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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Acknowledges receipts of a batch of her letters and answers her questions – they encountered no submarines on the crossing, describes living arrangements which he shared with Bell, and his manservant who valets for him. Outlines the organisation within the battery with him and Bell alternating being on duty for a week at a time, and having special responsibility for one gun. Had continued working on the building project. Reassures her about the dangers of casual shelling. Had been complimented for setting a fine example to the men on the building works by visiting Generals. Had to clear a barn of straw. Asks her to send tea.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been a long way on the motorbike on filthy roads to get equipment for the building project. Bought supplies of food but the lemon squash and a tin of fish paste had broken and made a mess in the box on the bike. Was asked to tea in the farmhouse on his way back and was making friends with Captain Matheson. He was on duty that night. Thanks her for the cake.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 March 1924

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Hotel Mount Everest, Darjeeling [Letterhead].

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

These have been full days since we came up here on Friday & tomorrow, Wednesday early, we start for Kalimpong - so that our stay has been short enough, & much taken up with packing & arrangements of one sort or another. Norton has got the whole organisation under his hand & we shall economise much time & money by dumping some of our boxes en route: all the stores for the high camps have practically been settled already. He is going to be an ideal 2nd to Bruce.

The party looks very very fit altogether. We had a very hot journey through India. The hot weather apparently came with a rush this year just before we landed & the temperature must have been up to 100 a good part of the time we were in the train, as it was supposed to be 99 in Calcutta; its a grimy dirty business & I was glad to get to the end of our train journeying. I was feeling a bit short of sleep otherwise very fit. The only doubts I have are whether the old ankle one way or another will cause me trouble.

Four of us walked up to Senschal Hill yesterday afternoon to see the magnolias. I was trying my new boots from Dewberry; they are going to be good but my right ankle didn’t feel too happy.

The magnolias were magnificent, a better show than last year - four different sorts white & deep cerise pink & two lighter pinks between - they so look startlingly bright on a dark hillside.

The country here is very dry at present & a haze of heat blown up from the plains hangs about. we haven’t seen the mountains until this morning when Kanchen has very timely made an appearance. Somervell & Odell besides the General, Geoffrey Bruce & Norton etc were here before us; it was very nice to see S. again & Odell is one of the best. Really it is an amazingly nice party altogether; one of the best is Hingston our M.O., an Irishman a quiet little man & a very keen naturalist. The only one I don’t yet know is Shebbeare, who belongs to the Forestry Department & is said to be a particularly nice man; he knows all about trees & shrubs which is a very good thing but nothing about flowers. So that we shall once more be without a real botanist.

We go to Kalimpong all together, as before, tomorrow and then separate in two parties; I shall be with the second, with Norton, Hingston, Irvine & Shebbeare I believe. Noel’s movements are independent; he is more than ever full of stunts; the latest in a Citroen tractor which some hour or another is to come into Tibet a pure ad of course (this may be a secret for the present).

The Everest Committee has now among us all a wonderful reputation for muddle and the latest is that after all they gave us the wrong address & the old one c/o Post Master, Darjeeling is correct. However I shall get your letters addressed to Yatung with little delay.

The English mail should have come in yesterday but the ship was 12 hrs late & we shan’t get it until today & consequently will have precious little time for answering.

I long to get your letter dear though it will only give me 3 days’ news.

How long is it since I left you? It will be four weeks on Friday. By now or very soon you will be leaving Cambridge for a time & won’t feel so lonely. I know you must have been feeling lonely some evenings; but you will have had Frances Wills part of the time & I hope you will have been out or had people to see you sometimes too. I expect the absence of me must make you feel less busy? Have you made a fresh start with china painting?

Dearest one, I often want you with me to enjoy things with & to talk over things & people quietly; and I want to take you in my arms & kiss your dear brown head. Here’s a great holiday time it seems & you not with me. But we’ll have a wonderful holiday together one of these days won’t we?

Later - The English mail has come in & I’ve had a letter from Mother but none from you. My dearest it is very disappointing. I hoped you would catch me at Darjeeling. Perhaps you directed to Yatung in which case I shall get your letter there in 7 days time.
I lunched with Her Excellency (what a title) Lady Lytton & her family today. Lady L. is really very nice but lord how folk can live with aides de camp hanging round! 2 here & presumably 2 more at Calcutta & one civilian one military secretary!

Much love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children.
Ever your loving
George.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 March 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 25 1917'

Discusses the move and how much including books had accumulated. He had rescued her lovely bowl from the mess kit and was going to pack it into his rucksack. It was nearly a year since she had painted it at New Romney. It was easier to face another year after the last one but he could do with three weeks of New Romney to start with. She must be prepared for a bad time with the post but he didn’t expect a dangerous time for the present.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been on duty all night. Describes the sound and sight of the guns firing on the German lines.

Feared the spiritual side of life did not have a good chance out there – not the intellectual or aesthetic part and the chance to read Clutton-Brock’s book had a revivifying effect.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 July 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Monday 25 July' [Monday was actually 24 July]

Yesterday was adventurous mending a wire and dodging shells. Was with two young fellows. Then he went to the observation post.
Comments on news that his battery had been accused of shelling their own troops in a trench. Very anxious and tried to work out if it was true as it would have been his fault. Turned out it couldn’t possibly have been their battery so all was well.

Comments on the labour shortages there would be after the war and how all moral sense was lacking in so many trade unionists.
Acknowledges receipt of three copies of the Times.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 July 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 25'

Had seen Mr Thompson’s name in the casualty list but he wasn’t the same man that had joined with him. Describes how dangerous his position was and that it was nothing for her to worry about. His name had been put forward to do observation work from an aeroplane but he didn’t think it was on the cards that he would leave the battery.

Her parcel had arrived minus the tea and prunes. The potatoes and carrots had arrived. Asks for a chocolate cake next time and buns if they wouldn’t go stale.

Were reduced to four as Quinn had gone to another battery which had suffered casualties so they would be short staffed until Quinn returned.

Liked to think of her in the gardens of Westbrook writing to him. Points out her regular spelling mistakes and askes her to explain Willet Time and if it had anything to do with the Daylight Saving Bill.

Explains what he wants her to do about money and paying off their debt.

When he had finished Wings of a Dove he had thought how glad he was that she was so pure and true. He would have wobbled much more without her. No shadow could come between them unless she considered it a shadow that she couldn’t spell. He wants her and asks her to be as brave as she was constant and true.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 April 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on board the S.S. Sardinia, on ‘P. & O.S.N. Co.’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes daily routine and exercise. Opinion of Port Said and Suez Canal.

Detailed Summary
It had been very hot since they had left Port Said and the air had been absolutely saturated until today when they had got out of the Red Sea. He was always moist and sticky and the nights especially seemed very stuffy.

Early morning was the most pleasant time of day. He had been doing gymnastic performances and a course of exercises prescribed by Muller. He tried to write before breakfast at 9am, and afterwards wrote in the smoking room. Before dinner at 7pm he pottered about with deck games. In the evening he generally played Bridge and had a stroll round the deck afterward. The time passed very easily and the only difficulty was getting sufficient sleep as it was too warm. The morning exercises were making a difference and he would arrive in India as fit as a fiddle. Doesn't think he will receive the mail delivered in Port Said at Aden and supposes he’ll receive mail at Darjeeling. If he could get out at Madras and take the train he could be in Darjeeling on the 9 May. They will soon arrive in Aden. Port Said was not in the least exciting and the Suez Canal was extremely dull. He had been bitten by mosquitos.

He couldn't send any Turkish Delight from Port Said because of some complication about a sugar duty.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 25 April 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 25 1917'

Comments on her letters saying she seemed very happy with her two babies. Didn't fully understand what she meant by saying she felt completely grown up now unless it was that life had filled out. Wasn't sure he felt older since he had come out to fight but did feel less puzzled by life.

They were having an easy time but had started to dig as the Germans showed a slight disposition to nastiness. He would be sorry to return to a dug out but must have one ready in case it became necessary. His servant and many more had been inoculated.

Describes looking for cellars in a large villa that had been burned down.

Her parcel with Well's book had arrived and he had plenty to read as 10 numbers of The New Europe had arrived. Marvelled that his oil skin cape had been mended. He was very glad to have some chocolate. Wanted more refills for his cooker.

They had heard little news of the battle. The French were doing nothing more at present and there seemed little opportunity to snatch more territory at present. The Germans would have reserves up in strength. They needed the Russians now but how much were they good for?

Reminisces about a trip to Winchelsea and Rye in the spring.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24-25 August 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 24 1916'

Was feeling a bit better. Her letter had arrived quickly. Still no date for leaving rest camp. She wasn’t to be anxious about winter as there would be less fighting and so less chances to be killed. He had his job and time passed quickly but it must be harder for her. Thought Clare must have changed since he last saw her.

Was pessimistic about the war and asks why they hadn’t done anything about Salonica. Everything in that area depended on Romania coming in which would only give two months to cut communications between Germany and Turkey before winter set in. Thought that with Romania's help Russia would be able to beat Austria. Hungary would be less willing to make terms if Romania cames in. Very strongly thought they should take stock after the Autumn campaigns and offer terms accordingly. Didn’t doubt they would win eventually. Thought Germany could defend herself for at lest two more years and practically nothing was worth two more years of war.

25 Aug – had finished the letter but had mislaid her Aldeburgh address, which he had now found, so was writing more. He would be in camp all day and was reading a French book by Rene Bazin about Breton peasants. Discusses places in the book and why he would like to visit Brittany and how he views rural England from a distance.

Hadn’t yet received the apples or grapefruit and asks where she sent them. Suggests that she use wooden boxes and tells her how to make them. Thinks a plum cake is the one most likely to survive the transport. Doesn’t need any more soup tablets.
Had just received and eaten a grapefruit which was delicious but barely ripe so he would save the others.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24 October 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 24 1916'

Bell was playing the flute and they may soon be singing. Dunbar was keen and knew many songs. Wood had one song - Clementine. Casey takes no part. Says a book of general English and Scotch songs and some folk songs would be very useful and ask her to try and get one next time she is in London.

Tiresome day spent collecting stuff for mess and canteen. Low heavy clouds and rain meant very little firing. He had finished The Woman in White. He would have the opportunity to continue writing his book soon.

Describes his dugout and draws a plan of it.

Likes to hear about her working in the garden at the Holt. Talks about the neighbours and asks her to rake up all the Charterhouse news and send it to him. Asks for Pollly’s address and says she shouldn’t have the bother of having to copy out his letters for his friends when he had time to write to them himself.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was glad she was recovering [from pneumonia]. Wishes he could be home with her. The King was going to Paris on 29th which was the same day he would go if he got leave.

He had a heavy cold yesterday so hadn’t written to her as he was too tired after dinner. Looked forward to living with her and being happy in their home. She must be patient with him and they would learn to live with one another and be happy.

They had not yet moved but he expected they would that day. They had to give up most of their trucks which would be very annoying.

He was delighted her father had begun to walk again. Hopes he will be strong again.

He was reading Tess of the d’Urbevilles which had wonderful descriptions of dairy farms in the Frome Valley and she would love it although it was another tragedy.

It was still very cold but bright and he had walked into Arras to buy stuff for the mess. The car was out of action as the rear axle was broken. When it broke the wheel came off and careered down the road nearly upsetting a despatch rider.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had just finished Tess of the d'Urbevilles and talks about his reaction to the story and Hardy's writing.

25 Nov - he had to go to Arras to a Court of Inquiry which was a tiresome business. The Major had toothache last night. He was due to have dinner with Trafford next Wednesday to celebrate the aniversary of him taking over No. 8 Squadron. He would be in Paris on Friday but would probably miss seeing the King as he was due to go on Thursday. Planned on going to the Bibliotèque Nationale.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24 May 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Gnatong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

His journal was a scholarly effort and his letters were more personal. The expedition had experienced problems with the mules carrying the expedition equipment, despite a day’s rest in Kanhi [village], and so local ponies were hired. He was happy to leave Darjeeling as Government House was rather trying.

He didn't get on with Howard-Bury and had difficulties with him and Raeburn. Marching was a slow business. Describes his daily routines. He often found himself with Wollaston admiring their surroundings. Had given a sick man a ride on his pony and gives details of the journey up the valley. Describes the flowers and the differences he observes as they rise in elevation. He compares what he is seeing to the environment of the Alps. Describes heavenly meadows 'indescribably desirable’ as they travel upwards, and his negative observations of town of Gnatong. For the first time it was cold and fresh and he was delighted to meet the cool air. As he walked up the last 3,000 ft he felt very slightly the effects of the height which pleased him as it seemed like the real thing. They were leaving the last village in Sikkim and were soon to cross the Jelep La into Tibet.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 24 March 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 24 1917'

Was a great pleasure to receive three letters from her yesterday and one today. He was delighted by the photos of Clare. Was sorry she wouldn’t have Diana with her and that the O’Malleys had had such bad luck over their house. Would like to hear from Mary Ann but supposes she is too busy. The chocolates she sent were a great success and the plums continued to be so. It would be a mistake to send more uncooked sausages as the weather should soon be really warm. Asks for his tent as the Germans had destroyed practically all their dug outs so they would be short of stores for the foreseeable future. Also wants her to send back his shirt and pyjamas but not the underclothes, ½ pint enamel mugs, and a small pocket torch with a metal filament lamp and six refills.

Gives his views about the Russians.

Asks her to send him Wells’s book as he had seen it reviewed and gathered that he was very unfair to the regular soldier.

Was feeling depressed and out of temper yesterday. They were living in very close quarters with seven of them living in the mess from tea time onwards. They were happy but noisy sand not much room for writing a letter or quiet reading. Had been on long walks, today with Lithgow and Glen and they investigated a very pleasant little copse. Was anxious t get in and help beat the enemy. Wasn’t depressed today but didn’t anticipate any very immediate action.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 September 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 23'

His hand was wobbly after driving in a stake with a very heavy maul. Was hoping he would get fit before he went climbing again. Intended to enjoy the late summer as there would be gloomy days afterwards.

Had been interested by Born in Exile [by George Gissing] which he describes.

Was sharing the work of the advanced section with Dunbar and describes his routine. Asks her to send out tea, about three packets of Mexican chocolate and a dozen soup squares.

He had seen Austin Earl twice more and describes his character. Had received a letter from Urquhart but felt too cynical to answer as he knew that he just wanted to hear how much danger he was in.

Looking at No. 4 gun under her camouflage of wire netting she looked quite a pleasant object but if Dante could see some of the terrible monsters out there he would write it was just what he needed for this inferno and would make drawings in his notebook (felt Dante was a notebook man). Thinks the inferno can’t have been such an unpleasant place. Compares his current situation and hell. Says hell is peopled by two kinds of bores – those with harsh insistent voices and the rest with polished manners. Asks her if she would rather go to Heaven or Hell. If Hell makes people aware that they were wrong, Heaven makes them no less conscious that they were right.

Asks her to copy out this letter for his mother. Hates to think of his letters going around his friends and this not to be among them as it was very like the real him.

Was glad she had spoken to Will and asks what he was doing.

Had just found four lice on a mackintosh cape on which he was sitting.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 2-3 September 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 2 1916'

His off day had been busy keeping an eye on various odd jobs and getting provisions for the men.
Glad she wa enjoying Aldeburgh and sea bathing.

Discusses the state of the war and the internal pressures in Germany.

3 Sept – Very busy morning on the battery with much fighting. Had seen prisoners passing by them which was a hopeful sign. Had been blessed with fine weather.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 October 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The mess was very quiet. He had been very sleepy all day after an exciting night. Although he was never away from the old battle area the spirit of autumn was everywhere and there was nothing like the healing power of nature especially trees.

He thought much about Charterhouse and imagined teaching and dealing with boys there again and the prospect was pleasing in many ways.

That afternoon he had been to A. [Arras] and had explored the outlying parts. Some of the buildings had been damaged but very few in the south west of the town had been seriously damaged. He had talked to more than one lot of refugees. He had returned with a good supply of vegetables - cabbages, brussel sprouts, onions and celery, in his rucksack.

The post was unreliable because they didn’t have their own censorship stamps as they should and the letters had to pass through so many different and changing hands that he feared she would never receive some of his letters.

He hadn’t yet thought deeply about the latest German Note although it didn’t strike him as satisfactory. It was evident democratic opinion didn’t yet control Germany and they had to wait for that but he felt that miracle would happen.

He wanted very much to see Clutton-Brock’s book and asks her to order him a copy and send it out to him. He had almost finished George Young’s book about the Balkans which was very interesting. He had recently read George Eliot’s Silas Marner which was a very pretty story which she would like.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 March 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Somerset Club, Boston’ letterhead writing paper

He would soon be on the Saxonia on his way home. He had been busy with a few lectures and had greatly enjoyed Princeton. Back in New York he had seen Allston Burr, interviewed pressmen, and lectured at St. Paul’s School. There was currently 8 to 10 ft of snow melting steadily.

He was sorry she was still having trouble with the car and that being stuck near the top of Firth Hill with petrol trouble was very bad.

He agreed with her suggestion that she wouldn’t come to meet him further than Godalming Station.

He wasn’t altogether disappointed by the American visit. It had been intensely interesting and had given him a real insight into Americans attitudes and opinions. He liked them on the whole very much, far more than he expected. They were extraordinarily modest and humble and pathetically anxious to be thought of well by English people.

He ends the letter to attend a luncheon party.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

22 June – had received her letters and cake. A good cook had arrived with the other half of the battery so things in the Mess were better.

23 June – had to stop writing last evening to do more mathematics and registering of targets and had been very busy since then. Was delighted with his birthday present. Comments on her visit to Mary and Ralph’s.

There had been a great storm that afternoon when he was working in the ex-messroom with Lithgow. They had made inadequate arrangements to carry water away. Had to make some damming arrangements. The tent he shared with Bell had been blown away and their things were exposed to the pelting rain. Wondered how he would manage for dry bedding although the weather had turned warmer in the last couple of days.

Was feeling tremendously strung up for great things and hoped they would begin soon.

Comments on Stephen and Bridget’s relationship. Wishes he could talk with her more and although they were ok for officers now it would be a while before he was due leave.

Asks her to thank Clutton-Brock for his book which he had received.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 August 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 23 1916'

Had been unwell and in bed all day. Was sending her a chapter of the Book of Geoffrey and how he might improve it.
[postscript] – the document is too precious to send to Aldeburgh

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 April 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 23 1917'

He had received some old letters from her and isn't happy that the post is so bad. They hadn't heard much more about he great operations in the north and south. Had received a letter from Polly. Her father had suffered two bad strokes. He was in his 80s and had married again. As he was semi paralytic his wife was also nursing him. Polly was quite calm about it and didn't really know or love her father and couldn't like him but wouldn't have the new Lady Jenkinson in her home. Polly was capable to creating and living in false worlds. She was nursing and it he thought it would be as well for her if the war went on for another 30 years.

Had a good time at the observation post and had conducted a shoot of 100 rounds. Too cold to walk in the woods but had picked some polyanthus and grape hyacinths which he had put in her bowl in the mess.

There was a good deal of activity about inoculation. So far his servant had given notice that as a result of his inoculation he wouldn't be able to shave him for some days.

Was hoping for some warmer weather. He had found some daffodils and Lithgow some rhubarb which they planned on cutting. The cream she had sent was very good and asks her to send more and to continue sending the sausages. He had ordered two pipes from Cambridge and told them to send her the bill. Asks her to send something for his hair which inclined to scruffiness and his barber servant said he should have some dry shampoo which he thought was a good idea as it was hard to wash his hair out there.

The battery were all together and Wood was sleeping with him in Dunbar's place which he was glad of as the effort of dispelling Dunbar's habitual cloud of gloom was wearisome.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22-31 July 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 1st Base Camp, Rongbuk Glacier on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Was disappointed that all the photographs he had taken had not come out. Will go back to their old camps to re take them. Longs for home. Liked walking round camp collecting flowers. Had been having bad weather. Had enjoyed beautiful views from their highest camp. Had called one of the mountains 'Mount Clare' after their daughter. Describes their explorations and other members of the group.

Detailed Summary
Had received three of her letters and was pleased she liked his parcel from Colombo. All the photographs he had with the ¼ plate had not come out [He had put the plates in the wrong way round and blamed instructions given to him by Heron]. He had taken enormous trouble setting up the photographs, many of them were taken at sunrise from places neither he nor anyone else may go again. Was determined to go back to one of their old camps so he could replace the photographs. He had hoped to show them on a future lecture tour and to her. The weather was bad, but they were much more comfortable in their eighty-pound tent.

He was sorry he hadn't been sharing enough of his feelings with her [in her letter Ruth had asked him to share more] but he had been occupied with what they had to do. He longed for home but remained cheerful even though the moments of real enjoyment were rare. He liked walking round camp collecting flowers but the bad weather stopped him. They had to stay in the tents due to the bad weather and he played piquet with Bullock to pass the time.

He had greatly enjoyed their highest camp the night before their attempt on the W. cwm because of the beautiful views. One mountain in particular was singularly lovely and he called it Mount Clare [the name of his eldest daughter. Mount Clare is now called Pumori, meaning 'mountain daughter']. They had done very little climbing and it was a slow and tiresome business crossing the glacier.

The mountains were rather unfriendly compared to the scenery of the Alps. They hadn't seen a tree in Tibet!

Comments on the contents of her letters.

28 July - Woke up to snow on the ground at Base Camp and the weather clearing. He lead a march with six porters and two mummery tents going up about 3,000 ft from Base Camp. Then raced down to join Bullock half an hour short of 2nd Advanced Camp. Passed a comfortable night, though it was freezing. His alarm clock failed to go off, and later they set out in the moonlight, Bullock with two porters up into the N. cwm and him with two others to the little peak. There was a blanket of cloud a few hundred feet above their heads but they went on and he was able to get a clear view for about 30 seconds of Mount Clare [Pumori]. He was able to take ten photographs, and some of Everest, predicting they would turn out well. He had photographed the West Peak feeling that he had repaired a good detail of the damage [referencing his earlier photography mishaps].

Changing weather and thunderstorms had made them abandon their plan due to thick snow. He and Bullock were later reunited with Howard-Bury’s party. Wheeler arrived later the same evening after making his photographic surveys to the west. Wheeler had been doing much of what they had done but alone. It was rather silly that they couldn’t have joined forces. After three days trekking they had arrived at Kharta and the new Expedition Base Camp. He describes the changing scenery, coming down to Cholo.

They were nearer to the Arun Valley and had crossed two passes and were sleeping near clear bubbling streams. Seeing the snow mountains had been full of interest but to see things grow again had been a real joy. Describes a sweet mountain valley and the flowers saying he might have been in the Highlands. Describes camping and being delighted by a particular flower that especially reminding him of her. They were in the Arun Valley before it went down into a narrow and fearsome gorge to Nepal and India. He planned four days’ rest.

31 July - Mail had arrived and he was busy printing photographs which were more successful. He was enjoying the quiet days but at the same time was looking forward to the next stage of their reconnaissance. They planned to follow a big glacier stream which he presumed came from Everest. The great question was the approach to the North col and feasible line of attack. He hoped to find it easier.

He hoped some of the others would join them as it had been disappointing to see so little of Wollaston and Morshead. Shares his current feelings towards Bullock. Refers to poor Wollaston and Raeburn’s absence for medical reasons and that they had no further news about him.

[Postscript] - he enclosed a few earlier photos.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22-23 November 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received her lovely letters. The Captain was due back tomorrow. Bell’s move had been put on hold and he had put in for leave. Speculates on when he would get leave.

Discusses likely terms for the end of the war. Doubted it was possible to draw up terms which would prevent the Russians from exercising their old influence in Central Europe and the Balkans. Wonders at what point the price paid would be sufficient. If Germany were likely to collapse it would be advisable to carry on until that point but he doubted that would happen.

News of Clare was enchanting. Hopes she is better from the attack of vomiting.

Had heard from Harold Porter who was happy in his job of divisional signalling officer. Had heard from Brother Giles who was in Cambridge on a cadet course. Mentions the Greens [who were renting their house, the Holt] and the arrangements he had made with them about coal. Was missing her and looking forward to seeing her.

[Postscript written at 3.30pm on 23 Nov in pen] - was just back from a reconnaissance in their front line which had been an extraordinarily interesting and strenuous day in indescribable conditions. Was waiting for his batman to bring water in the hope of having a hot bath in his dugout.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 October 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 22 1916'

Apologises for missing two days before writing as he had been dining with the 109 battery and then unexpectedly been observing. Had received three letters from her and was glad Clare was alright and she was better from her illness. Thanks her for the ginger cake.

It was very cold already and it was still Autumn so asks her to send him two pairs of warm pyjamas, two short woollen drawers (hard to get), two medium woollen vests, two thick flannel shirts, and a face towel.

Was interested in the Arts and Crafts exhibition. Asks if she had been to a private view and wants very much to see it with her.

Had seen Earl who was more depressed and tired than the last time. He disliked the whole business more than most and was in an uncomfortable battery having to use clumsy great ammunition. Earl was delighted to hear about her gift of potpourri.

Lithgow was giving himself a rest so he and Bell were doing most of the observation work which he describes.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was glad to hear about her recovery from pneumonia.

He was getting impatient to know if he would be home in a matter of weeks or months. Was hoping for sometime before term started.

They were to move the following day as the French needed their line as they were building a bridge. They would not be moving far - a few miles outside Arras in the unstrafed countryside and he would be much happier.

Expects she is spending time reading in bed and wonders what she is reading. He had just finished Bleak House which was very long and not all of it very interesting. When Dickens was good he made the most convincing and lovely people. He loved his characters himself and that was a great charm. There were at least 50 characters in Bleak House and of those Dickens only really hated one and mildly disliked half a dozen or so. Wished Dickens was a more careful writer but he poured it all out from the fulness of his observation and experience. He could never quite get over his Victorian weakness for easy sentiment. He didn’t know if his best characters, the shoddy dingy servile, crowd interested him.

He was reading Beaumarchais’s play Figaro which was splendid and reminded him of Mozart’s music. Beaumarchais was one of the great men and he wanted to get hold of an autobiographical book, Mémoires.

An allotment of Paris leave was going begging and he had put in for it. If he wasn’t released before 29th he would console himself by going to Paris and spending his evenings in theatres and concert rooms and his days in bookshops. Wishes she could be there too.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 May 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Rongli Bridge, Sikkim. [First letter written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead]

The weather had been very bad, monsoon clouds had been blown up from the south on the day of their departure and there had been very heavy rainstorms. The rain clouds were spoiling his views. There were difficulties with transport, muddy paths, and trouble with the mules, which were not accustomed to going down steep hills. All the misfortunes had brought them to a halt in a warm valley bottom. He had nailed a pair of climbing boots greatly to his satisfaction. He describes Sikkim [a state in northwest India] - the hillsides, valleys, the cultivated land he sees on the higher slopes, the rich green growth, and the considerable variety of lilies which made the air fragrant. Wollaston could only name a few of the trees but did know a good deal about tropical things. One of the best moments on their last march was sitting on a bridge waiting for ther ponies and seeing gorgeous butterflies circling about like gently mooring birds.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They had chopped down the pear tree, white cherry tree and black cherry tree which filled him with the burning sense of sin, shame and horror.

Had been out with the working party last night and had carried six successive sandbags full of bricks on his back for half a mile of rough walking. The authorities were pressing them to hurry but they couldn't build very fast with one whole brick to every twenty fragments. The heat had been unbearably oppressive and he had welcomed the thunderstorm but he had skidded in the rain on the motorbike and broken the glass in his watch. Asks her to send any kind of cover for it.

They had cut the trees down to make room for two new gun positions. Asks her to thank Mother for the excellent pencil.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 March 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 22 1917'

It was quiet with no sound of war where there used to be shelled daily. Wanders what she makes of the German’s retreat. The newspapers were making out that they were pushing the enemy back with desperate haste but that wasn’t the case and they were following in a most leisurely manner. Didn’t now if the Infantry were in touch with the enemy now. They weren’t two days ago. Most of the bridges had been blown up. Describes how some bridges had booby traps. He proceeded with caution over the recovered land.

Péronne made him angry as hardly a roof was left there and all the best houses were badly damaged. On entering the town the first thing he noticed a house on fire in the most medieval part and it must have once been a lovely place. It still had a charm and was rather like Rye.

When he, Lithgow and Glen had been out on their reconnaissance they had walked 20 miles and he had seen frightful sights which disgusted him like fruit trees all cut down. It drove away any feeling about the enemy other that the desire to destroy them.

The countryside behind the German lines was a pleasant surprise and they seemed to have made less of a mess with their dumps and camps.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 January 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 22 1917'

He had spent the evening with Cosmo Gordon who was 4 miles away. He was much nicer than he used to be and had married Frances Graham the sister of Bertie Graham who was with them in Wales when he went with the O’ Malleys and Ursula. Cosmo was a Grenadier Guard in a Stokes Mortar battery. He thought she would like him and hoped they would see them after the war. They had an son aged 8 months.

He was tired and had to start again at 8am with Lithgow.

Was glad she was thrilled with Kipling's account of the Battle of Jutland and thanks her for sending copies of the Spectator.

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