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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had got to bed at 3.30am and slept until 11.30am. Had been feeling feeble but was much better today. Disappointed to still have heard nothing [about his return home]. Had not been writing over the last few days wilst he had the flu or whatever it was. Had to give a lecture on ‘Civics’ so would have to think of something to say as the Colonel and some other officers would be there.

Was sorry the return to the Holt had been delayed and supposed it was because of Owen’s flu.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

It was only 10 days until term started and he still hadn’t got his release. When was she moving into the Holt? Was sure he would come in for the move. No move would be complete without him.

She mentioned Mr Brooke several times. Thought he had met him at Brooke Hall and expected him to be quite interesting. Did she see the Head Master’s speech at the Head Master’s conference in which he said they should aim for voluntary Chapel which seemed a very long step for him. Wonders if he had read Clutton-Brock’s book and if so what he thought of it. Thought he would offer to preach in Chapel as it was important to have religious teaching other than official Church teaching.

Thanks her for the parcel of chocolates which were very good. Was sorry about the bad news of Violet’s father’s leg. Was afraid this would not increase the chances of Violet staying with them.

Had prepared his lecture for that afternoon which was on the growth of freedom in England.

Was sorry Clare had been unwell and she was to give her his love and tell her Daddy said she must be gay and happy and not cross.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship. Opinion on use of oxygen. Opinion of colleagues. Watched porpoises.

Detailed Summary
They were all getting along happily enough. There was a good deal of scientific discussion around the subject of breathing oxygen. Wakefield was somewhat distrustful of the whole affair and sometimes irritated by Finch who was dogmatic in his statements. In this company he was amused by Finch. Was much intrigued by the shape of his head which seemed to go out at the sides where it ought to go up. He was a fanatical character and didn't laugh easily. He greatly enjoyed his oxygen class.

The oxygen drill was being abandoned and so they would hear less on the subject, which was extremely interesting and Finch had been very competent about it. Refers to a full page hand drawing by Somervell, entitled ‘Homeward Bound' [included on the next page of the letter] which showed an unfortunate man whose apparatus had broken and so he was forced to go down taking the oxygen straight from the bottle.

At his first meeting with Strutt, which took place at the Alpine Club, he thought him a dry, stiff solider but he was rather a chatterbox and quite entertaining though never profound. He describes Strutt’s diplomatic role with a mission to Denikin’s army [Russian Lt. Gen Anton Denikin] and an Austrian prince and was High Commissioner in Danzig or some big town in the Baltic. Over one affair Curzon tried to get him court marshalled as a traitor to his country so he concluded he must be a good man.

He had enjoyed good talk, especially with Noel who he particularly liked. The Everest film should be worth £15,000 for foreign rights alone, which gave him some hope that there would be generous terms to the lectures.

Further describes life on the ship, the warm weather and the sunset. The bugle sounded warning them to dress for dinner. He had to go and bathe as he had been playing deck cricket. He slept with a fan in his cabin and thought how romantic a voyage could be if one was lazy enough. If she were there he would take quite a lot of interest in the phosphorescence of the water, the dolphins, whales, sharks, the flying fishes, and all the rest.

[Continues next morning] - previous night he had watched porpoises in the sea which kept pace with them. His porthole and door had closed overnight so the fan was just churning round the same old air and it was very stuffy.

She was very brave about his going away and she wouldn't be dull without him. He will have to wait a long time to hear news from her and wonders if they will still be in Darjeeling when the mail arrives. Many supplies were still on their way notably the oxygen cylinders.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Had planned shortcut but went further south by mistake. Very cold and tired. Warm start next day but then a bitter wind. All felt affects of marching at altitude. Next camp was 3-4 miles from Ta Tsang, warmer night. Warmer next day, bathed in a stream. Country was beautiful. Been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Hair cut very short. Describes what he was wearing.

Detailed Summary
Too much repetition of experiences. Real difference was that it was earlier in the season than the previous year. Planned to take a short cut involving four marches instead of six with 100 animals, while 20 yaks and donkeys took the longer journey but this depended on the grazing available. Morshead had gone to fix the gaming ground. About 5 miles from Phari they diverged from last year’s course and mistakenly went further south. It was bitterly cold but they following the transport to some place the mule-men knew of. Halted in the afternoon with many of the men demoralised. Just about got the tents up to provide some shelter for those who had been knocked out by cold and fatigue. Some sort of a meal was produced before they turned in. He went to look at the animals standing in untidy rows with the snow lying on their backs. The mule-men were squatting round in a circle behind some sort of shelter cheerful and contented. A little later he heard the jangling of animals bells and saw through the tent door some bullocks which had started late, following a figure in his Tibetan garment hitched up round the waist and red Tibetan boots.

They had a cheerful start. He preferred riding mules over ponies. He was the only one to have secured a mule at Phari and they had mostly been ridden by the men servants and Gurkha orderlies. He had brought a saddle and bridle and his beast was shared among four of them, though it was too cold to ride unless he was nearly exhausted. On the second march, they halted at a pass for a mild tiffin. The sun was warm and they were out of the wind. Coming onto another desolate plane the wind caught them. It was a more trying march than any of last year’s although they did very well under the circumstances. Norton organised a hot meal and he had shared an 80 lb tent with Strutt and Morshead. The march had been too long for this stage in proceedings. May not feel the altitude when they were doing nothing but they had all felt it on the march of 22 miles between 16,000 and 17,000 ft. The effect on him was stupidity and his head was invaded by a slight headache and a dull torpor.

The camp was in an attractive spot 3 or 4 miles from Ta Tsang [town] where they had camped the previous year. They had to rest so had a whole day of idleness. The night was warmer. The temperature had been down to zero the night before.

The next 20 miles did not seem too long and Kampa Dzong seemed to have a milder climate but the west wind had been strong and quite cold. The yaks were expected to arrive and then they would be off again following the old stages.

His letter was not a very cheerful account. They had a warm day and he enjoyed bathing before breakfast in the little stream. The country was often beautiful, more beautiful than last year. Believed there was more moisture in the atmosphere and more colour in the landscape. The view from the dzong [fort] above the camp of the two arms of the plain stretched away to the snow mountains [the Gyanka Range - Everest beyond was not visible]. Made him feel that Tibet after all was somehow friendly.

Had been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Morshead’s servant, who accompanied him again this year cut his hair with clippers so he had very little left.

Had been writing the letter in the mess tent for the sake of a high chair and a table for his ink pot. Describes the clothes he was wearing - silk and wool underclothes, a flannel shirt, a sleeved waistcoat, my lambskin coat, a Burberry coat overall – below plus fours and two pairs of stockings under sheepskin boots. He was just sufficiently warm except in the fingertips which touch the paper.

Postscript: He was still very fit in spite of fresh cold at Phari.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’.

He could hear General Bruce dictating his report on their progress in a loud voice while Morris took it down on a typewriter.

They had failed to establish the basecamp at the required point and were now at his old 2nd base camp just below the foot of the glacier. It was a very good place but three more camps would be necessary between there and the North Col whereas they had hoped to manage with two. However with the aid of some Tibetans and a few yaks they hoped to get what they wanted up to the East Rongbuk Stream during the next few days and to use this dump as a sleeping place for journeys up but not for journeys down. He thought that on the whole it was a satisfactory result and there would be great advantages in bringing back everyone for rest at this place rather than higher up.

He had been writing his diary notes for the last few days and would send them to her in the next mail. The differences in the frozen county now from his remembrances of it were 'most striking' and everyone was duly impressed by Everest. The weather was unsettled but he expected many perfect days before the monsoon set in. They would be warm in this camp and not too cold higher up. Everyone was well and cheerful.

He had to go and arrange stores to go up.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’

Brief Summary
Change of plans. He and Somervell to go to No. 3 Camp. Longstaff ill.

Detailed Summary
Was distressed to hear she was ill and hopes she’ll be able to take a planned trip to Wales.

The Tibetan porters had suddenly deserted and so the whole problem of fixing the camp was altered. General Bruce’s new plan was for Mallory and Somervell to go straight to No. 3 Camp (the one below the North Col) and cut steps up to the col, establish a camp and then get as high up the mountain as they can. He thought this would be a tremendous undertaking at this stage.

Was sending her pages from his diary which would explain some of their plans though not quite up to date. The reconnaissance party had found a good route to No. 3 Camp. This was located about where the 21,000 contour hits the North peak, on good moraines at the corner and only about an hour before the slopes leading up to the col. Strutt, Morshead, and Norton came back yesterday but Longstaff, who wasn’t well spent the night at No. 1 Camp and was due to come down that day on a stretcher. Feared he had strained his heart, and also had some throat trouble.

Is sorry he can’t write a better letter when hers are full of love. Wants to show how much he thinks of her and wants her with him to talk to. Is content that she is at home and he has her and the children to return to which makes a happy background to his life here.
Most of his news is in the diary. Feels Somervell to be his very good friend. Young Bruce was also coming up with them to No. 3 Camp. He had been very fit and cheerful. His tummy was slightly out of order today, has little doubt it will be better. Still hadn’t received any new shoes by the mail.

[Postscript up the side margin] - Asks her to tell his Mother that he had been prevented from dealing with the mail and consequently from writing to her. Asks her to thank Clare and Berry for their letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘A mountain camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar]. In the rains'.

Brief Summary
Travels towards home.

Detailed Summary
Complains of no mail and that he had received no news from her for the two last months of summer. Wants her with him and feels it is a waste not to enjoy that country together. The march down to Kharta [region] from the Doya La [high mountain pass] was even more entrancing than the previous year. First valley flower he found was blooming in the same place where he had collected seed pods last year. Saw a magnificent purple primula. Describes flowers and plants he saw including dwarf rhododendrons in full bloom, a willow shrub, primula sikhinensis [sikkimensis], a small iris, a white briar and a rose.

Stayed one day in Teng camping in a very good sheltered spot. The following day was spend chiefly in picnicking in a wonderful place surrounded by pines and overlooking the Arun gorge.

Then into the Kama Valley where the rains started again, but the camp was in a lovely spot on a little knoll overlooking the main valley and on the edge of a little mountain torrent. Describes the fine forests (mostly juniper) and beds of irises. They were waiting on the weather before continuing and he was happy walking about the hillsides or sitting round the camp fire.

They had moved on that day and gone over the Chog La [high mountain pass] which was just over 16,000 ft and just managed to be a snow pass and were camping nearly 2,000 ft below it on the north side and then departed from the Kharta Valley by another ridge and the Sanchang La [high mountain pass]. It was the ideal mountain country and they would have to wait there for 3 days on account of transport difficulties. Hoped the sun would shine for one of the days.

His plan to go through the corner of Nepal had not come off as it was impossible to arrange transport. Instead he would leave from Teng with Somervell and Crawford on 3 July and follow the route he and Bullock took last year as far as Gyanka Nampa. Then they would go south to Sar and keeping south of the Yaru river to the Nago La. Somervell and Crawford planned to stay in Lhonak and he would continue alone. Hoped to arrive in Darjeeling about 20-23 July and would wire from there which boat he would catch.

[Continues on the morning of June 28th] - was writing from bed watching the blue smoke of the cookhouse fire. Life was aimless and he couldn't really enjoy things at present in spite of the lovely flowers and scenery. They were not quite the jolly company they were and an ungraceful air had come over them even though they were well rid of Finch. But they were not bored with each other.

Felt he would take much interest in their garden when he got back.

Letter to Marjorie Turner [his sister-in-law], from Kharta

Thanks her for her jolly letter which she had written on 17 May and which he had received on 27 June. He was in lovely countryside walking with the General and Geoffrey Bruce and Norton when he received it. The last ten days had been a pleasure trip with collecting as an excuse. It had been a good time but the rain had spoilt the best plans. He describes the countryside and flowers including a white primula he had found which he hoped they could bring back and name after him.

Replies to the contents of her letter. He was looking forward to getting back to England at the end of August. He planned to go to Westbrook to eat fruit. Doesn't think he would collect much more on his way back but that day he had got a fine Tibetan fox-skin for Ruth although she would probably say she couldn't wear it. Hoped he would find waiting for him in Darjeeling some small square Tibetan mats for chairs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Olympic on ‘White Star Line’ letterhead

[16 Jan] Had been passing the time by playing deck tennis and taking a plunge bath. There had been some bad storms with furious wind and lighting and torrents of rain causing rough seas. He didn’t like the motion of the sea which made him feel fuzzy and stupid. His writing had been impacted and he still had the ‘Third Attempts’ and a chapter of 'Conclusions' to write. He had been fairly happy with his table companions which included American tourists, and he was amused by their accents.

He had not told them what his business was in America although he had told one couple but thought they would keep his secret as they understood he didn’t want to be bothered about Everest.

[Letter continues later, writing in his bed] – he was glad the voyage would be over the following day. Reminds her about engine oil for the car. Promises to send pictures of New York for her to show the children. His first lecture would be in Washington, D.C. He would have to weed out some jokes that wouldn’t go down well.

[Letter continues on 17 Jan] – It was a very cold morning with a wind like Tibet. They had anchored outside the mouth of the Hudson River, and he was looking forward to seeing the Statue of Liberty.

[Later] – He was staying at the Waldorf Hotel on Fifth Avenue.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Reminisces about their wedding day and looks forward to the birth of their baby. Tells him that Ursula, Cottie, and Mr O'Malley are expected to join him. Informs him of a statement received from Stephenson Harwood & Co where she is profiting from the sale of timber. Expresses her distaste for profiting from the war. Discusses further money issues. Asks for Mr Garrets address for Aunt Agnes. Tells him of her intention to unpack her paints and continue with her china painting. Breaks off for lunch.

Afternoon - Thanks him for his letter. Hopes that his experience of the hotel in Pen y Pass is a good one.

Is thankful for his letters. Describes watching the kittens playing and the weather. Hopes he is having a nice time. Complains that Agnes is not much of a cook. Tells him of her drive with Mildred to Shamley Green and of her wish for them to live there one day. Reminds him to send her his new address and informs him of a coming visit from Anna and Moresco Pierce. Is sorry that Mr Reade will not be joining him.

Asks him how his bank holiday faired. She had finished making a dress. She can't pay the butcher's bill because they have mislaid their accounts. Is expecting Mrs Brock [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] to bring Alan and John to tea. Discusses her book of old wives tales and asks him if he has read Wives and Daughters. She is expecting Alison the next Monday and has not heard from Trafford or Doris.

She hopes he has had a good time in Wales. Is sorry to hear of Mr Pye's recent appendix operation. Tells him of the work she has been doing making up patterns. Major Morgan is expected and is being met by Marjorie and Mildred at the station. Asks him if they could ask David Pye to visit. Hopes that he will have a good time in Yorkshire with his father and Trafford and tells him not to feel blue when at Birkenhead.

Complains that his father has not provided an address. Asks him about his trip and is glad he likes Mr O'Malley. Tells him of visiting their house to collect parcels and organise items for her confinement. Informs him that Ralph [Brooke, husband of George's sister Mary] has 10 days leave and intends to go to Scotland to stay with cousins. Describes her new painting pattern and closes with a description of the weather.

Informs him of Mildred's engagement to Major Morgan and hopes that the right decision has been made. Discusses the future between Major Morgan and her father. Hopes that Major Morgan will be kept safe in the war. Tells him of her sleepless nights and hopes he will return soon.

Complains that the coal has not been delivered. Informs him that Mildred and Marjorie are back from London with an engagement ring. Describes the new design on her plate. Discusses her book Old Wives Tales. She hopes to hear from him soon and tells him she misses him.

Describes the weather and a trip to see the new calf. Tells him about her morning tasks and activities. Tells him about the new maid delaying her start date and her plans to hire a temporary maid. Discusses where to keep their books at the Holt. Expresses her longing for him to be home. Hopes that Clare will become more settled at the Holt.

Updates him on Clare's health and news of Mary Anne and the moving date. Tells him that the temporary maid cannot come. Reflects on their previous letters to each other from the beginning of the war and on her abilities as a housewife. Tells him she plans to make a curtain for the nursery door. Acknowledges his letter and expresses her thoughts on living with challenging people. Expresses her impatience for his return. Informs him that she has enclosed a letter from Ka for him to read. Discusses moving back into the Holt. Expresses her reluctance to attend the study circle meeting without Mary Anne.

Discusses if he might be home in time for the new term. Expresses her opinions about the War Office's slow demobilisation process. Discusses in detail her thoughts about the meaning of humility. Describes her relationship with Aunt Maud. Tells him that Mr Raxworthy and Mary Mussen are visiting. Explains how Uncle Hawes intervened with Mr Fletcher for his release. Retells a story told to her by Mr Raxworthy about Mr Fletcher being rude to a General.

Full Transcript

Marine Hotel,
Selsey,
nr Chichester.

My Dear George
I am writing this first thing on Tuesday morning & I am going up the village to try & get it off by the first post. Marjorie has written asking us to alter our day of returning if possible because of Father's fishing, so if Aunt Rosamond can have us on Wednesday we shall come home then.
I don't think either of us will mind one day less.
The weather looks a bit better today I think we shall have sun on & off.
Yesterday we left the BBs about six & reversed the walk we did on Saturday evening with them. It was misty & quite grey & very very beautiful walking along the wide wet sands with nothing but sand & sky to look at. One felt so far away from every thing and so much just a little bit of it all. I do like to feel like that. There's the sea the trees the flowers the birds & to feel just one of them instead of a person apart as one does in houses that is good.
I can feel more part of the spring and of it all than I have ever felt before because I'm doing what its all doing & making more. I must go on with this letter any longer or Im[sic] afraid shall miss the post. I hope I haven't.

Very much love
Ruth

alike seem quite powerless