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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 6 1917'

He had received two good letters from her. He thought it very, very likely that the war would end that year but they had been disappointed before. It was worse for her as she was just awaiting for it to end whereas he was doing things. She was also doing less than usual at present [Ruth was expecting their second child]. Thought she ought to keep on her work for the Mothers Welcome if it didn’t overburden her. He hadn’t thought of Venice lately although they came back to that sort of happiness when they met.

He hadn’t had a very exciting day. He had been looking at maps in the morning and then later observing from a tree. He didn’t know the lay of the land and the man sent to help him wasn’t much use but he had enjoyed himself. He walked down to another battery for tea and was pleased to see new primrose leaves.

March 7 – a dull day but he was planning on going out to an observation post to look around. A great advantage of battery life was the opportunity to get out into natural daylight to visit places.

He hadn’t written to anyone but her for ages and he must try. He hadn’t heard any news from Charterhouse and asks after Mr Fletcher. He owed Hoenni a letter and would send a letter to Mary for Ruth to forward. He had received a parcel of sausages and would be glad of parcels now as when it was muddy the lorries didn’t get through and they lived on bully beef and biscuits.

He didn’t go up to the observation post in the end as it was too misty but would go up tomorrow and stay for two days which he would enjoy but it would probably rain.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth, My ‘note’ of this morning turned out almost a letter nevertheless it seems that I owe you a great deal of information and this is a chance of supplying it. I am taking Quinn’s place at the guns for a very slow job, as, owing to certain rearrangements he is superintending some more digging work. It is now 3.15pm and we have to fire off 60 rounds or so by 9pm so you may imagine how slow I feel this job to be. I am sitting beside the one gun which is to fire.

How much have I told you already about the recent fighting? I have an idea that much remains to be said but I hardly know what. The conditions just here are very different from those when the scrap began. That day was one of suspense and excitement; a continuous flow of tales collected from wounded men walking from the road kept us informed of what was going on and one made out a story, partly true. But now the intense fighting is south of us and though we may still support the infantry as we did yesterday it is not apparently those on our immediate front and they don’t evacuate their wounded along this road – so we feel a trifle ‘out of it’. Possibly that state of affairs won’t last forever. And for us the salient fact is that we are no longer working out a prearranged plan matured perhaps months ago // but rather on plans formed in a day to fit the occasion consequently we have little warning and often have to open fire at a moment’s notice.

This is what you would expect but none the less a condition of action that makes severe demands on everyone; so many things have to be considered that for perfect accuracy there must always be a short delay before the figures worked out in the office from the map can be telephoned through to the guns; and then the ‘Nos. 1’ or ‘Gun Captains’ as they are called in coast defence have to be made to understand the figures and its wonderful how difficult that process seems to be in some cases and how often they make mistakes. And then before a gun can be fired it has often to be turned about in a confined space and on muddy ground – so that altogether you may imagine that when we are ordered to open fire at once on XYZ it requires a cool head to avoid agitation and that’s just what Lithgow hasn’t got – he has a clear head and can work quickly and accurately, but when he comes along in a tremendous fluster to inquire why the guns aren’t ready it requires some presence of mind to keep cool oneself. It must be added that Lithgow has been better in this respect during these last two days – and we have been quicker on the guns too. My impression is that our Nos. 1 are not a very adaptable lot and don’t easily send themselves to new conditions; also some of them haven’t had sufficient training and two are capable of any folly. We never let them fire the 1st round of a series without making certain that they have the right angles on the sights, so no serious mistakes can be made that way.

These remarks from the mark // are written on Saturday morning. I’m glad to say that during the incessant firing of yesterday all went well. I only had two guns to look after during the most exacting periods instead of four as often happens when I am on duty; it is a much better arrangement to have an Officer for each section when we have to fire all guns rapidly at an exacting target, and I find no difficulty in taking charge of them properly: but four in a space of 120 yards along that slippery bank and in the din of traffic and field gun fire are a handful.

Well my dearest one I had a pretty hard time before I turned in last night. My day off duty turned out more laborious than usual in the end from the time I stopped writing this letter, because the work on the guns suddenly ‘bucked up’. I hadn’t a moment’s rest till 4am when I lay down for an hour and a half. And then began a day beside which the 1st day of the offensive appears as a mere whiff of smoke – I refer only to our own experiences but so far as artillery is concerned the whole attack must have been far more vigorous. It certainly seemed to be so judging from what we heard here – that was partly because we heard so very much more than we liked of certain field guns which fired over our heads but there was far more big gun fire too in this sector. The infantry were to attack at 8.0; the bombardment began soon after 7.0 and this battery had to open fire at 7.20. Before that the guns had to be calibrated – i.e. to fire on a known point with the particular lot of cordite which each separate gun was to use – so as to get any correction for elevation or line which might be required and as there was a difficulty about communication from the observer’s position involving the use of signals – flag waving (known as the flapper) with morse code – we had to start that operation at 6am.

It's no use attempting a detailed description of yesterday. We were firing all day but the strenuous parts of the day were up till 11.0am and from about 3.30pm to 9.0pm I was on the guns all the time except when I was relieved for meals. The operations appear to have been successful and again we see groups of German prisoners passing periodically as a gunner remarked to me ‘a mixed lot like our own; some fine soldiers and some that look as if they could hardly hold a rifle – and they all look as though they were straight from prison!

I think I might have been very tired yesterday. I had such variable moods. Mostly I was very happy and in the slack time after lunch sitting on a pile of empty cartridge boxes rained on at intervals I had a notable idea for a book – really quite the most pleasing idea I have ever had – a form which would give me scope to say all that I wish to say about life, ethics and education quite pleasantly and humorously. I will tell you more about it if it occupies my thoughts any more. On the other hand I was very nervy.
I read your letter in bed last night and that was a great joy four of them and half of one of my own! I’m very glad you get your friends and mine down to Westbrook – it is very agreeable for them and good for your family too. Mildred seems to be delighted by Mary Ann and Ursula – our discovery has been embosomed. I should love to have to have seen your father write ‘The Professor’ - an appropriate nickname. It’s a great matter of luck and first impressions whether such meetings ‘come off’ but I’m not in the least surprised and I think its creditable to you father – there’s a good deal for an elderly man to put up with in Owen.

I am interested in your account of the meeting you attended. Please tell me exactly what you said in your brave speech. I’m delighted to hear that you spoke. But I’m altogether ‘assommé’ as the French say – knocked down by your calm assumption that I am not a Christian – this after how many months of married life? I‘m blowed if I’ve the energy to write you another philippic proving how good and Xian I am. I always thought your own standard a high one and couldn’t expect to live up to that but if it’s not high enough to let a poor humble gunner like me into the fold but must be damnably low and at all events I can say I’ve more respect than that for Christian teaching so there!

And I won’t write any more – not in this spasm perhaps later in the day. But will this letter ever reach you?
I suppose we shall meet again one of these days perhaps for a period things will be more quiet and then!! But is does seem distant.

Ever so much love – your loving George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 7 1917'

Describes his observation work and how it had changed.

He had now settled into a cellar with some of the men of the battery, his servant and a cook. The Major had gone up to the guns.
He had made a make shift fire and cooking pot and they had cooked the sausages she had sent. His servant had brought up her parcel which was a godsend - a cake, rug and the best torch he had seen and exactly what he wanted. He was up on the guns in the snow between 11.30pm and 2am.

His ankle had gone again and he could only limp around. He hated being half crocked.

He had lost a secret code book and was frantically looking for it. Usually he would say it was lost in the move as he seldom lost things but a higher authority wanted it and he would probably be shot at dawn.

Was glad Ralph's measles were only German ones. Was sorry she had such a hunt for his tent and hoped he would use it now.

Comments on the actions of America and gives his opinion about the President.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, ’One march from Phari'

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I stupidly didn’t write from Phari – not realising that I should probably have no chance of sending a letter back on the way to Kampa. But it happens there may be a chance tomorrow so I will write a few lines in bed tonight. It isn’t easy to write because the site of my tent dips slightly towards the head of my bed & no amount of propping seems quite to overcome the difficulty. If I had my bed the other way round my head would be at the mouth of the tent & this would create a difficulty about light; besides it is snowing slightly & may snow more & though I don’t mind having my feet snowed upon for the sake of fresh air I am unwilling to have my head snowed upon during the night. As it is my tent is a wonderfully comfortable spot. The little table made for me by our friend in Maid’s Causeway is at my bedside & on it my reading lamp; I expect I shan’t always be able to have oil for this, but so long as I can I shall burn it. Did I tell you about the Whymper tents? We each have one to himself they have two poles /\ at each end a much more convenient plan than the other with single poles, a ground sheet is sewn into the sides so that draught & dust are practically excluded if one pitches in the right direction; and a great blessing, the tent has plenty of pockets; moreover it is by no means small – 7 ft square or very near it. The men’s tent also is a great improvement on last year’s; there is ample headroom & the men servants can pass round without hitting one on the head with the dishes the tables are wooden (3 ply wood varnished) & it is supposed that messes will be wiped off without difficulty; and they fit conveniently round the poles, the lamps which burn paraffin vapour (assisted by some clockwork arrangement inside) are also good & an enormous improvement or the dim hurricane lamps used last time. In short a certain amount of care & forethought (chiefly Norton’s) has made us much more comfortable with me spending a great deal of money.

I must tell you dearest one how wonderfully fit I have been here last days, much better at this stage I’m sure than either in ’21 or ’22. I feel full of energy & strength & walk up hill here already almost as in the Alps; I sleep long & well; my digestion is good & in short I haven’t a trouble physically, unless one may count my ankle of which I’m often conscious but the leg seems perfectly strong & I’m sure it won’t let me down.

The General’s trouble has been an irregular pulse & he & Hingston are both nervous about the effects of these altitudes on his heart – consequently he is not coming with us to Kampa Dzong (last year’s route but in 6 days instead of 4) but by another way which will allow him to camp lower. It is difficult to know how much to make of this trouble (don’t mention it) I think it is 10 to 1 he will be all right.
I can’t write much more in this position & my arms are getting cold. I was going to tell you something about our plans but I will leave that until next letter. Tibet is much warmer this year though this afternoon was pretty cold.

Much love to all & many kisses to you dearest one.

Ever your loving
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 7 1916'

Had been with Bell all day and had written to Trafford, Arthur Benson, Geoffrey Young and Graves.

Hadn’t been back to the front line again mainly because of changing arrangements. They were expecting a new officer and Glen back again.

Thanks her for sending thick socks which he would save for winter. Ingrown toenail was hurting him.

Mentions leave but it was still too distant. Were having lovely weather. Assumed she was still at Westbrook.

Was quite pleased with his dug out. Asks her to write on thinner paper because her letters made a bulky package and he wouldn’t want to leave them behind when he returned to England.

Had enjoyed writing to Geoffrey about the Alps. Amazed by the desire he had for that side of life again. You would think he would like something less keen after the war but he didn’t feel like that at all. There was a great life out there and they must bring it off. He felt fit and healthy thanks to the war.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 7 1917'

Was still acting as a liaison officer with the French and describes how they viewed the English. He thought they were further on in their management of artillery and thought he would learn more by reading and discussing their pamphlets.

He had been recommended for a staff lieutenancy although he didn't know what sort of job he might be offered. He wouldn't choose that sort of job as it would always make him feel uncomfortable but it would be more active which he would like so if he was compelled in that direction he would be glad. He would be sorry to leave the battery and would find more people to dislike in the staff than he did in the group.

He liked the Lieutenant and Captain. They were above average intelligence and were ready to help and converse with him. He also liked their society because if he attempted to be humorous he was more likely to be understood.

He was warm by the stove and he had a charming man servant. He had been very lucky since he had returned from leave and hardly remembered what mud was and what it was like to be in a wet trench.

Thought she might be having a bad time but there was much to be happy about with a chance of real victory soon, a new baby, and him as safe as he could be at the moment.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

It was only 10 days until term started and he still hadn’t got his release. When was she moving into the Holt? Was sure he would come in for the move. No move would be complete without him.

She mentioned Mr Brooke several times. Thought he had met him at Brooke Hall and expected him to be quite interesting. Did she see the Head Master’s speech at the Head Master’s conference in which he said they should aim for voluntary Chapel which seemed a very long step for him. Wonders if he had read Clutton-Brock’s book and if so what he thought of it. Thought he would offer to preach in Chapel as it was important to have religious teaching other than official Church teaching.

Thanks her for the parcel of chocolates which were very good. Was sorry about the bad news of Violet’s father’s leg. Was afraid this would not increase the chances of Violet staying with them.

Had prepared his lecture for that afternoon which was on the growth of freedom in England.

Was sorry Clare had been unwell and she was to give her his love and tell her Daddy said she must be gay and happy and not cross.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They didn’t move on yesterday but were to go on tonight. Last two days had been idle and he had read the weekly Times and Daily Mail. They were all thrilled with the great sea fight [Battle of Jutland]. Felt the war was beginning to move, wonders about the effects of the artillery on both sides and what will happen when all the enemy attacks fail. Enemy was capable of inflicting great losses and the French had lost enormously at Verdun. They had been practically unmolested. Hopes they will move south. Germans were busy around Ypres.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from No. 1 General Base Depot, B.E. F. France

Once he began his next move he might not be able to write for a day or two. He had no news of that kind yet. He didn’t like waiting. They had been sent to see various works going on in the training ground and were supposed to censor letters in the mornings. He liked his days full and planned out so was not enjoying the waiting.

Had revolver practice and would be able to shoot a German 20 yards away if he stayed still and gave him plenty of time to aim. The Colonel talked to them all and presented them with a reprint of an article from The Times on the ‘Soldier’s Character’ which he and Ruth had read on the train from Weymouth. They were then shown the gas helmet and how to put it on and how to train a detachment to use it. It was unpleasant to use and one was generally sick with the smell of it. He took it as part of the beastliness of war.

That afternoon was fine and fresh after the rain and he walked alone in the lovely country. The camp was on a hillside overlooking Harfleur [he has drawn a diagram showing the position of the camp and the route of this walk]. The countryside was brilliant with fresh greens, beeches and poplars. He amused himself in Montvilliers until the children all crowed around demanding souvenirs and he had given them her return train ticket and two pencils. The Church was very good. A service was going on in memory of dead soldiers. There was a list in the porch of 75 men from Montvilliers who had been killed. As the town was the size of Godalming that number didn’t seem that great and if you used that as a basis French losses would total about 300,000. This was quite enough in all conscience and he knew the losses were far higher.

Was going to enclose a cutting from the French papers about the British training. Think Uncle Hawes would enjoy it and asks her to pass it on to Clutton-Brock.

The bravest thing she could do is be cheerful. Hoped to receive a letter from her tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had meant to answer her letters before dinner last night but had written to Mary Ann and after dinner he was very tired. Mary Ann had asked when he was likely to be back. They thought it would be six months after an armistice was called. This was silly as quite a large number would be gradually released as soon as an armistice was fixed and before general demobilisation. It was uncertain as they they didn’t know what reply the A. C. would make to Fletcher’s application [to release him early as he was a school master]. Would need to consider the situation regarding the supply of coal over the winter. Couldn’t turn the O’Malleys out of the Holt or themselves into the cold so they might have to live at Westbrook for 10 weeks.

Was sorry she wasn’t able to see the desired exponent of Montessori but she had been successful in getting the apparatus.

Glad his letters were arriving more regularly. Had she received the one in which he asked for a plane and a chisel? If not then she needn’t bother about it.

Liked what she said about Will and Ka who were a lovely couple. It would be a joy to knot up friendships after the war. They would have a sense of wonderful freedom from a depressing load after the war. He wrote to David that he felt that the sum of all the springs was bursting upon them. The only jar to their happiness would be his personal ambitions and she would have to help him keep them in order.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 7 1916'

Comments on the contents of her letters in which she referenced his remarks on ordering the Shakespeare book and his views on heaven and hell. He had received letters from Ursula, Benson, and David. Had been into Corbie to buy flour for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Ripon on Sunday

He was currently sitting at a large open sash window on the first floor of a Georgian house looking out over a square in Ripon which was pleasant and quiet. This was very different to the previous day as there were 40-50,000 troops stationed in the neighbourhood and the street seemed a scene of barbaric turmoil after the quiet of the mountains. It had rained so they had been unable to go to the surrounding countryside as planned. Trafford was supposed to have arrived with a sidecar and he [Mallory] brought a bike from Birkenhead. However, Trafford had not arrived in Ripon and the soldiers had taken all the bikes in the town so their mobility was limited. They had a huge pile of luggage but no power of mobility. He hoped they could find a place to stay in the country until Wednesday when his father had to leave him.

Trafford had obtained his father’s consent to his marriage and had gone to London to make arrangements, but they had received no wire from him. All the troops that had been in the cathedral had now left and were marching in columns in the square and he couldn’t work out how they didn’t run into each other. He had enjoyed his time in Wales and had left it with many regrets.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 8'

Another officer had arrived. The weather was very hot. Glen hadn’t returned yet and his recovery would be slower than previously thought. There was a scarcity of papers and he hadn’t heard much of what was going on in the war elsewhere. Was due to visit the Field Cashier and hoped to get French papers.

They were settling in quite happily. Violent bombardment last night but he didn’t know the results. Believed something important was going on where the French were but didn’t know which side was attacking. Had read Keats to soothe himself to sleep. Asks what she was doing and wishes he could bathe in a cool river. Bike punctured so had to walk. Came back with a bunch of flowers.
Disturbing news about lack of information about Kut prisoners. Comments on a letter from Mr Allen. Comments on Ruth’s letter and why people read something which is not for enjoyment.

He was in the dug out with Bell who was on the top bunk. They were idle and enjoying the sunshine. His wits were too dull to write a longer letter. Asks for news of the garden at the Holt.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 8 1916'

Yesterday he was in Amiens with Wood. He had fixed up the contract for pork and sausages for Xmas. Had dined and played Bridge with the neighbouring H.A.G. headquarters.

Dud day as far as the observation post was concerned as it was raining this morning and impossible to see more than 400 yards all day. He and four men had occupied the half way house and he had spent the time reading Rob Roy [by Walter Scott]. They chatted but weren’t a particularly interesting party. About six hours with no employment.

Had a good letter from her in response to his about the postponement of leave and she was very brave. It may come quicker than he had thought. The Romanian news was so disgusting that he reused to make any comments.

He was feeling better after his feverish cold. Asked for more details about her religious society.

[Letter continues later] - He had just been playing race demons with Lithgow and he describes the game.

Had received letters from her, Mrs Brock, Ursula, and Avie. Wishes Avie would go and stay at Westbrook. Was sorry to hear that the Headmaster [of Charterhouse] was unwell.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford on his was back from Paris. He had completed his purchases of books and was on the way to the library when he went back to look at a picture in a shop he had seen the day before. The artist arrived while he was still in the shop. He was a young man injured in the leg during the war and he arranged to go and visit his studio. Describes the painting and whether they should buy it. Asked the artist to paint Clare if were to come to England.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from ‘Kampa Dzong’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Description
Dr Kellas had been buried. Raeburn was declared unfit and had returned to Sikkim and so there was no-one left with experience of climbing in the Himalayas. Describes Bullock, Wheeler and Herron and outlines their plans. Talks about the food they eat. Describes his first view of Everest from 100 miles away.

Detailed Summary
Dr Kellas had been buried in sight of the three great peaks he had climbed Pahonri [Pauhunri], Kinchenjan [Kinchenjhau] and Chomiomo [Chomo Yummo]. Raeburn had been pronounced unfit to proceed and Wollaston had taken him to a place in Sikkim to recover. Wollaston had then returned to reach Tinki Dzong. This was a disaster as they were are now left without anyone who had experience in the Himalayas. Morshead had limited experience and Mallory had criticisms of Raeburn. They planned to see the N.E. side of Everest and hoped to see the N.W. side to solve a big problem of topography. He was still hopeful of attacking Everest that year with Bullock and Morshead, but that goal seemed a very long way off. Evaluates Bullock, Wheeler, and Herron. Kampa Dzong had been pleasant change. They had supplemented their food with sheep, gazelle, gammon, goose, fish, and half-cooked vegetables. Hoped to find eggs at their high elevation of about 15,000 ft.

He was feeling extraordinarily fit and was much moved by the prospect of a nearer approach to Everest. He describes his first view of the mountain from 100 miles away, ‘It is colossal even at this distance - a great blunty pointed snow peak…with a much steeper north face than people have made out’. He thinks that the N.W. side of the mountain, facing the Arun river, up which the monsoon cloud came had the bigger snowfall. He describes the landscape of the Arun valley and that he was sorry they wouldn’t see the east side of the mountain.

[Letter continues later] - It had been a jolly day. He now had a better mule after giving his up to Raeburn. He and Bullock were surveying the country.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory written from onboard ship on Anchor Line, T.M.S. California letter headed paper.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

We shall be at Port Said tomorrow and its time I were writing to you again. It is being a voyage particularly without incident, as we shall land only once, for a short time, before reaching Bombay. But one unforgettable thing has happened – the approach to Gibraltar. I was fortunate enough to wake before sunrise and went on deck. We were steaming due East and straight ahead was the orange glow streaming over the sky. Towards the centre of it the long dim lines of land on either converged and left a gap – quite a small gap between little lumps of land, for the straits were 20 miles away or more. We were aiming straight for this little hole in the skyline where the light was brightest, and I had to most irresistible feeling of a romantic world; we had only to pop through the hole like Alice through the garden door to reach a new scene or a whole kingdom of adventures.

The other important thing that has happened to me is that I have in some way strained my left hip in the gymnasium about 5 days ago. It gave me considerable pain for two days like sciatica, a pain in some important nerve all down the leg – the sciatic nerve I understand is in the back of the leg and this one was in the side. The leg is much better, though not yet well. I ran ten times round the deck this morning; but that doesn’t prove as much as you might think, because it is rather the lifting movements that are weak. However I have a fortnight, nearly, to Darjeeling and I’ve little doubt the hip will be all right by then.

I have finished reading Maurois’ Ariel [Andre Maurois’ Life of Shelly or Ariel] with much interest. I knew the early life in Hogg and the last scenes in Trelawney’s Recollections which I think you have read, a charming book, but I have never before read a connected account of the whole life. Shelley certainly had an extraordinary gift of love, and love of a very pure and sublimated kind. Maurois makes out that he had lost his love for Mary Shelley and was in love with Anne Williams at the end. But he shows at the same time that his relations with Mary remained of a very tender sort and he was very thoughtful on her behalf, and as they lived in the same house with Williams, it is a little difficult to make out that he preferred Anne to Mary. It is an interesting story because in so far as Shelley’s relations with Mary were impaired it was simply by the friction of everyday life; he was the most unselfish of men but the glamour of Mary wore off a bit when he saw her as a housewife. She certainly had little enough of his society when he was making poems; but I’m inclined to think that she had Shelley all the time. It might interest you sometime to read the book which is translated into English (my copy is in French); or you might get Dowden’s Life from the London Library [The Life of Percy Bysche Shelley by Edward Dowden].

I have many thoughts of you dearest one, and I think reading Shelley’s life had made me think about you very particularly. I fear I don’t make you very happy. Life has too often been a burden to you lately and it is horrid when we don’t get more time and talk together. Of course we have both had too much to do and I have hated thinking that it must fall upon you to do the car for instance which has often been an unpleasant grind, when you might otherwise have been painting china, or one thing or another more profitable to your soul. Somehow or another we must contrive to manage differently; to have some first charge upon available time for our life together. What with a car and a stove and our new house altogether we seem to have got terribly stuck with material considerations and how often we talk of nothing but what has to be done to the ball rolling as though it were so much business to be transacted! I think we might get that better perhaps by resolving together to value the perfection of everyday home life and trying to feel that little arrangements belong to our ideals. There is a satisfaction if not enjoyment to be got from just arranging things well, and certainly in doing things themselves unpleasant or indifferent provided the end in view is sufficiently present to the mind.

I don’t mind in the least seeing you as a housewife; I like it and I like the way you carry it through and I like the pleasant relationships which you make about you. But I don’t want you materialised by housewifery – you have to control the business and not allow it to control you – as indeed you do; but keep a watch on yourself.

I much hope you somehow find time for painting china this summer dear one, it is so good for you and makes you so nice. Don’t think you must spend hours of time knitting knicker for John etc; if that must be thought of from a money point of view you could probably sell the china for the extra money you would pay for getting a large part of such work done for you or by buying things ready made; and anyway put the spiritual sort of thing first. You’ll be occupied I know a great deal in the garden. I think by the by you should get a roller before long – and how would it be to get a boy to come and roll every Sat. afternoon – or some such scheme?

Dear love it makes me happy to be writing to you and thinking of you now. It won’t be so very long after you get this before you go away from Cambridge. I do hope you will have a good change – do what you like, enjoy yourself, and be free from worries – why shouldn’t you spend a few days in London and see plenty of people, it would be good for you.
I shall hear in your first letter how you enjoyed the Greek Play and whether Northfield has begun building the walls. How I wish I could hear from you at Port Said tomorrow.

I have told you almost nothing about my activities on board or about my companions. I read and write and play a certain amount of deck tennis; and about every other evening Bridge. We have got up an oxygen apparatus from the baggage room and have been playing about with it. Irvine finds fault with it, but if it is all sound and doesn’t leak in spite of the desperate haste with which it was put together it should do well enough – I’m bound to say I think it a big if.

Things have got to the tiresome stage when people I have never spoken come up to me and begin asking questions about the expedition – some of course have heard me lecture – or ask leave to take my photo – consequently I tend to be unsociable at one extremity of or other of the boat, where one can usually get away from the crowd.

The weather has been perfect though hardly warm enough except the first day in the Mediterranean. I can’t believe it will be hot even in the Red Sea but I suppose it will.

It was very jolly seeing the Sierra Nevada again and also a long stretch of the African mountains, though Mt. Atlas didn’t clear.
I’m awfully bad about writing odds and ends of new about life round me aren’t I. I suppose I ought to tell you about deck competitions; but they don’t interest me and I entered for none except – Irvine it was, persuaded me to go in for a spoon and potato race in which I had a brilliant success and was only knocked out in the final where one potato was really impossible.

I long for some news of the great world; we hear a few snippets of wireless – this morning I learned that a Frenchman murdered his aunt; I suppose she was impossible.

Well my darling Ruth, I will take leave of you. With great love from your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 8 1916'

Lithgow had gone on special leave. Bell was in command and he was 2nd which meant they got to work together. The car was out of action for two weeks. Weather was fine and the wind had changed so hoped they would be spared the deluge for a day or two. His dugout leaked the day before yesterday. Thought he could take measures to prevent that.

Had received letters from her and Mrs Fletcher. The Headmaster hoped to be back at Charterhouse in September. She talked about the unfortunate interest in Robert’s relationship with Johnstone whose mother had found some affectionate letters and refused to allow Robert to see him.

Comments on the questions in her letters - the enclosure from Mr Greig’s solicitors and whether he needed a second table cloth.

Earl had come to lunch. They were in agreement about the war. He would like to cut the Germans’ communications with Turkey before they finished but that shouldn’t delay efforts to obtain terms. Discusses Germany’s move into Poland, French success being due to a mistake by the Germans rather than a weakening of the line, Italy’s advance, and that Germany were paying in the west for her efforts in the east.

Hopes Violet gets better from her toothache quickly.

[Postscript] - asks her to send any copies of his letters which mention the life of the battery as he had to make a war diary - a tiresome job.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He was feeling lazy tonight and hated himself for it. He seldom went to bed before midnight but was always first to breakfast which they never had before 9 am. They were having very bad weather which was rather depressing. Went to Arras that morning with Knibbs to shop for the mess. The cathedral had been used as an observation post and suffered damage.

Had received three letters from her and the curtain which he would hang tomorrow and it would be admired. He was happy to have the bill. They were cosy and had two rugs of the thinnest and meagrest description which served to cover the worst of the floor near the fireplace.

They seemed in agreement about returning to the Holt. He wasn’t tiring of Montessori, it was interesting that she was learning all about it. To answer her question about furniture they had apart from the table, they had three armchairs and the low deep shelves. It wasn’t a big apartment. He had been wondering about the Alpine Journal and was glad she had sent it but it hadn’t arrived yet. They ought to get advice about a piano and had better get a second hand one to start with, though even that would be expensive.

Glad he had been mostly right about the end of the war. Had seen some quotes from the Times which were idiotic. The Manchester Guardian had been quite good. A recent article upbraided people for not wanting peace now it was in sight and it had been very angry with the armistice terms to Turkey for not insisting on occupying Armenia for the sake of the Armenians. It drew attention to the Austrian situation fairly early. He hadn’t really thought about the issue of punishing individual Germans. It wasn’t worth fighting a day longer for that. What crime compares with the original one of starting the war for which the whole country was responsible and would be punished. Where would you draw the line when punishing individuals who would argue they were following orders?

9th - A lovely frosty, sunny morning. Would possibly go searching for Geoffrey Keynes who was about 20 miles from there. The car would have to get beer for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 8 1916'

Had orders to go to the observation post at daybreak but at 4am was told it wasn’t worth it as the stunt was almost early. Thinks the infantry must have gone over very early and done well as he understood they had taken Le Sars.

Had an idle day. Wrote to Raymond as he had seen his name in the lists yesterday. Also wrote to Mr Fletcher for Cathusian news. Had a game of chess with Dunbar, been for a walk, and developed his ideas for his book. Bell had played his flute. Describes relations between other officers - Bell, Casey, Dunbar, and Lithgow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 9 1917'

Still hadn't found the secret code book.

The 1st, 3rd and 5th armies had achieved their first objective and the next act in the war was to begin. He could only watch on and would rather be in the thick of it. It seemed all the world depended on the next few days or weeks.

He was sitting in a tent waiting for Hutchinson to return from dining with the other half of the battery. It was a cold night. They needed fine weather for real success. Had spent two days nursing his ankle and he hated enforced inactivity.

Had heard more about the offensive and he details numbers of guns and prisoners captured.

Parcel of clothes had arrived with the other mug and six refills. The only thing he wanted now was more toothpaste.

He had found three men drunk when they should have been on duty and he would have to give evidence to the Colonel. Two would be in the soup as it was a very serious offence. He disliked the whole business very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Castlestead, Pateley Bridge on Monday

They had left Ripon and were in Nidderdale staying in a railway carriage in the gardens of a country house which were used as an overflow for guests from the main house. He and his father had been cycling in the countryside around Ripon. His father often amused him and often shocked him by saying outrageous things but he never talked about family matters. He was a terrible snob.

He regrets not having seen Fountains Abbey again and but hoped to stay a couple of extra days after his father had left so that he could visit it along with Bolton Abbey and Skipton Castle. Trafford would probably get married on 19th and he would tell her the full story later. He was sitting near lots of wild raspberries which reminded him of Exmoor and says lots of little things remind him of Devonshire.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes his and Bullock's reconnaisance. Initial misunderstanding about he two Chomolingas. Describes troubles with rations, taking photographs and the landscape and flowers.

Detailed Summary
There would be reports in The Times about the expedition which had been extraordinarily exciting and interesting in the last week. Their idea was to follow a great valley north of Everest where they saw the pass of their desire between Everest and the first peak to the North, but after three days travelling in the clouds they found they were cut off from the north col by an impassable barrier. They were disappointed. They were retracing their steps and this misadventure was part of the reconnaissance.

Describes their first day’s march, getting rations at a village, and being told by locals that the way to Chomolungma [Tibetan name for Everest] was to the left but they soon made disconcerting observations that they were not going the correct way. On the second days march they went up 4,000 ft seeing lovely flowers, two pretty lakes and grazing ground for yaks.

Then headed south west but from Kharta their direction should have been due west. Their local guide told them there were two Chomolungas, they guessed the other was Makalu. Explained they wanted to go to the one which was to the right. On the following morning's march there was a steep valley bed, a stream, a rickety bridge, lovely meadows, the end of a glacier, and a steep hillside running up to a tremendous cliff. They were following a valley from Makalu to Everest.

Reports on rain, Tibetan tents, and feeling baffled as they wanted to be to the north of the east or north east ridge. There was another valley running east and west ending in the col between Everest and the North Peak.

They saw the great east face of Everest and assessed that all the lower slopes were impossible from a climber’s point of view. Describes the east ridge and landscape. The following day they pushed on toward an advance camp to about 18,000 ft in poor weather.

Woke on 7 August to a cloudless starry sky. Describes the colours of the mountains. The whole range of peaks far exceeded any mountain scenery that he ever saw before.

He waited to take photos at sunrise and if they didn't come out well he would cry. Their objective was to get up a pass and a big glacier that blocked their view to the north col. Had a hurried breakfast, took more photographs and pushed toward the third peak from the east ridge of Everest.

They could see clearly that Everest joined other peaks and wanted to see more. Bullock thought the next section would prove impossible and it was stiff work. Whilst the party lay down and slept he took photographs and examined the north peak. As the desired view was still hidden he took two volunteers to the top with him. It was only a matter of 500 ft, but the snow was very deep and lying at a terribly steep angle and they had a struggle. They got to the summit of that peak and he could see a high snow cwm under the north east face of Everest. The next objective was to find the outlet.

The next day’s march would take them through an undiscovered country. For the first time he was not feeling perfectly well. The glands of his throat and most of the muscles were affected but that could be nothing to do with the exertions of climbing.

There had been trouble about the porters' rations. Wollaston and Morshead were at Kharta and Wheeler was not expected for another fortnight. Describes the flowers he had recently seen and thought they might be a new discovery. Was disappointed when Howard-Bury told him Wollaston had made an earlier discovery.

Was sorry he couldn't share his photographs with her. The bad ones were hardly worth sending and Howard-Bury had sent some photos home to the Royal Geographical Society. Suggests she find a way of seeing them there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 9 1916'

Didn’t want to say anything about leave again as she would be disappointed if it wasn’t true but he hoped his leave would be very soon. He was due to be at the observation post again tomorrow. The weather was more disagreeable than he could imagine and he hadn’t seen the sun for 20 days.

He hopes there wouldn't be any delay to his leave this time. [There wasn’t and he was home a few days later returning to France on Boxing Day].

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford and had been taken up in a Bristol by one of the pilots. Describes the stuns they did in the plane. Refused to let the pilot loop the loop because he wasn’t strapped in and the pilot had a reckless face.

Pemberton had been fetched from near Calais and was going to stay for some days.

Still no news about his return. It had been four weeks since his application had gone in and he was getting anxious.

Had received a letter from Brother Giles who had suffered an enteric fever [typhoid fever] and maleria and was now at the base with views of Kenia [Kenya] and Kilimanjaro. She could pass this on to Allen and Hoenni if she saw them. The Hoennis would be very glad to see her.

He was glad to be with his brother officers again and the sweet air was very pleasant after Paris. He had received a note from David after his visit to Westbrook who said she was ravishingly beautiful.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 9 1917'

The Colonel had visited the previous day and at his instigation brought a bottle of whisky with him which was well received by the French.

There had been a disquieting break before he could continue the letter but he couldn't give details except that the French batteries had been badly bombarded. He was mainly concerned with counter battery work.

He had walked a short distance to see an 'Archie' battery and found Buttonshaw who hadn't liked the O. C. in the 42 Battery and so had got out. Hoped they would do some good firing as the French weren't impressed with the English work so far.

He had started keeping a literary notebook in which to work out his ideas.

He hadn't written to anyone but her since he returned from leave. Asks if she had heard from Mary as he had received a letter from Ralph saying she was unwell. Asks how Doris Mallory was and if she had heard from her or Trafford who he was concerned for until he had got busy and then he had forgotten about him.

He liked the quiet exile as long as it remained quiet.

10th Feb - the Colonel had sounded happy on the telephone and he was going to visit the French aviation for him. He was glad of an outing. There was nothing much to do between lunch and dinner and they hadn't been receiving many papers which he wanted to read to see the opinion of the neutrals. He wanted America to join the war to damage German morale.

He wasn't in the mood to write to her but wanted to sit and talk to her and see her reaction to things. He was sitting in his white chamber which was rapidly becoming brown and black because of the stove. He had chill blanes on his right foot.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’95 Arlington Avenue Westmount, P.Q.’ [Letterhead] [‘i.e.at the Basil Williams Montreal’ is written in Mallory’s hand]

Brief Summary
Reports on recent lecture in New York, complains of his lectures being reported as Anti-Prohibition propaganda, and describes social visits with friends in New York and Canada.

Detailed Summary
He was delighted to be in Montreal with friends including Mrs Williams, who had visited the Holt with Evelyn Clutton-Brock whilst he was away on the 1921 expedition. His fortunes had changed from hateful N.Y. His first lecture in New York had not been encouraging with technical difficulties caused by a 2nd rate operator and the hall full theatre had been depressing. However, all the members of the American Alpine Club who had attended the dinner were in the audience and they went away saying nice things. Afterwards they had gone to a hotel to eat ices which was a pleasant little party consisting of the Wethams, Mrs Colden Sanderson, Frisken, Poel and an actress friend of his.

It was important for his lectures to have good press but when he read the papers at breakfast there was almost nothing. A New York Times had 1/3rd of a column but it was turned into Anti-Prohibition propaganda. The Tribune gave a very good and sympathetic report.

He had lectured at a Country Club outside the city which was a dull affair before catching a train to Montreal. Had a good walk up the mountain with a wonderful view of the southern branch of St Lawrence and Montreal. The countryside was all snow and ice and it had been -10 when he had arrived. The Canadians didn’t like the cold as too many days in t took it out of one.

His next lecture was in Detroit (Michigan) but Toronto fell through. Keedick’s business was very badly run. He planned to spend the weekend with a friend, Monsieur Williams, whom he had known and liked at Charterhouse at a winter sports place. He planned to learn to ski from John Williams who was aged aged 16 and thought him a promising pupil on skis. He said the difficulty was to learn to stop, and until one had you just had to fall down.

He was much more cheerful and put it down to staying there with delightful people instead of by himself in a hotel. He missed her and found it much harder being without her there than in India.

His lecture there had gone very well and the audience were very good natured and amused.