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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'A dilapidated old town in France'

He had received no letters from her and he wanted to hear from her very much. He seemed to have lived ever so long in observation and emotion since they parted and he had hardly told her anything of what he had thought and experienced in the last 10 days. He wanted to describe to her how he was living.

He was living in a cottage in the middle of a straight street which could have been described as a slum except for green trees looking over a garden wall. Running water at one end of the street with meadows, trees and farmsteads. At the other end was a half ruined church. They occupied 10 or 12 houses in a section of the street. His bedroom was on the ground floor at one end with the Officer’s Mess at the other end. These rooms had elegant furniture in them.

The Officers in this mess were very decent lot of fellows. [Lieutenant] Bell was very studious that evening sitting up at the table, while he sat in an arm chair, translating the famous passage in Pascal’s Pensees. He sees practically no one else so its lucky he likes the man. He had now met three men who started in the Gunners at the age of 14 or 15 and taken Commissions during the war and all were quiet observing men with a marked refinement of feeling and living in harmony with life. All three were competent and easy going. Bell hadn’t any of the hard driving manner associated with school masters, Prussians and ordinary soldiers. He didn’t shout or swear or drill the men but they knew keenly what to do. They would be gently but firmly admonished if they didn’t.

He was learning from this example but hadn’t too much to do so far. He was in command of No. 4 gun detachment under Bell’s supervision. He had inspected gas helmets that day and would see the guard tonight. Had spent the time finding how everything worked and where it was. Had spent some time in an observation post. Nothing to be seen of the Germans. He had played the game of shell dodging on the way to the observation post. You could hear them coming and had time to get out of the way. Danger was of a battery being spotted by an aeroplane.

He would describe the garden in his next letter and asks her to send seedlings if she think they would survive. Asks her to send plum cake if its not too heavy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Describes hardships of digging in the rain and getting wet without prospect of drying out. Difficulty getting supplies like pit props, timber, iron nails, sandbags and wire netting as the demand was greater than supply. Had searched for bread and potatoes but here was no bread as bakers couldn’t get flour and mills couldn’t get corn. Had ration bread but it was difficult to eat. Had got 3 kilos of potatoes, French beans and a bottle of red wine. Describes difficulties of feeding men when you arrive in a new place. Had eaten well in Mess on haggis and plum pudding thanks to Captain Lithgow. Describes the cook who caused the worst of their discomforts. Hoped another half battery would arrive soon with their cook. Asks her to send more tea.

Comments on her letters. Likes to think of her seeing friends in London.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

His weekends would be free and there was plenty of good country for her – he liked the looks of the east side of Dorchester.

There were 14 in the house all feeding together and 100 in the drawing room. He was sharing his bedroom with another man who looked a quiet, gentle sort. The folk at the Barracks looked very nice especially Clarke who knew Ralph Brooke [his brother in law]. Usual questions this time from a Colonel assuming he was a child of 17. There was a group of Irish from Dublin University who would probably be amusing.

Was glad he would have to search for rooms for her at the weekend as there was nothing else to do. Then there would be lectures, lectures, lectures and for fresh air gun drill.

He would write as soon as he had seen some places nearby - he liked the sound of Todpuddle, Tincleton and Little Bredy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 14 1917'

He had not received any letters from her since 2nd and was hoping to before he left the next day for a new liaison posting.

He had been very happy with these people who were very agreeable and intelligent especially Bonneau. The next lot didn’t attract him although they lived in a very nice place – a little village of dugouts in a big chalk quarry. He didn’t expect to be there long and afterwards would be with General Perkins at III Corps H.A.

His liaison had been a success from a personal point of view but not much use otherwise. Was pleased with the report he had sent in after seeing the Aviation. He had gone to a lot of trouble to understand the French artillery and understood it in general terms better than their own.

Last night he had played chess and dined with some anti aircraft people nearby including Fowler, a very nice Wykehamist [attended Winchester College with Mallory] and was a very good mathematician and Fellow at Trinity.

He was still in bed at 8.15am when a Frenchman arrived to collect his luggage. He had it ready in 40 mins. It was a lovely morning and the crows had arrived. He loved crows as they were reassuring. Wished he was going to the next place in 6 weeks time as it would be lovely in the Spring.

He was anxious for news of her. Had a vision of her crying with her head in his lap and he had the feeling that she was trying to reach him.

[He then includes some extracts from his literary notebook]

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 14 1917'

He had seen the doctor about his ankle and it was bandaged to give it support and he would need an operation after the war. He was glad to know what was wrong and that there was a remedy. He hated the present trouble because it was a weakness and a sort of deformity.

They had not received anymore information and if there had been a big success they would have done so. He wasn't happy about that.

Dunbar had had a nasty fall and hurt his knee so the doctor looked at it and he was to be chief nurse in looking after Dunbar.

From today they were going to have to man the observation post from dawn until dusk and were making a little dugout for shelter. They would probably go back to the 48 hour system which was on the whole the best. He thought about pitching his tent in a wood nearby but thought it, or the contents, might be stolen.

Wonders how Mildred and Bob were getting on [in Wales]. Asks if she remembers their time there with David Pye.

The men were trying to find more cellars but they had all been blown up.

Was glad to hear that Mary Ann was going to have a rest and that Ruth would be staying with her. Thought she would enjoy London by way of a change.

Talks about the end of the war and her nervousness about his return.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [First page is missing]

Brief Summary
Exploring and taking photographs with Bullock. Outlines plans for reconnaisance which he anticipated would take a week to day days but had been hampered by a shortage of rations and the weather which was crucial for the success of the expedition. Hoped to ascend a high peak of 23,000ft. They planned to start final campaign by mid August and be returning to Darjeeling by mid September. A route to the west was impassible so they abandoned it and made plans to explore to the east.

Detailed Summary
14 July - He and Bullock started late (6am) to explore the glacier to the west and southwest and after a fine morning he had stayed to take photographs. Refers to a hand drawn map [possibly on the missing first page]. He got one or two good photographs while Bullock looked along a glacier for a south west pass into Nepal.

15 July - He started early (2.30am) and got up the small peak by 5.30am. The clear dawn and the mountain views were indescribably wonderful. Everest itself blocked out all sun and the cwm remained a cold dark hollow behind the brightly lit snows. He took photos all round. They knew about the shape and position of the cwm but it remained to be explored. They didn't know how it ran up the col between Everest and the peak to the south. They would have to get into it and some way up it. They planned to force a way over the col and down into the cwm, taking Mummery tents. Arrangements had gone wrong and they were short of rations. There were no hopes of the weather tomorrow - it was too warm; the snow didn't lie.

18 July - The right weather was essential foor the success of the expedition. Complains of idle days. He anticipated a desolating experience in the Mummery tents. They aimed to finish the reconnaissance of the west side of the mountain which was very unlikely to offer a possibility of ascent. Then they would concentrate on the north-west aretes. He estimated a week or ten day’s reconnaissance and the ascent of a high peak (over 23,000 ft) which he was very keen to accomplish. Made plans to move down to the new Headquarters and hoped to start on a final campaign by the middle of August. He planned to have failed or succeeded by the middle of September at the latest, and then head to Darjeeling. Plans subject to the weather. .

20 July - They failed to get into the great cwm because it is unapproachable. This finished their reconnaissance on the west side. He must get down to Base Camp that day. He was organising an expedition to the east which ought to be very interesting. Howard-Bury would be moving on 24 July to join his new Base Camp in a valley to the east.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Hopes she will have had the baby by the time he arrives on Saturday.

Had dined with the Garbutts last night. Hoped to have the motorbike back by early next week. Had visited the Courtneys. Courtney had been in Mr Newton’s office and asks if she had heard of him. Thought her father would know of his name.

Busy day of odd jobs for him as orderly officer. Had been late for 6.15 am parade as his servant hand’t called him and he been reported by the brigade adjunct but been leaniently treated by the O.C.

The horses were constantly being groomed, fed and watered. His hand was cold from the last stint in the rain so was writing more crooked than normal.

Had heard from David who referred to ‘bad news or absence of news’ about Geoffrey Young. Was feeling anxious about him.
There would be an announcement about his second pip in the Gazette.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 13 1916'

Had missed a day at the observation post as he was nursing a bad ankle which was being very troublesome. Had been in the map room and on the guns. Had used a beam laid across a trench as a horizontal bar and used it for exercise and felt much fitter.

Expects she will be glad to get back to Westbrook. Hadn’t received the cakes yet and hopes they were properly packed. Had been reading Old Mortality and his respect for Walter Scott increased with acquaintance. Felt they had come a long way on since his day and there were plenty of bad passages which no recent writer would be guilty of.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Magdalen Camp Hospital, Winchester.

Thanks her for her letter, the book, and the letter from David. Had been feeling demoralised and spent his time reading a book by Galsworthy which was 'poor stuff'. He likes the design of her new dress and asks about the colour suggesting dark green. Was glad his kit had turned up at last and asks if his field glasses came alright. Comments on the state of the war in France and the area around Passchendaele and the state of support for different parties within Germany. His foot is still the same as yesterday.

Along the margin of the second page he writes 'David tells me he is going to leave Will because Muirhead Bone according to a previous unfulfilled arrangement is going to live with him. Bad luck isn't it - he'll be sorry. Great love to you dearest. Your loving Ruth'

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 13 1916'

Had heard from Hugh Wilson’s mother on the anniversary of his death with two photos and notice from Rugby School. His brother Stewart had been injured. Also had a letter from Mr Hoenni.

Would be busy at the battery tomorrow. They were having an idle time and describes a walk he had taken. Seemed to be getting on slowly now and he didn’t feel so happy about the was as the enemy seemed stronger again on their front.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received a bundle of letters from her which had made him very happy. Comments on news about the losses in the naval battle [Jutland]. Life was uncomfortable there mainly because of the cold and the rain.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Thursday July 13'

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

Somewhat of a gap I’m afraid. I’m doing a spell in the O. P. [observation post]. I came up here on Tuesday evening – a lonely flat hill top with a wide view of bare rolling valley country intersected by the white lines of trenches and broken here and there by little woods. For companions two signallers Scotsmen. For comfort a bed of rabbit wire in a wet clay hole, a pipe, & a saucepan to brew my excellent French coffee over the Tommy’s cooker. The Hun is not much in evidence though I saw about 60 passing in small groups along a distant road – that was between 5 & 7 am. Now at 11 o’clock I have just finished registering one of our guns on a distant windmill. I enjoyed doing that; the gun did the unexpected & Lithgow was in a state of great incredulity owing to my large corrections for line – but I scored heavily by getting a hit with the last shot. The variable powered telescope which I have been using is an ingenious instrument & I had quite a good view of the windmill though its about 8,500 yards from here, & the holes in its well battered sides give me a queer mixture of pain & satisfaction.

I was rather depressed last night, a field gunner who visited this spot yesterday was telling me some unpleasant tales of what he had seen in the trenches. The pity of it all! Sometimes I have to think very hard about the Hun’s misdeeds to make up my mind to it. If the settlement of this business was in the hands of the German rank & file & our own I believe they would say at once let’s chuck it & not be such damned fools, any longer. It’s so hard to feel. I have horrid doubts too about our offensive with no particular reason. I do hope it is doing all it was expected to. Of course it’s a common place to observe that this is the great crisis of the war – but what a crisis!

What will be the fresh mental attitude of the German people when they are faced with something very unlike victory? And if they should resolve to fight to the last?

I hope I may have a letter from you today my dear one; the last reached me on Monday. In it you tell me about your visit to London. I am very glad you saw Mrs Reade. I am sure she is one of the best of women. You told her that I like the life out here & she was surprised by that. I wonder what she understood by it. It’s not a style of existence I particularly care about & I would never choose the soldier’s profession. Probably campaigning is more tolerable than the artificial peace time interest of the barracks – the hot-bed espirit de corps & diverse forms of puss blind eyewash. But No; I wouldn’t choose the life for its own sake even as I find it at its best out here. Like the life? I prefer to say that I like living; to be in a state of mind that won’t say so much is to be defeated & the most degrading condition of that defeat is boredom, it’s most usual companion ‘self pity’. No! I’m not bored & I don’t intend to be, nor have I the faintest degree of pity for myself who have so much more to be grateful for than the great dignity of men, though I believe I am capable of feeling some for the world at large – the world at war. It all comes, my dear Ruth, to what Hamlet says ‘There’s nothing good or evil in the world but thinking makes it so’ – in this sense, - that living is fashioned by Thought out of Circumstances & to fashion it well or ill is in the thinker’s choice. Far be it from me to say that it’s always easy to think life good.

The reflection that disgusts me most at this moment - & you’ll observe that it’s of universal application – is that we poor mortals are made of clay. Even so I’m sufficiently optimistic to entertain a healthy conviction that it wasn’t wet clay – my thoughts about that substance are too obscene to communicate, and so far as I recollect it was never stated that we are to return to clay. To dust – I am resigned to that thought because I shall spread so plentifully. To return to clay would indeed be a sort of immorality: but not one that I ambish – not if it were wet.

I am here for three days & this is the second. Truly I thank God that he held his beautiful hand yesterday & has wet me with only a cool shower or so this morning. A signaller sits by my side & we keep our eyes open. There are only two spots where one can hope to see the enemy in person; we watch them periodically – he more than I just now while I am so busy philosophising to you. Neither side seems active today – or I should have more to do – reporting enemy fire etc. Provided God is kind in the way I have indicated I quite like to be here for a change – its such a relief to get away from one’s companions isn’t it? I really quite half feel this but I don’t think it comes of misanthropy only that people interrupt thought so grievously.

I shall have done with this letter now. The signallers are relieved at 1.30, so I hope they’ll be in time to catch the dispatch rider before he starts at 2.0. I shall try & get a few letters or rather notes written to various neglected friends before I leave here tomorrow. This solitude suits the task. I do like to be alone.

Why do I talk about solitude when I have two companions? Because they haven’t the right of interruption – the first of the sight on man which makes the idea of liberty a Utopian dream.

Bless you dear Ruth. What’s the good of all this gas when I can’t kiss you. Please try to feel kisses & write & tell me what like it feels.
I notice that I never say that I want the time to come when …. perhaps I’m too proud; though you often speak of it. Perhaps because I almost feel that things taken for granted are communicated without speech even at this distance.

I understand from the papers that letters are not to be stopped so I’m happy to think that you’ll be receiving budgets from me.

Fare thee well beloved,

Your loving George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the train to Cambridge, Friday

He was on the train ½ hr from Hitchin where he would change for Cambridge. He had taken part in a whist drive which had been a great amusement. He had the opportunity to inspect a remarkable collection of women, and a few less men, commenting on the stupidity, utter banality, and depth of spiritual emptiness of middle class provincial England. He was pleased to win first prize of a hundred cigarettes.

He had enjoyed Wensleydale very much and had tried to take a photograph of it to show her as he thought they should go back there together. He describes the countryside, colours, buildings and views.

[He changes onto the Cambridge line and continues the letter]. He expected to feel like a stranger in Cambridge as it would have changed and be unfamiliar but Benson [his former tutor and the Master of Magdalene College, 1915-1925] and Gaselee would be there.

He had sent a pile of dirty clothes from Pately Bridge and asks her to have them washed. He would write again from Cambridge.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Asks if she wants a holiday with him on his way home. Makes suggestions as to where they could meet, when, and how they would pay for it. Outlines an idea to return with Nyima (one of the porters) who would live with them as a servant. He had fallen ill with sore glands and throat and Bullock had to continue the reconnaisance without him but was unsuccesful. Morshead joined him in camp and as he felt better they joined Bullock.

Detailed Summary
Says he has two projects to discuss. First is whether she would like a holiday with him on his way home. Suggests meeting in Rome or Marseilles, and perhaps touring Provence and walking with rucksacks to Bordeaux. Or they could go to Tours, Chartres or Paris. Then suggests the two could meet in Gibraltar and tour Spain together and take a ship back from Lisbon. Then mentions the Riviera and staying with the Busey’s or would she enjoy Italy more. Asks her to make the plans and says his dates are quite uncertain.

He hopes to get to Darjeeling by 1 October but says there may be delays. He wants to spend two-three weeks in India. She should come supplied with information as he would know nothing about the trains in Europe. If they go to Spain or Italy she must be responsible for the language. Makes suggestions as to who she should contact to make arrangements. Wants to spend some of their £500 War Savings Certificate on giving her a really lovely holiday. Discusses the logistics of train tickets and advises her to consider the relative prices in different countries. She must telegraph him via Bullock in Darjeeling to let him know in what town he should meet her. Gives more detailed instructions and discusses the clothing he may need. He will wire her the date of his departure from India and the name of the ship so she can find out the date of his arrival.

The second project is his idea to bring back one of the expedition porters as a servant. He describes the hypothetical scenario at length detailing the duties in the house he would undertake and asking how he would fit in with the other servants. He suggests Nimya [Nyima] a boy of about 18 who had a perfect temperament and was one of the most helpful people he had ever seen. Details potential wages, dietary requirements, transportation costs. He would have to come for at least two years and then probably return to India. Wonders if he would be happy and whether the other servants would like him. Describes his appearance.

[Letter continues later] - Says he has become ill at a critical moment after a two day trek with sore glands and throat and it wasn’t worth the risk of going up the valley as he must save himself for the big attack. Bullock had gone on alone and sent a chit reporting that the valley didn’t lead to the north col, but ended in a col between two peaks 23,800 and 23,400 N.N.E. of Everest. He was cheered by the arrival of Morshead.

14 August - Feeling better so he went with Morshead up the same valley as Bullock which was very interesting. He planned to camp and reconnoitre. He and Morshead were out for 8 hrs and he had gone to bed as soon as they came back and was no worse. He was tremendously excited as the day after tomorrow they may have their line of attack fixed and if they did it would be a very good one because they would be able to get a very long way without camping on ice.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Kampa Dzong

Full Transcript

My dearest one,

As I sit in my tent writing I have at my side a pot of grease into which I occasionally dip a finger & then rub a little onto the sorer parts of my face. The wind & sun between them have fairly caught us all these last three days. Norton says that he was accused by his people after the last expedition of having acquired a permanent dint in his nose & he is determined to prevent the same thing happening again – but how to do it? Personally I limit my desire in that direction to keeping my nose the same size as usual; I don’t like to feel it swollen with sunburn. Somervell who started with a complexion tanned by the Indian suns, is now exactly the colour of a chestnut, and, as he greases freely, no less shiny. Beetham so far has the best beard, but then he had a start as he didn’t shave after Kalimpong & I’m inclined to back Geoffrey Bruce against him in the long run, as his will be blacker. The face with greatest number of flaky excrescences and cervasses is undoubtedly that of Hazard, & the underlying colour in his case is vermilion.

In my last letter I told you how well I was. But I have not been altogether well since then – something wrong with my tummy – a slight colitis or something of the kind. Consequently I have felt very feeble & as I am strictly dieted have little to sustain me beyond biscuits & jam. We shall have two clear days here and I shall have time to get better, & in fact I am already much better & haven’t the least doubt I shall be perfectly strong again when we are on the move once more.

Though we have almost exactly followed our tracks of 1922 from Phari to Kampa, it has been a very different journey – not only different companions & incidents, but a rather different Tibet. The second march from Phari landed us ½ a mile beyond the Blizzard Camp of ’22; we had no blizzard this time but neither had we the bright high lights of Tibet. Chomulhari, a mountain which impresses one more each time one sees it, was veiled at first in thin grey mist & then apparently caught it properly from the North; we were continually threatened at the other side of the great Tuna Plain & had a nasty wind in our faces, but escaped worse. I can’t tell you how much I am interested by the weather – it’s so difficult to make out what causes it or what the signs may mean or how it is to be compared with what we experienced in ’21 & ’22. This day I’m talking of was more like a day during the monsoon; in the evening smoky grey clouds were clinging to the hillsides as though the air were laden with moisture; & yet all the weather reports from India have shown a deficiency of moisture in Bengal. One of the novelties this year is our mess tent, Norton’s special child. It goes on in advance on a mule so as to be ready for us when we arrive – at least that is the idea; on the night I’m speaking of some of us were the first to arrive in camp & set to work pitching our ample green marquee. The first procedure is to lay down a string in the chosen spot marking the perimeter of the pegs; a placed is marked on this string against which each peg has to be driven in – driving pegs into stony ground at these altitudes makes one puff; the floor a large sheet of green canvas is placed in the correct position with the line of pegs & upon this the tent is hoisted. I must say it is a great success. It has perpendicular sides about 4 ft high below the slant of the roof & consequently there is ample headroom. The floor dimensions I should guess at 18’ x 9’. The mess waiters have plenty of room to pass behind us. The tables which are none of your gim-crack canvas-topped X pattern or other, but pukka wooden tables, with three-ply wooden tops & screw in legs, are 2’ 6” square made to fold into half that size & are arranged in series down the middle of the tent - & then cunningest device of all, there is a piece to go round the pole in the centre & fitting on to two half tables so that no gap is left. We have no tablecloths, as it was thought that our tables duly wiped would prove a cleaner way.

On the night of the second march from Phari (i.e. April 8) having pitched our tent we lay about in it waiting the arrival of (1) the cooks (2) the yaks. The former whose business it is to go on ahead & have a meal ready if possible or as soon as may be had lost themselves on this occasion. The yaks are in very poor condition & go even slower than I remember; the men with them (about 300 beasts) were too few so that loading up was very slow (2 to 3 hrs) in the morning, & one could hardly expect the bulk of the animals at the end of a long march before nightfall. So there we sat or rather lay out of the wind in our green tent chatting – chaffing until gradually one by one nearly everyone had a snooze; & as they lay there snoozing with faces rendered ghastly by the green light they looked like a collection of corpses.

The night of the 8th was decidedly chilly, the wind got up from an unexpected direction & blew violently into our tents; the minimum temperature was 4°. I should have told you however that before we turned in we were cheered by a clear view of Chomulhari. The point of Chomulhari is the way it dominates the plain. The view of it from Dochen reproduced in The Reconnaissance gives you some idea of what I mean; but coming across this way to Kampa Dzong we don’t go so far north & the further you go from the mountain the more its great wall of rock presents itself as the barrier of the world in which you are. Goodbye to Chomlhari – I should like to have a whack at him one of these days.

The march of the 9th corresponded with that of 1922 except that we stopped about 4 miles short of our last time’s camp; but it was a bitter journey; the wind blew in our faces all day often very strongly & terribly cold, & the sky was white or overcast & the sun had no warmth. And I had a bad tummy; I walked almost the whole way to keep warm; & it was very tiring work under those conditions. We camped in a good spot looking up nullah to Pau Hunri. The wind died down in the evening; the stars were bright & the temperature fell to 2° below zero. Beetham was up 15 times in the night.

The 10th was supposed to be a short march & a comparatively short day. The yak men had had enough of it on the previous day & consequently we made a very late start 10.45 I think. It was supposed that if we didn’t stop in last time’s camp 4 or 5 miles further on we should be able to stop 3 miles further on again. However no water was met with for another 10 miles. We went on & on over the wide plain sloping upwards; in the distance at last we saw a little cloud of smoke & a little later some flash of bright green near it – the smoke was from our cook’s fire & the green spot was our mess tent, which we reached towards sundown; & then turning to look back towards the east I saw the black battalions of yaks still a long way off & beyond them in the distance once more across the plain, nearly 40 miles away the great wall of Chomolhari, appearing as though the spurs of Pau Hunri which we had crossed with so much labour had no existence.

A beautiful camp this one with a velvet sided hill to the south of us & to the north a long line of hills near at hand, while the sunny side of Chomiomo appeared through a gap; & a good night not so cold.

On the 11th to Kampa; a pleasant & easy march with much looking at snow mountains, Chomiomo and Kanchenjunga principally. Everest was not clear as we came down to Kampa though we could make out where it was.

April 14. Yesterday we had the news that the General is not coming on. The possibility had been in the back of our minds since Yatung. We are all very sorry for him naturally. It is difficult to size up in a moment how much difference his absence will make. I don’t think the difficulties of travelling through Tibet will be considerably increased. The General’s influence with the porters must go for something; but Norton thinks that Geoffrey Bruce with his more direct contact with a personal knowledge of them counts for more. I expect myself the porters will work as well this year as in 1922. Still we’ve lost a force, & we shall miss him in the mess, and also his absence from the Base Camp will be inconvenient.

Meanwhile Norton takes command & we couldn’t have a better commander, he will do it much better than I could have done had I been in his place if only because he can talk the lingo freely. He has appointed me second in command in his place & also leader of the climbers altogether. I’m bound to say I feel some little satisfaction in the latter position.

I’ve been very busy these last two days formulating a plan of attack to be discussed as a commentary on Norton’s plan & we have just been having a general pow wow about the two schemes. I don’t know whether I told you anything about this before. Roughly N [Norton] proposes (a) 2 without oxygen establish Camp V at 26,500 & sleep there. Next day they go on & get as near as possible to the summit partly by way of reconnaissance, partly by way of taking the chance if it exists of getting to the top. (b) The day they go on a party of 3 with oxygen come up to V & are there to receive the first 2 & themselves go on next day.

The valuable points in this scheme are (1) that the oxygen party should not this way be let down by their load failing to arrive at V (2) that one attempt supports the other. The weakness & I think fatal weakness is that you spend 2 men making an attempt without the best chances of success, the best chance gasless being with 2 camps above Chang La; from the point of view of making the best possible gasless attempt supposing the 1st gas attempt fails two men have been wasted.

My adaptation therefore supposes;-
(a) Day 1 two with gas establish camp at 26,500. Next morning (1) if they feel strong & it is windless they start for the top.
(2) otherwise they wait & melt snow.
(b) 2 with gas come up to V on the second day. If (1) they support 1st party & if they have failed themselves make an attempt next day. If (2) all 4 go on together next day, in two parties of 2, an ideal mountaineering arrangement.
This leaves 4 men unimpaired for gasless VI camp attempt. Or this last may come first.

We had a very useful & amicable discussion of various points arising from these two plans & hope to get something settled by Tinkye.

Please don’t circulate this exposé of plans though of course you may tell climbing friends in confidence.

We are on the eve of resuming our march. The worst news is about Beetham who has not yet properly recovered from dysentery & is a very weak man. It is not yet decided whether we shall send him down to Lachen tomorrow. If he comes on & gets bad & Somervell (in the absence of Hingston with Bruce) has to take him back we shall have lost two of the best & be left without a medical officer, a very serious position. B [Beetham] is just on the turn; but even if he is going to get better up here it might pay better to send him down at once with a fair prospect of his rejoining us at the B. C. [Base Camp] about May 8 to 10.

This letter is full of news & very impersonal. Now about myself. I was able to feel definitely this morning that my trouble has passed. The tenderness in my gut is no longer sensitive, like an old bruise rather. I feel strong & full of energy & myself & I haven’t the least doubt I shall remain fit. I shall take every care to do so.

The warm pleasant days here have done us all good.

I’m happy & find myself harbouring thoughts of love & sympathy for my companions. With Norton of course I shall work in complete harmony; he is really one of the best. I read little what with Hindustani words & Sherpa names to learn, but I have occasional hours with Keats’ letters or the Spirit of Man which give perhaps more pleasure here than at home.

I have had no mail since I last wrote. If the English mail had been sent off as soon as it reached Phari we should have received it b now; but the arrangement is for the runner to come through & return so as to fit the out mail to England (a very bad arrangement on the surface) & consequently we shan’t get our letters before we get to Tinkye.

I’ve written to no-one but you this time. Please so what you can – at all events write to my people.

Dearest I wanted you very much to comfort me when I wasn’t well & I want you very much now to be happy with (not that I have been depressed).

Many many kisses to you & the children.
Ever your loving,
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Hoped the birth would be easier for her than last time and that it would be over soon.

His main job for the day was to attend to the men’s meals. There were 14 men to a table and food was divided onto plates for them before they bagan to eat which worked to bring some dignity and restraint. Thought the Germans would be more gluttonous and the French much dirtier. The food was excellent. For beakfast they had a kipper, a large ration of bread, butter, a small ration of marmalade and a great bowl of tea. Dinner was a beefsteak pie and rice pudding and custard. Supplies were abundant particularly of vegetables. Only 2 out of 500 men complained of small helpings. Describes the system for washing up.

Had visited the ‘Bear’ [William Fearon] who was quite glad to see him. His wife was deaf so it was a difficult call but they got on well enough. Went to buy some braces as he had left his at Westbrook. Bought an expensive and very beautiful pair of gloves.

The Rusian news was absorbing his interest. The army was divided but he couldn’t believe they would get to civil war – or not more than one brief action. If they did it would be the most deliberate political suicide recorded in history.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 12 1916'

Was sorry she was finding life dull. Thought Aldebrough would have been more exciting if he had been with them.

It was a quiet soft September day but he thought the lull was ominous. Had a desperate time getting provisions for the canteen in Corbie. Had written a long letter to Robert Graves. Describes fellow officers Dunbar and Carey.

Had bought a mouse trap and a rat trap for his dug out which was successful and had lent them to the Officer’s cook house and six rats had been caught in an hour. Had asked Lithgow to send to Corbie for more traps for the men to use in their dugouts as they had suffered with them crawling over them and eating their clothes. They were also suffering from lice.

Was sorry she was feeling depressed. Was looking forward to a time when they could meet. Thought he would look younger to her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 12 1916'

Describes visit to Amiens with Lithgow and his character and tastes which were very different to his own. After lunch Lithgow had gone for a hot bath and he had gone to see about the prices of vegetables in the market taking Mantle (the driver) and Ramsay (the Captain’s servant) with him. Had gone o his own to look for bookshops and curios but was unsuccessful. Only able to buy a dirty cravat for the embroidery and the new Larousse dictionary of soldiers slang. Lithgow wanted to buy fresh fruit for the men. Bought a black lobster and two baskets of figs.

Comments on the news in her letters about a disagreement with Violet, her conversation with Ursula about old age, and sends his congratulations to Marjorie [Ruth’s sister] on her new job.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had hardly got back from Geoffrey’s C.C.S. when Trafford arrived and carried him off to stay with him at an aerodrome south of Cambrai. Was delighted to see Trafford who was in tremendous form - happy, gay and full of life. He gave the impression of success. He affected magnificence running about in a splendid Crossley car giving orders like Alexander the Great or Lord Northcliffe or Rockefeller. He enjoyed every detail of a successful action and had a wonderful forward looking conviction and was untroubled by doubts or reflective inconveniences. Didn’t have the air of one who had been through a time of anxiety or felt the burden of responsibility. His success was evident from the engagements and liaisons he had with the big wigs in the Flying Corps and Tank Corps and even the G.O.C. RAF himself.

He was to have stayed overnight but Trafford had been summoned to confer with a General at the Tank Corps.

Last night they celebrated peace in Cambrai at the Officers’ Club. It was a good evening, the kind one would expect from the public school type of British Officer - much hilarity and no drunkenness. The prevalent feeling was the elation that comes after a hard game or race of supreme importance won after a struggle in which everyone had expended himself to the last ounce. He was inundated by waves of untroubled joy which he hadn’t known since war began. He doubted if he had realised before what a load they were carrying about constantly.

Wondered if Fletcher had applied for his release and how soon he would see her again. They would have a wonderful life together and what a wonderful thing they must make of such a gift. He wanted to loose all harshness of jagged nerves and above all be gentle.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received three lovely letters from her including one in which she talks about their views on religion. One of letters must have gone astray as he found out she had recovered before he knew that she was ill.

He hadn’t been surprised by the armistice once he had heard the result of the Versailles conference. Hoped there wouldn’t be anarchy in Germany. There was no indication of it merely a bloodless revolution they could heartily welcome. Any attempt at a coup by the wealthy would be disastrous but he didn’t think it was much to be feared. The end of the war, so far, had been perfect.

The Daily Mail was still talking about peace traps and political camouflage. Was this amazing blindness or wilful folly? Had she seen Carson’s speech about Lord Northcliffe? It pleased him very much.

Was surprised and delighted to hear her father was progressing so well and he might be walking again soon.
Was interested to hear about Clutton Brock’s book. If he might send him a copy then she should wait before buying one.
He had received The Alpine Journal, three pamphlets from the Civic Arts Association and a New Europe. The A.C. looked dull, except his article.

She asked if it was too early to start teaching Clare about God. He thought it was but didn’t know when they should start.

When he had met Geoffrey they had talked and talked. Geoffrey had been in close contact with Cosmo Gordon for the past 2 years. They had met when Gordon had been in the operating theatre near to Geoffrey’s location and had asked to se him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 12 1916'

Had been busy since Lithgow had gone on special leave. Had been up to the observation post and as it was too misty to observe had worked with two signallers to make a proper place for the F.O.O. [Forward Observation Officer]. Had gone to the village to meet a working party sent by Bell. The village was much less damaged and so more interesting than other villages in the area. Had waited in the growing moonlight watching the infantry coming and going but his party hadn’t turned up.

Car was out of action so had gone with Casey in the motor lorry to collect stores for the canteen which took a long time. Had two letters from her, one from Raymond and one from Harold Porter. Raymond regretted not being able to go over the top with the Guards Division on the 15th. Hoped to see him if he got leave next month. Only thing holding up regular leave was a lack of transport.

Interested in her account of Johnstone and was disappointed he hadn’t turned out more attractive. Robert wouldn’t tend to increase his modesty.

Not to send butter regularly as they could get it there. Asks if she had received any rent from the Greens as he had heard nothing since they had been at New Romney.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 40th Siege Battery, B.E.F. France

She could clap her hands for the present and sing songs because as far as he could tell his fate was a good one. He had feared being sent to a trench mortar battery in the worst part of the line and the thought of telling her and making her anxious had been horrible. It had occurred to him for the first time that married men were out there month after month but she would be spared the worry those wives endured. He had been posted to a siege battery, not the biggest guns but big enough and in quite good general condition as to safety, a quiet place and a good deal of protection and a first rate lot of men. He was living in a cottage for the present with a 2nd Lieutenant as his companion, just the sort of man one wanted. He was brought round by Captain Lithgow and found him reading music and playing the flute. More than half the men in the battery were Scotch including the Captain. Might be busy that evening giving support to the Infantry in the trenches. Hoped he would be in charge of a gun in a few days time.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on the train on paper with a ‘Rock Island Lines’ letterhead

He was on his way to Iowa City which was the furthest west he would go. He had received her letter with the best news about Arthur. He was sorry she was having bad luck with the car.

He was sitting in an observation car which was at the end of the train with large windows. Since leaving Chicago it had become more snowy as Chicago had a milder climate than the east due to Lake Michigan. Describes passing through outlying factories and that they had just crossed the Mississippi or Missouri at Davenport which was a very impressive river.

He was amused to read the letter from Miss Marjorie Holmes which Ruth had sent to him.

His ship home would dock in Plymouth and he makes suggestions about where they could meet.

He was disappointed at not being able to lecture in Chicago. The Geographic Society had offered $200 but Keedick had refused as a school not far from Massachusetts had paid $250. The trouble all along had been a bitter fight between Keedick, who thought his lectures were the best and were worth a certain amount, and various bodies who wanted to pay less.

[letter continues, Chicago Tuesday evening the 13th] – a dull show at Iowa and then he had missed his train to Toronto so would arrive at 4.30pm rather than 8.30am. He had eaten a cheap but good dinner in a cafeteria and was going to find a movie show as he hadn’t seen one in that country yet.

He had been very bad about writing home and didn’t know why writing letters had proved so impossible out there. Writing in the train was slow work and was hardly worth trying. He also had endless notes to write about engagements.

He was looking forward to seeing her and spending Spring with her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 12 1917'

He was now over with the left half of the battery – north of the river once more. Was in an agreeable place in a deep little valley. Unfortunately, the wood had been utterly destroyed. Spring had arrived and the last of the mud was over. It was so warm he had had to take his coat off.

He liked being with the left half again. The Officer quarters were not much to boast off and the mess wasn’t water tight but they didn’t expect to be there for long. He was alone with Dunbar at present. Johnson was at the observation post and due back tonight. He had read some poetry to Dunbar from The Golden Treasury and he had liked Shelly but didn’t care much for Keats.

The air was full of hopes again as it had been before 1 July [1916] and he describes his views on the current state of the war.

Asks how she was managing the War Loan and their bank accounts and asks if she can see if the dividends are being paid regularly.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 2nd Advanced Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
1st Advanced Base Camp had become a dump for stores. He was strong but Bullock was tired. They had taken photos and cut steps. It was cold, ground hard and stoves didn't work very well. Lists food eaten.

Detailed Summary
They had been having a rather hard time with bad weather and nothing done in the way of reconnaissance and 1st Advanced Base Camp had become a dump for stores. They had had a late start that day and misjudged the crossing of a glacier, which gave the porters practice cutting steps but cost more time and cloud coverage spoiled their views of the W.N.W. cwm. They would try again early tomorrow if it was fine.

He was still going strong but Bullock was tired. Hoped Bullock would get properly fit before long. Their specially adapted high-climbing Primus stoves were useless and they would have to adapt at higher camps. They were at nearly 19,000 ft, the nights were cold and the ground was like iron but the views of the peaks to the west of Everest were glorious. They were currently on a good shelf above the N. [North] bank and had taken photographs in the clearing light last evening.

They planned to start on the way to Tingri the next morning. His first night at 2nd Advanced Camp was miserable with only two Mummery tents and no cook to look after them. He had been struggling with the Primus stoves and a substance called Kampite but they had excellent tinned food, listing Davies Oxford Sausages, sliced bacon, porridge, potatoes. They again had their cook, who in spite of his dirty hands, was rather a treasure.

Next morning he planned to take a selected 4 porters and the sirdar [sardar]. The ground was hard to sleep on but he made himself comfortable enough with his bed socks. Sometimes he was appalled by the mere length of the undertaking and wished it could be shorter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from New York [no letterhead on 3 lined pages, but last page is on ‘Waldorf-Astoria, New York’ letterheaded paper]

Brief Summary
Describes his day to day activities – social engagements, an interview with the press, attending the American Alpine Club dinner, drinking gin during Prohibition and his impressions of New York.

Detailed Summary
[1 Feb] – Expresses sympathy that the family wanted everything to be done for them and she had no Vi to help and couldn’t go out freely in the evening and be gay. She must be lonely and he was lonely too at times.

He was sitting in a small restaurant having dinner. Life had been pretty full since he had returned to New York last Monday. He had dined with the Watlens on Monday evening. He had been woken early on Tuesday morning by the noises of 5th Avenue even though he was on the 12th floor. He mostly ate breakfast in the hotel and spend the morning preparing his speech or paying business calls. Before his speech there was music played by some very talented Russians. He spoke for about 20 mins and thought they were satisfied though not enthusiastic.

[Continues later] – He had visited the Oppenheimers [she was a relation of Aunt Jessie’s] and they had been to a revue which was appalling and his ear drums were split.

He had been interviewed by a young man who collected news for the press and was connected with the hotel. Then had a chance meeting with Tom Pym, head of Cambridge House in London and an old Cambridge friend. After dinner he went to the University Club, where he was a temporary member, to look at some of the new books and the Manchester Guardian Weekly.

On Wednesday morning he intended to work on his speech but had been interrupted by telephone calls and one or two letters. He had spoken to Mr Carson for over an hour. He was a ‘curious shrivelled respectable disillusioned observant journalistic person’. He had lunched with Dr Pierce and friends and then been taken to the Presbyterian hospital where they tested his lungs, finding out that his vital capacity was 2 x normal.

[2 Feb] – He had been for tea with Mrs Wheeler, a theatrical lady. At a dinner at the American Alpine Club he sat next to a parson who was keen to impart information but was without interest in anything he [Mallory] had to say. On the other side of him was a lady who had climbed a peak in Alaska and endured a temperature of -60 degrees and whose intelligence had remained frozen even since.

In his speech the parson had read three passages from the Everest book of 1921. He discussed the problem of climbing Mount Everest and afterwards sat at a round table and was bombarded with questions.

They drank nothing but water [due to Prohibition] but afterwards he went with an Alpine Club man to the swellest of N.Y. clubs. They went down to the old wine cellar which was lined with lockers and retrieved a bottle of gin from one of them. The barman mixed three long drinks known as ‘Tom Collins’.

On Thursday he had gone downtown to meet George Walton and another man called Hubbard at the Corn Exchange. They had gone to Hubbard’s club for lunch at the top of one of the highest buildings in N.Y. They went up in the express lift to floor 35 and then slowly up to 40.

He had then met Mrs Cobden Sanderson for tea. Then was busy with arrangements until Poel came to see him. Poel was an old friend from Cambridge days, the nephew of William Poel, who helped to start their Marlowe Society at Cambridge. Poel gave him a ticket for Hamlet, in which he played the ghost.

His lectures in Philadelphia had gone well and he had enjoyed it. Lists upcoming lectures. He had been to see manuscripts of Boswell’s letters to Temple in Pierpont Morgan’s Library.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Paris

Had just got in from a concert which had gone on for a long time. He had made friends with a group of young French people but was rather desolate when they had to part. Had been to a sermon in an interesting church. He fell in with a Frenchman on the way to the theatre and they kept company for the evening. Was annoyed at first that it wasn’t The Barber of Seville but Rossini’s opera-comique but it very closely followed the dialogue and the music was charming. Was feeling rather hungry as eating in restaurants was very expensive.

Monday morning - had spent the evening eating with pleasant companions in a cheap restaurant. He always made the first advances as the Parisians didn’t expect him to speak French and they didn’t speak English. His fluency was increasing. Was going to enquire about trains at the Gard du Nord and then go back to the Bibliotèque Nationale.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 12 1916'

He was exceptionally busy. Glen was due to have an operation and Bell was away for four days rest. They had three new officers and Lithgow was unwell with a slight chill. Describes the new officers.

Rest cure was where two detachments at a time go off to spend four days in a delightful country place. His turn was next. He had designs on Amiens Cathedral.

Asks if she was still intending to visit the East Coast. If so asks her to choose a place well armed with anti Zepp guns. He was very please about the fall of Georgia and it made the Austrian situation worse because more men would be needed to defend that front.

Likes the flowers in his dug-out and asks if she could make him some pot pouri.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pateley Bridge

Hopes she wasn’t disappointed by the scrap he wrote that morning [see MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/12]. The more he thinks about Mildred’s engagement the better hopes he has and thinks that a few years difference in age shouldn’t matter [Ruth’s sister Mildred married Robert Morgan].

He was enchanted by his visit to Fountains Abbey which stirred his imagination and made him ask questions about the daily life of the monks and wish he were a poet. He took twelve photos and his camera had lain unused in his rucksack whilst he was in Wales. He had been talking with a French girl who was a teacher in a girls’ school in Scarborough and was waiting for a permit to cross to friends in Ireland. She absolutely refused to believe that he was married. He might go to Bolton Abbey or Wensleydale and Jervaulx Abbey the following day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Had planned shortcut but went further south by mistake. Very cold and tired. Warm start next day but then a bitter wind. All felt affects of marching at altitude. Next camp was 3-4 miles from Ta Tsang, warmer night. Warmer next day, bathed in a stream. Country was beautiful. Been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Hair cut very short. Describes what he was wearing.

Detailed Summary
Too much repetition of experiences. Real difference was that it was earlier in the season than the previous year. Planned to take a short cut involving four marches instead of six with 100 animals, while 20 yaks and donkeys took the longer journey but this depended on the grazing available. Morshead had gone to fix the gaming ground. About 5 miles from Phari they diverged from last year’s course and mistakenly went further south. It was bitterly cold but they following the transport to some place the mule-men knew of. Halted in the afternoon with many of the men demoralised. Just about got the tents up to provide some shelter for those who had been knocked out by cold and fatigue. Some sort of a meal was produced before they turned in. He went to look at the animals standing in untidy rows with the snow lying on their backs. The mule-men were squatting round in a circle behind some sort of shelter cheerful and contented. A little later he heard the jangling of animals bells and saw through the tent door some bullocks which had started late, following a figure in his Tibetan garment hitched up round the waist and red Tibetan boots.

They had a cheerful start. He preferred riding mules over ponies. He was the only one to have secured a mule at Phari and they had mostly been ridden by the men servants and Gurkha orderlies. He had brought a saddle and bridle and his beast was shared among four of them, though it was too cold to ride unless he was nearly exhausted. On the second march, they halted at a pass for a mild tiffin. The sun was warm and they were out of the wind. Coming onto another desolate plane the wind caught them. It was a more trying march than any of last year’s although they did very well under the circumstances. Norton organised a hot meal and he had shared an 80 lb tent with Strutt and Morshead. The march had been too long for this stage in proceedings. May not feel the altitude when they were doing nothing but they had all felt it on the march of 22 miles between 16,000 and 17,000 ft. The effect on him was stupidity and his head was invaded by a slight headache and a dull torpor.

The camp was in an attractive spot 3 or 4 miles from Ta Tsang [town] where they had camped the previous year. They had to rest so had a whole day of idleness. The night was warmer. The temperature had been down to zero the night before.

The next 20 miles did not seem too long and Kampa Dzong seemed to have a milder climate but the west wind had been strong and quite cold. The yaks were expected to arrive and then they would be off again following the old stages.

His letter was not a very cheerful account. They had a warm day and he enjoyed bathing before breakfast in the little stream. The country was often beautiful, more beautiful than last year. Believed there was more moisture in the atmosphere and more colour in the landscape. The view from the dzong [fort] above the camp of the two arms of the plain stretched away to the snow mountains [the Gyanka Range - Everest beyond was not visible]. Made him feel that Tibet after all was somehow friendly.

Had been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Morshead’s servant, who accompanied him again this year cut his hair with clippers so he had very little left.

Had been writing the letter in the mess tent for the sake of a high chair and a table for his ink pot. Describes the clothes he was wearing - silk and wool underclothes, a flannel shirt, a sleeved waistcoat, my lambskin coat, a Burberry coat overall – below plus fours and two pairs of stockings under sheepskin boots. He was just sufficiently warm except in the fingertips which touch the paper.

Postscript: He was still very fit in spite of fresh cold at Phari.