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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 27 1917'

Had just had an Old Carthusian turn up – a boy called Manly who was now in the Royal Flying Corps. He rather liked such meetings.

He had walked through a wood on the point of bursting into green with the honeysuckle already in leaf. Was most delighted with were the white wood anemones and yellow polyanthus. The loveliness of flowers particularly spring flowers after this year spent at war was more wonderful to him and more entertaining than ever.

Had a good day at the observation post. He made an interesting reconnaissance to a village in no man’s land and manged to get in without being seen by the enemy. Saw some wire that was in question and other things and picked a bunch of daffodils. On his way back he showed them to some infantry men and one said they were lovely and reminded him of home.

Orders had come in about firing so he must end the letter. He would think about whether it was right to keep sending parcels of food.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 27 1915' [was actually 1916]

Had a desperate hunt for the notes for the Book of Geoffrey. Thought his valet, Symons, had tidied them away but then he had found them. He should really have been attending a service and singing hymns.

Was feeling fully recovered. Had gone in the sidecar of a motorbike driven by an Irishman going very fast along some of the worst roads in the country. Had bought some things for the men in Corbie – some pretty cups and a big china teapot.
Describes the weather, countryside, and his opinion of tents including the charm of them being the way one looks upon the world through the slit.

Describes some of the A.S.C. [ammunition column] men he had met and the rather empty headed youths who said ‘Cheery Ho’ and ‘Here’s fun’ and carried handkerchiefs in the sleeves.

Had received a long, interesting and affectionate letter from Trafford who was having a good time building a tennis court. Comments on her letter and what she had said about Mrs Huxley and her attitude towards her children.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 27 1917'

Would be at Headquarters until Halifax returned on 6th. He supposed he would return to the battery then. It had got colder and colder and motor vehicles could hardly be got moving at all. They had been woken twice by big shells falling nearby ad the hasty entrance of the telephonist into their dugout.

Was sorry she sounded depressed in her last letter. Was evident she wasn’t feeling at all well.

He’d had a busy day. He was to have gone out with Glen to reconnoitre O.P.s [observation posts] but the cave came to grief before they set out. They talked over maps and Robinson gave him some jobs to do. The fire was very difficult to keep going as the wood was so wet.

Was getting on better with Robinson. He was sending of his sleeping bag which wants cleaning. Also the de la Mare books and Mr Britling. Was slightly disappointed with Peacock Pie.

Her letter gave him a most lovely pleasure. Was frightened a little in case he should let her down. He fell short of his own ideals but didn’t take himself over seriously.

Had read more of the Shepherd’s Life which was good.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Thursday July 27'

Advises her to read Mr Brock’s letter to answer her questions about the good, beautiful and true. Would love to discuss it with her. Gives brief summary of his views.

Thanks her for Sidney Cockerell’s message and was sorry to have missed his visit to Westbrook. Explains how Cockerell was received in Cambridge.

Nothing had transpired about the aeroplane work so far. Had taken his turn in the forward party. Seen firing on the German front line and a bombing attack. Had found a very safe way to get there and back but it was rather gruesome. His nerves were unaffected but his nose wasn’t. Exclaims at the pity of it when seeing the dead lying out and feels anger when corpses are inexcusably not buried.

Had received good news but wasn’t sure how good as it would depend on fighting elsewhere. Didn’t think war would be over by Xmas. Disappointed by slow progress of the Russians. The Germans were making a wonderful fight.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Camp I, Everest

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

This is going to be the scrappiest letter - a time limit for the mail has suddenly been put on and this morning when I might have been writing to you I was busy doing a communique at Norton’s request, I find it an impossible task to write that sort of thing up here. Anyway such as it is you will have read it, so that is some satisfaction.

Dear Girl, this has been a bad time altogether. I look back on tremendous efforts & exhaustion & dismal looking out of a tent door and onto a world of snow & vanishing hopes - & yet, & yet, & yet there have been a good many things to set on the other side. The party has played up wonderfully. The first visit to the North Col was a triumph for the old gang. Norton & I did the job & the cutting of course was all my part - so far as one can enjoy climbing above Camp II I enjoyed the conquest of the ice wall & crack the crux of the route, & making the steps too in the steep final 200 ft.

Odell did very useful work leading the way on from the camp to the Col; I was practically bust to the world & couldn’t have lead that half hour though I still had enough mind to direct him. We made a very bad business of the descent. It suddenly occurred to me that we ought to see what the old way down was like. Norton & I were ahead, unroped, & Odell behind in charge of a porter who had carried up a light load. We got onto ground where a practiced man can just get a long without crampons (which we hadn’t with us), chipping occasional steps in very hard snow or ice. I was all right ahead but Norton had a nasty slip & then the porter, whose knot didn’t hold so that he went down some way & was badly shaken. Meanwhile I, below, finding the best way down had walked into an obvious crevasse; by some miscalculation I had thought I had prodded the snow with which it was choked & where I hoped we could walk instead of cutting steps at the side of it - all the result of mere exhaustion no doubt - but the snow gave way & in I went with the snow tumbling all around me, down luckily only about 10 feet before I fetched up half-blind & breathless to find myself most precariously supported only by my ice axe somehow caught across the crevasse & still held in my right hand - & below was a very unpleasant black hole. I had some nasty moments before I got comfortably wedged & began to yell for help up through the round hole I had come through where the blue sky showed – this because I was afraid any operations to extricate myself would bring down a lot more snow & perhaps precipitate me into the bargain. However I soon grew tired of shouting – they hadn’t seen me from above - & bringing the snow down a little at a time I made a hole out towards the side (the crevasse ran down a slope) after some climbing, & so extricated myself - but was then on the wrong side of the crevasse, so that eventually I had to cut across a nasty slope of very hard ice & further down some mixed unpleasant snow before I was out of the wood. The others were down by a better line 10 minutes before me - that cutting against time at the end after such a day just about brought me to my limit.

So much for that day.

My one personal trouble has been a cough. It started a day or two before leaving the B.C. [Base Camp] but I thought nothing of it. In the high camp it has been the devil. Even after the day’s exercise I have described I couldn’t sleep but was distressed with bursts of coughing fit to tear one’s guts - & so headache & misery altogether; besides which of course it has a very bad effect on one’s going on the mountain. Somervell also has a cough which started a little later than mine & he has not been at his physical best.

The following day when the first loads were got to Camp IV in a snowstorm Somervell & Irvine must have made a very fine effort hauling load up the chimney. Hazard had bad luck to be left alone in charge of the porters at [Camp] IV only for one night according to our intentions, but the snow next day prevented Geoff [Bruce] & Odell from starting - & the following day he (i.e. H) elected to bring the party down quite rightly considering the weather; but can you imagine, he pointedly ordered one man, who had been appointed camp cook for the men, to stay up on the chance of his being useful to the party coming up - it is difficult to make out how exactly it happened, but evidently he didn’t shepherd his party property at all & in the end 4 stayed up one of these badly frostbitten. Had the snow been a bit worse that day we went up to bring them down things might have been very bad indeed. Poor old Norton was very hard hit altogether - hating the thought of such a bad muddle, & himself really not fit to start out next day - nor were any of us for that matter & it looked 10 to 1 against our getting up with all that snow about let alone get a party down. I led from the camp to a point some little distance above the flat glacier - the snow wasn’t so very bad as there had been no time for it to get sticky, still that part with some small delays took us 3 hours; then S. [Somervell] took us up to where Geoff [Bruce] & Odell had dumped their loads the day before & shortly afterwards Norton took on the lead; luckily we found the snow better as we proceeded, N [Norton] alone had crampons & was able to take us up to the big crevasse without step cutting.

Here we had half an hour’s halt and at 1.30 I went on again for the steep 200 ft or so to the point where the big crevasse joins the corridor. From here there were two doubtful stretches. N [Norton] led up the first while the two of us made good at the corner of the crevasse - he found the snow quite good. And S. [Somervell] led across the final slope (following Hazard’s just discernible tracks in the wrong place, but of some use now because the snow had bound better there). N. [Norton] & I had an anxious time belaying, & it began to be cold too as the sun had left us. S. [Somervell] made a very good show getting the men off - but I won’t repeat my report. Time was pretty short as it was 4.30 when they began to come back using S’s [Somervell’s] rope as a handrail. Naturally the chimney took some time. It was just dusk when we got back to camp.

N [Norton] has been quite right to bring us down for rest. It is no good sending men up the mountain unfit. The physique of the whole party has gone down sadly. The only chance now is to get fit & go for a simpler quicker plan. The only plum fit man is Geoffrey Bruce. N. [Norton] has made me responsible for choosing the parties of attack himself first choosing me into the first party if I like. But I’m quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough. Irvine will probably be one & 2 of N [Norton], S [Somervell], or self with Geoff the other 2 to make up 4 for the two parties of two each. But again I wonder whether the monsoon will give us a chance. I don’t want to get caught but our three day scheme from the Chang La will give the monsoon a good chance. We shall be going up again the day after tomorrow - Six days to the top from this camp!

Mails have come tumbling in these last days – three in rapid succession - yours dated from Westbrook with much about the car. I fear it has given you a lot of trouble; Clare’s poem with which I’m greatly delighted; a good letter from David [Pye] from P.Y.P. [Pen-y-Pass, Wales] - will you please thank him at once as I shall hardly manage to do so by this mail. Mother writes in great spirits from Aix. It’s a great joy to hear from you especially but also from anyone who will write a good letter.

The candle is burning out & I must stop.

Darling I wish you the best I can - that your anxiety will be at an end before you get this - with the best news. Which will also be the quickest. It is 50 to 1 against us but we’ll have a whack yet & do ourselves proud.

Great love to you. Ever your loving, George.

[written on margin of first page]
P.S. The parts where I boast of my part are put in to please you and not meant for other eyes. G.M.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 27 1916'

Disappointment that his leave might not come through for two months.

The news from Romania made him feel that he could run like an ostrich and bury his head in the sand.

Lithgow was now Acting Major and Bell was acting Captain. He planned to go to Amiens to get food for the men’s Xmas. The plan for the day was 9am breakfast (an hour later than usual), porridge and sausage and mash; dinner - roast pork, plum pudding, dessert; tea - fresh butter and new bread, jam, biscuits and celery; supper - soup, bread and cheese. He had fixed it up with the Games Committee and the most surprising thing was the enthusiasm for celery for tea. He was planning a football match with Platnauer’s battery.

Asks if she was sending him an Xmas parcel. If so it had to be sent by 5 December. Thought mince pies wouldn’t last but if she sent mincemeat the cook could manage the pastry.

They had great music last night before, during, and after dinner. One of Lithgow’s Scots playing the melodeon, Bell on the flute, and one of the signallers and himself sang.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been frustrated in his attempts to get to Paris. No side car had arrived from Trafford’s Squadron to pick him up. Was hoping to get to Amiens in a car belonging to a neighbouring battery. Otherwide he would have to get a train to Rouen or Abbeville.

Wishes he had received a letter from her before he left to reassure him about her recovery [from pneumonia].

Would enjoy the victory celebrations in Paris if he could get there as the French were friendly now.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had got things straight in his dugout with his table cloth on and the potpourri open when he was at home. The lavender bag was amongst his clothes and he could sit on the cartridge case at the table or in the arm chair next to it. Hoped Dunbar or Lithgow would be buying him a stove in Amiens that day. Had been writing to Mrs Wilson in answer to her letter and thought he might spend a night of his leave in Winchester. Had been on a voyage of discovery to a neighbouring battery to find a young master at Winchester called Platnauer who he thought would have mutual friends.

Had no duties all day as it was wet. Thought there would be more such days during the winter.

Had received a waistcoat from his mother which was a great success and he felt impervious to cold. Had received a new pair of breeches and a new coat from his tailor.

28 Oct - Had received her letter and was sorry Clare was not feeling like herself. Was shocked and grieved to hear about Persis.

The war was too disgusting to think about and the Germans were too good at the game. They ought to give up talking about a fight to the finish as the V.D.C. [Volunteer Defence Corps] folk had said all along. The French capture of Donaumont was a good knock.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

He had just been writing to Rendall who was a goose. He enclosed Rendall’s letter which had made him angry. Why had he engaged Jelli to play without fixing terms first? Thought Rendall ought to offer her 10 guineas without bringing him into it. Wishes she could come with him to hear the performance. It looked a lovely programme.

Thanks her for crediting him with a gift of a woolly coat for the baby. He was ashamed to say the gift he referred to, which now seemed commonplace and even vulgar by comparison, was a box of chocolates for his wife.

Hoped to be with her as early as possible on Saturday.

Duncan had written making three impossible suggestions but he did want to see him and it may be his only chance. It wasn’t highly convenient and she might say no.

He was going to Winton tonight to dine with the Irving’s.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘A mountain camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar]. In the rains'.

Brief Summary
Travels towards home.

Detailed Summary
Complains of no mail and that he had received no news from her for the two last months of summer. Wants her with him and feels it is a waste not to enjoy that country together. The march down to Kharta [region] from the Doya La [high mountain pass] was even more entrancing than the previous year. First valley flower he found was blooming in the same place where he had collected seed pods last year. Saw a magnificent purple primula. Describes flowers and plants he saw including dwarf rhododendrons in full bloom, a willow shrub, primula sikhinensis [sikkimensis], a small iris, a white briar and a rose.

Stayed one day in Teng camping in a very good sheltered spot. The following day was spend chiefly in picnicking in a wonderful place surrounded by pines and overlooking the Arun gorge.

Then into the Kama Valley where the rains started again, but the camp was in a lovely spot on a little knoll overlooking the main valley and on the edge of a little mountain torrent. Describes the fine forests (mostly juniper) and beds of irises. They were waiting on the weather before continuing and he was happy walking about the hillsides or sitting round the camp fire.

They had moved on that day and gone over the Chog La [high mountain pass] which was just over 16,000 ft and just managed to be a snow pass and were camping nearly 2,000 ft below it on the north side and then departed from the Kharta Valley by another ridge and the Sanchang La [high mountain pass]. It was the ideal mountain country and they would have to wait there for 3 days on account of transport difficulties. Hoped the sun would shine for one of the days.

His plan to go through the corner of Nepal had not come off as it was impossible to arrange transport. Instead he would leave from Teng with Somervell and Crawford on 3 July and follow the route he and Bullock took last year as far as Gyanka Nampa. Then they would go south to Sar and keeping south of the Yaru river to the Nago La. Somervell and Crawford planned to stay in Lhonak and he would continue alone. Hoped to arrive in Darjeeling about 20-23 July and would wire from there which boat he would catch.

[Continues on the morning of June 28th] - was writing from bed watching the blue smoke of the cookhouse fire. Life was aimless and he couldn't really enjoy things at present in spite of the lovely flowers and scenery. They were not quite the jolly company they were and an ungraceful air had come over them even though they were well rid of Finch. But they were not bored with each other.

Felt he would take much interest in their garden when he got back.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from 'Kalimpong’.

Brief Summary
Split into 2 groups. Plan to beat height record without using oxygen. Training by Finch on use of oxygen. 40 men selected which wasn't enough. Travelled by train up the Teesta Valley. Finch and Crawford left behind to wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Description of flowers.

Detailed Summary
They had split into two parties with himself in the first group and travelled to Phari following the previous year’s march. General Bruce had wanted to travel all together with 300 animals. Describes Bruce and the management of the advance party moving stores, fixing camps, and he expected to share his opinion about the condition of the snow when the time came. During the expedition they planned that a party of three would try to beat the height record without using oxygen. They had been provisionally selected - Morshead, Norton, and young Bruce.

Finch was insisting on oxygen training and had declared that a man should have a fortnight’s training with the apparatus and that unless he had it he wouldn’t be responsible for anyone’s safety when using it. Thinks two days would be ample training. If this rule held good the three he named were excluded from the possibility of getting to the top with oxygen, because there wouldn’t be a fortnight to spare for training them. He didn’t expect the plan would work out exactly according to intention as he thought General Bruce wouldn’t be rigid on the matter.

There were only 40 porters in the party which was quite inadequate. They were good men selected from 150 Nepalese and among them were 14 who had climbed with him the previous year. He reckoned they would have to make about four journeys to the North Col and two journeys up from there to 25,000 ft which he thought was asking too much. Bruce had been short on time and couldn’t gather more men worth taking or equip them. He planned to save them as much as possible on the journey and possibly gather a few Tibetans.

He was enjoying the venture hugely as it wa the jolliest of parties and everything was well arranged. General Bruce, Wakefield, Strutt, Noel and himself were going down to Siliguri while, ‘young Bruce’ had gone ahead to look after the luggage. He had returned after dinning in the station to find their beds already set up and arranged with mosquito nets which he thought was the proper way to travel, although the net wasn’t very effective and he was bitten and had to use iodine and prophylactic quinine. He hoped to escape fever.

They had travelled up the Teesta Valley to railhead with General Bruce putting his head out of the window most of the time, brimming over with joy and waving his handkerchief at passers-by, and Noel had used his cinema apparatus [film camera]. He describes the heat, and of arranging stores before going up to Teesta Bridge. From there the General walked up about 4,000 ft.

They came round by train to save 300 rupees but the rest preferred to start early that morning motoring out from Darjeeling about 8 miles and then walking. His companions from there would be Bruce, Norton, Longstaff, and Noel. Finch remained behind at Darjeeling with Crawford to bring the oxygen. They would probably be about 10 days behind them which he felt was rather hard luck for them. That night he was sharing a room with Longstaff and he thought they would get on together very nicely.

He would describe his time in Darjeeling, but it would be largely of idleness. He had been walking with Wakefield, Norton, and Somervell but the mountains were not at their best. Describes specific flowers and their glorious colours, but thinks they were not as loveable as English blossoms. Everything seemed to be in waiting for the first rain showers. He did not expect to see as many flowers in Sikkim until they came to the rhododendron zone.

He had ordered Curtis to give her a book which should be useful in identifying wild flowers and thought perhaps she could collect some flowers with Clare.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 28 1917'

He had been busy building a bathroom with a floor and thin walls but no roof.

He had found more grape hyacinths, a patch or rhubarb and some leeks.

He had been reading Well’s book which was very amusing and interesting in parts. Agrees that the offensive is the winning side at present provided it had command of the air and no effective means had been invented for stopping submarines. Agrees with Well’s opinion of the army. The waste of men was amazing and using less horses would be an economy. Doesn’t agree about German airmen who were a nimble lot. Can’t dispense with horses for field batteries without very seriously impairing their mobility.

Gives his opinion on how the war might end – cutting the railway to Constantinople, Russian and the Romanians retaking Romania. Germany may collapse in the summer but he didn’t believe she would and then everything depended on the Balkans.

Looked as though compulsory rationing would be the order in England so she should stop sending cakes. She seemed to fear going seriously short of food but he hopes she will have plenty of vegetables in the garden.

His ankle was behaving badly again and he was going to try and wear shoes for a time.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from the train between Birkenhead and Chester

He had received her undated letter which he assumes was written on Christmas Day. Assumes many of those there with her for Christmas would be staying on for Mildred’s marriage [Ruth’s sister]. He did not care about the symbols of marriage, burial, repentance or forgiveness. A good ceremony could be quite amusing but a bad one would do worse than merely loosing him.

He had quite a happy visit to Birkenhead and Avie and Harry had arrived after two burst tyres in the wind and rain in tremendous spirits. On Monday night he planned to stay at Mobberly and then on Tuesday he would be home with her. Suggests she go down whilst he was at Weymouth and stay nearby with his mother or a female friend for company and then he could see her at weekends.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Thanks her for her letters and the account of Xmas Day. Wishes he could have seen the children open their presents and he loved a Christmas tree.

Couldn’t bring himself to write too much as he was expecting to be released soon and he might get home before the letter. Wouldn’t write all he thought about Studies in Christianity for the same reason although he was highly delighted with it.

Thanks her for sending Stephen Tallents letter. Had to just be patient and wait. He had been writing. What did she think of his definition of the highest aims of education - “to stimulate consciousness of unconcious values”?

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 28 1917'

The Mess were very appreciative of the sausages so please could she send the same sort again. They were mainly living on rations of bully beef and biscuits.

It was desperately cold. There had been snow lying on the ground for the last 10 days and a NE wind for the last 4 days.

A nice Irishman of the 109th had been wounded in the stomach as he had left the observation post and he was sorry as he was a nice man.

A chance had come along to apply for the staff there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was working in shifts of 24 hours. Apologises that he hadn’t had chance to write. Had been on the guns from daylight to diner. They were all happy and full of hope. The men rise to the occasion and will enjoy it even if they have a bad time. Was feeling rather deaf last night. Lithgow looses all sense of cool control the moment a hitch occurs. Thinks people in England must be excited. Didn’t think the Germans would take Verdun. Had heard that five German divisions had been taken from the British front.

Was glad she had enjoyed her time with Mary. Ask what she thinks of Ralph. Acknowledges letters, soup tablets and cakes and thinks the prunes were a good idea and he would save them for private consumption. Describes the mess and people he eats with. Asks her to send one cake a week. Had read most of Clutton-Brock’s book The Ultimate Belief which he comments on and he recommends she get a copy too.

He was in the map room standing by to be given a job. He was always standing by. Hoped to get some sleep before going on night duty again.

Wonders what the future held for them and whether he would be home for good before Xmas as he longed to be with her and build up a life together again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from '1st Base Camp under Everest’ on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He had been busy finishing despatches to Howard-Bury. Describes the journey across the plain with 18 porters, being purposely mislead, and a miscommunication. The second day’s journey was uneventful, and he had climbed with Bullock.

Describes the following morning’s first view of Everest. They were not completely cut off from civilisation as there was a monastery nearby. Supplies were bought up for the monks and they could arrange to get fuel there.

He gives a detailed description of the previous day’s first mountaineering expedition, with Bullock and five porters, mentioning crossing glaciers, pinnacles over 50 ft high, and having to cut steps which was good training but tiring. They discovered a camping ground and had two good wettings in ideal bathing places. He was feeling more tired than he had ever felt in the Alps but was pleased with himself from a physical point of view.

He explains plans for the next day’s advanced camp. 'I can’t tell you how it possesses me and what a prospect it is. And the beauty of it all!’.

He had received another letter from her and was sorry about her troubles. Wishes she was lying where Guy Bullock was so he could kiss her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 28 1917'

They had slept two nights in this wonderful and pitiful old town and had quite good billets. They occupied the two upper floors of a large and well built house which he describes. They had had a comfortable start to the war of movement. The first day was miserable as it rained a lot but he had spent yesterday position hunting with Glen and Hutchinson. They had found quite a good place and hopes they shall go there. Describes a very pleasant walk he went on and a garden he saw.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Newcastle

Was sorry she wouldn't have seen anything of Avie and was glad she had been to St John's Vicarage [his parent's home].

Was delighted by events in the Balkans and in Palestine. The defeat of Bulgaria was more important as it would involve the railway to Constantinople. The American advance of 11 kilometres sounded like a good start. Someone had told him the war would be over within 3 weeks but even in a dream he couldn't swallow that optimism.

Describes a series of games he organised for the men on the beach which including nude swimming race, a three legged race and steeplechase.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Wednesday

He and Reade had spent the day climbing on Lliwedd. The mist was thick and there was snow around. He lead and was in quite good form. He had worn two shirts which was an excellent way of clothing himself.

Conor O’Brien did not arrive last night as the steamers from Ireland were not running in daylight for fear of submarines. He had arrived that morning after they had left for the day. The fourth member of the party couldn’t come at all.

Alan was more responsible and soberer. The constant need for control, thought and care had matured him. This meant he was less interesting than usual. He would stick at his job after the war and it was a shame he hadn’t gone to the Varsity. He would always be one of the nicest of people.

Is concerned about her health and asks if the reason for her high temperature was milk fever and whether Clare was now taking a bottle. Hopes she will enjoy her part in Mildred’s wedding and asks who will cook for her guests at the Holt. Hopes Mildred took his letter to her well as he feared it might have come across as rather a lecture. Asks her to date her letters.

Postscript - the clouds had lifted and the glass had gone up so they ought to have a fine day, rather windy and cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on 'Friday 29 Dec 1916' on his arrival back in France after his leave

He had made a list in pencil of requirement that he had forgotten to leave with her. He had arrived back early that morning. Men were all really pleased with Xmas Day. They were firing in the morning of Xmas Day so dinner was late - 3pm. There was a continuous session with food and music until midnight.

Mud was worse than when he had left. He had tripped over a wire but saved himself.

He had finished Mr Britling Sees it Through [by H. G. Wells] on the train which was very interesting and he would send it to her to read.

Talks about their time together whilst he was on leave.

He had found her parcel - plums, assorted fruits, ginger, chocolates, tinned turkey, and brawn. The mince pies were greatly appreciated and some mincemeat remained. Chocolate cake had not arrived.

Had to be up early for the Observation Post.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

Thanks her for sending on his silk socks which he had forgotten. They had a strenuous first day climbing different variations of routes on the South Buttress of Tryfan. He had rescued a lamb and carried it to safety in his rucksack. They had gone to Ogwen for tea as he wanted to persuade Mrs Jones to take the O’Malley party after their week in their current hotel. Hugh was a better walker than he expected but he hadn't got the hang of climbing yet and he was worried he didn't like it. O’Malley was a nice gentle person but wasn't very interesting. Their next objective was Lliwedd but the road had been closed by the military. They were going to invite Lieutenant Fisher (the officer in command) to dinner. The previous night he had sat with a mug of beer by the fire, played picquet with Hugh and read a chapter of The Ambassadors in bed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 29'

Describes the death of two young men in the battery who were killed as they all returned together from the trenches.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongli Chu.

Full Transcript

My dearest One,

This is the great day of valley-ease & warmth & languor & the delights of the lotus-eater, & I must write to you here with my feet in the splashing stream & heaven all about me as I look up. We started from Pedong this morning – sloped easily down the 2,000 ft to the stream where I bathed last time while Noel immortalised the event; there Irvine, Odell & I bathed, properly this time, even finding a pool to dive into, and at length. Thence on ponies up to Rheenok - you should be able to follow all this on one of my old maps of Sikhim [Sikkim] – where I made some attempts at photographing the remarkable houses, & thence, not up over the pass by Ari to get here by the shortest way, but contouring the hill until we could drop into this valley 6 miles below the bungalow. It is a very lovely valley, quite one of the best parts of Sikhim [Sikkim], & we had a good walk up, quite energetically carrying heavyish rucksacks. I was wearing my new boots for the first time for a whole march & found them pretty comfortable, my ankle & hip are all going quite well too, so that I quite expect by the time we reach Phari I shall have ceased to think about them.

The weather is perfectly fine but very hazy owing to the great number of fires in the valleys. It is the custom of the country to burn a good deal of undergrowth in the forests & dead leaves in order to get better new grass in the spring – but I can’t remember anything like so much haze as this last year. Consequently we have had nothing at all of a view all the way from Darjeeling & the country is looking more dry & dead than last year; it has in fact been very dry; I hear there has been exceptionally little snow in Tibet & the plains are already beginning to look green – but this is hardly credible. Incidentally, there are sights of a change of weather this afternoon but then we had a thunderstorm in Kalimpong which made absolutely no difference!

It has apart from views been a pleasant journey so far. We started in motors for 6 miles from Darjeeling & half way down the hill Norton, Hingston, Somervell & self had breakfast with a tea planter called Lister – it is a famous tea garden I believe & he certainly gave us to drink Orange Pekoe of the most delicious flavour (a series of violent slashes at this point). After that pleasant interval we took all the short cuts hurrying down to Tista Bridge, where we arrived dripping & found our ponies; my pony which is to carry me to Phari is quite a good beast – the best I have had at this stage & my saddle is comfortable & I feel very well off altogether -; we went straight up the hill on our ponies & were in Kalimpong at 1.30 for tiffin.

At Kalimpong next day last times performances were repeated – a “tamasha” for boy scouts & girl guides & a wonderful little ceremony in the big school room with all of us on the platform singing the metrical version of Psalm 121 to the tune of Old Hundredth, & prayers, & speech making divine/mixed. Old Dr Graham is really a wonder, & if one were going to be a missionary one couldn’t do better. He has between 6 & 700 children, mostly by bastards or children of ne’er-do-well parents & does them well all round. When the old Scot is short of money he goes down to Calcutta & collects a few batches of rupees from the big businessmen who all know & believe in him & his institutions flourish.

I think I told you the names of the 2nd party, but omitted Odell. Shebbeare the forest officer is an excellent fellow; we went a little walk into the forest above Pedong last evening & we saw quite close a very fine jungle cat, about as high as Raven but with the propositions of Agapanthus or rather perhaps of the other Westbrook cat, which it does resembled in colour – S. didn’t get a very good view of it & couldn’t tell me what it was; but it is extraordinary how it makes the whole forest seem alive to see a beast like that. We couldn’t be a nicer party – at least I hope the others would say the same; we go along our untravelled way in happiest fashion.
Since I began writing the air has become unbearably stuffy & a thunderstorm is brewing. The one crab about this place is that there is no water supply which is at all likely to unpolluted – & so one drinks tea, but our tiffin tea has left me very thirsty & I long for a long lemon squash or whisky & soda. You see how completely a physical animal one has become.

I’m spending a certain amount of time & effort as we come along learning Hindustani; it is very unsatisfactory because the coolies themselves are so bad at it; but I do find already that I get on with them more easily. We shall be very short of men who can speak to porters higher up. Irvine, Odell & Beetham, none of them know a word yet.

Dearest I’m really enjoying myself now with a good holiday feeling. If I were not I should be still feeling grieved with the world because no letter has yet reached me from you. Anyway after four marches I will receive a mail. Tomorrow’s march is all up hill to Sedongchen & the next, still up to Gnatong (12,500), is the great rhododendron march, but only the very lowest will be in flower. I have in mind another little detour, by the way of variety, from Kupup, diverging to the Natu La instead of Jelap La as before.

Dear girl I think of you often & often with ever so much love & wish for your company. Would there were some way of bringing you nearer. I think the nearness depends very much upon the state of ones imagination. When it boils up as it does sometimes at night, under the stars I could almost whisper in you ear; and even now dear I do feel near you, though my state is loggish & I come very near to kissing you.

My love to Clare & Berry & John & best of all to yourself.
Ever your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Believed they were moving that night south to the 1st Army. Orders had only just come. Had only that afternoon planted all the seedlings from Westbrook. Only half the Battery was to move. Lithgow and Bell were to go with him. No more bricks and mortar. Was sad he wouldn’t see the end of the building project. Thought they would be touring the country in motor lorries for a few days which he would enjoy but it was going to be wet. Was glad of a servant who packed for him and would upack. Was glad to think of her with Avie.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Phari, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead.

He had received Ruth's letter from one month prior noting it took about three days for the mail to get from Darjeeling. He was looking up at the mountains as he was writing to her. There had been a change in scenery from the valley and flowers to a wide flat basin, occurring within three hours as they trekked to Phari. Chumolhari was a single snow peak as high above them as the Matterhorn. Phari was a fort squarely built of stone. There were no roofs. Asks after Mrs Hodge, and wonders about letting the house.

They had spent the day crossing the Jelep La in bad weather. He had a nasty headache and was feeling weak folowing rises in elevation. It had been too rough to ride a pony until they got down onto the Chumbi Valley. The descent onto the Tibet side of the Jelep river was beautiful with many blooming flowers and had been surprised to see four enormous vultures. They had spent time at a bungalow hosted by a political officer and his family. The expedition had been living on the country and Wollaston and Wheeler had both been unwell.

[Letter continues later] - Describes weary walks and being affected by the heights. Other members of the party had arrived and together they were to head towards Kampa Dzong and then to Tinki, with ponies and yaks. It was cold and they had experienced dust storms. He slept in a tent with Bullock. Wollaston and Kellas had not yet arrived. Accounts of the expedition written by Howard-Bury would be published in The Times, wired from Bombay and perhaps three weeks ahead of his letters. Howard-Bury was not a kind man, Wheeler had a colonial fashion, and Heron seemed jolly today.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 29 1916 The Ante Room'

Describes his view of the Infantry attack and capture of Eaucourt L’Abbage.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Writes in the midst of packing and arrangements. He was disappointed that the end was so much tamer than he had hoped.

He carried the whole party on his shoulders to the end and they were turned back by a wind in which no man could live for an hour. He had plenty of reserve and could have carried on another 2,000 ft with ease had the conditions been favourable. They had established the way to the summit for anyone who cared to try the highest adventure and he didn't much regret having failed to beat the record as they could have done easily enough had fortune favoured them.

He and Bullock planned to tavel together to Lachen, in Sikkim, where Bullock hoped to meet his wife. He would then travel on to Darjeeling alone and expected to be there about the 20th.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'Dug-Out' France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 29 1916'

Had returned to the battery and the other half had left for the rest camp. They had been replaced with new men. His back hurt and the world of war was dismal. Torrential rain had been very hard to keep out of their holes and half his hole was a puddle and in a great mess. Describes how he had dug a soaking pit and diverted the water from the roof.

Had been busy on his day off attending to a new dug out which was to be a den of pleasure as the mess room was too dank. Had the holes in the ceiling of the mess room blocked up too.

30 Aug – Very wet day. Had been doing jobs around the battery. Describes the telephonists dug out where he was sitting writing and what he could see from there.
Comments on the good news from Romania and the interior of Germany where it must be bad if their troops were running short of food.
Had received letters from Uncle Hawes and Aunt Jessie but they were badly written. Describes how to write a good letter.
Had written no more of his Book of Geoffrey.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

The day had been so disgusting that he was quite demoralised. Cold pitiless rain and so no duties. Had read Felix Holt by George Eliot which was very good and he earnestly recommended it to her.

Didn’t want to discuss religion in a letter in case he caused her pain as their views were so far apart, especially about the New Testament which he regarded as a fallible human record of a wonderful man which he tried to understand in its historical setting. She took more literal guidance from the Gospels. He had not the slightest respect for the Church as divinely instituted. He was afraid she had a long journey of doubt and difficulty before her.

Had received two letters from her and a cake. They had been enjoying the preserved fruits and ginger. He had gone to a canteen which he had not been to before to buy provisions but it was full of people so he decided to be there at 8am when it opened.

30 Oct - weather was still atrocious. Had got stuff from canteen. Bell was at the O.P. [observation post] but could see nothing. Last time Earl had been in the trenches he and another man tried for 15 mins to pull an officer out of the mud but failed until further assistance came. It had been quite a while since he had been to the front line. If they ever pushed the Germans over the Bapaume Ridge the fighting would start again. Couldn’t think how miserable the Infantry must be.