Showing 2629 results

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 7 1916'

Had been with Bell all day and had written to Trafford, Arthur Benson, Geoffrey Young and Graves.

Hadn’t been back to the front line again mainly because of changing arrangements. They were expecting a new officer and Glen back again.

Thanks her for sending thick socks which he would save for winter. Ingrown toenail was hurting him.

Mentions leave but it was still too distant. Were having lovely weather. Assumed she was still at Westbrook.

Was quite pleased with his dug out. Asks her to write on thinner paper because her letters made a bulky package and he wouldn’t want to leave them behind when he returned to England.

Had enjoyed writing to Geoffrey about the Alps. Amazed by the desire he had for that side of life again. You would think he would like something less keen after the war but he didn’t feel like that at all. There was a great life out there and they must bring it off. He felt fit and healthy thanks to the war.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 7 1917'

Was still acting as a liaison officer with the French and describes how they viewed the English. He thought they were further on in their management of artillery and thought he would learn more by reading and discussing their pamphlets.

He had been recommended for a staff lieutenancy although he didn't know what sort of job he might be offered. He wouldn't choose that sort of job as it would always make him feel uncomfortable but it would be more active which he would like so if he was compelled in that direction he would be glad. He would be sorry to leave the battery and would find more people to dislike in the staff than he did in the group.

He liked the Lieutenant and Captain. They were above average intelligence and were ready to help and converse with him. He also liked their society because if he attempted to be humorous he was more likely to be understood.

He was warm by the stove and he had a charming man servant. He had been very lucky since he had returned from leave and hardly remembered what mud was and what it was like to be in a wet trench.

Thought she might be having a bad time but there was much to be happy about with a chance of real victory soon, a new baby, and him as safe as he could be at the moment.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

It was only 10 days until term started and he still hadn’t got his release. When was she moving into the Holt? Was sure he would come in for the move. No move would be complete without him.

She mentioned Mr Brooke several times. Thought he had met him at Brooke Hall and expected him to be quite interesting. Did she see the Head Master’s speech at the Head Master’s conference in which he said they should aim for voluntary Chapel which seemed a very long step for him. Wonders if he had read Clutton-Brock’s book and if so what he thought of it. Thought he would offer to preach in Chapel as it was important to have religious teaching other than official Church teaching.

Thanks her for the parcel of chocolates which were very good. Was sorry about the bad news of Violet’s father’s leg. Was afraid this would not increase the chances of Violet staying with them.

Had prepared his lecture for that afternoon which was on the growth of freedom in England.

Was sorry Clare had been unwell and she was to give her his love and tell her Daddy said she must be gay and happy and not cross.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They didn’t move on yesterday but were to go on tonight. Last two days had been idle and he had read the weekly Times and Daily Mail. They were all thrilled with the great sea fight [Battle of Jutland]. Felt the war was beginning to move, wonders about the effects of the artillery on both sides and what will happen when all the enemy attacks fail. Enemy was capable of inflicting great losses and the French had lost enormously at Verdun. They had been practically unmolested. Hopes they will move south. Germans were busy around Ypres.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from No. 1 General Base Depot, B.E. F. France

Once he began his next move he might not be able to write for a day or two. He had no news of that kind yet. He didn’t like waiting. They had been sent to see various works going on in the training ground and were supposed to censor letters in the mornings. He liked his days full and planned out so was not enjoying the waiting.

Had revolver practice and would be able to shoot a German 20 yards away if he stayed still and gave him plenty of time to aim. The Colonel talked to them all and presented them with a reprint of an article from The Times on the ‘Soldier’s Character’ which he and Ruth had read on the train from Weymouth. They were then shown the gas helmet and how to put it on and how to train a detachment to use it. It was unpleasant to use and one was generally sick with the smell of it. He took it as part of the beastliness of war.

That afternoon was fine and fresh after the rain and he walked alone in the lovely country. The camp was on a hillside overlooking Harfleur [he has drawn a diagram showing the position of the camp and the route of this walk]. The countryside was brilliant with fresh greens, beeches and poplars. He amused himself in Montvilliers until the children all crowed around demanding souvenirs and he had given them her return train ticket and two pencils. The Church was very good. A service was going on in memory of dead soldiers. There was a list in the porch of 75 men from Montvilliers who had been killed. As the town was the size of Godalming that number didn’t seem that great and if you used that as a basis French losses would total about 300,000. This was quite enough in all conscience and he knew the losses were far higher.

Was going to enclose a cutting from the French papers about the British training. Think Uncle Hawes would enjoy it and asks her to pass it on to Clutton-Brock.

The bravest thing she could do is be cheerful. Hoped to receive a letter from her tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had meant to answer her letters before dinner last night but had written to Mary Ann and after dinner he was very tired. Mary Ann had asked when he was likely to be back. They thought it would be six months after an armistice was called. This was silly as quite a large number would be gradually released as soon as an armistice was fixed and before general demobilisation. It was uncertain as they they didn’t know what reply the A. C. would make to Fletcher’s application [to release him early as he was a school master]. Would need to consider the situation regarding the supply of coal over the winter. Couldn’t turn the O’Malleys out of the Holt or themselves into the cold so they might have to live at Westbrook for 10 weeks.

Was sorry she wasn’t able to see the desired exponent of Montessori but she had been successful in getting the apparatus.

Glad his letters were arriving more regularly. Had she received the one in which he asked for a plane and a chisel? If not then she needn’t bother about it.

Liked what she said about Will and Ka who were a lovely couple. It would be a joy to knot up friendships after the war. They would have a sense of wonderful freedom from a depressing load after the war. He wrote to David that he felt that the sum of all the springs was bursting upon them. The only jar to their happiness would be his personal ambitions and she would have to help him keep them in order.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 7 1916'

Comments on the contents of her letters in which she referenced his remarks on ordering the Shakespeare book and his views on heaven and hell. He had received letters from Ursula, Benson, and David. Had been into Corbie to buy flour for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Ripon on Sunday

He was currently sitting at a large open sash window on the first floor of a Georgian house looking out over a square in Ripon which was pleasant and quiet. This was very different to the previous day as there were 40-50,000 troops stationed in the neighbourhood and the street seemed a scene of barbaric turmoil after the quiet of the mountains. It had rained so they had been unable to go to the surrounding countryside as planned. Trafford was supposed to have arrived with a sidecar and he [Mallory] brought a bike from Birkenhead. However, Trafford had not arrived in Ripon and the soldiers had taken all the bikes in the town so their mobility was limited. They had a huge pile of luggage but no power of mobility. He hoped they could find a place to stay in the country until Wednesday when his father had to leave him.

Trafford had obtained his father’s consent to his marriage and had gone to London to make arrangements, but they had received no wire from him. All the troops that had been in the cathedral had now left and were marching in columns in the square and he couldn’t work out how they didn’t run into each other. He had enjoyed his time in Wales and had left it with many regrets.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 8'

Another officer had arrived. The weather was very hot. Glen hadn’t returned yet and his recovery would be slower than previously thought. There was a scarcity of papers and he hadn’t heard much of what was going on in the war elsewhere. Was due to visit the Field Cashier and hoped to get French papers.

They were settling in quite happily. Violent bombardment last night but he didn’t know the results. Believed something important was going on where the French were but didn’t know which side was attacking. Had read Keats to soothe himself to sleep. Asks what she was doing and wishes he could bathe in a cool river. Bike punctured so had to walk. Came back with a bunch of flowers.
Disturbing news about lack of information about Kut prisoners. Comments on a letter from Mr Allen. Comments on Ruth’s letter and why people read something which is not for enjoyment.

He was in the dug out with Bell who was on the top bunk. They were idle and enjoying the sunshine. His wits were too dull to write a longer letter. Asks for news of the garden at the Holt.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 8 1916'

Yesterday he was in Amiens with Wood. He had fixed up the contract for pork and sausages for Xmas. Had dined and played Bridge with the neighbouring H.A.G. headquarters.

Dud day as far as the observation post was concerned as it was raining this morning and impossible to see more than 400 yards all day. He and four men had occupied the half way house and he had spent the time reading Rob Roy [by Walter Scott]. They chatted but weren’t a particularly interesting party. About six hours with no employment.

Had a good letter from her in response to his about the postponement of leave and she was very brave. It may come quicker than he had thought. The Romanian news was so disgusting that he reused to make any comments.

He was feeling better after his feverish cold. Asked for more details about her religious society.

[Letter continues later] - He had just been playing race demons with Lithgow and he describes the game.

Had received letters from her, Mrs Brock, Ursula, and Avie. Wishes Avie would go and stay at Westbrook. Was sorry to hear that the Headmaster [of Charterhouse] was unwell.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford on his was back from Paris. He had completed his purchases of books and was on the way to the library when he went back to look at a picture in a shop he had seen the day before. The artist arrived while he was still in the shop. He was a young man injured in the leg during the war and he arranged to go and visit his studio. Describes the painting and whether they should buy it. Asked the artist to paint Clare if were to come to England.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from ‘Kampa Dzong’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Description
Dr Kellas had been buried. Raeburn was declared unfit and had returned to Sikkim and so there was no-one left with experience of climbing in the Himalayas. Describes Bullock, Wheeler and Herron and outlines their plans. Talks about the food they eat. Describes his first view of Everest from 100 miles away.

Detailed Summary
Dr Kellas had been buried in sight of the three great peaks he had climbed Pahonri [Pauhunri], Kinchenjan [Kinchenjhau] and Chomiomo [Chomo Yummo]. Raeburn had been pronounced unfit to proceed and Wollaston had taken him to a place in Sikkim to recover. Wollaston had then returned to reach Tinki Dzong. This was a disaster as they were are now left without anyone who had experience in the Himalayas. Morshead had limited experience and Mallory had criticisms of Raeburn. They planned to see the N.E. side of Everest and hoped to see the N.W. side to solve a big problem of topography. He was still hopeful of attacking Everest that year with Bullock and Morshead, but that goal seemed a very long way off. Evaluates Bullock, Wheeler, and Herron. Kampa Dzong had been pleasant change. They had supplemented their food with sheep, gazelle, gammon, goose, fish, and half-cooked vegetables. Hoped to find eggs at their high elevation of about 15,000 ft.

He was feeling extraordinarily fit and was much moved by the prospect of a nearer approach to Everest. He describes his first view of the mountain from 100 miles away, ‘It is colossal even at this distance - a great blunty pointed snow peak…with a much steeper north face than people have made out’. He thinks that the N.W. side of the mountain, facing the Arun river, up which the monsoon cloud came had the bigger snowfall. He describes the landscape of the Arun valley and that he was sorry they wouldn’t see the east side of the mountain.

[Letter continues later] - It had been a jolly day. He now had a better mule after giving his up to Raeburn. He and Bullock were surveying the country.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory written from onboard ship on Anchor Line, T.M.S. California letter headed paper.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

We shall be at Port Said tomorrow and its time I were writing to you again. It is being a voyage particularly without incident, as we shall land only once, for a short time, before reaching Bombay. But one unforgettable thing has happened – the approach to Gibraltar. I was fortunate enough to wake before sunrise and went on deck. We were steaming due East and straight ahead was the orange glow streaming over the sky. Towards the centre of it the long dim lines of land on either converged and left a gap – quite a small gap between little lumps of land, for the straits were 20 miles away or more. We were aiming straight for this little hole in the skyline where the light was brightest, and I had to most irresistible feeling of a romantic world; we had only to pop through the hole like Alice through the garden door to reach a new scene or a whole kingdom of adventures.

The other important thing that has happened to me is that I have in some way strained my left hip in the gymnasium about 5 days ago. It gave me considerable pain for two days like sciatica, a pain in some important nerve all down the leg – the sciatic nerve I understand is in the back of the leg and this one was in the side. The leg is much better, though not yet well. I ran ten times round the deck this morning; but that doesn’t prove as much as you might think, because it is rather the lifting movements that are weak. However I have a fortnight, nearly, to Darjeeling and I’ve little doubt the hip will be all right by then.

I have finished reading Maurois’ Ariel [Andre Maurois’ Life of Shelly or Ariel] with much interest. I knew the early life in Hogg and the last scenes in Trelawney’s Recollections which I think you have read, a charming book, but I have never before read a connected account of the whole life. Shelley certainly had an extraordinary gift of love, and love of a very pure and sublimated kind. Maurois makes out that he had lost his love for Mary Shelley and was in love with Anne Williams at the end. But he shows at the same time that his relations with Mary remained of a very tender sort and he was very thoughtful on her behalf, and as they lived in the same house with Williams, it is a little difficult to make out that he preferred Anne to Mary. It is an interesting story because in so far as Shelley’s relations with Mary were impaired it was simply by the friction of everyday life; he was the most unselfish of men but the glamour of Mary wore off a bit when he saw her as a housewife. She certainly had little enough of his society when he was making poems; but I’m inclined to think that she had Shelley all the time. It might interest you sometime to read the book which is translated into English (my copy is in French); or you might get Dowden’s Life from the London Library [The Life of Percy Bysche Shelley by Edward Dowden].

I have many thoughts of you dearest one, and I think reading Shelley’s life had made me think about you very particularly. I fear I don’t make you very happy. Life has too often been a burden to you lately and it is horrid when we don’t get more time and talk together. Of course we have both had too much to do and I have hated thinking that it must fall upon you to do the car for instance which has often been an unpleasant grind, when you might otherwise have been painting china, or one thing or another more profitable to your soul. Somehow or another we must contrive to manage differently; to have some first charge upon available time for our life together. What with a car and a stove and our new house altogether we seem to have got terribly stuck with material considerations and how often we talk of nothing but what has to be done to the ball rolling as though it were so much business to be transacted! I think we might get that better perhaps by resolving together to value the perfection of everyday home life and trying to feel that little arrangements belong to our ideals. There is a satisfaction if not enjoyment to be got from just arranging things well, and certainly in doing things themselves unpleasant or indifferent provided the end in view is sufficiently present to the mind.

I don’t mind in the least seeing you as a housewife; I like it and I like the way you carry it through and I like the pleasant relationships which you make about you. But I don’t want you materialised by housewifery – you have to control the business and not allow it to control you – as indeed you do; but keep a watch on yourself.

I much hope you somehow find time for painting china this summer dear one, it is so good for you and makes you so nice. Don’t think you must spend hours of time knitting knicker for John etc; if that must be thought of from a money point of view you could probably sell the china for the extra money you would pay for getting a large part of such work done for you or by buying things ready made; and anyway put the spiritual sort of thing first. You’ll be occupied I know a great deal in the garden. I think by the by you should get a roller before long – and how would it be to get a boy to come and roll every Sat. afternoon – or some such scheme?

Dear love it makes me happy to be writing to you and thinking of you now. It won’t be so very long after you get this before you go away from Cambridge. I do hope you will have a good change – do what you like, enjoy yourself, and be free from worries – why shouldn’t you spend a few days in London and see plenty of people, it would be good for you.
I shall hear in your first letter how you enjoyed the Greek Play and whether Northfield has begun building the walls. How I wish I could hear from you at Port Said tomorrow.

I have told you almost nothing about my activities on board or about my companions. I read and write and play a certain amount of deck tennis; and about every other evening Bridge. We have got up an oxygen apparatus from the baggage room and have been playing about with it. Irvine finds fault with it, but if it is all sound and doesn’t leak in spite of the desperate haste with which it was put together it should do well enough – I’m bound to say I think it a big if.

Things have got to the tiresome stage when people I have never spoken come up to me and begin asking questions about the expedition – some of course have heard me lecture – or ask leave to take my photo – consequently I tend to be unsociable at one extremity of or other of the boat, where one can usually get away from the crowd.

The weather has been perfect though hardly warm enough except the first day in the Mediterranean. I can’t believe it will be hot even in the Red Sea but I suppose it will.

It was very jolly seeing the Sierra Nevada again and also a long stretch of the African mountains, though Mt. Atlas didn’t clear.
I’m awfully bad about writing odds and ends of new about life round me aren’t I. I suppose I ought to tell you about deck competitions; but they don’t interest me and I entered for none except – Irvine it was, persuaded me to go in for a spoon and potato race in which I had a brilliant success and was only knocked out in the final where one potato was really impossible.

I long for some news of the great world; we hear a few snippets of wireless – this morning I learned that a Frenchman murdered his aunt; I suppose she was impossible.

Well my darling Ruth, I will take leave of you. With great love from your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 8 1916'

Lithgow had gone on special leave. Bell was in command and he was 2nd which meant they got to work together. The car was out of action for two weeks. Weather was fine and the wind had changed so hoped they would be spared the deluge for a day or two. His dugout leaked the day before yesterday. Thought he could take measures to prevent that.

Had received letters from her and Mrs Fletcher. The Headmaster hoped to be back at Charterhouse in September. She talked about the unfortunate interest in Robert’s relationship with Johnstone whose mother had found some affectionate letters and refused to allow Robert to see him.

Comments on the questions in her letters - the enclosure from Mr Greig’s solicitors and whether he needed a second table cloth.

Earl had come to lunch. They were in agreement about the war. He would like to cut the Germans’ communications with Turkey before they finished but that shouldn’t delay efforts to obtain terms. Discusses Germany’s move into Poland, French success being due to a mistake by the Germans rather than a weakening of the line, Italy’s advance, and that Germany were paying in the west for her efforts in the east.

Hopes Violet gets better from her toothache quickly.

[Postscript] - asks her to send any copies of his letters which mention the life of the battery as he had to make a war diary - a tiresome job.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He was feeling lazy tonight and hated himself for it. He seldom went to bed before midnight but was always first to breakfast which they never had before 9 am. They were having very bad weather which was rather depressing. Went to Arras that morning with Knibbs to shop for the mess. The cathedral had been used as an observation post and suffered damage.

Had received three letters from her and the curtain which he would hang tomorrow and it would be admired. He was happy to have the bill. They were cosy and had two rugs of the thinnest and meagrest description which served to cover the worst of the floor near the fireplace.

They seemed in agreement about returning to the Holt. He wasn’t tiring of Montessori, it was interesting that she was learning all about it. To answer her question about furniture they had apart from the table, they had three armchairs and the low deep shelves. It wasn’t a big apartment. He had been wondering about the Alpine Journal and was glad she had sent it but it hadn’t arrived yet. They ought to get advice about a piano and had better get a second hand one to start with, though even that would be expensive.

Glad he had been mostly right about the end of the war. Had seen some quotes from the Times which were idiotic. The Manchester Guardian had been quite good. A recent article upbraided people for not wanting peace now it was in sight and it had been very angry with the armistice terms to Turkey for not insisting on occupying Armenia for the sake of the Armenians. It drew attention to the Austrian situation fairly early. He hadn’t really thought about the issue of punishing individual Germans. It wasn’t worth fighting a day longer for that. What crime compares with the original one of starting the war for which the whole country was responsible and would be punished. Where would you draw the line when punishing individuals who would argue they were following orders?

9th - A lovely frosty, sunny morning. Would possibly go searching for Geoffrey Keynes who was about 20 miles from there. The car would have to get beer for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 8 1916'

Had orders to go to the observation post at daybreak but at 4am was told it wasn’t worth it as the stunt was almost early. Thinks the infantry must have gone over very early and done well as he understood they had taken Le Sars.

Had an idle day. Wrote to Raymond as he had seen his name in the lists yesterday. Also wrote to Mr Fletcher for Cathusian news. Had a game of chess with Dunbar, been for a walk, and developed his ideas for his book. Bell had played his flute. Describes relations between other officers - Bell, Casey, Dunbar, and Lithgow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 9 1917'

Still hadn't found the secret code book.

The 1st, 3rd and 5th armies had achieved their first objective and the next act in the war was to begin. He could only watch on and would rather be in the thick of it. It seemed all the world depended on the next few days or weeks.

He was sitting in a tent waiting for Hutchinson to return from dining with the other half of the battery. It was a cold night. They needed fine weather for real success. Had spent two days nursing his ankle and he hated enforced inactivity.

Had heard more about the offensive and he details numbers of guns and prisoners captured.

Parcel of clothes had arrived with the other mug and six refills. The only thing he wanted now was more toothpaste.

He had found three men drunk when they should have been on duty and he would have to give evidence to the Colonel. Two would be in the soup as it was a very serious offence. He disliked the whole business very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Castlestead, Pateley Bridge on Monday

They had left Ripon and were in Nidderdale staying in a railway carriage in the gardens of a country house which were used as an overflow for guests from the main house. He and his father had been cycling in the countryside around Ripon. His father often amused him and often shocked him by saying outrageous things but he never talked about family matters. He was a terrible snob.

He regrets not having seen Fountains Abbey again and but hoped to stay a couple of extra days after his father had left so that he could visit it along with Bolton Abbey and Skipton Castle. Trafford would probably get married on 19th and he would tell her the full story later. He was sitting near lots of wild raspberries which reminded him of Exmoor and says lots of little things remind him of Devonshire.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes his and Bullock's reconnaisance. Initial misunderstanding about he two Chomolingas. Describes troubles with rations, taking photographs and the landscape and flowers.

Detailed Summary
There would be reports in The Times about the expedition which had been extraordinarily exciting and interesting in the last week. Their idea was to follow a great valley north of Everest where they saw the pass of their desire between Everest and the first peak to the North, but after three days travelling in the clouds they found they were cut off from the north col by an impassable barrier. They were disappointed. They were retracing their steps and this misadventure was part of the reconnaissance.

Describes their first day’s march, getting rations at a village, and being told by locals that the way to Chomolungma [Tibetan name for Everest] was to the left but they soon made disconcerting observations that they were not going the correct way. On the second days march they went up 4,000 ft seeing lovely flowers, two pretty lakes and grazing ground for yaks.

Then headed south west but from Kharta their direction should have been due west. Their local guide told them there were two Chomolungas, they guessed the other was Makalu. Explained they wanted to go to the one which was to the right. On the following morning's march there was a steep valley bed, a stream, a rickety bridge, lovely meadows, the end of a glacier, and a steep hillside running up to a tremendous cliff. They were following a valley from Makalu to Everest.

Reports on rain, Tibetan tents, and feeling baffled as they wanted to be to the north of the east or north east ridge. There was another valley running east and west ending in the col between Everest and the North Peak.

They saw the great east face of Everest and assessed that all the lower slopes were impossible from a climber’s point of view. Describes the east ridge and landscape. The following day they pushed on toward an advance camp to about 18,000 ft in poor weather.

Woke on 7 August to a cloudless starry sky. Describes the colours of the mountains. The whole range of peaks far exceeded any mountain scenery that he ever saw before.

He waited to take photos at sunrise and if they didn't come out well he would cry. Their objective was to get up a pass and a big glacier that blocked their view to the north col. Had a hurried breakfast, took more photographs and pushed toward the third peak from the east ridge of Everest.

They could see clearly that Everest joined other peaks and wanted to see more. Bullock thought the next section would prove impossible and it was stiff work. Whilst the party lay down and slept he took photographs and examined the north peak. As the desired view was still hidden he took two volunteers to the top with him. It was only a matter of 500 ft, but the snow was very deep and lying at a terribly steep angle and they had a struggle. They got to the summit of that peak and he could see a high snow cwm under the north east face of Everest. The next objective was to find the outlet.

The next day’s march would take them through an undiscovered country. For the first time he was not feeling perfectly well. The glands of his throat and most of the muscles were affected but that could be nothing to do with the exertions of climbing.

There had been trouble about the porters' rations. Wollaston and Morshead were at Kharta and Wheeler was not expected for another fortnight. Describes the flowers he had recently seen and thought they might be a new discovery. Was disappointed when Howard-Bury told him Wollaston had made an earlier discovery.

Was sorry he couldn't share his photographs with her. The bad ones were hardly worth sending and Howard-Bury had sent some photos home to the Royal Geographical Society. Suggests she find a way of seeing them there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Dec 9 1916'

Didn’t want to say anything about leave again as she would be disappointed if it wasn’t true but he hoped his leave would be very soon. He was due to be at the observation post again tomorrow. The weather was more disagreeable than he could imagine and he hadn’t seen the sun for 20 days.

He hopes there wouldn't be any delay to his leave this time. [There wasn’t and he was home a few days later returning to France on Boxing Day].

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford and had been taken up in a Bristol by one of the pilots. Describes the stuns they did in the plane. Refused to let the pilot loop the loop because he wasn’t strapped in and the pilot had a reckless face.

Pemberton had been fetched from near Calais and was going to stay for some days.

Still no news about his return. It had been four weeks since his application had gone in and he was getting anxious.

Had received a letter from Brother Giles who had suffered an enteric fever [typhoid fever] and maleria and was now at the base with views of Kenia [Kenya] and Kilimanjaro. She could pass this on to Allen and Hoenni if she saw them. The Hoennis would be very glad to see her.

He was glad to be with his brother officers again and the sweet air was very pleasant after Paris. He had received a note from David after his visit to Westbrook who said she was ravishingly beautiful.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 9 1917'

The Colonel had visited the previous day and at his instigation brought a bottle of whisky with him which was well received by the French.

There had been a disquieting break before he could continue the letter but he couldn't give details except that the French batteries had been badly bombarded. He was mainly concerned with counter battery work.

He had walked a short distance to see an 'Archie' battery and found Buttonshaw who hadn't liked the O. C. in the 42 Battery and so had got out. Hoped they would do some good firing as the French weren't impressed with the English work so far.

He had started keeping a literary notebook in which to work out his ideas.

He hadn't written to anyone but her since he returned from leave. Asks if she had heard from Mary as he had received a letter from Ralph saying she was unwell. Asks how Doris Mallory was and if she had heard from her or Trafford who he was concerned for until he had got busy and then he had forgotten about him.

He liked the quiet exile as long as it remained quiet.

10th Feb - the Colonel had sounded happy on the telephone and he was going to visit the French aviation for him. He was glad of an outing. There was nothing much to do between lunch and dinner and they hadn't been receiving many papers which he wanted to read to see the opinion of the neutrals. He wanted America to join the war to damage German morale.

He wasn't in the mood to write to her but wanted to sit and talk to her and see her reaction to things. He was sitting in his white chamber which was rapidly becoming brown and black because of the stove. He had chill blanes on his right foot.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’95 Arlington Avenue Westmount, P.Q.’ [Letterhead] [‘i.e.at the Basil Williams Montreal’ is written in Mallory’s hand]

Brief Summary
Reports on recent lecture in New York, complains of his lectures being reported as Anti-Prohibition propaganda, and describes social visits with friends in New York and Canada.

Detailed Summary
He was delighted to be in Montreal with friends including Mrs Williams, who had visited the Holt with Evelyn Clutton-Brock whilst he was away on the 1921 expedition. His fortunes had changed from hateful N.Y. His first lecture in New York had not been encouraging with technical difficulties caused by a 2nd rate operator and the hall full theatre had been depressing. However, all the members of the American Alpine Club who had attended the dinner were in the audience and they went away saying nice things. Afterwards they had gone to a hotel to eat ices which was a pleasant little party consisting of the Wethams, Mrs Colden Sanderson, Frisken, Poel and an actress friend of his.

It was important for his lectures to have good press but when he read the papers at breakfast there was almost nothing. A New York Times had 1/3rd of a column but it was turned into Anti-Prohibition propaganda. The Tribune gave a very good and sympathetic report.

He had lectured at a Country Club outside the city which was a dull affair before catching a train to Montreal. Had a good walk up the mountain with a wonderful view of the southern branch of St Lawrence and Montreal. The countryside was all snow and ice and it had been -10 when he had arrived. The Canadians didn’t like the cold as too many days in t took it out of one.

His next lecture was in Detroit (Michigan) but Toronto fell through. Keedick’s business was very badly run. He planned to spend the weekend with a friend, Monsieur Williams, whom he had known and liked at Charterhouse at a winter sports place. He planned to learn to ski from John Williams who was aged aged 16 and thought him a promising pupil on skis. He said the difficulty was to learn to stop, and until one had you just had to fall down.

He was much more cheerful and put it down to staying there with delightful people instead of by himself in a hotel. He missed her and found it much harder being without her there than in India.

His lecture there had gone very well and the audience were very good natured and amused.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'On the road'

Thinks war is moving on and it was time for them to attack. The French had lost Vaux and must be hard pressed. Was no certainty among the French up there that Verdun would be held, nor any opinions about the war just patience. He admired the attitude of French women. Had been talking to the farmer’s wife where he had been billeted. Her husband was near Verdun but she faced the facts with calm reason and took an intelligent interest in the war. They couldn’t let France or Russia bear all the losses. Was quite hoping to take part in an attack. They were travelling easily. He had been arranging for the men to have a hot bath, visiting the town mayor, and getting money from the field cashier. Was elated at the capture of 51,000 Austrians. Good for the Russians to deliver a smashing blow like that.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Trenkye [Tinki] Dzong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Responds to contents in her letters from 6-10 May mentioning the Hodges, Clare, Bridget’s son, Mary Ann and Stephen. He was feeling happier. He had been nailing the porter's boots. He had planned a two day expedition with Bullock to climb up to about 20,000 ft and see the N. E. face of Everest and had avoided telling Howard-Bury. Morshead had now joined the group. Describes a hill walk and a fragrant flower which he enclosed in the letter hoping it still had some of its scent.

He planned to take photos of the mountain range as they were now in a country which no European had previously visited. The rest of the party were quite cheerful. The food provisions were not proving expensive. Tells her not to be hopeless about the expedition as they may yet do very well. He would think of her on her birthday tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory describing the Avalanche in which 7 porters were killed.

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth, I will answer what I imagine to be your first thought - it was a wonderful escape for me & we may indeed be thankful for that together. Dear love when I think what your grief would have been I humbly thank God I am alive.

/ It’s difficult to get it all straight in my mind. The consequences of my mistake are so terrible; it seems almost impossible to believe that it has happened for ever & that I can do nothing to make good. There is no obligation I have so much wanted to honour as that of taking care of these men; they are children where mountain dangers are concerned & they do so much for us; and now through my fault seven of them have been killed. I must try to tell you how the accident happened. But remember dearest one, not that I can imagine for a moment you would be harsh in your judgement that though I may have been mistaken I was neither reckless about the whole party nor careless about the coolies in particular.

When we started from the Base Camp on June 3 the clouds were thickening & it was evident that very soon the monsoon would be upon us; but none can say how soon in such circumstances the monsoon will make climbing impossible. I walked up half despondently with Finch to No 1 Camp; he was clearly quite unfit & could barely reach the camp. Next morning he went back to the Base leaving Somervell & me for the high climbing with Wakefield and Crawford to be back us up.

During the night of the 3rd snow fell heavily & continued on the 4th. We spent a cold day in the poor shelter at Camp 1, a little hut with walls about 3 ft 6 in high built of the stones that lay about there & roofed with the outer fly of Whymper tent. The white snow dust blew in through the chink & one wondered naturally, Isn’t it mere foolishness to be attempting Everest now that the snow has come? It was clear that if we were to give up the attempt at once no one would have a word to say against our decision. But it seemed to me too early to turn back & too easy - we should not be satisfied afterwards. It would not be unreasonable to expect a spell of fair weather after the first snow as there was last year; this might give us our chance at last, a calm day in the balance between the prevailing west wind & the south east monsoon current. And if we were to fail how much better I thought to be turned back by a definite danger or difficulty on the mountain itself.

On the 5th will too [many crossed through] much cloud still hanging about the glacier we went up in one long march to Camp 3 - a wet walk in the melting snow & with some snow falling. At the camp not less than a foot of snow covered everything. The tents which had been struck but not packed up contained a mixture of ice, snow, & water; more than one was badly rent in putting it up. The prospects were not very hopeful.

There was no question of doing anything on the 6th, the best we asked for was a warm day’s rest. We had a clear day of brilliant sunshine, the warmest by far that any of us remembered at camp 3. The snow solidified with amazing rapidity; the rocks began to appear about our camp; and though the side of Everest facing us looked cold & white we had the satisfaction of observing during the greater part of the day a cloud of snow blown from the North Ridge. It would not be long at that rate before it was fit to climb.
The heavy snow of the 4th & 5th affected our plans in two ways. As we should have to expect heavier work high up we should have hardly a chance of reaching the top without oxygen, & in spite of Finch’s absence with his expert knowledge we decided to carry up ten cylinders with the two apparatus used by Finch and G. Bruce to our old camp established on the first attempt at 25,000 ft; so far we should go without oxygen; in taking up the camp (one of the 2 Mummery tents & the sleeping sacks) another 1000 ft we might find it advisable to use each one cylinder; in any case we should have 4 cylinders each to carry on with us next day.

Our chief anxiety was to provide for the safety of the [‘coolies’ crossed out] porters. We hoped the conditions might be good enough to send them down by themselves to the North Col; & it was arranged that Crawford should meet them at the foot of the ridge to conduct them properly roped over the crevasses to Camp 4; there they would remain until we came back from the higher camp & all would go down together. Crawford was also to arrange for the conduct of certain superfluous porters who were to come up to Camp 4 but not stay there across the steep slope below the camp, the one place which in the new conditions might prove dangerous. With these plans we thought we might move up from Camp IV on the 4th day of fine weather should the weather hold, & still bring down the party safely whatever the monsoon might do. A change of weather was to be feared sooner or later, but we were confident we could descend the North Ridge from our high camp in bad weather if necessary, & three of us, or if Wakefield came up, four, would then be available to shepherd the coolies down from the North Col.

But the North Col has first to be reached. With the new snow to contend with we should have hard work; perhaps it would take us more than one day; the steep final slope might be dangerous; we should perhaps find it prudent to leave our loads below it & come up easily enough in our frozen tracks another day.
We set out from Camp 3, Somervell Crawford, & I with 14 porters at 8 a.m. on the 7th. A party including four of the strongest porters were selected to lead the way over the glacier. They did splendid work trudging the snow with loads on their backs; but it took us two hours to the foot of the great snow wall & it was 10.15 a.m. when Somervell, I, one porter, & Crawford, roped up in that order, began the ascent. We found no traces at first of our previous tracks, & were soon crossing a steep ice slope covered with snow. It was remarkable that the snow adhered so well to this slope, where we had found bare ice before, that we were able to get up without cutting steps. In this harmless place we had tested the snow & were more than satisfied.
Higher up the angle eases off & we had formally walked up at comparatively gently angels in the old snow until it was necessary to cross the final step slope below Camp 4.

Now we had to content with snow up to our knees. Crawford relieved Somervell & then I took a turn. About 1.30 p.m. I halted & the porters following in three parties came up with us. Somervell who was the least tired among us now went ahead continuing in our old line & still on gentle slopes about 200 ft below some blocks of fallen ice which mark the final traverse to the left over steeper ground. I was following up in the steps last on our rope of four when at 1.50, I heard a noise not unlike an explosion of untamped gunpowder. I had never before been [knew crossed out] near an avalanche of snow: but I knew the meaning of that noise as though I were accustomed to hear it every day. In a moment I observed the snow’s surface broken only a few yards away to the right & instinctively moved in that direction. And then I was moving downward. Somehow I managed to turn out from the slope so as to avoid being pushed headlong & backwards down it. For the briefest moment my chances seemed good as I went quietly sliding down, with the snow, Then the rope at my waist tightened & held me back. A wave of snow came over me. I supposed that the matter was settled. However I thrust out my arms to keep them above the snow & at the same time tried to raise by back, with the result that when after a few seconds the motion stopped I felt little pressure from the snow & found myself on the surface.
The rope was still tight about my waist & I imagined that the porter tied on next one must be deeply buried; but he quickly emerged near me no worse off than myself. Somervell & Crawford too were quite close to me & soon extricated themselves, apparently their experiences were much the same as mine. And where were the [rest crossed through] porters, we asked? Looking down over the broken snow we saw one group some distance below us. Presumably the rest must be buried somewhere between us & them. No sign of them appeared; and those we saw turned out to be the group who had been immediately behind us. Somehow they must have been caught in a more rapid stream & carried down a hundred feet further than us. They pointed below them; the others were down there.

It became only too plain as we hurried down that the men we saw were standing only a little way above a formidable drop. The others had been carried over. We found the ice cliff to be from 40 ft to 60 ft high, the crevasse below it was filled up with the avalanche snow & these signs enough to show us that the two missing parties of four & five were buried under it. From the first we entertained little hope of saving them. The fall alone must have killed the majority, & such proved to be the case as we dug out the bodies. Two men were rescued alive & were subsequently found to have sustained no severe injuries; the remaining seven lost their lives /.

There is the narrative - the bare facts, on separate sheets for your convenience - not my letter to you but a more impersonal account explaining our plans & their fatal conclusion. I hope it will suffice to let you understand what we were about. You may read between the lines how anxious I was about the venture. S. [Somervell] & I knew enough about Mount Everest not to treat so formidable a mountain contemptuously. But it was not a desperate game, I thought, with the plans we made. Perhaps with the habit of dealing with certain kinds of danger one becomes accustomed to measuring some that are best left unmeasured & untried. But in the end I come back to my ignorance; one generalises from too few observations & what a lifetime it requires to know all about it! I suppose if we had known a little more about conditions of snow here we should not have tried those slopes – [but crossed through] and not knowing we supposed too much from the only experience we had. The three of us were deceived; there wasn’t an inkling of danger among us. //

Writes again on ‘June 14’ [one week after avalanche] – In the interval since I began writing we have packed up our traps and are on our way down - actually I am sitting in a sheltered nook above that little patch of vegetation by the stream above Chobu [village], & it is raining softly which many account for some curious mark on the paper. I don’t want you to think dearest that I am in perpetual gloom over the accident. One has to wear a cheerful face & be sociable in a company such as we are. But my mind does go back very often to the terrible consequences of our attempt with great sadness.

I think it would be a good thing to send a copy of my narrative to a few climbing friends. Claude, to show to his climbing party, David & Herbert Reade. It won’t be of great interest to people who aren’t climbers I should suppose, but one might be circulated to my family too if you think they would like it. I have written to my father & to Geoffrey Young, Younghusband (very briefly) & Frank Fletcher. Please also send the account to Farrar asking him to read it and send it back to you (I don’t much want it to become an official document in the A.C., or at least not yet). And in circulating the narrative you will quote my remarks on p. 7 between marks //.

I don’t know whether you will have got the hang of our plans & arrangements. The reason for going to Kharta is really that the General wants to see that part of the country; the excuse that we want to collect flowers & birds & beasts. I had the chance of going back straight from here, but the chance of seeing the early flowers over the other side was too good to be missed & I’m still hoping to get back after a week or ten days there by a short cut through the corner of Nepal which would be a very interesting journey though extremely wet & should land me in Darjeeling before the middle of July. However that depends much on transport arrangements & I want to get someone to come with me who understands these lingos- perhaps Norton. My possible dates for leaving Bombay are 22nd, 29th July and 1st and 5th of Aug. I shall avoid the 29th if possible as it is a small boat P&O & I would sooner take the Trieste boat on the 1st & come overland. The 22nd is too early in all probability & the 5th (also P&O) is the best boat they have which is a consideration when meeting the monsoon. If I come by P&O I shall probably come to London; anyway I’ll wire giving simply a date (i.e. that of leaving Bombay) and write or wire again from Marseilles or Venice. I’ve been thinking much since your last letter dated April 22 etc. what we would like best to do in early autumn. PyP [Pen-y-Pass] is always attractive & it would be a very pleasant little party; I think we must wait to fix that if we feel like it. Prima facie I’m more in favour of breaking new ground & Richmond in early September might be perfect if Mill [Ruth's sister Mildred?] wants us. I suppose Bob has a job at Catterick; lucky man; he might teach me to fish in those dale streams. I’ve always wanted to go to Richmond.
I’m glad you like the book on botany & find it helpful; we shall be too late to make much use of it together this year, but it’s a thing we must do together sometime – I mean to learn much more about flowers for our children’s sake if for no other reason. But there is another reason; - there is a little shrub in front of me now most prettily blooming with a pink flower, not unlike a rather stiff & thorny rosemary, only the flower is more chartered - which I should much like to introduce into our garden but I can’t tell it’s species.

We are in much reduced company now - Strutt, Longstaff, Finch, & Morshead went off to Darjeeling retracing our steps, about a week ago, & Norton, G. Bruce to Kharta, where we shall rejoin them. I’m much distressed about Morshead’s hands. I fear he’s certain to lose at least the tips (i.e. 1st joints) of 3 fingers on the right hand; & he had a good deal of pain too. G.B. [G. Bruce] writes that his toes are troublesome, but no great harm was done there, & Norton, who was quite knocked out by our climb & a dispirited man after it he has now discovered that what he thought were bruises in the soles of his feet are really frostbite & bad enough to prevent him walking seriously. My finger has almost recovered except for a black nail, so I got off very lightly.
I must finish this off for a mail which is to go off at once. Please give my love to your Father & Marby [written up the side margin:] and make the understand as far as possible about the accident. Many hugs and kisses to the children and endless love to you dearest one. Your Loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 9 1917'

Was spending two days at the observation post where it had snowed and describes his work and a small attack they made which the Germans didn’t respond to.

He had a wakeful night, not because he was cold as he had his sleeping bag, but because he wanted the signallers to go out on the line at first light and he was worried they wouldn’t wake in time. He got up before sunrise and it was a very pretty morning.

A party had just arrived with rations, water, 2 miles of wire, which they would have to lay tonight, and a letter from her. He agrees about ‘Diana’ which was not one of his best and tiresomely clever. His servant was with him although he had little to do except wash up his plate and frying pan as he didn’t wash and shave up there and he slept in this clothes. He was glad he was there though.

Wished she was there but she might complain of cold feet and they would rub each others feet. He was feeling very cheerful and full of energy which was a good thing as he expected a very dark, cold night ahead.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, ‘Approaching Calcutta'

Brief Summary
Would think of her on her birthday. Had sent a parcel including beads, lace collars for the children and a seed necklace. Had spend 48 hours with the Vernon's in Madras. Describes first impressions of life in India. No-one had met him at Calcutta. Made arrangements to travel to Darjeeling that evening to meet up wit the rest of the party (except Dr Kellas).

Detailed Summary
Hopes the letter would reach Ruth in time for her birthday and would think of her on that day. He had sent a parcel from Colombo and he wants her to keep what she’d like but wasn't sure whether she would like the beads. He had sent three lace collars for the children and a seed necklace for Beridge. The other object in the parcel was a garland presented by some of the natives to Mrs Vernon which he thought Franz might have.

They had spent 48 hrs in Madras where he stayed with the Vernons. It had been a great comfort to get ashore [encloses a photo of the house]. Describes the house in detail which was typical of the better houses. He was delighted by his first sight of Indian life, which he intended describing in his journal. Madras was flat like a garden and it was very hot. He hadn’t been feeling fully well but now was feeling quite fit again. He had walked by himself through the native quarters of Madras which had been thrilling. They were within eight miles of Calcutta and so should be well up the river tonight and at their place of dis-embarkment in the morning.

The voyage had been detestable relieved by occasional moments which he wouldn’t have missed for anything. He had done his Muller exercises that morning. He could never forget how brave, unselfish and loving she had been about the project. Asks after John and wants their children to know he often thought of them. Would it be worthwhile having the leaves from his journal typed as he feared they were difficult.

[Postscript] - Contrary to expectation no one had met him in Calcutta despite having received a letter on board ship from Howard-Bury saying arrangements had been made. He was also told that he must act independently at the same time. He contacted a survey officer and walked two miles through the docks in the heat of the day to square the customs. He was due to start for Darjeeling that evening [18 hour train ride from Calcutta to Darjeeling]. He was to stay with the Governor of Bengal but wasn't looking forward to official circles. The rest of the group were at Darjeeling except Kellas who was last heard of as having climbed a mountain on 5 April and Raeburn was anxious about him.