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Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

24 May – Thinks he is good for many reasons and won’t give up being critical. Voices her opinions on the role of women’s independence in marriage. Is glad he likes Mr Clutton-Brocks’ book on William Morris. Expresses her concerns over voicing her feelings. She has finished the Alpine book. Describes a walk that led her to a mountain range called Dooish, their progress was slow as Mildred got tired. Explains the plan they had for reaching the top. Describes the scenery. Tells him of another mountain he might like to climb. Describes the journey home. Had a wonderful time telling fairy stories with Mildred and Alison.

25 May – Is sorry his last letter was so short. Describes her morning fishing with the party. She is glad he has written to his mother. There has been no news from Miss Davies. Expresses her opinions on a Russian story she is reading.

Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

Tells him her hand is getting better. Discusses her book The Brother Karamazov. Is tired of writing letters. Gives her opinion on Keats and discusses William Morris’s designs. Relays a conversation with Uncle Hawes on the temper of women. Tells of her plans for the day. Expresses the kindness of Miss Wilton to offer them her house.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

She must be in another continent at least as he had not yet received a letter from her.

His Form were dong a paper on the First Act of King Lear. He had been to a tennis party and dinner party at the Headmaster's House where Mrs Fletcher [wife of the Headmaster] had referred to Ruth as very pretty. Mrs Fletcher had asked about their arrangements for the future and what colour their rooms would be. Suggests they should be high toned and have an emerald, sapphire or amethyst room; or be romantic and have a room like Monte Cristo’s cave; or like the bottom of the sea; or, should he take Orders and adopt mid Victorian culture?

Had been to a dinner party at Prior’s Field with the Clutton-Brocks. Sets out his plans for the weekend.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had started the letter once already ragging her for not writing [he had not received a letter that day] but had torn it up as he was afraid she would take it too seriously. He assumes there was no Sunday post. His sister Mary and Ralph Brooke were in the room talking and it was distracting him. Ralph had played in a cricket match against the school and made a century. Would she like him to be a hero like that? Mary and Ralph were talking about their wedding service plans and about cricket.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School on headed notepaper [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had written to his mother but did not understand her reply until Mary [his sister] explained to him that it was usual for a bride-groom’s parents to provide house linen. He had slept out the previous night and felt glorious and now had to prepare his history lessons.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was longing to be with her. What was the use of writing about the little things he had done and thought when one thing was so much greater than the rest.

[Letter is continued later that day] - He had spent a glorious evening in her canoe with two boys and had a successful picnic. He describes the different garden flowers he had seen. Asks her where they should meet the following Wednesday. Upcoming week would be spent correcting the English papers of scholarship candidates and seeing pupils. His mother wanted them to visit her in Birkenhead, and that she was delighted with his letter. He hoped she got up that mountain on Saturday.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Balliol College, Oxford [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had been in Oxford where the book shops were the best in the world. This would be the last letter before her journey to see him and he longed for Wednesday.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Friday

He was leaving Pen y Pass that day to travel to meet his father and Trafford, although he still hadn’t heard where they would be. He describes the previous days climbing which included walking over Mynedd Mawr which had a wonderful view of all the Snowdon group, stopping for a cup of tea in Snowdon village before walking over the flank of Snowdon and the top of Lliwedd getting back at 8.30pm. Ursula was a good walker and showed no signs of having been unduly exhausted. Was sorry Cottie had not been able to go with them. The group had a great deal of fun and good talk. Bertie Graham was a solid good natured Scot with a real sense of humour. He liked Owen but thought he was a professional pessimist and it was a pity he was so unfit. He hadn’t been reading the papers carefully but it was a comfort that the German losses must have been very big.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Ripon on Sunday

He was currently sitting at a large open sash window on the first floor of a Georgian house looking out over a square in Ripon which was pleasant and quiet. This was very different to the previous day as there were 40-50,000 troops stationed in the neighbourhood and the street seemed a scene of barbaric turmoil after the quiet of the mountains. It had rained so they had been unable to go to the surrounding countryside as planned. Trafford was supposed to have arrived with a sidecar and he [Mallory] brought a bike from Birkenhead. However, Trafford had not arrived in Ripon and the soldiers had taken all the bikes in the town so their mobility was limited. They had a huge pile of luggage but no power of mobility. He hoped they could find a place to stay in the country until Wednesday when his father had to leave him.

Trafford had obtained his father’s consent to his marriage and had gone to London to make arrangements, but they had received no wire from him. All the troops that had been in the cathedral had now left and were marching in columns in the square and he couldn’t work out how they didn’t run into each other. He had enjoyed his time in Wales and had left it with many regrets.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Castlestead, Pately Bridge

Asks her to send a nightshirt to Magdalene College as he was planning on going there on Friday and also the coat and waistcoat from his wedding suit to Mr Barnet Beales, Sidney Street, Cambridge. He had received three letters from her which was a great joy. It was great news about Mildred’s engagement. She wouldn’t have consented if she hadn’t been sure herself that he was the man for her and he was a very good man [Ruth’s sister Mildred married Robert Morgan].

[He starts to write an account of the previous day but the letter ends abruptly mid sentence and there is no sign off].

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pateley Bridge

Hopes she wasn’t disappointed by the scrap he wrote that morning [see MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/12]. The more he thinks about Mildred’s engagement the better hopes he has and thinks that a few years difference in age shouldn’t matter [Ruth’s sister Mildred married Robert Morgan].

He was enchanted by his visit to Fountains Abbey which stirred his imagination and made him ask questions about the daily life of the monks and wish he were a poet. He took twelve photos and his camera had lain unused in his rucksack whilst he was in Wales. He had been talking with a French girl who was a teacher in a girls’ school in Scarborough and was waiting for a permit to cross to friends in Ireland. She absolutely refused to believe that he was married. He might go to Bolton Abbey or Wensleydale and Jervaulx Abbey the following day.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Anchor Line, T.M.S. California [Letterhead], March

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My Dearest Ruth,

It is Saturday and early on Wednesday morning we shall be in Bombay, so the voyage is nearing its end. I had a scheme of writing you a little each day, but though I have thought of you often I have written little [struck through] nothing. The fact is that the days after all turn out to be too short. As you may imagine my first idea has been to keep fit. It is never very easy in the hot weather, and though it was cool enough until we were in the Canal it has been hot since then – not remarkably hot, but limp-hot. For two days going down the Red Sea we had a following wind; there was no air on the ship and our cabin with the afternoon soon became insufferable. One night I tried to sleep on deck, with two pillows and two deck chairs to help me, but though it was pleasant enough lying under the stars, too exciting perhaps I got no sleep and in the early morning retired to the cabin. But the nights have been bearable except for that one and the great way to be fit is to perspire freely both before breakfast and again in the evening before dinner. With Beetham and Irvine I do a good deal of throwing and catching the medicine ball and that proves the best way of all. Occasionally I run, ten times round the deck, which is about a mile. Anyway activities of this sort cut into the time between tea and dinner; after dinner when I don’t play Bridge (ie. about every other night) I don’t find I get much done of anything serious and one is hot and stuffy and after dinnerish. However I have a done a good whack at Hindustani at which I hope to be very much more efficient this time. I have read a little history; I have written the article for Blackie and Son and I have studied the oxygen apparatus and gone through lists of stores and invoices so as to get to know exactly what we have that we shall want from the Base Camp on and have my own list in a notebook. The one serious omission is crampons – nothing but the old-fashioned heavy kind; it is very disappointing; I made a great point of that with the equipment people. It means we shall have to cut steps up the final slope I suppose. The oxygen apparatus is going to be awkward to carry and particularly to cut steps when wearing it will be difficult. I have spent some time too going into the question of organising high camps; but it is difficult to come to any conclusions at present and I think very likely our plan should be to have a stray reconnaissance using oxygen from the North Col to decide the heights of different places suggested and also how many people could sleep there. The point of using oxygen would be to preserve the strength of those making the reconnaissance. However this plan would be rather expensive of organisation, and I doubt whether we shall carry it out.

The ship has been much more agreeable since we unshipped our cargo of Scotch tourists at Port Said. There is room now on board and one can find a corner and get away and be quiet if one wants to. We sit eight at a table of whom one is Irvine and it is quite an agreeable little crowd. I am always down and have finished breakfast before anyone else arrives unless it is Irvine and then seek solitude, so I hardly see anything of anybody before lunch. If people see one busy – and they have grown accustomed to see me busy – they don’t mercifully, disturb one. Even so it isn’t easy to get much done; if one sits in a wind papers blow about and if one sits out of it one is too hot. They are a nice lot of people quiet and dullish and unobjectionable. I fear I’m not seeming very sociable, but they have asked me to give a talk about our expedition and I have agreed to do that tomorrow night.

I’ve a sort of feeling that I’ve left all the difficult things to you. I do wonder how you’ll get on about selling the Holt and letting Herschel House, and building our new wall and dealing with the garden. I came to no agreement with you about paying bills while I am away – I think the best plan will be for you to pay none unless it seems urgently necessary; I think there can hardly be any to pay, unless it is the Army and Navy stores for port wine and any Everest things, e.g. Bodger’s and Beales can wait.
Don’t forget the wine cellar must be locked up if you let the house; and in the cellar is the over mantle for Mrs Lock.
I wonder where you will be when you get this. As your plans were vague I shall post to Herschel House; and it should get there about April 5 and may catch you. Your first letter to me should reach Bombay 2 days after us and so I should only have 2 days in Darjeeling to wait for it.

I haven’t said a word to you about my hip which was bothering me – you will have gathered that it is better, and it is indeed perfectly well and strong, so that I never think of it or notice it; in fact I am pretty fit altogether; my ankle and its behaviour in new boots are the only anxiety; but I have a comfortable old pair for marching and shoes besides so I should be all right.
I feel this to be a very dull letter. I hope you got my communications from Port Said all right, particularly 2 boxes of Turkish Delight addressed to all three children. I want to know about that because I had to get them despatched from a shop. And did I ask you to send photos of yourself and them? I do like to have them.

Monday – The end of the voyage begins to loom near. Thoughts of the journey across India and various details obtrude themselves. I shall begin packing today, because I don’t see exactly how I am to dispose of the heavy suit in which I came on board – you’ll remember that I haven’t much room left in the suitcases.

I find myself wanting to see India again and looking forward to the journey in spite of heat and dust. How dirty we shall be by the time we reach Calcutta!

The Indian Ocean has been remarkably smooth and lifeless, and rather grey as it always is – until today when it is all alive with a delicious breeze, and blue like the Mediterranean. We’ve seen nothing of interest but a school of dolphins which performed with a truly amazing joie de vivre.

It is curious that now I am in warm sunshine I must think of you in a summer frock – March 17 – perhaps it is snowing in Cambridge. England does look a little grim from the tropics at this time of year. But you’ll have an English spring and sunshine. I wonder if you will go to see Mill give them my love if you do – I do like the way they have settled down – they’ve done it very nicely, and they are nice happy people.

How I wish I had you with me; with so much leisure we should have enjoyed this time together; and I would have been able to give you so much more than I can give you in our daily life at home. Supposing that you instead of Hazard had been sharing my cabin and I could have peeped over in the morning from my perch and seen you lying below and we would have gone up into the bows together in our silk dressing gowns to breathe the fresh morning air and sat together here where now I am alone – dear girl we give up and miss a terrible lot by trying to do what is right; but we must see we don’t miss too much.

I shall write again before we leave Darjeeling, one day early next week so as to catch the next mail after this one, which will go out on Friday the 21st.

Great love to you, dearest one, and many, many kisses for the children.
Ever you loving
George

P.S. I’m sending a few stamps I bought off a man in the street in Port Said. If you know any small boy of our acquaintance, Bobby, or John, or Franz, will you send them on to one of them. Aunt Jessie will probably have them and anyway is old enough to know better.
G.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Hotel Mount Everest, Darjeeling [Letterhead].

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My dearest Ruth,

These have been full days since we came up here on Friday & tomorrow, Wednesday early, we start for Kalimpong - so that our stay has been short enough, & much taken up with packing & arrangements of one sort or another. Norton has got the whole organisation under his hand & we shall economise much time & money by dumping some of our boxes en route: all the stores for the high camps have practically been settled already. He is going to be an ideal 2nd to Bruce.

The party looks very very fit altogether. We had a very hot journey through India. The hot weather apparently came with a rush this year just before we landed & the temperature must have been up to 100 a good part of the time we were in the train, as it was supposed to be 99 in Calcutta; its a grimy dirty business & I was glad to get to the end of our train journeying. I was feeling a bit short of sleep otherwise very fit. The only doubts I have are whether the old ankle one way or another will cause me trouble.

Four of us walked up to Senschal Hill yesterday afternoon to see the magnolias. I was trying my new boots from Dewberry; they are going to be good but my right ankle didn’t feel too happy.

The magnolias were magnificent, a better show than last year - four different sorts white & deep cerise pink & two lighter pinks between - they so look startlingly bright on a dark hillside.

The country here is very dry at present & a haze of heat blown up from the plains hangs about. we haven’t seen the mountains until this morning when Kanchen has very timely made an appearance. Somervell & Odell besides the General, Geoffrey Bruce & Norton etc were here before us; it was very nice to see S. again & Odell is one of the best. Really it is an amazingly nice party altogether; one of the best is Hingston our M.O., an Irishman a quiet little man & a very keen naturalist. The only one I don’t yet know is Shebbeare, who belongs to the Forestry Department & is said to be a particularly nice man; he knows all about trees & shrubs which is a very good thing but nothing about flowers. So that we shall once more be without a real botanist.

We go to Kalimpong all together, as before, tomorrow and then separate in two parties; I shall be with the second, with Norton, Hingston, Irvine & Shebbeare I believe. Noel’s movements are independent; he is more than ever full of stunts; the latest in a Citroen tractor which some hour or another is to come into Tibet a pure ad of course (this may be a secret for the present).

The Everest Committee has now among us all a wonderful reputation for muddle and the latest is that after all they gave us the wrong address & the old one c/o Post Master, Darjeeling is correct. However I shall get your letters addressed to Yatung with little delay.

The English mail should have come in yesterday but the ship was 12 hrs late & we shan’t get it until today & consequently will have precious little time for answering.

I long to get your letter dear though it will only give me 3 days’ news.

How long is it since I left you? It will be four weeks on Friday. By now or very soon you will be leaving Cambridge for a time & won’t feel so lonely. I know you must have been feeling lonely some evenings; but you will have had Frances Wills part of the time & I hope you will have been out or had people to see you sometimes too. I expect the absence of me must make you feel less busy? Have you made a fresh start with china painting?

Dearest one, I often want you with me to enjoy things with & to talk over things & people quietly; and I want to take you in my arms & kiss your dear brown head. Here’s a great holiday time it seems & you not with me. But we’ll have a wonderful holiday together one of these days won’t we?

Later - The English mail has come in & I’ve had a letter from Mother but none from you. My dearest it is very disappointing. I hoped you would catch me at Darjeeling. Perhaps you directed to Yatung in which case I shall get your letter there in 7 days time.
I lunched with Her Excellency (what a title) Lady Lytton & her family today. Lady L. is really very nice but lord how folk can live with aides de camp hanging round! 2 here & presumably 2 more at Calcutta & one civilian one military secretary!

Much love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children.
Ever your loving
George.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongli Chu.

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My dearest One,

This is the great day of valley-ease & warmth & languor & the delights of the lotus-eater, & I must write to you here with my feet in the splashing stream & heaven all about me as I look up. We started from Pedong this morning – sloped easily down the 2,000 ft to the stream where I bathed last time while Noel immortalised the event; there Irvine, Odell & I bathed, properly this time, even finding a pool to dive into, and at length. Thence on ponies up to Rheenok - you should be able to follow all this on one of my old maps of Sikhim [Sikkim] – where I made some attempts at photographing the remarkable houses, & thence, not up over the pass by Ari to get here by the shortest way, but contouring the hill until we could drop into this valley 6 miles below the bungalow. It is a very lovely valley, quite one of the best parts of Sikhim [Sikkim], & we had a good walk up, quite energetically carrying heavyish rucksacks. I was wearing my new boots for the first time for a whole march & found them pretty comfortable, my ankle & hip are all going quite well too, so that I quite expect by the time we reach Phari I shall have ceased to think about them.

The weather is perfectly fine but very hazy owing to the great number of fires in the valleys. It is the custom of the country to burn a good deal of undergrowth in the forests & dead leaves in order to get better new grass in the spring – but I can’t remember anything like so much haze as this last year. Consequently we have had nothing at all of a view all the way from Darjeeling & the country is looking more dry & dead than last year; it has in fact been very dry; I hear there has been exceptionally little snow in Tibet & the plains are already beginning to look green – but this is hardly credible. Incidentally, there are sights of a change of weather this afternoon but then we had a thunderstorm in Kalimpong which made absolutely no difference!

It has apart from views been a pleasant journey so far. We started in motors for 6 miles from Darjeeling & half way down the hill Norton, Hingston, Somervell & self had breakfast with a tea planter called Lister – it is a famous tea garden I believe & he certainly gave us to drink Orange Pekoe of the most delicious flavour (a series of violent slashes at this point). After that pleasant interval we took all the short cuts hurrying down to Tista Bridge, where we arrived dripping & found our ponies; my pony which is to carry me to Phari is quite a good beast – the best I have had at this stage & my saddle is comfortable & I feel very well off altogether -; we went straight up the hill on our ponies & were in Kalimpong at 1.30 for tiffin.

At Kalimpong next day last times performances were repeated – a “tamasha” for boy scouts & girl guides & a wonderful little ceremony in the big school room with all of us on the platform singing the metrical version of Psalm 121 to the tune of Old Hundredth, & prayers, & speech making divine/mixed. Old Dr Graham is really a wonder, & if one were going to be a missionary one couldn’t do better. He has between 6 & 700 children, mostly by bastards or children of ne’er-do-well parents & does them well all round. When the old Scot is short of money he goes down to Calcutta & collects a few batches of rupees from the big businessmen who all know & believe in him & his institutions flourish.

I think I told you the names of the 2nd party, but omitted Odell. Shebbeare the forest officer is an excellent fellow; we went a little walk into the forest above Pedong last evening & we saw quite close a very fine jungle cat, about as high as Raven but with the propositions of Agapanthus or rather perhaps of the other Westbrook cat, which it does resembled in colour – S. didn’t get a very good view of it & couldn’t tell me what it was; but it is extraordinary how it makes the whole forest seem alive to see a beast like that. We couldn’t be a nicer party – at least I hope the others would say the same; we go along our untravelled way in happiest fashion.
Since I began writing the air has become unbearably stuffy & a thunderstorm is brewing. The one crab about this place is that there is no water supply which is at all likely to unpolluted – & so one drinks tea, but our tiffin tea has left me very thirsty & I long for a long lemon squash or whisky & soda. You see how completely a physical animal one has become.

I’m spending a certain amount of time & effort as we come along learning Hindustani; it is very unsatisfactory because the coolies themselves are so bad at it; but I do find already that I get on with them more easily. We shall be very short of men who can speak to porters higher up. Irvine, Odell & Beetham, none of them know a word yet.

Dearest I’m really enjoying myself now with a good holiday feeling. If I were not I should be still feeling grieved with the world because no letter has yet reached me from you. Anyway after four marches I will receive a mail. Tomorrow’s march is all up hill to Sedongchen & the next, still up to Gnatong (12,500), is the great rhododendron march, but only the very lowest will be in flower. I have in mind another little detour, by the way of variety, from Kupup, diverging to the Natu La instead of Jelap La as before.

Dear girl I think of you often & often with ever so much love & wish for your company. Would there were some way of bringing you nearer. I think the nearness depends very much upon the state of ones imagination. When it boils up as it does sometimes at night, under the stars I could almost whisper in you ear; and even now dear I do feel near you, though my state is loggish & I come very near to kissing you.

My love to Clare & Berry & John & best of all to yourself.
Ever your loving, George.