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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 31 January 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 31 1917'

Life was very undecided. Mr Leod, the Doctor and himself were in one place and the Colonel and Robinson in another. Hopes those two will join them tomorrow. Didn’t know if they would continue to occupy their present quarters.

He had enjoyed a walk over frozen marshes. It was very cold.

Was sorry to hear such sad news about her father. He would have to dye his hair dark brown or black in order that the yellow skin may become him.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 31 January 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 31 1917'

He was very idle and so not very pleased with life. They didn’t know if they could stay in their present quarters as the R.E. and R.A. of their Corps were having a battle about it. It was a desirable place – a long terrace with a series of splendid rooms built into the bank which he describes.

He had decided to go back to the battery whether Halifax, the late adjutant, returns or not. He felt uncomfortable and not part of the war. He was enjoying the snow because it would be disgusting when the thaw came. It was a calm part of the line at present and he wondered where the next big blows would strike. The French thought the war would end mid year but he thought there would be heavy fighting before then. Didn't think the Germans would attack Italy.

Glen was Acting Captain and when Lithgow goes would be in command of the battery. Thought he would be good and he would like to serve under him.

They had secured part of their present Headquarters. He had been playing Bridge. Would go to bed soon. Each room was warm as they each had a stove.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 31 December 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Hadn’t felt well so taken some quinine and gone to bed early. Read Quinneys [by Horace Annesley Vachell] which was sufficiently amusing. Thanks for for her Xmas present and wonders what Marbie Mill’s present to him was. No-one would have got him what he really wanted which was a really good torch.

Was going to celerate in the left section of the mess tonight.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 31 December 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on '31 Dec 1916'

Didn’t enjoy his day at the observation post which had been a sloppy messy day. The last work he was doing before leaving the battery had been the construction of a little tin hut for observation, sunk in the ground and his first work on returning was to use it. There was a foot of water in the bottom. This made him think of war as a colossal futility. These were the bad results of going on leave. Was cheerful by the time he returned and had a pleasant evening playing Bridge with Platnauer, Earl, and Grant.

He was to be made an Orderly Officer at Headquarters whilst the adjutant was away. He would learn his job and it would last at least five weeks. He was told that the Colonel was a very nice man, the acting adjutant and signalling-officer were decent fellows and the doctor was a bore. He considered it a good move.

He had begun to read Raymond. He hated Oliver Lodge’s style. Thought the communication from Myers (‘Turnus’—a spirit guide?) was interesting but might be a case of thought reading. Mrs Piper was well known to all the S.P.R. folk [Society for Psychical Research]. Discusses mediums and their work.

Thanks her for the socks, stockings, and chocolate cake.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 31 December 1915

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass, Friday

He had received her letter so understood her unwellness. Hoped to hear that day that she was better.

Had a glorious climb which was new to the others. Their luck with the weather hadn't continued as it was blowing and raining like fury. H. V. R. wasn't in best form yet and Conor came sailing up third in his bluff, breezy manner.

They had no papers there and he wanted to know what was going on in the world so asks her to get the Times Weekly and keep it for him.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 30 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Paris

Had walked in the Tuileries Gardens, looked at the captured guns on view, and been in the Bibliotèque Nationale since lunch. Was enjoying himself very much but longed for her company. The art of enjoying Paris was to sit and allow the spirit of it to enter by the eyes. Even though it was mostly wet and never bright everyone was sitting about after dinner outside cafes or walking in the streets and he was content to sit and watch. He then went into a picture house. Was going to the theatre to see The Barber of Seville by Beaumerchais.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 30 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written 'On the road'

Describes their move south, temporarily to a hot point of the line. Reassures her and asks her to be brave. It was a great adventure and a rich experience and she would love him more for it when they meet again.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 30 March 1924

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from ‘Sedongchen’.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

The mail has come backwards from Yatung whither it was forwarded by the Anchor Line Agents in Bombay. I was very glad to get your letter, & an envelope with enclosures also met me here. It is wretched for you having such a cold March - I see later news of snow again. I am sorry Blunt has not turned up; he must be offended in some way though I can’t see why he should be; I only wrote asking him if a different day would suit him in one particular week.

Dearest one, you needn’t worry that you haven’t been an angel every day of your life. We went through a difficult time together in the autumn; but though we were both conscious that we saw too little of one another last term it seemed to me we were very happy & I often thought how cheerful & pleasant you were when life was not being very agreeable. I’m quite sure we shall settle down to enjoy our home in Cambridge & I will try not to be concerned so much simply with efficiency, which is useful but not a god.
I’m very glad you find people inclined to be kind; I’m sure they will be. I only wish I had had time to see something of our near neighbours with you before I went away.

I will enclose if I can find it a 5/- stamp which came out on an expedition parcel & may amuse some small boy.

This letter will get posted tomorrow from Gnatong & will have a good chance of catching the same mail as the one I wrote yesterday.
We had a good thunderstorm yesterday & the air was delightfully fresh & clear as we came up today. The sun seemed fully hot again like the plains of India, almost.

A great deal of love to you dearest one.
Ever your loving George.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 30 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Full Transcript

Dearest Ruth,

I’m sitting in a café at a village on a main road which acts as our advanced base whither I have been sent on an errand to the Field Cashier. I can get this posted here, and have a few moments.

This also is part a foraging expedition and the driver luckily knew of a farmhouse where many things are sold – quite a number of farms hereabouts have become provision shops but the usual difficulty is that they have no provisions. Today we have been very lucky and I have somewhat prepared for goodness knows what future. I too am afraid that correspondence is going to be difficult but I think I may get letters from you at intervals of 3 or 4 days on the average. You see our lorries have to bring us provisions and ammunition at frequent intervals and the ordinary way is for the ration lorry to bring the mails. Of course I can’t guess what may happen. I don’t suppose we shall be in Berlin in a fortnight but its clear that life will be a very different affair for us if the Army continues digging in shallowed trenches and so on!

I think it would perhaps be a good plan to write to me every other day for the present. Will you try and tell me as much as you can about the people about you who seem to be very numerous just now. I am glad you should have the feeling towards baby that makes you want to have her to yourself all the time – but you won’t let her come too much in the way of other sides of life will you my dear? We’ve talked of that – still I think from your last letter that you seem to be almost too absorbed in Clare at the moment. Your letters vary very much (I expect mine do too) – sometimes more thoughtful than others so that I sometimes feel that your mind has control and sometimes the feelings have it all their own way. I do hope you haven’t many despairing moments.
I expect you keep pretty cheerful and interested too, that’s the main thing.

This must end. I have to fly.
All my love, your George.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 30 April 1924

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongbuk Base Camp

Full Transcript

Dearest Ruth,

We’ve had unexpected notice of a home bound mail tomorrow & I’ve no letter ready. We arrived here only yesterday, & I have been busy ever since, the reason for this is in part that we have arranged for our army of Tibetan coolies to carry our loads up the glacier to No. 2 camp; 150 have actually gone up today; consequently we have had a great rush getting our loads ready to go up. My special concern has been with the high climbing stores & provisions for high camp. Yesterday morning as the animals arrived here I got hold of the boxes I wanted - most of which I knew by sight - from among the feet of the donkeys & yaks and had them carried to a place apart. So I was able to get ready 30 loads, apart from food stores, yesterday afternoon. Later Norton & I had a long pow wow about the whole of our plan as affects the porters. It is a very complicated business to arrange the carrying to the high camps while considering what the porters have been doing & where, during the previous ten days, so as to have sufficient regard to their acclimatisation & fitness; further one has to consider the filling up of Camp III which will still be going on after we have begun the carrying to IV, the accommodation at the various camps; & finally the escorting of porters from III upwards. However, I have made a plan for the porters which fits in with that previously made for climbers, & though a plan of this kind must necessarily be complicated it allows for a certain margin & even a bad day or two won’t upset out applecart.

Irvine & I with Beetham & Hazard start from here on May 3 & after resting a day at Camp III the last 2 will establish Camp IV while I [Irvine] & I have a canter up to about 23,000 up the E. ridge of Changtse, partly to get a better look at camping sites on the mountain & partly to have a trial run & give me some idea of what to expect from I [Irvine] B [Beetham] & H Hazard] two days later will escort the 1st lot of loads to IV; Odell & Geoffrey Bruce the second, establishing Camp V on the following day; Norton & Somervell & lastly Irvine & self follow; Irvine & I will get 2 or 3 days down at Camp I meanwhile.

The Rongbuk Valley greeted us with most unpleasant weather. The day before yesterday & the following night when we were encamped outside the Rongbuk Monastery a bitterly cold wind blew, the sky was cloudy & finally we woke to find a snow storm going on. Yesterday was worse, with light snow falling most of the day. However today has been sunny after a windy night & the conditions on Everest have gradually improved until we were saying tonight that it would have been a pleasant evening for the mountain. It is curious that though quite a considerable amount of snow has fallen during these last few days & the lower slopes are well covered the upper parts of Everest appear scarcely affected – this is a phenomenon we observed often enough in 1922 & notably on the day when we made the first attempt.

I shall be busy with details of personal equipment amongst other things these next two days. But I also hope there’ll be a mail from you & time to read letters & think of you at home & perhaps write you another letter though the Lord knows when the next mail will go away from here.

We continue to be a very pleasant party – Hazard the only difficulty – we have tamed him somewhat. He & Beetham don’t love each other but I hope they’ll manage to hit it off as they are put to work together. B [Beetham] has had a truly marvellous recovery, but I can’t quite believe in his being really strong yet though he makes a parade of energy & cheerfulness & I’m a little doubtful about his being one of the first starters.

Sorry to write so poor & hurried a letter. I’m very fit – perhaps not just so absolutely a strong goer as in ’21 but good enough I believe – anyway I can think of no one in this crowd stronger, & we’re a much more even crowd than in ’22, a really strong lot, Norton & I are agreed. It would be difficult to say of any one of the 8 that he is likely to go farther or less far than the rest. I’m glad the first blow lies with me. We’re not going to be easily stopped with an organisation behind us this time.

Great love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children. Your loving George

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 September 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Comments on the news in Ruth’s letter and recommended she read novels all day [she was at the end of her second pregnancy]. Had hoped his gaiters would have arrived so he could idle on the Downs but an order had come prohibiting the use of riding horses by subalterns. He would only be able to learn with other men in the riding school which was a far less attractive proposal.

Hadn’t much to do except watch horses drinking and there was no compulsion for him to appear on parade. No one had explained what his position was and he had received no orders. He might be put on a course but that prospect didn’t thrill him.

Outlines the difference between heavy artillery and siege.

Describes his walk home the previous evening which totalled 22 miles and as a result his ankle as feeling ‘stupid’ as a result. He had asked the doctor about ionization but he didn’t know what that was and gave him lotion instead.

Tells her to be quick to get Edwin born and recover afterwards so they would live together. He had asked Avie to spend a weekend with him on her way to or from Bournemouth. Had lost his pouch of tobacco but found it in the billiard room.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 October 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes a fall he had suffered on his motor bike which resulted in an injured left hand and strained thumb. The whole camp had attended a lecture on venereal disease given by the Chaplain. Had spent the evening talking to Avie's doctor who was the medical officer in the battery next to his. Describes a "morbid and terrible" dream in which Ruth had died and his emotional reaction. Refers to Uncle Hawes and Aunt Jessie's plans to live in Canada.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was interested in her visit to the Montessori school and wanted to hear all the details. It was a splendid enterprise of hers. Was delighted to think of her getting in touch with the Montessori movement and working out practical ways for it to work in Godalming.

She must have been very busy on her visit to London. He was glad Trafford was so bright. Had no idea Doris had been dangerously ill. Hoped to hear more on her visit to Will and Ka. It was a pity she hadn’t managed to see Jelly.

He had been made quite anxious by all the talk of influenza [Spanish flu] and hoped she wouln’t get it. The number of deaths seemed most alarming. The wife of one of the men there had died of flu.

Had spent a very quiet day. The Major [Gwilym Lloyd George] and Wilson had gone to Calais on a pure joy ride. He had studied French in the morning and gone to a neighbouring wood in the afternoon to collect Autumn leaves and berries. He had received two parcels from her, one with ginger, macaroni and flour and the other with an excellent cake from J & M. Also had two Manchester Guardians by post which were particularly welcome as they couldn’t get yesterday’s paper.

The Major [Gwilym Lloyd George] had received orders to proceed to Versailles for several days. He was lucky and he wished his father was Prime Minister.

Was greatly amused by Aunt Eleanor’s envelopes. Asks Ruth to note the correct spelling of ‘probably’. Also the words ‘apparatus’ and ‘jealous’ [Ruth was dyslexic].

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 March 1924

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, onboard the R.M.S. California en-route to Bombay

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

The first breath of warm air has come this morning, delicious fragrant, spring-like air, one can sit about happily without wearing a coat. I won’t say bask in the sun, for it’s not yet like that – but perhaps it will be hot in the sun when it comes to high noon – and at all events it’s nice to sit in now.

I have a feeling of pleasant prospects about this voyage altogether. The ship is overstocked with passengers at present; but ¾ of them get off at Port Said – they belong to some scheme of an organised tour in Egypt. The remaining ¼ so far as I can see will contain a large proportion of soldiers and their wives, evidently some nice people among them. I find myself almost training my ears to catch the various accents and phrases in the fragments of speech as folk pass, so little will serve for an indication; but chiefly of course the looks of people; and one of the most important reasons you should be here with me is for discussing their looks in the stage before acquaintance.

At table Irvine and I sit side by side (Hazard-Beetham at another table), next to me at the head of the table is a gentlemanly looking Colonel with whom I don’t expect to converse in any very interesting {1} and opposite are a youngish army doctor and his wife, good, enterprising, hard sort of people – hard I mean in the good sense - she is Canadian by birth and doesn’t greatly love Canadians which is a mercy.

Mr Jolly’s friends, the Lennoxes (you’ll remember he’s in the Indian Survey) seem pleasant people too. Anyway here we all are learning each other’s languages, a process which may have gone some useful distance by the time we reach Bombay; and then we shall go our separate ways and I shall never see any of this group again.

We’re going down the coast of Spain at this moment, out of sight of land, though I dare say one could see it from the mast. Passed Finisterre after dinner last night and presumably will turn in past Cape St. Vincent this evening. Do you realise how much the Western edge of Europe slopes away – we have had our clocks put back 49 minutes each of these last two nights, a proceeding I greatly prefer to the other one which will begin tomorrow, after we leave Gib[raltar]. We’ve not to land at Gib[raltar] I hear – rather sad; but we stop to receive and despatch mail and should be near enough to see the best of it.

How are you feeling you poor left behind one? I was glad you decided to abandon waiving on Friday – we weren’t off till 8.30 or thereabouts as the two tugs provided were hopelessly beaten by the wind and couldn’t get us off. It was a wild night that first one; and yesterday in the Bay was wild too, with wind and rain in plenty scudding across the waste of steel-grey white capped waters – a day for staying indoors mostly – with some study of Hindustani, some reading, some writing of letters, a long, long game of Dab it Down with Hazard, and a modicum of exercise in the gymnasium.

Currently I had the impression at first of Hazard that he was going to be tiresome – was bursting with information about the tittle tattle of travel, how many knots the ship will travel per hour and whether one should wear a topie {2} in the Mediterranean and so on; however, since then he seems to have become a nice and reasonable being perhaps he was a little over excited at beginning the journey. Beetham I’m inclined to think is a gem; good humoured and unselfish and a sort of natural butt, one doesn’t quite know why. I expect he’ll be very useful altogether. And so no doubt will Irvine – sensible and not highly strung he’ll be one to depend on, for everything perhaps except conversation.

Since I began writing all the larvae lurking below in bunks or in corners of lounges and smoking rooms have come forth into a new butterfly life on board, and most have seem to be seeking the sun in or near my particular chosen spot; and now are gathering in a cloud to spy out the visible land, a rocky island and a headland beyond which turns out to be {3}

My books so far have been chiefly Andre Maurois’ Life of Shelly or Ariel as he titles it, and Arksarkoff’s Fears of Childhood. Though much of it is psychologically interesting I’m a bit disappointed with Arksakoff – those uncles for instance don’t quite come alive. However I shall proceed. Ariel is a remarkable book, more serious than his others and bringing out very much all the love affairs and the strange mix up with Harriet and Eliza and the rest. I’m not scholar enough to know how much of it is new, but I feel that it presents a story in a fresh way without adding anything about the man, Shelley.

I’ve not yet begun to read any history books nor to write the little article I have to do for Blackie & Son - 3000 words will not take me long and I shan’t worry about it. I’m more concerned at present to write letters – there seems to be a large number of people I want to write to which suggest that one only doesn’t so want in the ordinary way of life because time is short. But here’s the chance to repair so much that’s let go in the ordinary way. I’m immensely enjoying the thought of this clear space of time ahead.

It is horrid dearest one to think that I am to get no letter from you until Darjeeling and perhaps not even there. We shall lose no time – arrive Bombay the 19th, Darjeeling the 22nd and leave D. somewhere about 29th presumably.

Dear love I shall be thinking of you often and often. We have been very close together lately I think and I feel very close to you now. You are going to be outwardly cheerful I know and I hope you will also be inwardly happy while I am away.

I love you always. Dear one.
Ever you loving, George

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Describes their new position on a chalk hillside with woods behind and the struggle they had to get the guns up the valley into position using teams of horses and with the help of a company of Infantry. Problem was ammunition they were given 900 rounds and had used 600 already. Object of the move was to support an Infantry attack. Describes his dug out and that he suspected a rat. Asks her to send ‘Liverpool Virus’ in large quantities. Weather was fine at the moment but there were some unhealthy spots which they would have to inhabit if it rained. Reassures her. Gives his new address as 40th Siege Battery, 15th H.A.G. IV Corps Heavy Artillery, B.E.F.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 January 1919

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

Had just got back from a longish walk. His imagination had been wandering in idle leisure among the Alps and planning wonderful expeditions up great mountains. They would get there together next August.

He was feeling quite well again now. In former years they would have called it the flu but that had to be used for more a more violent illness now.

His lecture [on civics] had gone off quite well. The Colonel and other officers seemed quite pleased with it and had suggested other topics he could give further lectures on but he wasn’t keen to do this.

Would she be going to London for the sales? He needed things like civilian collars and shirts but he could get those in Godalming.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 February 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 3 1917'

Was sorry to hear how ill her father was and that he had a lack of desire to live.

Describes the death of Boal who had been wounded after observing at the observation post.

He had been making shelves all morning. He had made a letter rack which was useful if people would use it. It was impossible to achieve a modest standard of comfort without tidiness as they lived at such close quarters.

They had received yesterday’s paper with the text of the German Note to Neutrals which he felt was an admission of weakness.
Was glad she had sent away the unfavoured nurse and advises her to interest her father in everything. Was glad he liked to see Clare.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 December 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 3 1916'

Was largely occupied with thoughts of Xmas. Describes the large room which they had built and which was nearly finished.

Was arranging a football match on Xmas Day with Platnauer’s battery and he hoped for fine weather.

His week as battery commander was coming to an end and Dunbar would take over. He would be very busy scouring the countryside for beer and sausages. Had enjoyed the last week even though he had been stuck in the office as he needed to be within range of the telephone. The Major was building out a dining room [he includes a plan].

Lists various things he wants: Italian books; two pairs of thick stockings; two toothbrushes; Literary Supplement and occasionally other publications - New Statesman, Nation Review of Reviewers, and Contemporary Review; and some tea.

An excellent plum cake had arrived.

Would refrain from making any remarks about the war. He would await news and continue to believe in the Russian army.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 3 August 1915

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Tuesday

He had been nailing boots (not his) for an hour and a half. Ursula arrived yesterday afternoon and was happy. She found them all playing cards around a fire in the Shack. Hugh had left that morning and had enjoyed himself. The clouds were clearing and they were planning on climbing to the Parson’s Nose. Ruth’s letter had betrayed her anxiety and it was a mild affair and he was very strong.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29-30 October 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

The day had been so disgusting that he was quite demoralised. Cold pitiless rain and so no duties. Had read Felix Holt by George Eliot which was very good and he earnestly recommended it to her.

Didn’t want to discuss religion in a letter in case he caused her pain as their views were so far apart, especially about the New Testament which he regarded as a fallible human record of a wonderful man which he tried to understand in its historical setting. She took more literal guidance from the Gospels. He had not the slightest respect for the Church as divinely instituted. He was afraid she had a long journey of doubt and difficulty before her.

Had received two letters from her and a cake. They had been enjoying the preserved fruits and ginger. He had gone to a canteen which he had not been to before to buy provisions but it was full of people so he decided to be there at 8am when it opened.

30 Oct - weather was still atrocious. Had got stuff from canteen. Bell was at the O.P. [observation post] but could see nothing. Last time Earl had been in the trenches he and another man tried for 15 mins to pull an officer out of the mud but failed until further assistance came. It had been quite a while since he had been to the front line. If they ever pushed the Germans over the Bapaume Ridge the fighting would start again. Couldn’t think how miserable the Infantry must be.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29-30 August 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'Dug-Out' France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 29 1916'

Had returned to the battery and the other half had left for the rest camp. They had been replaced with new men. His back hurt and the world of war was dismal. Torrential rain had been very hard to keep out of their holes and half his hole was a puddle and in a great mess. Describes how he had dug a soaking pit and diverted the water from the roof.

Had been busy on his day off attending to a new dug out which was to be a den of pleasure as the mess room was too dank. Had the holes in the ceiling of the mess room blocked up too.

30 Aug – Very wet day. Had been doing jobs around the battery. Describes the telephonists dug out where he was sitting writing and what he could see from there.
Comments on the good news from Romania and the interior of Germany where it must be bad if their troops were running short of food.
Had received letters from Uncle Hawes and Aunt Jessie but they were badly written. Describes how to write a good letter.
Had written no more of his Book of Geoffrey.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 September 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Writes in the midst of packing and arrangements. He was disappointed that the end was so much tamer than he had hoped.

He carried the whole party on his shoulders to the end and they were turned back by a wind in which no man could live for an hour. He had plenty of reserve and could have carried on another 2,000 ft with ease had the conditions been favourable. They had established the way to the summit for anyone who cared to try the highest adventure and he didn't much regret having failed to beat the record as they could have done easily enough had fortune favoured them.

He and Bullock planned to tavel together to Lachen, in Sikkim, where Bullock hoped to meet his wife. He would then travel on to Darjeeling alone and expected to be there about the 20th.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 May 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Phari, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead.

He had received Ruth's letter from one month prior noting it took about three days for the mail to get from Darjeeling. He was looking up at the mountains as he was writing to her. There had been a change in scenery from the valley and flowers to a wide flat basin, occurring within three hours as they trekked to Phari. Chumolhari was a single snow peak as high above them as the Matterhorn. Phari was a fort squarely built of stone. There were no roofs. Asks after Mrs Hodge, and wonders about letting the house.

They had spent the day crossing the Jelep La in bad weather. He had a nasty headache and was feeling weak folowing rises in elevation. It had been too rough to ride a pony until they got down onto the Chumbi Valley. The descent onto the Tibet side of the Jelep river was beautiful with many blooming flowers and had been surprised to see four enormous vultures. They had spent time at a bungalow hosted by a political officer and his family. The expedition had been living on the country and Wollaston and Wheeler had both been unwell.

[Letter continues later] - Describes weary walks and being affected by the heights. Other members of the party had arrived and together they were to head towards Kampa Dzong and then to Tinki, with ponies and yaks. It was cold and they had experienced dust storms. He slept in a tent with Bullock. Wollaston and Kellas had not yet arrived. Accounts of the expedition written by Howard-Bury would be published in The Times, wired from Bombay and perhaps three weeks ahead of his letters. Howard-Bury was not a kind man, Wheeler had a colonial fashion, and Heron seemed jolly today.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Believed they were moving that night south to the 1st Army. Orders had only just come. Had only that afternoon planted all the seedlings from Westbrook. Only half the Battery was to move. Lithgow and Bell were to go with him. No more bricks and mortar. Was sad he wouldn’t see the end of the building project. Thought they would be touring the country in motor lorries for a few days which he would enjoy but it was going to be wet. Was glad of a servant who packed for him and would upack. Was glad to think of her with Avie.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 March 1924

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongli Chu.

Full Transcript

My dearest One,

This is the great day of valley-ease & warmth & languor & the delights of the lotus-eater, & I must write to you here with my feet in the splashing stream & heaven all about me as I look up. We started from Pedong this morning – sloped easily down the 2,000 ft to the stream where I bathed last time while Noel immortalised the event; there Irvine, Odell & I bathed, properly this time, even finding a pool to dive into, and at length. Thence on ponies up to Rheenok - you should be able to follow all this on one of my old maps of Sikhim [Sikkim] – where I made some attempts at photographing the remarkable houses, & thence, not up over the pass by Ari to get here by the shortest way, but contouring the hill until we could drop into this valley 6 miles below the bungalow. It is a very lovely valley, quite one of the best parts of Sikhim [Sikkim], & we had a good walk up, quite energetically carrying heavyish rucksacks. I was wearing my new boots for the first time for a whole march & found them pretty comfortable, my ankle & hip are all going quite well too, so that I quite expect by the time we reach Phari I shall have ceased to think about them.

The weather is perfectly fine but very hazy owing to the great number of fires in the valleys. It is the custom of the country to burn a good deal of undergrowth in the forests & dead leaves in order to get better new grass in the spring – but I can’t remember anything like so much haze as this last year. Consequently we have had nothing at all of a view all the way from Darjeeling & the country is looking more dry & dead than last year; it has in fact been very dry; I hear there has been exceptionally little snow in Tibet & the plains are already beginning to look green – but this is hardly credible. Incidentally, there are sights of a change of weather this afternoon but then we had a thunderstorm in Kalimpong which made absolutely no difference!

It has apart from views been a pleasant journey so far. We started in motors for 6 miles from Darjeeling & half way down the hill Norton, Hingston, Somervell & self had breakfast with a tea planter called Lister – it is a famous tea garden I believe & he certainly gave us to drink Orange Pekoe of the most delicious flavour (a series of violent slashes at this point). After that pleasant interval we took all the short cuts hurrying down to Tista Bridge, where we arrived dripping & found our ponies; my pony which is to carry me to Phari is quite a good beast – the best I have had at this stage & my saddle is comfortable & I feel very well off altogether -; we went straight up the hill on our ponies & were in Kalimpong at 1.30 for tiffin.

At Kalimpong next day last times performances were repeated – a “tamasha” for boy scouts & girl guides & a wonderful little ceremony in the big school room with all of us on the platform singing the metrical version of Psalm 121 to the tune of Old Hundredth, & prayers, & speech making divine/mixed. Old Dr Graham is really a wonder, & if one were going to be a missionary one couldn’t do better. He has between 6 & 700 children, mostly by bastards or children of ne’er-do-well parents & does them well all round. When the old Scot is short of money he goes down to Calcutta & collects a few batches of rupees from the big businessmen who all know & believe in him & his institutions flourish.

I think I told you the names of the 2nd party, but omitted Odell. Shebbeare the forest officer is an excellent fellow; we went a little walk into the forest above Pedong last evening & we saw quite close a very fine jungle cat, about as high as Raven but with the propositions of Agapanthus or rather perhaps of the other Westbrook cat, which it does resembled in colour – S. didn’t get a very good view of it & couldn’t tell me what it was; but it is extraordinary how it makes the whole forest seem alive to see a beast like that. We couldn’t be a nicer party – at least I hope the others would say the same; we go along our untravelled way in happiest fashion.
Since I began writing the air has become unbearably stuffy & a thunderstorm is brewing. The one crab about this place is that there is no water supply which is at all likely to unpolluted – & so one drinks tea, but our tiffin tea has left me very thirsty & I long for a long lemon squash or whisky & soda. You see how completely a physical animal one has become.

I’m spending a certain amount of time & effort as we come along learning Hindustani; it is very unsatisfactory because the coolies themselves are so bad at it; but I do find already that I get on with them more easily. We shall be very short of men who can speak to porters higher up. Irvine, Odell & Beetham, none of them know a word yet.

Dearest I’m really enjoying myself now with a good holiday feeling. If I were not I should be still feeling grieved with the world because no letter has yet reached me from you. Anyway after four marches I will receive a mail. Tomorrow’s march is all up hill to Sedongchen & the next, still up to Gnatong (12,500), is the great rhododendron march, but only the very lowest will be in flower. I have in mind another little detour, by the way of variety, from Kupup, diverging to the Natu La instead of Jelap La as before.

Dear girl I think of you often & often with ever so much love & wish for your company. Would there were some way of bringing you nearer. I think the nearness depends very much upon the state of ones imagination. When it boils up as it does sometimes at night, under the stars I could almost whisper in you ear; and even now dear I do feel near you, though my state is loggish & I come very near to kissing you.

My love to Clare & Berry & John & best of all to yourself.
Ever your loving, George.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 July 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 29'

Describes the death of two young men in the battery who were killed as they all returned together from the trenches.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 July 1915

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

Thanks her for sending on his silk socks which he had forgotten. They had a strenuous first day climbing different variations of routes on the South Buttress of Tryfan. He had rescued a lamb and carried it to safety in his rucksack. They had gone to Ogwen for tea as he wanted to persuade Mrs Jones to take the O’Malley party after their week in their current hotel. Hugh was a better walker than he expected but he hadn't got the hang of climbing yet and he was worried he didn't like it. O’Malley was a nice gentle person but wasn't very interesting. Their next objective was Lliwedd but the road had been closed by the military. They were going to invite Lieutenant Fisher (the officer in command) to dinner. The previous night he had sat with a mug of beer by the fire, played picquet with Hugh and read a chapter of The Ambassadors in bed.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 December 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on 'Friday 29 Dec 1916' on his arrival back in France after his leave

He had made a list in pencil of requirement that he had forgotten to leave with her. He had arrived back early that morning. Men were all really pleased with Xmas Day. They were firing in the morning of Xmas Day so dinner was late - 3pm. There was a continuous session with food and music until midnight.

Mud was worse than when he had left. He had tripped over a wire but saved himself.

He had finished Mr Britling Sees it Through [by H. G. Wells] on the train which was very interesting and he would send it to her to read.

Talks about their time together whilst he was on leave.

He had found her parcel - plums, assorted fruits, ginger, chocolates, tinned turkey, and brawn. The mince pies were greatly appreciated and some mincemeat remained. Chocolate cake had not arrived.

Had to be up early for the Observation Post.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 29 December 1915

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Wednesday

He and Reade had spent the day climbing on Lliwedd. The mist was thick and there was snow around. He lead and was in quite good form. He had worn two shirts which was an excellent way of clothing himself.

Conor O’Brien did not arrive last night as the steamers from Ireland were not running in daylight for fear of submarines. He had arrived that morning after they had left for the day. The fourth member of the party couldn’t come at all.

Alan was more responsible and soberer. The constant need for control, thought and care had matured him. This meant he was less interesting than usual. He would stick at his job after the war and it was a shame he hadn’t gone to the Varsity. He would always be one of the nicest of people.

Is concerned about her health and asks if the reason for her high temperature was milk fever and whether Clare was now taking a bottle. Hopes she will enjoy her part in Mildred’s wedding and asks who will cook for her guests at the Holt. Hopes Mildred took his letter to her well as he feared it might have come across as rather a lecture. Asks her to date her letters.

Postscript - the clouds had lifted and the glass had gone up so they ought to have a fine day, rather windy and cold.

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