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Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’17 Carlyle Rd, Cambridge’

Brief Summary
George left America after this lecture tour in March 1923. This letter is written in October to Ruth ahead of their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would receive news of George’s death 8 moths later.

Most of this letter concerns plans for moving into Herschel House, including logistics and decorating and furniture choices. The end of the letter is about plans for another expedition to Mount Everest in 1924.

Detailed Summary
They could get into Herschel House on Monday 29th after he had been to a Climbers Club Committee meeting. He had arranged for furniture from the Holt to be cleared on the Saturday morning. Wondered if he should be there for the packing but doubts if it was worthwhile. If he went by car he could take a few plants if there were any she hadn’t already taken.

They would have to wait to make decisions about getting more paper from Jeffries’ for the hall etc.

He had seen Uncle Lawrence and arranged not to have the mantlepiece at present. He had the address of a firm who supplied Dutch blue tiles but he wanted the address of the firm her father had recommended.

He would make out a list of plants he wanted for her guidance and asks if she will inform Westbrook when they would want the stuff from there.

The sale at Herschel House would be on Tuesday 30th in a tent in the garden but there was so little it wouldn’t interfere with their moving in but wondered if they should go to the Elliot’s until it was over. There would be a good new bed in the sale and thought her bargain with Marby [Ruth’s sister Marjorie] wasn’t a good one as it would mean an extra mattress but he would leave it to her.

He would write to Alex Turner to ask their advice about what fixtures they could take from the Holt such as electric light fittings and curtain rods.

They would wait to decide about curtains although he inclined to the new zig zag stuff for the study.

Sealing wax paint couldn’t be used. Could they do a design in a simple colour, white or yellow or umber on the doors and some simple affair on the staircase? He was veering toward brown stain again. As they weren’t going to spend money on the drawing room mantlepiece they could spend more on the staircase.

[Letter continues later] – he had a very tiring drive back last night with a lot of mist. The committee meeting had been long but good. Farrar wouldn’t turn up as he was angry about turning down Finch. Bruce had been in a hotel in Switzerland where Finch had been and was asked whether it was he who was helping Finch to arrange the next expedition [to Mount Everest].

They had to contradict tales about a shortage of funds. Longstaff had heard of it and thought it was very wrong of Farrar as it wasn’t true. Had dinner with Longstaff. Hinks had written to Cranage about his going and he brought up the question with Longstaff although Hinks’ letter hadn’t turned up. He had not turned it down definitely, but he didn’t think they would hear of this going. It would be a big sacrifice for him either way.

It was wretched not being able to talk to her about. She must tell him if she couldn't bear the idea of him going again and that would settle it.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 19 1917'

Had been reading the six letters that had arrived from her and discusses the news in them mainly about friendships and their daughter Clare.

He had shared the dug out with an infantry man who had got very wet and was shivering. They messed together all day but the infantry man had to stay another 24 hours. The infantry had to endure bad times and had a much worse time of it. Showed the Colonel around and he had been praised for his work liaising with the infantry. The Colonel said he would tell the General. Wood was returning and Dunbar was going on a course. A treat that he had refused.

He had received a letter from Lieutenant Bonneau [whom he had met when he was liaison officer with the French] and it was settled they would stay with him and his wife in Paris after the war and then they would visit them.

Yesterday he wore a thick vest, two flannel shirts, a woolly waistcoat, a thin tunic and a mackintosh and was moderately warm.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Nearing Port Said’

Brief Summary
Describes the weather and motion of the sea. He had been sight seeing in Malta. Some uncertainty about end of voyage as there would be a delay in arriving at Calcutta. Due to arrive in Port Said the following day.

Detailed Summary
He had been very busy since they left Malta and the weather had been wet, muggy and windy. There had been a good deal of motion and quite a big sea the day before but he had not been seasick. There was something disturbing and restless about the motion of the sea which made it very difficult to concentrate on anything, it affected his head and produced a kind of dullness that made it impossible to write. Malta was a great joy, but he had been so busy seeing things he did not get newspapers or postcards and it was beyond him to describe Malta without the postcards as it had a very complicated harbour. There were several battleships in the harbour. Describes what he did during his four hours on shore including a visit to the church of St. John [the Knights of Malta] and seeing a very fine collection of armour at the Governors Palace.

He had completed one green rucksack and was happy about his equipment. Asks her to convey his welcome to the Holt and to their friends the Hodges who were visiting her. Asks her to return Hodge’s compass which he didn't need and would be sorry if it got lost. Asks her to send a copy of Robert Bridges Spirit of Man to V. J. Hamilton.

There was some uncertainty about the end of his voyage as the ship would have to stay at Madras unloading heavy cargo, delaying his arrival in Calcutta. Had written to Younghusband and Raeburn asking what he should do in Darjeeling. They were due to arrive in Port Said early the next day but he wouldn't receive her letter. He would try and send a postcard but it was unlikely as the mail steamer was short of coal. He thougth about her alot and had her photo in the book he was reading. He had received a jolly note from Rupert Thompson [a friend from the Pen y Pass climbing parties] and would write him a line of thanks.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was sorry she was cold staying with the Tallents but it would make her wear her fur coat. Wonders if she attracted more attention when she wore it. He had arranged a private room close to the mess and the prospect of being able to retire to solitude was a wonderful alleviation. She musn’t think of him being depressed at Xmas as they would have a very merry day in the battery.

Hoped to see Robert soon if he could find him in Dunkirk. was sorry she hadn’t see Robert and that Nancy wasn’t more forthcoming.Robert was a good person but his great fault was to value applause more than merit. That might be too hard but he did like publicity far too much.

He had ordered a pair of spectacles. Had been having headaches for the last two days and had hardly read anything which was depressing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Sends his Christmas wishes for her and describes the new room he has moved into a short distance from the mess. He would be able to spend a great deal of time there except for occasional duties as orderly officer and a French class he was going to start for a few of the men.

Morning - the bed was comfortable. He was busy writing Xmas letters and would write to Mary and Mary Ann. He was annoyed they had rushed them out of the Holt but it wasn’t their fault. He thought it was Fletcher’s fault as he should have found out that demobilisation would be taken out of the hands of the War Office as soon as the armistace was signed and so applied for his release before the armistace and then let him refuse if the war had continued. He should have let them know at once that the arrangements had fallen through.

Was glad she was getting on well about servants. £35 sounded a lot for wages but supposed paying extra was worth it for good servants. Hadn’t heard if he had secured the purchase of the painting in Paris. What would she do about labour for the garden at the Holt? It might take 9 months to get demobilised but might not take that long.

Had two photos of her and Clare on his mantlepiece. Sends his love to her father, Mildred and Marjorie, the Lawrence Turners and the Haves Turners.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Thanks her for sending the mittens, towels and calling cards.

After working hours they had a long meal in the evening for which they made a rule for sociability. He liked his companions very well.

Yesterday an old acquaintance turned up – his first tutor in college at Winchester. They were all to be examined at the end and he would be happy to come half way down. Most of the tests so far had been physical and despite his weak right side he had done fairly well. Today they had loaded against time. He was one of two that had to lift the shells and put them in the breech. It wasn’t easy to load quickly and neatly with a 100lb weight. They had also had lectures in the drill hall and there was a certain amount of standing around which the men found trying.

He had written to Miss Whittaker to make arrangements for her [Ruth] to pay 30s a week and have a trial week or fortnight.
He had learned by heart a list of what the nine at the gun and 4 others have to carry as hand props. It was an incredible number with such words to describe the equipment.

Sends his love to all at Westbrook.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from The Waldorf-Astoria, New York [letterhead]

His agent, Keedick, had met him from the boat and taken him to the hotel. He had arranged a few lecture dates but was waiting to see how it caught on. He had been to see a melodrama at the Broadhurst Theatre which was where he was due to give lectures on 4 and 11 February. He had been interviewed by 4 pressmen and they had gone away happy. Had a long talk with a young man who circulated to the press information about the hotel’s distinguished visitors. The young man had told him of a self made industrial magnate who had said education was a waste of time and they tried to set up an animated discussion by getting him [Mallory] to say all the mountaineers on the expedition were men of science or that mental training had more to do with the matter than physique. He thought this was very childish and that Americans were boyish.

Describes the architecture of the buildings, the skyscrapers, his admiration of the Public Library on 5th Avenue, and the streets at night.

It had been nice to be in the theatre where he was to lecture. The acting had been slow and the audience very simple. He would have to change his style of lecturing but thought he would be able to get hold of them.

His social engagements were not very satisfactory but realised he had few introductions and hoped people who had promised to write to friends had done so.

The prices were astonishing - 7d for 3 bits of toast at breakfast and 1s for an orange.

He had found Mr Murray’s address as he wanted to get his book on Boswell published in America.

In a postscript he says he is enclosing an American advertisement, he describes his room and where he is sitting, and tells her to keep this letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

To show her what life was like he would describe two scenes. Scene I 12.30am to 1.30am – Noise of several hooters and the great bell clanging. Hurried figures moving in the street or standing at the doors of houses all wearing a mask with goggles. The gun numbers hasten to the gun carrying a large parcel on their tummies from which a snake seems to leap up to their mouths. All stand around for an hour imagining they see gas in the air. Then when its been established gas has not come their way they all troop back to bed.

Scene II – long grass and the breeze of early summer rustling the trees. Two men in the middle of a garden space looking at the sky through field glasses for hostile aeroplanes. A figure lying in a camp armchair idly reading a novel and another by him on the grass. Occasionally look skyward too.

He was sitting out now towards dinner time. Occasionally could hear a field gun going off but chiefly could hear the soft whizz of shells. Only 10 mins since their band had stopped – trombone, melodion, penny whistle, tambourine (very homemade) and Bell on the flute.

There were many idle moments but next week he would be on duty and his responsibilities would be greater. His stomach was out of sorts possibly caused by a stew and he couldn’t eat.

She is not to be alarmed when he talks about gas as the respirators were very efficient and not too bad to wear and they were far enough away to have plenty of warning. He is afraid the poor fellows in the trenches must get caught sometimes.

Sends his love to all at Birkenhead.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 19 1916'

He wouldn’t get away until the Captain got back as Bell was going home and then would probably get command of a Siege Battery. This was very good for him and he was glad for that reason but he was feeling much depressed as Bell was the only one he wanted to talk to. If he was left with Lithgow he would probably go off his head.

He wouldn’t write a proper letter as it would be too gloomy. They had a thaw which was no good for observation. He had to go to the tapping station in case he was needed. Four hours of standing doing absolutely nothing but with a very nice party of signallers so he didn’t mind. It was impossible to get warm. Was hoping for a letter from her but the post was uncertain again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

His stay had come to a sudden end as Trafford had been called away to take command in the absence of the Colonel.

Had a good solitary walk and played football on the previous day and his ankle held up. In the evening they went to Amiens to dine. Had an amusing evening and got the Mayor of Amiens to sing two songs. The waitresses as well as themselves sang and they toasted until after 10pm and he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

The unstrafed country was pleasant and he wished the battery would move back to the place they first stayed in after landing in Calais. The constraint of unmitigated shellholes and barbed wire was deadening to ones faculties.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had written asking him to take advantage of an Army Council order and return to Charterhouse. Had agreed to the application being made as soon as the Armistice was declared as he was keen to return as soon as possible. Asks her to tell the O'Malleys about it [they were tenants at the Holt] so they could find alternative accommodation.

Thanks her for the flour and advises about what cakes she should send out and at what intervals.

Likes the photo of her and Berry. Refers to comments she made in her last letter in which she said he made different appearances in her mind and that he thought they weren't all very agreeable. Asks whether he appears as a domestic tyrant irritable and unkind. Says things will be different when they are living together again and that she need not have any fears for the future.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 19 1916'

It was extraordinarily quiet with hardly a gun firing. It had been raining and he was afraid the bad weather had stopped their push. All the land they had established was no better thana bog and very slippery. Much worse than on July 1st. There wasn’t a square inch for 2000 yards unaffected by shell fire and not a blade of grass to be seen.

Comments on the account of her journey in her letter.

The Major of another battery had been a guest at dinner. He was thrilled to hear it was [Austin] Earl’s battery and hoped to see him today.
Planned to write to his tailor and order a new pair of breeches and a tunic.

[Postscript] – had received her letters and photos of Clare which he liked very much.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes the musical life in camp with men performing on the piano, banjo and singing.

The was even less to do on a wet day than a fine one. He had written bravely to Geoffrey [Young] who’s address he got from his father who said he was ‘going on well’.

Had received bad news from his mother about Avie’s John [i.e. his brother in law] who had had three heart attacks recently and was thin and weak. Avie’s former doctor had joined up and was stationed there although not in their mess. He was going o go round and see him and believed he was a charming man.

His train had been delayed on the journey back the previous night. It had started raining heavily as he got on his bike, and the lamp blew out. As he was taking the short corner into camp too, too fast because his brakes were inadequate, a violent gust took him and in almost pitch darkness he suffered a severe side slide.

Had received a letter from Geoffrey Keynes with a postscript from his wife Margaret who sent Ruth her congratulations. She was expecting a baby too. He wouldn’t be able to see them as they had settled in Sussex rather than Hampshire.

Had been thinking of getting Jelli for a concert at Charterhouse.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Acknowledges receipt of pears and apples and approves of the cake box which they reused to pack cups for the move. Thanks her for the prunes but says he can buy them in Corbie [struck through]. Was pleased with the potpourri and will give some to Earl whose battery is close by.

Started his new dugout but didn’t have time to cover it. Thought they were to have fine weather but it started raining in the night and he had slept in the Mess room [includes a plan]. Rain had washed mud down the stairs and it was disgusting. They were be able to settle in if they have some dry days.

Discusses German food shortages and whether Romania can hold on.

Bell had been awarded the Military Cross.

20 Oct - a very bright day and cold east wind with a perceptible frost.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Chiblung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I don’t know whether you will easily find this place on the map. We have come north from Tinkye, avoiding unpleasant customers at Chushar and Gyanka Nampa & this valley is divided from that in which Rongkon lies by a low range of hills - we are encamped just at the corner of the Chiblung Chu; Sanko Ri & the ridge where Somervell & I climbed in 1922 is our view to the west.

Today – at last – an English mail has reached us. I have had a very nice long letter from you and also a picture of the children enclosed with the photos from my American friend Schwab illustrating his expedition to Mt Clemenceau (did you notice the one of Mt Farrar & Mt Mallory?). I’m very glad to have the children’s picture, but you don’t send one of yourself naughty girl. Nor do you send me any cuttings this mail, nor the Nation which I hoped you would be sending – though really European affairs are so far away & news is so old that I’ve not much enthusiasm about them. Karma Paul who brought our mail also brought news of the General, whom he left in Phari; he must be pretty ill still as he was unable to walk and was to be carried down to Chumbi; Hingston will accompany him to Ganktok & should rejoin us at the B.C. [Base Camp] about the middle of May. Meanwhile Beetham gets on slowly & can’t be said to have got rid of dysentery yet let alone picking up after it - however I think he’s on the mend.

I heard from Mary today with news of the weather in Colombo & it looks as if the earliest breath of the monsoon is a fortnight early! But that doesn’t necessarily mean much. The bad sign is the weather here which is distinctly more unsettled than in ’22 & these last two nights have been unhealthily warm. Today we have been in a regular storm area though no rain or snow has actually fallen here.

April 24 at Shekar Dzong.

I’ve left it rather late to go on with this letter – that is partly because one way or another I have been spending a good many spare moments on the elaboration of our plans. The difficult work of allotting tasks to men has now been done – N [Norton]& I consulted & he made a general announcement after dinner 2 days ago. The question as to which of the first two parties should be led by Somervell & which by me was decided on two grounds (1) on the assumption that the oxygen party would be less exhausted & be in the position of helping the other it seemed best that I should use oxygen & be responsible for the descent (2) it seemed more likely on his last year’s performance that Somervell would recover after a gasless attempt to be useful again later. It was obvious that either Irvine or Odell should come with me in the first gas party. Odell is in charge of the gas, but Irvine has been the engineer at work on the apparatus – what was provided was full of leaks & faults & he has practically invented a new instrument using up only a few of the old parts & cutting out much that was useless & likely to cause trouble; moreover the remaining parties had to be considered and it wouldn’t do to make Irvine the partner of Geoffrey Bruce as they would lack mountaineering experience; & so Irvine will come with me. He will be an extraordinarily stout companion, very capable with the gas & with cooking apparatus; the only doubt is to what extent his lack of mountaineering experience will be a handicap; I hope the ground will be sufficiently easy.

Norton if he is fit enough will go with Somervell or, if he seems clearly a better goer at the moment, Hazard. Beetham is counted out, though he’s getting fitter. Odell & Geoffrey Bruce will have the important task of fixing Camp V at 25,500.

The whole difficulty of fitting people in so that they take a part in the assault according to their desire or ambition is so great that I can’t feel distressed about the part that falls to me. The gasless party has the better adventure, and as it has always been my pet plan to climb the mountain gasless with two camps above the Chang La it is naturally a bit disappointing that I shall be with the other party. Still the conquest of the mountain is the great thing & the whole plan is mine & my part will be a sufficiently interesting one & will give me perhaps the best chance of all of getting to the top. It is almost unthinkable with this plan that I shan’t get to the top; I can’t see myself coming down defeated. And I have very good hopes that the gasless party will get up; I want all 4 of us to get there, & I believe it can be done. We shall be starting by moonlight if the morning is calm & should have the mountain climbed if we’re lucky before the wind is dangerous.

This evening 4 of us have been testing the oxygen apparatus, and comparing the new arrangements with the old. Irvine has managed to save weight, 4 or 5 lbs, besides making a much more certain as well as more convenient instrument. I was glad to find I could easily carry it up the hill even without using the gas, & better of course with it. On steep ground where one has to climb more or less the load is a great handicap & at this elevation a man is better without it. The weight is about 30 lbs, rather less. There is nothing in front of one’s body to hinder climbing & the general impression I have is that it is a perfectly manageable load. My plan will be to carry as little as possible, go fast & rush the summit. Finch & Bruce tried carrying too many cylinders.

I’m still very fit & happy. Tibet is giving us many beautiful moments. With these abnormal weather conditions it is much warmer than in ’22 & the whole journey is more comfortable. It is nice having one’s own poney – mine is a nice beast to ride, but he’s not in good condition, & today has had a nasty attack of colic; however he’ll have a long holiday to come soon & I hope he’ll fatten up & arrive fit & well in Darjeeling were I shall sell him. Only 4 marches, starting tomorrow morning to the Rongbuk monastery! We’re getting very near now. On May 3 four of us will leave the Base Camp & begin the upward trek & on May 17 or thereabouts we should reach the summit. I’m eager for the great event to begin.

Now dearest I must say Good Night to you & turn into my cosy sleeping bag, where I shall have a clean nose sheet tonight, one of the two you made to fix with patent fasteners. Considering how much grease my face requires & gets that device has been very useful.

Great love to you always.

The telegram announcing our success if we succeed will precede this letter I suppose; but it will mention no names. How you will hope that I was one of the conquerors. And I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Ever your loving
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the Grand Hotel, Littlestone-on-Sea, Kent

He had left Weymouth and been allocated quarters in Lydd which was an empty house and he was kitless. He had finally got permission to travel on to Littlestone-on-Sea and he was glad of dinner at 9pm when he arrived.

It was only a 3 week course and Friday morning leave was a myth. He wouldn't finish until 12.30pm on Saturdays and would probably have evening work 5-6pm. He had to be at Lydd that morning. He would try New Romney for rooms which was 1 1/2 miles away. He would send her an address if he could but if she didn't hear from him she was to bike along and enquire.

He had been trying to find rooms for them and had talked to different landladies but he hadn't finalised anything yet. Wonders what Clare's weight was that week.

Letter from George Mallory to Ruth from Yatung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

It seems I ought to get off a letter to you tomorrow morning in order to be certain of catching the mail. I don’t know that I have a very great deal to tell you. The great thing is that I have had your second letter & those from Clare & Berry. Dearest one I think it wonderful of you to settle down & be cheerful & enterprising and sociable. It must be difficult I know to start in with Cambridge life by yourself. You evidently managed to let Frances see something of life & she must have enjoyed herself; she kindly wrote me a note by this mail too. I am glad also to hear that Mr Blunt has not deserted as I rather feared he had done. It was good of him really to stay away when he felt that he couldn’t do much in the garden. I am sorry you have had such a cold March. I expect you will be very glad to enjoy some spring weather away from Cambridge.

All goes well with me. The march from Sedongchen to Gnathong [Gnatong] was glorious, Kanchenjunga & his neighbour appearing magnificently; I haven’t seen any distant mountain view before from this part & we counted ourselves very lucky. Gnathong [Gnatong] (12,500 ft) was not so cold this time, though the veranda was bunged up with snow, & from their [there] we made two easy stages here, stopping the night in a little rest house an hour down this side of Jelap La. Norton & I walked up to the pass (14,500 ft) together & were pleased to think that we felt fitter than last year. I certainly am feeling very fit now. I sleep long & well & can walk as fast as anyone.

We have had a few good signs of Spring – on the Sikkim side a most lovely little primula flourishing from 9,000 to 11,000 ft, with the habit of our English primrose only somewhat smaller & neater, and of a delicious crimson colour; and Rhododendron Falconeri, a big bright red fellow was flowering freely a bit lower. On this side we have another primula, denticulata, paler in colour & of the polyanthus type, very freely scattered over the meadows; & we have our old friend Daphne, I know not what species. The conifers too in this valley are all showing green.

It has been a wonderfully pleasant journey so far, with bright sun & pleasant conditions altogether. And it has been a very jolly company. We found the first contingent here no less happy than ourselves. The General (entrenous) has not been quite well & has stayed here today while Norton takes on the first party. The slack day here has been very pleasant. I have had a long ramble with Irvine.

I shall wish you Good Night & send this off brief as it is. Remember me to all my friends – but I forget you won’t be seeing them at present. I wonder where this letter will find you. It should reach you near about the 1st of May. Perhaps you have forgotten the significance of that date - will you think of me very specially on May 1 & may it be as good a day as it was in 1914.
Please thank Clare & Berry very much for their letters which I much enjoyed; & I liked the cards with flower pictures. It will be sometime yet before John can write me letters!

Now farewell dearest love. I waive you many kisses & see you smiling & happy & resolved so to be even during the month of May.

Ever your loving George.

I address this to Westbrook as I should like it to find you there & if you are with them will you please give my love to father Hugh & Marjorie; & in case you meet them remember me to Allen & Scott & the Fletchers. I shall be writing to Evelyn I hope. I am sorry for what you say about Alan, but a very young man’s view is generally exaggerated. I wish myself that A. would look tidier; I don’t know that it matters about his working provided he uses his mind somehow as he clearly does. My love to him when you see him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Monday

Cottie’s party had arrived and he quite liked her husband. They had been to Tryfaen and climbed the Central Buttress, five on the rope - Bertie Graham was stiff and slow and Owen was quite active and promising. Cottie had been the greatest encumbrance to their progress as her muscles were feeble but she had lead a bit towards the top which was better. She would soon recover herself. His boots were a great success and he was feeling fit. Ursula [Nettleship] was expected to arrive that day and Hugh would leave the following day. He had bathed in the lake above the hotel that morning for the first time. He had been reading some interesting essays by Jane Harrison, one was about the prejudices faced by women and what their position ought to be.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 2 1916'

The heat had been trying but he was getting used to it. He walked up with a ruck sack filled with a water bottle and it served to carry his coat. Expeditions reminded him of the Alps because of their adventurous nature, code of conduct and companions.

Germans had been fairly quiet. He had returned three nights ago. Trench was filthy. Refused to sleep in a deep dark hole so carved out a hole in the side of the trench and had reinforced it with wood. Trench was infested with rats. The area was dotted with white crosses and swarms of black beetles.

Mr Quinn, who had gone to another battery, had been severely wounded in the leg. Mr Glen had gone to hospital with gastritis but would soon return.

Discusses good news from Russia and the stiff fighting where they were.

Was glad Sidney Cockerell’s visit to Westbrook had gone well and that she had given him a copy of his pamphlet.

Describes countryside behind the lines and travelling to find the Field Cashier, calling in to look around a chateau on the way.

Acknowledges safe arrival of tea and prunes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 2 1916' [it was actually written in 1917] after his return to France from leave

Comments on his recent time at home during his leave.

Had been assigned to look after a Colonel but said he wasn’t a valet. It was a cushy job, very quiet and safe not far from the batteries. He shared a dug out with Robinson, the acting adjutant. It leaked a bit but they had a fine oil stove. He would rather be alone but was happy enough.

They lived less under ground than in the battery. The office was a canvas hut, the mess room was a tunnel shaped chamber. There was a gay atmosphere, the doctor was ragged a good deal and officers from the batteries were entertained a good deal - Anderson from 109 had spent the previous evening with them.

Hopes his breeches will arrive soon as he could see himself tramping about observation posts as his knowledge of that work was his chief utility. The reconnaissance report he had written was being considered by Royal Artillery Headquarters.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory written from France

She was keeping up their correspondence better than him in the circumstances. He was still hoping every day for news of his release. Was trying to write his lecture [on civics] but it was too vast a subject. Was glad the Head Master had been to see her. He had heard from Allen who had no hopes for a speedy release and who said the Head Master showed no interest in the subject.

What plans did she have for moving into the Holt? Thinks he will need some bookcases. Had his case arrived from Paris?

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'May 2 1917'

He supposed he had been in the country for a year now. Holidays weren’t so frequent now as they used to be. It wouldn’t be so bad to get a month’s leave. Supposing he were to come home suddenly and walk into the orchard and find her lying under the trees. Or she could join him in the wood and see the flowers. Yesterday when of all days they should have been together he was condemned to sit all day in a trench and she was no doubt sewing in the nursery.

Life wasn’t very exciting, they were having a slack time and enjoying the sunshine. Dunbar’s absence had a soothing effect. He had finished Well’s book on the war which was very interesting but the end part on European civilisation was not very satisfactory to him and explains why giving his opinion on having religion without churches.

Thanks her for her parcel of sausages, potted meat and camp pie. Was amused to hear about Marjorie’s last place and interested in Clutton Brock’s views on the war. Thinks they need to put things right outside Germany by having self governing states in place of various oppressed members of the Austro Hungarian Empire, breaking down German power in Turkey and Bulgaria. If only they could go on until they could put matters straight but they could only go on until it was evident that they couldn’t.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Approaching Colombo’

Brief Summary
Describes fellow passengers. Many on board had been ill. Describes the unquiet ocean. Recovered from a bad headache. They were approaching Colombo.

Detailed Summary
He had been thinking of her a great deal, particularly yesterday on the anniversary of their engagement. Wishes she had been on the voyage with him. He describes his fellow passengers including a ‘Black and Tan’ who worked in the Middle East, the Colonel and Mrs Frazer who were table companions, Mrs Vernon and two other ladies. There were also a number of unpleasant youths. Thought that the people in Second Class looked more interesting but there are obstacles preventing him making their acquaintance. Many on board, including the Captain, were ill but they were being cured with castor oil. He had mild symptoms and had been up in the night and had cut down on his consumption of food.

He had a sense of the nearness of disaster or danger as the sea was as deeply evil as it was attractive. The ocean was so calm at times so that you forgot the violence of which it was capable. He was interested in the contrast of the well behaved passengers on the boat and the ocean outside. It was a gloomy letter and he had not made much progress on his book Geoffrey. He was expecting it to be very hot at Colombo where they should arrive the next morning.

[letter continues later] - They were just reaching Colombo and he felt very cheerful after his splitting headache last night.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’.

He could hear General Bruce dictating his report on their progress in a loud voice while Morris took it down on a typewriter.

They had failed to establish the basecamp at the required point and were now at his old 2nd base camp just below the foot of the glacier. It was a very good place but three more camps would be necessary between there and the North Col whereas they had hoped to manage with two. However with the aid of some Tibetans and a few yaks they hoped to get what they wanted up to the East Rongbuk Stream during the next few days and to use this dump as a sleeping place for journeys up but not for journeys down. He thought that on the whole it was a satisfactory result and there would be great advantages in bringing back everyone for rest at this place rather than higher up.

He had been writing his diary notes for the last few days and would send them to her in the next mail. The differences in the frozen county now from his remembrances of it were 'most striking' and everyone was duly impressed by Everest. The weather was unsettled but he expected many perfect days before the monsoon set in. They would be warm in this camp and not too cold higher up. Everyone was well and cheerful.

He had to go and arrange stores to go up.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Had met a Carthusian called Chamier who had been a member of his old modern sixth and was a particularly nice boy.

Yesterday started in mist and rain and he had done drearily in the mud to a half way house (old German dugout) to wait on the weather.

When he got to the trench he expected it to be half full of liquid mud but the Infantry had cleared the wort of it. No shelling of them all day. Platnauer arrived just as he was turning in. They talked for a bit and then he asked him to dinner. Had celebrated Casey’s 21st birthday.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Was awaiting his movement orders so his plans for the weekend were uncertain. Recounts more about his time at Winchester College the day before. Had received a letter from Hoenni telling him that he had proposed a duet with Jelli who wasn't in her class as a fiddler. The boots had arrived from Anderson's.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters from her and was interested in all her London plans and sent his love to all the people she hoped to meet. Hoped she would get to see Doris [sister in law, married to Trafford Leigh-Mallory] as he wanted to know what was wrong.

Was pleased she was getting on so well with Montessori and that Clare liked the buttoning frame. She should exclude other sorts of toys now. Mrs Irvine would be an excellent person to work with. She had always been friendly. He wasn’t so sure about Mr Irvine but thought he must be a good chap and it made a great difference having congenial neighbours.

Thought there was a good chance of Germany accepting terms. The surrender of Austria and Turkey was very opportune.

Had spent an amusing day yesterday making the shelves for the curtain. There was a certain amount of fitting to be done but he had done a good job. He had fallen in love with the curtains and wondered if they could be used for their bedroom at the Holt.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Suggests the possibility of Ruth living in a small village nearby so he could live with her. Had walked to the top of a hill and described seeing a natural amphitheatre which consoled him for the shock of finding himself in a military camp. Dinner on the first night was very solemn and he addressed one remark to each of his neighbours and men opposite but no one opened conversation with him and there was no general talk. Describes the previous night’s dinner which began badly but improved and his neighbour was ‘quite human and interested’ and it was a pleasant little party.

His bed wasn’t a brilliant success as the straw was so hard. The camp was well arranged and hospitable and he had a good hot bath before dinner last night.

He was planning on walking to Itchen Abbas for lunch at the Plough Inn, then walk up the river and back over the hills.

[letter continues later in pencil] – the Plough Inn didn’t have any food so he had gone to the Black Swan and had white bread and yellow butter (not the military variety) and there was raspberry jam and white sugar lumps.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 20 1916'

Has been planning to start writing a book. Lithgow had sent him for some money for men going on special leave. Had been wonderful to be at the rest camp and they hadn’t yet been told when they would have to leave fears it would affect leave to return home which wouldn’t be before November at least.

He would leave the arrangements about money for her to work out with Mr Roxworthy. He would like some apples. He had received a ginger cake and a chocolate cake. Asks if she has heard where Willett and Thomson are. Had received a good letter from David Pye.