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Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Pleased with his photographs and hopes to make some money giving lectures on his return home. He had been unwell and stayed in camp when Bullock had gone on alone but was unable to find a way through the valley. Morshead had arrived and the next day he el better so they joined up with Bullock. Describes their clims, camps and troubles with rations. They were successful in finding the route to the North Col and therefore the route to the summit.

Detailed Summary
He was pleased with his photography efforts and printing which would make excellent slides for lectures. Asks her to keep the prints very carefully. He had written to Hinks suggesting he should give some lectures during the winter. He would let the Committee consider the financial arrangements. Asks her if she would like an American tour. They had received no English mail since 21 July [one month prior] and wonders if floods in Tibet had caused the delay. Says he was no longer in poor health and suspects he had tonsilitis.

Bullock had gone off alone reconnoitring and Morshead had arrived the same morning. He had received a chit from Bullock explaining that the valley would not lead to Everest. He spent the day in bed feeling weak, but the next morning was feeling much stronger. Describes his walk up the first valley to the left with Morshead. He didn’t expect to find a valley leading directly to the north col at the foot of the ridge they wanted to climb. He judged they might find a good way to Everest in that direction.

15 August - Continued trekking with Bullock, met the porters, brought down the tents, and took them a long way up the valley which he and Morshead had reconnoitred. There were complications in the march which caused delays and they ending up short of where he wanted to be with no view of their way. They had an uncomfortable camp perched on a stony hillside with snow falling persistently all evening.

16 August - They followed the ridge above them to the top of a small peak (20,500 ft) which was a 1,700 ft rise in an hour an a quarter. They had a good view point and had a clear hour for photography. They had vague hopes of reaching their objective which was a distant snow col in direct line with the north peak, but then had to descend nearly 1,000 ft and it was bad going over a big glacier. There was thick mist all round them and he felt very, tired with a nasty headache. As it was clearly hopeless they turned back. They reached camp late and it was snowing persistently but they knew where they wanted to go and how to get there.

17 August - A very hesitating move with much discussion of what they might and might not do. The rationing arrangement had broken down badly and they were short of food. He blamed it on the incompetence of the sirdar [sardar] at their base camp. They decided to go on next day with only one porter and sent the rest down to the camp below. They hoped to reach their snow col while the snow was still hard but it was a dim hope because they knew fresh snow had fallen and it was always difficult to estimate how much. They needed their snowshoes despite them being heavy on a long march and having to lift a considerable amount of snow on the snowshoe and it being worse for the leader than anyone following.

They reached the col where there were snow covered rocks above the icefall. It was not an agreeable way of passing time. For most of the time they were enveloped in a thin mist which obscured the view and made, one world of snow and sky.

Morshead, who knew the hottest heat of the plains in India, had said that he had never felt any heat so intolerable as this. They continued plodding on and needed a tremendous and continually conscious effort of the lungs. Up the steep final slopes he found it necessary to stop and breath as hard as he could for a short space in order to gain sufficient energy to push up a few more steps. Bullock and the porter had struggled on behind him and Morshead fell out near the top but re-joined them on the col. The clouds hid the peaks when they got there but the expedition had been a success. As they suspected there was a glacier running north from a cwm under the north east face of Everest. He wished it had been possible to follow it down and find out the secret of its exit. He describes the head of the glacier and that across it lay their way, across easy snow up the other side of the cwm where the approach to the north col, the long wished for goal, could not be difficult nor even long.

As they came down his thoughts were full of this prospect and this success. He didn't know when he had allowed himself so much enjoyment from a personal achievement. This success brought their reconnaissance to an end as they had found the way and they were now planning the attack.

These thoughts were needed during the hours that followed to stimulate the mind as it was the most dismal of processions. Morshead had been cooked going up to the col and later was in a state of collapse. The porters had all left their high camp, leaving three tents standing but they were cold and without provisions so they continued to the base. When daylight failed they missed their way and were compelled to make an arduous ascent up a steep rough hillside. A faint misty moonlight made it possible to step from boulder to boulder but Morshead was compelled to rest at frequent intervals. They continued until 2 am. He came in as fit and strong as ever after a long day in the hills and ate a hearty meal in my dry warm sleeping slack before lying down for untroubled sleep.

He organisation the camps and fuel supply before they went down to the expedition base at Kharta and waited on the weather while organising their push to the summit. He had been told that the monsoon should break at the end of the month and a fine spell should set in with September. [Bad weather ultimately delayed any progress for almost a month].

He was happy and full of the object in front of him although there were many times when his mind was full of her and home.

The expedition was short of candles and a little oil lamp constructed out of a vaseline pot was his light.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes the erection of the billiard table in the mess which cost £70 and was paid for by previous generations of officers.

Had been to Winchester to see Robin Garbutt and fix up the final arrangemets for borrowing his motobike who had put it in order and he was to start with a full supply of petrol and oil. He was to fetch it that evening from a garage in Winton and he was feeling a bit nervous. Planned to be off by 10am and with her by noon the following day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France and the letter from David Pye that was originally enclosed

Hadn’t received a letter from her or Mildred and he wished for one so he would know she was still getting better.

He had written a long letter to David to try and help him fall in love with Jelly and reassure him that she would make a wonderful wife. Wonders who told David that Jelly was in love with him and if indeed she was.

Had talked to two other Officers from 471 Siege Battery one of whom was returning to England for good and he was a school master so he was hopeful.

It was infernally cold but the wind had cleared the mist which was a blessing. Thought they would be left there for some time. The Major was making no effort to move as he feared their trucks would be taken away which would be a disaster.

Thought it would be a wonderful Xmas and he might write some lines to greet their friends and she could make some illuminated cards. He wonders what stage she is in her recovery.

[enclosed is a letter from David to George written on 12 November 1918]

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had a new job acting as foreman in construction work using bricks and mortar a mile from the German line. This was because the previous foreman was taking the place of a young lieutenant at Brigade Headquarters who was on leave for the next 10 days. He couldn’t tell her how dangerous it would be as he didn’t know but he didn’t think she should be too anxious. He was being frank with her as he said he would. He thought he would like the work and that it would be an adventure.

[Postscript] – he was glad H. V. R. approved of his pamphlet and asks her to collect any news about that.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Chevremont Darjeeling.

Brief Summary
Journey across India from Bombay to Calcutta and the Darjeeling. Norton in hospital. Plans to travel onward. Finch and Crawford to stay behind and wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Looking forward to seeing flowers in Sikkim.

Detailed Summary
Journey across India passed well enough. Describes the heat, dust, dry plains, and that about half the trees were green, either a sombre green or the brightest imaginable sort. There was much that was worth seeing but they were glad to get to Calcutta.

Their baggage weighed 2 ¼ tons plus a lot of personnel in the train and they paid over 600 rupees to Calcutta and 150 more for handling at Bombay. They were met in Calcutta by the A + N Stores agent who did everything for them. The stores and railway fares cost about £200 from Bombay to Darjeeling.

Norton was in hospital in Calcutta with bad piles after riding but it was not necessary to operate. Norton planned to go with them to join Strutt but he hoped that Norton would be persuaded to join them later.

They next travelled in a rail motor which was a much cleaner ride than the train. They got to near Darjeeling quicker than expected and met Bruce coming up the road in a car who made great cheer at seeing them. The country looked very different now to how he had left it being much browner due to the weather being particularly dry which he thought was a good thing for them.

Immense quantities of stores were on their way to or already at Phari. It was possible to save a march to Kalimpong, which was the second stage on the journey the year before, as they were going by a special train, a journey of 5 to 6 hrs to Kalimpong which they could do quite easily in a day.

After Kalimpong they planned to split into two parties. He would be in the first party going to Phari. Then an advance party of about 8 of them (himself, G. Bruce, Strutt, Longstaff, Wakefield, and Noel) would go onwards taking a limited amount of stores with them while the rest would follow gradually behind. Finch was staying with Crawford to bring the oxygen when it arrived [the cylinders hadn't yet reached Calcutta].

He was looking forward to seeing the earlier flowers in Sikkim [he was here about a month earlier in the year then he was in 1921] and details magnolias in full bloom. He compares the expedition leaders Howard-Bury (1921) and the current leader General Bruce and says he read the proofs of Howard-Bury’s chapters coming up from Calcutta which were worse than he had expected. Morshead would also be joining the expedition which he was very glad about [Mallory and Morshead were the only two returning from the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition].

Realises Ruth may be in Wales and sends his best wishes to the party.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 21 1917'

Evenings were spent discussing the situation over maps and intelligence reports. Yesterday from 10.30 to 7pm was spent in a prolonged reconnaissance with Lithgow and Glen which was a very pleasant excursion into the countryside. They were out of the action and would be for some days or perhaps weeks. They were taking the opportunity to smarten up the battery. Spent the morning drilling and instructing their sections. This afternoon they were to have a full dress parade, the first since he had joined the battery.

Had received a parcel of chocolate and plums from her both of which were excellent. Also some beautiful socks. He was short of medium socks, rather thinner than Mrs Steele’s because the two pairs of boots he mostly wore seemed to require thin socks, so he would be glad of three more pairs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday July 21' [Friday was actually the 22nd]

Night had been strenuous but day was peaceful so he had slept until noon ready for a long day in the trenches tomorrow.
Gives views on the Wings of a Dove by Henry James which he had almost finished reading. Discusses memories of Venice and wants to go back.

Comments on news in her letters. Had heard from Geoffrey Keynes who was in the area. Thought Raymond might be near too but Trafford was in the north.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters and a Xmas parcel. The last cake was on the point of disintegration and it might have been better to wait a day after cooking before sending it.

The general impression was that the labour folk were making a mess of demobilisation hence Geddes’ appointment. Saw in the paper that the demobilisation of all teachers and sudents had been ordered and so it might not be more than 2-3 months.

He was writing a song for Xmas day which was a parody of Widdicome Fair.

He was reading Studies in Christianity and liked the chapter on Christian love very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 21 1917'

Acknowledges parcels received. Had sent off his bank book to Cox's. Sets out what their income might be after the war and whether the government might tax capital. Thought life would be expensive and it would be a good plan to insure their children's education. Asks her to get papers from The University Life Assurance.

The right side were going to be joining them so they would be together again. He was busy with works on the mess. The General and Payne had been round with the Colonel and had said he had been told of his valuable help to the infantry recently.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Glad all was well with her. They had just spent 1 ½ hours doing a Muster call at which the name of every man was read out and he was cold after standing about.

He had gone to bed earlier than usual and adjusted his bed so it was more comfortable. As a result he was up early than usual and took a walk between breakfast and parade at 8.45 am.

Had to take some signallers over to be inspected at 4pm when he was hoping to go into Winchester.

Had a letter from Avie and there was some prospect of her house being settled with a good cook and a nursery governess. Hopes she will be able to get away soon. She was anxious about John. Polly thinks they will name the new baby Althea so there was one for the list but she had probably made up her mind already.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 20 1916'

Had received her letter with news she had been gardening at the Holt. Comments on the plants in the garden and agrees the Poplars will need to be lopped.

Quiet day in the map room. Ground must be heavy with mud after the rain and shell fire.

Austin Earl came to dinner. He was glad to see him. He wasn’t enjoying life in his battery which had to wrestle gigantic shells in a sea of mud and had almost nothing in the way of dug-outs. Earl was impressed by their comfort. Describes Earl’s character. Thought Thomson and Willett were hereabouts.

Circumstantial rumour that the Thiepval garrison of 4,000 had surrendered.

Had read an article in the Round Table of June about industrial organization which interested him. Had go the name of a book to read - The Ragged Troussered Philanthropists by one Tressall a house painter. Would be ordering the Centenary book about Shakespeare firstly for her, then him, and lastly their family although it did cost £50.

[writes along the margin on the first page] – by new arrangements observation post duty would only be one in every 10 days which was good news.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Benares, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He was delighted she was coming to meet him. He had just missed the English Mail at Darjeeling, and hoped to get the mail at Agra. Had been sightseeing and was suffering with a chill similar to the one he had in August but with rheumatic legs rather than a swollen gland and sore throat. His legs were quite painful most of yesterday and today he could barely walk. He was looking at silks in Benares and had hardly bought anything but he had one or two patterns for her to see.

He supposes the last letter she had received from him had been written from Kharta or Everest. He was travelling towards her pretty busily, and there was a lot to tell. He had hoped to have an account of their last days on Everest but it had worked out so badly that he didn't want to send it but would show her when they meet at Marseilles.

Had a very gay time for the few days he was in Darjeeling. Explains Poojah when everyone takes a holiday. Had been to a fancy dress ball and a garden party. Describes the hotel veranda he was sitting on and writing from calling it an enormous house which stands among its shade giving trees like a rajah’s palace in a park. The hotel lacked fans and electric light but was clean enough. He was lead to expect the journey would be intolerable but he had only one change after leaving the mountain railway and a carriage to himself for almost 32 hrs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had only just received letters from Mildred and learnt that she had been ill. It was horrible to think that she had been ill and he hadn’t known. She should be careful and recover.

He had received a letter from David in which he said that a mutal friend had told him that after observing her behaviour he believed Jelly was in love with him [David] and he wonders if he should try and fall in love with her. Wasn’t sure if this was correct or what to think about it but hoped they could pull it off.

Paris leave was open now but he didn’t think he would put in for it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 20 1916'

Was sorry for the gloomy note he wrote yesterday. The war was getting the better of him but he was getting his own back. The worse the weather the less they had to do but even that little was difficult to complete. He wished he had some fixed things at fixed times during the day but that was impossible. He would try and make a plan for the evenings. He would be less sociable once Bell had left which would make it easier to settle down to mental occupation. A lot of energy went into fighting the cold and discomfort.

Last night he was cheered by the appearance of Platnauer, George and Falconer. Had a good time playing Bridge and talking about books and art. He thinks he needs others to lift his spitis and it was feeble to be dependent on anything exterior.

Discusses the nature of his depression.

[Letter resumes shortly before tea time] - He had been digging and felt more of a man. He would like to be able to draw what he sees. He had acquired a quite special feeling about men digging. His diggers would be simple, solid folk like the sort that Jean-Francois Millet might have painted but his would be more in harmony with the soil.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Life was getting strenuous. Had been busy and was feeling happy about the work. The guns were shooting well. Anxious not to make any mistakes as he didn’t want to make things any less easy for the Infantry.

Thought he had written about the £250 cheque. Was amused to hear about Owen’s visit to Westbrook. She was having a much more sociable summer than the previous one. Was interested in her London visits and the Bridget and Stephen household. Asks if she has seen Will.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 20 Friday' [Friday was actually the 21st]

Describes the work he had to do the day before clearing and then occupying an enemy trench. Had walked to the front line but seen nothing by ruin and shell holes. Describes the German dug out they had taken. Describes his companion Glen’s physical appearance and character and the fact he was a great blessing for whom he felt quite an affection.

Not as optimistic about the situation as she was. Still at the stage of weakening the enemy.

Comments on the capital the press were making out of the war and that Lord Harmsworth had passed by and stopped to look at one of their guns firing but had missed him as he was drinking tea in a tent at the time.

Comments on her letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 20 1916'

Has been planning to start writing a book. Lithgow had sent him for some money for men going on special leave. Had been wonderful to be at the rest camp and they hadn’t yet been told when they would have to leave fears it would affect leave to return home which wouldn’t be before November at least.

He would leave the arrangements about money for her to work out with Mr Roxworthy. He would like some apples. He had received a ginger cake and a chocolate cake. Asks if she has heard where Willett and Thomson are. Had received a good letter from David Pye.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Suggests the possibility of Ruth living in a small village nearby so he could live with her. Had walked to the top of a hill and described seeing a natural amphitheatre which consoled him for the shock of finding himself in a military camp. Dinner on the first night was very solemn and he addressed one remark to each of his neighbours and men opposite but no one opened conversation with him and there was no general talk. Describes the previous night’s dinner which began badly but improved and his neighbour was ‘quite human and interested’ and it was a pleasant little party.

His bed wasn’t a brilliant success as the straw was so hard. The camp was well arranged and hospitable and he had a good hot bath before dinner last night.

He was planning on walking to Itchen Abbas for lunch at the Plough Inn, then walk up the river and back over the hills.

[letter continues later in pencil] – the Plough Inn didn’t have any food so he had gone to the Black Swan and had white bread and yellow butter (not the military variety) and there was raspberry jam and white sugar lumps.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters from her and was interested in all her London plans and sent his love to all the people she hoped to meet. Hoped she would get to see Doris [sister in law, married to Trafford Leigh-Mallory] as he wanted to know what was wrong.

Was pleased she was getting on so well with Montessori and that Clare liked the buttoning frame. She should exclude other sorts of toys now. Mrs Irvine would be an excellent person to work with. She had always been friendly. He wasn’t so sure about Mr Irvine but thought he must be a good chap and it made a great difference having congenial neighbours.

Thought there was a good chance of Germany accepting terms. The surrender of Austria and Turkey was very opportune.

Had spent an amusing day yesterday making the shelves for the curtain. There was a certain amount of fitting to be done but he had done a good job. He had fallen in love with the curtains and wondered if they could be used for their bedroom at the Holt.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Was awaiting his movement orders so his plans for the weekend were uncertain. Recounts more about his time at Winchester College the day before. Had received a letter from Hoenni telling him that he had proposed a duet with Jelli who wasn't in her class as a fiddler. The boots had arrived from Anderson's.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Had met a Carthusian called Chamier who had been a member of his old modern sixth and was a particularly nice boy.

Yesterday started in mist and rain and he had done drearily in the mud to a half way house (old German dugout) to wait on the weather.

When he got to the trench he expected it to be half full of liquid mud but the Infantry had cleared the wort of it. No shelling of them all day. Platnauer arrived just as he was turning in. They talked for a bit and then he asked him to dinner. Had celebrated Casey’s 21st birthday.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’.

He could hear General Bruce dictating his report on their progress in a loud voice while Morris took it down on a typewriter.

They had failed to establish the basecamp at the required point and were now at his old 2nd base camp just below the foot of the glacier. It was a very good place but three more camps would be necessary between there and the North Col whereas they had hoped to manage with two. However with the aid of some Tibetans and a few yaks they hoped to get what they wanted up to the East Rongbuk Stream during the next few days and to use this dump as a sleeping place for journeys up but not for journeys down. He thought that on the whole it was a satisfactory result and there would be great advantages in bringing back everyone for rest at this place rather than higher up.

He had been writing his diary notes for the last few days and would send them to her in the next mail. The differences in the frozen county now from his remembrances of it were 'most striking' and everyone was duly impressed by Everest. The weather was unsettled but he expected many perfect days before the monsoon set in. They would be warm in this camp and not too cold higher up. Everyone was well and cheerful.

He had to go and arrange stores to go up.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Approaching Colombo’

Brief Summary
Describes fellow passengers. Many on board had been ill. Describes the unquiet ocean. Recovered from a bad headache. They were approaching Colombo.

Detailed Summary
He had been thinking of her a great deal, particularly yesterday on the anniversary of their engagement. Wishes she had been on the voyage with him. He describes his fellow passengers including a ‘Black and Tan’ who worked in the Middle East, the Colonel and Mrs Frazer who were table companions, Mrs Vernon and two other ladies. There were also a number of unpleasant youths. Thought that the people in Second Class looked more interesting but there are obstacles preventing him making their acquaintance. Many on board, including the Captain, were ill but they were being cured with castor oil. He had mild symptoms and had been up in the night and had cut down on his consumption of food.

He had a sense of the nearness of disaster or danger as the sea was as deeply evil as it was attractive. The ocean was so calm at times so that you forgot the violence of which it was capable. He was interested in the contrast of the well behaved passengers on the boat and the ocean outside. It was a gloomy letter and he had not made much progress on his book Geoffrey. He was expecting it to be very hot at Colombo where they should arrive the next morning.

[letter continues later] - They were just reaching Colombo and he felt very cheerful after his splitting headache last night.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'May 2 1917'

He supposed he had been in the country for a year now. Holidays weren’t so frequent now as they used to be. It wouldn’t be so bad to get a month’s leave. Supposing he were to come home suddenly and walk into the orchard and find her lying under the trees. Or she could join him in the wood and see the flowers. Yesterday when of all days they should have been together he was condemned to sit all day in a trench and she was no doubt sewing in the nursery.

Life wasn’t very exciting, they were having a slack time and enjoying the sunshine. Dunbar’s absence had a soothing effect. He had finished Well’s book on the war which was very interesting but the end part on European civilisation was not very satisfactory to him and explains why giving his opinion on having religion without churches.

Thanks her for her parcel of sausages, potted meat and camp pie. Was amused to hear about Marjorie’s last place and interested in Clutton Brock’s views on the war. Thinks they need to put things right outside Germany by having self governing states in place of various oppressed members of the Austro Hungarian Empire, breaking down German power in Turkey and Bulgaria. If only they could go on until they could put matters straight but they could only go on until it was evident that they couldn’t.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory written from France

She was keeping up their correspondence better than him in the circumstances. He was still hoping every day for news of his release. Was trying to write his lecture [on civics] but it was too vast a subject. Was glad the Head Master had been to see her. He had heard from Allen who had no hopes for a speedy release and who said the Head Master showed no interest in the subject.

What plans did she have for moving into the Holt? Thinks he will need some bookcases. Had his case arrived from Paris?

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 2 1916' [it was actually written in 1917] after his return to France from leave

Comments on his recent time at home during his leave.

Had been assigned to look after a Colonel but said he wasn’t a valet. It was a cushy job, very quiet and safe not far from the batteries. He shared a dug out with Robinson, the acting adjutant. It leaked a bit but they had a fine oil stove. He would rather be alone but was happy enough.

They lived less under ground than in the battery. The office was a canvas hut, the mess room was a tunnel shaped chamber. There was a gay atmosphere, the doctor was ragged a good deal and officers from the batteries were entertained a good deal - Anderson from 109 had spent the previous evening with them.

Hopes his breeches will arrive soon as he could see himself tramping about observation posts as his knowledge of that work was his chief utility. The reconnaissance report he had written was being considered by Royal Artillery Headquarters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 2 1916'

The heat had been trying but he was getting used to it. He walked up with a ruck sack filled with a water bottle and it served to carry his coat. Expeditions reminded him of the Alps because of their adventurous nature, code of conduct and companions.

Germans had been fairly quiet. He had returned three nights ago. Trench was filthy. Refused to sleep in a deep dark hole so carved out a hole in the side of the trench and had reinforced it with wood. Trench was infested with rats. The area was dotted with white crosses and swarms of black beetles.

Mr Quinn, who had gone to another battery, had been severely wounded in the leg. Mr Glen had gone to hospital with gastritis but would soon return.

Discusses good news from Russia and the stiff fighting where they were.

Was glad Sidney Cockerell’s visit to Westbrook had gone well and that she had given him a copy of his pamphlet.

Describes countryside behind the lines and travelling to find the Field Cashier, calling in to look around a chateau on the way.

Acknowledges safe arrival of tea and prunes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Monday

Cottie’s party had arrived and he quite liked her husband. They had been to Tryfaen and climbed the Central Buttress, five on the rope - Bertie Graham was stiff and slow and Owen was quite active and promising. Cottie had been the greatest encumbrance to their progress as her muscles were feeble but she had lead a bit towards the top which was better. She would soon recover herself. His boots were a great success and he was feeling fit. Ursula [Nettleship] was expected to arrive that day and Hugh would leave the following day. He had bathed in the lake above the hotel that morning for the first time. He had been reading some interesting essays by Jane Harrison, one was about the prejudices faced by women and what their position ought to be.

Letter from George Mallory to Ruth from Yatung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

It seems I ought to get off a letter to you tomorrow morning in order to be certain of catching the mail. I don’t know that I have a very great deal to tell you. The great thing is that I have had your second letter & those from Clare & Berry. Dearest one I think it wonderful of you to settle down & be cheerful & enterprising and sociable. It must be difficult I know to start in with Cambridge life by yourself. You evidently managed to let Frances see something of life & she must have enjoyed herself; she kindly wrote me a note by this mail too. I am glad also to hear that Mr Blunt has not deserted as I rather feared he had done. It was good of him really to stay away when he felt that he couldn’t do much in the garden. I am sorry you have had such a cold March. I expect you will be very glad to enjoy some spring weather away from Cambridge.

All goes well with me. The march from Sedongchen to Gnathong [Gnatong] was glorious, Kanchenjunga & his neighbour appearing magnificently; I haven’t seen any distant mountain view before from this part & we counted ourselves very lucky. Gnathong [Gnatong] (12,500 ft) was not so cold this time, though the veranda was bunged up with snow, & from their [there] we made two easy stages here, stopping the night in a little rest house an hour down this side of Jelap La. Norton & I walked up to the pass (14,500 ft) together & were pleased to think that we felt fitter than last year. I certainly am feeling very fit now. I sleep long & well & can walk as fast as anyone.

We have had a few good signs of Spring – on the Sikkim side a most lovely little primula flourishing from 9,000 to 11,000 ft, with the habit of our English primrose only somewhat smaller & neater, and of a delicious crimson colour; and Rhododendron Falconeri, a big bright red fellow was flowering freely a bit lower. On this side we have another primula, denticulata, paler in colour & of the polyanthus type, very freely scattered over the meadows; & we have our old friend Daphne, I know not what species. The conifers too in this valley are all showing green.

It has been a wonderfully pleasant journey so far, with bright sun & pleasant conditions altogether. And it has been a very jolly company. We found the first contingent here no less happy than ourselves. The General (entrenous) has not been quite well & has stayed here today while Norton takes on the first party. The slack day here has been very pleasant. I have had a long ramble with Irvine.

I shall wish you Good Night & send this off brief as it is. Remember me to all my friends – but I forget you won’t be seeing them at present. I wonder where this letter will find you. It should reach you near about the 1st of May. Perhaps you have forgotten the significance of that date - will you think of me very specially on May 1 & may it be as good a day as it was in 1914.
Please thank Clare & Berry very much for their letters which I much enjoyed; & I liked the cards with flower pictures. It will be sometime yet before John can write me letters!

Now farewell dearest love. I waive you many kisses & see you smiling & happy & resolved so to be even during the month of May.

Ever your loving George.

I address this to Westbrook as I should like it to find you there & if you are with them will you please give my love to father Hugh & Marjorie; & in case you meet them remember me to Allen & Scott & the Fletchers. I shall be writing to Evelyn I hope. I am sorry for what you say about Alan, but a very young man’s view is generally exaggerated. I wish myself that A. would look tidier; I don’t know that it matters about his working provided he uses his mind somehow as he clearly does. My love to him when you see him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the Grand Hotel, Littlestone-on-Sea, Kent

He had left Weymouth and been allocated quarters in Lydd which was an empty house and he was kitless. He had finally got permission to travel on to Littlestone-on-Sea and he was glad of dinner at 9pm when he arrived.

It was only a 3 week course and Friday morning leave was a myth. He wouldn't finish until 12.30pm on Saturdays and would probably have evening work 5-6pm. He had to be at Lydd that morning. He would try New Romney for rooms which was 1 1/2 miles away. He would send her an address if he could but if she didn't hear from him she was to bike along and enquire.

He had been trying to find rooms for them and had talked to different landladies but he hadn't finalised anything yet. Wonders what Clare's weight was that week.