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Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He was concerned about where they would live mentioning two places that they had considered but were no longer possible. They would get a house somehow and he wanted her all to myself next holiday.

He had been back to Westbrook [Ruth’s family home which was close to Charterhouse] as they had left the hook behind [see: PP/GM/1/1/1914/13]. She was very much in the air and he had picked some flowers. He was due to dine at Brooke Hall with his guest Mr Becker [a former music master], and feared he would have to play Bridge.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Regrets that she did not receive his long letter sent on Saturday. He was glad she went on her walk. Compared her 10 hour climb to a 15 hour climb in the Alps.

Explained what he meant when he said she was true.

The following day would be busy as he would have to take another master’s English class and still had scholarship papers to mark.

He ought to go to Mary's wedding [his sister] but it could be difficult leaving school. There was bad news in relation to a prospective house and hoped something else would turn up.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Asks if she had received Sunday's letter [24 May] as well as Saturday’s letter [23 May]. Expected her letter to be in the humblest vein or even remorse that she had thought he could be anything but the most virtuous and punctual of correspondents.

Supposes it’s the walk that made her feel jiggish, skippish, skittish, spriggish, snappish and frolicsome and not his beautiful long letter which was the longest he'd ever written. The real worry about her being in Ireland was that it took so long to get an answer and they often seemed to have the same thoughts.

Discusses plans for meeting on Wednesday. He planned to go to Oxford for the weekend and asks her to send her letter to him on Saturday c/o F. Urquhart, Balliol College. He spent the afternoon with some boys at the Jenkinsons’ but could not play with them as he had a bad toe.

She shouldn't begin worrying about what she could or could not say to him.

The weather was changing and he was looking forward to visiting Oxford which was the most beautiful place of it’s kind. His mother was very keen for them both to visit. Wishes he had her help choosing Mary’s wedding present. Must attend a meeting at the Headmasters [Frank Fletcher] to elect the Junior Scholars.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had received a lovely long letter from her and was sorry she had hurt her hand and was not in very good health. He had a bad toe which caused him to limp. Discusses possible houses they could take and plans for the rooms asking if they were to have a piano. Arthur Benson had written to ask what he should give as a wedding present and asks what he should give as an answer - a Persian rug or a bath towel?

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Balliol College, Oxford [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had been in Oxford where the book shops were the best in the world. This would be the last letter before her journey to see him and he longed for Wednesday.

Letter to Ruth Turner [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

An affectionate letter looking forward to their meeting on Wednesday which filled him with delight.

Autograph letter in French, addressed from "130 Piccadilly, London", signed, to Jean-Sylvain Van de Weyer.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from 'Gnatong’

He had been stupefied by a cold and the repetition of last’s year’s march was not as exciting as the new sensation of seeing Sikkim. The landscape was disappointing and not at its best as no rain had yet fallen, the sense of bursting growth was absent. The previous day should have been the day of rhododendrons but only a few of the lower ones were out and the magnolias were disappointing as there were only white ones. However it was an enjoyable journey and everyone was cheerful and happy, particularly General Bruce. It was exhilarating to feel the high clean air again and to sleep above 12,000 ft and except for some cold and cough lingering he felt fit enough. Longstaff wasn’t fit yesterday and had a bad headache.

He kept company with Noel, who was filming and taking photographs and who was very pleased with a film of him bathing.

The air was quite clear as they were above the valley haze. He planned to start early the next day and get up a peak and see what should be an amazing view of the Sikkim mountains, Kangchenjunga.

He thinks of her and home and wishes they could meet once a month so he could hear her tell him about everything.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

He was writing on Saturday and would be leaving on the following Monday to spend one night with Avie. They made a new climb on the west peak of Lliwedd under his lead which had some very good bits. H. V. R. [Herbert Reade] couldn’t manage a bit near the bottom without help. Climbing had just enough competition about it for the leader to enjoy such a moment. Wasn’t too wet during the climb but at that moment the wind was raging with savage gusts. Rain was coming down at intervals in torrents.

Her letter didn’t mention her health so he supposed she was better. Thought her idea to move in with Aunt Pattie was excellent. Apologises for forgetting to post his last letter to her in Chester so it would arrive later than intended.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had got to bed at 3.30am and slept until 11.30am. Had been feeling feeble but was much better today. Disappointed to still have heard nothing [about his return home]. Had not been writing over the last few days wilst he had the flu or whatever it was. Had to give a lecture on ‘Civics’ so would have to think of something to say as the Colonel and some other officers would be there.

Was sorry the return to the Holt had been delayed and supposed it was because of Owen’s flu.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday'

Full Transcript
This mere note to precede a very long letter I am in the course of writing in reply to two beautiful letters from you. We are depressed on this bit of the front. Nevertheless a fair number of prisoners drift by. We have been very busy. I am rather tired but very well. Great love to you dearest from your loving George.

Dispatch rider just off. A few moments more. I am sitting on the roadside other officers gazing at prisoners 100 yards off through glasses. ‘A damned seedy looking lot those!’ says Glen. The air is full of jars. Not much doing this evening. We are disgusted at not being allowed to fire more rds [rounds]. I hope the show has gone well elsewhere. The din this morning was terrific. I’m feeling tremendously excited – but I fear we shan’t go forward as soon as we hoped. The weather is v. fine which ought to help matters. It is extraordinary how little shelling the enemy has done here. All the damage to our men on this bit of front done by machine guns. Here goes my love again. Congratulate Mildred and Robert from me.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on the first day of the Battle of the Somme. 'Saturday July 1 12.30am'

Discusses his views on religion and what should happen to Clare’s religious upbringing if he should be killed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kharta'.

Brief Summary
Describes flowers seen by him and Norton. Comments on a copy of the Everest book which he had received.

Detailed Summary
Had received two letters from her. Correspondence had been more difficult this year.

Had found two new white primulas. Describes the scene of his discovery in detail which was so beautiful he nearly fell down and wept. Detailed description of the flower. Hoped the seedlings they were bringing back would survive. Had also found another flower which was a much more starry flower. The flowers had been wonderful over the last few days. He and Norton had explored a side valley going down to the Arun. They had the loveliest of walks, trees, shrubs, and all were at their best in broken sunlight and showers - perhaps the best of all that blue-purple iris blooming freely in patches the size of our garden.

Had received a copy of the Everest book but was bored with having to find a place for it in his baggage. Thought it was well got up and looked the money but was disappointed with the reproductions. Was amused to find that the Morning Post was his most favourable reviewer. Thought the other reviews she had sent were remarkably dull, but the Times seemed pretty favourable.

They were to start back the day after to-morrow. He didn't expect to be able to catch a boat before 5th August and would probably save money by sailing right on to London. Younghusband had written to him and had said about the book, ’ ‘Yours was a splendid contribution and I am glad I resisted efforts to have it broken up and subdivided . Wonders whose wanted to subdivide the book and wondered if it was Howard-Bury out of jealousy.

Had received a letter from Edith Stopford and mentions the political situaion in Ireland. Wonders if it’s possible for civil war to be avoided. Edith said everyone expected it be and no one seemed much concerned.

He was very glad she has been to London. Asks her to congratulate Ursula on her concert.

Letter to Ruth Mallory

Brief Summary
Most of the party was ill or injured with frostbite. Feeling in the camp was more discontented. He, Finch and Somervell were contemplating a third summit attempt. Thought Finch would annoy him. Opinion on what went wrong with 2nd attempt. Weather was worsening. If they did make a 3rd attempt he would be delayed in coming home.

Detailed Summary

Wishes he could be enjoying the first blush of early summer with her. Has been re-reading her letters and says her time in Wales sounds full of enjoyment and so unlike this. The North Col was a wonderful place for a camp as it was sheltered from the west wind behind great battlements of ice.

He finds a difficulty in writing to her because she will have heard of events that have not yet happened before she receives his story. She will know the results of their final attempt, which they will begin tomorrow or the next day. Despite mixed feelings about another venture it would have been unbearable for him to be left out. Until yesterday morning he felt there was no chance of going up. Longstaff felt they were all ill since they came down and strongly believed the Expedition had done enough and had better shut up shop. Longstaff reported him medically unfit due to his finger and his heart. However, Wakefield had made a careful examination yesterday and pronounced his heart perfectly sound and he trusted his judgement. He did risk getting a worse frostbite by going up again but felt the game was worth a finger and he would take care.

Norton had not been fit since they came down [from 1st summit attempt] and there was no question of his going up again. For Wakefield and Crawford the limit was the North Col and Geoffrey Bruce’s feet would require a month to recover. Only Finch, Somervell, and himself were left. Finch appeared done when he came down in spite of the liberal use of oxygen, but was fit enough. He was afraid Finch would get on his nerves a lot before they were done, but hoped they would manage the climb without serious friction [anticipating 3rd attempt in 1922].

The weather was getting steadily worse which would settle the affair. It seemed much windier than last year. He feared getting caught on the ridge in a bad gale. Finch and Bruce had made a strong effort on the last day but in some ways managed very badly. Assessing the 2nd summit attempt he felt it was an initial mistake to go to a fresh camp at 25,500 ft instead of moving to the one they had established and they had put it on the wrong side of the ridge exposed to the wind. By some mismanagement there was a shortage of supplies both at the North Col and 25,500 ft. Porters were sent up from the North Col at 4 pm and they did well to get back there at 11 pm. The idea of porters wondering about up there in the dark with none of us to look after them filled him with horror. The story of the Gurkha orderly was pretty bad too. The plan was to take him on from 25,500 ft carrying 6 cylinders of oxygen for 1,000 ft of 1,500 ft by which time it was supposed he would be exhausted. He was to then sent down by himself drinking oxygen from one cylinder. Finch seemed to have a different standard of caring for the porters than him. He was determined they would run no risks with their lives during the next venture.

The new attempt would impact plan for his return journey. Strutt, Longstaff, and Morshead would be going back to Darjeeling as soon as animals arrive, in 4 or 5 days. Norton and General Bruce would be going over to Kharta at the same time (he was to have gone with them). The main body would follow to Kharta after they had finished with the mountain. He would aim at catching the Treista boat from Bombay on 1 August but she wasn’t to count on that.

[Continues later] - He had escaped from the camp to write the letter. In the past 3 or 4 days it had seemed to be a less serene, rather a discontented place. Morshead suffered from his fingers continually and he [Mallory] feared he would lose the first joint of six of them. He bore it well but was not a cheerful figure. Norton was even more depressed. Strutt was more than usually full of curses. Crawford and Wakefield who were last down from the mountain were not very pleased with the prospect of going up again so soon. Longstaff was far from well with indigestion and sleeplessness and was at present in one of his moods of bustling activity, when he became tiresome, interfering, and self-important. The General, who had been tied to camp almost the whole time by a sore foot, showed a better temper than anyone. Bruce and Strutt both hated the wind and they had had no more than one windless hour.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 1 1917'

He didn’t have time to write to her yesterday as he had to go to a meeting of intelligence officers and then a walk with the Colonel. Describes a visit to his old battery where he saw Wood and Glen who was in charge whilst Lithgow was at home on special leave. They wanted him to return to them once his current posting was finished. He would be very happy to return to them. He didn’t have great hopes about the staff job and wouldn’t set his heart on it.

Had received lots of letters from her. Was glad she liked his literary notebook idea and was glad to hear news about Clare. When he came home he would like to find her waiting for him at the Holt. They would walk out into the Loggia and stroll about their small domain looking at the plants and then go up to the nursery.

Describes what flowers and plants were out in the woods and asks what was out at home. Thinks they may start fighting again before the Spring. He had motored over to a village to put a marble plaque on a grave at the request of the Captain when he was with the French. Describes the decorations on the graves.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Describes the damage done by a deluge of rain to the dugouts and efforts to make repairs and improvements. Now had a stove which gave him hope of eventual dryness.

Last night he visited Platnauer again and stayed until midnight talking about poetry which was a great pleasure. Platnauer was a passionate admirer of Rupert Brooke and he brought away two volumes to read carefully.

Up in good time that morning and firing began at 7am. Endless difficulties because the trail buried itself in the mud after about 10 rounds and it required 40 men to pull her out. Weather was misty and warm so hope for more work as he was tired of waiting. The last three weeks had spoilt everything on this front and sown how difficult it would be to get on during the winter. Was his turn to go to the O. P. [observation post] the next day which would mean spending half a day up to his knees or thighs in mud.

Asks her to send his climbing boots which would be useful in the conditions. No news of leave.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Southgate Corner, Winchester

Had lunched in one of the houses at Winchester College [his former school] and watched fifteens afterwards. Sat besides Robinson, a young master. Had been for a walk with Rendall and for tea with the Irvings. Then was due to have dinner with Williams, a second master in College. Planned to do some more of his won writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 1 1916'

Acknowledges receipt of wooly waistcoat.

Had been busy all day firing at the Fleurs Line which the Infantry then took. They had advanced about 200 yards. They were setting a faster pace and thought enemy was a bit demoralised.Had fine waether and things were looking brighter. Also had good news from the East.

Had received a good letter from David who was climbing in the Lake District.

She had remarked that he never mentioned the other officers. He wasn’t with them often but would describe them in another letter. Sends his love to Ursula.

Describes the ground between High Wood and Martinpuich.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had arrived in France from Newcastle and describes the journey in trucks and the extra provisions they had managed to sneak on board.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 1 1916'

Thanks her for her letters, returning his manuscript, and the wristwatch strap. Ask her to buy and send him a pocket knife.

Glad she likes the manuscript and answers her comment that it was in danger of being too educational. Explains his ideas for the book.

Had been sitting outside the map room in the sunshine. Thanks her for the apples. He was off to censor letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Explains leave arrangements and how he could travel to her via train and bicycle. Hadn’t been give duties yet but he would need to learn to ride a horse. Had been to the station to collect his bag and mackintosh and had then been to buy a tri basin, soap and a pillow and visit Wells the booksellers where he had bought a map, several volumes and learned the news as to who was in town. Was pleased to have met Fearon, his first headmaster at school, who had invited him to tea any day. Had visited the cathedral and includes a transcript of an inscription and then been for a walk.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 10 1916'

Comments on where she is in the garden when she is writing to him and describes where he is writing from at the end of his night duty shift. Asks her to send a pound of butter as an experiment to see if it arrives fresh. Thanks her for the cake. He could get chocolate so not to bother sending that. Asks her to try and get 5 stone of new potatoes sent to them as getting vegetables, especially potatoes was difficult.

Yesterday and so far today had been peaceful and sunny.

Comments on the Holt and that he should try and write to some friends in the hope of getting good letters back. Asks what happened to the parts of his letters she copies out and thinks that others besides the family would like to see them. Would write to David. Mr Allen had written to say he might be coming our as a Chaplain.

Describes in detail where he lives (the offices and his dug out) and includes a sketch of the location of the map room. Tents were used but only in the cover of trees.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Describes trek so far and outlines plans to get home from India.

Detailed Summary
It gave him a certain pleasure to write this address as it meant he was getting towards home. Their trek had not gone perfectly so far and he compares their progress to his and Bullock’s the previous year. The three of them had 20 animals this time to care for and stores etc. for Somervell and Crawford to stay a fortnight in the Lhonak Valley. They hoped to get over the Naku La, the next pass to the west of the one he and Bullock had crossed the previous year, and so into the valley the day after tomorrow but thought there might be difficulties.

He had decided to catch the Narcunda on 5th August and so would be 4 days later than if he went on the Trieste line to Venice as it would be less expensive. The extra days in India would just allow him to see Delhi without undue hurry. He hoped to meet Hugh Aeber Percy there. Hoped to see her again around 26 August.

He had received two good letters from her and one from Avie [his sister]. His was glad his father had received the honour of being made a Canon as he had been rather missed out before. Comments on Ruth's letter saying she was splendid to take on so much and was very glad she was managing to keep the gardens going too. Her news about flowers coming out interested him greatly. Understood from her remarks that John [their son] was tremendously admired. What thrilled him most was to hear of his great purple-faced rage!

He wouldn't be able to stay with the Bullocks at La Havre on his way home but thought they could do it later as it would make a delightful and cheap holiday to go to Rouen for a few days and stay 2 or 3 nights with them en route.

Tibet was much more attractive now than when they came out. He, Somervell, and Crawford made a happy little party and he had been enjoying the days since they left Teng. Would probably stay again with the Morsheads in Darjeeling. The last news they had of him was rather better and Longstaff thought all his toes and the fingers on his left hand would be saved.

He was sitting in the last sun which was shining brilliantly on the Dzong, a glorious sight from the lovely green meadows where their tents were pitched. The men with whom they were arranging their transport for the next day had just arrived.

[Letter continues later] - Had a terrible argument with the Tibetans as they didn't want to go their way. But he thought they would give in. Their dinner was delayed as their cook was also their interpreter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 10 1917'

He was just back from the observation post where he had had quite an interesting time. It was very misty last night and they had experienced endless difficulties laying the wires which he describes.

Had received a letter from his Mother about the Cheshire cheese she had sent ages ago which had just come back mostly eaten by rats.