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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on the first day of the Battle of the Somme. 'Saturday July 1 12.30am'

Discusses his views on religion and what should happen to Clare’s religious upbringing if he should be killed.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had got to bed at 3.30am and slept until 11.30am. Had been feeling feeble but was much better today. Disappointed to still have heard nothing [about his return home]. Had not been writing over the last few days wilst he had the flu or whatever it was. Had to give a lecture on ‘Civics’ so would have to think of something to say as the Colonel and some other officers would be there.

Was sorry the return to the Holt had been delayed and supposed it was because of Owen’s flu.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

He was writing on Saturday and would be leaving on the following Monday to spend one night with Avie. They made a new climb on the west peak of Lliwedd under his lead which had some very good bits. H. V. R. [Herbert Reade] couldn’t manage a bit near the bottom without help. Climbing had just enough competition about it for the leader to enjoy such a moment. Wasn’t too wet during the climb but at that moment the wind was raging with savage gusts. Rain was coming down at intervals in torrents.

Her letter didn’t mention her health so he supposed she was better. Thought her idea to move in with Aunt Pattie was excellent. Apologises for forgetting to post his last letter to her in Chester so it would arrive later than intended.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from 'Gnatong’

He had been stupefied by a cold and the repetition of last’s year’s march was not as exciting as the new sensation of seeing Sikkim. The landscape was disappointing and not at its best as no rain had yet fallen, the sense of bursting growth was absent. The previous day should have been the day of rhododendrons but only a few of the lower ones were out and the magnolias were disappointing as there were only white ones. However it was an enjoyable journey and everyone was cheerful and happy, particularly General Bruce. It was exhilarating to feel the high clean air again and to sleep above 12,000 ft and except for some cold and cough lingering he felt fit enough. Longstaff wasn’t fit yesterday and had a bad headache.

He kept company with Noel, who was filming and taking photographs and who was very pleased with a film of him bathing.

The air was quite clear as they were above the valley haze. He planned to start early the next day and get up a peak and see what should be an amazing view of the Sikkim mountains, Kangchenjunga.

He thinks of her and home and wishes they could meet once a month so he could hear her tell him about everything.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Balliol College, Oxford [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had been in Oxford where the book shops were the best in the world. This would be the last letter before her journey to see him and he longed for Wednesday.

Letter to Ruth Turner [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

An affectionate letter looking forward to their meeting on Wednesday which filled him with delight.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had received a lovely long letter from her and was sorry she had hurt her hand and was not in very good health. He had a bad toe which caused him to limp. Discusses possible houses they could take and plans for the rooms asking if they were to have a piano. Arthur Benson had written to ask what he should give as a wedding present and asks what he should give as an answer - a Persian rug or a bath towel?

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Asks if she had received Sunday's letter [24 May] as well as Saturday’s letter [23 May]. Expected her letter to be in the humblest vein or even remorse that she had thought he could be anything but the most virtuous and punctual of correspondents.

Supposes it’s the walk that made her feel jiggish, skippish, skittish, spriggish, snappish and frolicsome and not his beautiful long letter which was the longest he'd ever written. The real worry about her being in Ireland was that it took so long to get an answer and they often seemed to have the same thoughts.

Discusses plans for meeting on Wednesday. He planned to go to Oxford for the weekend and asks her to send her letter to him on Saturday c/o F. Urquhart, Balliol College. He spent the afternoon with some boys at the Jenkinsons’ but could not play with them as he had a bad toe.

She shouldn't begin worrying about what she could or could not say to him.

The weather was changing and he was looking forward to visiting Oxford which was the most beautiful place of it’s kind. His mother was very keen for them both to visit. Wishes he had her help choosing Mary’s wedding present. Must attend a meeting at the Headmasters [Frank Fletcher] to elect the Junior Scholars.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Regrets that she did not receive his long letter sent on Saturday. He was glad she went on her walk. Compared her 10 hour climb to a 15 hour climb in the Alps.

Explained what he meant when he said she was true.

The following day would be busy as he would have to take another master’s English class and still had scholarship papers to mark.

He ought to go to Mary's wedding [his sister] but it could be difficult leaving school. There was bad news in relation to a prospective house and hoped something else would turn up.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He was concerned about where they would live mentioning two places that they had considered but were no longer possible. They would get a house somehow and he wanted her all to myself next holiday.

He had been back to Westbrook [Ruth’s family home which was close to Charterhouse] as they had left the hook behind [see: PP/GM/1/1/1914/13]. She was very much in the air and he had picked some flowers. He was due to dine at Brooke Hall with his guest Mr Becker [a former music master], and feared he would have to play Bridge.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was longing to be with her. What was the use of writing about the little things he had done and thought when one thing was so much greater than the rest.

[Letter is continued later that day] - He had spent a glorious evening in her canoe with two boys and had a successful picnic. He describes the different garden flowers he had seen. Asks her where they should meet the following Wednesday. Upcoming week would be spent correcting the English papers of scholarship candidates and seeing pupils. His mother wanted them to visit her in Birkenhead, and that she was delighted with his letter. He hoped she got up that mountain on Saturday.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had spent a very lazy morning talking with Lytton [Lytton Strachey, a friend of Mallory’s who was staying with him at Charterhouse], reading poetry, particularly The Menage of the March Wind by William Morris. He was visited by Alan Goodfellow who had been ill and stayed to talk during Chapel [he had climbed with Mallory in the Lakes the previous year]. Breakfast and lunch were trying as Lytton didn't like boys. He was very shy because he talked in a falsetto voice. In this sort of company he would say very little and yet look very striking. He was a man you couldn't ignore.

Ruth’s life didn't sound all joy and he hoped the fishermen appreciated how good she was [Ruth and her sisters Marjorie and Mildred spent much of the time rowing the men in the party including their Uncles Lawrence and Hawes out onto the Lochs to fish]. She had a dangerously unselfish disposition but she wouldn't spend her life doing little jobs for him.

Time was a rude limitation on their existence and they would have to find more of it by being more organised. It was only a week and a half until they would see each other.

Postscript - asks if they can make a new vocabulary of love words.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had no pupil that evening. The boys were being taught to fight on the other side of the pergola so it wasn't quiet. Agrees that other people seemed dull and it was all wrong and annoying but it would all be alright once they are married.

His day had started with a pupil before breakfast followed by two hours in school. One class contained some exceptionally irritating people and he was quite annoyed. He had a more enjoyable afternoon teaching history to his form and then English with the smallest boys. He had read poetry with them and they seemed enchanted. He was in quite a good humour.

He hadn't known how important her letters would become to him. He had found a photograph of himself taken in Wales which he hoped was agreeable. He provides an address for Avie [his sister Annie Victoria known as Avie]. He was delighted with a map Ruth had sent as it made him think of her in beautiful surroundings. He hoped she would get up the mountain and warned her not to be deceived by Whymper as things had changed a lot since his day [late 1800s]. They knew much more now and climbed much better.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had started the letter once already ragging her for not writing [he had not received a letter that day] but had torn it up as he was afraid she would take it too seriously. He assumes there was no Sunday post. His sister Mary and Ralph Brooke were in the room talking and it was distracting him. Ralph had played in a cricket match against the school and made a century. Would she like him to be a hero like that? Mary and Ralph were talking about their wedding service plans and about cricket.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Teases her about misspelling the word 'glacier' [Ruth had dyslexia]. Misses and loves her. Is frightened when she says their life will be perfect together and warns her to expect downs as well as ups but thinks it will turn out at least as good or even better than she imagines.

Would send her a letter from his mother and asks her opinion. He describes the previous day when he had been walking with Hilton Young [Geoffrey Young’s brother]. They had met another Cambridge friend was was now a doctor and a man he knew slightly. His friends were nicer now than when they were at Cambridge. Puts it down to having a job. He lunched with the Clutton-Brocks and played cricket with the boys.

He was behind with work and worried about the Shakespeare papers which he had been correcting - the boys didn’t appreciate Cordelia. They didn't have the necessary emotional experience. He wanted to write an article about Cromwell. Clutton-Brock had given him his book about William Morris which he would read and send on.

He had received a cheque for £100 as a wedding present. It was a serious annoyance to him that she was rich and he was poor.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was delighted her letter had arrived. The country sounded lovely and he wished he could walk the hills with her. Glad she loved the hills and was interested in Whymper’s ‘Scrambles’. They ought to have a proper climbing season that year in the Alps.

Had spent the morning altering the second four lines of the sonnet he was writing [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/2] and gives her instructions on the metre and how best to read it. He hopes she will like it. He had been correcting Shakespeare papers and was behind with his correspondence. He had an aversion to the military and would like to discuss the subject more with her. He was a doubter in life with enough firm views for a firm foundation but liked to think and change his mind. Mary's [his sister] man Ralph Brooke was an instructor at Woolwich, and therefore both a school-master and a solider.

She wouldn't be lonely now she had the sonnet. He adds to the letter the next day asking her to date her letters.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

She must be in another continent at least as he had not yet received a letter from her.

His Form were dong a paper on the First Act of King Lear. He had been to a tennis party and dinner party at the Headmaster's House where Mrs Fletcher [wife of the Headmaster] had referred to Ruth as very pretty. Mrs Fletcher had asked about their arrangements for the future and what colour their rooms would be. Suggests they should be high toned and have an emerald, sapphire or amethyst room; or be romantic and have a room like Monte Cristo’s cave; or like the bottom of the sea; or, should he take Orders and adopt mid Victorian culture?

Had been to a dinner party at Prior’s Field with the Clutton-Brocks. Sets out his plans for the weekend.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

14 May - Had done very little pining as he wanted to keep all thoughts of her to be a positive experience. Spent the morning in school, teaching King Lear and Carlyle, who was a bore, and Heroes and Hero-Worship which would be a good book if it were shorter. Had finished teaching Cromwell much to his relief.

He wouldn't think about talking to his friends about the things he writes to her about. Had spent the afternoon chaperoning students on the river towards Somerset Bridge and was due to have a pupil at 9:15.

15 May - The weather was nice and he wished she was there. The weather wouldn't be nice with her as she was in Ireland. Hopes she has been sick on the boat as when he is sick it does him good. He had to see Rendall about an entrance English paper and asks if Ruth's father knows Rendall.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School on headed notepaper [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had written to his mother but did not understand her reply until Mary [his sister] explained to him that it was usual for a bride-groom’s parents to provide house linen. He had slept out the previous night and felt glorious and now had to prepare his history lessons.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

It was a wonderful that she loved him and wanted to know him and that his letters had meaning to her.

She mustn’t depend too much on him as he might affect her growth and she his. There must be separate individual growths. He was not perfect and didn't wish to be because it would be very dull. She was so disturbing to his balance that he didn't now whether he was on his head or his heels.

He was reading Clutton-Brock’s book on William Morris whom he admired. Morris was the foundation of all their present revolt against the heritage of Victorian ugliness. He had also read two new sonnets by Keats which expressed exactly his own feeling. That was what the great poets did for us.

Letter to Rupert Thompson, written from 2nd Advanced Camp, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Thanks Rupert for helping with Franz. He thinks Rupert may be able to tell him why he embarked on this adventure. Describes the scene in his tent as he and Bullock wrote letters. Sometimes thought that the expedition was a fraud invented by the wild enthusiasm of one man - Younghusband – puffed up by the would be wisdom of certain pundits in the A.C. [Alpine Club] and imposed on the youthful ardour of himself.

He describes a precipice nearly 10,000 ft high and the prospect of an ascent in any direction was almost nil. He had to endure the discomforts of a camp at 19,000 ft and had trouble understanding the porters. He looked forward to his return home.

He planned to start at dawn with 250 ft of rope ready to slide down on the side of a great ice pinnacle. He had his compass, glasses, aneroid, alarm watch, and bed socks. He hoped the snow was a passing shower and that the peaks would be clear and glorious in the morning.

He wishes Rupert and David [Pye?], love and good stomachs for strange diets. Asks him to breathe a prayer of goog luck for them as they planned the great assault.

Letter to Marjorie Turner [his sister-in-law], from Kharta

Thanks her for her jolly letter which she had written on 17 May and which he had received on 27 June. He was in lovely countryside walking with the General and Geoffrey Bruce and Norton when he received it. The last ten days had been a pleasure trip with collecting as an excuse. It had been a good time but the rain had spoilt the best plans. He describes the countryside and flowers including a white primula he had found which he hoped they could bring back and name after him.

Replies to the contents of her letter. He was looking forward to getting back to England at the end of August. He planned to go to Westbrook to eat fruit. Doesn't think he would collect much more on his way back but that day he had got a fine Tibetan fox-skin for Ruth although she would probably say she couldn't wear it. Hoped he would find waiting for him in Darjeeling some small square Tibetan mats for chairs.

Letter from George Mallory to David Cranage from Yatung, Tibet

Full Transcript

My dear Cranage,

I often cast a backward thought to Syndicate Buildings & wonder how you are progressing with arrangements for the Michaelmas Term & for the Summer Meeting. Before long I expect you will be planning a holiday, & I want you to feel quite certain about me; - it is going to be very difficult to get back for the beginning of the Summer Meeting because the Everest Committee took a return ticket for me by the City Line & I discover that their boats are very slow. However one way or another I will get back before the end of August, so that you won’t need to have any qualms about arranging to go away on the 20th or 21st.

Yatung in the Chumbi Valley is our first station in Tibet, and as arrangements have to be made with the trade agent here we have a day’s rest from marching. It is a curious interlude, between the steep sub-tropical forests of Sikkim & the tableland of Tibet; this is more like an Alpine valley; its sides are more or less covered with conifers which are showing spring green: two marches hence at Phari where we get up onto the high land above 14,000 ft there will not be a tree or a bush or a blade of any green thing to be seen; & we are not particularly pleased to hear that a few days ago 2 ½ ft of snow fell up there.

The past week as you may imagine has been enjoyable enough. After the confinement of the voyage & the dust & heat of the journey across India, & the tiresomeness of packing & ‘getting off’ from Darjeeling the real thing has begun; & the best of it is a very nice lot of companions. It is a very strong party this time & I’m glad to say I feel fitter than I was two years ago.

Noel, our photographer, was asking me today about lecturing on the expedition & I told him what he had arranged – that an occasional Saturday evening during term was the only chance at any distance for me to lecture outside our own centres & that I should want to combine a lecture of that sort with one at a centre; and then ten days at the beginning of January. The reason I revert to this now is that you will probably hear shortly from Christy asking which of our centres you want to reserve for me & in which other members of the Expedition may be free to lecture; & he will want to know whether I shall be lecturing for him or for the centres in January – but I daresay that ca wait until I return. I told Christy, by the way, that he would have to find out my engagements from Richford, so he may write to him.

Please give my salaams to Williams & Sewell & remember me also to Richford & Green. And can you give me news of Parry – he seemed so seedy when I left. I hope your knee is quite better long ago & that you & Mrs Cranage are both flourishing. All good wishes to you.

Yours ever,
George Mallory

Letter to Captain [J. P.] Farrar [copied by Ruth from George's original letter]

Everest was a colossal rock peak plastered with snow with faces as steep as he had ever seen.

He and Bullock were at 1st Advanced Base Camp and he describes the North ridge, the glacier and the slopes of the first peak beyond the col which were impossibly steep. He describes the west side of the cwm, and the difficulty in reading his and Bullock’s aneroid heights, giving a reading of 18,650 ft. He thinks the face of the mountain may be completely unassailable.

He describes the summit as rock at a moderately easy angle, and further details possible access points from different directions. He had the dimmest hope of reaching the top, but they would proceed as though they meant to get there.

He estimates his own fitness as well as that of Morshead, Bullock and others. They couldn't pretend they can go on as they did in the Alps. He had found the descents difficult and had been forced to adopt a deep breathing system going down as well as up. Any exertion beyond an even, balanced pace demanded more of one’s organs than they were inclined to give. Wondered how well they could acclimate at elevation. Sets out the plans for the following day and describes the sight of the glacier.

[Letter seems to end abruptly. There may have been another page which is not in the Archive]