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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Newcastle

Was sorry she wouldn't have seen anything of Avie and was glad she had been to St John's Vicarage [his parent's home].

Was delighted by events in the Balkans and in Palestine. The defeat of Bulgaria was more important as it would involve the railway to Constantinople. The American advance of 11 kilometres sounded like a good start. Someone had told him the war would be over within 3 weeks but even in a dream he couldn't swallow that optimism.

Describes a series of games he organised for the men on the beach which including nude swimming race, a three legged race and steeplechase.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 28 1917'

They had slept two nights in this wonderful and pitiful old town and had quite good billets. They occupied the two upper floors of a large and well built house which he describes. They had had a comfortable start to the war of movement. The first day was miserable as it rained a lot but he had spent yesterday position hunting with Glen and Hutchinson. They had found quite a good place and hopes they shall go there. Describes a very pleasant walk he went on and a garden he saw.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from '1st Base Camp under Everest’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He had been busy finishing despatches to Howard-Bury. Describes the journey across the plain with 18 porters, being purposely mislead, and a miscommunication. The second day’s journey was uneventful, and he had climbed with Bullock.

Describes the following morning’s first view of Everest. They were not completely cut off from civilisation as there was a monastery nearby. Supplies were bought up for the monks and they could arrange to get fuel there.

He gives a detailed description of the previous day’s first mountaineering expedition, with Bullock and five porters, mentioning crossing glaciers, pinnacles over 50 ft high, and having to cut steps which was good training but tiring. They discovered a camping ground and had two good wettings in ideal bathing places. He was feeling more tired than he had ever felt in the Alps but was pleased with himself from a physical point of view.

He explains plans for the next day’s advanced camp. 'I can’t tell you how it possesses me and what a prospect it is. And the beauty of it all!’.

He had received another letter from her and was sorry about her troubles. Wishes she was lying where Guy Bullock was so he could kiss her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was working in shifts of 24 hours. Apologises that he hadn’t had chance to write. Had been on the guns from daylight to diner. They were all happy and full of hope. The men rise to the occasion and will enjoy it even if they have a bad time. Was feeling rather deaf last night. Lithgow looses all sense of cool control the moment a hitch occurs. Thinks people in England must be excited. Didn’t think the Germans would take Verdun. Had heard that five German divisions had been taken from the British front.

Was glad she had enjoyed her time with Mary. Ask what she thinks of Ralph. Acknowledges letters, soup tablets and cakes and thinks the prunes were a good idea and he would save them for private consumption. Describes the mess and people he eats with. Asks her to send one cake a week. Had read most of Clutton-Brock’s book The Ultimate Belief which he comments on and he recommends she get a copy too.

He was in the map room standing by to be given a job. He was always standing by. Hoped to get some sleep before going on night duty again.

Wonders what the future held for them and whether he would be home for good before Xmas as he longed to be with her and build up a life together again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 28 1917'

The Mess were very appreciative of the sausages so please could she send the same sort again. They were mainly living on rations of bully beef and biscuits.

It was desperately cold. There had been snow lying on the ground for the last 10 days and a NE wind for the last 4 days.

A nice Irishman of the 109th had been wounded in the stomach as he had left the observation post and he was sorry as he was a nice man.

A chance had come along to apply for the staff there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Thanks her for her letters and the account of Xmas Day. Wishes he could have seen the children open their presents and he loved a Christmas tree.

Couldn’t bring himself to write too much as he was expecting to be released soon and he might get home before the letter. Wouldn’t write all he thought about Studies in Christianity for the same reason although he was highly delighted with it.

Thanks her for sending Stephen Tallents letter. Had to just be patient and wait. He had been writing. What did she think of his definition of the highest aims of education - “to stimulate consciousness of unconcious values”?

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from the train between Birkenhead and Chester

He had received her undated letter which he assumes was written on Christmas Day. Assumes many of those there with her for Christmas would be staying on for Mildred’s marriage [Ruth’s sister]. He did not care about the symbols of marriage, burial, repentance or forgiveness. A good ceremony could be quite amusing but a bad one would do worse than merely loosing him.

He had quite a happy visit to Birkenhead and Avie and Harry had arrived after two burst tyres in the wind and rain in tremendous spirits. On Monday night he planned to stay at Mobberly and then on Tuesday he would be home with her. Suggests she go down whilst he was at Weymouth and stay nearby with his mother or a female friend for company and then he could see her at weekends.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 28 1917'

He had been busy building a bathroom with a floor and thin walls but no roof.

He had found more grape hyacinths, a patch or rhubarb and some leeks.

He had been reading Well’s book which was very amusing and interesting in parts. Agrees that the offensive is the winning side at present provided it had command of the air and no effective means had been invented for stopping submarines. Agrees with Well’s opinion of the army. The waste of men was amazing and using less horses would be an economy. Doesn’t agree about German airmen who were a nimble lot. Can’t dispense with horses for field batteries without very seriously impairing their mobility.

Gives his opinion on how the war might end – cutting the railway to Constantinople, Russian and the Romanians retaking Romania. Germany may collapse in the summer but he didn’t believe she would and then everything depended on the Balkans.

Looked as though compulsory rationing would be the order in England so she should stop sending cakes. She seemed to fear going seriously short of food but he hopes she will have plenty of vegetables in the garden.

His ankle was behaving badly again and he was going to try and wear shoes for a time.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kalimpong’.

Brief Summary
Split into 2 groups. Plan to beat height record without using oxygen. Training by Finch on use of oxygen. 40 men selected which wasn't enough. Travelled by train up the Teesta Valley. Finch and Crawford left behind to wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Description of flowers.

Detailed Summary
They had split into two parties with himself in the first group and travelled to Phari following the previous year’s march. General Bruce had wanted to travel all together with 300 animals. Describes Bruce and the management of the advance party moving stores, fixing camps, and he expected to share his opinion about the condition of the snow when the time came. During the expedition they planned that a party of three would try to beat the height record without using oxygen. They had been provisionally selected - Morshead, Norton, and young Bruce.

Finch was insisting on oxygen training and had declared that a man should have a fortnight’s training with the apparatus and that unless he had it he wouldn’t be responsible for anyone’s safety when using it. Thinks two days would be ample training. If this rule held good the three he named were excluded from the possibility of getting to the top with oxygen, because there wouldn’t be a fortnight to spare for training them. He didn’t expect the plan would work out exactly according to intention as he thought General Bruce wouldn’t be rigid on the matter.

There were only 40 porters in the party which was quite inadequate. They were good men selected from 150 Nepalese and among them were 14 who had climbed with him the previous year. He reckoned they would have to make about four journeys to the North Col and two journeys up from there to 25,000 ft which he thought was asking too much. Bruce had been short on time and couldn’t gather more men worth taking or equip them. He planned to save them as much as possible on the journey and possibly gather a few Tibetans.

He was enjoying the venture hugely as it wa the jolliest of parties and everything was well arranged. General Bruce, Wakefield, Strutt, Noel and himself were going down to Siliguri while, ‘young Bruce’ had gone ahead to look after the luggage. He had returned after dinning in the station to find their beds already set up and arranged with mosquito nets which he thought was the proper way to travel, although the net wasn’t very effective and he was bitten and had to use iodine and prophylactic quinine. He hoped to escape fever.

They had travelled up the Teesta Valley to railhead with General Bruce putting his head out of the window most of the time, brimming over with joy and waving his handkerchief at passers-by, and Noel had used his cinema apparatus [film camera]. He describes the heat, and of arranging stores before going up to Teesta Bridge. From there the General walked up about 4,000 ft.

They came round by train to save 300 rupees but the rest preferred to start early that morning motoring out from Darjeeling about 8 miles and then walking. His companions from there would be Bruce, Norton, Longstaff, and Noel. Finch remained behind at Darjeeling with Crawford to bring the oxygen. They would probably be about 10 days behind them which he felt was rather hard luck for them. That night he was sharing a room with Longstaff and he thought they would get on together very nicely.

He would describe his time in Darjeeling, but it would be largely of idleness. He had been walking with Wakefield, Norton, and Somervell but the mountains were not at their best. Describes specific flowers and their glorious colours, but thinks they were not as loveable as English blossoms. Everything seemed to be in waiting for the first rain showers. He did not expect to see as many flowers in Sikkim until they came to the rhododendron zone.

He had ordered Curtis to give her a book which should be useful in identifying wild flowers and thought perhaps she could collect some flowers with Clare.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘A mountain camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar]. In the rains'.

Brief Summary
Travels towards home.

Detailed Summary
Complains of no mail and that he had received no news from her for the two last months of summer. Wants her with him and feels it is a waste not to enjoy that country together. The march down to Kharta [region] from the Doya La [high mountain pass] was even more entrancing than the previous year. First valley flower he found was blooming in the same place where he had collected seed pods last year. Saw a magnificent purple primula. Describes flowers and plants he saw including dwarf rhododendrons in full bloom, a willow shrub, primula sikhinensis [sikkimensis], a small iris, a white briar and a rose.

Stayed one day in Teng camping in a very good sheltered spot. The following day was spend chiefly in picnicking in a wonderful place surrounded by pines and overlooking the Arun gorge.

Then into the Kama Valley where the rains started again, but the camp was in a lovely spot on a little knoll overlooking the main valley and on the edge of a little mountain torrent. Describes the fine forests (mostly juniper) and beds of irises. They were waiting on the weather before continuing and he was happy walking about the hillsides or sitting round the camp fire.

They had moved on that day and gone over the Chog La [high mountain pass] which was just over 16,000 ft and just managed to be a snow pass and were camping nearly 2,000 ft below it on the north side and then departed from the Kharta Valley by another ridge and the Sanchang La [high mountain pass]. It was the ideal mountain country and they would have to wait there for 3 days on account of transport difficulties. Hoped the sun would shine for one of the days.

His plan to go through the corner of Nepal had not come off as it was impossible to arrange transport. Instead he would leave from Teng with Somervell and Crawford on 3 July and follow the route he and Bullock took last year as far as Gyanka Nampa. Then they would go south to Sar and keeping south of the Yaru river to the Nago La. Somervell and Crawford planned to stay in Lhonak and he would continue alone. Hoped to arrive in Darjeeling about 20-23 July and would wire from there which boat he would catch.

[Continues on the morning of June 28th] - was writing from bed watching the blue smoke of the cookhouse fire. Life was aimless and he couldn't really enjoy things at present in spite of the lovely flowers and scenery. They were not quite the jolly company they were and an ungraceful air had come over them even though they were well rid of Finch. But they were not bored with each other.

Felt he would take much interest in their garden when he got back.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had just been writing to Rendall who was a goose. He enclosed Rendall’s letter which had made him angry. Why had he engaged Jelli to play without fixing terms first? Thought Rendall ought to offer her 10 guineas without bringing him into it. Wishes she could come with him to hear the performance. It looked a lovely programme.

Thanks her for crediting him with a gift of a woolly coat for the baby. He was ashamed to say the gift he referred to, which now seemed commonplace and even vulgar by comparison, was a box of chocolates for his wife.

Hoped to be with her as early as possible on Saturday.

Duncan had written making three impossible suggestions but he did want to see him and it may be his only chance. It wasn’t highly convenient and she might say no.

He was going to Winton tonight to dine with the Irving’s.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had got things straight in his dugout with his table cloth on and the potpourri open when he was at home. The lavender bag was amongst his clothes and he could sit on the cartridge case at the table or in the arm chair next to it. Hoped Dunbar or Lithgow would be buying him a stove in Amiens that day. Had been writing to Mrs Wilson in answer to her letter and thought he might spend a night of his leave in Winchester. Had been on a voyage of discovery to a neighbouring battery to find a young master at Winchester called Platnauer who he thought would have mutual friends.

Had no duties all day as it was wet. Thought there would be more such days during the winter.

Had received a waistcoat from his mother which was a great success and he felt impervious to cold. Had received a new pair of breeches and a new coat from his tailor.

28 Oct - Had received her letter and was sorry Clare was not feeling like herself. Was shocked and grieved to hear about Persis.

The war was too disgusting to think about and the Germans were too good at the game. They ought to give up talking about a fight to the finish as the V.D.C. [Volunteer Defence Corps] folk had said all along. The French capture of Donaumont was a good knock.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been frustrated in his attempts to get to Paris. No side car had arrived from Trafford’s Squadron to pick him up. Was hoping to get to Amiens in a car belonging to a neighbouring battery. Otherwide he would have to get a train to Rouen or Abbeville.

Wishes he had received a letter from her before he left to reassure him about her recovery [from pneumonia].

Would enjoy the victory celebrations in Paris if he could get there as the French were friendly now.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 27 1916'

Disappointment that his leave might not come through for two months.

The news from Romania made him feel that he could run like an ostrich and bury his head in the sand.

Lithgow was now Acting Major and Bell was acting Captain. He planned to go to Amiens to get food for the men’s Xmas. The plan for the day was 9am breakfast (an hour later than usual), porridge and sausage and mash; dinner - roast pork, plum pudding, dessert; tea - fresh butter and new bread, jam, biscuits and celery; supper - soup, bread and cheese. He had fixed it up with the Games Committee and the most surprising thing was the enthusiasm for celery for tea. He was planning a football match with Platnauer’s battery.

Asks if she was sending him an Xmas parcel. If so it had to be sent by 5 December. Thought mince pies wouldn’t last but if she sent mincemeat the cook could manage the pastry.

They had great music last night before, during, and after dinner. One of Lithgow’s Scots playing the melodeon, Bell on the flute, and one of the signallers and himself sang.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Camp I, Everest

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

This is going to be the scrappiest letter - a time limit for the mail has suddenly been put on and this morning when I might have been writing to you I was busy doing a communique at Norton’s request, I find it an impossible task to write that sort of thing up here. Anyway such as it is you will have read it, so that is some satisfaction.

Dear Girl, this has been a bad time altogether. I look back on tremendous efforts & exhaustion & dismal looking out of a tent door and onto a world of snow & vanishing hopes - & yet, & yet, & yet there have been a good many things to set on the other side. The party has played up wonderfully. The first visit to the North Col was a triumph for the old gang. Norton & I did the job & the cutting of course was all my part - so far as one can enjoy climbing above Camp II I enjoyed the conquest of the ice wall & crack the crux of the route, & making the steps too in the steep final 200 ft.

Odell did very useful work leading the way on from the camp to the Col; I was practically bust to the world & couldn’t have lead that half hour though I still had enough mind to direct him. We made a very bad business of the descent. It suddenly occurred to me that we ought to see what the old way down was like. Norton & I were ahead, unroped, & Odell behind in charge of a porter who had carried up a light load. We got onto ground where a practiced man can just get a long without crampons (which we hadn’t with us), chipping occasional steps in very hard snow or ice. I was all right ahead but Norton had a nasty slip & then the porter, whose knot didn’t hold so that he went down some way & was badly shaken. Meanwhile I, below, finding the best way down had walked into an obvious crevasse; by some miscalculation I had thought I had prodded the snow with which it was choked & where I hoped we could walk instead of cutting steps at the side of it - all the result of mere exhaustion no doubt - but the snow gave way & in I went with the snow tumbling all around me, down luckily only about 10 feet before I fetched up half-blind & breathless to find myself most precariously supported only by my ice axe somehow caught across the crevasse & still held in my right hand - & below was a very unpleasant black hole. I had some nasty moments before I got comfortably wedged & began to yell for help up through the round hole I had come through where the blue sky showed – this because I was afraid any operations to extricate myself would bring down a lot more snow & perhaps precipitate me into the bargain. However I soon grew tired of shouting – they hadn’t seen me from above - & bringing the snow down a little at a time I made a hole out towards the side (the crevasse ran down a slope) after some climbing, & so extricated myself - but was then on the wrong side of the crevasse, so that eventually I had to cut across a nasty slope of very hard ice & further down some mixed unpleasant snow before I was out of the wood. The others were down by a better line 10 minutes before me - that cutting against time at the end after such a day just about brought me to my limit.

So much for that day.

My one personal trouble has been a cough. It started a day or two before leaving the B.C. [Base Camp] but I thought nothing of it. In the high camp it has been the devil. Even after the day’s exercise I have described I couldn’t sleep but was distressed with bursts of coughing fit to tear one’s guts - & so headache & misery altogether; besides which of course it has a very bad effect on one’s going on the mountain. Somervell also has a cough which started a little later than mine & he has not been at his physical best.

The following day when the first loads were got to Camp IV in a snowstorm Somervell & Irvine must have made a very fine effort hauling load up the chimney. Hazard had bad luck to be left alone in charge of the porters at [Camp] IV only for one night according to our intentions, but the snow next day prevented Geoff [Bruce] & Odell from starting - & the following day he (i.e. H) elected to bring the party down quite rightly considering the weather; but can you imagine, he pointedly ordered one man, who had been appointed camp cook for the men, to stay up on the chance of his being useful to the party coming up - it is difficult to make out how exactly it happened, but evidently he didn’t shepherd his party property at all & in the end 4 stayed up one of these badly frostbitten. Had the snow been a bit worse that day we went up to bring them down things might have been very bad indeed. Poor old Norton was very hard hit altogether - hating the thought of such a bad muddle, & himself really not fit to start out next day - nor were any of us for that matter & it looked 10 to 1 against our getting up with all that snow about let alone get a party down. I led from the camp to a point some little distance above the flat glacier - the snow wasn’t so very bad as there had been no time for it to get sticky, still that part with some small delays took us 3 hours; then S. [Somervell] took us up to where Geoff [Bruce] & Odell had dumped their loads the day before & shortly afterwards Norton took on the lead; luckily we found the snow better as we proceeded, N [Norton] alone had crampons & was able to take us up to the big crevasse without step cutting.

Here we had half an hour’s halt and at 1.30 I went on again for the steep 200 ft or so to the point where the big crevasse joins the corridor. From here there were two doubtful stretches. N [Norton] led up the first while the two of us made good at the corner of the crevasse - he found the snow quite good. And S. [Somervell] led across the final slope (following Hazard’s just discernible tracks in the wrong place, but of some use now because the snow had bound better there). N. [Norton] & I had an anxious time belaying, & it began to be cold too as the sun had left us. S. [Somervell] made a very good show getting the men off - but I won’t repeat my report. Time was pretty short as it was 4.30 when they began to come back using S’s [Somervell’s] rope as a handrail. Naturally the chimney took some time. It was just dusk when we got back to camp.

N [Norton] has been quite right to bring us down for rest. It is no good sending men up the mountain unfit. The physique of the whole party has gone down sadly. The only chance now is to get fit & go for a simpler quicker plan. The only plum fit man is Geoffrey Bruce. N. [Norton] has made me responsible for choosing the parties of attack himself first choosing me into the first party if I like. But I’m quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough. Irvine will probably be one & 2 of N [Norton], S [Somervell], or self with Geoff the other 2 to make up 4 for the two parties of two each. But again I wonder whether the monsoon will give us a chance. I don’t want to get caught but our three day scheme from the Chang La will give the monsoon a good chance. We shall be going up again the day after tomorrow - Six days to the top from this camp!

Mails have come tumbling in these last days – three in rapid succession - yours dated from Westbrook with much about the car. I fear it has given you a lot of trouble; Clare’s poem with which I’m greatly delighted; a good letter from David [Pye] from P.Y.P. [Pen-y-Pass, Wales] - will you please thank him at once as I shall hardly manage to do so by this mail. Mother writes in great spirits from Aix. It’s a great joy to hear from you especially but also from anyone who will write a good letter.

The candle is burning out & I must stop.

Darling I wish you the best I can - that your anxiety will be at an end before you get this - with the best news. Which will also be the quickest. It is 50 to 1 against us but we’ll have a whack yet & do ourselves proud.

Great love to you. Ever your loving, George.

[written on margin of first page]
P.S. The parts where I boast of my part are put in to please you and not meant for other eyes. G.M.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Thursday July 27'

Advises her to read Mr Brock’s letter to answer her questions about the good, beautiful and true. Would love to discuss it with her. Gives brief summary of his views.

Thanks her for Sidney Cockerell’s message and was sorry to have missed his visit to Westbrook. Explains how Cockerell was received in Cambridge.

Nothing had transpired about the aeroplane work so far. Had taken his turn in the forward party. Seen firing on the German front line and a bombing attack. Had found a very safe way to get there and back but it was rather gruesome. His nerves were unaffected but his nose wasn’t. Exclaims at the pity of it when seeing the dead lying out and feels anger when corpses are inexcusably not buried.

Had received good news but wasn’t sure how good as it would depend on fighting elsewhere. Didn’t think war would be over by Xmas. Disappointed by slow progress of the Russians. The Germans were making a wonderful fight.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 27 1917'

Would be at Headquarters until Halifax returned on 6th. He supposed he would return to the battery then. It had got colder and colder and motor vehicles could hardly be got moving at all. They had been woken twice by big shells falling nearby ad the hasty entrance of the telephonist into their dugout.

Was sorry she sounded depressed in her last letter. Was evident she wasn’t feeling at all well.

He’d had a busy day. He was to have gone out with Glen to reconnoitre O.P.s [observation posts] but the cave came to grief before they set out. They talked over maps and Robinson gave him some jobs to do. The fire was very difficult to keep going as the wood was so wet.

Was getting on better with Robinson. He was sending of his sleeping bag which wants cleaning. Also the de la Mare books and Mr Britling. Was slightly disappointed with Peacock Pie.

Her letter gave him a most lovely pleasure. Was frightened a little in case he should let her down. He fell short of his own ideals but didn’t take himself over seriously.

Had read more of the Shepherd’s Life which was good.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 27 1915' [was actually 1916]

Had a desperate hunt for the notes for the Book of Geoffrey. Thought his valet, Symons, had tidied them away but then he had found them. He should really have been attending a service and singing hymns.

Was feeling fully recovered. Had gone in the sidecar of a motorbike driven by an Irishman going very fast along some of the worst roads in the country. Had bought some things for the men in Corbie – some pretty cups and a big china teapot.
Describes the weather, countryside, and his opinion of tents including the charm of them being the way one looks upon the world through the slit.

Describes some of the A.S.C. [ammunition column] men he had met and the rather empty headed youths who said ‘Cheery Ho’ and ‘Here’s fun’ and carried handkerchiefs in the sleeves.

Had received a long, interesting and affectionate letter from Trafford who was having a good time building a tennis court. Comments on her letter and what she had said about Mrs Huxley and her attitude towards her children.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 27 1917'

Had just had an Old Carthusian turn up – a boy called Manly who was now in the Royal Flying Corps. He rather liked such meetings.

He had walked through a wood on the point of bursting into green with the honeysuckle already in leaf. Was most delighted with were the white wood anemones and yellow polyanthus. The loveliness of flowers particularly spring flowers after this year spent at war was more wonderful to him and more entertaining than ever.

Had a good day at the observation post. He made an interesting reconnaissance to a village in no man’s land and manged to get in without being seen by the enemy. Saw some wire that was in question and other things and picked a bunch of daffodils. On his way back he showed them to some infantry men and one said they were lovely and reminded him of home.

Orders had come in about firing so he must end the letter. He would think about whether it was right to keep sending parcels of food.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 26 1916' and 'Nov 27'

Discusses the possibility of leave and the disappointment of delays.

The partition wall between the Captain’s dugout, or map room as it had come to be called, and the telephonists’ place fell in as it was waterlogged. He had to carry out his Battery Command work from the mess room which was also where the Captain and two signallers would have to sleep. Deluge again which his dugout had survived with only a mild stream down one wall making a puddle under his bed and minor damage to the staircase walls. The big new work didn’t get covered in time and was in a mess.

Was going to plan the feast and festivities for the men’s Xmas.

Discusses the news from Romania.

[Letter continues 27 Nov] - The discomforts there would be nothing like those he experienced in Weymouth the winter before. The sordid room he had shared with Hooper and general messiness of No. 14 made him shudder to think of it. Her being at Abbotsbury redeemed it all.

He was glad she found time for reading and liked Boswell. It was time for her to read his book and then the Tour in the Hebrides. Ann Veronica [by H.G. Wells] made a sensation when it came out and he shocked people when he read it in Cambridge. Thinks she might enjoy Tono Bungay more.

He had heard from Polly - a long rigmarole of trivialities and she must have bored the Brocks. Says he has the keenest scent for detecting a bore and will go to any lengths to avoid them.

Her instructions for finding Bob Morgan would be thrown away as if the occasion arose he would be sent the other way.

Explains the problem with his ankle and that it was getting better.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had rather a distressing evening as the worst of the piano friends had drummed out his nauseating tunes for about two hours. Another of them was at it now but wouldn’t go on for as long.

It was wet and he had spent most of the time in his cubicle reading a novel, Sonia by Stephen McKenna. He was a Wykehamist and the book begins about life at Winchester but it was heavily disguised and might be any big school. It was quite interesting.

He had got some notes so he could prepare for his course next week but they didn’t seem to deal with very obscure questions or be particularly difficult to understand or be particularly illuminating.

He would have to go out for some fresh air. How long since they had a good walk together?

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Winchester

The mess was now no more than a billiard room. He had just been beaten in a game in a tournament. He was annoyed as he wanted to play a particular opponent in the next round and he could have beaten this man 9 times out of 10 but you can’t win against bad leaves and a series of flukes.

He had enjoyed the previous evening. He had found Rendall in and gone for a long walk with him and discussed schemes for a war memorial. He agreed that if they could get the money it should be done in the grand style. Had enjoyed dining with the Courtneys who were kind people.

He was to go on a senior officers course next Monday which would last a month and probably be boring but would give him something definite to do.

Today he was wearing his spurs but had displeased one whom he called ‘our drinking captain’ by adopting an attitude not precisely correct when standing to attention on parade.

He had enjoyed a walk in the woods, eaten blackberries and nuts, and sat on a threshing machine and worked on his poem.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 26 1916'

Liked the high position so had arranged with Dunbar that he would stay there all day and go back to the battery for dinner.
Had been a great day with Thiepval taken all the high ground south of Grandcourt. A lot of prisoners had been taken passed them and many casualties too. Describes how he thinks the battle will continue and the advantages in their favour. Thought the Germans gave themselves up more easily than before and Bell reported the prisoners he saw were quite happy. Hoped the Russians could get on again. Got the impression they were now doing what they were meant to do.

Describes the dugout where he is writing from, the two signallers at the telephone (one asleep and one keeping watch with a magazine) and the dull noise of the guns. Was using the Morning Post as a tablecloth because the table was so dirty.

Had received letters from her. Says what he doesn’t like about the National Mission. Asks her to think carefully over her attitude towards the type of parish work she describes.

Pleased to hear that Clare is crawling and asks news about her father’s fall.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 26 1916'

They were firing at a slow rate and he was looking after the gun. The programme was written out so he had almost nothing to do and could retire to his dugout at intervals. Liked to do what the other men did and help when the gun needed pulling out of the mud.

Had a Canadian parson and an Irish parson to dinner and had an amazing argument about bequests which was rather refreshing.
Wood, Dunbar and Casey had established a mess at the right half which was a relief as the Captain dislikes them. He, Lithgow and Bell got along quite happily. Had seen Earl and Williams the previous evening at their mess which he could see from his dugout. Saw little of them as their battery had no system of relief and they never knew when they would definitely be off duty. Austin had an old complaint of the kidneys made worse by damp and it would be difficult for him to keep well in these conditions.

Discusses Kipling’s report of the Battle of Jutland and asks Ruth to see if there are accounts about the actions of different ships during the battle.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been reading The Dynasts [by Thomas Hardy].

They had successfully completed their move and were in a pleasant part of the world and he would rather be there than in the Railway Triangle near Arras where they were rather hemmed in.

He was going to Trafford’s anniversary dinner tomorrow [anniversary of Trafford taking command of 8th Squadron] if he could be fetched in a side car because they had no transport. Possible he would sleep there and go on to Amiens and then to Paris. Wasn’t really looking forward to it but thought he ought to make the best of the opportunity.

Wed morning - beautiful fresh morning and he had enjoyed his cold bath. Had to go into Arras to attend a Court of Inquiry. Was increasingly anxious as he hadn’t had received no news of his release.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Base Camp

Brief Summary
First summit attempt without oxygen and waiting to hear about Finch and Young Bruce’s summit attempt with oxygen.

Detailed Summary
Had received mail from her and read news of Pen y Pass. Four of his fingers on the right hand had been touched by frost bite but only the top joint of the third finger gave him any trouble and he didn’t think there was any danger of losing any part of it. Poor Morshead was a very different case and they didn’t yet know what the damage would be. Thought it was stupid or careless of them to be caught out as it was easy enough to keep hands warm with gloves if you weren’t doing too much with them. He took the lead over from Morshead and cut the steps as quickly as possible for fear the porters would be done in by the cold and refuse to continue. Morshead was insufficiently clothed and didn’t know his fingers were caught until the following night. He had wrecked himself cutting the steps and when they were pitching tents hardly had the strength to lift a stone. The night at 25,000 ft was miserable and he didn’t expect to go on.

Somervell was the reserve man all through and was particularly useful in cooking at the high camp. Norton went first on the final day and was very nearly done at the end and was climbing very slowly. They could have gone further but turned back to allow time for the descent. On a fine morning they would have started 2 hrs earlier and reached the N. E. shoulder.

He lead on the descent except where they had to cut steps. He and Norton shared the cutting as he judged he would be quicker than the others. He felt pretty strong on the descent. The slip was nearly a bad business. He hadn’t realised how shaky Morshead was and had cut rather poor steps. Norton and Somervell must have been caught napping. He didn’t have the rope belayed round his waist as he was on the point of cutting a step. Hearing something wrong behind drove in his pick and belayed and was ready in plenty of time when the strain came. Morshead must have made a very fine effort coming down the steps of the snow slope as he appeared to tread quite safely; but the moment they were on easier ground he collapsed. He didn’t like the idea of being out after dark above 23,000 ft. It was a very trying and anxious time.

Next morning there was a lot of hard work cutting steps down from Chang La [North Col] and they weren’t down to Camp 3 until after noon. They walked down to Base the next day and were a very tired party, and all except Somervell, had remained tired. The rest of the party were very pleased with their performance. Thought that the three of them were out of it now. Norton’s ear and his finger were frostbitten and Longstaff wouldn’t hear of them going up again until they were healed. It was annoying as he wanted to make one more try from a camp at 26,000 ft.

They were a perfectly happy party at Camp 3. Apart from the anxiety he had enjoyed it tremendously.

Thinks he won’t have answered all her questions. Says he is still feeling stupid and it was a great effort making a narrative for the press. Wonders what people at home think of them.

[Continues later] - Had just received 3 letters from her and also letters from all his family. Comments on her time in North Wales and hopes she is better for her holiday. Of Pen y Pass he says he knows nowhere that one comes away from feeling so strong. Had a very nice letter from David [Pye] about Pen y Pass. It was almost certain that they would be leaving Everest on her birthday and should be in Darjeeling about 7 July at latest, and hoped to be home by early August. Thought he might take a week to travel through India and then take another week coming round by sea to London. He hoped for one spell of walking with her before October, mentioning the good places they still had to visit together, Teesdale in late spring, a Yorkshire dale, golden in September, and Derbyshire, or the west country again.

[Continues later] - He had been dictating to Morris [General Bruce’s secretary] while he typed up a narrative of their climb. He had worked out she ought to get news of their climb very near the date of her birthday and this letter should reach her on 4 July, and on the same day he should arrive in Darjeeling.

Details future travel plans as he wants to see something more of the world. He may see the Bullocks on his way home as he had heard from him the other day full of questions about the expedition. They had both been ill and asks Ruth to write to Mrs Bullock as she would be glad to hear from her. He had written a note to his mother and had received one from his sister Avie and hoped she was really better.

He had been thinking of a plan for them to meet in the Alps on his way home but felt she wouldn’t come because of the expense, but if she did it would be easy for him to meet her there. He didn’t know whether Geoffrey Young had secured the Tyndall chalet but if so they could go there which would make a great difference. Tells her how to get there and what costs would be involved.

[Continues later] - they were waiting for news of Finch and G. Bruce’s attempt to summit using oxygen. Thinks they would certainly break their record as they have had very good weather but he didn’t expect them to have reached the top at the first attempt. It all depended on whether they succeed in dumping cylinders ahead of them. He didn’t feel jealous of any success they may have. Getting up with oxygen was so different from their attempt that the two hardly enter into competition. He chaffed because his finger kept him in camp and Longstaff had no idea how bad it was. It was extremely sensitive to cold and if he went up again he would get a real bad frostbite so he had to be patient.

Norton was responsible for collecting flowers with Longstaff’s help. As Longstaff had to go back in a hurry Norton had asked him [Mallory] for help and what they found the previous year. He could easily do this without much loss of time but would be a week later reaching Darjeeling. The idea of seeing seeing the early flowers between there and Kharta and near Kharta too attracted him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

It had rained during his night shift and he was lucky to only have fallen once in the mud. Would have to brief new N.C.O.s for the week ahead. Cake she sent was excellent. Stationary balloons had appeared some miles away and there was shooting in progress. Had spoken with Lithgow. Pay Sergeant was coming down. His part in the project was chiefly the demolition of a wall to recover the bricks for use in building. Wasn’t sure Ralph ought to tell her where he was but as he thought she would find out he says he is near a famous place P in Belgium but asks her to keep it secret.

Saturday – Colonel was pleased with the works and he thinks they will finish in three more weeks. Answers her questions as to why the town wasn’t systematically shelled. It was noisy but he wasn’t nervy yet as they hadn’t had much shelling. He liked the photos of her but was critical of the ones of him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Chevremont, Darjeeling [Letterhead]’

Brief Summary
Somervell and Crawford were to stay in the Lhonak Valley for 2 weeks. Describes his onward journey without them. Morshead was mainly recovered and his fingers and toes were recovering.

Detailed Sumary
Is concerned about the mail and missing letters from her. What was more serious was letters sent off by him from Kampa Dzong - evidently hadn't got through. Correspondence seemed a hopeless business. He would be later than previously discussed and so should meet in London. It would be best to meet at the docks but doesn't want her to wait for hours.

Describes his journey since he had left Somervell and Crawford in the Lhonak Valley in the north of Sikkim. As she hadn't received some of his letters she might not know the three of them came through the short way from Kharta together leaving the others to come round by Shekar Dzong and Phari, etc. Their way was the same as his and Bullocks the previous year. Could she follow the route on her map? It was difficult to get the Tibetans to go that way and they had to go to Kampa Dzong for transport and waste a day there.

A land slip had rendered the pass down to Laachen unusable and it had fallen out of use until the jungle had covered it over. He believed a bridge had broken too. The others were to spend a fortnight or so in the upper part of the valley, so he made the march eastward to Tango. He started with two yaks and ended about midnight with one. He stayed 3 nights at Tango collecting his baggage from the Lhonuk La and then came through without delay, though in the last stages he had to leave his kit and it arrived a day after him. Sikkim was much less wet than expected. His memories of Sikkim were chiefly of rushing swollen streams and leaches.

Morshead was well and cheery and his left hand had practically recovered. Three fingers at the right were still bound up. One big toe still gave him trouble but was healing up well.

He wouldn't write more now as he had several jobs to do. Hopes they wouldn't be quite ruined by the time he reached home as attractions in the shops were irresistible. Apart from a large bag he had hardly touched the £200 to his credit with the bank there.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Shekkar Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Storm had covered them in dust inside and outside their tents. Describes morning routine. Enjoyed much of the country. Somervell, Norton and Longstaff liked Tibet. Outlines plans for camps at Everest. Delayed so attempted to climb most northerly peak in Gyanka Nampa range. Description of attempt. On return to camp they then had 18 mile march. First view of Everest. Detailed description of a monastery they visited en route.

Detailed Summary
A violent wind had blown fine dust into the tent and everyone and everything was covered with it. Dust was by far the worst of their discomforts at present. This was the second whole day of inactivity but tomorrow they would be marching again and would soon be in the mountain valley where dust wouldn’t blow. Still hadn’t received any mail.

Daily routine - started in crisp sunny air about 7.30am or 8am at the latest. Weather was warmer and the sun very hot until evening. Usually started with a walk for a good stretch, and then joined about six others for tiffin (cheese and biscuits and chocolate). There was an enormous mess tent which preceded them and was waiting at the end of their day’s march providing shelter which he thought was a good arrangement. Strutt’s voice could be heard in each new place cursing.

He enjoyed much of the county on seeing it again. There were only signs of green things though it was spring but the hillsides were often highly coloured with red and orange. Somervell, Norton, and Longstaff also liked Tibet’.

Planned to go to the first base camp made by him and Bullock in the previous year in four days and on the fifth day to take the yaks on as far as they could up the right bank of the Rongbuk glacier. Presumed this would be beyond the comfortable pace of their second base camp, which was ¼ hr below the glacier. This plan would mean an uncomfortable camp but it would ease the marches higher up, so that if their base was near the junction of the East Rongbuk stream with the main glacier three early stages should take them to the North Col. He didn’t think everyone would find them easy. They planned that the first operation from base camp would be to fix the exact positions of two camps between the base and the North Col and determine the best line up the East Rongbuk Glacier – Strutt, Longstaff, Morshead, and Norton would make up a reconnaissance party for that purpose.

Delayed at Gyanka Nampa [mountain range] (two marches before Tinkeye [Tinki]) so he and Somervell planned to climb the most northerly peak of the Gyanka range (20,490 ft). Finch and Wakefield joined them. It was a considerable distance from their camp at Gyanka and more than 7,000 ft above so it was necessary to take light tents about 5 hrs walk up towards the mountain. Somervell made quite a good sketch. They marched for nearly two hours in the dark. He, Finch, Wakefield, and Somervell shared a Whymper tent, lying head to tail across it. He was sleeping in the door and a wind blew in and it was bitterly cold. They left soon after 4am next morning but Finch was mountain sick and couldn’t continue. He and Somervell had a good climb but it got too late so they had to turn back only 500 ft from the summit. Got back very tired and headachey at 1pm and were at Gyanka at 4.30pm. Somervell had more trouble with the wind and felt the height more than he did but he liked him as a climbing companion. He was a thoughtful sensible person and quite perfectly modest, although that wasn’t his first impression when he and Herbert met him on the Matterhorn.

On returning to Gyanka they had to face the unpleasant prospect of an 18 mile march including fording a river and crossing a sandy plain where there were quicksands for the unwary and bad walking on the dunes. It was nearly 5pm before they set out and after 5 miles they had to leave one of the ponies. Then realise they couldn’t reach the ford before dark. He knew the path to the ford. Approaching it they saw some lights, presumably from Tibetan fires. Near the ford they were hailed by a Tibetan who crossed the river to meet them and them and carried him across. A few minutes later they came to the lights and found their own people in a comfortable camp with a hot dinner for them.

Next morning they had a clear view of Everest which was ‘...more wonderful even than I remembered and all the party were delighted by it - which of course appealed to my proprietary feelings’.

He had spent most of that morning in the monastery which fascinated him from an architectural point of view. It had deeply shaded little courts at a hundred different levels and mysterious interiors. Describes monastery in more detail. The temple was ‘even more amazing’ with an alter with half a dozen life-size Buddhas and up in the roof another enormous, gilded Buddha.
He thought that the next time he would write they would be established at the Rongbuk base camp. Still had received no mail and he wanted to hear from her very much. ‘I think of you most when I get to bed at night and summon up your image and want you near me’.

[Postscript] - ‘I don’t think this letter is worth circulating’.