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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Corrie, Isle of Arran, on Friday

Describes climbing with David Pye and that Will Arnold-Forster had caught three mackerel from a boat.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Suggests the possibility of Ruth living in a small village nearby so he could live with her. Had walked to the top of a hill and described seeing a natural amphitheatre which consoled him for the shock of finding himself in a military camp. Dinner on the first night was very solemn and he addressed one remark to each of his neighbours and men opposite but no one opened conversation with him and there was no general talk. Describes the previous night’s dinner which began badly but improved and his neighbour was ‘quite human and interested’ and it was a pleasant little party.

His bed wasn’t a brilliant success as the straw was so hard. The camp was well arranged and hospitable and he had a good hot bath before dinner last night.

He was planning on walking to Itchen Abbas for lunch at the Plough Inn, then walk up the river and back over the hills.

[letter continues later in pencil] – the Plough Inn didn’t have any food so he had gone to the Black Swan and had white bread and yellow butter (not the military variety) and there was raspberry jam and white sugar lumps.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had been given a useful job to do – inspecting old kit to see if it could still be used. Had spoken to a bootmaker to see if any of the boots could be repaired. There were many socks which had been cut because the men were supposed to darn small holes in their own socks.

He had been into Winchester yesterday evening but the choir were on holiday so there would be no music at evensong and he had left to do a few small jobs in the town. He had also been to bathe.

Describes a visit to Du Ponbet, a French Swiss master who was a good scholar but was critical of him. Du Ponbet wasn’t interested in him beyond asking which rank he was to be place in.

Weather was stuffy and they might have a thunderstorm. Was depressed by the Riga news which would buck up the Germans. It was possible the Germans would succeed in forcing Russia into a separate peace. With all their disorganisation Russians were good almost for nothing.

Hopes her baby would arrive soon.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had rather a distressing evening as the worst of the piano friends had drummed out his nauseating tunes for about two hours. Another of them was at it now but wouldn’t go on for as long.

It was wet and he had spent most of the time in his cubicle reading a novel, Sonia by Stephen McKenna. He was a Wykehamist and the book begins about life at Winchester but it was heavily disguised and might be any big school. It was quite interesting.

He had got some notes so he could prepare for his course next week but they didn’t seem to deal with very obscure questions or be particularly difficult to understand or be particularly illuminating.

He would have to go out for some fresh air. How long since they had a good walk together?

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Winchester

The mess was now no more than a billiard room. He had just been beaten in a game in a tournament. He was annoyed as he wanted to play a particular opponent in the next round and he could have beaten this man 9 times out of 10 but you can’t win against bad leaves and a series of flukes.

He had enjoyed the previous evening. He had found Rendall in and gone for a long walk with him and discussed schemes for a war memorial. He agreed that if they could get the money it should be done in the grand style. Had enjoyed dining with the Courtneys who were kind people.

He was to go on a senior officers course next Monday which would last a month and probably be boring but would give him something definite to do.

Today he was wearing his spurs but had displeased one whom he called ‘our drinking captain’ by adopting an attitude not precisely correct when standing to attention on parade.

He had enjoyed a walk in the woods, eaten blackberries and nuts, and sat on a threshing machine and worked on his poem.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester. No date except 'Tuesday'

Their written exam would be on Wednesday afternoon and there was a good deal to look up before then and he had only just managed to get hold of a handbook of the gun. This morning they had passed through the gas chamber. They had to go in and change their masks. He didn’t realise the chamber would be full of gas when they entered as it was usual to let the gas off once they were inside. He mistook the practice change for the real test. He had some difficulty with his helmet. The tube which was supposed to go in his mouth seemed to be going into his eye so he took it off to get it right and had a whiff of gas. The gas must have been very light as he felt no ill effects except a slight headache.

Was going to dine with the Irving’s that evening. They would be outdoors doing map work during the afternoon.

The exams would finish on Thursday so he might come home straight after. The motor bike had blown off its exhaust so he was getting one of the fitters in the camp to mend it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester. No date except 'Wednesday'

Had just finished the exam. The examiner had been just plain nasty but he should get 75%. On his last weekly paper he had got full marks.

He had his medical board this morning. They said he would be unfit for a month and gave his two weeks light duties and two weeks Home Service.

He had a letter from Mrs Benson to say A. C. Benson had had a nervous breakdown but was getting on quite well. This was better than he had expected.

Had put in for leave for Friday to Tuesday but didn’t know if he would get that.

Had to get off and prepare or the practical exam tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Is keen to know what she and everyone at home thinks about the German Note and wants to see the English newspapers and describes how it is being reported in the Continental press. He thinks the journalists misunderstand the German and particularly the Prussian psychology which he sets out.

He wants to know what her father thinks of it all and asks her to tell him what he [George] thinks.

Was finding G. Young's Balkans amazingly good and was studying Othello.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The mess was very quiet. He had been very sleepy all day after an exciting night. Although he was never away from the old battle area the spirit of autumn was everywhere and there was nothing like the healing power of nature especially trees.

He thought much about Charterhouse and imagined teaching and dealing with boys there again and the prospect was pleasing in many ways.

That afternoon he had been to A. [Arras] and had explored the outlying parts. Some of the buildings had been damaged but very few in the south west of the town had been seriously damaged. He had talked to more than one lot of refugees. He had returned with a good supply of vegetables - cabbages, brussel sprouts, onions and celery, in his rucksack.

The post was unreliable because they didn’t have their own censorship stamps as they should and the letters had to pass through so many different and changing hands that he feared she would never receive some of his letters.

He hadn’t yet thought deeply about the latest German Note although it didn’t strike him as satisfactory. It was evident democratic opinion didn’t yet control Germany and they had to wait for that but he felt that miracle would happen.

He wanted very much to see Clutton-Brock’s book and asks her to order him a copy and send it out to him. He had almost finished George Young’s book about the Balkans which was very interesting. He had recently read George Eliot’s Silas Marner which was a very pretty story which she would like.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Responds to her letter by setting out his views on the failures of the Passchendaele offensive and on religion. He was delighted she was taking trouble about her religious life and didn’t mind if they differed. Didn’t think he would have much use for outward forms of Christian ritual but had no objection to her or anyone else valuing them. He worshipped in his own way in places other than in a Church setting.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

His stay had come to a sudden end as Trafford had been called away to take command in the absence of the Colonel.

Had a good solitary walk and played football on the previous day and his ankle held up. In the evening they went to Amiens to dine. Had an amusing evening and got the Mayor of Amiens to sing two songs. The waitresses as well as themselves sang and they toasted until after 10pm and he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

The unstrafed country was pleasant and he wished the battery would move back to the place they first stayed in after landing in Calais. The constraint of unmitigated shellholes and barbed wire was deadening to ones faculties.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was glad she was recovering [from pneumonia]. Wishes he could be home with her. The King was going to Paris on 29th which was the same day he would go if he got leave.

He had a heavy cold yesterday so hadn’t written to her as he was too tired after dinner. Looked forward to living with her and being happy in their home. She must be patient with him and they would learn to live with one another and be happy.

They had not yet moved but he expected they would that day. They had to give up most of their trucks which would be very annoying.

He was delighted her father had begun to walk again. Hopes he will be strong again.

He was reading Tess of the d’Urbevilles which had wonderful descriptions of dairy farms in the Frome Valley and she would love it although it was another tragedy.

It was still very cold but bright and he had walked into Arras to buy stuff for the mess. The car was out of action as the rear axle was broken. When it broke the wheel came off and careered down the road nearly upsetting a despatch rider.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford on his was back from Paris. He had completed his purchases of books and was on the way to the library when he went back to look at a picture in a shop he had seen the day before. The artist arrived while he was still in the shop. He was a young man injured in the leg during the war and he arranged to go and visit his studio. Describes the painting and whether they should buy it. Asked the artist to paint Clare if were to come to England.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford and had been taken up in a Bristol by one of the pilots. Describes the stuns they did in the plane. Refused to let the pilot loop the loop because he wasn’t strapped in and the pilot had a reckless face.

Pemberton had been fetched from near Calais and was going to stay for some days.

Still no news about his return. It had been four weeks since his application had gone in and he was getting anxious.

Had received a letter from Brother Giles who had suffered an enteric fever [typhoid fever] and maleria and was now at the base with views of Kenia [Kenya] and Kilimanjaro. She could pass this on to Allen and Hoenni if she saw them. The Hoennis would be very glad to see her.

He was glad to be with his brother officers again and the sweet air was very pleasant after Paris. He had received a note from David after his visit to Westbrook who said she was ravishingly beautiful.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory written from France

She was keeping up their correspondence better than him in the circumstances. He was still hoping every day for news of his release. Was trying to write his lecture [on civics] but it was too vast a subject. Was glad the Head Master had been to see her. He had heard from Allen who had no hopes for a speedy release and who said the Head Master showed no interest in the subject.

What plans did she have for moving into the Holt? Thinks he will need some bookcases. Had his case arrived from Paris?

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from ‘Kampa Dzong’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Description
Dr Kellas had been buried. Raeburn was declared unfit and had returned to Sikkim and so there was no-one left with experience of climbing in the Himalayas. Describes Bullock, Wheeler and Herron and outlines their plans. Talks about the food they eat. Describes his first view of Everest from 100 miles away.

Detailed Summary
Dr Kellas had been buried in sight of the three great peaks he had climbed Pahonri [Pauhunri], Kinchenjan [Kinchenjhau] and Chomiomo [Chomo Yummo]. Raeburn had been pronounced unfit to proceed and Wollaston had taken him to a place in Sikkim to recover. Wollaston had then returned to reach Tinki Dzong. This was a disaster as they were are now left without anyone who had experience in the Himalayas. Morshead had limited experience and Mallory had criticisms of Raeburn. They planned to see the N.E. side of Everest and hoped to see the N.W. side to solve a big problem of topography. He was still hopeful of attacking Everest that year with Bullock and Morshead, but that goal seemed a very long way off. Evaluates Bullock, Wheeler, and Herron. Kampa Dzong had been pleasant change. They had supplemented their food with sheep, gazelle, gammon, goose, fish, and half-cooked vegetables. Hoped to find eggs at their high elevation of about 15,000 ft.

He was feeling extraordinarily fit and was much moved by the prospect of a nearer approach to Everest. He describes his first view of the mountain from 100 miles away, ‘It is colossal even at this distance - a great blunty pointed snow peak…with a much steeper north face than people have made out’. He thinks that the N.W. side of the mountain, facing the Arun river, up which the monsoon cloud came had the bigger snowfall. He describes the landscape of the Arun valley and that he was sorry they wouldn’t see the east side of the mountain.

[Letter continues later] - It had been a jolly day. He now had a better mule after giving his up to Raeburn. He and Bullock were surveying the country.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Trenkye [Tinki] Dzong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Responds to contents in her letters from 6-10 May mentioning the Hodges, Clare, Bridget’s son, Mary Ann and Stephen. He was feeling happier. He had been nailing the porter's boots. He had planned a two day expedition with Bullock to climb up to about 20,000 ft and see the N. E. face of Everest and had avoided telling Howard-Bury. Morshead had now joined the group. Describes a hill walk and a fragrant flower which he enclosed in the letter hoping it still had some of its scent.

He planned to take photos of the mountain range as they were now in a country which no European had previously visited. The rest of the party were quite cheerful. The food provisions were not proving expensive. Tells her not to be hopeless about the expedition as they may yet do very well. He would think of her on her birthday tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Chevremont Darjeeling.

Brief Summary
Journey across India from Bombay to Calcutta and the Darjeeling. Norton in hospital. Plans to travel onward. Finch and Crawford to stay behind and wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Looking forward to seeing flowers in Sikkim.

Detailed Summary
Journey across India passed well enough. Describes the heat, dust, dry plains, and that about half the trees were green, either a sombre green or the brightest imaginable sort. There was much that was worth seeing but they were glad to get to Calcutta.

Their baggage weighed 2 ¼ tons plus a lot of personnel in the train and they paid over 600 rupees to Calcutta and 150 more for handling at Bombay. They were met in Calcutta by the A + N Stores agent who did everything for them. The stores and railway fares cost about £200 from Bombay to Darjeeling.

Norton was in hospital in Calcutta with bad piles after riding but it was not necessary to operate. Norton planned to go with them to join Strutt but he hoped that Norton would be persuaded to join them later.

They next travelled in a rail motor which was a much cleaner ride than the train. They got to near Darjeeling quicker than expected and met Bruce coming up the road in a car who made great cheer at seeing them. The country looked very different now to how he had left it being much browner due to the weather being particularly dry which he thought was a good thing for them.

Immense quantities of stores were on their way to or already at Phari. It was possible to save a march to Kalimpong, which was the second stage on the journey the year before, as they were going by a special train, a journey of 5 to 6 hrs to Kalimpong which they could do quite easily in a day.

After Kalimpong they planned to split into two parties. He would be in the first party going to Phari. Then an advance party of about 8 of them (himself, G. Bruce, Strutt, Longstaff, Wakefield, and Noel) would go onwards taking a limited amount of stores with them while the rest would follow gradually behind. Finch was staying with Crawford to bring the oxygen when it arrived [the cylinders hadn't yet reached Calcutta].

He was looking forward to seeing the earlier flowers in Sikkim [he was here about a month earlier in the year then he was in 1921] and details magnolias in full bloom. He compares the expedition leaders Howard-Bury (1921) and the current leader General Bruce and says he read the proofs of Howard-Bury’s chapters coming up from Calcutta which were worse than he had expected. Morshead would also be joining the expedition which he was very glad about [Mallory and Morshead were the only two returning from the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition].

Realises Ruth may be in Wales and sends his best wishes to the party.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kalimpong’.

Brief Summary
Split into 2 groups. Plan to beat height record without using oxygen. Training by Finch on use of oxygen. 40 men selected which wasn't enough. Travelled by train up the Teesta Valley. Finch and Crawford left behind to wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Description of flowers.

Detailed Summary
They had split into two parties with himself in the first group and travelled to Phari following the previous year’s march. General Bruce had wanted to travel all together with 300 animals. Describes Bruce and the management of the advance party moving stores, fixing camps, and he expected to share his opinion about the condition of the snow when the time came. During the expedition they planned that a party of three would try to beat the height record without using oxygen. They had been provisionally selected - Morshead, Norton, and young Bruce.

Finch was insisting on oxygen training and had declared that a man should have a fortnight’s training with the apparatus and that unless he had it he wouldn’t be responsible for anyone’s safety when using it. Thinks two days would be ample training. If this rule held good the three he named were excluded from the possibility of getting to the top with oxygen, because there wouldn’t be a fortnight to spare for training them. He didn’t expect the plan would work out exactly according to intention as he thought General Bruce wouldn’t be rigid on the matter.

There were only 40 porters in the party which was quite inadequate. They were good men selected from 150 Nepalese and among them were 14 who had climbed with him the previous year. He reckoned they would have to make about four journeys to the North Col and two journeys up from there to 25,000 ft which he thought was asking too much. Bruce had been short on time and couldn’t gather more men worth taking or equip them. He planned to save them as much as possible on the journey and possibly gather a few Tibetans.

He was enjoying the venture hugely as it wa the jolliest of parties and everything was well arranged. General Bruce, Wakefield, Strutt, Noel and himself were going down to Siliguri while, ‘young Bruce’ had gone ahead to look after the luggage. He had returned after dinning in the station to find their beds already set up and arranged with mosquito nets which he thought was the proper way to travel, although the net wasn’t very effective and he was bitten and had to use iodine and prophylactic quinine. He hoped to escape fever.

They had travelled up the Teesta Valley to railhead with General Bruce putting his head out of the window most of the time, brimming over with joy and waving his handkerchief at passers-by, and Noel had used his cinema apparatus [film camera]. He describes the heat, and of arranging stores before going up to Teesta Bridge. From there the General walked up about 4,000 ft.

They came round by train to save 300 rupees but the rest preferred to start early that morning motoring out from Darjeeling about 8 miles and then walking. His companions from there would be Bruce, Norton, Longstaff, and Noel. Finch remained behind at Darjeeling with Crawford to bring the oxygen. They would probably be about 10 days behind them which he felt was rather hard luck for them. That night he was sharing a room with Longstaff and he thought they would get on together very nicely.

He would describe his time in Darjeeling, but it would be largely of idleness. He had been walking with Wakefield, Norton, and Somervell but the mountains were not at their best. Describes specific flowers and their glorious colours, but thinks they were not as loveable as English blossoms. Everything seemed to be in waiting for the first rain showers. He did not expect to see as many flowers in Sikkim until they came to the rhododendron zone.

He had ordered Curtis to give her a book which should be useful in identifying wild flowers and thought perhaps she could collect some flowers with Clare.

Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Camp III’.

Brief Summary
Description of his and Somervell's recconnaisance to find a route from the North Col to Everest.

Detailed Summary
It was 7.30 am on a bright and almost windless morning and he was sitting on a box outside of the tent awaiting breakfast - tea had just come. Still freezing in the shade but the sun was trying to be warm. Explains why he was up so early and that they had eaten their evening meal early for the sake of their cook, and had been lying in the tent ever since. He and Somervell had slept well.

He had The Spirit of Man, a volume of Shakespeare and a pack of cards so there was no real difficulty about passing the time agreeably. He had found Will’s pamphlet from last mail in his pocket. Gives his thoughts on it.

On 10th they left Base Camp and slept at Camp I and on the two succeeding days came on to Camp III quite easily. Most of the porters were to go straight back to No. 1 Camp, rest for a day, and then bring up more loads again. They were expected that day. Two porters and a cook had remained with them. First objective was to establish a route to the North Col. Did this on 13th which was an interesting day. Problem was to get up without cutting lots of steps in hard ice. All the lower part of last year’s route was ice. Hard work to make a staircase and that route would have been unsatisfactory for porters as most were untrained. Instead they chose a route to the left, straight up to the point where they had to cross a very steep snow slope. Was very hard work with a lot of chipping and kicking of steps. One porter came with them (the other was sick). Took ice pegs and rope and the porter carried a Mummery tent, which was the first tent to reach the North Col. Almost midday when they reached the snow shelves below the edge. Wind was blowing up the snow and the great broken cubes of ice above them were wonderfully impressive. He and Somervell proceeded along the shelf intending to reach the lowest point of the col and look over the other side, just as he, Bullock, and Wheeler had last September.

They were roped together and afraid of the wind. Their way was blocked by a crevasse just too wide to jump. The main edge joining Everest to the North Peak was on the other side of this gap not more than 10 ft wide. There seemed to be a way to the left but a few moments later they were up against an obstacle not to be climbed without a ladder and there was no alternative. Faced the prospect of a longer job than anticipated they. They ate four sweet biscuits and some mint cake. Saw a gap where a steep ice slope came down from the North Peak. Continued along the shelf in that direction, turned the flank of an ice gendarme and were able to work up steep snow to the ridge and look out over the westward view. Everest was still to be traversed. The true North Col up on which the N. Arete of Everest springs up was at the south end of that ridge. The slopes on the west side were fearfully precipitous and they had to expect broken ground. They had to leap two crevasses in the first 50 yards. Then found it easy going and reached a minor snow summit. The view to the west was opening out and they sat down to look at it and for a time they completely forgot their quest. Started again and saw a clear way ahead, so they can get to Everest by way of the North Col. The distance of Chang La [North Col] from this camp was not as great as it appeared on the map or on a photo taken from Lhakpa La [high mountain pass] last year. The only trouble was the labour of getting up to the pass but this would be easier now the steps were prepared. They were back in camp about 5.30 pm, each with a bad height headache and too tired to eat a meal.

The porters arrived that day with Crawford, hopefully with enough rations to allow a party of them (8 to 12) to stay there. If so they planned to take a first lot of loads up to Chang La [North Col] tomorrow 16th. Rest on 17th, to Chang La [North Col] with 8 porters, and sleep there 19th, to the highest point we can get loads, say 25,000, with 3 or 4 loads on the 19th, porters returning here, others sleeping again at Chang La [North Col], and then on 20th or 21st up to their highest camp and on next day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Base Camp

Brief Summary
First summit attempt without oxygen and waiting to hear about Finch and Young Bruce’s summit attempt with oxygen.

Detailed Summary
Had received mail from her and read news of Pen y Pass. Four of his fingers on the right hand had been touched by frost bite but only the top joint of the third finger gave him any trouble and he didn’t think there was any danger of losing any part of it. Poor Morshead was a very different case and they didn’t yet know what the damage would be. Thought it was stupid or careless of them to be caught out as it was easy enough to keep hands warm with gloves if you weren’t doing too much with them. He took the lead over from Morshead and cut the steps as quickly as possible for fear the porters would be done in by the cold and refuse to continue. Morshead was insufficiently clothed and didn’t know his fingers were caught until the following night. He had wrecked himself cutting the steps and when they were pitching tents hardly had the strength to lift a stone. The night at 25,000 ft was miserable and he didn’t expect to go on.

Somervell was the reserve man all through and was particularly useful in cooking at the high camp. Norton went first on the final day and was very nearly done at the end and was climbing very slowly. They could have gone further but turned back to allow time for the descent. On a fine morning they would have started 2 hrs earlier and reached the N. E. shoulder.

He lead on the descent except where they had to cut steps. He and Norton shared the cutting as he judged he would be quicker than the others. He felt pretty strong on the descent. The slip was nearly a bad business. He hadn’t realised how shaky Morshead was and had cut rather poor steps. Norton and Somervell must have been caught napping. He didn’t have the rope belayed round his waist as he was on the point of cutting a step. Hearing something wrong behind drove in his pick and belayed and was ready in plenty of time when the strain came. Morshead must have made a very fine effort coming down the steps of the snow slope as he appeared to tread quite safely; but the moment they were on easier ground he collapsed. He didn’t like the idea of being out after dark above 23,000 ft. It was a very trying and anxious time.

Next morning there was a lot of hard work cutting steps down from Chang La [North Col] and they weren’t down to Camp 3 until after noon. They walked down to Base the next day and were a very tired party, and all except Somervell, had remained tired. The rest of the party were very pleased with their performance. Thought that the three of them were out of it now. Norton’s ear and his finger were frostbitten and Longstaff wouldn’t hear of them going up again until they were healed. It was annoying as he wanted to make one more try from a camp at 26,000 ft.

They were a perfectly happy party at Camp 3. Apart from the anxiety he had enjoyed it tremendously.

Thinks he won’t have answered all her questions. Says he is still feeling stupid and it was a great effort making a narrative for the press. Wonders what people at home think of them.

[Continues later] - Had just received 3 letters from her and also letters from all his family. Comments on her time in North Wales and hopes she is better for her holiday. Of Pen y Pass he says he knows nowhere that one comes away from feeling so strong. Had a very nice letter from David [Pye] about Pen y Pass. It was almost certain that they would be leaving Everest on her birthday and should be in Darjeeling about 7 July at latest, and hoped to be home by early August. Thought he might take a week to travel through India and then take another week coming round by sea to London. He hoped for one spell of walking with her before October, mentioning the good places they still had to visit together, Teesdale in late spring, a Yorkshire dale, golden in September, and Derbyshire, or the west country again.

[Continues later] - He had been dictating to Morris [General Bruce’s secretary] while he typed up a narrative of their climb. He had worked out she ought to get news of their climb very near the date of her birthday and this letter should reach her on 4 July, and on the same day he should arrive in Darjeeling.

Details future travel plans as he wants to see something more of the world. He may see the Bullocks on his way home as he had heard from him the other day full of questions about the expedition. They had both been ill and asks Ruth to write to Mrs Bullock as she would be glad to hear from her. He had written a note to his mother and had received one from his sister Avie and hoped she was really better.

He had been thinking of a plan for them to meet in the Alps on his way home but felt she wouldn’t come because of the expense, but if she did it would be easy for him to meet her there. He didn’t know whether Geoffrey Young had secured the Tyndall chalet but if so they could go there which would make a great difference. Tells her how to get there and what costs would be involved.

[Continues later] - they were waiting for news of Finch and G. Bruce’s attempt to summit using oxygen. Thinks they would certainly break their record as they have had very good weather but he didn’t expect them to have reached the top at the first attempt. It all depended on whether they succeed in dumping cylinders ahead of them. He didn’t feel jealous of any success they may have. Getting up with oxygen was so different from their attempt that the two hardly enter into competition. He chaffed because his finger kept him in camp and Longstaff had no idea how bad it was. It was extremely sensitive to cold and if he went up again he would get a real bad frostbite so he had to be patient.

Norton was responsible for collecting flowers with Longstaff’s help. As Longstaff had to go back in a hurry Norton had asked him [Mallory] for help and what they found the previous year. He could easily do this without much loss of time but would be a week later reaching Darjeeling. The idea of seeing seeing the early flowers between there and Kharta and near Kharta too attracted him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory

Brief Summary
Most of the party was ill or injured with frostbite. Feeling in the camp was more discontented. He, Finch and Somervell were contemplating a third summit attempt. Thought Finch would annoy him. Opinion on what went wrong with 2nd attempt. Weather was worsening. If they did make a 3rd attempt he would be delayed in coming home.

Detailed Summary

Wishes he could be enjoying the first blush of early summer with her. Has been re-reading her letters and says her time in Wales sounds full of enjoyment and so unlike this. The North Col was a wonderful place for a camp as it was sheltered from the west wind behind great battlements of ice.

He finds a difficulty in writing to her because she will have heard of events that have not yet happened before she receives his story. She will know the results of their final attempt, which they will begin tomorrow or the next day. Despite mixed feelings about another venture it would have been unbearable for him to be left out. Until yesterday morning he felt there was no chance of going up. Longstaff felt they were all ill since they came down and strongly believed the Expedition had done enough and had better shut up shop. Longstaff reported him medically unfit due to his finger and his heart. However, Wakefield had made a careful examination yesterday and pronounced his heart perfectly sound and he trusted his judgement. He did risk getting a worse frostbite by going up again but felt the game was worth a finger and he would take care.

Norton had not been fit since they came down [from 1st summit attempt] and there was no question of his going up again. For Wakefield and Crawford the limit was the North Col and Geoffrey Bruce’s feet would require a month to recover. Only Finch, Somervell, and himself were left. Finch appeared done when he came down in spite of the liberal use of oxygen, but was fit enough. He was afraid Finch would get on his nerves a lot before they were done, but hoped they would manage the climb without serious friction [anticipating 3rd attempt in 1922].

The weather was getting steadily worse which would settle the affair. It seemed much windier than last year. He feared getting caught on the ridge in a bad gale. Finch and Bruce had made a strong effort on the last day but in some ways managed very badly. Assessing the 2nd summit attempt he felt it was an initial mistake to go to a fresh camp at 25,500 ft instead of moving to the one they had established and they had put it on the wrong side of the ridge exposed to the wind. By some mismanagement there was a shortage of supplies both at the North Col and 25,500 ft. Porters were sent up from the North Col at 4 pm and they did well to get back there at 11 pm. The idea of porters wondering about up there in the dark with none of us to look after them filled him with horror. The story of the Gurkha orderly was pretty bad too. The plan was to take him on from 25,500 ft carrying 6 cylinders of oxygen for 1,000 ft of 1,500 ft by which time it was supposed he would be exhausted. He was to then sent down by himself drinking oxygen from one cylinder. Finch seemed to have a different standard of caring for the porters than him. He was determined they would run no risks with their lives during the next venture.

The new attempt would impact plan for his return journey. Strutt, Longstaff, and Morshead would be going back to Darjeeling as soon as animals arrive, in 4 or 5 days. Norton and General Bruce would be going over to Kharta at the same time (he was to have gone with them). The main body would follow to Kharta after they had finished with the mountain. He would aim at catching the Treista boat from Bombay on 1 August but she wasn’t to count on that.

[Continues later] - He had escaped from the camp to write the letter. In the past 3 or 4 days it had seemed to be a less serene, rather a discontented place. Morshead suffered from his fingers continually and he [Mallory] feared he would lose the first joint of six of them. He bore it well but was not a cheerful figure. Norton was even more depressed. Strutt was more than usually full of curses. Crawford and Wakefield who were last down from the mountain were not very pleased with the prospect of going up again so soon. Longstaff was far from well with indigestion and sleeplessness and was at present in one of his moods of bustling activity, when he became tiresome, interfering, and self-important. The General, who had been tied to camp almost the whole time by a sore foot, showed a better temper than anyone. Bruce and Strutt both hated the wind and they had had no more than one windless hour.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kharta'.

Brief Summary
Describes flowers seen by him and Norton. Comments on a copy of the Everest book which he had received.

Detailed Summary
Had received two letters from her. Correspondence had been more difficult this year.

Had found two new white primulas. Describes the scene of his discovery in detail which was so beautiful he nearly fell down and wept. Detailed description of the flower. Hoped the seedlings they were bringing back would survive. Had also found another flower which was a much more starry flower. The flowers had been wonderful over the last few days. He and Norton had explored a side valley going down to the Arun. They had the loveliest of walks, trees, shrubs, and all were at their best in broken sunlight and showers - perhaps the best of all that blue-purple iris blooming freely in patches the size of our garden.

Had received a copy of the Everest book but was bored with having to find a place for it in his baggage. Thought it was well got up and looked the money but was disappointed with the reproductions. Was amused to find that the Morning Post was his most favourable reviewer. Thought the other reviews she had sent were remarkably dull, but the Times seemed pretty favourable.

They were to start back the day after to-morrow. He didn't expect to be able to catch a boat before 5th August and would probably save money by sailing right on to London. Younghusband had written to him and had said about the book, ’ ‘Yours was a splendid contribution and I am glad I resisted efforts to have it broken up and subdivided . Wonders whose wanted to subdivide the book and wondered if it was Howard-Bury out of jealousy.

Had received a letter from Edith Stopford and mentions the political situaion in Ireland. Wonders if it’s possible for civil war to be avoided. Edith said everyone expected it be and no one seemed much concerned.

He was very glad she has been to London. Asks her to congratulate Ursula on her concert.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’95 Arlington Avenue Westmount, P.Q.’ [Letterhead] [‘i.e.at the Basil Williams Montreal’ is written in Mallory’s hand]

Brief Summary
Reports on recent lecture in New York, complains of his lectures being reported as Anti-Prohibition propaganda, and describes social visits with friends in New York and Canada.

Detailed Summary
He was delighted to be in Montreal with friends including Mrs Williams, who had visited the Holt with Evelyn Clutton-Brock whilst he was away on the 1921 expedition. His fortunes had changed from hateful N.Y. His first lecture in New York had not been encouraging with technical difficulties caused by a 2nd rate operator and the hall full theatre had been depressing. However, all the members of the American Alpine Club who had attended the dinner were in the audience and they went away saying nice things. Afterwards they had gone to a hotel to eat ices which was a pleasant little party consisting of the Wethams, Mrs Colden Sanderson, Frisken, Poel and an actress friend of his.

It was important for his lectures to have good press but when he read the papers at breakfast there was almost nothing. A New York Times had 1/3rd of a column but it was turned into Anti-Prohibition propaganda. The Tribune gave a very good and sympathetic report.

He had lectured at a Country Club outside the city which was a dull affair before catching a train to Montreal. Had a good walk up the mountain with a wonderful view of the southern branch of St Lawrence and Montreal. The countryside was all snow and ice and it had been -10 when he had arrived. The Canadians didn’t like the cold as too many days in t took it out of one.

His next lecture was in Detroit (Michigan) but Toronto fell through. Keedick’s business was very badly run. He planned to spend the weekend with a friend, Monsieur Williams, whom he had known and liked at Charterhouse at a winter sports place. He planned to learn to ski from John Williams who was aged aged 16 and thought him a promising pupil on skis. He said the difficulty was to learn to stop, and until one had you just had to fall down.

He was much more cheerful and put it down to staying there with delightful people instead of by himself in a hotel. He missed her and found it much harder being without her there than in India.

His lecture there had gone very well and the audience were very good natured and amused.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.