Guy Bullock was a member of the 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition.
As expedition mountaineers, Guy Bullock and George Mallory found a northern access route to Everest by climbing the 6,849-metre (22,470 ft) Lhakpa La col above the East Rongbuk Glacier and by going on to reach the North Col at 7,020 metres (23,030 ft). They did not, however, reach the summit of Mount Everest.
Shortly before the 1921 Everest expedition was due to embark, one of the climbing team was asked to drop out (Finch) and Mallory suggested Bullock as a replacement. The Foreign Office rejected Younghusband's request to grant leave to Bullock, who was in Lima at the time, to join the expedition but he gained a special dispensation from the British Foreign Secretary, Lord Curzon, so he could have leave on half pay until the end of 1921 but with no chance of this being renewed. Bullock and his wife sailed for Bombay on the SS Naldera, arriving on 30 April 1921. The expedition had a climbing team of four but, of the two most experienced members, one died doing the march-in (Kellas) and the other was taken ill (Raeburn). This left only two main climbers, Mallory and Bullock. Bullock was a well-organised person, able to get on well with almost everybody. He was steady and cheerful, and so was a very good companion for Mallory (the better climber). Bullock was reunited with his wife at Lachen in the Teesta valley in Sikkim on 8 October and they eventually sailed home from Bombay.
Bullock's diary of the expedition was published in 1962 in the Alpine Journal. Bullock had previously declined to lend the diary to Mallory who had been wanting to make use of it for his lectures after the expedition.
He died in a London hospital in 1956.
French engraver, printmaker, lithographer and printer.
John Bull was a fictitious embodiment of Englishness and British imperialism.
Born in c. 1762, the son of Christopher, of Holland, Lancs. (apothecary, of Liverpool and Upholland)
School - Halifax
Admitted pensioner at Magdalene on 1May 1779
Matriculated at Lent, 1780
B.A. (2nd Wrangler) 1783
M.A. 1786
Fellow
28 September 1802 he was replaced as Bursar and Steward by Rev Thomas Paley was appointed Bursar and Rev Samuel Lowe was appointed Steward [MCGB/4/2/1]
Ordained Deacon at Ely on 10 May 1789
Ordained Priest on 20 December 1789
Rector of Fletton, Hunts., 1798-1828
P.C. of St Catherine Cree, London, 1803-14
Vicar of Yaxley, Hunts., 1806-28 (resigned). Succeeded his brother-in-law, John Hull, at Agecroft Hall, near Manchester, in 1813.
Married Margaret, daughter of Richard Hull, of Agecroft Hall.
Died Aug. 28, 1845, aged 84, at Blackpool.
Father of John (1834) and of Robert (1829).
Geoffrey Bruce was a member of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions.
He was an officer in the British Indian Army, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new mountaineering world record height of 8,300 metres (27,300 ft), only 520 metres (1,700 ft) below the summit of Mount Everest.
Brigadier General Charles G. Bruce was the leader of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions.
Charles Bruce was born in London on 7 April 1866, the youngest son of Henry Austin Bruce, first Baron Aberdare (1815–1895), politician, and his second wife, Nora Creina Blanche, youngest daughter of Lieutenant-General Sir William Napier. He had three brothers and eight sisters. They lived at Dyffryn, an estate in Glamorgan, and at Queen's Gate, London.
He was educated at Harrow School (1879–80) and Repton School (1881–4), and spent two years in the militia in York, where he was a noted wrestler and runner. He was commissioned in the Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire light infantry in 1887; and he served briefly with an Indian regiment in Madras and Burma before moving in 1889 to the 5th Gurkha Rifles, the regiment with which he served for most of his career. During the Tirah campaign Bruce cut the Gurkhas' tight-fitting breeches off above the knee, an improvisation that was once said to have introduced shorts into the Indian and British armies. In 1891 Bruce studied the equipment of Italian mountain troops in Turin, and he ran a training course for frontier scouts from 1891 to 1913. He taught staff college instructors in his training methods on the slopes of Snowdonia in 1910.
Bruce travelled widely in the Himalayas and organised porters for several important mountaineering expeditions. In 1907 and 1910 Bruce developed serious proposals for the ascent of Mount Everest that were abandoned for political reasons.
On 12 September 1894 he married Finetta Madeline Julia, daughter of Colonel Sir Edward Fitzgerald Campbell, second baronet; and their only child, a son, died in infancy in the Himalayas.
After being adjutant and second-in-command of the 5th Gurkha Rifles he was promoted to Lieutenant-Colonel in May 1913, and in May 1914 he was appointed to command the 6th Gurkha Rifles. He went with them to Egypt for the defence of the Suez Canal at the outbreak of war in 1914. In Gallipoli he commanded the depleted battalions of the 29th Indian Brigade, including the 5th and 6th Gurkhas at Gurkha bluff, for which he was mentioned in dispatches three times and was promoted to Brevet Colonel in November 1915. Severely wounded in the leg, he was evacuated before the withdrawal, and on discharge from hospital was appointed general officer commanding the independent frontier brigade at Bannu, a position he held from 1916 to 1919. He commanded the North Waziristan field force in 1917, and served in the Third Anglo-Afghan War (May 1919). In these operations he was mentioned twice in dispatches. His health deteriorated in the heat, and he was invalided out of the service with the honorary rank of Brigadier-General in 1920.
When Tibet unexpectedly granted permission for a Mount Everest expedition, Bruce could not obtain leave to join the first reconnaissance in 1921, but he was appointed leader of the next expedition in 1922. He was too old to take part in the climbing, but his knowledge of Himalayan languages and military organisation, his cheerfulness and joviality, and the Gurkhas he brought to organise the porters all contributed to the expedition's success. Captain John Geoffrey Bruce (his cousin) and George Finch reached a record elevation of 27,300 ft using oxygen.
In 1924 Bruce was again appointed Everest leader, but contracted malaria on a tiger hunt immediately before the expedition. On the march to Everest he became seriously ill and turned the leadership over to Colonel E. F. Norton. Bruce became the model for later Everest leaders.
After his wife's death in 1932 he wrote his autobiography, Himalayan Wanderer (1934), and moved to 27 St Mary Abbot's Terrace, London, where he died on 12 July 1939.
Fellow-Commoner, 1993-2014
Cambridge University Press, 1976-2013
Managing Director, Academic & Professional Publishing, 2012-2013
Son of Charles Johnson Brooke, 2nd Rajah of Sarawak, and Margaret de Windt. He was educated at Winchester and Magdalene College (matriculated in 1894). He failed to take a degree as his main interest was horse-racing.
He succeeded his father in 1917. His rule ended in 1946 with cession to the Crown.
Arms in Hall glass, W3.
Rupert Brooke studied Classics at King's College, Cambridge between 1906 and 1909 where he met and became friends with Hugh Dalton. He became involved in various Cambridge groups, and was widely acknowledged as a handsome and charismatic figure about the university. He was a member of the Fabian Society and the Marlowe Dramatic Society both of which George Mallory was also a member.
Daughter of Clayton de Windt, cousin and wife of the 2nd Rajah of Sarawak whom she married in 1869. Mother of Charles Vyner Brooke.
Once estranged from husband after producing the necessary heirs, she returned to London, where she was at the centre of a social circle that included several of the leading literary talents of the 1890s, such as Oscar Wilde and Henry James.
Her younger brother Harry matriculated from Maagdalene in 1875, and was afterwards ADC to the Rajah.
As ‘Ghita’ (her childhood name), the Ranee composed the Sarawak National Anthem (1872).
Friend of George Mallory, born in Ireland, wife of Brigadier Walter Headfort Brooke.
Born in Cheshire the son of John Wesley Lloyd (dental surgeon and Methodist lay preacher) and Mary Rachel Warhurst. He had three sisters.
School - Leas School and as a boy was particularly interested in military history to which he later attributed his successful military career.
In 1918 (age 13) he won a scholarship to Fettes College.
October 1923 - admitted as a scholar to Magdalene College. There he was a friend of the future Archbishop of Canterbury Michael Ramsey. He played rugby and was disappointed not to get a Blue.
He was an active Liberal and in March 1925 he entertained H.H. Asquith at Magdalene after a Liberal Party meeting at the Cambridge Guildhall. He became President of the Cambridge University Liberal Club and was an active debater in the Cambridge Union Society.
He lost his scholarship in June 1925, after obtaining a Second in Classics. He then switched to study History, in which he also obtained a Second. He finally graduated with a third-class in Part II of the Law Tripos in June 1928.
He practised as a barrister and served on Hoylake Urban District Council, by which time he had become a Conservative Party sympathiser. During the Second World War he rose to be Deputy Chief of Staff of Second Army, playing an important role in planning sea transport to the Normandy beachhead and reaching the acting rank of brigadier.
1945-1976 - he was the Member of Parliament for Wirral.
1954-64 - held various ministerial positions under Prime Ministers Winston Churchill, Anthony Eden, Harold Macmillan and Alec Douglas-Home, including Foreign Secretary (1955-60) and Chancellor of the Exchequor (1960-62).
1971-76 - Speaker of the House of Commons
1976 - he retired
He was made an Honorary Fellow of Magdalene College
Mary Henrietta Mallory was born in 1885 and was the older sister of George Mallory [there were four siblings - Annie Victoria (known as Avie), Mary, George and Trafford]. Mary married Francis Ralph Russell Brooke on 22 July 1914 who served with the Royal Garrison Artillery in the Great War. They had two children, David and Barbara.
School - Charterhouse
Admitted to Magdalene in October 1928
November 1933 - Joined the India Civil Service and became a Judge in the Punjab until partition in 1947.
Moved to Canada where he owned a fruit farm in British Columbia before becoming a schoolmaster.
Moved to become a schoolmaster at Kings School, Wimbledon.
Joined the War Office (later the Ministry of Defence). Posted to East Africa (Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, and Zanzibar), and later Gibraltar.
Made an Honorary Fellow in 1965 in succession to T. S. Eliot. This was felt appropriate, not only because of his reputation as a composer, but also because he was a MusD without College affiliation, long associated with the Cambridge University Musical Society. Britten was already in declining health by the time of his election, and the College saw little of him.
Life peer, 1976: Baron Britten of Aldeburgh.
Obituary by J. E. Stevens in the College Magazine vol. 21 (1976-77) pp 7-8
Son of the physician who first diagnosed Bright’s disease.
He matriculated from Magdalene College in 1835. Hebraist. The proctors resigned after his defence of an offending undergraduate, and their resignation was accepted by the Senate after a long discussion.
c. 1843 elected Fellow
1851 - 1872 Tutor
1853 - 1873 President of Magdalene College.
From middle-life, his mobility was impaired and he was confined to a sofa. He spent much of his time making a new transcription of the Pepys Diary of which he was the second editor. He was paralysed from 1880, having retired to London in 1873.
His benefaction to the College made possible the erection of Bright’s Building (1909).
Arms in Hall glass, W1.
An English painter of portraits and historical scenes. Briggs was born at Walworth, County Durham, the son of a post office official. His cousin was Amelia Opie (née Alderson), the wife of artist John Opie (whose portrait was later painted by Briggs). While still at school at Epping he sent two engravings to the Gentleman's Magazine and in 1811 entered as a student at the Royal Academy, London, where he began to exhibit in 1814. From that time onwards until his death he was a constant exhibitor at the annual exhibitions of the Academy, as well as the British Institution, his paintings being for the most part historical in subject. After his election as a Royal Academician (RA) in 1832 he devoted his attention almost exclusively to portraiture. Briggs died, of tuberculosis in London on 18 January 1844, aged 50/51.
Matriculated in 1619 from Magdalene College probably aged about 13. His father was John Bridgman (also Magdalene) who was chaplain to James I and became Bishop of Chester in 1619.
BA in 1623 and elected Fellow in 1624. His father wouldn't let him accept the Fellowship on the grounds that they should be reserved for men of more modest means.
MP for Wigan, 1640; University Counsel, 1642; Kt, 1643, Baronet, 1660.
A lawyer who specialised in conveyancing (a critical concern in the aftermath of the Civil War) and was a prominent Royalist. He presided in the trial of the regicides. Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, 1660; Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, 1667-1672 (in effect Lord Chancellor). In Pepys’s view ‘a mighty able man’ (Diary vol 8, p 421), and probably the College’s most eminent lawyer. Patron of the poet Traherne.
Bridgeman's reports, spanning his time as chief justice of the common pleas, are in the British Library (BL, Hargrave MSS 55–58).
Personal papers - there are notebooks and letters relating to Bridgeman family and public affairs in the Staffordshire Record Office, and some miscellaneous correspondence at Longleat.
Arms in Hall glass, W3.
In the College Magazine
Article: 'Sir Orlando Bridgman: the College's seventeenth century legal star'. by N. G. Jones, College Magazine vol. 40 (1995-96) pp 31-36