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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

The adjunct said he wouldn't be on church parade for the next two weekends but the course he was taking was due to go to a remote place called Lavington in Wiltshire. The Colonel had mentioned Friday 26th but he feared they would keep them there all weekend. After completing the course he would get 48 hours leave and then could put in for six days overseas leave before going out.

The canvas part of his bed had not come with his kit. Asks if it had come back to her and if so could she send it by parcel post.

Interesting lecture on gas shells. The Germans had great difficulty getting gas masks due to the shortage of rubber.

Hoping to get to Winton after tea to get the clutch adjusted on his motorbike.

[Continues later] - it was raining so couldn't face going to Winchester. Still doubtful if he would be home after the trip to Lavington but he didn't think it worth postponing the christening.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 17 1916'

He had heard nothing more about leave. The climbing boots had arrived and he had every hope that they would keep his feet warm. Cake and buns had also arrived. They would have the buns for tea when Austin Earl was due to come. He had arrived at lunch time but had only just had his breakfast.

They were doing little considering the dry weather. He had dug with the men for an hour and then spent the rest of the time in his dugout reading M. Chéradame's Pan-Germanisme - a very interesting part about the population of southern Serbia. He had wrapped his curtain round his knees as it made all the difference to his warmth. The supply of paraffin wasn’t unlimited so he couldn’t burn his stove day and night and he preferred to use it after dark. The mess room was not a warm place.

Charmier and Sheppard came in last evening but not to dinner. He liked Shepherd who came in talking about the Dardanelles and the coast of Asia Minor. Dunbar and Wood had also been to dinner to eat a brace of pheasants which came from the Captain’s shooting.

His turn on the observation post tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 17 1917'

He had been very busy with new ammunition. The Germans had retreated giving away a large chunk of territory on the Somme. Dunbar had returned from the observation post and Johnson had gone up. Wishes he was up there.

Three good letters from her and one from Mary. Glad she had been staying with Ruth. Was sorry to hear Ruth didn’t think Clare would be brainy but he was sure she would be a very nice person.

Would like to go up the line tonight but didn’t think he could do much good as it would take the Infantry a wile to make contact with the enemy as they had to cross the river.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 17 1916'

Comments on her reply to his views on religious education.

Responds to her question as to whether he will be older after the war by saying he used to be more gay but could be so again after the war and this healthy life of action was wonderfully youth giving.

Had little to do yesterday and were still idle. Describes what he thinks will happen next in the battle. They were in the thick of the fighting and half the places mentioned in the papers were in their line of fire or visible from the observations posts.

Thanks her for two parcels. Asks her to send soup tablets. It was wet weather. Bell was playing the flute. He had written to his mother so that would save her copying out his letter. Corrects her spelling of the word ‘copying’ [Ruth was dyslexic]. Asks her to read over her letters before sending them as some of her omissions makes it difficult to make out the meaning. Hopes she treats other people better than she treated him in that resect. He didn’t think it nice for her to let her thoughts go forth in such a careless fashion. Says he has been severe and says she writes very good letters and he didn’t want her to change the general manner.

Comments on Clutton-Brock’s reviews. Discusses how the canteen operates. Asks if she had received a photo of him that Sayle said he would send from Cambridge. He has one of her pinned to a sandbag.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

He had not a moment to write to her in breaks during the day. Had spent 3 ½ hours on gun drill. About 6 men stand around the breech of an old gun and load and fire it. When giving the order you had to shout to be heard over the noise of imaginary guns going off all round in the drill hall. The loads weighed 100lbs and he had been concerned for his back but it had survived so far. He listened to explanations without comment as it was part of his present mood not to do so. He was still of the opinion that it was a good Christian job. The lectures that day had been elementary.

She wasn’t to worry about the towels if they were hard to get at but he did want her to send the calling cards as he had to pay calls to a general, colonel and the mess.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 17 1917'

He had missed the dispatch rider and so had received no letter from her again and couldn’t give the one he had written to be taken.

He felt like a fish out of water [at his new liaison posting]. As there was no room where the Heavy Artillery were, he was billeted with some Divisional Artillery not far away. Everything was in a horrible muddle and he hoped to return to a more settled way of life in a few days.

The thaw had started in earnest. Wishes he could write a happy and interesting letter. Describes the Commandant who was the one person there who interested him.

The French said plenty of nice things about our army and that the men were magnificent soldiers but they were disappointed and always waiting for us. The French were war-weary, not discouraged but bored. It was a great disappointment that they couldn’t get on faster on the Somme. The French were always ahead of the English, obtaining their objectives and then waiting.

Was thinking of her a lot and wished for a letter from her.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Tinkye Dzong

Full transcript

Darling Ruth,

This is only a hurried line at the end of a full day - to tell you (1) that my tummy is in perfect order again, & I feel as fit as possible. It was a funny go altogether & quite inexplicable. Naturally there was a small appendicitis scare as the tenderness was on the right side, but Somervell was practically sure from the start that I was free from that.

(2) Beetham came on with us. It was Somervell’s decision on the very morning of leaving Kampa Dzong – that is to say S [Somervell] had to decide that B [Beetham] would get better; & no doubt he is right. But it is one thing to have no more dysentry & another to get really fit again after all that when living at this altitude. At present B [Beetham] looks years older in much the same way as Raeburn did in ’21, only at a younger stage & has quite lost all kick & there was no one more energetic earier. Still he may be a useful reserve climber in the end.

(3) I’ve had a brain wave – no other word will describe the process by which I arrived at another plan for climbing the mountains;-
(a) A. & B. with 15 porters (about) starting from IV (North Col) establish V building emplacements for 4 tents at about 25,500 & descend.
(b) C. & D. gassless party go to V with another 15 porters of whom 7 carry loads & descend, the other 8 group without loads practically speaking & sleep.
(c) C. & D. proceed to establish a camp VII at 27,300 (about) with these 8 porters carrying up 6 loads.
(d) E. & F. gas party on the same day as (c) start wthh 10 porters (about) from IV, go without loads to V & from that point E. & F. using oxygen they take on the stores & gas previously dumped at V about 1,000ft higher to VI at 26,500.
(e) Then the two parties start next morning & presumably meet on the summit.

You will readily perceive the chief merits of this plan; - the mutual support which the two parties can give each other; the establishment of camps without waste of reserve climbers (A. & B. will not have done so much that they can’t recover); the much better chance this way of establishing VI without collapse of porters. And then if this go fails we shall be in the best possible position to decide how the next attempt should be made; four climbers we hope will be available & the camps either way will be all ready.

This plan has such great advantages over all others that Norton has taken it up at once & this evening we had another pow wow & everyone has cordially approved. I’m much pleased about this as you may imagine - if only for this it seems worth while to have come; for Norton’s plan was fundamentally unsound I’m sure & might have had very bad results; & in this one there is much greater safety. It is impossible yet to say who the parties will be. N [Norton] & I have talked about it; he thinks Somervell & I should lead each one of these two parties; he puts himself in my hands as to whether he should be one of them – isn’t that generous? We shall have to judge as best we can of people’s fitness when we reach the Base Camp. Odell has not been showing up well; but either he or Irvine must be of the gas party.

We have stayed one day here for transport, as against 3 last year when Longstaff was ill; & we hope only to stay one day at Shekar, & so we should be two or three days up at the Base Camp.

No mail yet – one should have arrived today.
Much love to you.

Ever your loving, George

I didn’t tell you that I bought a pony at Kampa Dzong, a very good animal, though too thin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 17 1917'

Had been doing observation work. Saw Germans against the skyline but his battery weren't allowed to fire. Two hours later a few rounds were fired but did no good so that was disappointing. He had been exploring a wood for a new observation post as he didn't like the place Hutchinson and Johnstone had found because it was a favourite dugout of the Germans. Many trees had been destroyed but he liked being in a wood and the feeling of the earth under the trees. Green things were beginning to carpet the ground and he saw wood anenomies and oxslips. He built a fire and had coffee and sardines for breakfast. He found three good O.P.s in the woods and had wires laid.

Describes firing on a target before an infantry attack, the bombardment from the Germans, and how the communications were managed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Wonders what Fletcher had done about applying for his return. He might be home within a few weeks or if the application failed then it might take 3 months.

They had no orders to move yet and so they might stay there until peace preliminaries had been signed. There was uncertainty as to where they would spend the winter. The weather was getting colder especially at night.

That morning a plane had flown low overhead and dropped somthing red. It was a parcel for him from Trafford wrapped in red bunting. Trafford was going to come the day after tomorrow to take him off in his car to stay with him.

Wasn’t sure where the oak tree was that she mentioned but they would be glad of the wood if they could cut it up and cart it off. How was she doing for coal? Doesn’t see why the coal ration shouldn’t now be increased. Was sorry to hear that Violet may leave them as they wouldn’t get anyone as good. Agreed that the immediate future would be a good time to get servants. Thought it unwise to get Maggie Dunsby unless she was stronger than she used to be.

17 November - she might ask Violet to stay and nurse Beridge until she is 2 years old. Hoped to be back in time to have some time before term started.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Olympic on ‘White Star Line’ letterhead

[16 Jan] Had been passing the time by playing deck tennis and taking a plunge bath. There had been some bad storms with furious wind and lighting and torrents of rain causing rough seas. He didn’t like the motion of the sea which made him feel fuzzy and stupid. His writing had been impacted and he still had the ‘Third Attempts’ and a chapter of 'Conclusions' to write. He had been fairly happy with his table companions which included American tourists, and he was amused by their accents.

He had not told them what his business was in America although he had told one couple but thought they would keep his secret as they understood he didn’t want to be bothered about Everest.

[Letter continues later, writing in his bed] – he was glad the voyage would be over the following day. Reminds her about engine oil for the car. Promises to send pictures of New York for her to show the children. His first lecture would be in Washington, D.C. He would have to weed out some jokes that wouldn’t go down well.

[Letter continues on 17 Jan] – It was a very cold morning with a wind like Tibet. They had anchored outside the mouth of the Hudson River, and he was looking forward to seeing the Statue of Liberty.

[Later] – He was staying at the Waldorf Hotel on Fifth Avenue.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 16 1916'

The battle continued in their favour so far. Was the most exciting day since the bitter disappointment of July 1st. Had been reading Old Mortality during the night watch (expecting a counter attack). Gives his opinion of Walter Scott and his writing.

Asks how she is getting on with Boswell. Recommends reading it straight through for first time and then picking out bits. Recommends different editions.

Explains why the observation post work might be less dangerous as they advance.

Very cold weather. Two cakes had arrived. Asks her to send some fresh butter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Is keen to know what she and everyone at home thinks about the German Note and wants to see the English newspapers and describes how it is being reported in the Continental press. He thinks the journalists misunderstand the German and particularly the Prussian psychology which he sets out.

He wants to know what her father thinks of it all and asks her to tell him what he [George] thinks.

Was finding G. Young's Balkans amazingly good and was studying Othello.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Had been released from hospital and returned to camp although he still couldn't walk very far. He would attend the lectures in camp but not the physical drills. He expected to be detailed for church parade at the weekend so wouldn't be able to visit her. Reminds her to let him know about the condition of his field glasses and was interested to know what else had come back in his pack.

Had only just finished his first article which was longer than expected and more suited for The Educational Supplement than the daily press. Was writing it more for the intelligent parent than the professional educationalist.

Writes about Raymond who had been killed in action.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 16 1916' [looks like he originally wrote 15 but corrected the 5 to a 6]

Had received a chocolate cake and case of apples (cookers as they weren’t sweet).

Had a long and enjoyable day reconnoitring a lot of ground to find a suitable spot for observing German trenches and then laid a wire to the spot chosen. Were working with the 109 Battery. Both batteries wanted a registration. Went to see the Officers of the 109 on his way back. They were quite a pleasant lot and it was nice to get to know fresh faces. They were commanded by Captain Sayers, who was with 141 and was there with the half battery that relieved their [Mallory’s] men. Had to go back and recover a protector which had dropped through a slit in his mackintosh instead of into the pocket. Weather had cleared but it was very cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 16 1916'

The men were working on a vast chamber 18’ x 24’ which he thought should be called the saloon. He had suggested a minstrels’ gallery at one end for the various performances on melodion, mouth organ, and penny whistle. It was to be warm. It would be a wonderful pleasure to the men to have a place where they can congregate and would promote song and laughter.

The ground had almost dried up and that was worth the bitter east wind.

Speculates about leave but doesn’t want to get his hopes up.

The adjutant had been in to dinner during which the enemy was shelling all around and the tear gas was penetrating everywhere. Yesterday Chamier came in to tea with his brigade doctor who was called Falconer, a very agreeable Scot. Was hoping Chamier would come in again with a boy called Shepperd who had been in his form. The sociabilities made all the difference to the monotonous life there and were indulged in more as the Captain was away.

The success on the Ancre was growing with more prisoners being caught daily.

Acknowledges the arrival of a cake different to the usual Plum cake but quite good.

He was reading M. Chéradame’s Pan-Germanisme which was a very interesting account of Germany’s ambitions which made him want to keep on fighting.

Asks if she knows what happened to Daudet’s L’Avant Guerre as he took it out of the London Library and read what he wanted before he went down to New Romney. Thinks she has it and the London Library wanted it back.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the Officers' Mess, Red Slum, France

Still hadn’t received a letter from her. Wants to know what she is doing and thinking. What had she decided about letting Violet go to munitions? Thinks she wouldn’t decide anything about that before her next period.

If the Germans were going to be so short of food next year it would be pointless for him to fight through another winter. The French had been expecting and hoping the war would end that summer or autumn.

Things had been fairly lively the last two days. Yesterday was wet so they had done no shooting but there was plenty going on and they took care to keep out of the way of the whizbangs. That morning he was awoken early by a tremendous dim – neighbouring anti-aircraft batteries pounding away. It was a bright morning and there was plenty of aircraft about so they took care to slink around out of sight in the shadows. They were shooting both morning and afternoon that day. The system was first one and then the other is on duty for a week. Next week he would take command of the guns.

The men had planted a variety of vegetables in the garden and there was plenty of space for flowers and they would do quite well for fruit.

He had to write a letter to Arthur Benson as he had seen that his sister had recently died and another letter to Mother.

Asks her to send the proofs of the photos.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Been inoculated against typhoid so couldn't do exercise. Discusses book by Baudouin. Refers to Ghandi's arrest and strikes.

Detailed Summary
Nearing end of voyage and he had rather enjoyed myself. He had been rising early and sitting alone in the early sun. He was inoculated against typhoid two days ago and so was debarred from such activities as Max Mullers, ‘My System’, skipping and running because they were too painful. He was wearing the old khaki silk shirt she gave him and mended the other day, my shorts, and a pair of gym shoes.

Wants more seasoned silence and collected meditation. Gives a detailed criticism of Baudouin’s book, discussing the law of reversed effort and its potential application to children. He was going to send her the book and suggests she carefully read the part about the practices of auto-suggestion and suggests they practice this with Clare [daughter] to help with her little troubles of competitiveness with other children. Was also sending her back The Revision of the Peace Treaty which was well worth reading - one could skip some of the figures.

He expected to be in Bombay the next morning and refers to Ghandi’s arrest. They had heard in Aden of a general strike on the railways. He missed seeing the papers. Comments on the Curzon affair.

It had been a fortnight since he had left and he supposed the flowers were blooming in their garden at home. Asks her to report on specific plants to him and mentions Clutton-Brock and Beagly. His next letter would be from Darjeeling and should be more interesting, though he didn't expect there would be much time for writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received another batch of her letters. Describes in more detail the layout of their previous position in relation to the Germans, trenches and guns. Unpleasantness of the prevalence of dead bodies and how you would find a corps when digging anywhere near the surface. His own dugout had been clean.

Describes their new position which was different. Their guns were due to arrive that night. Expected to be very busy. Hoped big things weren’t planned for that part of he line just yet. Warned her that she would have to wait for news because of the difficulty of communications in a battle. Tries to reassure her.

Glad to hear of Clare waving and he had a longing to see her. Glad she was seeing the Brocks and asks if he had seen his pamphlet as he was the one man he would want to approve of it. Asks if Benson and Fletcher had received a copy.

[Postscript] – had never felt anxious about the Italians. Discusses prospect of the war ending in August and the effect of the defeat of the Austrians on Germany. They were a full battery now. Bell had gone back to their previous position for one day and had now rejoined them. He saw the garden there which had been ravaged. Their Major had been promoted and they were hoping Lithgow would be promoted in his place.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Weymouth

He had been sick and had a sore back which he had been rubbing and was feeling better. Things were settling down with a quiet, agreeable set of men. He had been for a walk with Dodds, late of Oxford and the Admiralty. Hooper, whom he shared a room with, was not interesting but unobjectionable and disposed to be friendly. They were to start at 8.30am next morning which was too early a start considering the number of men staying in the accommodation needing breakfast.

Wonders what she thought about his last letter [describes potential places for her to live in the area]. Would not be able to do anything more about it until next weekend.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Responds to news in her letters. They had been in the same camp for two weeks. He had spent some of the time at the advanced camp climbing with Bullock. Snow had put an end to their climbs and Howard-Bury had ordered them to leave camp and return to the lower one. Bullock carried a pink umbrella on the marches. Didn't think much of Howard-Bury's official accounts of their climbs. Describes other members of the party and their physical fitmess. Was still hoping to attempt to summit but it would depend on the weather.

Detailed Summary
They had received two mail deliveries and everyone in camp spent a long time silently reading their letters. He responds to news in her letter mentioning Bob Morgan, photos of the children, the Keynes, O’Malley, the Fletchers, the Brocks, the Trews [?], and thanks her for being very diligent about circulating his news. He feared his letters had been very dull but had been writing partly for himself as a record which he otherwise wouldn't have made.

He had received a letter from Avie and David who had both enjoyed their visits to Ruth and he had enjoyed hearing about her from them. He had also heard from his mother and father who were very happy after visiting her. His father seemed to be greatly impressed by John [their son]. Mentions Miss Walround, Edith Stopford, the Reads, and that it was nice to hear that Geoffrey Young was anxious to hear his news. Was delighted by photos of the children. Asks in detail about the state of the garden, her upcoming plans, and whether she is going to Westbrook [Ruth's father’s house].

They were still in the same place as over a fortnight ago. Describes working on the upper camp (1st Advanced at 20,000 ft) with supplies, attempting to stay up there, trekking with Bullock and of pitching a tent in the usual snowstorm. Describes the fine granular snow of high altitudes. After a good night’s sleep he had woken to see the roof of his tent hanging inwards and a white world outside and conditions for climbing were entirely hopeless.

He had a Kodak camera to take snapshots of the porters and their snow-bound camp and a quarter-plate to take photos of the mountains. Spent the morning sitting on a rock taking six photographs before a porter arrived bearing a chit from Howard-Bury who had nothing more to say than to urge the obvious. After a debate with Bullock they had packed up the tents, covered the stores and prepared to go down to Howard-Bury’s camp. Bullock had a pink umbrella which he invariably carried on the march.

He had told her little of the movements of the others as he trusted she would have been informed by Howard-Bury’s articles. These were not very informative and he wasn't impressed by them.

They were all together for the first time since Kampa Dzong. Raeburn on his arrival was almost a broken and heart-breaking figure, and when Howard-Bury and Wollaston arrived on 6 September they sketched over some difficulties about stores and had settled down quite amicably. Wollaston was a rather solitary bird who was always jolly and friendly to talk with, but he had the impression that he was more tired of the expedition than the rest of them.

He was happy but thought the month was too late already for their great venture and they would have to face great cold. Feared his hopes and plans for seeing something of India on the way back wouldn't be possible.

The interest remained for him and he felt that when they returned to Darjeeling he wouldn’t leave without regret. He’d like to undertake a few other ascents, less ambitious but perhaps more delightful. He was looking forward to seeing her again.

Wheeler had been taking photographs and Morshead had been keeping him company. There was a shortage of tents due to Raeburn’s unexpected arrival, so Morshead had slept in the tent with Bullock and himself [Mallory]. It was a disorderly but happy arrangement. Wheeler came in to eat with them while the rest had their meals round a table in a pukka mess tent. There was plenty of talk and good cheer but he still thought Wheeler was not a fit man. He Morshead and Bullock made a good trio. Heron had arrived yesterday as cheerful and good natured as ever and he promised him a bit of rock from the summit of Everest.

17 September [letter continues] - the weather had changed and they had woken to find the sky clear and remaining clear. The day before he had enjoyed a good walk with Morshead and Bullock and were rewarded with a beautiful view of Everest. That day he, Morshead and Howard-Bury had ascended a snow peak on the boundary ridge and seen a glorious view. He could see Kangchenjunga [third highest mountain in the world] and all the higher mountains to the East. Makalu straight opposite across the valley was gigantic and Everest at the head of the valley was very fine too. The snow was not melting as it should; above 20,000 ft or so it was powdery under a thin crust and it was impossible to get along without snowshoes, and fears they’ll have to pack up at once if the snow didn't melt properly on the glacier. Morshead was going badly and he [Mallory] was feeling the height a good deal. Altogether his hopes were about zero.

He had been thinking about the children and asked her to kiss them and show them the lozenges below [see drawings at the bottom of the letter] which were meant for special birthday kisses. Tomorrow they were going up again so he was busy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Magdalen Hospital, Winchester.

Gives his opinion about what colour and type of fur she should buy and the colour she should chose for her new winter dress. Was happy about how well his foot was healing. Had been enjoying the past few days reading by a warm stove looking out at a pretty view. Inspired by Loom of Youth he had started writing a series of articles about education. He intended to send the first to the Daily Telegraph when it was finished. He rejoiced in the fine weather even though he couldn't walk on the Downs as it meant everything for the men in Flanders and our chances.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Celebrations of peace had continued and took the form of a run out and a large meal. He had been to Lille with the Major, Pemberton, and three men from a battery in Arras. Lille was the third largest town in France, although France didn’t have many. They had lunch in a large hotel used an officers’ club which was entirely an English institution. They had then walked around the town and met others so the party grew to 10. He was depressed in the 1 1/2 hours in the ante room as it was impossible for him to join in the conversation and it was a crowd of rowdy officers of unprepossessing appearance. He skilfully manoeuvred himself to be placed at dinner between two men who seemed capable of ideas beyond incidents in military careers and performances of drunken heroes. Had a long and interesting talk about America. That and half a bottle of bubbly helped him survive the evening. He always started these evenings thinking he would enjoy himself with agreeable companions until he realised that, whatever they were individually, collectively they were all barbarians with whom he had nothing in common.

Trafford had turned up the day before yesterday and had lunch with them. His visit to Trafford was deferred until he had moved quarters. He was trying to arrange for Trafford to take him to Beauvais as he wanted to see the cathedral.

Was sorry she hadn’t found sympathy in the family for her Montessori adventures. That was so like families but she had any amount from him so she shouldn’t be discouraged.

He hoped Trafford would be sending over two planes to photograph the guns so as to furnish them with souvenirs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Camp III’.

Brief Summary
Description of his and Somervell's recconnaisance to find a route from the North Col to Everest.

Detailed Summary
It was 7.30 am on a bright and almost windless morning and he was sitting on a box outside of the tent awaiting breakfast - tea had just come. Still freezing in the shade but the sun was trying to be warm. Explains why he was up so early and that they had eaten their evening meal early for the sake of their cook, and had been lying in the tent ever since. He and Somervell had slept well.

He had The Spirit of Man, a volume of Shakespeare and a pack of cards so there was no real difficulty about passing the time agreeably. He had found Will’s pamphlet from last mail in his pocket. Gives his thoughts on it.

On 10th they left Base Camp and slept at Camp I and on the two succeeding days came on to Camp III quite easily. Most of the porters were to go straight back to No. 1 Camp, rest for a day, and then bring up more loads again. They were expected that day. Two porters and a cook had remained with them. First objective was to establish a route to the North Col. Did this on 13th which was an interesting day. Problem was to get up without cutting lots of steps in hard ice. All the lower part of last year’s route was ice. Hard work to make a staircase and that route would have been unsatisfactory for porters as most were untrained. Instead they chose a route to the left, straight up to the point where they had to cross a very steep snow slope. Was very hard work with a lot of chipping and kicking of steps. One porter came with them (the other was sick). Took ice pegs and rope and the porter carried a Mummery tent, which was the first tent to reach the North Col. Almost midday when they reached the snow shelves below the edge. Wind was blowing up the snow and the great broken cubes of ice above them were wonderfully impressive. He and Somervell proceeded along the shelf intending to reach the lowest point of the col and look over the other side, just as he, Bullock, and Wheeler had last September.

They were roped together and afraid of the wind. Their way was blocked by a crevasse just too wide to jump. The main edge joining Everest to the North Peak was on the other side of this gap not more than 10 ft wide. There seemed to be a way to the left but a few moments later they were up against an obstacle not to be climbed without a ladder and there was no alternative. Faced the prospect of a longer job than anticipated they. They ate four sweet biscuits and some mint cake. Saw a gap where a steep ice slope came down from the North Peak. Continued along the shelf in that direction, turned the flank of an ice gendarme and were able to work up steep snow to the ridge and look out over the westward view. Everest was still to be traversed. The true North Col up on which the N. Arete of Everest springs up was at the south end of that ridge. The slopes on the west side were fearfully precipitous and they had to expect broken ground. They had to leap two crevasses in the first 50 yards. Then found it easy going and reached a minor snow summit. The view to the west was opening out and they sat down to look at it and for a time they completely forgot their quest. Started again and saw a clear way ahead, so they can get to Everest by way of the North Col. The distance of Chang La [North Col] from this camp was not as great as it appeared on the map or on a photo taken from Lhakpa La [high mountain pass] last year. The only trouble was the labour of getting up to the pass but this would be easier now the steps were prepared. They were back in camp about 5.30 pm, each with a bad height headache and too tired to eat a meal.

The porters arrived that day with Crawford, hopefully with enough rations to allow a party of them (8 to 12) to stay there. If so they planned to take a first lot of loads up to Chang La [North Col] tomorrow 16th. Rest on 17th, to Chang La [North Col] with 8 porters, and sleep there 19th, to the highest point we can get loads, say 25,000, with 3 or 4 loads on the 19th, porters returning here, others sleeping again at Chang La [North Col], and then on 20th or 21st up to their highest camp and on next day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday July 15'

Comments on good news they had heard about the battle and his three days at the observation post where he didn’t see the cavalry go over because it was misty. Describes the sight of trenches on fire due to the use of a new French invention – flame throwers.

Wanted to hear her thought on his views on religious education. Planned to write a book about it.

Discusses his thoughts about how the war might end and the damage done to the French countryside.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Had been looking for rooms for her but hadn’t been successful yet. The country east of Dorchester to Weymouth had been eliminated. Preston and Osmington were no good. Dorchester was unattractive but small so she could get out to the countryside easily. There was Brockhampton which was in a lovely situation sloping down to the river. There was a cottage kept by a spinster of about 40 and she would need to bring bedding and order food from Dorchester. Asks what she thinks about it all and outlines other possibilities.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 15 1916'

He had been rather depressed as he had visited their trenches after a futile attack. Describes his reaction to seeing corpses and the fact that seeing the wounded always distressed him.

Communications had failed as all the wires were broken when he arrived. He had a line laid and hoped to do useful registration but due to a disgusting piece of mismanagement by higher authorities he couldn’t get anything done.

Had been busy the day before in the battery and doing the accounts for the canteen and the mess which he hated doing.

Thanks her for the parcel and especially the lavender but says the rock buns arrived in a bad state. He asks her to rethink her packaging possibly using tins. Bell has stuff put in tins and then wrapped in cloth. Soup tablets and prunes arrived in good condition. Asks for a new strap for his wristwatch.