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Black and white photograph of the team for the 1904-05 academic year. Names on the board:

W.R. Lucas, H.L. Gwyer, G.K. Leach, H.W. Emerson, A.V. Poyser, A.E. Bellars (Hon. Sec), C.R.I. Johnson (Captain), E.H. Hincks, N.M. Fergusson, J.W. Horne

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Sardinia, ‘in the Mediterranean towards Malta’

Brief Summary
He was keeping a diary with detailed descriptions about the people and events on board ship. He hadn't enjoyed the first few days and was missing her. Lists what he was reading. Describes fellow passengers.

Detailed Summary
Was concerned about when she would receive his letter and hoped he would receive a letter from her once he arrived in Malta but he has his doubts. He wasn't going to write an elaborate account of his life on board ship at the moment as he was keeping a sort of diary which he would send to her at intervals. [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/2, 7 and 26].

She must have been depressed after they parted but he admired her for being so cheerful and brave all the time. Asks her to think of him especially at the times she gave John [their son] his bottle. He had found the first days on the boat utterly hateful and longed to have her with him. He supposes the Morgan children were with her at the Holt. Asks about the garden listing six garden chores which she or Cheeseman could do. It was turning out to be a dull letter.

He had finished Queen Victoria, most of which he greatly enjoyed, and was also reading Martin Chuzzlewit and Santayana. He had been working on his Book of Geoffrey but had made little progress and felt depressed about it. At dinner he sat between Colonel Frazer and a very undistinguished man called Holyake. He describes the Colonel and his conversational skills, the seating plan, and fellow guests at the table. The intellectual life on the boat was lacking and the best person to talk to was the Auxiliary man who had travelled in the East but he was a bore. There were no organised athletics and they had only managed a dance for about 4 couples to the accompaniment of a gramophone. Wished there was more activity. Describes the beauty of the sunlit Mediterranean, the slow pace of travel, and sitting in the bows alone watching the wide sea. They had seen Gibraltar at dawn, the Sierra Nevada later in the day and then the African coast. Describes seeing the Atlas range which contained several fine peaks and rock faces which carried plenty of snow and went up to 10,000 or even 11,000ft.

He anticipated spending six hours in Malta.

Postscript - Wanted to hear about her domestic arrangements and how she liked her companions.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Approaching Colombo’

Brief Summary
Describes fellow passengers. Many on board had been ill. Describes the unquiet ocean. Recovered from a bad headache. They were approaching Colombo.

Detailed Summary
He had been thinking of her a great deal, particularly yesterday on the anniversary of their engagement. Wishes she had been on the voyage with him. He describes his fellow passengers including a ‘Black and Tan’ who worked in the Middle East, the Colonel and Mrs Frazer who were table companions, Mrs Vernon and two other ladies. There were also a number of unpleasant youths. Thought that the people in Second Class looked more interesting but there are obstacles preventing him making their acquaintance. Many on board, including the Captain, were ill but they were being cured with castor oil. He had mild symptoms and had been up in the night and had cut down on his consumption of food.

He had a sense of the nearness of disaster or danger as the sea was as deeply evil as it was attractive. The ocean was so calm at times so that you forgot the violence of which it was capable. He was interested in the contrast of the well behaved passengers on the boat and the ocean outside. It was a gloomy letter and he had not made much progress on his book Geoffrey. He was expecting it to be very hot at Colombo where they should arrive the next morning.

[letter continues later] - They were just reaching Colombo and he felt very cheerful after his splitting headache last night.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.

Letter to Captain [J. P.] Farrar [copied by Ruth from George's original letter]

Everest was a colossal rock peak plastered with snow with faces as steep as he had ever seen.

He and Bullock were at 1st Advanced Base Camp and he describes the North ridge, the glacier and the slopes of the first peak beyond the col which were impossibly steep. He describes the west side of the cwm, and the difficulty in reading his and Bullock’s aneroid heights, giving a reading of 18,650 ft. He thinks the face of the mountain may be completely unassailable.

He describes the summit as rock at a moderately easy angle, and further details possible access points from different directions. He had the dimmest hope of reaching the top, but they would proceed as though they meant to get there.

He estimates his own fitness as well as that of Morshead, Bullock and others. They couldn't pretend they can go on as they did in the Alps. He had found the descents difficult and had been forced to adopt a deep breathing system going down as well as up. Any exertion beyond an even, balanced pace demanded more of one’s organs than they were inclined to give. Wondered how well they could acclimate at elevation. Sets out the plans for the following day and describes the sight of the glacier.

[Letter seems to end abruptly. There may have been another page which is not in the Archive]

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 1st Base Camp, Rongbuk Glacier on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Was disappointed that all the photographs he had taken had not come out. Will go back to their old camps to re take them. Longs for home. Liked walking round camp collecting flowers. Had been having bad weather. Had enjoyed beautiful views from their highest camp. Had called one of the mountains 'Mount Clare' after their daughter. Describes their explorations and other members of the group.

Detailed Summary
Had received three of her letters and was pleased she liked his parcel from Colombo. All the photographs he had with the ¼ plate had not come out [He had put the plates in the wrong way round and blamed instructions given to him by Heron]. He had taken enormous trouble setting up the photographs, many of them were taken at sunrise from places neither he nor anyone else may go again. Was determined to go back to one of their old camps so he could replace the photographs. He had hoped to show them on a future lecture tour and to her. The weather was bad, but they were much more comfortable in their eighty-pound tent.

He was sorry he hadn't been sharing enough of his feelings with her [in her letter Ruth had asked him to share more] but he had been occupied with what they had to do. He longed for home but remained cheerful even though the moments of real enjoyment were rare. He liked walking round camp collecting flowers but the bad weather stopped him. They had to stay in the tents due to the bad weather and he played piquet with Bullock to pass the time.

He had greatly enjoyed their highest camp the night before their attempt on the W. cwm because of the beautiful views. One mountain in particular was singularly lovely and he called it Mount Clare [the name of his eldest daughter. Mount Clare is now called Pumori, meaning 'mountain daughter']. They had done very little climbing and it was a slow and tiresome business crossing the glacier.

The mountains were rather unfriendly compared to the scenery of the Alps. They hadn't seen a tree in Tibet!

Comments on the contents of her letters.

28 July - Woke up to snow on the ground at Base Camp and the weather clearing. He lead a march with six porters and two mummery tents going up about 3,000 ft from Base Camp. Then raced down to join Bullock half an hour short of 2nd Advanced Camp. Passed a comfortable night, though it was freezing. His alarm clock failed to go off, and later they set out in the moonlight, Bullock with two porters up into the N. cwm and him with two others to the little peak. There was a blanket of cloud a few hundred feet above their heads but they went on and he was able to get a clear view for about 30 seconds of Mount Clare [Pumori]. He was able to take ten photographs, and some of Everest, predicting they would turn out well. He had photographed the West Peak feeling that he had repaired a good detail of the damage [referencing his earlier photography mishaps].

Changing weather and thunderstorms had made them abandon their plan due to thick snow. He and Bullock were later reunited with Howard-Bury’s party. Wheeler arrived later the same evening after making his photographic surveys to the west. Wheeler had been doing much of what they had done but alone. It was rather silly that they couldn’t have joined forces. After three days trekking they had arrived at Kharta and the new Expedition Base Camp. He describes the changing scenery, coming down to Cholo.

They were nearer to the Arun Valley and had crossed two passes and were sleeping near clear bubbling streams. Seeing the snow mountains had been full of interest but to see things grow again had been a real joy. Describes a sweet mountain valley and the flowers saying he might have been in the Highlands. Describes camping and being delighted by a particular flower that especially reminding him of her. They were in the Arun Valley before it went down into a narrow and fearsome gorge to Nepal and India. He planned four days’ rest.

31 July - Mail had arrived and he was busy printing photographs which were more successful. He was enjoying the quiet days but at the same time was looking forward to the next stage of their reconnaissance. They planned to follow a big glacier stream which he presumed came from Everest. The great question was the approach to the North col and feasible line of attack. He hoped to find it easier.

He hoped some of the others would join them as it had been disappointing to see so little of Wollaston and Morshead. Shares his current feelings towards Bullock. Refers to poor Wollaston and Raeburn’s absence for medical reasons and that they had no further news about him.

[Postscript] - he enclosed a few earlier photos.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from 'Gnatong’

He had been stupefied by a cold and the repetition of last’s year’s march was not as exciting as the new sensation of seeing Sikkim. The landscape was disappointing and not at its best as no rain had yet fallen, the sense of bursting growth was absent. The previous day should have been the day of rhododendrons but only a few of the lower ones were out and the magnolias were disappointing as there were only white ones. However it was an enjoyable journey and everyone was cheerful and happy, particularly General Bruce. It was exhilarating to feel the high clean air again and to sleep above 12,000 ft and except for some cold and cough lingering he felt fit enough. Longstaff wasn’t fit yesterday and had a bad headache.

He kept company with Noel, who was filming and taking photographs and who was very pleased with a film of him bathing.

The air was quite clear as they were above the valley haze. He planned to start early the next day and get up a peak and see what should be an amazing view of the Sikkim mountains, Kangchenjunga.

He thinks of her and home and wishes they could meet once a month so he could hear her tell him about everything.

Letter to Ruth Mallory describing the Avalanche in which 7 porters were killed.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth, I will answer what I imagine to be your first thought - it was a wonderful escape for me & we may indeed be thankful for that together. Dear love when I think what your grief would have been I humbly thank God I am alive.

/ It’s difficult to get it all straight in my mind. The consequences of my mistake are so terrible; it seems almost impossible to believe that it has happened for ever & that I can do nothing to make good. There is no obligation I have so much wanted to honour as that of taking care of these men; they are children where mountain dangers are concerned & they do so much for us; and now through my fault seven of them have been killed. I must try to tell you how the accident happened. But remember dearest one, not that I can imagine for a moment you would be harsh in your judgement that though I may have been mistaken I was neither reckless about the whole party nor careless about the coolies in particular.

When we started from the Base Camp on June 3 the clouds were thickening & it was evident that very soon the monsoon would be upon us; but none can say how soon in such circumstances the monsoon will make climbing impossible. I walked up half despondently with Finch to No 1 Camp; he was clearly quite unfit & could barely reach the camp. Next morning he went back to the Base leaving Somervell & me for the high climbing with Wakefield and Crawford to be back us up.

During the night of the 3rd snow fell heavily & continued on the 4th. We spent a cold day in the poor shelter at Camp 1, a little hut with walls about 3 ft 6 in high built of the stones that lay about there & roofed with the outer fly of Whymper tent. The white snow dust blew in through the chink & one wondered naturally, Isn’t it mere foolishness to be attempting Everest now that the snow has come? It was clear that if we were to give up the attempt at once no one would have a word to say against our decision. But it seemed to me too early to turn back & too easy - we should not be satisfied afterwards. It would not be unreasonable to expect a spell of fair weather after the first snow as there was last year; this might give us our chance at last, a calm day in the balance between the prevailing west wind & the south east monsoon current. And if we were to fail how much better I thought to be turned back by a definite danger or difficulty on the mountain itself.

On the 5th will too [many crossed through] much cloud still hanging about the glacier we went up in one long march to Camp 3 - a wet walk in the melting snow & with some snow falling. At the camp not less than a foot of snow covered everything. The tents which had been struck but not packed up contained a mixture of ice, snow, & water; more than one was badly rent in putting it up. The prospects were not very hopeful.

There was no question of doing anything on the 6th, the best we asked for was a warm day’s rest. We had a clear day of brilliant sunshine, the warmest by far that any of us remembered at camp 3. The snow solidified with amazing rapidity; the rocks began to appear about our camp; and though the side of Everest facing us looked cold & white we had the satisfaction of observing during the greater part of the day a cloud of snow blown from the North Ridge. It would not be long at that rate before it was fit to climb.
The heavy snow of the 4th & 5th affected our plans in two ways. As we should have to expect heavier work high up we should have hardly a chance of reaching the top without oxygen, & in spite of Finch’s absence with his expert knowledge we decided to carry up ten cylinders with the two apparatus used by Finch and G. Bruce to our old camp established on the first attempt at 25,000 ft; so far we should go without oxygen; in taking up the camp (one of the 2 Mummery tents & the sleeping sacks) another 1000 ft we might find it advisable to use each one cylinder; in any case we should have 4 cylinders each to carry on with us next day.

Our chief anxiety was to provide for the safety of the [‘coolies’ crossed out] porters. We hoped the conditions might be good enough to send them down by themselves to the North Col; & it was arranged that Crawford should meet them at the foot of the ridge to conduct them properly roped over the crevasses to Camp 4; there they would remain until we came back from the higher camp & all would go down together. Crawford was also to arrange for the conduct of certain superfluous porters who were to come up to Camp 4 but not stay there across the steep slope below the camp, the one place which in the new conditions might prove dangerous. With these plans we thought we might move up from Camp IV on the 4th day of fine weather should the weather hold, & still bring down the party safely whatever the monsoon might do. A change of weather was to be feared sooner or later, but we were confident we could descend the North Ridge from our high camp in bad weather if necessary, & three of us, or if Wakefield came up, four, would then be available to shepherd the coolies down from the North Col.

But the North Col has first to be reached. With the new snow to contend with we should have hard work; perhaps it would take us more than one day; the steep final slope might be dangerous; we should perhaps find it prudent to leave our loads below it & come up easily enough in our frozen tracks another day.
We set out from Camp 3, Somervell Crawford, & I with 14 porters at 8 a.m. on the 7th. A party including four of the strongest porters were selected to lead the way over the glacier. They did splendid work trudging the snow with loads on their backs; but it took us two hours to the foot of the great snow wall & it was 10.15 a.m. when Somervell, I, one porter, & Crawford, roped up in that order, began the ascent. We found no traces at first of our previous tracks, & were soon crossing a steep ice slope covered with snow. It was remarkable that the snow adhered so well to this slope, where we had found bare ice before, that we were able to get up without cutting steps. In this harmless place we had tested the snow & were more than satisfied.
Higher up the angle eases off & we had formally walked up at comparatively gently angels in the old snow until it was necessary to cross the final step slope below Camp 4.

Now we had to content with snow up to our knees. Crawford relieved Somervell & then I took a turn. About 1.30 p.m. I halted & the porters following in three parties came up with us. Somervell who was the least tired among us now went ahead continuing in our old line & still on gentle slopes about 200 ft below some blocks of fallen ice which mark the final traverse to the left over steeper ground. I was following up in the steps last on our rope of four when at 1.50, I heard a noise not unlike an explosion of untamped gunpowder. I had never before been [knew crossed out] near an avalanche of snow: but I knew the meaning of that noise as though I were accustomed to hear it every day. In a moment I observed the snow’s surface broken only a few yards away to the right & instinctively moved in that direction. And then I was moving downward. Somehow I managed to turn out from the slope so as to avoid being pushed headlong & backwards down it. For the briefest moment my chances seemed good as I went quietly sliding down, with the snow, Then the rope at my waist tightened & held me back. A wave of snow came over me. I supposed that the matter was settled. However I thrust out my arms to keep them above the snow & at the same time tried to raise by back, with the result that when after a few seconds the motion stopped I felt little pressure from the snow & found myself on the surface.
The rope was still tight about my waist & I imagined that the porter tied on next one must be deeply buried; but he quickly emerged near me no worse off than myself. Somervell & Crawford too were quite close to me & soon extricated themselves, apparently their experiences were much the same as mine. And where were the [rest crossed through] porters, we asked? Looking down over the broken snow we saw one group some distance below us. Presumably the rest must be buried somewhere between us & them. No sign of them appeared; and those we saw turned out to be the group who had been immediately behind us. Somehow they must have been caught in a more rapid stream & carried down a hundred feet further than us. They pointed below them; the others were down there.

It became only too plain as we hurried down that the men we saw were standing only a little way above a formidable drop. The others had been carried over. We found the ice cliff to be from 40 ft to 60 ft high, the crevasse below it was filled up with the avalanche snow & these signs enough to show us that the two missing parties of four & five were buried under it. From the first we entertained little hope of saving them. The fall alone must have killed the majority, & such proved to be the case as we dug out the bodies. Two men were rescued alive & were subsequently found to have sustained no severe injuries; the remaining seven lost their lives /.

There is the narrative - the bare facts, on separate sheets for your convenience - not my letter to you but a more impersonal account explaining our plans & their fatal conclusion. I hope it will suffice to let you understand what we were about. You may read between the lines how anxious I was about the venture. S. [Somervell] & I knew enough about Mount Everest not to treat so formidable a mountain contemptuously. But it was not a desperate game, I thought, with the plans we made. Perhaps with the habit of dealing with certain kinds of danger one becomes accustomed to measuring some that are best left unmeasured & untried. But in the end I come back to my ignorance; one generalises from too few observations & what a lifetime it requires to know all about it! I suppose if we had known a little more about conditions of snow here we should not have tried those slopes – [but crossed through] and not knowing we supposed too much from the only experience we had. The three of us were deceived; there wasn’t an inkling of danger among us. //

Writes again on ‘June 14’ [one week after avalanche] – In the interval since I began writing we have packed up our traps and are on our way down - actually I am sitting in a sheltered nook above that little patch of vegetation by the stream above Chobu [village], & it is raining softly which many account for some curious mark on the paper. I don’t want you to think dearest that I am in perpetual gloom over the accident. One has to wear a cheerful face & be sociable in a company such as we are. But my mind does go back very often to the terrible consequences of our attempt with great sadness.

I think it would be a good thing to send a copy of my narrative to a few climbing friends. Claude, to show to his climbing party, David & Herbert Reade. It won’t be of great interest to people who aren’t climbers I should suppose, but one might be circulated to my family too if you think they would like it. I have written to my father & to Geoffrey Young, Younghusband (very briefly) & Frank Fletcher. Please also send the account to Farrar asking him to read it and send it back to you (I don’t much want it to become an official document in the A.C., or at least not yet). And in circulating the narrative you will quote my remarks on p. 7 between marks //.

I don’t know whether you will have got the hang of our plans & arrangements. The reason for going to Kharta is really that the General wants to see that part of the country; the excuse that we want to collect flowers & birds & beasts. I had the chance of going back straight from here, but the chance of seeing the early flowers over the other side was too good to be missed & I’m still hoping to get back after a week or ten days there by a short cut through the corner of Nepal which would be a very interesting journey though extremely wet & should land me in Darjeeling before the middle of July. However that depends much on transport arrangements & I want to get someone to come with me who understands these lingos- perhaps Norton. My possible dates for leaving Bombay are 22nd, 29th July and 1st and 5th of Aug. I shall avoid the 29th if possible as it is a small boat P&O & I would sooner take the Trieste boat on the 1st & come overland. The 22nd is too early in all probability & the 5th (also P&O) is the best boat they have which is a consideration when meeting the monsoon. If I come by P&O I shall probably come to London; anyway I’ll wire giving simply a date (i.e. that of leaving Bombay) and write or wire again from Marseilles or Venice. I’ve been thinking much since your last letter dated April 22 etc. what we would like best to do in early autumn. PyP [Pen-y-Pass] is always attractive & it would be a very pleasant little party; I think we must wait to fix that if we feel like it. Prima facie I’m more in favour of breaking new ground & Richmond in early September might be perfect if Mill [Ruth's sister Mildred?] wants us. I suppose Bob has a job at Catterick; lucky man; he might teach me to fish in those dale streams. I’ve always wanted to go to Richmond.
I’m glad you like the book on botany & find it helpful; we shall be too late to make much use of it together this year, but it’s a thing we must do together sometime – I mean to learn much more about flowers for our children’s sake if for no other reason. But there is another reason; - there is a little shrub in front of me now most prettily blooming with a pink flower, not unlike a rather stiff & thorny rosemary, only the flower is more chartered - which I should much like to introduce into our garden but I can’t tell it’s species.

We are in much reduced company now - Strutt, Longstaff, Finch, & Morshead went off to Darjeeling retracing our steps, about a week ago, & Norton, G. Bruce to Kharta, where we shall rejoin them. I’m much distressed about Morshead’s hands. I fear he’s certain to lose at least the tips (i.e. 1st joints) of 3 fingers on the right hand; & he had a good deal of pain too. G.B. [G. Bruce] writes that his toes are troublesome, but no great harm was done there, & Norton, who was quite knocked out by our climb & a dispirited man after it he has now discovered that what he thought were bruises in the soles of his feet are really frostbite & bad enough to prevent him walking seriously. My finger has almost recovered except for a black nail, so I got off very lightly.
I must finish this off for a mail which is to go off at once. Please give my love to your Father & Marby [written up the side margin:] and make the understand as far as possible about the accident. Many hugs and kisses to the children and endless love to you dearest one. Your Loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Describes trek so far and outlines plans to get home from India.

Detailed Summary
It gave him a certain pleasure to write this address as it meant he was getting towards home. Their trek had not gone perfectly so far and he compares their progress to his and Bullock’s the previous year. The three of them had 20 animals this time to care for and stores etc. for Somervell and Crawford to stay a fortnight in the Lhonak Valley. They hoped to get over the Naku La, the next pass to the west of the one he and Bullock had crossed the previous year, and so into the valley the day after tomorrow but thought there might be difficulties.

He had decided to catch the Narcunda on 5th August and so would be 4 days later than if he went on the Trieste line to Venice as it would be less expensive. The extra days in India would just allow him to see Delhi without undue hurry. He hoped to meet Hugh Aeber Percy there. Hoped to see her again around 26 August.

He had received two good letters from her and one from Avie [his sister]. His was glad his father had received the honour of being made a Canon as he had been rather missed out before. Comments on Ruth's letter saying she was splendid to take on so much and was very glad she was managing to keep the gardens going too. Her news about flowers coming out interested him greatly. Understood from her remarks that John [their son] was tremendously admired. What thrilled him most was to hear of his great purple-faced rage!

He wouldn't be able to stay with the Bullocks at La Havre on his way home but thought they could do it later as it would make a delightful and cheap holiday to go to Rouen for a few days and stay 2 or 3 nights with them en route.

Tibet was much more attractive now than when they came out. He, Somervell, and Crawford made a happy little party and he had been enjoying the days since they left Teng. Would probably stay again with the Morsheads in Darjeeling. The last news they had of him was rather better and Longstaff thought all his toes and the fingers on his left hand would be saved.

He was sitting in the last sun which was shining brilliantly on the Dzong, a glorious sight from the lovely green meadows where their tents were pitched. The men with whom they were arranging their transport for the next day had just arrived.

[Letter continues later] - Had a terrible argument with the Tibetans as they didn't want to go their way. But he thought they would give in. Their dinner was delayed as their cook was also their interpreter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Chevremont, Darjeeling [Letterhead]’

Brief Summary
Somervell and Crawford were to stay in the Lhonak Valley for 2 weeks. Describes his onward journey without them. Morshead was mainly recovered and his fingers and toes were recovering.

Detailed Sumary
Is concerned about the mail and missing letters from her. What was more serious was letters sent off by him from Kampa Dzong - evidently hadn't got through. Correspondence seemed a hopeless business. He would be later than previously discussed and so should meet in London. It would be best to meet at the docks but doesn't want her to wait for hours.

Describes his journey since he had left Somervell and Crawford in the Lhonak Valley in the north of Sikkim. As she hadn't received some of his letters she might not know the three of them came through the short way from Kharta together leaving the others to come round by Shekar Dzong and Phari, etc. Their way was the same as his and Bullocks the previous year. Could she follow the route on her map? It was difficult to get the Tibetans to go that way and they had to go to Kampa Dzong for transport and waste a day there.

A land slip had rendered the pass down to Laachen unusable and it had fallen out of use until the jungle had covered it over. He believed a bridge had broken too. The others were to spend a fortnight or so in the upper part of the valley, so he made the march eastward to Tango. He started with two yaks and ended about midnight with one. He stayed 3 nights at Tango collecting his baggage from the Lhonuk La and then came through without delay, though in the last stages he had to leave his kit and it arrived a day after him. Sikkim was much less wet than expected. His memories of Sikkim were chiefly of rushing swollen streams and leaches.

Morshead was well and cheery and his left hand had practically recovered. Three fingers at the right were still bound up. One big toe still gave him trouble but was healing up well.

He wouldn't write more now as he had several jobs to do. Hopes they wouldn't be quite ruined by the time he reached home as attractions in the shops were irresistible. Apart from a large bag he had hardly touched the £200 to his credit with the bank there.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Anchor Line, T.M.S. California [Letterhead], March

Full Transcript

My Dearest Ruth,

It is Saturday and early on Wednesday morning we shall be in Bombay, so the voyage is nearing its end. I had a scheme of writing you a little each day, but though I have thought of you often I have written little [struck through] nothing. The fact is that the days after all turn out to be too short. As you may imagine my first idea has been to keep fit. It is never very easy in the hot weather, and though it was cool enough until we were in the Canal it has been hot since then – not remarkably hot, but limp-hot. For two days going down the Red Sea we had a following wind; there was no air on the ship and our cabin with the afternoon soon became insufferable. One night I tried to sleep on deck, with two pillows and two deck chairs to help me, but though it was pleasant enough lying under the stars, too exciting perhaps I got no sleep and in the early morning retired to the cabin. But the nights have been bearable except for that one and the great way to be fit is to perspire freely both before breakfast and again in the evening before dinner. With Beetham and Irvine I do a good deal of throwing and catching the medicine ball and that proves the best way of all. Occasionally I run, ten times round the deck, which is about a mile. Anyway activities of this sort cut into the time between tea and dinner; after dinner when I don’t play Bridge (ie. about every other night) I don’t find I get much done of anything serious and one is hot and stuffy and after dinnerish. However I have a done a good whack at Hindustani at which I hope to be very much more efficient this time. I have read a little history; I have written the article for Blackie and Son and I have studied the oxygen apparatus and gone through lists of stores and invoices so as to get to know exactly what we have that we shall want from the Base Camp on and have my own list in a notebook. The one serious omission is crampons – nothing but the old-fashioned heavy kind; it is very disappointing; I made a great point of that with the equipment people. It means we shall have to cut steps up the final slope I suppose. The oxygen apparatus is going to be awkward to carry and particularly to cut steps when wearing it will be difficult. I have spent some time too going into the question of organising high camps; but it is difficult to come to any conclusions at present and I think very likely our plan should be to have a stray reconnaissance using oxygen from the North Col to decide the heights of different places suggested and also how many people could sleep there. The point of using oxygen would be to preserve the strength of those making the reconnaissance. However this plan would be rather expensive of organisation, and I doubt whether we shall carry it out.

The ship has been much more agreeable since we unshipped our cargo of Scotch tourists at Port Said. There is room now on board and one can find a corner and get away and be quiet if one wants to. We sit eight at a table of whom one is Irvine and it is quite an agreeable little crowd. I am always down and have finished breakfast before anyone else arrives unless it is Irvine and then seek solitude, so I hardly see anything of anybody before lunch. If people see one busy – and they have grown accustomed to see me busy – they don’t mercifully, disturb one. Even so it isn’t easy to get much done; if one sits in a wind papers blow about and if one sits out of it one is too hot. They are a nice lot of people quiet and dullish and unobjectionable. I fear I’m not seeming very sociable, but they have asked me to give a talk about our expedition and I have agreed to do that tomorrow night.

I’ve a sort of feeling that I’ve left all the difficult things to you. I do wonder how you’ll get on about selling the Holt and letting Herschel House, and building our new wall and dealing with the garden. I came to no agreement with you about paying bills while I am away – I think the best plan will be for you to pay none unless it seems urgently necessary; I think there can hardly be any to pay, unless it is the Army and Navy stores for port wine and any Everest things, e.g. Bodger’s and Beales can wait.
Don’t forget the wine cellar must be locked up if you let the house; and in the cellar is the over mantle for Mrs Lock.
I wonder where you will be when you get this. As your plans were vague I shall post to Herschel House; and it should get there about April 5 and may catch you. Your first letter to me should reach Bombay 2 days after us and so I should only have 2 days in Darjeeling to wait for it.

I haven’t said a word to you about my hip which was bothering me – you will have gathered that it is better, and it is indeed perfectly well and strong, so that I never think of it or notice it; in fact I am pretty fit altogether; my ankle and its behaviour in new boots are the only anxiety; but I have a comfortable old pair for marching and shoes besides so I should be all right.
I feel this to be a very dull letter. I hope you got my communications from Port Said all right, particularly 2 boxes of Turkish Delight addressed to all three children. I want to know about that because I had to get them despatched from a shop. And did I ask you to send photos of yourself and them? I do like to have them.

Monday – The end of the voyage begins to loom near. Thoughts of the journey across India and various details obtrude themselves. I shall begin packing today, because I don’t see exactly how I am to dispose of the heavy suit in which I came on board – you’ll remember that I haven’t much room left in the suitcases.

I find myself wanting to see India again and looking forward to the journey in spite of heat and dust. How dirty we shall be by the time we reach Calcutta!

The Indian Ocean has been remarkably smooth and lifeless, and rather grey as it always is – until today when it is all alive with a delicious breeze, and blue like the Mediterranean. We’ve seen nothing of interest but a school of dolphins which performed with a truly amazing joie de vivre.

It is curious that now I am in warm sunshine I must think of you in a summer frock – March 17 – perhaps it is snowing in Cambridge. England does look a little grim from the tropics at this time of year. But you’ll have an English spring and sunshine. I wonder if you will go to see Mill give them my love if you do – I do like the way they have settled down – they’ve done it very nicely, and they are nice happy people.

How I wish I had you with me; with so much leisure we should have enjoyed this time together; and I would have been able to give you so much more than I can give you in our daily life at home. Supposing that you instead of Hazard had been sharing my cabin and I could have peeped over in the morning from my perch and seen you lying below and we would have gone up into the bows together in our silk dressing gowns to breathe the fresh morning air and sat together here where now I am alone – dear girl we give up and miss a terrible lot by trying to do what is right; but we must see we don’t miss too much.

I shall write again before we leave Darjeeling, one day early next week so as to catch the next mail after this one, which will go out on Friday the 21st.

Great love to you, dearest one, and many, many kisses for the children.
Ever you loving
George

P.S. I’m sending a few stamps I bought off a man in the street in Port Said. If you know any small boy of our acquaintance, Bobby, or John, or Franz, will you send them on to one of them. Aunt Jessie will probably have them and anyway is old enough to know better.
G.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Hotel Mount Everest, Darjeeling [Letterhead].

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

These have been full days since we came up here on Friday & tomorrow, Wednesday early, we start for Kalimpong - so that our stay has been short enough, & much taken up with packing & arrangements of one sort or another. Norton has got the whole organisation under his hand & we shall economise much time & money by dumping some of our boxes en route: all the stores for the high camps have practically been settled already. He is going to be an ideal 2nd to Bruce.

The party looks very very fit altogether. We had a very hot journey through India. The hot weather apparently came with a rush this year just before we landed & the temperature must have been up to 100 a good part of the time we were in the train, as it was supposed to be 99 in Calcutta; its a grimy dirty business & I was glad to get to the end of our train journeying. I was feeling a bit short of sleep otherwise very fit. The only doubts I have are whether the old ankle one way or another will cause me trouble.

Four of us walked up to Senschal Hill yesterday afternoon to see the magnolias. I was trying my new boots from Dewberry; they are going to be good but my right ankle didn’t feel too happy.

The magnolias were magnificent, a better show than last year - four different sorts white & deep cerise pink & two lighter pinks between - they so look startlingly bright on a dark hillside.

The country here is very dry at present & a haze of heat blown up from the plains hangs about. we haven’t seen the mountains until this morning when Kanchen has very timely made an appearance. Somervell & Odell besides the General, Geoffrey Bruce & Norton etc were here before us; it was very nice to see S. again & Odell is one of the best. Really it is an amazingly nice party altogether; one of the best is Hingston our M.O., an Irishman a quiet little man & a very keen naturalist. The only one I don’t yet know is Shebbeare, who belongs to the Forestry Department & is said to be a particularly nice man; he knows all about trees & shrubs which is a very good thing but nothing about flowers. So that we shall once more be without a real botanist.

We go to Kalimpong all together, as before, tomorrow and then separate in two parties; I shall be with the second, with Norton, Hingston, Irvine & Shebbeare I believe. Noel’s movements are independent; he is more than ever full of stunts; the latest in a Citroen tractor which some hour or another is to come into Tibet a pure ad of course (this may be a secret for the present).

The Everest Committee has now among us all a wonderful reputation for muddle and the latest is that after all they gave us the wrong address & the old one c/o Post Master, Darjeeling is correct. However I shall get your letters addressed to Yatung with little delay.

The English mail should have come in yesterday but the ship was 12 hrs late & we shan’t get it until today & consequently will have precious little time for answering.

I long to get your letter dear though it will only give me 3 days’ news.

How long is it since I left you? It will be four weeks on Friday. By now or very soon you will be leaving Cambridge for a time & won’t feel so lonely. I know you must have been feeling lonely some evenings; but you will have had Frances Wills part of the time & I hope you will have been out or had people to see you sometimes too. I expect the absence of me must make you feel less busy? Have you made a fresh start with china painting?

Dearest one, I often want you with me to enjoy things with & to talk over things & people quietly; and I want to take you in my arms & kiss your dear brown head. Here’s a great holiday time it seems & you not with me. But we’ll have a wonderful holiday together one of these days won’t we?

Later - The English mail has come in & I’ve had a letter from Mother but none from you. My dearest it is very disappointing. I hoped you would catch me at Darjeeling. Perhaps you directed to Yatung in which case I shall get your letter there in 7 days time.
I lunched with Her Excellency (what a title) Lady Lytton & her family today. Lady L. is really very nice but lord how folk can live with aides de camp hanging round! 2 here & presumably 2 more at Calcutta & one civilian one military secretary!

Much love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children.
Ever your loving
George.