Showing 3417 results

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

To show her what life was like he would describe two scenes. Scene I 12.30am to 1.30am – Noise of several hooters and the great bell clanging. Hurried figures moving in the street or standing at the doors of houses all wearing a mask with goggles. The gun numbers hasten to the gun carrying a large parcel on their tummies from which a snake seems to leap up to their mouths. All stand around for an hour imagining they see gas in the air. Then when its been established gas has not come their way they all troop back to bed.

Scene II – long grass and the breeze of early summer rustling the trees. Two men in the middle of a garden space looking at the sky through field glasses for hostile aeroplanes. A figure lying in a camp armchair idly reading a novel and another by him on the grass. Occasionally look skyward too.

He was sitting out now towards dinner time. Occasionally could hear a field gun going off but chiefly could hear the soft whizz of shells. Only 10 mins since their band had stopped – trombone, melodion, penny whistle, tambourine (very homemade) and Bell on the flute.

There were many idle moments but next week he would be on duty and his responsibilities would be greater. His stomach was out of sorts possibly caused by a stew and he couldn’t eat.

She is not to be alarmed when he talks about gas as the respirators were very efficient and not too bad to wear and they were far enough away to have plenty of warning. He is afraid the poor fellows in the trenches must get caught sometimes.

Sends his love to all at Birkenhead.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from The Waldorf-Astoria, New York [letterhead]

His agent, Keedick, had met him from the boat and taken him to the hotel. He had arranged a few lecture dates but was waiting to see how it caught on. He had been to see a melodrama at the Broadhurst Theatre which was where he was due to give lectures on 4 and 11 February. He had been interviewed by 4 pressmen and they had gone away happy. Had a long talk with a young man who circulated to the press information about the hotel’s distinguished visitors. The young man had told him of a self made industrial magnate who had said education was a waste of time and they tried to set up an animated discussion by getting him [Mallory] to say all the mountaineers on the expedition were men of science or that mental training had more to do with the matter than physique. He thought this was very childish and that Americans were boyish.

Describes the architecture of the buildings, the skyscrapers, his admiration of the Public Library on 5th Avenue, and the streets at night.

It had been nice to be in the theatre where he was to lecture. The acting had been slow and the audience very simple. He would have to change his style of lecturing but thought he would be able to get hold of them.

His social engagements were not very satisfactory but realised he had few introductions and hoped people who had promised to write to friends had done so.

The prices were astonishing - 7d for 3 bits of toast at breakfast and 1s for an orange.

He had found Mr Murray’s address as he wanted to get his book on Boswell published in America.

In a postscript he says he is enclosing an American advertisement, he describes his room and where he is sitting, and tells her to keep this letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Thanks her for sending the mittens, towels and calling cards.

After working hours they had a long meal in the evening for which they made a rule for sociability. He liked his companions very well.

Yesterday an old acquaintance turned up – his first tutor in college at Winchester. They were all to be examined at the end and he would be happy to come half way down. Most of the tests so far had been physical and despite his weak right side he had done fairly well. Today they had loaded against time. He was one of two that had to lift the shells and put them in the breech. It wasn’t easy to load quickly and neatly with a 100lb weight. They had also had lectures in the drill hall and there was a certain amount of standing around which the men found trying.

He had written to Miss Whittaker to make arrangements for her [Ruth] to pay 30s a week and have a trial week or fortnight.
He had learned by heart a list of what the nine at the gun and 4 others have to carry as hand props. It was an incredible number with such words to describe the equipment.

Sends his love to all at Westbrook.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was sorry she was cold staying with the Tallents but it would make her wear her fur coat. Wonders if she attracted more attention when she wore it. He had arranged a private room close to the mess and the prospect of being able to retire to solitude was a wonderful alleviation. She musn’t think of him being depressed at Xmas as they would have a very merry day in the battery.

Hoped to see Robert soon if he could find him in Dunkirk. was sorry she hadn’t see Robert and that Nancy wasn’t more forthcoming.Robert was a good person but his great fault was to value applause more than merit. That might be too hard but he did like publicity far too much.

He had ordered a pair of spectacles. Had been having headaches for the last two days and had hardly read anything which was depressing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Sends his Christmas wishes for her and describes the new room he has moved into a short distance from the mess. He would be able to spend a great deal of time there except for occasional duties as orderly officer and a French class he was going to start for a few of the men.

Morning - the bed was comfortable. He was busy writing Xmas letters and would write to Mary and Mary Ann. He was annoyed they had rushed them out of the Holt but it wasn’t their fault. He thought it was Fletcher’s fault as he should have found out that demobilisation would be taken out of the hands of the War Office as soon as the armistace was signed and so applied for his release before the armistace and then let him refuse if the war had continued. He should have let them know at once that the arrangements had fallen through.

Was glad she was getting on well about servants. £35 sounded a lot for wages but supposed paying extra was worth it for good servants. Hadn’t heard if he had secured the purchase of the painting in Paris. What would she do about labour for the garden at the Holt? It might take 9 months to get demobilised but might not take that long.

Had two photos of her and Clare on his mantlepiece. Sends his love to her father, Mildred and Marjorie, the Lawrence Turners and the Haves Turners.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Nearing Port Said’

Brief Summary
Describes the weather and motion of the sea. He had been sight seeing in Malta. Some uncertainty about end of voyage as there would be a delay in arriving at Calcutta. Due to arrive in Port Said the following day.

Detailed Summary
He had been very busy since they left Malta and the weather had been wet, muggy and windy. There had been a good deal of motion and quite a big sea the day before but he had not been seasick. There was something disturbing and restless about the motion of the sea which made it very difficult to concentrate on anything, it affected his head and produced a kind of dullness that made it impossible to write. Malta was a great joy, but he had been so busy seeing things he did not get newspapers or postcards and it was beyond him to describe Malta without the postcards as it had a very complicated harbour. There were several battleships in the harbour. Describes what he did during his four hours on shore including a visit to the church of St. John [the Knights of Malta] and seeing a very fine collection of armour at the Governors Palace.

He had completed one green rucksack and was happy about his equipment. Asks her to convey his welcome to the Holt and to their friends the Hodges who were visiting her. Asks her to return Hodge’s compass which he didn't need and would be sorry if it got lost. Asks her to send a copy of Robert Bridges Spirit of Man to V. J. Hamilton.

There was some uncertainty about the end of his voyage as the ship would have to stay at Madras unloading heavy cargo, delaying his arrival in Calcutta. Had written to Younghusband and Raeburn asking what he should do in Darjeeling. They were due to arrive in Port Said early the next day but he wouldn't receive her letter. He would try and send a postcard but it was unlikely as the mail steamer was short of coal. He thougth about her alot and had her photo in the book he was reading. He had received a jolly note from Rupert Thompson [a friend from the Pen y Pass climbing parties] and would write him a line of thanks.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 19 1917'

Had been reading the six letters that had arrived from her and discusses the news in them mainly about friendships and their daughter Clare.

He had shared the dug out with an infantry man who had got very wet and was shivering. They messed together all day but the infantry man had to stay another 24 hours. The infantry had to endure bad times and had a much worse time of it. Showed the Colonel around and he had been praised for his work liaising with the infantry. The Colonel said he would tell the General. Wood was returning and Dunbar was going on a course. A treat that he had refused.

He had received a letter from Lieutenant Bonneau [whom he had met when he was liaison officer with the French] and it was settled they would stay with him and his wife in Paris after the war and then they would visit them.

Yesterday he wore a thick vest, two flannel shirts, a woolly waistcoat, a thin tunic and a mackintosh and was moderately warm.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’17 Carlyle Rd, Cambridge’

Brief Summary
George left America after this lecture tour in March 1923. This letter is written in October to Ruth ahead of their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would receive news of George’s death 8 moths later.

Most of this letter concerns plans for moving into Herschel House, including logistics and decorating and furniture choices. The end of the letter is about plans for another expedition to Mount Everest in 1924.

Detailed Summary
They could get into Herschel House on Monday 29th after he had been to a Climbers Club Committee meeting. He had arranged for furniture from the Holt to be cleared on the Saturday morning. Wondered if he should be there for the packing but doubts if it was worthwhile. If he went by car he could take a few plants if there were any she hadn’t already taken.

They would have to wait to make decisions about getting more paper from Jeffries’ for the hall etc.

He had seen Uncle Lawrence and arranged not to have the mantlepiece at present. He had the address of a firm who supplied Dutch blue tiles but he wanted the address of the firm her father had recommended.

He would make out a list of plants he wanted for her guidance and asks if she will inform Westbrook when they would want the stuff from there.

The sale at Herschel House would be on Tuesday 30th in a tent in the garden but there was so little it wouldn’t interfere with their moving in but wondered if they should go to the Elliot’s until it was over. There would be a good new bed in the sale and thought her bargain with Marby [Ruth’s sister Marjorie] wasn’t a good one as it would mean an extra mattress but he would leave it to her.

He would write to Alex Turner to ask their advice about what fixtures they could take from the Holt such as electric light fittings and curtain rods.

They would wait to decide about curtains although he inclined to the new zig zag stuff for the study.

Sealing wax paint couldn’t be used. Could they do a design in a simple colour, white or yellow or umber on the doors and some simple affair on the staircase? He was veering toward brown stain again. As they weren’t going to spend money on the drawing room mantlepiece they could spend more on the staircase.

[Letter continues later] – he had a very tiring drive back last night with a lot of mist. The committee meeting had been long but good. Farrar wouldn’t turn up as he was angry about turning down Finch. Bruce had been in a hotel in Switzerland where Finch had been and was asked whether it was he who was helping Finch to arrange the next expedition [to Mount Everest].

They had to contradict tales about a shortage of funds. Longstaff had heard of it and thought it was very wrong of Farrar as it wasn’t true. Had dinner with Longstaff. Hinks had written to Cranage about his going and he brought up the question with Longstaff although Hinks’ letter hadn’t turned up. He had not turned it down definitely, but he didn’t think they would hear of this going. It would be a big sacrifice for him either way.

It was wretched not being able to talk to her about. She must tell him if she couldn't bear the idea of him going again and that would settle it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

They were leaving their old comfortable quarters in the rain which was unlucky and unnecessary. Had eaten an early breakfast and were waiting for a lorry to take up their kit. Wasn’t sorry to be moving and would soon be comfortable again. Hoped for a better dugout.

Previous day he had started writing a poem and then Boal from 109 Battery came and spent the evening with them.

Yesterday he and Bell had a day out in Amiens buying potatoes. They were hard to find and they had to go to a cheap vegetable market in the old quarters. They gave a rather jolly woman a ride in their car from her house to a stall in the market which she enjoyed. He bought eggs and then went to a haberdashery so Bell could buy two garments for his little girls.

He enjoyed chatting with French people, who had a quick sense of humour and seemed good simple people. Was glad he was in charge of buying provisions. It helped that he could speak French so he got it cheaper and wasn’t cheated and he got to go on jaunts away from the battle. It was extraordinary how little was doing there now. No talk of leave and Lithgow and Bell would go first.

Had received two letters from her. Comments on the Northcliffe hero. Says its the regular Daily Mail nonsense but was surprised and disgusted The Times printed that sort of stuff. Wondered what America is going to do.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had wasted no time in applying for his early demolilisation [his occupation was schoolmaster]. He was staying with Trafford. He had a good place in a farm house about 6 or 7 miles from Doullens on the Arras road. It was a very comfortable camp and the countryside was quite unspoilt and rather attractive. He was interested in the army schemes for occupying itself pending demobilisation. Trafford’s Squadron were training as they would in England as if the war was continuing which was ridiculous but they had to be employed. He believed the Army had some educational scheme but he wondered who would organise and teach it.

Trafford had a good deal of the regular soldier about him. Wishes he showed a little more sympathy. Wonders what he will do in civilian life and what manner he would adopt.

The cold snap had ended and was agreeably warm. The window’s of the Officer’s Mess in the truck had been put in lettin gin light and air. He would get back the velvet curtains and maybe some others as they would go well in his study.

He hadn’t received a parcel since the one from Fortnum and Masons and they were short of flour again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 18 1917'

Had a splendid walk into P. which he thought must have been one of the most lovely towns in the world. The enemy had gone away and they wouldn’t see action again until they crossed the river.

Lithgow was as cheery and energetic as ever. They had joined up again with all seven officers in the mess together. Hoped the battery would stay together when they moved otherwise he would be with the left half with Glen, Dunbar, and Johnson.

He was back again in his deep dug-out with Wood and Hutchinson. Wood was much brighter and quite talkative. He was a northerner and quite enterprising and amiable but not interesting.

The pursuit was very slow and they would probably be held up in front of St Quentin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'A Trench'

Had remembered it was his birthday. Had been brought up to a trench. First time he had been quite near the Germans and seen their trenches. Had a good view from an observation post. First shots very successful with three rounds fired and all hitting same spot. Germans had started sending shrapnel over so they had retired into the dug outs.

He had only got three hours sleep so wasn’t happy yesterday. They were registering targets but trouble was the noise of the trucks on the nearby road. Works were interfered with by shooting, the arrival of ammunition and the presence of the other half battery.

Asks her to send some back copies of The Times. Had just received letters from various people but no cakes. Says she ought to encourage Violet to take up war work if the Government require it but he would regret her departure.

Was feeling better after a good night’s sleep and things were calmer and happier. He was often in poetical mood. Would attempt to describe the Mess and various officers in his next letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Wednesday July 18' [Wed was actually the 19th]

They had had three days of idleness and bad weather and it was very depressing. Discusses the current situation in the battle and the hope they all had the Russians would win them the war. Had heard from his mother that Trafford would be going out almost at once. Had received the parcel of butter which was delicious. Had been sent to town to see the Field Cashier Comments on the state of the town.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Looking forward to seeing her on Thursday and suggested meeting at George the Confectioners at the continuation of Royal Terrace. Mrs Q was so nice he was feeling happy about her [Ruth]. He had written to his mother to see if she would come but doubted she would. Had lectures all day and no physical work. He thought the pain in his side was muscular. This afternoon’s lecture had been given in the gun shed with him laying on a coil of rope.

He had made friends with an architect and climber called Courtnay. He had received a cheery letter from Graves who was safe for the present and also a letter from Raymond who was not safe and he didn’t expect him to survive the war.

Postscript - asks her to bring some tea as the mess would be glad of some.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 18 1916'

He had arrived at the rest camp with half the battery. Describes walking in the valleys, finding the stream and being very happy. Would be even more happy if she were with him.

Lithgow was to arrive that day and he the camp Commandant of R.G.A. [the Royal Garrison Artillery] and he was to be his orderly officer. Hoped it wouldn’t affect his freedom.

[Continues later] – had been to lunch with the A.S.C. people [ammunition column] and met two Carthusians [former pupils of Charterhouse School where Mallory had been a school master]. Had received letter from her, Graves, Mr Allen, and his mother. Explains he can’t write full accounts in his letters because of the censors. He had missed Robert’s name in the casualty lists. He was disappointed in his poems and wished he hadn’t published them as it would have been better for his reputation to wait.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Amiens Cathedral, France, 'Aug 19 1916'

Describes Amiens Cathedral.

Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Anchor Line, T.M.S. California [Letterhead], March

Full Transcript

My Dearest Ruth,

It is Saturday and early on Wednesday morning we shall be in Bombay, so the voyage is nearing its end. I had a scheme of writing you a little each day, but though I have thought of you often I have written little [struck through] nothing. The fact is that the days after all turn out to be too short. As you may imagine my first idea has been to keep fit. It is never very easy in the hot weather, and though it was cool enough until we were in the Canal it has been hot since then – not remarkably hot, but limp-hot. For two days going down the Red Sea we had a following wind; there was no air on the ship and our cabin with the afternoon soon became insufferable. One night I tried to sleep on deck, with two pillows and two deck chairs to help me, but though it was pleasant enough lying under the stars, too exciting perhaps I got no sleep and in the early morning retired to the cabin. But the nights have been bearable except for that one and the great way to be fit is to perspire freely both before breakfast and again in the evening before dinner. With Beetham and Irvine I do a good deal of throwing and catching the medicine ball and that proves the best way of all. Occasionally I run, ten times round the deck, which is about a mile. Anyway activities of this sort cut into the time between tea and dinner; after dinner when I don’t play Bridge (ie. about every other night) I don’t find I get much done of anything serious and one is hot and stuffy and after dinnerish. However I have a done a good whack at Hindustani at which I hope to be very much more efficient this time. I have read a little history; I have written the article for Blackie and Son and I have studied the oxygen apparatus and gone through lists of stores and invoices so as to get to know exactly what we have that we shall want from the Base Camp on and have my own list in a notebook. The one serious omission is crampons – nothing but the old-fashioned heavy kind; it is very disappointing; I made a great point of that with the equipment people. It means we shall have to cut steps up the final slope I suppose. The oxygen apparatus is going to be awkward to carry and particularly to cut steps when wearing it will be difficult. I have spent some time too going into the question of organising high camps; but it is difficult to come to any conclusions at present and I think very likely our plan should be to have a stray reconnaissance using oxygen from the North Col to decide the heights of different places suggested and also how many people could sleep there. The point of using oxygen would be to preserve the strength of those making the reconnaissance. However this plan would be rather expensive of organisation, and I doubt whether we shall carry it out.

The ship has been much more agreeable since we unshipped our cargo of Scotch tourists at Port Said. There is room now on board and one can find a corner and get away and be quiet if one wants to. We sit eight at a table of whom one is Irvine and it is quite an agreeable little crowd. I am always down and have finished breakfast before anyone else arrives unless it is Irvine and then seek solitude, so I hardly see anything of anybody before lunch. If people see one busy – and they have grown accustomed to see me busy – they don’t mercifully, disturb one. Even so it isn’t easy to get much done; if one sits in a wind papers blow about and if one sits out of it one is too hot. They are a nice lot of people quiet and dullish and unobjectionable. I fear I’m not seeming very sociable, but they have asked me to give a talk about our expedition and I have agreed to do that tomorrow night.

I’ve a sort of feeling that I’ve left all the difficult things to you. I do wonder how you’ll get on about selling the Holt and letting Herschel House, and building our new wall and dealing with the garden. I came to no agreement with you about paying bills while I am away – I think the best plan will be for you to pay none unless it seems urgently necessary; I think there can hardly be any to pay, unless it is the Army and Navy stores for port wine and any Everest things, e.g. Bodger’s and Beales can wait.
Don’t forget the wine cellar must be locked up if you let the house; and in the cellar is the over mantle for Mrs Lock.
I wonder where you will be when you get this. As your plans were vague I shall post to Herschel House; and it should get there about April 5 and may catch you. Your first letter to me should reach Bombay 2 days after us and so I should only have 2 days in Darjeeling to wait for it.

I haven’t said a word to you about my hip which was bothering me – you will have gathered that it is better, and it is indeed perfectly well and strong, so that I never think of it or notice it; in fact I am pretty fit altogether; my ankle and its behaviour in new boots are the only anxiety; but I have a comfortable old pair for marching and shoes besides so I should be all right.
I feel this to be a very dull letter. I hope you got my communications from Port Said all right, particularly 2 boxes of Turkish Delight addressed to all three children. I want to know about that because I had to get them despatched from a shop. And did I ask you to send photos of yourself and them? I do like to have them.

Monday – The end of the voyage begins to loom near. Thoughts of the journey across India and various details obtrude themselves. I shall begin packing today, because I don’t see exactly how I am to dispose of the heavy suit in which I came on board – you’ll remember that I haven’t much room left in the suitcases.

I find myself wanting to see India again and looking forward to the journey in spite of heat and dust. How dirty we shall be by the time we reach Calcutta!

The Indian Ocean has been remarkably smooth and lifeless, and rather grey as it always is – until today when it is all alive with a delicious breeze, and blue like the Mediterranean. We’ve seen nothing of interest but a school of dolphins which performed with a truly amazing joie de vivre.

It is curious that now I am in warm sunshine I must think of you in a summer frock – March 17 – perhaps it is snowing in Cambridge. England does look a little grim from the tropics at this time of year. But you’ll have an English spring and sunshine. I wonder if you will go to see Mill give them my love if you do – I do like the way they have settled down – they’ve done it very nicely, and they are nice happy people.

How I wish I had you with me; with so much leisure we should have enjoyed this time together; and I would have been able to give you so much more than I can give you in our daily life at home. Supposing that you instead of Hazard had been sharing my cabin and I could have peeped over in the morning from my perch and seen you lying below and we would have gone up into the bows together in our silk dressing gowns to breathe the fresh morning air and sat together here where now I am alone – dear girl we give up and miss a terrible lot by trying to do what is right; but we must see we don’t miss too much.

I shall write again before we leave Darjeeling, one day early next week so as to catch the next mail after this one, which will go out on Friday the 21st.

Great love to you, dearest one, and many, many kisses for the children.
Ever you loving
George

P.S. I’m sending a few stamps I bought off a man in the street in Port Said. If you know any small boy of our acquaintance, Bobby, or John, or Franz, will you send them on to one of them. Aunt Jessie will probably have them and anyway is old enough to know better.
G.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

The adjunct said he wouldn't be on church parade for the next two weekends but the course he was taking was due to go to a remote place called Lavington in Wiltshire. The Colonel had mentioned Friday 26th but he feared they would keep them there all weekend. After completing the course he would get 48 hours leave and then could put in for six days overseas leave before going out.

The canvas part of his bed had not come with his kit. Asks if it had come back to her and if so could she send it by parcel post.

Interesting lecture on gas shells. The Germans had great difficulty getting gas masks due to the shortage of rubber.

Hoping to get to Winton after tea to get the clutch adjusted on his motorbike.

[Continues later] - it was raining so couldn't face going to Winchester. Still doubtful if he would be home after the trip to Lavington but he didn't think it worth postponing the christening.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 17 1916'

He had heard nothing more about leave. The climbing boots had arrived and he had every hope that they would keep his feet warm. Cake and buns had also arrived. They would have the buns for tea when Austin Earl was due to come. He had arrived at lunch time but had only just had his breakfast.

They were doing little considering the dry weather. He had dug with the men for an hour and then spent the rest of the time in his dugout reading M. Chéradame's Pan-Germanisme - a very interesting part about the population of southern Serbia. He had wrapped his curtain round his knees as it made all the difference to his warmth. The supply of paraffin wasn’t unlimited so he couldn’t burn his stove day and night and he preferred to use it after dark. The mess room was not a warm place.

Charmier and Sheppard came in last evening but not to dinner. He liked Shepherd who came in talking about the Dardanelles and the coast of Asia Minor. Dunbar and Wood had also been to dinner to eat a brace of pheasants which came from the Captain’s shooting.

His turn on the observation post tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 17 1917'

He had been very busy with new ammunition. The Germans had retreated giving away a large chunk of territory on the Somme. Dunbar had returned from the observation post and Johnson had gone up. Wishes he was up there.

Three good letters from her and one from Mary. Glad she had been staying with Ruth. Was sorry to hear Ruth didn’t think Clare would be brainy but he was sure she would be a very nice person.

Would like to go up the line tonight but didn’t think he could do much good as it would take the Infantry a wile to make contact with the enemy as they had to cross the river.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 17 1916'

Comments on her reply to his views on religious education.

Responds to her question as to whether he will be older after the war by saying he used to be more gay but could be so again after the war and this healthy life of action was wonderfully youth giving.

Had little to do yesterday and were still idle. Describes what he thinks will happen next in the battle. They were in the thick of the fighting and half the places mentioned in the papers were in their line of fire or visible from the observations posts.

Thanks her for two parcels. Asks her to send soup tablets. It was wet weather. Bell was playing the flute. He had written to his mother so that would save her copying out his letter. Corrects her spelling of the word ‘copying’ [Ruth was dyslexic]. Asks her to read over her letters before sending them as some of her omissions makes it difficult to make out the meaning. Hopes she treats other people better than she treated him in that resect. He didn’t think it nice for her to let her thoughts go forth in such a careless fashion. Says he has been severe and says she writes very good letters and he didn’t want her to change the general manner.

Comments on Clutton-Brock’s reviews. Discusses how the canteen operates. Asks if she had received a photo of him that Sayle said he would send from Cambridge. He has one of her pinned to a sandbag.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

He had not a moment to write to her in breaks during the day. Had spent 3 ½ hours on gun drill. About 6 men stand around the breech of an old gun and load and fire it. When giving the order you had to shout to be heard over the noise of imaginary guns going off all round in the drill hall. The loads weighed 100lbs and he had been concerned for his back but it had survived so far. He listened to explanations without comment as it was part of his present mood not to do so. He was still of the opinion that it was a good Christian job. The lectures that day had been elementary.

She wasn’t to worry about the towels if they were hard to get at but he did want her to send the calling cards as he had to pay calls to a general, colonel and the mess.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 17 1917'

He had missed the dispatch rider and so had received no letter from her again and couldn’t give the one he had written to be taken.

He felt like a fish out of water [at his new liaison posting]. As there was no room where the Heavy Artillery were, he was billeted with some Divisional Artillery not far away. Everything was in a horrible muddle and he hoped to return to a more settled way of life in a few days.

The thaw had started in earnest. Wishes he could write a happy and interesting letter. Describes the Commandant who was the one person there who interested him.

The French said plenty of nice things about our army and that the men were magnificent soldiers but they were disappointed and always waiting for us. The French were war-weary, not discouraged but bored. It was a great disappointment that they couldn’t get on faster on the Somme. The French were always ahead of the English, obtaining their objectives and then waiting.

Was thinking of her a lot and wished for a letter from her.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Tinkye Dzong

Full transcript

Darling Ruth,

This is only a hurried line at the end of a full day - to tell you (1) that my tummy is in perfect order again, & I feel as fit as possible. It was a funny go altogether & quite inexplicable. Naturally there was a small appendicitis scare as the tenderness was on the right side, but Somervell was practically sure from the start that I was free from that.

(2) Beetham came on with us. It was Somervell’s decision on the very morning of leaving Kampa Dzong – that is to say S [Somervell] had to decide that B [Beetham] would get better; & no doubt he is right. But it is one thing to have no more dysentry & another to get really fit again after all that when living at this altitude. At present B [Beetham] looks years older in much the same way as Raeburn did in ’21, only at a younger stage & has quite lost all kick & there was no one more energetic earier. Still he may be a useful reserve climber in the end.

(3) I’ve had a brain wave – no other word will describe the process by which I arrived at another plan for climbing the mountains;-
(a) A. & B. with 15 porters (about) starting from IV (North Col) establish V building emplacements for 4 tents at about 25,500 & descend.
(b) C. & D. gassless party go to V with another 15 porters of whom 7 carry loads & descend, the other 8 group without loads practically speaking & sleep.
(c) C. & D. proceed to establish a camp VII at 27,300 (about) with these 8 porters carrying up 6 loads.
(d) E. & F. gas party on the same day as (c) start wthh 10 porters (about) from IV, go without loads to V & from that point E. & F. using oxygen they take on the stores & gas previously dumped at V about 1,000ft higher to VI at 26,500.
(e) Then the two parties start next morning & presumably meet on the summit.

You will readily perceive the chief merits of this plan; - the mutual support which the two parties can give each other; the establishment of camps without waste of reserve climbers (A. & B. will not have done so much that they can’t recover); the much better chance this way of establishing VI without collapse of porters. And then if this go fails we shall be in the best possible position to decide how the next attempt should be made; four climbers we hope will be available & the camps either way will be all ready.

This plan has such great advantages over all others that Norton has taken it up at once & this evening we had another pow wow & everyone has cordially approved. I’m much pleased about this as you may imagine - if only for this it seems worth while to have come; for Norton’s plan was fundamentally unsound I’m sure & might have had very bad results; & in this one there is much greater safety. It is impossible yet to say who the parties will be. N [Norton] & I have talked about it; he thinks Somervell & I should lead each one of these two parties; he puts himself in my hands as to whether he should be one of them – isn’t that generous? We shall have to judge as best we can of people’s fitness when we reach the Base Camp. Odell has not been showing up well; but either he or Irvine must be of the gas party.

We have stayed one day here for transport, as against 3 last year when Longstaff was ill; & we hope only to stay one day at Shekar, & so we should be two or three days up at the Base Camp.

No mail yet – one should have arrived today.
Much love to you.

Ever your loving, George

I didn’t tell you that I bought a pony at Kampa Dzong, a very good animal, though too thin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 17 1917'

Had been doing observation work. Saw Germans against the skyline but his battery weren't allowed to fire. Two hours later a few rounds were fired but did no good so that was disappointing. He had been exploring a wood for a new observation post as he didn't like the place Hutchinson and Johnstone had found because it was a favourite dugout of the Germans. Many trees had been destroyed but he liked being in a wood and the feeling of the earth under the trees. Green things were beginning to carpet the ground and he saw wood anenomies and oxslips. He built a fire and had coffee and sardines for breakfast. He found three good O.P.s in the woods and had wires laid.

Describes firing on a target before an infantry attack, the bombardment from the Germans, and how the communications were managed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Wonders what Fletcher had done about applying for his return. He might be home within a few weeks or if the application failed then it might take 3 months.

They had no orders to move yet and so they might stay there until peace preliminaries had been signed. There was uncertainty as to where they would spend the winter. The weather was getting colder especially at night.

That morning a plane had flown low overhead and dropped somthing red. It was a parcel for him from Trafford wrapped in red bunting. Trafford was going to come the day after tomorrow to take him off in his car to stay with him.

Wasn’t sure where the oak tree was that she mentioned but they would be glad of the wood if they could cut it up and cart it off. How was she doing for coal? Doesn’t see why the coal ration shouldn’t now be increased. Was sorry to hear that Violet may leave them as they wouldn’t get anyone as good. Agreed that the immediate future would be a good time to get servants. Thought it unwise to get Maggie Dunsby unless she was stronger than she used to be.

17 November - she might ask Violet to stay and nurse Beridge until she is 2 years old. Hoped to be back in time to have some time before term started.