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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 July 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 20 Friday' [Friday was actually the 21st]

Describes the work he had to do the day before clearing and then occupying an enemy trench. Had walked to the front line but seen nothing by ruin and shell holes. Describes the German dug out they had taken. Describes his companion Glen’s physical appearance and character and the fact he was a great blessing for whom he felt quite an affection.

Not as optimistic about the situation as she was. Still at the stage of weakening the enemy.

Comments on the capital the press were making out of the war and that Lord Harmsworth had passed by and stopped to look at one of their guns firing but had missed him as he was drinking tea in a tent at the time.

Comments on her letters.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Life was getting strenuous. Had been busy and was feeling happy about the work. The guns were shooting well. Anxious not to make any mistakes as he didn’t want to make things any less easy for the Infantry.

Thought he had written about the £250 cheque. Was amused to hear about Owen’s visit to Westbrook. She was having a much more sociable summer than the previous one. Was interested in her London visits and the Bridget and Stephen household. Asks if she has seen Will.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 November 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 20 1916'

Was sorry for the gloomy note he wrote yesterday. The war was getting the better of him but he was getting his own back. The worse the weather the less they had to do but even that little was difficult to complete. He wished he had some fixed things at fixed times during the day but that was impossible. He would try and make a plan for the evenings. He would be less sociable once Bell had left which would make it easier to settle down to mental occupation. A lot of energy went into fighting the cold and discomfort.

Last night he was cheered by the appearance of Platnauer, George and Falconer. Had a good time playing Bridge and talking about books and art. He thinks he needs others to lift his spitis and it was feeble to be dependent on anything exterior.

Discusses the nature of his depression.

[Letter resumes shortly before tea time] - He had been digging and felt more of a man. He would like to be able to draw what he sees. He had acquired a quite special feeling about men digging. His diggers would be simple, solid folk like the sort that Jean-Francois Millet might have painted but his would be more in harmony with the soil.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had only just received letters from Mildred and learnt that she had been ill. It was horrible to think that she had been ill and he hadn’t known. She should be careful and recover.

He had received a letter from David in which he said that a mutal friend had told him that after observing her behaviour he believed Jelly was in love with him [David] and he wonders if he should try and fall in love with her. Wasn’t sure if this was correct or what to think about it but hoped they could pull it off.

Paris leave was open now but he didn’t think he would put in for it.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 October 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Benares, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He was delighted she was coming to meet him. He had just missed the English Mail at Darjeeling, and hoped to get the mail at Agra. Had been sightseeing and was suffering with a chill similar to the one he had in August but with rheumatic legs rather than a swollen gland and sore throat. His legs were quite painful most of yesterday and today he could barely walk. He was looking at silks in Benares and had hardly bought anything but he had one or two patterns for her to see.

He supposes the last letter she had received from him had been written from Kharta or Everest. He was travelling towards her pretty busily, and there was a lot to tell. He had hoped to have an account of their last days on Everest but it had worked out so badly that he didn't want to send it but would show her when they meet at Marseilles.

Had a very gay time for the few days he was in Darjeeling. Explains Poojah when everyone takes a holiday. Had been to a fancy dress ball and a garden party. Describes the hotel veranda he was sitting on and writing from calling it an enormous house which stands among its shade giving trees like a rajah’s palace in a park. The hotel lacked fans and electric light but was clean enough. He was lead to expect the journey would be intolerable but he had only one change after leaving the mountain railway and a carriage to himself for almost 32 hrs.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 September 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 20 1916'

Had received her letter with news she had been gardening at the Holt. Comments on the plants in the garden and agrees the Poplars will need to be lopped.

Quiet day in the map room. Ground must be heavy with mud after the rain and shell fire.

Austin Earl came to dinner. He was glad to see him. He wasn’t enjoying life in his battery which had to wrestle gigantic shells in a sea of mud and had almost nothing in the way of dug-outs. Earl was impressed by their comfort. Describes Earl’s character. Thought Thomson and Willett were hereabouts.

Circumstantial rumour that the Thiepval garrison of 4,000 had surrendered.

Had read an article in the Round Table of June about industrial organization which interested him. Had go the name of a book to read - The Ragged Troussered Philanthropists by one Tressall a house painter. Would be ordering the Centenary book about Shakespeare firstly for her, then him, and lastly their family although it did cost £50.

[writes along the margin on the first page] – by new arrangements observation post duty would only be one in every 10 days which was good news.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 20 September 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Glad all was well with her. They had just spent 1 ½ hours doing a Muster call at which the name of every man was read out and he was cold after standing about.

He had gone to bed earlier than usual and adjusted his bed so it was more comfortable. As a result he was up early than usual and took a walk between breakfast and parade at 8.45 am.

Had to take some signallers over to be inspected at 4pm when he was hoping to go into Winchester.

Had a letter from Avie and there was some prospect of her house being settled with a good cook and a nursery governess. Hopes she will be able to get away soon. She was anxious about John. Polly thinks they will name the new baby Althea so there was one for the list but she had probably made up her mind already.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 April 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 21 1917'

Acknowledges parcels received. Had sent off his bank book to Cox's. Sets out what their income might be after the war and whether the government might tax capital. Thought life would be expensive and it would be a good plan to insure their children's education. Asks her to get papers from The University Life Assurance.

The right side were going to be joining them so they would be together again. He was busy with works on the mess. The General and Payne had been round with the Colonel and had said he had been told of his valuable help to the infantry recently.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 December 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters and a Xmas parcel. The last cake was on the point of disintegration and it might have been better to wait a day after cooking before sending it.

The general impression was that the labour folk were making a mess of demobilisation hence Geddes’ appointment. Saw in the paper that the demobilisation of all teachers and sudents had been ordered and so it might not be more than 2-3 months.

He was writing a song for Xmas day which was a parody of Widdicome Fair.

He was reading Studies in Christianity and liked the chapter on Christian love very much.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 July 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday July 21' [Friday was actually the 22nd]

Night had been strenuous but day was peaceful so he had slept until noon ready for a long day in the trenches tomorrow.
Gives views on the Wings of a Dove by Henry James which he had almost finished reading. Discusses memories of Venice and wants to go back.

Comments on news in her letters. Had heard from Geoffrey Keynes who was in the area. Thought Raymond might be near too but Trafford was in the north.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 March 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 21 1917'

Evenings were spent discussing the situation over maps and intelligence reports. Yesterday from 10.30 to 7pm was spent in a prolonged reconnaissance with Lithgow and Glen which was a very pleasant excursion into the countryside. They were out of the action and would be for some days or perhaps weeks. They were taking the opportunity to smarten up the battery. Spent the morning drilling and instructing their sections. This afternoon they were to have a full dress parade, the first since he had joined the battery.

Had received a parcel of chocolate and plums from her both of which were excellent. Also some beautiful socks. He was short of medium socks, rather thinner than Mrs Steele’s because the two pairs of boots he mostly wore seemed to require thin socks, so he would be glad of three more pairs.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 March 1922

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Chevremont Darjeeling.

Brief Summary
Journey across India from Bombay to Calcutta and the Darjeeling. Norton in hospital. Plans to travel onward. Finch and Crawford to stay behind and wait for delayed oxygen cylinders. Looking forward to seeing flowers in Sikkim.

Detailed Summary
Journey across India passed well enough. Describes the heat, dust, dry plains, and that about half the trees were green, either a sombre green or the brightest imaginable sort. There was much that was worth seeing but they were glad to get to Calcutta.

Their baggage weighed 2 ¼ tons plus a lot of personnel in the train and they paid over 600 rupees to Calcutta and 150 more for handling at Bombay. They were met in Calcutta by the A + N Stores agent who did everything for them. The stores and railway fares cost about £200 from Bombay to Darjeeling.

Norton was in hospital in Calcutta with bad piles after riding but it was not necessary to operate. Norton planned to go with them to join Strutt but he hoped that Norton would be persuaded to join them later.

They next travelled in a rail motor which was a much cleaner ride than the train. They got to near Darjeeling quicker than expected and met Bruce coming up the road in a car who made great cheer at seeing them. The country looked very different now to how he had left it being much browner due to the weather being particularly dry which he thought was a good thing for them.

Immense quantities of stores were on their way to or already at Phari. It was possible to save a march to Kalimpong, which was the second stage on the journey the year before, as they were going by a special train, a journey of 5 to 6 hrs to Kalimpong which they could do quite easily in a day.

After Kalimpong they planned to split into two parties. He would be in the first party going to Phari. Then an advance party of about 8 of them (himself, G. Bruce, Strutt, Longstaff, Wakefield, and Noel) would go onwards taking a limited amount of stores with them while the rest would follow gradually behind. Finch was staying with Crawford to bring the oxygen when it arrived [the cylinders hadn't yet reached Calcutta].

He was looking forward to seeing the earlier flowers in Sikkim [he was here about a month earlier in the year then he was in 1921] and details magnolias in full bloom. He compares the expedition leaders Howard-Bury (1921) and the current leader General Bruce and says he read the proofs of Howard-Bury’s chapters coming up from Calcutta which were worse than he had expected. Morshead would also be joining the expedition which he was very glad about [Mallory and Morshead were the only two returning from the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition].

Realises Ruth may be in Wales and sends his best wishes to the party.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had a new job acting as foreman in construction work using bricks and mortar a mile from the German line. This was because the previous foreman was taking the place of a young lieutenant at Brigade Headquarters who was on leave for the next 10 days. He couldn’t tell her how dangerous it would be as he didn’t know but he didn’t think she should be too anxious. He was being frank with her as he said he would. He thought he would like the work and that it would be an adventure.

[Postscript] – he was glad H. V. R. approved of his pamphlet and asks her to collect any news about that.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France and the letter from David Pye that was originally enclosed

Hadn’t received a letter from her or Mildred and he wished for one so he would know she was still getting better.

He had written a long letter to David to try and help him fall in love with Jelly and reassure him that she would make a wonderful wife. Wonders who told David that Jelly was in love with him and if indeed she was.

Had talked to two other Officers from 471 Siege Battery one of whom was returning to England for good and he was a school master so he was hopeful.

It was infernally cold but the wind had cleared the mist which was a blessing. Thought they would be left there for some time. The Major was making no effort to move as he feared their trucks would be taken away which would be a disaster.

Thought it would be a wonderful Xmas and he might write some lines to greet their friends and she could make some illuminated cards. He wonders what stage she is in her recovery.

[enclosed is a letter from David to George written on 12 November 1918]

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 21 September 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes the erection of the billiard table in the mess which cost £70 and was paid for by previous generations of officers.

Had been to Winchester to see Robin Garbutt and fix up the final arrangemets for borrowing his motobike who had put it in order and he was to start with a full supply of petrol and oil. He was to fetch it that evening from a garage in Winton and he was feeling a bit nervous. Planned to be off by 10am and with her by noon the following day.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 August 1921 [confirms North Col route to summit]

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Pleased with his photographs and hopes to make some money giving lectures on his return home. He had been unwell and stayed in camp when Bullock had gone on alone but was unable to find a way through the valley. Morshead had arrived and the next day he el better so they joined up with Bullock. Describes their clims, camps and troubles with rations. They were successful in finding the route to the North Col and therefore the route to the summit.

Detailed Summary
He was pleased with his photography efforts and printing which would make excellent slides for lectures. Asks her to keep the prints very carefully. He had written to Hinks suggesting he should give some lectures during the winter. He would let the Committee consider the financial arrangements. Asks her if she would like an American tour. They had received no English mail since 21 July [one month prior] and wonders if floods in Tibet had caused the delay. Says he was no longer in poor health and suspects he had tonsilitis.

Bullock had gone off alone reconnoitring and Morshead had arrived the same morning. He had received a chit from Bullock explaining that the valley would not lead to Everest. He spent the day in bed feeling weak, but the next morning was feeling much stronger. Describes his walk up the first valley to the left with Morshead. He didn’t expect to find a valley leading directly to the north col at the foot of the ridge they wanted to climb. He judged they might find a good way to Everest in that direction.

15 August - Continued trekking with Bullock, met the porters, brought down the tents, and took them a long way up the valley which he and Morshead had reconnoitred. There were complications in the march which caused delays and they ending up short of where he wanted to be with no view of their way. They had an uncomfortable camp perched on a stony hillside with snow falling persistently all evening.

16 August - They followed the ridge above them to the top of a small peak (20,500 ft) which was a 1,700 ft rise in an hour an a quarter. They had a good view point and had a clear hour for photography. They had vague hopes of reaching their objective which was a distant snow col in direct line with the north peak, but then had to descend nearly 1,000 ft and it was bad going over a big glacier. There was thick mist all round them and he felt very, tired with a nasty headache. As it was clearly hopeless they turned back. They reached camp late and it was snowing persistently but they knew where they wanted to go and how to get there.

17 August - A very hesitating move with much discussion of what they might and might not do. The rationing arrangement had broken down badly and they were short of food. He blamed it on the incompetence of the sirdar [sardar] at their base camp. They decided to go on next day with only one porter and sent the rest down to the camp below. They hoped to reach their snow col while the snow was still hard but it was a dim hope because they knew fresh snow had fallen and it was always difficult to estimate how much. They needed their snowshoes despite them being heavy on a long march and having to lift a considerable amount of snow on the snowshoe and it being worse for the leader than anyone following.

They reached the col where there were snow covered rocks above the icefall. It was not an agreeable way of passing time. For most of the time they were enveloped in a thin mist which obscured the view and made, one world of snow and sky.

Morshead, who knew the hottest heat of the plains in India, had said that he had never felt any heat so intolerable as this. They continued plodding on and needed a tremendous and continually conscious effort of the lungs. Up the steep final slopes he found it necessary to stop and breath as hard as he could for a short space in order to gain sufficient energy to push up a few more steps. Bullock and the porter had struggled on behind him and Morshead fell out near the top but re-joined them on the col. The clouds hid the peaks when they got there but the expedition had been a success. As they suspected there was a glacier running north from a cwm under the north east face of Everest. He wished it had been possible to follow it down and find out the secret of its exit. He describes the head of the glacier and that across it lay their way, across easy snow up the other side of the cwm where the approach to the north col, the long wished for goal, could not be difficult nor even long.

As they came down his thoughts were full of this prospect and this success. He didn't know when he had allowed himself so much enjoyment from a personal achievement. This success brought their reconnaissance to an end as they had found the way and they were now planning the attack.

These thoughts were needed during the hours that followed to stimulate the mind as it was the most dismal of processions. Morshead had been cooked going up to the col and later was in a state of collapse. The porters had all left their high camp, leaving three tents standing but they were cold and without provisions so they continued to the base. When daylight failed they missed their way and were compelled to make an arduous ascent up a steep rough hillside. A faint misty moonlight made it possible to step from boulder to boulder but Morshead was compelled to rest at frequent intervals. They continued until 2 am. He came in as fit and strong as ever after a long day in the hills and ate a hearty meal in my dry warm sleeping slack before lying down for untroubled sleep.

He organisation the camps and fuel supply before they went down to the expedition base at Kharta and waited on the weather while organising their push to the summit. He had been told that the monsoon should break at the end of the month and a fine spell should set in with September. [Bad weather ultimately delayed any progress for almost a month].

He was happy and full of the object in front of him although there were many times when his mind was full of her and home.

The expedition was short of candles and a little oil lamp constructed out of a vaseline pot was his light.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 January 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 22 1917'

He had spent the evening with Cosmo Gordon who was 4 miles away. He was much nicer than he used to be and had married Frances Graham the sister of Bertie Graham who was with them in Wales when he went with the O’ Malleys and Ursula. Cosmo was a Grenadier Guard in a Stokes Mortar battery. He thought she would like him and hoped they would see them after the war. They had an son aged 8 months.

He was tired and had to start again at 8am with Lithgow.

Was glad she was thrilled with Kipling's account of the Battle of Jutland and thanks her for sending copies of the Spectator.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 March 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 22 1917'

It was quiet with no sound of war where there used to be shelled daily. Wanders what she makes of the German’s retreat. The newspapers were making out that they were pushing the enemy back with desperate haste but that wasn’t the case and they were following in a most leisurely manner. Didn’t now if the Infantry were in touch with the enemy now. They weren’t two days ago. Most of the bridges had been blown up. Describes how some bridges had booby traps. He proceeded with caution over the recovered land.

Péronne made him angry as hardly a roof was left there and all the best houses were badly damaged. On entering the town the first thing he noticed a house on fire in the most medieval part and it must have once been a lovely place. It still had a charm and was rather like Rye.

When he, Lithgow and Glen had been out on their reconnaissance they had walked 20 miles and he had seen frightful sights which disgusted him like fruit trees all cut down. It drove away any feeling about the enemy other that the desire to destroy them.

The countryside behind the German lines was a pleasant surprise and they seemed to have made less of a mess with their dumps and camps.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 May 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They had chopped down the pear tree, white cherry tree and black cherry tree which filled him with the burning sense of sin, shame and horror.

Had been out with the working party last night and had carried six successive sandbags full of bricks on his back for half a mile of rough walking. The authorities were pressing them to hurry but they couldn't build very fast with one whole brick to every twenty fragments. The heat had been unbearably oppressive and he had welcomed the thunderstorm but he had skidded in the rain on the motorbike and broken the glass in his watch. Asks her to send any kind of cover for it.

They had cut the trees down to make room for two new gun positions. Asks her to thank Mother for the excellent pencil.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 May 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Rongli Bridge, Sikkim. [First letter written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead]

The weather had been very bad, monsoon clouds had been blown up from the south on the day of their departure and there had been very heavy rainstorms. The rain clouds were spoiling his views. There were difficulties with transport, muddy paths, and trouble with the mules, which were not accustomed to going down steep hills. All the misfortunes had brought them to a halt in a warm valley bottom. He had nailed a pair of climbing boots greatly to his satisfaction. He describes Sikkim [a state in northwest India] - the hillsides, valleys, the cultivated land he sees on the higher slopes, the rich green growth, and the considerable variety of lilies which made the air fragrant. Wollaston could only name a few of the trees but did know a good deal about tropical things. One of the best moments on their last march was sitting on a bridge waiting for ther ponies and seeing gorgeous butterflies circling about like gently mooring birds.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 November 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was glad to hear about her recovery from pneumonia.

He was getting impatient to know if he would be home in a matter of weeks or months. Was hoping for sometime before term started.

They were to move the following day as the French needed their line as they were building a bridge. They would not be moving far - a few miles outside Arras in the unstrafed countryside and he would be much happier.

Expects she is spending time reading in bed and wonders what she is reading. He had just finished Bleak House which was very long and not all of it very interesting. When Dickens was good he made the most convincing and lovely people. He loved his characters himself and that was a great charm. There were at least 50 characters in Bleak House and of those Dickens only really hated one and mildly disliked half a dozen or so. Wished Dickens was a more careful writer but he poured it all out from the fulness of his observation and experience. He could never quite get over his Victorian weakness for easy sentiment. He didn’t know if his best characters, the shoddy dingy servile, crowd interested him.

He was reading Beaumarchais’s play Figaro which was splendid and reminded him of Mozart’s music. Beaumarchais was one of the great men and he wanted to get hold of an autobiographical book, Mémoires.

An allotment of Paris leave was going begging and he had put in for it. If he wasn’t released before 29th he would console himself by going to Paris and spending his evenings in theatres and concert rooms and his days in bookshops. Wishes she could be there too.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22 October 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 22 1916'

Apologises for missing two days before writing as he had been dining with the 109 battery and then unexpectedly been observing. Had received three letters from her and was glad Clare was alright and she was better from her illness. Thanks her for the ginger cake.

It was very cold already and it was still Autumn so asks her to send him two pairs of warm pyjamas, two short woollen drawers (hard to get), two medium woollen vests, two thick flannel shirts, and a face towel.

Was interested in the Arts and Crafts exhibition. Asks if she had been to a private view and wants very much to see it with her.

Had seen Earl who was more depressed and tired than the last time. He disliked the whole business more than most and was in an uncomfortable battery having to use clumsy great ammunition. Earl was delighted to hear about her gift of potpourri.

Lithgow was giving himself a rest so he and Bell were doing most of the observation work which he describes.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22-23 November 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received her lovely letters. The Captain was due back tomorrow. Bell’s move had been put on hold and he had put in for leave. Speculates on when he would get leave.

Discusses likely terms for the end of the war. Doubted it was possible to draw up terms which would prevent the Russians from exercising their old influence in Central Europe and the Balkans. Wonders at what point the price paid would be sufficient. If Germany were likely to collapse it would be advisable to carry on until that point but he doubted that would happen.

News of Clare was enchanting. Hopes she is better from the attack of vomiting.

Had heard from Harold Porter who was happy in his job of divisional signalling officer. Had heard from Brother Giles who was in Cambridge on a cadet course. Mentions the Greens [who were renting their house, the Holt] and the arrangements he had made with them about coal. Was missing her and looking forward to seeing her.

[Postscript written at 3.30pm on 23 Nov in pen] - was just back from a reconnaissance in their front line which had been an extraordinarily interesting and strenuous day in indescribable conditions. Was waiting for his batman to bring water in the hope of having a hot bath in his dugout.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 22-31 July 1921

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from 1st Base Camp, Rongbuk Glacier on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Was disappointed that all the photographs he had taken had not come out. Will go back to their old camps to re take them. Longs for home. Liked walking round camp collecting flowers. Had been having bad weather. Had enjoyed beautiful views from their highest camp. Had called one of the mountains 'Mount Clare' after their daughter. Describes their explorations and other members of the group.

Detailed Summary
Had received three of her letters and was pleased she liked his parcel from Colombo. All the photographs he had with the ¼ plate had not come out [He had put the plates in the wrong way round and blamed instructions given to him by Heron]. He had taken enormous trouble setting up the photographs, many of them were taken at sunrise from places neither he nor anyone else may go again. Was determined to go back to one of their old camps so he could replace the photographs. He had hoped to show them on a future lecture tour and to her. The weather was bad, but they were much more comfortable in their eighty-pound tent.

He was sorry he hadn't been sharing enough of his feelings with her [in her letter Ruth had asked him to share more] but he had been occupied with what they had to do. He longed for home but remained cheerful even though the moments of real enjoyment were rare. He liked walking round camp collecting flowers but the bad weather stopped him. They had to stay in the tents due to the bad weather and he played piquet with Bullock to pass the time.

He had greatly enjoyed their highest camp the night before their attempt on the W. cwm because of the beautiful views. One mountain in particular was singularly lovely and he called it Mount Clare [the name of his eldest daughter. Mount Clare is now called Pumori, meaning 'mountain daughter']. They had done very little climbing and it was a slow and tiresome business crossing the glacier.

The mountains were rather unfriendly compared to the scenery of the Alps. They hadn't seen a tree in Tibet!

Comments on the contents of her letters.

28 July - Woke up to snow on the ground at Base Camp and the weather clearing. He lead a march with six porters and two mummery tents going up about 3,000 ft from Base Camp. Then raced down to join Bullock half an hour short of 2nd Advanced Camp. Passed a comfortable night, though it was freezing. His alarm clock failed to go off, and later they set out in the moonlight, Bullock with two porters up into the N. cwm and him with two others to the little peak. There was a blanket of cloud a few hundred feet above their heads but they went on and he was able to get a clear view for about 30 seconds of Mount Clare [Pumori]. He was able to take ten photographs, and some of Everest, predicting they would turn out well. He had photographed the West Peak feeling that he had repaired a good detail of the damage [referencing his earlier photography mishaps].

Changing weather and thunderstorms had made them abandon their plan due to thick snow. He and Bullock were later reunited with Howard-Bury’s party. Wheeler arrived later the same evening after making his photographic surveys to the west. Wheeler had been doing much of what they had done but alone. It was rather silly that they couldn’t have joined forces. After three days trekking they had arrived at Kharta and the new Expedition Base Camp. He describes the changing scenery, coming down to Cholo.

They were nearer to the Arun Valley and had crossed two passes and were sleeping near clear bubbling streams. Seeing the snow mountains had been full of interest but to see things grow again had been a real joy. Describes a sweet mountain valley and the flowers saying he might have been in the Highlands. Describes camping and being delighted by a particular flower that especially reminding him of her. They were in the Arun Valley before it went down into a narrow and fearsome gorge to Nepal and India. He planned four days’ rest.

31 July - Mail had arrived and he was busy printing photographs which were more successful. He was enjoying the quiet days but at the same time was looking forward to the next stage of their reconnaissance. They planned to follow a big glacier stream which he presumed came from Everest. The great question was the approach to the North col and feasible line of attack. He hoped to find it easier.

He hoped some of the others would join them as it had been disappointing to see so little of Wollaston and Morshead. Shares his current feelings towards Bullock. Refers to poor Wollaston and Raeburn’s absence for medical reasons and that they had no further news about him.

[Postscript] - he enclosed a few earlier photos.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 April 1917

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 23 1917'

He had received some old letters from her and isn't happy that the post is so bad. They hadn't heard much more about he great operations in the north and south. Had received a letter from Polly. Her father had suffered two bad strokes. He was in his 80s and had married again. As he was semi paralytic his wife was also nursing him. Polly was quite calm about it and didn't really know or love her father and couldn't like him but wouldn't have the new Lady Jenkinson in her home. Polly was capable to creating and living in false worlds. She was nursing and it he thought it would be as well for her if the war went on for another 30 years.

Had a good time at the observation post and had conducted a shoot of 100 rounds. Too cold to walk in the woods but had picked some polyanthus and grape hyacinths which he had put in her bowl in the mess.

There was a good deal of activity about inoculation. So far his servant had given notice that as a result of his inoculation he wouldn't be able to shave him for some days.

Was hoping for some warmer weather. He had found some daffodils and Lithgow some rhubarb which they planned on cutting. The cream she had sent was very good and asks her to send more and to continue sending the sausages. He had ordered two pipes from Cambridge and told them to send her the bill. Asks her to send something for his hair which inclined to scruffiness and his barber servant said he should have some dry shampoo which he thought was a good idea as it was hard to wash his hair out there.

The battery were all together and Wood was sleeping with him in Dunbar's place which he was glad of as the effort of dispelling Dunbar's habitual cloud of gloom was wearisome.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 August 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 23 1916'

Had been unwell and in bed all day. Was sending her a chapter of the Book of Geoffrey and how he might improve it.
[postscript] – the document is too precious to send to Aldeburgh

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 June 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

22 June – had received her letters and cake. A good cook had arrived with the other half of the battery so things in the Mess were better.

23 June – had to stop writing last evening to do more mathematics and registering of targets and had been very busy since then. Was delighted with his birthday present. Comments on her visit to Mary and Ralph’s.

There had been a great storm that afternoon when he was working in the ex-messroom with Lithgow. They had made inadequate arrangements to carry water away. Had to make some damming arrangements. The tent he shared with Bell had been blown away and their things were exposed to the pelting rain. Wondered how he would manage for dry bedding although the weather had turned warmer in the last couple of days.

Was feeling tremendously strung up for great things and hoped they would begin soon.

Comments on Stephen and Bridget’s relationship. Wishes he could talk with her more and although they were ok for officers now it would be a while before he was due leave.

Asks her to thank Clutton-Brock for his book which he had received.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 March 1923

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Somerset Club, Boston’ letterhead writing paper

He would soon be on the Saxonia on his way home. He had been busy with a few lectures and had greatly enjoyed Princeton. Back in New York he had seen Allston Burr, interviewed pressmen, and lectured at St. Paul’s School. There was currently 8 to 10 ft of snow melting steadily.

He was sorry she was still having trouble with the car and that being stuck near the top of Firth Hill with petrol trouble was very bad.

He agreed with her suggestion that she wouldn’t come to meet him further than Godalming Station.

He wasn’t altogether disappointed by the American visit. It had been intensely interesting and had given him a real insight into Americans attitudes and opinions. He liked them on the whole very much, far more than he expected. They were extraordinarily modest and humble and pathetically anxious to be thought of well by English people.

He ends the letter to attend a luncheon party.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 October 1918

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The mess was very quiet. He had been very sleepy all day after an exciting night. Although he was never away from the old battle area the spirit of autumn was everywhere and there was nothing like the healing power of nature especially trees.

He thought much about Charterhouse and imagined teaching and dealing with boys there again and the prospect was pleasing in many ways.

That afternoon he had been to A. [Arras] and had explored the outlying parts. Some of the buildings had been damaged but very few in the south west of the town had been seriously damaged. He had talked to more than one lot of refugees. He had returned with a good supply of vegetables - cabbages, brussel sprouts, onions and celery, in his rucksack.

The post was unreliable because they didn’t have their own censorship stamps as they should and the letters had to pass through so many different and changing hands that he feared she would never receive some of his letters.

He hadn’t yet thought deeply about the latest German Note although it didn’t strike him as satisfactory. It was evident democratic opinion didn’t yet control Germany and they had to wait for that but he felt that miracle would happen.

He wanted very much to see Clutton-Brock’s book and asks her to order him a copy and send it out to him. He had almost finished George Young’s book about the Balkans which was very interesting. He had recently read George Eliot’s Silas Marner which was a very pretty story which she would like.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, 23 September 1916

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 23'

His hand was wobbly after driving in a stake with a very heavy maul. Was hoping he would get fit before he went climbing again. Intended to enjoy the late summer as there would be gloomy days afterwards.

Had been interested by Born in Exile [by George Gissing] which he describes.

Was sharing the work of the advanced section with Dunbar and describes his routine. Asks her to send out tea, about three packets of Mexican chocolate and a dozen soup squares.

He had seen Austin Earl twice more and describes his character. Had received a letter from Urquhart but felt too cynical to answer as he knew that he just wanted to hear how much danger he was in.

Looking at No. 4 gun under her camouflage of wire netting she looked quite a pleasant object but if Dante could see some of the terrible monsters out there he would write it was just what he needed for this inferno and would make drawings in his notebook (felt Dante was a notebook man). Thinks the inferno can’t have been such an unpleasant place. Compares his current situation and hell. Says hell is peopled by two kinds of bores – those with harsh insistent voices and the rest with polished manners. Asks her if she would rather go to Heaven or Hell. If Hell makes people aware that they were wrong, Heaven makes them no less conscious that they were right.

Asks her to copy out this letter for his mother. Hates to think of his letters going around his friends and this not to be among them as it was very like the real him.

Was glad she had spoken to Will and asks what he was doing.

Had just found four lice on a mackintosh cape on which he was sitting.

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