage with him. He describes his fellow passengers including a ‘Black and Tan’ who worked in the Middle East, the Colonel and Mrs Frazer who were table companions, Mrs Vernon and two other ladies. There were also a number of unpleasant youths. Thought that the people in Second Class looked more interesting but there are obstacles preventing him making their acquaintance. Many on board, including the Captain, were ill but they were being cured with castor oil. He had mild symptoms and had been up in the night and had cut down on his consumption of food.

He had a sense of the nearness of disaster or danger as the sea was as deeply evil as it was attractive. The ocean was so calm at times so that you forgot the violence of which it was capable. He was interested in the contrast of the well behaved passengers on the boat and the ocean outside. It was a gloomy letter and he had not made much progress on his book Geoffrey. He was expecting it to be very hot at Colombo where they should arrive the next morning.

[letter continues later] - They were just reaching Colombo and he felt very cheerful after his splitting headache last night.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.

Letter to Captain [J. P.] Farrar [copied by Ruth from George's original letter]

Everest was a colossal rock peak plastered with snow with faces as steep as he had ever seen.

He and Bullock were at 1st Advanced Base Camp and he describes the North ridge, the glacier and the slopes of the first peak beyond the col which were impossibly steep. He describes the west side of the cwm, and the difficulty in reading his and Bullock’s aneroid heights, giving a reading of 18,650 ft. He thinks the face of the mountain may be completely unassailable.

He describes the summit as rock at a moderately easy angle, and further details possible access points from different directions. He had the dimmest hope of reaching the top, but they would proceed as though they meant to get there.

He estimates his own fitness as well as that of Morshead, Bullock and others. They couldn't pretend they can go on as they did in the Alps. He had found the descents difficult and had been forced to adopt a deep breathing system going down as well as up. Any exertion beyond an even, balanced pace demanded more of one’s organs than they were inclined to give. Wondered how well they could acclimate at elevation. Sets out the plans for the following day and describes the sight of the glacier.

[Letter seems to end abruptly. There may have been another page which is not in the Archive]

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 1st Base Camp, Rongbuk Glacier on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Was disappointed that all the photographs he had taken had not come out. Will go back to their old camps to re take them. Longs for home. Liked walking round camp collecting flowers. Had been having bad weather. Had enjoyed beautiful views from their highest camp. Had called one of the mountains 'Mount Clare' after their daughter. Describes their explorations and other members of the group.

Detailed Summary
Had received three of her letters and was pleased she liked his parcel from Colombo. All the photographs he had with the ¼ plate had not come out [He had put the plates in the wrong way round and blamed instructions given to him by Heron]. He had taken enormous trouble setting up the photographs, many of them were taken at sunrise from places neither he nor anyone else may go again. Was determined to go back to one of their old camps so he could replace the photographs. He had hoped to show them on a future lecture tour and to her. The weather was bad, but they were much more comfortable in their eighty-pound tent.

He was sorry he hadn't been sharing enough of his feelings with her [in her letter Ruth had asked him to share more] but he had been occupied with what they had to do. He longed for home but remained cheerful even though the moments of real enjoyment were rare. He liked walking round camp collecting flowers but the bad weather stopped him. They had to stay in the tents due to the bad weather and he played piquet with Bullock to pass the time.

He had greatly enjoyed their highest camp the night before their attempt on the W. cwm because of the beautiful views. One mountain in particular was singularly lovely and he called it Mount Clare [the name of his eldest daughter. Mount Clare is now called Pumori, meaning 'mountain daughter']. They had done very little climbing and it was a slow and tiresome business crossing the glacier.

The mountains were rather unfriendly compared to the scenery of the Alps. They hadn't seen a tree in Tibet!

Comments on the contents of her letters.

28 July - Woke up to snow on the ground at Base Camp and the weather clearing. He lead a march with six porters and two mummery tents going up about 3,000 ft from Base Camp. Then raced down to join Bullock half an hour short of 2nd Advanced Camp. Passed a comfortable night, though it was freezing. His alarm clock failed to go off, and later they set out in the moonlight, Bullock with two porters up into the N. cwm and him with two others to the little peak. There was a blanket of cloud a few hundred feet above their heads but they went on and he was able to get a clear view for about 30 seconds of Mount Clare [Pumori]. He was able to take ten photographs, and some of Everest, predicting they would turn out well. He had photographed the West Peak feeling that he had repaired a good detail of the damage [referencing his earlier photography mishaps].

Changing weather and thunderstorms had made them abandon their plan due to thick snow. He and Bullock were later reunited with Howard-Bury’s party. Wheeler arrived later the same evening after making his photographic surveys to the west. Wheeler had been doing much of what they had done but alone. It was rather silly that they couldn’t have joined forces. After three days trekking they had arrived at Kharta and the new Expedition Base Camp. He describes the changing scenery, coming down to Cholo.

They were nearer to the Arun Valley and had crossed two passes and were sleeping near clear bubbling streams. Seeing the snow mountains had been full of interest but to see things grow again had been a real joy. Describes a sweet mountain valley and the flowers saying he might have been in the Highlands. Describes camping and being delighted by a particular flower that especially reminding him of her. They were in the Arun Valley before it went down into a narrow and fearsome gorge to Nepal and India. He planned four days’ rest.

31 July - Mail had arrived and he was busy printing photographs which were more successful. He was enjoying the quiet days but at the same time was looking forward to the next stage of their reconnaissance. They planned to follow a big glacier stream which he presumed came from Everest. The great question was the approach to the North col and feasible line of attack. He hoped to find it easier.

He hoped some of the others would join them as it had been disappointing to see so little of Wollaston and Morshead. Shares his current feelings towards Bullock. Refers to poor Wollaston and Raeburn’s absence for medical reasons and that they had no further news about him.

[Postscript] - he enclosed a few earlier photos.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from 'Gnatong’

He had been stupefied by a cold and the repetition of last’s year’s march was not as exciting as the new sensation of seeing Sikkim. The landscape was disappointing and not at its best as no rain had yet fallen, the sense of bursting growth was absent. The previous day should have been the day of rhododendrons but only a few of the lower ones were out and the magnolias were disappointing as there were only white ones. However it was an enjoyable journey and everyone was cheerful and happy, particularly General Bruce. It was exhilarating to feel the high clean air again and to sleep above 12,000 ft and except for some cold and cough lingering he felt fit enough. Longstaff wasn’t fit yesterday and had a bad headache.

He kept company with Noel, who was filming and taking photographs and who was very pleased with a film of him bathing.

The air was quite clear as they were above the valley haze. He planned to start early the next day and get up a peak and see what should be an amazing view of the Sikkim mountains, Kangchenjunga.

He thinks of her and home and wishes they could meet once a month so he could hear her tell him about everything.

Letter to Ruth Mallory describing the Avalanche in which 7 porters were killed.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth, I will answer what I imagine to be your first thought - it was a wonderful escape for me & we may indeed be thankful for that together. Dear love when I think what your grief would have been I humbly thank God I am alive.

/ It’s difficult to get it all straight in my mind. The consequences of my mistake are so terrible; it seems almost impossible to believe that it has happened for ever & that I can do nothing to make good. There is no obligation I have so much wanted to honour as that of taking care of these men; they are children where mountain dangers are concerned & they do so much for us; and now through my fault seven of them have been killed. I must try to tell you how the accident happened. But remember dearest one, not that I can imagine for a moment you would be harsh in your judgement that though I may have been mistaken I was neither reckless about the whole party nor careless about the coolies in particular.

When we started from the Base Camp on June 3 the clouds were thickening & it was evident that very soon the monsoon would be upon us; but none can say how soon in such circumstances the monsoon will make climbing impossible. I walked up half despondently with Finch to No 1 Camp; he was clearly quite unfit & could barely reach the camp. Next morning he went back to the Base leaving Somervell & me for the high climbing with Wakefield and Crawford to be back us up.

During the night of the 3rd snow fell heavily & continued on the 4th. We spent a cold day in the poor shelter at Camp 1, a little hut with walls about 3 ft 6 in high built of the stones that lay about there & roofed with the outer fly of Whymper tent. The white snow dust blew in through the chink & one wondered naturally, Isn’t it mere foolishness to be attempting Everest now that the snow has come? It was clear that if we were to give up the attempt at once no one would have a word to say against our decision. But it seemed to me too early to turn back & too easy - we should not be satisfied afterwards. It would not be unreasonable to expect a spell of fair weather after the first snow as there was last year; this might give us our chance at last, a calm day in the balance between the prevailing west wind & the south east monsoon current. And if we were to fail how much better I thought to be turned back by a definite danger or difficulty on the mountain itself.

On the 5th will too [many crossed through] much cloud still hanging about the glacier we went up in one long march to Camp 3 - a wet walk in the melting snow & with some snow falling. At the camp not less than a foot of snow covered everything. The tents which had been struck but not packed up contained a mixture of ice, snow, & water; more than one was badly rent in putting it up. The prospects were not very hopeful.

There was no question of doing anything on the 6th, the best we asked for was a warm day’s rest. We had a clear day of brilliant sunshine, the warmest by far that any of us remembered at camp 3. The snow solidified with amazing rapidity; the rocks began to appear about our camp; and though the side of Everest facing us looked cold & white we had the satisfaction of observing during the greater part of the day a cloud of snow blown from the North Ridge. It would not be long at that rate before it was fit to climb.
The heavy snow of the 4th & 5th affected our plans in two ways. As we should have to expect heavier work high up we should have hardly a chance of reaching the top without oxygen, & in spite of Finch’s absence with his expert knowledge we decided to carry up ten cylinders with the two apparatus used by Finch and G. Bruce to our old camp established on the first attempt at 25,000 ft; so far we should go without oxygen; in taking up the camp (one of the 2 Mummery tents & the sleeping sacks) another 1000 ft we might find it advisable to use each one cylinder; in any case we should have 4 cylinders each to carry on with us next day.

Our chief anxiety was to provide for the safety of the [‘coolies’ crossed out] porters. We hoped the conditions might be good enough to send them down by themselves to the North Col; & it was arranged that Crawford should meet them at the foot of the ridge to conduct them properly roped over the crevasses to Camp 4; there they would remain until we came back from the higher camp & all would go down together. Crawford was also to arrange for the conduct of certain superfluous porters who were to come up to Camp 4 but not stay there across the steep slope below the camp, the one place which in the new conditions might prove dangerous. With these plans we thought we might move up from Camp IV on the 4th day of fine weather should the weather hold, & still bring down the party safely whatever the monsoon might do. A change of weather was to be feared sooner or later, but we were confident we could descend the North Ridge from our high camp in bad weather if necessary, & three of us, or if Wakefield came up, four, would then be available to shepherd the coolies down from the North Col.

But the North Col has first to be reached. With the new snow to contend with we should have hard work; perhaps it would take us more than one day; the steep final slope might be dangerous; we should perhaps find it prudent to leave our loads below it & come up easily enough in our frozen tracks another day.
We set out from Camp 3, Somervell Crawford, & I with 14 porters at 8 a.m. on the 7th. A party including four of the strongest porters were selected to lead the way over the glacier. They did splendid work trudging the snow with loads on their backs; but it took us two hours to the foot of the great snow wall & it was 10.15 a.m. when Somervell, I, one porter, & Crawford, roped up in that order, began the ascent. We found no traces at first of our previous tracks, & were soon crossing a steep ice slope covered with snow. It was remarkable that the snow adhered so well to this slope, where we had found bare ice before, that we were able to get up without cutting steps. In this harmless place we had tested the snow & were more than satisfied.
Higher up the angle eases off & we had formally walked up at comparatively gently angels in the old snow until it was necessary to cross the final step slope below Camp 4.

Now we had to content with snow up to our knees. Crawford relieved Somervell & then I took a turn. About 1.30 p.m. I halted & the porters following in three parties came up with us. Somervell who was the least tired among us now went ahead continuing in our old line & still on gentle slopes about 200 ft below some blocks of fallen ice which mark the final traverse to the left over steeper ground. I was following up in the steps last on our rope of four when at 1.50, I heard a noise not unlike an explosion of untamped gunpowder. I had never before been [knew crossed out] near an avalanche of snow: but I knew the meaning of that noise as though I were accustomed to hear it every day. In a moment I observed the snow’s surface broken only a few yards away to the right & instinctively moved in that direction. And then I was moving downward. Somehow I managed to turn out from the slope so as to avoid being pushed headlong & backwards down it. For the briefest moment my chances seemed good as I went quietly sliding down, with the snow, Then the rope at my waist tightened & held me back. A wave of snow came over me. I supposed that the matter was settled. However I thrust out my arms to keep them above the snow & at the same time tried to raise by back, with the result that when after a few seconds the motion stopped I felt little pressure from the snow & found myself on the surface.
The rope was still tight about my waist & I imagined that the porter tied on next one must be deeply buried; but he quickly emerged near me no worse off than myself. Somervell & Crawford too were quite close to me & soon extricated themselves, apparently their experiences were much the same as mine. And where were the [rest crossed through] porters, we asked? Looking down over the broken snow we saw one group some distance below us. Presumably the rest must be buried somewhere between us & them. No sign of them appeared; and those we saw turned out to be the group who had been immediately behind us. Somehow they must have been caught in a more rapid stream & carried down a hundred feet further than us. They pointed below them; the others were down there.

It became only too plain as we hurried down that the men we saw were standing only a little way above a formidable drop. The others had been carried over. We found the ice cliff to be from 40 ft to 60 ft high, the crevasse below it was filled up with the avalanche snow & these signs enough to show us that the two missing parties of four & five were buried under it. From the first we entertained little hope of saving them. The fall alone must have killed the majority, & such proved to be the case as we dug out the bodies. Two men were rescued alive & were subsequently found to have sustained no severe injuries; the remaining seven lost their lives /.

There is the narrative - the bare facts, on separate sheets for your convenience - not my letter to you but a more impersonal account explaining our plans & their fatal conclusion. I hope it will suffice to let you understand what we were about. You may read between the lines how anxious I was about the venture. S. [Somervell] & I knew enough about Mount Everest not to treat so formidable a mountain contemptuously. But it was not a desperate game, I thought, with the plans we made. Perhaps with the habit of dealing with certain kinds of danger one becomes accustomed to measuring some that are best left unmeasured & untried. But in the end I come back to my ignorance; one generalises from too few observations & what a lifetime it requires to know all about it! I suppose if we had known a little more about conditions of snow here we should not have tried those slopes – [but crossed through] and not knowing we supposed too much from the only experience we had. The three of us were deceived; there wasn’t an inkling of danger among us. //

Writes again on ‘June 14’ [one week after avalanche] – In the interval since I began writing we have packed up our traps and are on our way down - actually I am sitting in a sheltered nook above that little patch of vegetation by the stream above Chobu [village], & it is raining softly which many account for some curious mark on the paper. I don’t want you to think dearest that I am in perpetual gloom over the accident. One has to wear a cheerful face & be sociable in a company such as we are. But my mind does go back very often to the terrible consequences of our attempt with great sadness.

I think it would be a good thing to send a copy of my narrative to a few climbing friends. Claude, to show to his climbing party, David & Herbert Reade. It won’t be of great interest to people who aren’t climbers I should suppose, but one might be circulated to my family too if you think they would like it. I have written to my father & to Geoffrey Young, Younghusband (very briefly) & Frank Fletcher. Please also send the account to Farrar asking him to read it and send it back to you (I don’t much want it to become an official document in the A.C., or at least not yet). And in circulating the narrative you will quote my remarks on p. 7 between marks //.

I don’t know whether you will have got the hang of our plans & arrangements. The reason for going to Kharta is really that the General wants to see that part of the country; the excuse that we want to collect flowers & birds & beasts. I had the chance of going back straight from here, but the chance of seeing the early flowers over the other side was too good to be missed & I’m still hoping to get back after a week or ten days there by a short cut through the corner of Nepal which would be a very interesting journey though extremely wet & should land me in Darjeeling before the middle of July. However that depends much on transport arrangements & I want to get someone to come with me who understands these lingos- perhaps Norton. My possible dates for leaving Bombay are 22nd, 29th July and 1st and 5th of Aug. I shall avoid the 29th if possible as it is a small boat P&O & I would sooner take the Trieste boat on the 1st & come overland. The 22nd is too early in all probability & the 5th (also P&O) is the best boat they have which is a consideration when meeting the monsoon. If I come by P&O I shall probably come to London; anyway I’ll wire giving simply a date (i.e. that of leaving Bombay) and write or wire again from Marseilles or Venice. I’ve been thinking much since your last letter dated April 22 etc. what we would like best to do in early autumn. PyP [Pen-y-Pass] is always attractive & it would be a very pleasant little party; I think we must wait to fix that if we feel like it. Prima facie I’m more in favour of breaking new ground & Richmond in early September might be perfect if Mill [Ruth's sister Mildred?] wants us. I suppose Bob has a job at Catterick; lucky man; he might teach me to fish in those dale streams. I’ve always wanted to go to Richmond.
I’m glad you like the book on botany & find it helpful; we shall be too late to make much use of it together this year, but it’s a thing we must do together sometime – I mean to learn much more about flowers for our children’s sake if for no other reason. But there is another reason; - there is a little shrub in front of me now most prettily blooming with a pink flower, not unlike a rather stiff & thorny rosemary, only the flower is more chartered - which I should much like to introduce into our garden but I can’t tell it’s species.

We are in much reduced company now - Strutt, Longstaff, Finch, & Morshead went off to Darjeeling retracing our steps, about a week ago, & Norton, G. Bruce to Kharta, where we shall rejoin them. I’m much distressed about Morshead’s hands. I fear he’s certain to lose at least the tips (i.e. 1st joints) of 3 fingers on the right hand; & he had a good deal of pain too. G.B. [G. Bruce] writes that his toes are troublesome, but no great harm was done there, & Norton, who was quite knocked out by our climb & a dispirited man after it he has now discovered that what he thought were bruises in the soles of his feet are really frostbite & bad enough to prevent him walking seriously. My finger has almost recovered except for a black nail, so I got off very lightly.
I must finish this off for a mail which is to go off at once. Please give my love to your Father & Marby [written up the side margin:] and make the understand as far as possible about the accident. Many hugs and kisses to the children and endless love to you dearest one. Your Loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Describes trek so far and outlines plans to get home from India.

Detailed Summary
It gave him a certain pleasure to write this address as it meant he was getting towards home. Their trek had not gone perfectly so far and he compares their progress to his and Bullock’s the previous year. The three of them had 20 animals this time to care for and stores etc. for Somervell and Crawford to stay a fortnight in the Lhonak Valley. They hoped to get over the Naku La, the next pass to the west of the one he and Bullock had crossed the previous year, and so into the valley the day after tomorrow but thought there might be difficulties.

He had decided to catch the Narcunda on 5th August and so would be 4 days later than if he went on the Trieste line to Venice as it would be less expensive. The extra days in India would just allow him to see Delhi without undue hurry. He hoped to meet Hugh Aeber Percy there. Hoped to see her again around 26 August.

He had received two good letters from her and one from Avie [his sister]. His was glad his father had received the honour of being made a Canon as he had been rather missed out before. Comments on Ruth's letter saying she was splendid to take on so much and was very glad she was managing to keep the gardens going too. Her news about flowers coming out interested him greatly. Understood from her remarks that John [their son] was tremendously admired. What thrilled him most was to hear of his great purple-faced rage!

He wouldn't be able to stay with the Bullocks at La Havre on his way home but thought they could do it later as it would make a delightful and cheap holiday to go to Rouen for a few days and stay 2 or 3 nights with them en route.

Tibet was much more attractive now than when they came out. He, Somervell, and Crawford made a happy little party and he had been enjoying the days since they left Teng. Would probably stay again with the Morsheads in Darjeeling. The last news they had of him was rather better and Longstaff thought all his toes and the fingers on his left hand would be saved.

He was sitting in the last sun which was shining brilliantly on the Dzong, a glorious sight from the lovely green meadows where their tents were pitched. The men with whom they were arranging their transport for the next day had just arrived.

[Letter continues later] - Had a terrible argument with the Tibetans as they didn't want to go their way. But he thought they would give in. Their dinner was delayed as their cook was also their interpreter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Chevremont, Darjeeling [Letterhead]’

Brief Summary
Somervell and Crawford were to stay in the Lhonak Valley for 2 weeks. Describes his onward journey without them. Morshead was mainly recovered and his fingers and toes were recovering.

Detailed Sumary
Is concerned about the mail and missing letters from her. What was more serious was letters sent off by him from Kampa Dzong - evidently hadn't got through. Correspondence seemed a hopeless business. He would be later than previously discussed and so should meet in London. It would be best to meet at the docks but doesn't want her to wait for hours.

Describes his journey since he had left Somervell and Crawford in the Lhonak Valley in the north of Sikkim. As she hadn't received some of his letters she might not know the three of them came through the short way from Kharta together leaving the others to come round by Shekar Dzong and Phari, etc. Their way was the same as his and Bullocks the previous year. Could she follow the route on her map? It was difficult to get the Tibetans to go that way and they had to go to Kampa Dzong for transport and waste a day there.

A land slip had rendered the pass down to Laachen unusable and it had fallen out of use until the jungle had covered it over. He believed a bridge had broken too. The others were to spend a fortnight or so in the upper part of the valley, so he made the march eastward to Tango. He started with two yaks and ended about midnight with one. He stayed 3 nights at Tango collecting his baggage from the Lhonuk La and then came through without delay, though in the last stages he had to leave his kit and it arrived a day after him. Sikkim was much less wet than expected. His memories of Sikkim were chiefly of rushing swollen streams and leaches.

Morshead was well and cheery and his left hand had practically recovered. Three fingers at the right were still bound up. One big toe still gave him trouble but was healing up well.

He wouldn't write more now as he had several jobs to do. Hopes they wouldn't be quite ruined by the time he reached home as attractions in the shops were irresistible. Apart from a large bag he had hardly touched the £200 to his credit with the bank there.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from New York [no letterhead on 3 lined pages, but last page is on ‘Waldorf-Astoria, New York’ letterheaded paper]

Brief Summary
Describes his day to day activities – social engagements, an interview with the press, attending the American Alpine Club dinner, drinking gin during Prohibition and his impressions of New York.

Detailed Summary
[1 Feb] – Expresses sympathy that the family wanted everything to be done for them and she had no Vi to help and couldn’t go out freely in the evening and be gay. She must be lonely and he was lonely too at times.

He was sitting in a small restaurant having dinner. Life had been pretty full since he had returned to New York last Monday. He had dined with the Watlens on Monday evening. He had been woken early on Tuesday morning by the noises of 5th Avenue even though he was on the 12th floor. He mostly ate breakfast in the hotel and spend the morning preparing his speech or paying business calls. Before his speech there was music played by some very talented Russians. He spoke for about 20 mins and thought they were satisfied though not enthusiastic.

[Continues later] – He had visited the Oppenheimers [she was a relation of Aunt Jessie’s] and they had been to a revue which was appalling and his ear drums were split.

He had been interviewed by a young man who collected news for the press and was connected with the hotel. Then had a chance meeting with Tom Pym, head of Cambridge House in London and an old Cambridge friend. After dinner he went to the University Club, where he was a temporary member, to look at some of the new books and the Manchester Guardian Weekly.

On Wednesday morning he intended to work on his speech but had been interrupted by telephone calls and one or two letters. He had spoken to Mr Carson for over an hour. He was a ‘curious shrivelled respectable disillusioned observant journalistic person’. He had lunched with Dr Pierce and friends and then been taken to the Presbyterian hospital where they tested his lungs, finding out that his vital capacity was 2 x normal.

[2 Feb] – He had been for tea with Mrs Wheeler, a theatrical lady. At a dinner at the American Alpine Club he sat next to a parson who was keen to impart information but was without interest in anything he [Mallory] had to say. On the other side of him was a lady who had climbed a peak in Alaska and endured a temperature of -60 degrees and whose intelligence had remained frozen even since.

In his speech the parson had read three passages from the Everest book of 1921. He discussed the problem of climbing Mount Everest and afterwards sat at a round table and was bombarded with questions.

They drank nothing but water [due to Prohibition] but afterwards he went with an Alpine Club man to the swellest of N.Y. clubs. They went down to the old wine cellar which was lined with lockers and retrieved a bottle of gin from one of them. The barman mixed three long drinks known as ‘Tom Collins’.

On Thursday he had gone downtown to meet George Walton and another man called Hubbard at the Corn Exchange. They had gone to Hubbard’s club for lunch at the top of one of the highest buildings in N.Y. They went up in the express lift to floor 35 and then slowly up to 40.

He had then met Mrs Cobden Sanderson for tea. Then was busy with arrangements until Poel came to see him. Poel was an old friend from Cambridge days, the nephew of William Poel, who helped to start their Marlowe Society at Cambridge. Poel gave him a ticket for Hamlet, in which he played the ghost.

His lectures in Philadelphia had gone well and he had enjoyed it. Lists upcoming lectures. He had been to see manuscripts of Boswell’s letters to Temple in Pierpont Morgan’s Library.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Hotel Flanders’ [Letterhead], ‘Waiting Room, Sheffield Mass’

Brief Summary
Describes his trip to the opera, compares the audience at a classical concert with an English audience, gives his opinion on American women, their conversational skills and lack of intelligence, and his time staying with the Burrs in Boston which he enjoyed.

Detailed Summary
[Starts the letter on 25th Feb in the waiting room waiting for his train] - His impressions of America were more agreeable when he wasn’t in New York. Recaps his time in New York where he had felt ill before travelling to Boston.

He had attended the opera which was reputed to be done better there than anywhere else. He imagined it was the biggest opera house holding 5,000 people and was always full with the boxes being taken for the season. Wonders how many New Yorkers went to the opera because they loved it and how many went for other reasons. The ladies pushed forward in their gorgeous dresses and diamonds and pearls and were illuminated as though they were the sight everyone had come to see. Compares the display of wealth and splendour with France in the time of Louis XIV. The orchestra was extraordinarily fine and sensitive, the singing good, the costume well done and the acting ‘quite amazingly better than anything I have seen elsewhere. Concluded the audience was really fond of music.

The atmosphere of New York was so charged with amazing contrasts it was impossible to generalise. It was vastly cosmopolitan with the German and Latin elements helping so far as music was concerned. He had been to two concerts at the Aeolian Hall. Describes how the audience reacted to Beethoven, Chopin and Liszt. Compares them with an English audience.

The most marked trait was a lack of depth with the atmosphere being sprightly and superficial. Thought the women knew extremely little and had very untrained minds although they appeared intelligent at first. The great subjects of conversation for him were Europe and the differences between England and America. It was amazing how many Americans had travelled to Europe. It was the first thing they did when they got rich enough. They were very conscious of being a new country.

Has to stop writing as the train had arrived.

[27 Feb letter continues] - Boston was being very kind to him as were Mr and Mrs Burrs in whose home he was staying. He was a member of the Alpine Club and gave a large dinner in his honour last night with nearly 40 men present at a room at the Union Club. He did not enjoy these functions, particularly when he had to speak. He was very busy seeing people who were all very pleasant and much more like the English than New Yorkers.

Asks for news of Arthur [wo had undergone a second operation]. He was enjoying bits of things, but the background was all grey. Didn’t hope to get away much before the end of March.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Toledo Club’ [Letterhead]

He had been staying with the Burrs who were a lovely couple [he describes them].

He had given a lecture at Harvard where the audience had received him well and were ‘evidently thrilled and amused’. People over there were really impressed by the story and he felt the lectures had been worthwhile even though the number had remained small. The other lecture in Boston had been attended by members of the Rucksack Club, Pinnacle Club, and the Appalachian Mountain Club. He had dined before the lecture and shaken hands with an incredible number of people. He preferred the New Englanders to the New Yorkers. A public lecture was going to be arranged in Boston later and the clubs wanted him too but very few would pay the price.

He left Boston on Friday after being interviewed by the press and travelled to Philadelphia for a lecture on Saturday with a big audience of at least 1200. On Monday he took a train to Toledo for an evening lecture and comments on the architecture he saw. He was travelling overnight on the train to Buffalo and hoped to see Niagara the following day.

Thanks Clare for her letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on the train on paper with a ‘Rock Island Lines’ letterhead

He was on his way to Iowa City which was the furthest west he would go. He had received her letter with the best news about Arthur. He was sorry she was having bad luck with the car.

He was sitting in an observation car which was at the end of the train with large windows. Since leaving Chicago it had become more snowy as Chicago had a milder climate than the east due to Lake Michigan. Describes passing through outlying factories and that they had just crossed the Mississippi or Missouri at Davenport which was a very impressive river.

He was amused to read the letter from Miss Marjorie Holmes which Ruth had sent to him.

His ship home would dock in Plymouth and he makes suggestions about where they could meet.

He was disappointed at not being able to lecture in Chicago. The Geographic Society had offered $200 but Keedick had refused as a school not far from Massachusetts had paid $250. The trouble all along had been a bitter fight between Keedick, who thought his lectures were the best and were worth a certain amount, and various bodies who wanted to pay less.

[letter continues, Chicago Tuesday evening the 13th] – a dull show at Iowa and then he had missed his train to Toronto so would arrive at 4.30pm rather than 8.30am. He had eaten a cheap but good dinner in a cafeteria and was going to find a movie show as he hadn’t seen one in that country yet.

He had been very bad about writing home and didn’t know why writing letters had proved so impossible out there. Writing in the train was slow work and was hardly worth trying. He also had endless notes to write about engagements.

He was looking forward to seeing her and spending Spring with her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’17 Carlyle Rd, Cambridge’

Brief Summary
George left America after this lecture tour in March 1923. This letter is written in October to Ruth ahead of their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would receive news of George’s death 8 moths later.

Most of this letter concerns plans for moving into Herschel House, including logistics and decorating and furniture choices. The end of the letter is about plans for another expedition to Mount Everest in 1924.

Detailed Summary
They could get into Herschel House on Monday 29th after he had been to a Climbers Club Committee meeting. He had arranged for furniture from the Holt to be cleared on the Saturday morning. Wondered if he should be there for the packing but doubts if it was worthwhile. If he went by car he could take a few plants if there were any she hadn’t already taken.

They would have to wait to make decisions about getting more paper from Jeffries’ for the hall etc.

He had seen Uncle Lawrence and arranged not to have the mantlepiece at present. He had the address of a firm who supplied Dutch blue tiles but he wanted the address of the firm her father had recommended.

He would make out a list of plants he wanted for her guidance and asks if she will inform Westbrook when they would want the stuff from there.

The sale at Herschel House would be on Tuesday 30th in a tent in the garden but there was so little it wouldn’t interfere with their moving in but wondered if they should go to the Elliot’s until it was over. There would be a good new bed in the sale and thought her bargain with Marby [Ruth’s sister Marjorie] wasn’t a good one as it would mean an extra mattress but he would leave it to her.

He would write to Alex Turner to ask their advice about what fixtures they could take from the Holt such as electric light fittings and curtain rods.

They would wait to decide about curtains although he inclined to the new zig zag stuff for the study.

Sealing wax paint couldn’t be used. Could they do a design in a simple colour, white or yellow or umber on the doors and some simple affair on the staircase? He was veering toward brown stain again. As they weren’t going to spend money on the drawing room mantlepiece they could spend more on the staircase.

[Letter continues later] – he had a very tiring drive back last night with a lot of mist. The committee meeting had been long but good. Farrar wouldn’t turn up as he was angry about turning down Finch. Bruce had been in a hotel in Switzerland where Finch had been and was asked whether it was he who was helping Finch to arrange the next expedition [to Mount Everest].

They had to contradict tales about a shortage of funds. Longstaff had heard of it and thought it was very wrong of Farrar as it wasn’t true. Had dinner with Longstaff. Hinks had written to Cranage about his going and he brought up the question with Longstaff although Hinks’ letter hadn’t turned up. He had not turned it down definitely, but he didn’t think they would hear of this going. It would be a big sacrifice for him either way.

It was wretched not being able to talk to her about. She must tell him if she couldn't bear the idea of him going again and that would settle it.