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Keedick, Lee, New York tour manager and press agent for George Mallory With digital objects
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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 12 March 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on the train on paper with a ‘Rock Island Lines’ letterhead

He was on his way to Iowa City which was the furthest west he would go. He had received her letter with the best news about Arthur. He was sorry she was having bad luck with the car.

He was sitting in an observation car which was at the end of the train with large windows. Since leaving Chicago it had become more snowy as Chicago had a milder climate than the east due to Lake Michigan. Describes passing through outlying factories and that they had just crossed the Mississippi or Missouri at Davenport which was a very impressive river.

He was amused to read the letter from Miss Marjorie Holmes which Ruth had sent to him.

His ship home would dock in Plymouth and he makes suggestions about where they could meet.

He was disappointed at not being able to lecture in Chicago. The Geographic Society had offered $200 but Keedick had refused as a school not far from Massachusetts had paid $250. The trouble all along had been a bitter fight between Keedick, who thought his lectures were the best and were worth a certain amount, and various bodies who wanted to pay less.

[letter continues, Chicago Tuesday evening the 13th] – a dull show at Iowa and then he had missed his train to Toronto so would arrive at 4.30pm rather than 8.30am. He had eaten a cheap but good dinner in a cafeteria and was going to find a movie show as he hadn’t seen one in that country yet.

He had been very bad about writing home and didn’t know why writing letters had proved so impossible out there. Writing in the train was slow work and was hardly worth trying. He also had endless notes to write about engagements.

He was looking forward to seeing her and spending Spring with her.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 15 February 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 19 February 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 19 January 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory from The Waldorf-Astoria, New York [letterhead]

His agent, Keedick, had met him from the boat and taken him to the hotel. He had arranged a few lecture dates but was waiting to see how it caught on. He had been to see a melodrama at the Broadhurst Theatre which was where he was due to give lectures on 4 and 11 February. He had been interviewed by 4 pressmen and they had gone away happy. Had a long talk with a young man who circulated to the press information about the hotel’s distinguished visitors. The young man had told him of a self made industrial magnate who had said education was a waste of time and they tried to set up an animated discussion by getting him [Mallory] to say all the mountaineers on the expedition were men of science or that mental training had more to do with the matter than physique. He thought this was very childish and that Americans were boyish.

Describes the architecture of the buildings, the skyscrapers, his admiration of the Public Library on 5th Avenue, and the streets at night.

It had been nice to be in the theatre where he was to lecture. The acting had been slow and the audience very simple. He would have to change his style of lecturing but thought he would be able to get hold of them.

His social engagements were not very satisfactory but realised he had few introductions and hoped people who had promised to write to friends had done so.

The prices were astonishing - 7d for 3 bits of toast at breakfast and 1s for an orange.

He had found Mr Murray’s address as he wanted to get his book on Boswell published in America.

In a postscript he says he is enclosing an American advertisement, he describes his room and where he is sitting, and tells her to keep this letter.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 9 February 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’95 Arlington Avenue Westmount, P.Q.’ [Letterhead] [‘i.e.at the Basil Williams Montreal’ is written in Mallory’s hand]

Brief Summary
Reports on recent lecture in New York, complains of his lectures being reported as Anti-Prohibition propaganda, and describes social visits with friends in New York and Canada.

Detailed Summary
He was delighted to be in Montreal with friends including Mrs Williams, who had visited the Holt with Evelyn Clutton-Brock whilst he was away on the 1921 expedition. His fortunes had changed from hateful N.Y. His first lecture in New York had not been encouraging with technical difficulties caused by a 2nd rate operator and the hall full theatre had been depressing. However, all the members of the American Alpine Club who had attended the dinner were in the audience and they went away saying nice things. Afterwards they had gone to a hotel to eat ices which was a pleasant little party consisting of the Wethams, Mrs Colden Sanderson, Frisken, Poel and an actress friend of his.

It was important for his lectures to have good press but when he read the papers at breakfast there was almost nothing. A New York Times had 1/3rd of a column but it was turned into Anti-Prohibition propaganda. The Tribune gave a very good and sympathetic report.

He had lectured at a Country Club outside the city which was a dull affair before catching a train to Montreal. Had a good walk up the mountain with a wonderful view of the southern branch of St Lawrence and Montreal. The countryside was all snow and ice and it had been -10 when he had arrived. The Canadians didn’t like the cold as too many days in t took it out of one.

His next lecture was in Detroit (Michigan) but Toronto fell through. Keedick’s business was very badly run. He planned to spend the weekend with a friend, Monsieur Williams, whom he had known and liked at Charterhouse at a winter sports place. He planned to learn to ski from John Williams who was aged aged 16 and thought him a promising pupil on skis. He said the difficulty was to learn to stop, and until one had you just had to fall down.

He was much more cheerful and put it down to staying there with delightful people instead of by himself in a hotel. He missed her and found it much harder being without her there than in India.

His lecture there had gone very well and the audience were very good natured and amused.