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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Chiblung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I don’t know whether you will easily find this place on the map. We have come north from Tinkye, avoiding unpleasant customers at Chushar and Gyanka Nampa & this valley is divided from that in which Rongkon lies by a low range of hills - we are encamped just at the corner of the Chiblung Chu; Sanko Ri & the ridge where Somervell & I climbed in 1922 is our view to the west.

Today – at last – an English mail has reached us. I have had a very nice long letter from you and also a picture of the children enclosed with the photos from my American friend Schwab illustrating his expedition to Mt Clemenceau (did you notice the one of Mt Farrar & Mt Mallory?). I’m very glad to have the children’s picture, but you don’t send one of yourself naughty girl. Nor do you send me any cuttings this mail, nor the Nation which I hoped you would be sending – though really European affairs are so far away & news is so old that I’ve not much enthusiasm about them. Karma Paul who brought our mail also brought news of the General, whom he left in Phari; he must be pretty ill still as he was unable to walk and was to be carried down to Chumbi; Hingston will accompany him to Ganktok & should rejoin us at the B.C. [Base Camp] about the middle of May. Meanwhile Beetham gets on slowly & can’t be said to have got rid of dysentery yet let alone picking up after it - however I think he’s on the mend.

I heard from Mary today with news of the weather in Colombo & it looks as if the earliest breath of the monsoon is a fortnight early! But that doesn’t necessarily mean much. The bad sign is the weather here which is distinctly more unsettled than in ’22 & these last two nights have been unhealthily warm. Today we have been in a regular storm area though no rain or snow has actually fallen here.

April 24 at Shekar Dzong.

I’ve left it rather late to go on with this letter – that is partly because one way or another I have been spending a good many spare moments on the elaboration of our plans. The difficult work of allotting tasks to men has now been done – N [Norton]& I consulted & he made a general announcement after dinner 2 days ago. The question as to which of the first two parties should be led by Somervell & which by me was decided on two grounds (1) on the assumption that the oxygen party would be less exhausted & be in the position of helping the other it seemed best that I should use oxygen & be responsible for the descent (2) it seemed more likely on his last year’s performance that Somervell would recover after a gasless attempt to be useful again later. It was obvious that either Irvine or Odell should come with me in the first gas party. Odell is in charge of the gas, but Irvine has been the engineer at work on the apparatus – what was provided was full of leaks & faults & he has practically invented a new instrument using up only a few of the old parts & cutting out much that was useless & likely to cause trouble; moreover the remaining parties had to be considered and it wouldn’t do to make Irvine the partner of Geoffrey Bruce as they would lack mountaineering experience; & so Irvine will come with me. He will be an extraordinarily stout companion, very capable with the gas & with cooking apparatus; the only doubt is to what extent his lack of mountaineering experience will be a handicap; I hope the ground will be sufficiently easy.

Norton if he is fit enough will go with Somervell or, if he seems clearly a better goer at the moment, Hazard. Beetham is counted out, though he’s getting fitter. Odell & Geoffrey Bruce will have the important task of fixing Camp V at 25,500.

The whole difficulty of fitting people in so that they take a part in the assault according to their desire or ambition is so great that I can’t feel distressed about the part that falls to me. The gasless party has the better adventure, and as it has always been my pet plan to climb the mountain gasless with two camps above the Chang La it is naturally a bit disappointing that I shall be with the other party. Still the conquest of the mountain is the great thing & the whole plan is mine & my part will be a sufficiently interesting one & will give me perhaps the best chance of all of getting to the top. It is almost unthinkable with this plan that I shan’t get to the top; I can’t see myself coming down defeated. And I have very good hopes that the gasless party will get up; I want all 4 of us to get there, & I believe it can be done. We shall be starting by moonlight if the morning is calm & should have the mountain climbed if we’re lucky before the wind is dangerous.

This evening 4 of us have been testing the oxygen apparatus, and comparing the new arrangements with the old. Irvine has managed to save weight, 4 or 5 lbs, besides making a much more certain as well as more convenient instrument. I was glad to find I could easily carry it up the hill even without using the gas, & better of course with it. On steep ground where one has to climb more or less the load is a great handicap & at this elevation a man is better without it. The weight is about 30 lbs, rather less. There is nothing in front of one’s body to hinder climbing & the general impression I have is that it is a perfectly manageable load. My plan will be to carry as little as possible, go fast & rush the summit. Finch & Bruce tried carrying too many cylinders.

I’m still very fit & happy. Tibet is giving us many beautiful moments. With these abnormal weather conditions it is much warmer than in ’22 & the whole journey is more comfortable. It is nice having one’s own poney – mine is a nice beast to ride, but he’s not in good condition, & today has had a nasty attack of colic; however he’ll have a long holiday to come soon & I hope he’ll fatten up & arrive fit & well in Darjeeling were I shall sell him. Only 4 marches, starting tomorrow morning to the Rongbuk monastery! We’re getting very near now. On May 3 four of us will leave the Base Camp & begin the upward trek & on May 17 or thereabouts we should reach the summit. I’m eager for the great event to begin.

Now dearest I must say Good Night to you & turn into my cosy sleeping bag, where I shall have a clean nose sheet tonight, one of the two you made to fix with patent fasteners. Considering how much grease my face requires & gets that device has been very useful.

Great love to you always.

The telegram announcing our success if we succeed will precede this letter I suppose; but it will mention no names. How you will hope that I was one of the conquerors. And I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Ever your loving
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Acknowledges receipt of pears and apples and approves of the cake box which they reused to pack cups for the move. Thanks her for the prunes but says he can buy them in Corbie [struck through]. Was pleased with the potpourri and will give some to Earl whose battery is close by.

Started his new dugout but didn’t have time to cover it. Thought they were to have fine weather but it started raining in the night and he had slept in the Mess room [includes a plan]. Rain had washed mud down the stairs and it was disgusting. They were be able to settle in if they have some dry days.

Discusses German food shortages and whether Romania can hold on.

Bell had been awarded the Military Cross.

20 Oct - a very bright day and cold east wind with a perceptible frost.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes the musical life in camp with men performing on the piano, banjo and singing.

The was even less to do on a wet day than a fine one. He had written bravely to Geoffrey [Young] who’s address he got from his father who said he was ‘going on well’.

Had received bad news from his mother about Avie’s John [i.e. his brother in law] who had had three heart attacks recently and was thin and weak. Avie’s former doctor had joined up and was stationed there although not in their mess. He was going o go round and see him and believed he was a charming man.

His train had been delayed on the journey back the previous night. It had started raining heavily as he got on his bike, and the lamp blew out. As he was taking the short corner into camp too, too fast because his brakes were inadequate, a violent gust took him and in almost pitch darkness he suffered a severe side slide.

Had received a letter from Geoffrey Keynes with a postscript from his wife Margaret who sent Ruth her congratulations. She was expecting a baby too. He wouldn’t be able to see them as they had settled in Sussex rather than Hampshire.

Had been thinking of getting Jelli for a concert at Charterhouse.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 19 1916'

It was extraordinarily quiet with hardly a gun firing. It had been raining and he was afraid the bad weather had stopped their push. All the land they had established was no better thana bog and very slippery. Much worse than on July 1st. There wasn’t a square inch for 2000 yards unaffected by shell fire and not a blade of grass to be seen.

Comments on the account of her journey in her letter.

The Major of another battery had been a guest at dinner. He was thrilled to hear it was [Austin] Earl’s battery and hoped to see him today.
Planned to write to his tailor and order a new pair of breeches and a tunic.

[Postscript] – had received her letters and photos of Clare which he liked very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had written asking him to take advantage of an Army Council order and return to Charterhouse. Had agreed to the application being made as soon as the Armistice was declared as he was keen to return as soon as possible. Asks her to tell the O'Malleys about it [they were tenants at the Holt] so they could find alternative accommodation.

Thanks her for the flour and advises about what cakes she should send out and at what intervals.

Likes the photo of her and Berry. Refers to comments she made in her last letter in which she said he made different appearances in her mind and that he thought they weren't all very agreeable. Asks whether he appears as a domestic tyrant irritable and unkind. Says things will be different when they are living together again and that she need not have any fears for the future.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

His stay had come to a sudden end as Trafford had been called away to take command in the absence of the Colonel.

Had a good solitary walk and played football on the previous day and his ankle held up. In the evening they went to Amiens to dine. Had an amusing evening and got the Mayor of Amiens to sing two songs. The waitresses as well as themselves sang and they toasted until after 10pm and he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

The unstrafed country was pleasant and he wished the battery would move back to the place they first stayed in after landing in Calais. The constraint of unmitigated shellholes and barbed wire was deadening to ones faculties.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 19 1916'

He wouldn’t get away until the Captain got back as Bell was going home and then would probably get command of a Siege Battery. This was very good for him and he was glad for that reason but he was feeling much depressed as Bell was the only one he wanted to talk to. If he was left with Lithgow he would probably go off his head.

He wouldn’t write a proper letter as it would be too gloomy. They had a thaw which was no good for observation. He had to go to the tapping station in case he was needed. Four hours of standing doing absolutely nothing but with a very nice party of signallers so he didn’t mind. It was impossible to get warm. Was hoping for a letter from her but the post was uncertain again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

To show her what life was like he would describe two scenes. Scene I 12.30am to 1.30am – Noise of several hooters and the great bell clanging. Hurried figures moving in the street or standing at the doors of houses all wearing a mask with goggles. The gun numbers hasten to the gun carrying a large parcel on their tummies from which a snake seems to leap up to their mouths. All stand around for an hour imagining they see gas in the air. Then when its been established gas has not come their way they all troop back to bed.

Scene II – long grass and the breeze of early summer rustling the trees. Two men in the middle of a garden space looking at the sky through field glasses for hostile aeroplanes. A figure lying in a camp armchair idly reading a novel and another by him on the grass. Occasionally look skyward too.

He was sitting out now towards dinner time. Occasionally could hear a field gun going off but chiefly could hear the soft whizz of shells. Only 10 mins since their band had stopped – trombone, melodion, penny whistle, tambourine (very homemade) and Bell on the flute.

There were many idle moments but next week he would be on duty and his responsibilities would be greater. His stomach was out of sorts possibly caused by a stew and he couldn’t eat.

She is not to be alarmed when he talks about gas as the respirators were very efficient and not too bad to wear and they were far enough away to have plenty of warning. He is afraid the poor fellows in the trenches must get caught sometimes.

Sends his love to all at Birkenhead.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from The Waldorf-Astoria, New York [letterhead]

His agent, Keedick, had met him from the boat and taken him to the hotel. He had arranged a few lecture dates but was waiting to see how it caught on. He had been to see a melodrama at the Broadhurst Theatre which was where he was due to give lectures on 4 and 11 February. He had been interviewed by 4 pressmen and they had gone away happy. Had a long talk with a young man who circulated to the press information about the hotel’s distinguished visitors. The young man had told him of a self made industrial magnate who had said education was a waste of time and they tried to set up an animated discussion by getting him [Mallory] to say all the mountaineers on the expedition were men of science or that mental training had more to do with the matter than physique. He thought this was very childish and that Americans were boyish.

Describes the architecture of the buildings, the skyscrapers, his admiration of the Public Library on 5th Avenue, and the streets at night.

It had been nice to be in the theatre where he was to lecture. The acting had been slow and the audience very simple. He would have to change his style of lecturing but thought he would be able to get hold of them.

His social engagements were not very satisfactory but realised he had few introductions and hoped people who had promised to write to friends had done so.

The prices were astonishing - 7d for 3 bits of toast at breakfast and 1s for an orange.

He had found Mr Murray’s address as he wanted to get his book on Boswell published in America.

In a postscript he says he is enclosing an American advertisement, he describes his room and where he is sitting, and tells her to keep this letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Thanks her for sending the mittens, towels and calling cards.

After working hours they had a long meal in the evening for which they made a rule for sociability. He liked his companions very well.

Yesterday an old acquaintance turned up – his first tutor in college at Winchester. They were all to be examined at the end and he would be happy to come half way down. Most of the tests so far had been physical and despite his weak right side he had done fairly well. Today they had loaded against time. He was one of two that had to lift the shells and put them in the breech. It wasn’t easy to load quickly and neatly with a 100lb weight. They had also had lectures in the drill hall and there was a certain amount of standing around which the men found trying.

He had written to Miss Whittaker to make arrangements for her [Ruth] to pay 30s a week and have a trial week or fortnight.
He had learned by heart a list of what the nine at the gun and 4 others have to carry as hand props. It was an incredible number with such words to describe the equipment.

Sends his love to all at Westbrook.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was sorry she was cold staying with the Tallents but it would make her wear her fur coat. Wonders if she attracted more attention when she wore it. He had arranged a private room close to the mess and the prospect of being able to retire to solitude was a wonderful alleviation. She musn’t think of him being depressed at Xmas as they would have a very merry day in the battery.

Hoped to see Robert soon if he could find him in Dunkirk. was sorry she hadn’t see Robert and that Nancy wasn’t more forthcoming.Robert was a good person but his great fault was to value applause more than merit. That might be too hard but he did like publicity far too much.

He had ordered a pair of spectacles. Had been having headaches for the last two days and had hardly read anything which was depressing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Sends his Christmas wishes for her and describes the new room he has moved into a short distance from the mess. He would be able to spend a great deal of time there except for occasional duties as orderly officer and a French class he was going to start for a few of the men.

Morning - the bed was comfortable. He was busy writing Xmas letters and would write to Mary and Mary Ann. He was annoyed they had rushed them out of the Holt but it wasn’t their fault. He thought it was Fletcher’s fault as he should have found out that demobilisation would be taken out of the hands of the War Office as soon as the armistace was signed and so applied for his release before the armistace and then let him refuse if the war had continued. He should have let them know at once that the arrangements had fallen through.

Was glad she was getting on well about servants. £35 sounded a lot for wages but supposed paying extra was worth it for good servants. Hadn’t heard if he had secured the purchase of the painting in Paris. What would she do about labour for the garden at the Holt? It might take 9 months to get demobilised but might not take that long.

Had two photos of her and Clare on his mantlepiece. Sends his love to her father, Mildred and Marjorie, the Lawrence Turners and the Haves Turners.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Nearing Port Said’

Brief Summary
Describes the weather and motion of the sea. He had been sight seeing in Malta. Some uncertainty about end of voyage as there would be a delay in arriving at Calcutta. Due to arrive in Port Said the following day.

Detailed Summary
He had been very busy since they left Malta and the weather had been wet, muggy and windy. There had been a good deal of motion and quite a big sea the day before but he had not been seasick. There was something disturbing and restless about the motion of the sea which made it very difficult to concentrate on anything, it affected his head and produced a kind of dullness that made it impossible to write. Malta was a great joy, but he had been so busy seeing things he did not get newspapers or postcards and it was beyond him to describe Malta without the postcards as it had a very complicated harbour. There were several battleships in the harbour. Describes what he did during his four hours on shore including a visit to the church of St. John [the Knights of Malta] and seeing a very fine collection of armour at the Governors Palace.

He had completed one green rucksack and was happy about his equipment. Asks her to convey his welcome to the Holt and to their friends the Hodges who were visiting her. Asks her to return Hodge’s compass which he didn't need and would be sorry if it got lost. Asks her to send a copy of Robert Bridges Spirit of Man to V. J. Hamilton.

There was some uncertainty about the end of his voyage as the ship would have to stay at Madras unloading heavy cargo, delaying his arrival in Calcutta. Had written to Younghusband and Raeburn asking what he should do in Darjeeling. They were due to arrive in Port Said early the next day but he wouldn't receive her letter. He would try and send a postcard but it was unlikely as the mail steamer was short of coal. He thougth about her alot and had her photo in the book he was reading. He had received a jolly note from Rupert Thompson [a friend from the Pen y Pass climbing parties] and would write him a line of thanks.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 19 1917'

Had been reading the six letters that had arrived from her and discusses the news in them mainly about friendships and their daughter Clare.

He had shared the dug out with an infantry man who had got very wet and was shivering. They messed together all day but the infantry man had to stay another 24 hours. The infantry had to endure bad times and had a much worse time of it. Showed the Colonel around and he had been praised for his work liaising with the infantry. The Colonel said he would tell the General. Wood was returning and Dunbar was going on a course. A treat that he had refused.

He had received a letter from Lieutenant Bonneau [whom he had met when he was liaison officer with the French] and it was settled they would stay with him and his wife in Paris after the war and then they would visit them.

Yesterday he wore a thick vest, two flannel shirts, a woolly waistcoat, a thin tunic and a mackintosh and was moderately warm.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’17 Carlyle Rd, Cambridge’

Brief Summary
George left America after this lecture tour in March 1923. This letter is written in October to Ruth ahead of their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would receive news of George’s death 8 moths later.

Most of this letter concerns plans for moving into Herschel House, including logistics and decorating and furniture choices. The end of the letter is about plans for another expedition to Mount Everest in 1924.

Detailed Summary
They could get into Herschel House on Monday 29th after he had been to a Climbers Club Committee meeting. He had arranged for furniture from the Holt to be cleared on the Saturday morning. Wondered if he should be there for the packing but doubts if it was worthwhile. If he went by car he could take a few plants if there were any she hadn’t already taken.

They would have to wait to make decisions about getting more paper from Jeffries’ for the hall etc.

He had seen Uncle Lawrence and arranged not to have the mantlepiece at present. He had the address of a firm who supplied Dutch blue tiles but he wanted the address of the firm her father had recommended.

He would make out a list of plants he wanted for her guidance and asks if she will inform Westbrook when they would want the stuff from there.

The sale at Herschel House would be on Tuesday 30th in a tent in the garden but there was so little it wouldn’t interfere with their moving in but wondered if they should go to the Elliot’s until it was over. There would be a good new bed in the sale and thought her bargain with Marby [Ruth’s sister Marjorie] wasn’t a good one as it would mean an extra mattress but he would leave it to her.

He would write to Alex Turner to ask their advice about what fixtures they could take from the Holt such as electric light fittings and curtain rods.

They would wait to decide about curtains although he inclined to the new zig zag stuff for the study.

Sealing wax paint couldn’t be used. Could they do a design in a simple colour, white or yellow or umber on the doors and some simple affair on the staircase? He was veering toward brown stain again. As they weren’t going to spend money on the drawing room mantlepiece they could spend more on the staircase.

[Letter continues later] – he had a very tiring drive back last night with a lot of mist. The committee meeting had been long but good. Farrar wouldn’t turn up as he was angry about turning down Finch. Bruce had been in a hotel in Switzerland where Finch had been and was asked whether it was he who was helping Finch to arrange the next expedition [to Mount Everest].

They had to contradict tales about a shortage of funds. Longstaff had heard of it and thought it was very wrong of Farrar as it wasn’t true. Had dinner with Longstaff. Hinks had written to Cranage about his going and he brought up the question with Longstaff although Hinks’ letter hadn’t turned up. He had not turned it down definitely, but he didn’t think they would hear of this going. It would be a big sacrifice for him either way.

It was wretched not being able to talk to her about. She must tell him if she couldn't bear the idea of him going again and that would settle it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

They were leaving their old comfortable quarters in the rain which was unlucky and unnecessary. Had eaten an early breakfast and were waiting for a lorry to take up their kit. Wasn’t sorry to be moving and would soon be comfortable again. Hoped for a better dugout.

Previous day he had started writing a poem and then Boal from 109 Battery came and spent the evening with them.

Yesterday he and Bell had a day out in Amiens buying potatoes. They were hard to find and they had to go to a cheap vegetable market in the old quarters. They gave a rather jolly woman a ride in their car from her house to a stall in the market which she enjoyed. He bought eggs and then went to a haberdashery so Bell could buy two garments for his little girls.

He enjoyed chatting with French people, who had a quick sense of humour and seemed good simple people. Was glad he was in charge of buying provisions. It helped that he could speak French so he got it cheaper and wasn’t cheated and he got to go on jaunts away from the battle. It was extraordinary how little was doing there now. No talk of leave and Lithgow and Bell would go first.

Had received two letters from her. Comments on the Northcliffe hero. Says its the regular Daily Mail nonsense but was surprised and disgusted The Times printed that sort of stuff. Wondered what America is going to do.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had wasted no time in applying for his early demolilisation [his occupation was schoolmaster]. He was staying with Trafford. He had a good place in a farm house about 6 or 7 miles from Doullens on the Arras road. It was a very comfortable camp and the countryside was quite unspoilt and rather attractive. He was interested in the army schemes for occupying itself pending demobilisation. Trafford’s Squadron were training as they would in England as if the war was continuing which was ridiculous but they had to be employed. He believed the Army had some educational scheme but he wondered who would organise and teach it.

Trafford had a good deal of the regular soldier about him. Wishes he showed a little more sympathy. Wonders what he will do in civilian life and what manner he would adopt.

The cold snap had ended and was agreeably warm. The window’s of the Officer’s Mess in the truck had been put in lettin gin light and air. He would get back the velvet curtains and maybe some others as they would go well in his study.

He hadn’t received a parcel since the one from Fortnum and Masons and they were short of flour again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 18 1917'

Had a splendid walk into P. which he thought must have been one of the most lovely towns in the world. The enemy had gone away and they wouldn’t see action again until they crossed the river.

Lithgow was as cheery and energetic as ever. They had joined up again with all seven officers in the mess together. Hoped the battery would stay together when they moved otherwise he would be with the left half with Glen, Dunbar, and Johnson.

He was back again in his deep dug-out with Wood and Hutchinson. Wood was much brighter and quite talkative. He was a northerner and quite enterprising and amiable but not interesting.

The pursuit was very slow and they would probably be held up in front of St Quentin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'A Trench'

Had remembered it was his birthday. Had been brought up to a trench. First time he had been quite near the Germans and seen their trenches. Had a good view from an observation post. First shots very successful with three rounds fired and all hitting same spot. Germans had started sending shrapnel over so they had retired into the dug outs.

He had only got three hours sleep so wasn’t happy yesterday. They were registering targets but trouble was the noise of the trucks on the nearby road. Works were interfered with by shooting, the arrival of ammunition and the presence of the other half battery.

Asks her to send some back copies of The Times. Had just received letters from various people but no cakes. Says she ought to encourage Violet to take up war work if the Government require it but he would regret her departure.

Was feeling better after a good night’s sleep and things were calmer and happier. He was often in poetical mood. Would attempt to describe the Mess and various officers in his next letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Wednesday July 18' [Wed was actually the 19th]

They had had three days of idleness and bad weather and it was very depressing. Discusses the current situation in the battle and the hope they all had the Russians would win them the war. Had heard from his mother that Trafford would be going out almost at once. Had received the parcel of butter which was delicious. Had been sent to town to see the Field Cashier Comments on the state of the town.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Looking forward to seeing her on Thursday and suggested meeting at George the Confectioners at the continuation of Royal Terrace. Mrs Q was so nice he was feeling happy about her [Ruth]. He had written to his mother to see if she would come but doubted she would. Had lectures all day and no physical work. He thought the pain in his side was muscular. This afternoon’s lecture had been given in the gun shed with him laying on a coil of rope.

He had made friends with an architect and climber called Courtnay. He had received a cheery letter from Graves who was safe for the present and also a letter from Raymond who was not safe and he didn’t expect him to survive the war.

Postscript - asks her to bring some tea as the mess would be glad of some.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 18 1916'

He had arrived at the rest camp with half the battery. Describes walking in the valleys, finding the stream and being very happy. Would be even more happy if she were with him.

Lithgow was to arrive that day and he the camp Commandant of R.G.A. [the Royal Garrison Artillery] and he was to be his orderly officer. Hoped it wouldn’t affect his freedom.

[Continues later] – had been to lunch with the A.S.C. people [ammunition column] and met two Carthusians [former pupils of Charterhouse School where Mallory had been a school master]. Had received letter from her, Graves, Mr Allen, and his mother. Explains he can’t write full accounts in his letters because of the censors. He had missed Robert’s name in the casualty lists. He was disappointed in his poems and wished he hadn’t published them as it would have been better for his reputation to wait.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Amiens Cathedral, France, 'Aug 19 1916'

Describes Amiens Cathedral.

Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Anchor Line, T.M.S. California [Letterhead], March

Full Transcript

My Dearest Ruth,

It is Saturday and early on Wednesday morning we shall be in Bombay, so the voyage is nearing its end. I had a scheme of writing you a little each day, but though I have thought of you often I have written little [struck through] nothing. The fact is that the days after all turn out to be too short. As you may imagine my first idea has been to keep fit. It is never very easy in the hot weather, and though it was cool enough until we were in the Canal it has been hot since then – not remarkably hot, but limp-hot. For two days going down the Red Sea we had a following wind; there was no air on the ship and our cabin with the afternoon soon became insufferable. One night I tried to sleep on deck, with two pillows and two deck chairs to help me, but though it was pleasant enough lying under the stars, too exciting perhaps I got no sleep and in the early morning retired to the cabin. But the nights have been bearable except for that one and the great way to be fit is to perspire freely both before breakfast and again in the evening before dinner. With Beetham and Irvine I do a good deal of throwing and catching the medicine ball and that proves the best way of all. Occasionally I run, ten times round the deck, which is about a mile. Anyway activities of this sort cut into the time between tea and dinner; after dinner when I don’t play Bridge (ie. about every other night) I don’t find I get much done of anything serious and one is hot and stuffy and after dinnerish. However I have a done a good whack at Hindustani at which I hope to be very much more efficient this time. I have read a little history; I have written the article for Blackie and Son and I have studied the oxygen apparatus and gone through lists of stores and invoices so as to get to know exactly what we have that we shall want from the Base Camp on and have my own list in a notebook. The one serious omission is crampons – nothing but the old-fashioned heavy kind; it is very disappointing; I made a great point of that with the equipment people. It means we shall have to cut steps up the final slope I suppose. The oxygen apparatus is going to be awkward to carry and particularly to cut steps when wearing it will be difficult. I have spent some time too going into the question of organising high camps; but it is difficult to come to any conclusions at present and I think very likely our plan should be to have a stray reconnaissance using oxygen from the North Col to decide the heights of different places suggested and also how many people could sleep there. The point of using oxygen would be to preserve the strength of those making the reconnaissance. However this plan would be rather expensive of organisation, and I doubt whether we shall carry it out.

The ship has been much more agreeable since we unshipped our cargo of Scotch tourists at Port Said. There is room now on board and one can find a corner and get away and be quiet if one wants to. We sit eight at a table of whom one is Irvine and it is quite an agreeable little crowd. I am always down and have finished breakfast before anyone else arrives unless it is Irvine and then seek solitude, so I hardly see anything of anybody before lunch. If people see one busy – and they have grown accustomed to see me busy – they don’t mercifully, disturb one. Even so it isn’t easy to get much done; if one sits in a wind papers blow about and if one sits out of it one is too hot. They are a nice lot of people quiet and dullish and unobjectionable. I fear I’m not seeming very sociable, but they have asked me to give a talk about our expedition and I have agreed to do that tomorrow night.

I’ve a sort of feeling that I’ve left all the difficult things to you. I do wonder how you’ll get on about selling the Holt and letting Herschel House, and building our new wall and dealing with the garden. I came to no agreement with you about paying bills while I am away – I think the best plan will be for you to pay none unless it seems urgently necessary; I think there can hardly be any to pay, unless it is the Army and Navy stores for port wine and any Everest things, e.g. Bodger’s and Beales can wait.
Don’t forget the wine cellar must be locked up if you let the house; and in the cellar is the over mantle for Mrs Lock.
I wonder where you will be when you get this. As your plans were vague I shall post to Herschel House; and it should get there about April 5 and may catch you. Your first letter to me should reach Bombay 2 days after us and so I should only have 2 days in Darjeeling to wait for it.

I haven’t said a word to you about my hip which was bothering me – you will have gathered that it is better, and it is indeed perfectly well and strong, so that I never think of it or notice it; in fact I am pretty fit altogether; my ankle and its behaviour in new boots are the only anxiety; but I have a comfortable old pair for marching and shoes besides so I should be all right.
I feel this to be a very dull letter. I hope you got my communications from Port Said all right, particularly 2 boxes of Turkish Delight addressed to all three children. I want to know about that because I had to get them despatched from a shop. And did I ask you to send photos of yourself and them? I do like to have them.

Monday – The end of the voyage begins to loom near. Thoughts of the journey across India and various details obtrude themselves. I shall begin packing today, because I don’t see exactly how I am to dispose of the heavy suit in which I came on board – you’ll remember that I haven’t much room left in the suitcases.

I find myself wanting to see India again and looking forward to the journey in spite of heat and dust. How dirty we shall be by the time we reach Calcutta!

The Indian Ocean has been remarkably smooth and lifeless, and rather grey as it always is – until today when it is all alive with a delicious breeze, and blue like the Mediterranean. We’ve seen nothing of interest but a school of dolphins which performed with a truly amazing joie de vivre.

It is curious that now I am in warm sunshine I must think of you in a summer frock – March 17 – perhaps it is snowing in Cambridge. England does look a little grim from the tropics at this time of year. But you’ll have an English spring and sunshine. I wonder if you will go to see Mill give them my love if you do – I do like the way they have settled down – they’ve done it very nicely, and they are nice happy people.

How I wish I had you with me; with so much leisure we should have enjoyed this time together; and I would have been able to give you so much more than I can give you in our daily life at home. Supposing that you instead of Hazard had been sharing my cabin and I could have peeped over in the morning from my perch and seen you lying below and we would have gone up into the bows together in our silk dressing gowns to breathe the fresh morning air and sat together here where now I am alone – dear girl we give up and miss a terrible lot by trying to do what is right; but we must see we don’t miss too much.

I shall write again before we leave Darjeeling, one day early next week so as to catch the next mail after this one, which will go out on Friday the 21st.

Great love to you, dearest one, and many, many kisses for the children.
Ever you loving
George

P.S. I’m sending a few stamps I bought off a man in the street in Port Said. If you know any small boy of our acquaintance, Bobby, or John, or Franz, will you send them on to one of them. Aunt Jessie will probably have them and anyway is old enough to know better.
G.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

The adjunct said he wouldn't be on church parade for the next two weekends but the course he was taking was due to go to a remote place called Lavington in Wiltshire. The Colonel had mentioned Friday 26th but he feared they would keep them there all weekend. After completing the course he would get 48 hours leave and then could put in for six days overseas leave before going out.

The canvas part of his bed had not come with his kit. Asks if it had come back to her and if so could she send it by parcel post.

Interesting lecture on gas shells. The Germans had great difficulty getting gas masks due to the shortage of rubber.

Hoping to get to Winton after tea to get the clutch adjusted on his motorbike.

[Continues later] - it was raining so couldn't face going to Winchester. Still doubtful if he would be home after the trip to Lavington but he didn't think it worth postponing the christening.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 17 1916'

He had heard nothing more about leave. The climbing boots had arrived and he had every hope that they would keep his feet warm. Cake and buns had also arrived. They would have the buns for tea when Austin Earl was due to come. He had arrived at lunch time but had only just had his breakfast.

They were doing little considering the dry weather. He had dug with the men for an hour and then spent the rest of the time in his dugout reading M. Chéradame's Pan-Germanisme - a very interesting part about the population of southern Serbia. He had wrapped his curtain round his knees as it made all the difference to his warmth. The supply of paraffin wasn’t unlimited so he couldn’t burn his stove day and night and he preferred to use it after dark. The mess room was not a warm place.

Charmier and Sheppard came in last evening but not to dinner. He liked Shepherd who came in talking about the Dardanelles and the coast of Asia Minor. Dunbar and Wood had also been to dinner to eat a brace of pheasants which came from the Captain’s shooting.

His turn on the observation post tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.