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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Paris

Had just got in from a concert which had gone on for a long time. He had made friends with a group of young French people but was rather desolate when they had to part. Had been to a sermon in an interesting church. He fell in with a Frenchman on the way to the theatre and they kept company for the evening. Was annoyed at first that it wasn’t The Barber of Seville but Rossini’s opera-comique but it very closely followed the dialogue and the music was charming. Was feeling rather hungry as eating in restaurants was very expensive.

Monday morning - had spent the evening eating with pleasant companions in a cheap restaurant. He always made the first advances as the Parisians didn’t expect him to speak French and they didn’t speak English. His fluency was increasing. Was going to enquire about trains at the Gard du Nord and then go back to the Bibliotèque Nationale.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 12 1916'

He was exceptionally busy. Glen was due to have an operation and Bell was away for four days rest. They had three new officers and Lithgow was unwell with a slight chill. Describes the new officers.

Rest cure was where two detachments at a time go off to spend four days in a delightful country place. His turn was next. He had designs on Amiens Cathedral.

Asks if she was still intending to visit the East Coast. If so asks her to choose a place well armed with anti Zepp guns. He was very please about the fall of Georgia and it made the Austrian situation worse because more men would be needed to defend that front.

Likes the flowers in his dug-out and asks if she could make him some pot pouri.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pateley Bridge

Hopes she wasn’t disappointed by the scrap he wrote that morning [see MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/12]. The more he thinks about Mildred’s engagement the better hopes he has and thinks that a few years difference in age shouldn’t matter [Ruth’s sister Mildred married Robert Morgan].

He was enchanted by his visit to Fountains Abbey which stirred his imagination and made him ask questions about the daily life of the monks and wish he were a poet. He took twelve photos and his camera had lain unused in his rucksack whilst he was in Wales. He had been talking with a French girl who was a teacher in a girls’ school in Scarborough and was waiting for a permit to cross to friends in Ireland. She absolutely refused to believe that he was married. He might go to Bolton Abbey or Wensleydale and Jervaulx Abbey the following day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Had planned shortcut but went further south by mistake. Very cold and tired. Warm start next day but then a bitter wind. All felt affects of marching at altitude. Next camp was 3-4 miles from Ta Tsang, warmer night. Warmer next day, bathed in a stream. Country was beautiful. Been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Hair cut very short. Describes what he was wearing.

Detailed Summary
Too much repetition of experiences. Real difference was that it was earlier in the season than the previous year. Planned to take a short cut involving four marches instead of six with 100 animals, while 20 yaks and donkeys took the longer journey but this depended on the grazing available. Morshead had gone to fix the gaming ground. About 5 miles from Phari they diverged from last year’s course and mistakenly went further south. It was bitterly cold but they following the transport to some place the mule-men knew of. Halted in the afternoon with many of the men demoralised. Just about got the tents up to provide some shelter for those who had been knocked out by cold and fatigue. Some sort of a meal was produced before they turned in. He went to look at the animals standing in untidy rows with the snow lying on their backs. The mule-men were squatting round in a circle behind some sort of shelter cheerful and contented. A little later he heard the jangling of animals bells and saw through the tent door some bullocks which had started late, following a figure in his Tibetan garment hitched up round the waist and red Tibetan boots.

They had a cheerful start. He preferred riding mules over ponies. He was the only one to have secured a mule at Phari and they had mostly been ridden by the men servants and Gurkha orderlies. He had brought a saddle and bridle and his beast was shared among four of them, though it was too cold to ride unless he was nearly exhausted. On the second march, they halted at a pass for a mild tiffin. The sun was warm and they were out of the wind. Coming onto another desolate plane the wind caught them. It was a more trying march than any of last year’s although they did very well under the circumstances. Norton organised a hot meal and he had shared an 80 lb tent with Strutt and Morshead. The march had been too long for this stage in proceedings. May not feel the altitude when they were doing nothing but they had all felt it on the march of 22 miles between 16,000 and 17,000 ft. The effect on him was stupidity and his head was invaded by a slight headache and a dull torpor.

The camp was in an attractive spot 3 or 4 miles from Ta Tsang [town] where they had camped the previous year. They had to rest so had a whole day of idleness. The night was warmer. The temperature had been down to zero the night before.

The next 20 miles did not seem too long and Kampa Dzong seemed to have a milder climate but the west wind had been strong and quite cold. The yaks were expected to arrive and then they would be off again following the old stages.

His letter was not a very cheerful account. They had a warm day and he enjoyed bathing before breakfast in the little stream. The country was often beautiful, more beautiful than last year. Believed there was more moisture in the atmosphere and more colour in the landscape. The view from the dzong [fort] above the camp of the two arms of the plain stretched away to the snow mountains [the Gyanka Range - Everest beyond was not visible]. Made him feel that Tibet after all was somehow friendly.

Had been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Morshead’s servant, who accompanied him again this year cut his hair with clippers so he had very little left.

Had been writing the letter in the mess tent for the sake of a high chair and a table for his ink pot. Describes the clothes he was wearing - silk and wool underclothes, a flannel shirt, a sleeved waistcoat, my lambskin coat, a Burberry coat overall – below plus fours and two pairs of stockings under sheepskin boots. He was just sufficiently warm except in the fingertips which touch the paper.

Postscript: He was still very fit in spite of fresh cold at Phari.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 12 1917'

They had had a good move and everyone was sufficiently accommodated. Some were in a tent. The cow byre he had found had been converted into a mess as the pigsty next door was good for a kitchen. He had found a shanty and been able to sleep there and as it had a stove could cook his dinner. Dunbar was sharing it with him. It did have a table and he had put her cloth over it. He had received an Easter card from Brother Giles who was in hospital after an operation to his knee. The Major was in a brick cabin near the guns which was a warm place and very convenient.

He had got up early to set the line for firing so the guns could begin. Describes the news they had heard about the advance and the break throughs on the Hindenburg line.

Was glad she was so pleased about the Americans coming into the war. It was an assurance of success. Was more worried now about the German submarines. Everything depended on the Western Front and it was there that they had to win the war. Wishes the weather wasn't against them.

His ankle was no better. He could get around in gumboots but not boots and he was doing no observation work.

He was enjoying life. He was getting on very well with the Major who trusted him and thought him useful. He might find himself in some dirty rubbish heap but he positively enjoyed the fun of getting the best of it. He had torn down a wooden shelter to provide materials for the wall of the hut.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [two pages missing]

Brief Summary
Had been feeling weak with a sore throat and Bullock had continued to search for the valley without him. Morshead had joined him in camp after Bullock had left. Bullock sent message that he was on wrong track. Next day feeling better so he and Morshead set out to join up with Bullock. Continued their search for a route taking photographs on the way. Had to send back to base camp for more rations but there was a shortage.

Detailed Summary

[Letter starts on page ‘3’] - Three days march to a new mountain base camp. [Aug 11 written in the margin]. Hoped he was feeling fitter as he had been feeling abdominally weak and had a sore throat.

13 August [written in the margin] - Bullock had gone on alone to find the valley. It was a depressing moment after all his work to reconnoitre Everest as it seemed like he would miss the climax. He was sorry he had to hand over the responsibility of deciding the line of assault. On the same morning that Bullock left, the surprise arrival of Morshead brought companionship. That evening he had received a chit from Bullock saying that the valley he was following ended too soon in a high pass. He was on the wrong track.

14 August - He was feeling stronger and went with Morshead to follow Bullock up the valley. They were lucky with the weather and were able to see both Everest and the North Peak. The topography was difficult to make out but there was a continuous way from the valley to the high snow col which they had seen the other day from their peak (21,500 ft) and it was possible to advance. He thought this was the right way to Everest.

15 August - They trekked through the valley with their lighter tents and met Bullock’s party at the valley junction. Due to bad weather they could see nothing of what lay in front of them and came to a stop short of the point he had wanted to reach. Snow was falling and there was cloud cover.

16 August [written in the margin] - They had proceeded up a stony hillside to the ridge above them for a better view. They followed the ridge to a summit of 20,500 ft or 1,700 ft above their camp. There was a splendid view point from where they could see where they should go. They had paused for nearly an hour taking photos in all directions. He describes their decent nearly a thousand feet and of crossing a crevasse. They had been in clouds for two hours and could see nothing. He was feeling far from well with a headache and he was inclined to go no further which was shared by the rest of the party. He went down the glacier and completed a valuable piece of reconnaissance by finding the shortest way back to camp. They had a late night. Rations had to be summoned from base camp. Two sahibs and three porters with two days supplies were sent to reach their snow col and look over into the cwm of the N.W. of Everest to see the glacier running down northward and follow it wherever it might go and thus solve the mystery of its exit.

17 August - The porters returned from the base camp and told them there were no rations there. He suspected some trickery on Gyalzen’s part. They established a higher camp on a shelf under an ice cliff (19,900 ft). Snow continued into the evening. The porters returned from base camp before dark with barely a day’s supplies and so they had to abandon their plans of going down the unknown glacier. Morshead’s men were able to spare enough food for one porter, so they took young Nimya [Nyima] Sherpa and sent the others back down.

18 August - Made preparations for an early start but were held up by Morehead’s cook. They wore their snowshoes to cross a glacier by the last of the moonlight and despite the lingering mist they could see the peaks and steer on a solid mountain side. After dawn it was difficult to see and impossible to make out the snow surfaces and the ascents and descents were equally unexpected. Crevasses forced them to the right until they were confronted by the icefall and had to climb rocks covered with 2 or 3 inches of snow and cold to the fingers but not difficult to climb. While they breakfasted the mist thickened and they went on about 9.20 am with Bullock leading. The heat returned like a furnace. He had been able to maintain an even rhythm even on the steeper parts by exhaling and inhaling once for each step but now he had to proceed rather differently. Describes how he paced himself with his breathing on the steeper slopes and the difficulty of walking in snowshoes, once causing him to ‘capsize completely’. They reached the col and he describes what he could see through the mist.

[Letter ends, no sign off].

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from No. II Camp, Everest

Full Transcript

My dearest girl,

It was a great joy last night to get a letter from you dated March 22 – you may imagine how short of news I have been. I was particularly glad to learn that you have practically completed the sale of the Holt – I have been so much afraid that you would have anxiety about that. I also had delightful letters from Clare and Beridge – how Clare is growing up! I was much touched by B’s interest in my ship and much interested by her weeping over the story of Joseph – that doesn’t surprise me about her at all. Curiously enough I was wondering only a day or two back how much of O.T. [Old Testament] stories they were hearing and in particular whether they knew the story of Joseph’s dream.

Now I must give you a brief record of the days that have passed since leaving the B.C. It has been a very trying time with everything against us. The porters have seemed from the start short of acclimatisation and up against it.

May 3 Irvine, Odell, Hazard and self to Camp I

Half the porters lagged badly. Having added a good deal of stuff on their own account to what we had given them to carry they had big loads. I decided to leave 5 loads not urgently required at I and have five men to carry all the porters blankets etc.

May 4 The N.C.O. (Ghurkha) at I was very incompetent in getting these things distributed. However the result was good and the men must have gone well. Irvine and I had gone on ahead and reached II at about 12.30; we had hardly finished a leisurely tiffin when the first porters arrived. Camp II looked extraordinarily uninviting although already inhabited by an N.C.O. and 2 others in charge of the stores (150 loads or so) which had already been carried up by Tibetans. A low irregular wall surrounded a rough compound, which I was informed was the place for the sahibs tents, and another already covered by the fly of a Whymper tent was the home of the N.C.O. The sahibs compound was soon put sufficiently in order, two Whymper tents were pitched there for the four of us while a wonderful brown tent of Noel’s was pitched for him. No tents were provided here for porters the intention was to build comfortable huts or ‘sangars’ as we call them using the Whymper fly’s for roof, but no sangars had yet been built and accomodation for 23 men is not so easily provided in this way. However I soon saw that the ground would allow us to economise walls & Irvine and I with 3 or 4 men began building oblong sangar, the breadth only about 7ft; other men joined in after resting. It is an extraordinary thing to watch the conversion of men from listlessness to some spirit of enterprise; a very little thing will turn the scale; on this occasion the moving of a huge stone to form one corner started the men’s interest and later we sang! And so these rather tired children were persuaded to do something for their comfort – without persuasion they would have done nothing to make life tolerable. Towards 3.0 pm Odell and I (Irvine seemed tired after prodigious building efforts) went on to reconnoitre next day’s march over the glacier. We began by going along the stones of the true left bank, the way of 1922, but the going was very bad, much more broken than before. To our left on the glacier we could see the stones of a moraine appearing among the great ice pinnacles. We gained this by some amusing climbing retraced our steps a little way along it towards Camp II and then on the far side reached a hump from which the whole glacier could be seen rising to the south; from a point quite near us it was obvious that there could be no serious obstacle and that point we saw could be gained in a simple way: it only remained therefore to make a good connection with Camp II. We followed easily down the moraine, which is a stony trough between high fantastic ice pinnacles and a beautiful place and just as were nearing camp found a simple way through the pinnacles – so in an hour and a half the first and most difficult part of the way from II to III had been established.

4th to 5th An appalling night, very cold, considerable snow fall and a violent wind.

5th Result – signs of life in camp – the first audible ones in camps up to and including II are the blowing of a yak dung fire with Tibetan bellows – on the 5th these signs were very late.

The men too were an extraordinarily long time getting their food this morning. The N.C.O. seemed unable to get a move on and generally speaking an oriental inertia was in the air. It was with difficulty in fact that the men could be got out of their tents and then we had further difficulty about loads; one man, a regular old soldier, having possessed himself of a conveniently light load refused to take a heavier one which I wanted taken instead; I had to make a great show of threatening him with my fist in his face before he would comply and so with much argument about it and about, as to what should be left behind as to coolie rations and blankets and cooking pots and the degree of illness of 3 reporting sick we didn’t get fairly under way until 11 am. Now making a new track is always a long affair compared with following an old one – and on this occasion snow had fallen in the night. The glacier which had looked innocent enough the evening before was far from innocent now. The wind had blown the higher surfaces clear, the days I suppose had been too cold for melting and these surfaces were hard, smooth, rounded ice, almost as hard as glass and with never a trace of roughness, and between the projecting humps lay the new powdery snow. The result of these conditions was much expenditure of labour either in making steps in the snow or cutting them in ice and we reached a place known as the trough – a broad broken trough in the ice 50 ft deep about 1/3 of the way up knowing we should have all we could do to reach Camp III. Accordingly we roped up all the men in 3 parties; this of course was a mere device to get the men along as there isn’t a crevasse in the glacier until rounding the corner to III. We followed along in the trough for some way a lovely warm place, and then came out of it onto the open glacier where the wind was blowing up the snow maliciously. The wind luckily was at our backs until we rounded the corner of the North Peak – and then we caught it, blowing straight at us from the North Col. As the porters were now nearly exhausted and feeling the altitude badly our progress was a bitter experience. I was acting as lone horse finding the best way and consequently arrived first in camp. It was a queer sensation reviving memories of that scene, with the dud oxygen cylinders piled against the cairn which was built to commemorate the seven porters killed two years ago. The whole place had changed less than I could have believed possible, seeing that the glacier is everywhere beneath the stones. My boots were frozen hard on my feet and I knew we could to do nothing now to make a comfortable camp. I showed the porters where to pitch their tents at 6.0 pm; got hold of a rucksack containing 4 china cookers, dished out 3 and meta for their cooking to the porters and 1 to our own cook: then we pitched our own two Meade tents with doors facing about a yard apart for sociability. The porters seemed to me very much done up and considering how cold it was even at 6.0 am I was a good deal depressed by the situation. Personally I got warm easily enough; our wonderful Kami produced some sort of a hot meal and I lay comfortably in my sleeping bag. The one thing I could think of for the porters was the high altitude sleeping sacks (intended for IV and upwards) now at II and which I had not ordered to come on next day with the second party of porters (two parties A and B each of 20 had been formed for these purposes and B were a day behind us). The only plan was to make an early start next morning and get to II in time to forestall the departure of B party, I remember making this resolve in the middle of the night and getting up to pull my boots inside the tent from under the door; I put them inside the outer covering of my fleabag and near the middle of my body - but of course they remained frozen hard and I had a tussle to get them on in the morning. Luckily the sun strikes our tents early – 6.30 a.m. or little later at III and I was able to get off about 7.0. I left directions that half the men or as many less as possible should come ¼ of the way down and meet the men coming up so as to get the most important loads to III. I guessed that B party after a cold night would not start before 9.0 am and as I was anxious to find, if possible, a better way over the glacier I wasted some time in investigations and made an unsatisfactory new route, so that it was after 8.30 when I emerged from the trough; and a little further on I saw B party coming up. It was too late to turn them back. I found that they had some of them resolved that they would not be able to go to III and get back to II the same day and consequently increased their loads with blankets etc determining to sleep at III. This was the last thing I wanted. My chief idea at the moment was to get useful work out of B party without risking their morale or condition as I saw we were risking that of A. So after despatching a note to Noel at II I conducted B party slowly up the glacier. After making a convenient dump and sending down B party I got back to Camp III early afternoon, some what done and going very slowly at the last from want of food. In camp nothing doing. All porters said to be sick and none fit to carry a load. Irvine and Odell volunteered to go down to the dump and get up one or two things specially wanted – e.g. Primus stoves, which was done. The sun had left the camp sometime before they returned. A very little wall building was done this day notably round the N.C.O.’s tent otherwise nothing to improve matters. The temperature at p.m. (we hadn’t thermometers the previous night) was observed to be 2° F – 30 ° of frost an hour before sunset –; under these conditions it is only during the sunny windless hours that anything to speak of can be done; this day there were such hours but I gathered that sahibs as well as porters were suffering from altitude lassitude.

May 7 The night had been very cold -21 ½ ° i.e. 53 °of frost. Personally I had slept beautifully warmly and yet was not well in the morning. Odell and Irvine also seemed distinctly unfit. I decided to send Hazard down with some of A party to meet at the dump and bring up 10 of B (it had been arranged that this party were to come up again). Investigations again showed that no porters were fit to carry loads; several were too unwell to be kept up at III; not one had a spark of energy or seemed inclined to do a hand’s turn to help himself – the only live man in camp was our admirable Kami. I decided to send down the whole lot and to send up B next day to establish the camp and prove it habitable. While Hazard went off to meet B I collected the men at III. They had to be more or less pulled from their tents; an hour and a half must have been taken up in their getting a meal of tea and tsamfa which they must clearly have before going down; & much time too in digging out the sicker men who tried to hide away in their tents – one of them who was absolutely without a spark of life to help himself had swollen feet and we had to pull on his boots with our socks; he was almost incapable of walking; I supported him with my arm for some distance and then told off a porter to do that; eventually roped in three parties in charge of the N.C.O. I sent them off by themselves from the dump - where shortly afterwards I met Hazard. Four men of B had gone on to III but not to sleep. Three others whom we now proceeded to rope up and help with their loads alone consented to stay there.

A second day therefore passed with only 7 more loads got to III & nothing done to establish the camp in a more comfortable manner, unless it may be counted that this third night the six men would each have a high altitude sleeping bag: and meanwhile the morale of A partly had gone to blazes. It was clear to me that the morale of porters altogether must be restored if possible at once by bringing B partly up and giving them a day’s rest to make camp.

May 8. I made another early start and reached II at 9.0 am – and here met Norton and Somervill. By some mental aberration I had thought they would only reach II on this day – they had proceeded according to programme and come to II on the 7th. We discussed plans largely while I ate breakfast, in the mild, sheltered, sunny al fresco of II (by comparison). N. agreed with my ideas and we despatched all remaining B party to III with Somervell, to pick up their loads at the dump and carry them on. A had been filled up the previous night with hot food and were now lying in the sun looking more like men; the only question was whether in future to re establish the correct standard and make them carry all the way to III and back as was always done in 1922; I was strongly opposed to this idea, the best way of re establishing their morale I thought would be to give them a job well within their powers and if they improved as I hoped they might well carry loads the ¾ journey to the dump on 3 successive days - while B could ferry the last quarter once and twice on the two of the days when they would not be engaged in making camps: - this was agreed to more particularly by Geoffrey Bruce, who really runs the porters altogether, and who had now come up from I.

A day of great relief this with the responsibility shared or handed over; and much lying in the sun; and untroubled sleep at II.

May 9 I intended going ahead of the party to see how things were moving at III – for this day the camp was to be made wonderful. Seven men with special loads, fresh heroes from the Base were to go through to III the A men to return from the dump to II. As it turned out I escorted the first batch who were going through to III. The conditions when we emerged from the trough were anything but pleasant; under a grey sky the violent wind was blowing up the snow; at moments the black dots below me on the glacier all except the nearest were completely lost to view. The men were much inclined to put down their loads before reaching the dump and a good deal of driving had to be done. Eventually after waiting some time at the dump I joined Norton and Geoff and we escorted the last 3 loads for III the last bit of the way.

On such a day I didn’t expect III to be more congenial than it had been. However it was something to be greeted by the cheery noise of the Roarer Cooker; the R.C. is one of the great inventions of the expedition; we have two in point of fact one with a vertical and one with a horizontal flame – a sort of super Primus stove. Irvine and Odell had evidently been doing some useful work. It had been a triumph getting the R.C. to Camp III – it is an extravagant load weighing over 40lbs and it now proved to be even more extravagant of fuel than had been anticipated; moreover its burning was somewhat intermittent and as the cook even after instruction was still both frightened and incompetent when this formidable stove was not functioning quite sweetly and well a sahib had often to be called in to help. Nevertheless the R.C. succeeded in cooking food for the troops and however costly in paraffin oil that meal may have been it made the one great difference between Camp III as A party experienced it and Camp III now. Otherwise on this day set apart for the edification & beautification of this camp the single thing that had been done was the erection of one Mead tent to accommodate 2 more sahibs (only 2 more because Hazard came down this day). And no blame to anyone. B party was much as A party had been - in a state of oriental inertia; it is unfair perhaps to our porters to class then with Orientals in general, but they have this oriental quality that after a certain stage of physical discomfort or mental depression is reached they simply curl up. Our porters were just curled up inside their tents. And it must be admitted that the sahibs were most of the time in their tents no other place being tolerable. Personally I felt that the task of going round tents and seeing how the men were getting on and giving orders about the arrangements of the camp now naturally fell to Geoffrey Bruce, whose ‘pigeon’ it is to deal with porters. And so, presently, in my old place, with Somervell now as a companion instead of Hazard. I made myself comfortable; - i.e. I took off my boots and knickers, put on my footless stockings knitted for me by my wife for last expedition and covering the whole of my legs, a pair of grey flannel bags & 2 pairs of warm socks besides my cloth sided shoes & certain garments too for warming the upper parts, a comparatively simple matter. The final resort in these conditions of course is to put ones legs into a sleeping bag. Howard and I lay warmly enough and presently I proposed a game of picquette and we played cards for sometime until Norton & Geoff came to pay us a visit and discuss the situation. Someone a little later lied backer the flaps of the two tents facing each other so that after N & G had retired to their tent the other four of us began were inhabiting as it were one room and hopefully talked of the genius of Kami and the Roarer Cooker and supposed that a hot evening meal might sometime come our way. Meanwhile I produced The Spirit of Man and began reading one things and another – Howard reminded me that I was reproducing on the same spot a scene which occurred two years ago when he and I lay in a tent together. We all agreed that Kubla Khan was a good sort of poem. Irvine was rather poetry shy but seemed to be favourably impressed by the Epitaph to Grey’s Elegy. Odell was much inclined to be interested and liked the last lines of Prometheus Unbound. S, who knows quite a lot of English Literature had never read a poem of Emily Bronte’s and was happily introduced. And suddenly hot soup arrived.

The following night was one of the most disagreeable I remember. The wind came in tremendous gusts and in spite of precautions to keep it out the fresh snow drifted in; if one’s head was not under the bed clothes one’s face was cooled by the fine cold powder and [May 10 written in margin] in the morning I found about 2 ins of snow all along my side of the tent. It was impossible to guess how much snow had fallen during the night when first one looked out. The only certain thing was the vile appearance of thing’s at present. In a calm interval one could take stock of a camp now covered in snow - and then would come the violent wind and all would be covered in the spindrift. Presently Norton and Geoff came into our tent for a pow pow. G. speaking from the porters’ point of view was in favour of beating a retreat. We were all agreed that we must not risk destroying the morale of the porters and also that for two or three days no progress could be made towards the North Col. But it seemed to me that in a normal course of events the weather should now re-establish itself and might even be sufficiently calm to get something done this afternoon; and that for the porters the best thing of all would be to weather the storm up at III. In any case it would be early enough to decide for a retreat next day. These arguments commended themselves to Norton; and so it was agreed. Meanwhile one of the most serious features of the situation was the consumption of fuel. A box of meta and none could say how much paraffin (not much however) had been burnt at II; here at III no water had yet appeared and snow must be melted for everyone at every meal – a box of Meta had been consumed here too and Primus stoves had been used before Roarer had made its appearance yesterday. Goodness knew how much oil it had used. It was clear that the first economy must be in the number (6) of sahibs at III. We planned that Somervill, Norton and Odell should have the first whack at the North Col and Irvine and I finish the good work next day – Irvine and I therefore must go down first. On the way down Irvine suffered very much and I somewhat for the complaint known as glacier lassitude – mysterious complaint, but I’m pretty certain that in his case the sun and the dazzling light reflected from the new snow had something to do with the trouble.

A peaceful time at II with Beetham and Noel.

May 11. The weather hazy and unsettled looking.

I despatched 15 loads up to the dump and arranged for the evacuation of two sick men – of whom one had very badly frost bitten feet apparently a Lepcha unfit for this game and the other was Sangha, Kellas’s old servant who has been attached to Noel this expedition and last, a most valuable man who seemed extremely ill with bronchitis. The parties had been gone half an hour before we were aroused by a shout and learnt that a porter had broken his leg on the glacier. We quickly gathered ourselves into a competent help party and had barely started out when a man turned up bearing a note from Norton – to tell me as I half expected that he had decided to evacuate III for the present and retire all ranks to the B.C.

The wounded man turned out to be nearer at hand and not so badly wounded (a bone broken in the region of the knee) as I had feared.

This same evening Beetham, Noel, Irvine, and I were back at the B.C., the rest coming in next day.

Well, that’s the bare story of the reverse, so far as it goes. I’m convinced Norton has been perfectly right. We pushed things far enough. Everything depends on the porters and we must contrive to bring them to the starting point – i.e. 3 at the top of their form. I expect we were working all the time in ‘22 with a smaller margin than we knew - it certainly amazed me that the whole ‘bandobast’ so far as porters were concerned worked so smoothly. Anyway this time the conditions at III were much more severe and not only were temperatures lower, but wind was more continuous and more violent. I expect these porters will do as well in the end as last time’s. Personally I felt as though I were going through a real hard time in a way I never did in ’22. Meanwhile our retreat has meant a big waste of time. We have waited down here for the weather & at last it looks more settled and we are on the point of starting up again. But the day for the summit is put off from the 17th to the 28th; and the great question is will the monsoon give us time?

May 16. That is all very impersonal but I wanted to get the story down. You’ll be glad to hear that I came through the bad time unscathed indeed, excellently fit. I must tell you that with immense physical pride I look upon myself as the strongest of the lot the most likely to get to the top with or without gas. I may be wrong but I’m pretty sure Norton thinks the same. He and I were agreeing yesterday that none of the new members, with the possible exception of Irvine can touch the veterans and that the old gang are bearing everything on their shoulders and will continue to do so forcement. The performance of Odell and Hazard on the day they were supposed to reconnoitre the North Col was certainly disappointing. And Beetham has not recovered his form. None of these three has shown that he has any real guts; it is an effort to pull oneself together and do what is required high up, but it is the power to keep the show going when you don’t feel energetic that will enable us to win through if anything does. Irvine has much more of the winning spirit - he has been wonderfully hard working and brilliantly skilful about the oxygen; against him is his youth (though it is very much for him some ways) – hard things seem to hit him a bit harder – and his lack of mountaineering training and practice, which must tells to some extent when it comes to climbing rocks or even to saving energy on the easiest ground. However he’ll be an ideal campaigning companion and with as stout a heart as you could wish to find; - if each of us keeps up his strength as it is at present we should go well together.

Somervell seems to me a bit below his form of two years ago and Norton is not particularly strong I fancy, at the moment; still they’re sure to turn up a pretty tough pair. I hope to carry all through now with a great bound now. We have learnt from experience and will be well organised at the camps. Howard and I will be making the way to Chang La again – 4 days hence and eight days later – who can tell? Perhaps we shall go to the top on Ascension Day May 29.

I don’t forget meanwhile that there’s the old monsoon to be reckoned with, and a hundred possible slips between the B.C. and the summit. I feel strong for the battle but I know every ounce of strength will be wanted.

I must get off a little letter to each of the girls by this mail. I wish I had time to present to your mind a few of the amazing scenes connected with this story. As it is it is dull I fear – but perhaps not to you. My love to people in Cambridge, David and Claud and Jim especially and kind remembrances to Cranage and Mrs Cr. I wonder what you’ll be doing about putting people up during the Summer Meeting.

Great love to you always, dearest Ruth. Your loving George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Is thinking of her constantly and longs to get a telegram to hear she has safely had the baby referring to it as Edwin or Arabella.

Had been writing his Skipness Legend. Planned to go into Winchester and call on the 'Bear' [William Fearon] and possibly another master. Would probably bathe and might go and fetch the motobike.

Had seen some excellent boxing in a ring which had been put up in a field in the camp.

The Colonel’s horse had slipped his headstrap in the night and made off and had reappeared whilst they were on parade lead by a gunner. He had gone to welcome the horse who had bitten him on the arm.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on Armistice Day

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

This will only be a few lines. I have stayed the night with Geoffrey Keynes. We slept in a bell tent together & just before we went to sleep the noise of shouting confused & dispersed announced the fact that the armistice had been signed. Whether its a true fact I haven’t yet discovered - but any other would be so impossible that I’m prepared to believe it. I was thinking last night that I must be home for Xmas because I haven’t got Milton’s Hymn with me out here.

I can’t tell you how good it was walking & talking with Geoffrey yesterday afternoon. He is beyond Cambrai which is over 20 miles from Arras & the road was perfectly awful broken up pavé. I can’t think why the motorbike didn’t just break into fragments.

I shall write you a good letter this evening I hope. This must go now to catch the post.

Your loving George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Apart from washing and dinner he had spent the last 28 hours on a train. They were very long with passenger coaches and trucks mixed up and so were very slow. The coaches reserved for Officers weren’t crowded so the snails crawl of progress wasn’t unpleasant. There was no onward train so he would spend the night in an hotel. He hadn’t yet reported at his Headquarters so didn’t know his Unit. He had a good companion for dinner. He was on leave after 8 bad months in the trenches. To think what these men had endured, he honored the Infantry. His mind had been full thinking of the beauty of Spring, the blossom and the beautiful buildings and war which was inconceivable and monstrous. He had been weighing his own personal courage and how she entered into his thoughts.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 1st Echelon 40 Siege battery, 30th HAG, III Corps, B.E.F.

Realised he had missed her birthday and asks her to buy a copy of Shakespeare’s sonnets as a reminder of his love for her. Recommends editions and where she could buy them.

Describes their arrival at new position. Doesn’t know how long they would be there. Hard work of digging in chalk fields began again [sketch of the stone and earth above them making them safe]. Had been ragging the mostly town born men who had been happy to leave last place expecting the next to be better but it was not. The men were friendly. Had slept in the open under a Poplar tree but was positioned badly and a trickle of water had got in his waterproof bag. Then guns started firing around him. Glad to be up at 5am.
Supply of water was three miles away. Last supply of water had been poisonous even when boiled.

Discusses latest thrilling war news, including high hopes of Russian advance and hopes rumours were true that the German fleet had come out again and been beaten.

Food was difficult to get and asks her to send soups and a ham.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 11 1916' [7 is written over the 6 correcting the date from 1916 and making it 1917]

He intended keeping up with the different observation posts. He and some men had to dig out a hole full of water at one observation post but the mud was so sticky it stuck tot he shovel, bucket and then the men up to their calves and they had to abandon it. They kept late hours as the orders didn't come in before midnight but as compensation they didn't get up until 9am.

He liked the Colonel very much but his deafness made conversation difficult. He wasn't a very good Orderly Officer yet as he hadn't got into the habit of offering people drinks not even the Colonel and of letting the fire burn out.

Comments on Ursula and how Mildred could be difficult sometimes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Castlestead, Pately Bridge

Asks her to send a nightshirt to Magdalene College as he was planning on going there on Friday and also the coat and waistcoat from his wedding suit to Mr Barnet Beales, Sidney Street, Cambridge. He had received three letters from her which was a great joy. It was great news about Mildred’s engagement. She wouldn’t have consented if she hadn’t been sure herself that he was the man for her and he was a very good man [Ruth’s sister Mildred married Robert Morgan].

[He starts to write an account of the previous day but the letter ends abruptly mid sentence and there is no sign off].

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 10 1916'

Had spent the morning talking with the cook whilst he warmed his bottom by the kitchen fire which was made of three tins. He was beautifully shaven and well groomed, his nails clean and his hair was tidy. He had sorted sundry papers and done the accounts and was now sitting at the writing table in the ante-room. The corner seat was a great success. Was due to go to town with the caterer who had a number of commissions.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’

Brief Summary
Change of plans. He and Somervell to go to No. 3 Camp. Longstaff ill.

Detailed Summary
Was distressed to hear she was ill and hopes she’ll be able to take a planned trip to Wales.

The Tibetan porters had suddenly deserted and so the whole problem of fixing the camp was altered. General Bruce’s new plan was for Mallory and Somervell to go straight to No. 3 Camp (the one below the North Col) and cut steps up to the col, establish a camp and then get as high up the mountain as they can. He thought this would be a tremendous undertaking at this stage.

Was sending her pages from his diary which would explain some of their plans though not quite up to date. The reconnaissance party had found a good route to No. 3 Camp. This was located about where the 21,000 contour hits the North peak, on good moraines at the corner and only about an hour before the slopes leading up to the col. Strutt, Morshead, and Norton came back yesterday but Longstaff, who wasn’t well spent the night at No. 1 Camp and was due to come down that day on a stretcher. Feared he had strained his heart, and also had some throat trouble.

Is sorry he can’t write a better letter when hers are full of love. Wants to show how much he thinks of her and wants her with him to talk to. Is content that she is at home and he has her and the children to return to which makes a happy background to his life here.
Most of his news is in the diary. Feels Somervell to be his very good friend. Young Bruce was also coming up with them to No. 3 Camp. He had been very fit and cheerful. His tummy was slightly out of order today, has little doubt it will be better. Still hadn’t received any new shoes by the mail.

[Postscript up the side margin] - Asks her to tell his Mother that he had been prevented from dealing with the mail and consequently from writing to her. Asks her to thank Clare and Berry for their letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Rouen, France

He was on the way. He couldn’t say much as he didn’t know where to go to get the letter censored. Would know tomorrow where they were going to be posted. He had done some sight seeing that day. St Marelon was the most beautiful church and the most perfect architecturally he had ever seen.

The party was splitting up and tomorrow he would be on his own but he was happy as he hadn’t liked the waiting. It was sad he hadn’t received a letter from her before starting and now he would have to wait at least another two days.

Hoped she wasn’t feeling anxious. He would tell her all there was to feel anxious about and hopes it won’t be very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 10 1917'

He was just back from the observation post where he had had quite an interesting time. It was very misty last night and they had experienced endless difficulties laying the wires which he describes.

Had received a letter from his Mother about the Cheshire cheese she had sent ages ago which had just come back mostly eaten by rats.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Describes trek so far and outlines plans to get home from India.

Detailed Summary
It gave him a certain pleasure to write this address as it meant he was getting towards home. Their trek had not gone perfectly so far and he compares their progress to his and Bullock’s the previous year. The three of them had 20 animals this time to care for and stores etc. for Somervell and Crawford to stay a fortnight in the Lhonak Valley. They hoped to get over the Naku La, the next pass to the west of the one he and Bullock had crossed the previous year, and so into the valley the day after tomorrow but thought there might be difficulties.

He had decided to catch the Narcunda on 5th August and so would be 4 days later than if he went on the Trieste line to Venice as it would be less expensive. The extra days in India would just allow him to see Delhi without undue hurry. He hoped to meet Hugh Aeber Percy there. Hoped to see her again around 26 August.

He had received two good letters from her and one from Avie [his sister]. His was glad his father had received the honour of being made a Canon as he had been rather missed out before. Comments on Ruth's letter saying she was splendid to take on so much and was very glad she was managing to keep the gardens going too. Her news about flowers coming out interested him greatly. Understood from her remarks that John [their son] was tremendously admired. What thrilled him most was to hear of his great purple-faced rage!

He wouldn't be able to stay with the Bullocks at La Havre on his way home but thought they could do it later as it would make a delightful and cheap holiday to go to Rouen for a few days and stay 2 or 3 nights with them en route.

Tibet was much more attractive now than when they came out. He, Somervell, and Crawford made a happy little party and he had been enjoying the days since they left Teng. Would probably stay again with the Morsheads in Darjeeling. The last news they had of him was rather better and Longstaff thought all his toes and the fingers on his left hand would be saved.

He was sitting in the last sun which was shining brilliantly on the Dzong, a glorious sight from the lovely green meadows where their tents were pitched. The men with whom they were arranging their transport for the next day had just arrived.

[Letter continues later] - Had a terrible argument with the Tibetans as they didn't want to go their way. But he thought they would give in. Their dinner was delayed as their cook was also their interpreter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 10 1916'

Comments on where she is in the garden when she is writing to him and describes where he is writing from at the end of his night duty shift. Asks her to send a pound of butter as an experiment to see if it arrives fresh. Thanks her for the cake. He could get chocolate so not to bother sending that. Asks her to try and get 5 stone of new potatoes sent to them as getting vegetables, especially potatoes was difficult.

Yesterday and so far today had been peaceful and sunny.

Comments on the Holt and that he should try and write to some friends in the hope of getting good letters back. Asks what happened to the parts of his letters she copies out and thinks that others besides the family would like to see them. Would write to David. Mr Allen had written to say he might be coming our as a Chaplain.

Describes in detail where he lives (the offices and his dug out) and includes a sketch of the location of the map room. Tents were used but only in the cover of trees.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Explains leave arrangements and how he could travel to her via train and bicycle. Hadn’t been give duties yet but he would need to learn to ride a horse. Had been to the station to collect his bag and mackintosh and had then been to buy a tri basin, soap and a pillow and visit Wells the booksellers where he had bought a map, several volumes and learned the news as to who was in town. Was pleased to have met Fearon, his first headmaster at school, who had invited him to tea any day. Had visited the cathedral and includes a transcript of an inscription and then been for a walk.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 1 1916'

Thanks her for her letters, returning his manuscript, and the wristwatch strap. Ask her to buy and send him a pocket knife.

Glad she likes the manuscript and answers her comment that it was in danger of being too educational. Explains his ideas for the book.

Had been sitting outside the map room in the sunshine. Thanks her for the apples. He was off to censor letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had arrived in France from Newcastle and describes the journey in trucks and the extra provisions they had managed to sneak on board.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 1 1916'

Acknowledges receipt of wooly waistcoat.

Had been busy all day firing at the Fleurs Line which the Infantry then took. They had advanced about 200 yards. They were setting a faster pace and thought enemy was a bit demoralised.Had fine waether and things were looking brighter. Also had good news from the East.

Had received a good letter from David who was climbing in the Lake District.

She had remarked that he never mentioned the other officers. He wasn’t with them often but would describe them in another letter. Sends his love to Ursula.

Describes the ground between High Wood and Martinpuich.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Southgate Corner, Winchester

Had lunched in one of the houses at Winchester College [his former school] and watched fifteens afterwards. Sat besides Robinson, a young master. Had been for a walk with Rendall and for tea with the Irvings. Then was due to have dinner with Williams, a second master in College. Planned to do some more of his won writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Describes the damage done by a deluge of rain to the dugouts and efforts to make repairs and improvements. Now had a stove which gave him hope of eventual dryness.

Last night he visited Platnauer again and stayed until midnight talking about poetry which was a great pleasure. Platnauer was a passionate admirer of Rupert Brooke and he brought away two volumes to read carefully.

Up in good time that morning and firing began at 7am. Endless difficulties because the trail buried itself in the mud after about 10 rounds and it required 40 men to pull her out. Weather was misty and warm so hope for more work as he was tired of waiting. The last three weeks had spoilt everything on this front and sown how difficult it would be to get on during the winter. Was his turn to go to the O. P. [observation post] the next day which would mean spending half a day up to his knees or thighs in mud.

Asks her to send his climbing boots which would be useful in the conditions. No news of leave.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 1 1917'

He didn’t have time to write to her yesterday as he had to go to a meeting of intelligence officers and then a walk with the Colonel. Describes a visit to his old battery where he saw Wood and Glen who was in charge whilst Lithgow was at home on special leave. They wanted him to return to them once his current posting was finished. He would be very happy to return to them. He didn’t have great hopes about the staff job and wouldn’t set his heart on it.

Had received lots of letters from her. Was glad she liked his literary notebook idea and was glad to hear news about Clare. When he came home he would like to find her waiting for him at the Holt. They would walk out into the Loggia and stroll about their small domain looking at the plants and then go up to the nursery.

Describes what flowers and plants were out in the woods and asks what was out at home. Thinks they may start fighting again before the Spring. He had motored over to a village to put a marble plaque on a grave at the request of the Captain when he was with the French. Describes the decorations on the graves.

Letter to Ruth Mallory

Brief Summary
Most of the party was ill or injured with frostbite. Feeling in the camp was more discontented. He, Finch and Somervell were contemplating a third summit attempt. Thought Finch would annoy him. Opinion on what went wrong with 2nd attempt. Weather was worsening. If they did make a 3rd attempt he would be delayed in coming home.

Detailed Summary

Wishes he could be enjoying the first blush of early summer with her. Has been re-reading her letters and says her time in Wales sounds full of enjoyment and so unlike this. The North Col was a wonderful place for a camp as it was sheltered from the west wind behind great battlements of ice.

He finds a difficulty in writing to her because she will have heard of events that have not yet happened before she receives his story. She will know the results of their final attempt, which they will begin tomorrow or the next day. Despite mixed feelings about another venture it would have been unbearable for him to be left out. Until yesterday morning he felt there was no chance of going up. Longstaff felt they were all ill since they came down and strongly believed the Expedition had done enough and had better shut up shop. Longstaff reported him medically unfit due to his finger and his heart. However, Wakefield had made a careful examination yesterday and pronounced his heart perfectly sound and he trusted his judgement. He did risk getting a worse frostbite by going up again but felt the game was worth a finger and he would take care.

Norton had not been fit since they came down [from 1st summit attempt] and there was no question of his going up again. For Wakefield and Crawford the limit was the North Col and Geoffrey Bruce’s feet would require a month to recover. Only Finch, Somervell, and himself were left. Finch appeared done when he came down in spite of the liberal use of oxygen, but was fit enough. He was afraid Finch would get on his nerves a lot before they were done, but hoped they would manage the climb without serious friction [anticipating 3rd attempt in 1922].

The weather was getting steadily worse which would settle the affair. It seemed much windier than last year. He feared getting caught on the ridge in a bad gale. Finch and Bruce had made a strong effort on the last day but in some ways managed very badly. Assessing the 2nd summit attempt he felt it was an initial mistake to go to a fresh camp at 25,500 ft instead of moving to the one they had established and they had put it on the wrong side of the ridge exposed to the wind. By some mismanagement there was a shortage of supplies both at the North Col and 25,500 ft. Porters were sent up from the North Col at 4 pm and they did well to get back there at 11 pm. The idea of porters wondering about up there in the dark with none of us to look after them filled him with horror. The story of the Gurkha orderly was pretty bad too. The plan was to take him on from 25,500 ft carrying 6 cylinders of oxygen for 1,000 ft of 1,500 ft by which time it was supposed he would be exhausted. He was to then sent down by himself drinking oxygen from one cylinder. Finch seemed to have a different standard of caring for the porters than him. He was determined they would run no risks with their lives during the next venture.

The new attempt would impact plan for his return journey. Strutt, Longstaff, and Morshead would be going back to Darjeeling as soon as animals arrive, in 4 or 5 days. Norton and General Bruce would be going over to Kharta at the same time (he was to have gone with them). The main body would follow to Kharta after they had finished with the mountain. He would aim at catching the Treista boat from Bombay on 1 August but she wasn’t to count on that.

[Continues later] - He had escaped from the camp to write the letter. In the past 3 or 4 days it had seemed to be a less serene, rather a discontented place. Morshead suffered from his fingers continually and he [Mallory] feared he would lose the first joint of six of them. He bore it well but was not a cheerful figure. Norton was even more depressed. Strutt was more than usually full of curses. Crawford and Wakefield who were last down from the mountain were not very pleased with the prospect of going up again so soon. Longstaff was far from well with indigestion and sleeplessness and was at present in one of his moods of bustling activity, when he became tiresome, interfering, and self-important. The General, who had been tied to camp almost the whole time by a sore foot, showed a better temper than anyone. Bruce and Strutt both hated the wind and they had had no more than one windless hour.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kharta'.

Brief Summary
Describes flowers seen by him and Norton. Comments on a copy of the Everest book which he had received.

Detailed Summary
Had received two letters from her. Correspondence had been more difficult this year.

Had found two new white primulas. Describes the scene of his discovery in detail which was so beautiful he nearly fell down and wept. Detailed description of the flower. Hoped the seedlings they were bringing back would survive. Had also found another flower which was a much more starry flower. The flowers had been wonderful over the last few days. He and Norton had explored a side valley going down to the Arun. They had the loveliest of walks, trees, shrubs, and all were at their best in broken sunlight and showers - perhaps the best of all that blue-purple iris blooming freely in patches the size of our garden.

Had received a copy of the Everest book but was bored with having to find a place for it in his baggage. Thought it was well got up and looked the money but was disappointed with the reproductions. Was amused to find that the Morning Post was his most favourable reviewer. Thought the other reviews she had sent were remarkably dull, but the Times seemed pretty favourable.

They were to start back the day after to-morrow. He didn't expect to be able to catch a boat before 5th August and would probably save money by sailing right on to London. Younghusband had written to him and had said about the book, ’ ‘Yours was a splendid contribution and I am glad I resisted efforts to have it broken up and subdivided . Wonders whose wanted to subdivide the book and wondered if it was Howard-Bury out of jealousy.

Had received a letter from Edith Stopford and mentions the political situaion in Ireland. Wonders if it’s possible for civil war to be avoided. Edith said everyone expected it be and no one seemed much concerned.

He was very glad she has been to London. Asks her to congratulate Ursula on her concert.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday'

Full Transcript
This mere note to precede a very long letter I am in the course of writing in reply to two beautiful letters from you. We are depressed on this bit of the front. Nevertheless a fair number of prisoners drift by. We have been very busy. I am rather tired but very well. Great love to you dearest from your loving George.

Dispatch rider just off. A few moments more. I am sitting on the roadside other officers gazing at prisoners 100 yards off through glasses. ‘A damned seedy looking lot those!’ says Glen. The air is full of jars. Not much doing this evening. We are disgusted at not being allowed to fire more rds [rounds]. I hope the show has gone well elsewhere. The din this morning was terrific. I’m feeling tremendously excited – but I fear we shan’t go forward as soon as we hoped. The weather is v. fine which ought to help matters. It is extraordinary how little shelling the enemy has done here. All the damage to our men on this bit of front done by machine guns. Here goes my love again. Congratulate Mildred and Robert from me.