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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 7 1916'

Comments on the contents of her letters in which she referenced his remarks on ordering the Shakespeare book and his views on heaven and hell. He had received letters from Ursula, Benson, and David. Had been into Corbie to buy flour for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had meant to answer her letters before dinner last night but had written to Mary Ann and after dinner he was very tired. Mary Ann had asked when he was likely to be back. They thought it would be six months after an armistice was called. This was silly as quite a large number would be gradually released as soon as an armistice was fixed and before general demobilisation. It was uncertain as they they didn’t know what reply the A. C. would make to Fletcher’s application [to release him early as he was a school master]. Would need to consider the situation regarding the supply of coal over the winter. Couldn’t turn the O’Malleys out of the Holt or themselves into the cold so they might have to live at Westbrook for 10 weeks.

Was sorry she wasn’t able to see the desired exponent of Montessori but she had been successful in getting the apparatus.

Glad his letters were arriving more regularly. Had she received the one in which he asked for a plane and a chisel? If not then she needn’t bother about it.

Liked what she said about Will and Ka who were a lovely couple. It would be a joy to knot up friendships after the war. They would have a sense of wonderful freedom from a depressing load after the war. He wrote to David that he felt that the sum of all the springs was bursting upon them. The only jar to their happiness would be his personal ambitions and she would have to help him keep them in order.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from No. 1 General Base Depot, B.E. F. France

Once he began his next move he might not be able to write for a day or two. He had no news of that kind yet. He didn’t like waiting. They had been sent to see various works going on in the training ground and were supposed to censor letters in the mornings. He liked his days full and planned out so was not enjoying the waiting.

Had revolver practice and would be able to shoot a German 20 yards away if he stayed still and gave him plenty of time to aim. The Colonel talked to them all and presented them with a reprint of an article from The Times on the ‘Soldier’s Character’ which he and Ruth had read on the train from Weymouth. They were then shown the gas helmet and how to put it on and how to train a detachment to use it. It was unpleasant to use and one was generally sick with the smell of it. He took it as part of the beastliness of war.

That afternoon was fine and fresh after the rain and he walked alone in the lovely country. The camp was on a hillside overlooking Harfleur [he has drawn a diagram showing the position of the camp and the route of this walk]. The countryside was brilliant with fresh greens, beeches and poplars. He amused himself in Montvilliers until the children all crowed around demanding souvenirs and he had given them her return train ticket and two pencils. The Church was very good. A service was going on in memory of dead soldiers. There was a list in the porch of 75 men from Montvilliers who had been killed. As the town was the size of Godalming that number didn’t seem that great and if you used that as a basis French losses would total about 300,000. This was quite enough in all conscience and he knew the losses were far higher.

Was going to enclose a cutting from the French papers about the British training. Think Uncle Hawes would enjoy it and asks her to pass it on to Clutton-Brock.

The bravest thing she could do is be cheerful. Hoped to receive a letter from her tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They didn’t move on yesterday but were to go on tonight. Last two days had been idle and he had read the weekly Times and Daily Mail. They were all thrilled with the great sea fight [Battle of Jutland]. Felt the war was beginning to move, wonders about the effects of the artillery on both sides and what will happen when all the enemy attacks fail. Enemy was capable of inflicting great losses and the French had lost enormously at Verdun. They had been practically unmolested. Hopes they will move south. Germans were busy around Ypres.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

It was only 10 days until term started and he still hadn’t got his release. When was she moving into the Holt? Was sure he would come in for the move. No move would be complete without him.

She mentioned Mr Brooke several times. Thought he had met him at Brooke Hall and expected him to be quite interesting. Did she see the Head Master’s speech at the Head Master’s conference in which he said they should aim for voluntary Chapel which seemed a very long step for him. Wonders if he had read Clutton-Brock’s book and if so what he thought of it. Thought he would offer to preach in Chapel as it was important to have religious teaching other than official Church teaching.

Thanks her for the parcel of chocolates which were very good. Was sorry about the bad news of Violet’s father’s leg. Was afraid this would not increase the chances of Violet staying with them.

Had prepared his lecture for that afternoon which was on the growth of freedom in England.

Was sorry Clare had been unwell and she was to give her his love and tell her Daddy said she must be gay and happy and not cross.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 7 1917'

Was still acting as a liaison officer with the French and describes how they viewed the English. He thought they were further on in their management of artillery and thought he would learn more by reading and discussing their pamphlets.

He had been recommended for a staff lieutenancy although he didn't know what sort of job he might be offered. He wouldn't choose that sort of job as it would always make him feel uncomfortable but it would be more active which he would like so if he was compelled in that direction he would be glad. He would be sorry to leave the battery and would find more people to dislike in the staff than he did in the group.

He liked the Lieutenant and Captain. They were above average intelligence and were ready to help and converse with him. He also liked their society because if he attempted to be humorous he was more likely to be understood.

He was warm by the stove and he had a charming man servant. He had been very lucky since he had returned from leave and hardly remembered what mud was and what it was like to be in a wet trench.

Thought she might be having a bad time but there was much to be happy about with a chance of real victory soon, a new baby, and him as safe as he could be at the moment.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 7 1916'

Had been with Bell all day and had written to Trafford, Arthur Benson, Geoffrey Young and Graves.

Hadn’t been back to the front line again mainly because of changing arrangements. They were expecting a new officer and Glen back again.

Thanks her for sending thick socks which he would save for winter. Ingrown toenail was hurting him.

Mentions leave but it was still too distant. Were having lovely weather. Assumed she was still at Westbrook.

Was quite pleased with his dug out. Asks her to write on thinner paper because her letters made a bulky package and he wouldn’t want to leave them behind when he returned to England.

Had enjoyed writing to Geoffrey about the Alps. Amazed by the desire he had for that side of life again. You would think he would like something less keen after the war but he didn’t feel like that at all. There was a great life out there and they must bring it off. He felt fit and healthy thanks to the war.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, ’One march from Phari'

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I stupidly didn’t write from Phari – not realising that I should probably have no chance of sending a letter back on the way to Kampa. But it happens there may be a chance tomorrow so I will write a few lines in bed tonight. It isn’t easy to write because the site of my tent dips slightly towards the head of my bed & no amount of propping seems quite to overcome the difficulty. If I had my bed the other way round my head would be at the mouth of the tent & this would create a difficulty about light; besides it is snowing slightly & may snow more & though I don’t mind having my feet snowed upon for the sake of fresh air I am unwilling to have my head snowed upon during the night. As it is my tent is a wonderfully comfortable spot. The little table made for me by our friend in Maid’s Causeway is at my bedside & on it my reading lamp; I expect I shan’t always be able to have oil for this, but so long as I can I shall burn it. Did I tell you about the Whymper tents? We each have one to himself they have two poles /\ at each end a much more convenient plan than the other with single poles, a ground sheet is sewn into the sides so that draught & dust are practically excluded if one pitches in the right direction; and a great blessing, the tent has plenty of pockets; moreover it is by no means small – 7 ft square or very near it. The men’s tent also is a great improvement on last year’s; there is ample headroom & the men servants can pass round without hitting one on the head with the dishes the tables are wooden (3 ply wood varnished) & it is supposed that messes will be wiped off without difficulty; and they fit conveniently round the poles, the lamps which burn paraffin vapour (assisted by some clockwork arrangement inside) are also good & an enormous improvement or the dim hurricane lamps used last time. In short a certain amount of care & forethought (chiefly Norton’s) has made us much more comfortable with me spending a great deal of money.

I must tell you dearest one how wonderfully fit I have been here last days, much better at this stage I’m sure than either in ’21 or ’22. I feel full of energy & strength & walk up hill here already almost as in the Alps; I sleep long & well; my digestion is good & in short I haven’t a trouble physically, unless one may count my ankle of which I’m often conscious but the leg seems perfectly strong & I’m sure it won’t let me down.

The General’s trouble has been an irregular pulse & he & Hingston are both nervous about the effects of these altitudes on his heart – consequently he is not coming with us to Kampa Dzong (last year’s route but in 6 days instead of 4) but by another way which will allow him to camp lower. It is difficult to know how much to make of this trouble (don’t mention it) I think it is 10 to 1 he will be all right.
I can’t write much more in this position & my arms are getting cold. I was going to tell you something about our plans but I will leave that until next letter. Tibet is much warmer this year though this afternoon was pretty cold.

Much love to all & many kisses to you dearest one.

Ever your loving
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 7 1917'

Describes his observation work and how it had changed.

He had now settled into a cellar with some of the men of the battery, his servant and a cook. The Major had gone up to the guns.
He had made a make shift fire and cooking pot and they had cooked the sausages she had sent. His servant had brought up her parcel which was a godsend - a cake, rug and the best torch he had seen and exactly what he wanted. He was up on the guns in the snow between 11.30pm and 2am.

His ankle had gone again and he could only limp around. He hated being half crocked.

He had lost a secret code book and was frantically looking for it. Usually he would say it was lost in the move as he seldom lost things but a higher authority wanted it and he would probably be shot at dawn.

Was glad Ralph's measles were only German ones. Was sorry she had such a hunt for his tent and hoped he would use it now.

Comments on the actions of America and gives his opinion about the President.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth, My ‘note’ of this morning turned out almost a letter nevertheless it seems that I owe you a great deal of information and this is a chance of supplying it. I am taking Quinn’s place at the guns for a very slow job, as, owing to certain rearrangements he is superintending some more digging work. It is now 3.15pm and we have to fire off 60 rounds or so by 9pm so you may imagine how slow I feel this job to be. I am sitting beside the one gun which is to fire.

How much have I told you already about the recent fighting? I have an idea that much remains to be said but I hardly know what. The conditions just here are very different from those when the scrap began. That day was one of suspense and excitement; a continuous flow of tales collected from wounded men walking from the road kept us informed of what was going on and one made out a story, partly true. But now the intense fighting is south of us and though we may still support the infantry as we did yesterday it is not apparently those on our immediate front and they don’t evacuate their wounded along this road – so we feel a trifle ‘out of it’. Possibly that state of affairs won’t last forever. And for us the salient fact is that we are no longer working out a prearranged plan matured perhaps months ago // but rather on plans formed in a day to fit the occasion consequently we have little warning and often have to open fire at a moment’s notice.

This is what you would expect but none the less a condition of action that makes severe demands on everyone; so many things have to be considered that for perfect accuracy there must always be a short delay before the figures worked out in the office from the map can be telephoned through to the guns; and then the ‘Nos. 1’ or ‘Gun Captains’ as they are called in coast defence have to be made to understand the figures and its wonderful how difficult that process seems to be in some cases and how often they make mistakes. And then before a gun can be fired it has often to be turned about in a confined space and on muddy ground – so that altogether you may imagine that when we are ordered to open fire at once on XYZ it requires a cool head to avoid agitation and that’s just what Lithgow hasn’t got – he has a clear head and can work quickly and accurately, but when he comes along in a tremendous fluster to inquire why the guns aren’t ready it requires some presence of mind to keep cool oneself. It must be added that Lithgow has been better in this respect during these last two days – and we have been quicker on the guns too. My impression is that our Nos. 1 are not a very adaptable lot and don’t easily send themselves to new conditions; also some of them haven’t had sufficient training and two are capable of any folly. We never let them fire the 1st round of a series without making certain that they have the right angles on the sights, so no serious mistakes can be made that way.

These remarks from the mark // are written on Saturday morning. I’m glad to say that during the incessant firing of yesterday all went well. I only had two guns to look after during the most exacting periods instead of four as often happens when I am on duty; it is a much better arrangement to have an Officer for each section when we have to fire all guns rapidly at an exacting target, and I find no difficulty in taking charge of them properly: but four in a space of 120 yards along that slippery bank and in the din of traffic and field gun fire are a handful.

Well my dearest one I had a pretty hard time before I turned in last night. My day off duty turned out more laborious than usual in the end from the time I stopped writing this letter, because the work on the guns suddenly ‘bucked up’. I hadn’t a moment’s rest till 4am when I lay down for an hour and a half. And then began a day beside which the 1st day of the offensive appears as a mere whiff of smoke – I refer only to our own experiences but so far as artillery is concerned the whole attack must have been far more vigorous. It certainly seemed to be so judging from what we heard here – that was partly because we heard so very much more than we liked of certain field guns which fired over our heads but there was far more big gun fire too in this sector. The infantry were to attack at 8.0; the bombardment began soon after 7.0 and this battery had to open fire at 7.20. Before that the guns had to be calibrated – i.e. to fire on a known point with the particular lot of cordite which each separate gun was to use – so as to get any correction for elevation or line which might be required and as there was a difficulty about communication from the observer’s position involving the use of signals – flag waving (known as the flapper) with morse code – we had to start that operation at 6am.

It's no use attempting a detailed description of yesterday. We were firing all day but the strenuous parts of the day were up till 11.0am and from about 3.30pm to 9.0pm I was on the guns all the time except when I was relieved for meals. The operations appear to have been successful and again we see groups of German prisoners passing periodically as a gunner remarked to me ‘a mixed lot like our own; some fine soldiers and some that look as if they could hardly hold a rifle – and they all look as though they were straight from prison!

I think I might have been very tired yesterday. I had such variable moods. Mostly I was very happy and in the slack time after lunch sitting on a pile of empty cartridge boxes rained on at intervals I had a notable idea for a book – really quite the most pleasing idea I have ever had – a form which would give me scope to say all that I wish to say about life, ethics and education quite pleasantly and humorously. I will tell you more about it if it occupies my thoughts any more. On the other hand I was very nervy.
I read your letter in bed last night and that was a great joy four of them and half of one of my own! I’m very glad you get your friends and mine down to Westbrook – it is very agreeable for them and good for your family too. Mildred seems to be delighted by Mary Ann and Ursula – our discovery has been embosomed. I should love to have to have seen your father write ‘The Professor’ - an appropriate nickname. It’s a great matter of luck and first impressions whether such meetings ‘come off’ but I’m not in the least surprised and I think its creditable to you father – there’s a good deal for an elderly man to put up with in Owen.

I am interested in your account of the meeting you attended. Please tell me exactly what you said in your brave speech. I’m delighted to hear that you spoke. But I’m altogether ‘assommé’ as the French say – knocked down by your calm assumption that I am not a Christian – this after how many months of married life? I‘m blowed if I’ve the energy to write you another philippic proving how good and Xian I am. I always thought your own standard a high one and couldn’t expect to live up to that but if it’s not high enough to let a poor humble gunner like me into the fold but must be damnably low and at all events I can say I’ve more respect than that for Christian teaching so there!

And I won’t write any more – not in this spasm perhaps later in the day. But will this letter ever reach you?
I suppose we shall meet again one of these days perhaps for a period things will be more quiet and then!! But is does seem distant.

Ever so much love – your loving George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 6 1917'

He had received two good letters from her. He thought it very, very likely that the war would end that year but they had been disappointed before. It was worse for her as she was just awaiting for it to end whereas he was doing things. She was also doing less than usual at present [Ruth was expecting their second child]. Thought she ought to keep on her work for the Mothers Welcome if it didn’t overburden her. He hadn’t thought of Venice lately although they came back to that sort of happiness when they met.

He hadn’t had a very exciting day. He had been looking at maps in the morning and then later observing from a tree. He didn’t know the lay of the land and the man sent to help him wasn’t much use but he had enjoyed himself. He walked down to another battery for tea and was pleased to see new primrose leaves.

March 7 – a dull day but he was planning on going out to an observation post to look around. A great advantage of battery life was the opportunity to get out into natural daylight to visit places.

He hadn’t written to anyone but her for ages and he must try. He hadn’t heard any news from Charterhouse and asks after Mr Fletcher. He owed Hoenni a letter and would send a letter to Mary for Ruth to forward. He had received a parcel of sausages and would be glad of parcels now as when it was muddy the lorries didn’t get through and they lived on bully beef and biscuits.

He didn’t go up to the observation post in the end as it was too misty but would go up tomorrow and stay for two days which he would enjoy but it would probably rain.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Makes arrangements for visiting her at the weekend. Weather the day before had been very sultry and he had slept in the afternoon, then gone for a walk, lain on a grassy bank and eaten blackberries before the thunderstorm came.

Had been doing a lot of reading including an important chapter in the League of Nations on ‘The Economies of Peace’. Recommends she read the book describing it as ‘the best war book’. Had also been reading Rupert Brooke’s American letters which had a very interesting introduction about him by Henry James.

Was sorry he wouldn’t see Ursula again but describes the ways she irritated him although she was ‘a good woman’.

Thought he would take up Fearon’s invitation to afternoon tea describing being prepared for confirmation by him and what his wife was like. They used to call him the 'Bear'. Hoped to have a pleasant detour on his bicycle on the way back and have a bathe in the river.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 6 1916'

Unpleasant afternoon spend at an inquiry into which battery had been firing into their own trenches. Describes why it was all so hateful.

Had enjoyed working on the ante-room. Had gone into Albert to get a stove to warm them but had been unsuccessful. Had enjoyed a chat with the old woman in the ironmongery and come away with another oil lamp.

Had received the good news of the capture of the Combles by the French.

Comments on her letter and the childish activities that can be enjoyed by the seaside. Asks if the seaside made any difference to Clare.

Was lying on his bed in pyjamas. All their dug-outs had been christened for the convenience of the guards. His was called ‘Fathom Five’. Was off to sleep as breakfast was at 7.30am and he had very poor sleep in a chair the night before.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Asks Ruth to send some curtains for the Officers' mess and gives dimensions and opinion about colour and material. Describes the Officers' mess which was in a converted truck and includes two drawings showing the plan and the elevation.

The sleeping quarters were less glorious and comfortable.

Sends the proofs of his photographs which she can choose from although he didn't think they were very good.

He regretted the lack of solitude He could stay up later if it was warmer or if he didn't have a cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 6 1916'

Nothing further had happened as bad weather was preventing movement. Very wet and muddy getting to an from the observation post. Had been with Lithgow in the morning working on the observations of the previous day and then working the guns for Bell who was observing. It was a long business as their line was constantly out of order. The Captain’s Office was a deep hole which also served as a bed chamber and was connected byt a covered passage to where two signallers worked the telphone, slept, and ate.

Was being sent on a commission to [censor has cut out the name] where he would see friends at the regrettable garden and talk to the lady of the omlettes, buy some flour for the men and plenty of papers.

Wishes for letters from her as they helped to make her qualities become a person.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 6 1916'

Had received nine letters from her. Glad to hear of his friends coming into her life. Very pleasant to hear of her making a friend of Robert who had stayed at Westbrook. The Headmaster didn’t encourage Robert’s friendship with Johnstone and was not disposed to let him go out very much on the grounds that he was somewhat spoilt and didn’t get on well in the house. Advised her to write to the head of Saunderites House using a dictionary [Ruth was dyslexic] to request a visit. She could also tell Johnstone that he would be very glad to receive a letter from him.

He had heard from Rooper that Clements had left Charterhouse and he was sorry as he was the one really interesting boy he knew.
Her visit to the Reade’s seems to have been a success. Kar Cox was a charming person but he didn’t know her as well as some of his friends notably David and Geoffrey Keynes. Didn’t know Ward but he was a friend of Rupert Brooke. Was sure Bridget was one of the best of people.

Comments on Arthur Clutton-Brock’s speech which Ruth had recounted to him.

Only bitter feelings he had towards Mr Rendall was that he wanted to avoid a bore. He felt in his bones the ill bred pomposity of Langton probably because he had offended his vanity by having too little regard for his opinions.

Was glad she was getting to know Mrs Brock. News about Kit was really bad and must have upset them very much.

He hadn’t written to her much lately as he was in a sociable mood and spent time talking after meals. He had played bridge. He went to bed at 9.30pm as it was difficult to be comfortable outside bed. He read whilst his feet got warm. He never had night work which was a blessing but was liable to be woken at 6.30am.

Two parcels of clothes had arrived. She had chosen well and he felt luxurious. The men didn’t go short of warm clothes but they didn’t have oil stoves in their dugouts nor a dry mess room. He drew the line at a hot water bottle as it would make him feel like a pig. He would be quite cosy once he got a curtain.

Lithgow had applied for special leave to attend to business and would probably get it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Le Havre, France

Asks her to address letters to 2nd Lt G. Leigh-Mallory, No. 1 Base Depot, B. E. F.

There was little to tell. He expected to move on shortly and spend a few days in another big town on the way to the front. It was a lovely part of the world but he hadn’t explored it yet. That morning they had gone to see various infantry works and that afternoon made a very long expedition to Le Havre to get certain articles from a hangar in the middle of the docks.

He was living in a hut with Smith, Green and Satchwell. He acts as the cook’s agent for them in the town [he could speak French]. He calls it a hut but it was really a little canvas shelter. His camp kit was satisfactory. Had a hot and cold shower that morning. They didn’t much like waiting there but he supposed he would receive plenty of shocks before long.

He was feeling sleepy so apologises for the feeble letter. Wonders when he will receive one from her. This place was 4 miles out of Le Havre, was very pretty and was situated on the side of a hill overlooking the junction of two wooded valleys. He was amazed by the care that had been taken to make the place agreeable.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [first page missing, reference to a hand drawn map in the surviving letter which may have been on the first page]

Brief Summary
Outlines plans for reconnaissance with Bullock including setting up an advanced camp. Describes Everest. Had taken photos of Everest with Bullock. Howard-Bury and Herron had arrived at Base Camp. Had been cutting steps. Climbed to what they believed was the 2nd highest peak ever climbed (23,500ft). The tent and bedding were uncomfortable and it was cold. Describes what he wears to keep warm.

Detailed Summary
They planned to explore westwards to the W.N.W. cwm and refers to a hand drawn map [missing]. They planned to make advanced camp with Mummery tents where only two peaks had been mapped or observed before. They had to explore eastward for a view of the great east arete of Everest. He describes the general shape of Everest assessing the possibilities of climbing it - in the south was a fierce rock arete, the snow col, the west cwm, the summit ridge, the east face had steep hanging glaciers and from a distant view looked impossible. Describes the East and North aretes and concludes that the approach to the col from the west looked bad and they would have to explore the other side. The N.W. arete looked very formidable with much steep rock about 23,000 ft. Unless the face on the other side provided easy ways to turn the difficulties they didn't have much hope here. The west face had very steep rocks towards the summit.

Everest was immeasurably bigger and higher than any mountain he had seen in the Alps. From a mountaineer’s point of view no more appalling sight could be imagined. He reports on the reconnaissance so far and of establishing the camp. He followed a clean stream and wanted to go further in their search for water and then saw a little lake’. They crossed a glacier the next day [again referencing a map, perhaps on the missing first page]. He had an interesting expedition with Bullock and the porters. It was remarkable that the descent was always very tiring.

The next day he tried to get high up on a ridge and take photos with Bullock, reaching their maximum heights. He had been cutting steps at 21,000 ft. The following day's plans were interrupted when they received news that Howard-Bury and Heron had arrived at Base Camp. They had enjoyed a pleasant slack day and made plans to select a main camp location. He and Bullock took photographs of Everest and some of its neighbours. He describes the challenges of climbing, and cutting steps in the ice. They reached the top registering 23,500 ft. They thought this was he second highest peak which had been climbed. He refers to the climbing records of [Tom] Longstaff and the Duke of Abruzzi. When they were better acclimatised and could start from a higher camp they would be able to go a great deal higher.

[The letter continues later] - All the driving power came from him. The tent was cramped, the bedding was uncomfortable and the evenings were cold. Describes his clothing in detail. He kept warm enough. He was looking forward to the trek back to Darjeeling and drawing nearer to her. He was not depressed as it was an exhilarating life on the whole and he was wonderfully fit. There would be something to be told even if they didn't climb Everest, which he didn't think they would.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, [no date]

Full Transcript

Just a note dearest Ruth to let you know I am alright. I hoped to write you a proper letter this morning in time for posting but have been too busy. You’ve no need to be anxious and you shall have a proper letter written today.
I was distracted yesterday by many small troubles in my work here and that’s why I left it to this morning. The dispatch rider is waiting but for other things besides this note.

I wonder what folk in England are thinking about the fighting here. I suppose they must be generally disappointed – if they think of the initial success in Champagne last September so much greater than this. But the point is that we are pressing the Hun on all fronts and if it’s a slow business here the hope is that we shall make him fight to exhaustion. There’s good evidence of his lack of men and that must tell if we attack sufficiently. There’s every sign of such determination in these parts.

I didn’t see a French paper yesterday. There was a charming rumour which I met to cheer me in the course of a dismal expedition in a thunderstorm the day before. I’ll tell you if I hear any more of it – it concerned the French more than ourselves – they have done extremely well in their sector, reaching their objective very quickly with slight losses.

The feeling that we are supporting infantry in the most direct fashion makes a great difference to me now. One requires so intensely that all the shooting should be absolutely right. Life is strung up and there’s nothing slack about it now though there must necessarily be idle times.

My chief interest today is the starting of a canteen for the men - a dry canteen for selling cigarettes, tobacco, chocolate and biscuits – those things primarily. We ought to have arranged it before, but I suppose the feeling that we might at any moment be leaving here prevented us. Anyway the discovery of a large wholesale canteen, within reach has made the idea bear fruit and I have bought about 150 shillings worth of goods as a start. The men are rich as they have no opportunity of spending their pay here, so I expect the concern to prosper and be very welcome to the men – and no doubt my stocks will have to be increased enormously.

We have had wretched weather here the last two days. It was beautiful for the beginning of our attack but broke down badly the day before yesterday with a thunderstorm. It is cold now and I have no feeling of summer. Warm sunshine is so much a comfort in itself that it makes up for everything.

Now Goodbye. All my love dear one, George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 6 1916' [it was actually written in 1917]

He had been hoping and hoping for this news [that she was expecting their second child] and they wouldn’t worry whether it was a girl or boy.

He wasn’t sure how to describe his job. Robinson had spent the first two days telling him there wasn’t much for him to do. He felt Robinson was impressed with himself in the role of adjutant and was anxious to do everything himself. His role was to look after the Colonel which meant accompanying him on his rounds and being generally informed. He had taken the Colonel up to see where they observed from. They had also ridden out to see an alternative battery position. He had only ridden a horse once in the last 10 years but it was a tame business. Thought their children should learn to ride.

He would have to get to know the other batteries in the group which would be interesting. He was in charge of the living quarters and would probably have to run the mess although McLeod, the signalling officer, was doing that at present. It was a footling old woman’s job. He hoped he could make a better job for himself. He liked the men there especially the Colonel and McLeod.

Wondered if anything would come of the strained situation between Austria and Germany.

Had to write letters to mother, Avie, Trafford and Geoffrey Keynes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 6 1916'

It was almost lunch time and he was just up as he had a beastly cold. He had felt feverish when he played Bridge with Platnauer and then he had been out with the sergeant major in the motor lorry to get supplies which was a slow business. He went to bed early and took two vegetable laxative pills and was feeling better.

Bell went off yesterday in very high spirits. He would get a few days at home before his course began. Was surprised to hear that Ralph wasn’t coming out for a time before commanding a battery. Dunbar was staying there for his week as battery commander. Lithgow was in Amiens today.

Asks what ‘political thunderbolt’ means, that Lloyd George wants to get rid of Balfour or Asquith?

Earl was going home as his kidney weakness had been giving him a lot of trouble.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Friday

He was leaving Pen y Pass that day to travel to meet his father and Trafford, although he still hadn’t heard where they would be. He describes the previous days climbing which included walking over Mynedd Mawr which had a wonderful view of all the Snowdon group, stopping for a cup of tea in Snowdon village before walking over the flank of Snowdon and the top of Lliwedd getting back at 8.30pm. Ursula was a good walker and showed no signs of having been unduly exhausted. Was sorry Cottie had not been able to go with them. The group had a great deal of fun and good talk. Bertie Graham was a solid good natured Scot with a real sense of humour. He liked Owen but thought he was a professional pessimist and it was a pity he was so unfit. He hadn’t been reading the papers carefully but it was a comfort that the German losses must have been very big.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had been given a useful job to do – inspecting old kit to see if it could still be used. Had spoken to a bootmaker to see if any of the boots could be repaired. There were many socks which had been cut because the men were supposed to darn small holes in their own socks.

He had been into Winchester yesterday evening but the choir were on holiday so there would be no music at evensong and he had left to do a few small jobs in the town. He had also been to bathe.

Describes a visit to Du Ponbet, a French Swiss master who was a good scholar but was critical of him. Du Ponbet wasn’t interested in him beyond asking which rank he was to be place in.

Weather was stuffy and they might have a thunderstorm. Was depressed by the Riga news which would buck up the Germans. It was possible the Germans would succeed in forcing Russia into a separate peace. With all their disorganisation Russians were good almost for nothing.

Hopes her baby would arrive soon.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 5 1916'

Had received two letters from her. The Garretts used to live at Aldburgh and had a sailing boat there. Describes how Uncle Lawrence, Aunt Patty, and Doris would react to a boat.

Had been in the observation post yesterday using visual signaling and it had been rather an enjoyable day. Had arranged to furnish the new ante-room which was for reading and writing [sketch provided]. Describes layout and that it would seat 3 comfortably or 4 at a pinch.

Wood was getting scarce and much time was wasted collecting it. Had improved his dug out with steps to his bed and a square self next to his bed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The post had become erratic again and, as he didn’t have a letter from her to respond to, he didn’t feel like corresponding as there was nothing much going on. The most exciting event that had happened was his visit to a lagoon with Wilson and Knibbs. These were a series of large ponds on the other side of the river. He had previously discovered a boat there which turned out to be a lumpy old barge with two improvised oars and one seat for the oarsman. They explored the lagoon and then decided to transfer it to the river which was hard work. They planned to go down river and visit a friend of Wilson’s. There were obstacles near where the French were reconstructing a railway bridge over the river and they had to get them to help partially demolish a wooden foot bridge to let them pass. They did so willingly and were amused by their performance. When they reached their destination they found the man they had come to see was out.

Today was wet and he had only left the truck to go to A. [Arras] to interview the joiner about some windows. The Major hadn’t gone to Versailles in the end. Wilson had left to go on a three week gunnery course. Glad it wasn’t him. The left section were still at the Base. Hoped they would come up soon as it would be amusing to see them.

Frequently thought of their future at the Holt with relish but how would she solve the preliminary difficulties of fuel and servants etc. He was impatient about the delay in publishing terms and hated to think of the war lasting a day longer than it needed to. Had rather lost interest in the war and politics at present although that would change when peace talks started.

Wanted to hear more about her trip to London. What books did she find in the London Library? Thanks her for looking for articles for him.

Sends his congratulations to her father on his recovery and asks when he was likely to walk again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Had been very busy firing in a high wind which was exhilarating after the comparative idleness they had had lately. Yesterday he had been to the vegetable market in Amiens early to get potatoes.

Was now down in the mess having just finished censoring letters. Had just found a letter for her in his overcoat pocket which would mean she had to wait for a letter. Tells her not to be anxious as if he had been killed she would have heard at once.

He had heard from Trafford. He was in the next Corps to he hoped to be able to see him. Trafford was very pleased by Ruth’s visit to Doris. Was surprised that they couldn’t afford a nurse as Trafford was getting very good pay.

Two good evenings - Platnauer was quite a success and last night he had got talking to Bell till 10.30.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Toledo Club’ [Letterhead]

He had been staying with the Burrs who were a lovely couple [he describes them].

He had given a lecture at Harvard where the audience had received him well and were ‘evidently thrilled and amused’. People over there were really impressed by the story and he felt the lectures had been worthwhile even though the number had remained small. The other lecture in Boston had been attended by members of the Rucksack Club, Pinnacle Club, and the Appalachian Mountain Club. He had dined before the lecture and shaken hands with an incredible number of people. He preferred the New Englanders to the New Yorkers. A public lecture was going to be arranged in Boston later and the clubs wanted him too but very few would pay the price.

He left Boston on Friday after being interviewed by the press and travelled to Philadelphia for a lecture on Saturday with a big audience of at least 1200. On Monday he took a train to Toledo for an evening lecture and comments on the architecture he saw. He was travelling overnight on the train to Buffalo and hoped to see Niagara the following day.

Thanks Clare for her letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from ‘Kampa Dzong’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes events of 1- 5 June and the difficulties faced on their journey, culminating with the death of Dr Kellas.

Detailed Summary
Dr Kellas had died that afternoon after his condition had worsened. Describes events leading up to his death including being carried from Phari, telling of his, Bullock, Heron and Wollaston’s efforts to aid and comfort Dr Kellas and plans for burial the next morning.

Describes his own fitness and that they had reached 17,500 ft in elevation, describing the views and the wind. Shares a tent with Bullock and was sleeping well.

[Letter continues later] - provides a recap of the last few days, 1-5 June. They are in the tableland of Tibet and the first stage of their journey was done. Sikkim was a formidable country to travel in. The government mules performed poorley so they had hired Tibetan mules. He describes crossing the Jelep La where he was mountain sick despite all his Alpine experience, the Chumbi Valley, the change of scenery from a tropical to a drier climate, the flowers which covered the hillsides, and seeing Tibetans and houses, as well as stopping at the English trading station at the village of Yatung. Describes the plains and mountain valleys, and of being surprised by the sight of a steep snow mountain traversing up alone at an incredible distance away. Phari proved they had come to a new world. Describes the town, its shops and animal inhabitants, its living arrangements at close quarters and how he slept in a bungalow outside the town.

When leaving Phari the real difficulties of transport began as they turned westward to Kampa Dzong and had to haggle with local herdsman for donkeys. The next stage of travel was dreary, yet he felt fortunate there was a snow mountain to be looked at. Mentions his thoughts on the appearance of Chomolhari (about 24,000 ft). The country was beautiful, but their great enemy was the wind.

No one would give much for their chances of getting up Mount Everest. He evaluates the physical conditions of those in the party, including Dr Kellas [written before his death], Wheeler, Raeburn, Heron, Howard-Bury, Bullock, Wollaston, reporting they had all been better since they had opened their stores at Phari. They planned to meet Moreshead at Kompa Dzong on about 5 June.