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MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/59 · Item · 4 August 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 4 1916'

Full Transcript

Dearest Ruth,

I’m still in the battery, neither Bell nor I was up in the line yesterday and he is taking his 3rd day now – tomorrow my turn again. The men are digging themselves in very comfortably down here, and most of them have very good places to sleep in – much more agreeable than the old dugouts a little way apart up the hill in the trenches but not so safe. I am sitting in the evening sun on the steps of the Xc’s post & much busyness is going on all around me – the making of wire beds etc. This gorgeous weather with a clean cool breeze is the greatest blessing. I only wish the nights were as peaceful as the days. But we have good news from the infantry again today and German helmets of prisoners are in evidence. The men here at once say that the war will be over for a fortnight, and evidently some of them do quite definitely entertain the happy thought without really believing such an event probable. What a sum total of thoughts there must be about the end of the war!

I’m with you very often in Westbrook garden and in the drawing room too and many a time Clare is with us. I like all you tell me about her. You don’t seem to understand why she doesn’t crawl but can’t you see the heredity in it as how would you expect a daughter of mine to be crawling – did you ever see me stick my knee against a rock if any foothold would serve? Naturally she won’t rub her knees along the floor when she sees other folk walking. I imagine the garden quite glorious now in the golden sunshine. I want to see the great elm trees looking dark above the valley on the far side of the corn fields – or is it no corn that one may see this year from the look out by the spring garden? I know what the heart will leap to most readily – just cultivation – to see land solid well cared for, teams of cart horses t work in the fields, the farm hand sowing or reaping it doesn’t matter which and good manure being dug well in. I think I should fancy Herefordshire for mere country after this plaque spot – or the Tern Valley which we will assuredly one day visit, that would do me.

I wonder if you’ll find me different I think not. Slightly more self indulgent perhaps, a bit easier going – I was wanting to be that before ever I came out here. But I don’t think I shall ever be a person to let myself off easily because if ever I’m finding excuses for myself I’m desperately unhappy and that gives the show away.

Lazy – you may find me very lazy, I hope not. One thing has come upon me lately – its no god pretending I can be satisfied with life if it offers too few opportunities for deep thinking; nothing annoys me more than not to be efficient and yet I perceive a real opposition between what is usually meant by efficiency and the experience of thought as I understand it, its no use any more pretending there is none. I can very often get myself to do correctly a number of little things which efficiency demands (I’m not only referring to the soldiers life) but they give me no satisfaction when done, my mind is in a state of constant rebellion. I believe that always will be so.

Yesterday in some spare moments I began a poem, I don’t imagine it will ever be finished perhaps never continued but when I tell you what it is about you will understand my state of mind. It is called ‘BED’. Not that I am as a rule particularly fatigued – merely that Bed is the nesting place of ideas. There I can be alone in high solitary state and simply think. That is good.
Well my dear Ruth. I want you far more and more ans see my life as it were from a considerable distance. I see you more and more clearly as the one person for me. Dearest how I love you! How the great understanding has grown between us! Don’t you feel that? You’ll never bore me and I’m sure you’re the ne person in the world who wouldn’t.

Fare thee well beloved. Kiss Clare for me and then the Westbrook household.
Your loving George.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/60 · Item · 4 August 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 4'

Describes night on duty especially the noise which he hates.

Back in the battery for 3 days now. Describes his duties. Glen was returning to them soon but Quinn had died of his wounds.
They were on rations but he had contrived to get chocolate and biscuits for the men. Hoped the chocolate cake would arrive that day. Asked her to try and send 'cold spring fruit saline' which he had just tried and thought delicious. Thinks men would put up with a lot if only they were well fed.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/11 · Item · 4 - 5 February 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 4 1917'

Describes the room that he was sitting writing to her in. He was comfortable and alone and liked that. He had also had a change of companions from an English Colonel to three Frenchmen as he was now acting as a liaison officer. He felt like a stranger in a strange land as the French were kind and polite but didn’t like the English. He sympathised with them as he had often been amazed by the bad manners of the English Officers towards the French but he didn’t want them to have a bad opinion of the English altogether.

5 Feb – not much was happening that day. He was beginning to like the people there especially the Lieutenant. He describes the Colonel and Captain. The news from America had come through that evening which wasn’t surprising and was very satisfactory.

Had been reading Rupert Brooke’s book John Webster & the Elizabethan Drama and so far he didn’t like it. It had all the faults of youth and too little to redeem them. He was a charming person and he liked him up to a certain point but he didn’t feel like taking him as a gospel, much as he admired his talent for poetry. His prose was clumsy and ugly and he didn’t always know what he was talking about.

During the day they lived more or less in the office. Had coffee in the morning when they wanted it, lunch at 11.30am and dinner at 7pm (no afternoon tea). One retires after dinner. Had a pleasant walk although not as interesting as the marshes.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/2 · Item · 4 January 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 4 1916' [it was actually written in 1917]

Bell was on his way back to join his new battery and Captain Lithgow had been awarded a Military Cross and he was dining at the battery that evening to celebrate both events.

Had spent 2 gay evenings playing poker chiefly to amuse the Colonel. It was annoying that there wasn’t much for anyone there to do but supposed it would be different when big operations were going on.

He had read more of A Shepherd’s Life and asks if she had too.

Trafford had called to ask him to meet him at a Hotel in Amiens.

Supposes she would have Ursula with her and asks Ruth to tell her the carols had arrived two days ago along with Mother’s Xmas parcel. Avie’s was still to come.

Music was at a discount and he couldn’t practice the occharina there but they did have a good gramophone.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/43 · Item · 4 July 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Describes the build up to the beginning of the battle when they bombarded the German line and watched the Infantry arriving, and the first few day of battle - the din, firing rounds and watching the walking wounded and bands of prisoners pass by.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/28 · Item · 4 June 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They had a busy three days but things were settling down. Describes his duties of setting the men to work and checking on them. He was in charge of the guns for the first week, and had to see to ammunition. Asks her to send ‘Liverpool Virus’ as soon as possible to deal with the rats. The wild strawberries were delicious. Describes some of his companions - didn’t like two young subs but did like Lithgow, Bell and the Captain of the other half battery. Next week he would be doing O.P. work [observation post]. Cakes and soup tablets were most welcome.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/11 · Item · 4 May 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the British Officers' Club, France [he had arrived in Le Havre, France]

Had breakfast in the open air at a café and had experienced the same note of pleasure as he had when in France before. He had ordered and made purchases in French as his companions didn't speak the language. They were pitched very happily in quite a grand house with spacious florid rooms, oak parquet floors and much ornamented ceilings.

[Broke off writing to attend an office in town to receive his orders] - he had learned nothing of his destiny except that they would go to a camp that afternoon and he would send her a postcard with an address if he knew it by then.

He had had an uncomfortable journey the night before but couldn't tell her any details for fear of infringing the laws of censorship.

He was missing having her with him. She was so beautiful and splendidly brave yesterday afternoon. Their last moments would stay with him in spite of their sadness, as great joyous ones. He had gone off with her return train ticket. Hopes that having a practical thing to bother about would have helped her.

He found his companions very kind and pleasant yesterday. Hopes that she will get the letter tomorrow and wants to hear that she is somehow happy.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/42 · Item · 4 May 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'May 4 1917'

Busy day at the observation post. Had tried to hit some distant Germans but missed and he was keenly disappointed. They had fired a lot in the last few days but were no further forward and there seemed little happing further north too.

It was lovely and warm and he was feeling quite sunburnt. There were larks singing and swallows who couldn’t find eaves on houses to nest in.

Was glad she had seen Trafford and Doris. He didn’t know Trafford was going home, thought he was to get a job in France. Trafford was a Major now but promotion in the Royal Flying Corps was rapid. Was glad he was safely back. Was surprised Mary was having another baby as her health was delicate.

He kept looking up at the German planes which they were shooting at as he had never seen one shot down.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/88 · Item · 4 October 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 4 6.30am'

Had to go on obervation duty which would be difficult as the line was rather muddled. It had been raining again and everything was in a horrid mess and had stopped operations. The last two days had been very quiet. He was still in his old dug out. Lithgow was with the left half forward position. They should have all been together but the digging hadn’t got on due to firing and wet weather.

Acknowledges receipt of the cake. Had been looking at the photos of Clare again.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/51 · Item · 4 September 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Gives her Reade’s address. Comments on the timing of when the post arrives. He had found his pouch which was in his suitcase.

He had been watching horses being groomed, counted them and got them into line for inspection where they were inspected by a team of veterinary officers. Comments on how little there was to do in the camp. Had met an officer on a horse and had gone for canter which he had enjoyed.

Asks her to deal with the rolls of film and prepare a complete set of prints for Frances Gordon.

Had written to Courtney but he was with a battery in Macedonia. His parents had invited him to visit.

Thought he would bathe at Gunner’s Hole after evensong in the cathedral.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/8 · Item · 5 August 1915
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Thursday

They planned to go to see the Cwellyn country and would get a car to take them the five miles down the hill so they would only have to walk once over Snowdon. The two men fell out yesterday about climbing so he took Cottie and Ursula up the slanting Buttress of Lliwell which had a beautiful view from the top. Cottie was unable to join the party that day which was positively sickening as she was longing to see it.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1918/30 · Item · 5 December 1918
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Describes the purchases he had spent a long time over choosing which included embroideries for the Holt and some books. Describes the bookshops he had been into. Hopes she doesn’t think he has been extravagent.

Had been to the library and held with indescribeable emotion the manuscript of Figaro from which Beaumarchais had read out his play. It had many corrections. It was a genuine sense of wonder and enthusiasm to hold such a document in his hand and more than interesting to see the trials of authorship were the same as they were for him.

Answers her question about opera and explains how it is founded upon well known stories and the libretto was written by a composer.

Had been to the Comédie Française which was a good piece but not one of the very best.

Was sorry he couldn’t stay longer in Paris but was more sorry that he hadn’t received a telegram giving him leave to return to England.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1919/4 · Item · 5 January 1919
Part of Personal Papers

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had put in for an allotment of leave which hadn’t been refused yet so he was hopeful he would be home soon.

He was busy writing more lectures on freedom and democracy and some economic aspects of history. Was enjoying teaching his French classes. Had succeeded in getting two books from the Y.M.C.A. in Calais. His mind was in a pitiful state anticipating his leave at any moment. He would be heartily glad to say goodbye to the officers of the Right Section.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/13 · Item · 5 June 1921
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from ‘Kampa Dzong’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes events of 1- 5 June and the difficulties faced on their journey, culminating with the death of Dr Kellas.

Detailed Summary
Dr Kellas had died that afternoon after his condition had worsened. Describes events leading up to his death including being carried from Phari, telling of his, Bullock, Heron and Wollaston’s efforts to aid and comfort Dr Kellas and plans for burial the next morning.

Describes his own fitness and that they had reached 17,500 ft in elevation, describing the views and the wind. Shares a tent with Bullock and was sleeping well.

[Letter continues later] - provides a recap of the last few days, 1-5 June. They are in the tableland of Tibet and the first stage of their journey was done. Sikkim was a formidable country to travel in. The government mules performed poorley so they had hired Tibetan mules. He describes crossing the Jelep La where he was mountain sick despite all his Alpine experience, the Chumbi Valley, the change of scenery from a tropical to a drier climate, the flowers which covered the hillsides, and seeing Tibetans and houses, as well as stopping at the English trading station at the village of Yatung. Describes the plains and mountain valleys, and of being surprised by the sight of a steep snow mountain traversing up alone at an incredible distance away. Phari proved they had come to a new world. Describes the town, its shops and animal inhabitants, its living arrangements at close quarters and how he slept in a bungalow outside the town.

When leaving Phari the real difficulties of transport began as they turned westward to Kampa Dzong and had to haggle with local herdsman for donkeys. The next stage of travel was dreary, yet he felt fortunate there was a snow mountain to be looked at. Mentions his thoughts on the appearance of Chomolhari (about 24,000 ft). The country was beautiful, but their great enemy was the wind.

No one would give much for their chances of getting up Mount Everest. He evaluates the physical conditions of those in the party, including Dr Kellas [written before his death], Wheeler, Raeburn, Heron, Howard-Bury, Bullock, Wollaston, reporting they had all been better since they had opened their stores at Phari. They planned to meet Moreshead at Kompa Dzong on about 5 June.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/9 · Item · 5 March 1923
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Toledo Club’ [Letterhead]

He had been staying with the Burrs who were a lovely couple [he describes them].

He had given a lecture at Harvard where the audience had received him well and were ‘evidently thrilled and amused’. People over there were really impressed by the story and he felt the lectures had been worthwhile even though the number had remained small. The other lecture in Boston had been attended by members of the Rucksack Club, Pinnacle Club, and the Appalachian Mountain Club. He had dined before the lecture and shaken hands with an incredible number of people. He preferred the New Englanders to the New Yorkers. A public lecture was going to be arranged in Boston later and the clubs wanted him too but very few would pay the price.

He left Boston on Friday after being interviewed by the press and travelled to Philadelphia for a lecture on Saturday with a big audience of at least 1200. On Monday he took a train to Toledo for an evening lecture and comments on the architecture he saw. He was travelling overnight on the train to Buffalo and hoped to see Niagara the following day.

Thanks Clare for her letter.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/105 · Item · 5 November 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Had been very busy firing in a high wind which was exhilarating after the comparative idleness they had had lately. Yesterday he had been to the vegetable market in Amiens early to get potatoes.

Was now down in the mess having just finished censoring letters. Had just found a letter for her in his overcoat pocket which would mean she had to wait for a letter. Tells her not to be anxious as if he had been killed she would have heard at once.

He had heard from Trafford. He was in the next Corps to he hoped to be able to see him. Trafford was very pleased by Ruth’s visit to Doris. Was surprised that they couldn’t afford a nurse as Trafford was getting very good pay.

Two good evenings - Platnauer was quite a success and last night he had got talking to Bell till 10.30.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1918/11 · Item · 5 November 1918
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The post had become erratic again and, as he didn’t have a letter from her to respond to, he didn’t feel like corresponding as there was nothing much going on. The most exciting event that had happened was his visit to a lagoon with Wilson and Knibbs. These were a series of large ponds on the other side of the river. He had previously discovered a boat there which turned out to be a lumpy old barge with two improvised oars and one seat for the oarsman. They explored the lagoon and then decided to transfer it to the river which was hard work. They planned to go down river and visit a friend of Wilson’s. There were obstacles near where the French were reconstructing a railway bridge over the river and they had to get them to help partially demolish a wooden foot bridge to let them pass. They did so willingly and were amused by their performance. When they reached their destination they found the man they had come to see was out.

Today was wet and he had only left the truck to go to A. [Arras] to interview the joiner about some windows. The Major hadn’t gone to Versailles in the end. Wilson had left to go on a three week gunnery course. Glad it wasn’t him. The left section were still at the Base. Hoped they would come up soon as it would be amusing to see them.

Frequently thought of their future at the Holt with relish but how would she solve the preliminary difficulties of fuel and servants etc. He was impatient about the delay in publishing terms and hated to think of the war lasting a day longer than it needed to. Had rather lost interest in the war and politics at present although that would change when peace talks started.

Wanted to hear more about her trip to London. What books did she find in the London Library? Thanks her for looking for articles for him.

Sends his congratulations to her father on his recovery and asks when he was likely to walk again.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/74 · Item · 5 September 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 5 1916'

Had received two letters from her. The Garretts used to live at Aldburgh and had a sailing boat there. Describes how Uncle Lawrence, Aunt Patty, and Doris would react to a boat.

Had been in the observation post yesterday using visual signaling and it had been rather an enjoyable day. Had arranged to furnish the new ante-room which was for reading and writing [sketch provided]. Describes layout and that it would seat 3 comfortably or 4 at a pinch.

Wood was getting scarce and much time was wasted collecting it. Had improved his dug out with steps to his bed and a square self next to his bed.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/52 · Item · 5 September 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had been given a useful job to do – inspecting old kit to see if it could still be used. Had spoken to a bootmaker to see if any of the boots could be repaired. There were many socks which had been cut because the men were supposed to darn small holes in their own socks.

He had been into Winchester yesterday evening but the choir were on holiday so there would be no music at evensong and he had left to do a few small jobs in the town. He had also been to bathe.

Describes a visit to Du Ponbet, a French Swiss master who was a good scholar but was critical of him. Du Ponbet wasn’t interested in him beyond asking which rank he was to be place in.

Weather was stuffy and they might have a thunderstorm. Was depressed by the Riga news which would buck up the Germans. It was possible the Germans would succeed in forcing Russia into a separate peace. With all their disorganisation Russians were good almost for nothing.

Hopes her baby would arrive soon.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/9 · Item · 6 August 1915
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Friday

He was leaving Pen y Pass that day to travel to meet his father and Trafford, although he still hadn’t heard where they would be. He describes the previous days climbing which included walking over Mynedd Mawr which had a wonderful view of all the Snowdon group, stopping for a cup of tea in Snowdon village before walking over the flank of Snowdon and the top of Lliwedd getting back at 8.30pm. Ursula was a good walker and showed no signs of having been unduly exhausted. Was sorry Cottie had not been able to go with them. The group had a great deal of fun and good talk. Bertie Graham was a solid good natured Scot with a real sense of humour. He liked Owen but thought he was a professional pessimist and it was a pity he was so unfit. He hadn’t been reading the papers carefully but it was a comfort that the German losses must have been very big.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/119 · Item · 6 December 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 6 1916'

It was almost lunch time and he was just up as he had a beastly cold. He had felt feverish when he played Bridge with Platnauer and then he had been out with the sergeant major in the motor lorry to get supplies which was a slow business. He went to bed early and took two vegetable laxative pills and was feeling better.

Bell went off yesterday in very high spirits. He would get a few days at home before his course began. Was surprised to hear that Ralph wasn’t coming out for a time before commanding a battery. Dunbar was staying there for his week as battery commander. Lithgow was in Amiens today.

Asks what ‘political thunderbolt’ means, that Lloyd George wants to get rid of Balfour or Asquith?

Earl was going home as his kidney weakness had been giving him a lot of trouble.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/3 · Item · 6 January 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 6 1916' [it was actually written in 1917]

He had been hoping and hoping for this news [that she was expecting their second child] and they wouldn’t worry whether it was a girl or boy.

He wasn’t sure how to describe his job. Robinson had spent the first two days telling him there wasn’t much for him to do. He felt Robinson was impressed with himself in the role of adjutant and was anxious to do everything himself. His role was to look after the Colonel which meant accompanying him on his rounds and being generally informed. He had taken the Colonel up to see where they observed from. They had also ridden out to see an alternative battery position. He had only ridden a horse once in the last 10 years but it was a tame business. Thought their children should learn to ride.

He would have to get to know the other batteries in the group which would be interesting. He was in charge of the living quarters and would probably have to run the mess although McLeod, the signalling officer, was doing that at present. It was a footling old woman’s job. He hoped he could make a better job for himself. He liked the men there especially the Colonel and McLeod.

Wondered if anything would come of the strained situation between Austria and Germany.

Had to write letters to mother, Avie, Trafford and Geoffrey Keynes.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/44 · Item · c. 6 July 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, [no date]

Full Transcript

Just a note dearest Ruth to let you know I am alright. I hoped to write you a proper letter this morning in time for posting but have been too busy. You’ve no need to be anxious and you shall have a proper letter written today.
I was distracted yesterday by many small troubles in my work here and that’s why I left it to this morning. The dispatch rider is waiting but for other things besides this note.

I wonder what folk in England are thinking about the fighting here. I suppose they must be generally disappointed – if they think of the initial success in Champagne last September so much greater than this. But the point is that we are pressing the Hun on all fronts and if it’s a slow business here the hope is that we shall make him fight to exhaustion. There’s good evidence of his lack of men and that must tell if we attack sufficiently. There’s every sign of such determination in these parts.

I didn’t see a French paper yesterday. There was a charming rumour which I met to cheer me in the course of a dismal expedition in a thunderstorm the day before. I’ll tell you if I hear any more of it – it concerned the French more than ourselves – they have done extremely well in their sector, reaching their objective very quickly with slight losses.

The feeling that we are supporting infantry in the most direct fashion makes a great difference to me now. One requires so intensely that all the shooting should be absolutely right. Life is strung up and there’s nothing slack about it now though there must necessarily be idle times.

My chief interest today is the starting of a canteen for the men - a dry canteen for selling cigarettes, tobacco, chocolate and biscuits – those things primarily. We ought to have arranged it before, but I suppose the feeling that we might at any moment be leaving here prevented us. Anyway the discovery of a large wholesale canteen, within reach has made the idea bear fruit and I have bought about 150 shillings worth of goods as a start. The men are rich as they have no opportunity of spending their pay here, so I expect the concern to prosper and be very welcome to the men – and no doubt my stocks will have to be increased enormously.

We have had wretched weather here the last two days. It was beautiful for the beginning of our attack but broke down badly the day before yesterday with a thunderstorm. It is cold now and I have no feeling of summer. Warm sunshine is so much a comfort in itself that it makes up for everything.

Now Goodbye. All my love dear one, George

MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/19 · Item · 6 July 1921
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [first page missing, reference to a hand drawn map in the surviving letter which may have been on the first page]

Brief Summary
Outlines plans for reconnaissance with Bullock including setting up an advanced camp. Describes Everest. Had taken photos of Everest with Bullock. Howard-Bury and Herron had arrived at Base Camp. Had been cutting steps. Climbed to what they believed was the 2nd highest peak ever climbed (23,500ft). The tent and bedding were uncomfortable and it was cold. Describes what he wears to keep warm.

Detailed Summary
They planned to explore westwards to the W.N.W. cwm and refers to a hand drawn map [missing]. They planned to make advanced camp with Mummery tents where only two peaks had been mapped or observed before. They had to explore eastward for a view of the great east arete of Everest. He describes the general shape of Everest assessing the possibilities of climbing it - in the south was a fierce rock arete, the snow col, the west cwm, the summit ridge, the east face had steep hanging glaciers and from a distant view looked impossible. Describes the East and North aretes and concludes that the approach to the col from the west looked bad and they would have to explore the other side. The N.W. arete looked very formidable with much steep rock about 23,000 ft. Unless the face on the other side provided easy ways to turn the difficulties they didn't have much hope here. The west face had very steep rocks towards the summit.

Everest was immeasurably bigger and higher than any mountain he had seen in the Alps. From a mountaineer’s point of view no more appalling sight could be imagined. He reports on the reconnaissance so far and of establishing the camp. He followed a clean stream and wanted to go further in their search for water and then saw a little lake’. They crossed a glacier the next day [again referencing a map, perhaps on the missing first page]. He had an interesting expedition with Bullock and the porters. It was remarkable that the descent was always very tiring.

The next day he tried to get high up on a ridge and take photos with Bullock, reaching their maximum heights. He had been cutting steps at 21,000 ft. The following day's plans were interrupted when they received news that Howard-Bury and Heron had arrived at Base Camp. They had enjoyed a pleasant slack day and made plans to select a main camp location. He and Bullock took photographs of Everest and some of its neighbours. He describes the challenges of climbing, and cutting steps in the ice. They reached the top registering 23,500 ft. They thought this was he second highest peak which had been climbed. He refers to the climbing records of [Tom] Longstaff and the Duke of Abruzzi. When they were better acclimatised and could start from a higher camp they would be able to go a great deal higher.

[The letter continues later] - All the driving power came from him. The tent was cramped, the bedding was uncomfortable and the evenings were cold. Describes his clothing in detail. He kept warm enough. He was looking forward to the trek back to Darjeeling and drawing nearer to her. He was not depressed as it was an exhilarating life on the whole and he was wonderfully fit. There would be something to be told even if they didn't climb Everest, which he didn't think they would.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/12 · Item · c. 6 May 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Le Havre, France

Asks her to address letters to 2nd Lt G. Leigh-Mallory, No. 1 Base Depot, B. E. F.

There was little to tell. He expected to move on shortly and spend a few days in another big town on the way to the front. It was a lovely part of the world but he hadn’t explored it yet. That morning they had gone to see various infantry works and that afternoon made a very long expedition to Le Havre to get certain articles from a hangar in the middle of the docks.

He was living in a hut with Smith, Green and Satchwell. He acts as the cook’s agent for them in the town [he could speak French]. He calls it a hut but it was really a little canvas shelter. His camp kit was satisfactory. Had a hot and cold shower that morning. They didn’t much like waiting there but he supposed he would receive plenty of shocks before long.

He was feeling sleepy so apologises for the feeble letter. Wonders when he will receive one from her. This place was 4 miles out of Le Havre, was very pretty and was situated on the side of a hill overlooking the junction of two wooded valleys. He was amazed by the care that had been taken to make the place agreeable.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/106 · Item · 6 November 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 6 1916'

Had received nine letters from her. Glad to hear of his friends coming into her life. Very pleasant to hear of her making a friend of Robert who had stayed at Westbrook. The Headmaster didn’t encourage Robert’s friendship with Johnstone and was not disposed to let him go out very much on the grounds that he was somewhat spoilt and didn’t get on well in the house. Advised her to write to the head of Saunderites House using a dictionary [Ruth was dyslexic] to request a visit. She could also tell Johnstone that he would be very glad to receive a letter from him.

He had heard from Rooper that Clements had left Charterhouse and he was sorry as he was the one really interesting boy he knew.
Her visit to the Reade’s seems to have been a success. Kar Cox was a charming person but he didn’t know her as well as some of his friends notably David and Geoffrey Keynes. Didn’t know Ward but he was a friend of Rupert Brooke. Was sure Bridget was one of the best of people.

Comments on Arthur Clutton-Brock’s speech which Ruth had recounted to him.

Only bitter feelings he had towards Mr Rendall was that he wanted to avoid a bore. He felt in his bones the ill bred pomposity of Langton probably because he had offended his vanity by having too little regard for his opinions.

Was glad she was getting to know Mrs Brock. News about Kit was really bad and must have upset them very much.

He hadn’t written to her much lately as he was in a sociable mood and spent time talking after meals. He had played bridge. He went to bed at 9.30pm as it was difficult to be comfortable outside bed. He read whilst his feet got warm. He never had night work which was a blessing but was liable to be woken at 6.30am.

Two parcels of clothes had arrived. She had chosen well and he felt luxurious. The men didn’t go short of warm clothes but they didn’t have oil stoves in their dugouts nor a dry mess room. He drew the line at a hot water bottle as it would make him feel like a pig. He would be quite cosy once he got a curtain.

Lithgow had applied for special leave to attend to business and would probably get it.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/89 · Item · 6 October 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 6 1916'

Nothing further had happened as bad weather was preventing movement. Very wet and muddy getting to an from the observation post. Had been with Lithgow in the morning working on the observations of the previous day and then working the guns for Bell who was observing. It was a long business as their line was constantly out of order. The Captain’s Office was a deep hole which also served as a bed chamber and was connected byt a covered passage to where two signallers worked the telphone, slept, and ate.

Was being sent on a commission to [censor has cut out the name] where he would see friends at the regrettable garden and talk to the lady of the omlettes, buy some flour for the men and plenty of papers.

Wishes for letters from her as they helped to make her qualities become a person.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1918/3 · Item · 6 October 1918
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Asks Ruth to send some curtains for the Officers' mess and gives dimensions and opinion about colour and material. Describes the Officers' mess which was in a converted truck and includes two drawings showing the plan and the elevation.

The sleeping quarters were less glorious and comfortable.

Sends the proofs of his photographs which she can choose from although he didn't think they were very good.

He regretted the lack of solitude He could stay up later if it was warmer or if he didn't have a cold.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1916/75 · Item · 6 September 1916
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 6 1916'

Unpleasant afternoon spend at an inquiry into which battery had been firing into their own trenches. Describes why it was all so hateful.

Had enjoyed working on the ante-room. Had gone into Albert to get a stove to warm them but had been unsuccessful. Had enjoyed a chat with the old woman in the ironmongery and come away with another oil lamp.

Had received the good news of the capture of the Combles by the French.

Comments on her letter and the childish activities that can be enjoyed by the seaside. Asks if the seaside made any difference to Clare.

Was lying on his bed in pyjamas. All their dug-outs had been christened for the convenience of the guards. His was called ‘Fathom Five’. Was off to sleep as breakfast was at 7.30am and he had very poor sleep in a chair the night before.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1917/53 · Item · 6 September 1917
Part of Personal Papers

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Makes arrangements for visiting her at the weekend. Weather the day before had been very sultry and he had slept in the afternoon, then gone for a walk, lain on a grassy bank and eaten blackberries before the thunderstorm came.

Had been doing a lot of reading including an important chapter in the League of Nations on ‘The Economies of Peace’. Recommends she read the book describing it as ‘the best war book’. Had also been reading Rupert Brooke’s American letters which had a very interesting introduction about him by Henry James.

Was sorry he wouldn’t see Ursula again but describes the ways she irritated him although she was ‘a good woman’.

Thought he would take up Fearon’s invitation to afternoon tea describing being prepared for confirmation by him and what his wife was like. They used to call him the 'Bear'. Hoped to have a pleasant detour on his bicycle on the way back and have a bathe in the river.