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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

22 June – had received her letters and cake. A good cook had arrived with the other half of the battery so things in the Mess were better.

23 June – had to stop writing last evening to do more mathematics and registering of targets and had been very busy since then. Was delighted with his birthday present. Comments on her visit to Mary and Ralph’s.

There had been a great storm that afternoon when he was working in the ex-messroom with Lithgow. They had made inadequate arrangements to carry water away. Had to make some damming arrangements. The tent he shared with Bell had been blown away and their things were exposed to the pelting rain. Wondered how he would manage for dry bedding although the weather had turned warmer in the last couple of days.

Was feeling tremendously strung up for great things and hoped they would begin soon.

Comments on Stephen and Bridget’s relationship. Wishes he could talk with her more and although they were ok for officers now it would be a while before he was due leave.

Asks her to thank Clutton-Brock for his book which he had received.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Somerset Club, Boston’ letterhead writing paper

He would soon be on the Saxonia on his way home. He had been busy with a few lectures and had greatly enjoyed Princeton. Back in New York he had seen Allston Burr, interviewed pressmen, and lectured at St. Paul’s School. There was currently 8 to 10 ft of snow melting steadily.

He was sorry she was still having trouble with the car and that being stuck near the top of Firth Hill with petrol trouble was very bad.

He agreed with her suggestion that she wouldn’t come to meet him further than Godalming Station.

He wasn’t altogether disappointed by the American visit. It had been intensely interesting and had given him a real insight into Americans attitudes and opinions. He liked them on the whole very much, far more than he expected. They were extraordinarily modest and humble and pathetically anxious to be thought of well by English people.

He ends the letter to attend a luncheon party.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The mess was very quiet. He had been very sleepy all day after an exciting night. Although he was never away from the old battle area the spirit of autumn was everywhere and there was nothing like the healing power of nature especially trees.

He thought much about Charterhouse and imagined teaching and dealing with boys there again and the prospect was pleasing in many ways.

That afternoon he had been to A. [Arras] and had explored the outlying parts. Some of the buildings had been damaged but very few in the south west of the town had been seriously damaged. He had talked to more than one lot of refugees. He had returned with a good supply of vegetables - cabbages, brussel sprouts, onions and celery, in his rucksack.

The post was unreliable because they didn’t have their own censorship stamps as they should and the letters had to pass through so many different and changing hands that he feared she would never receive some of his letters.

He hadn’t yet thought deeply about the latest German Note although it didn’t strike him as satisfactory. It was evident democratic opinion didn’t yet control Germany and they had to wait for that but he felt that miracle would happen.

He wanted very much to see Clutton-Brock’s book and asks her to order him a copy and send it out to him. He had almost finished George Young’s book about the Balkans which was very interesting. He had recently read George Eliot’s Silas Marner which was a very pretty story which she would like.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 23'

His hand was wobbly after driving in a stake with a very heavy maul. Was hoping he would get fit before he went climbing again. Intended to enjoy the late summer as there would be gloomy days afterwards.

Had been interested by Born in Exile [by George Gissing] which he describes.

Was sharing the work of the advanced section with Dunbar and describes his routine. Asks her to send out tea, about three packets of Mexican chocolate and a dozen soup squares.

He had seen Austin Earl twice more and describes his character. Had received a letter from Urquhart but felt too cynical to answer as he knew that he just wanted to hear how much danger he was in.

Looking at No. 4 gun under her camouflage of wire netting she looked quite a pleasant object but if Dante could see some of the terrible monsters out there he would write it was just what he needed for this inferno and would make drawings in his notebook (felt Dante was a notebook man). Thinks the inferno can’t have been such an unpleasant place. Compares his current situation and hell. Says hell is peopled by two kinds of bores – those with harsh insistent voices and the rest with polished manners. Asks her if she would rather go to Heaven or Hell. If Hell makes people aware that they were wrong, Heaven makes them no less conscious that they were right.

Asks her to copy out this letter for his mother. Hates to think of his letters going around his friends and this not to be among them as it was very like the real him.

Was glad she had spoken to Will and asks what he was doing.

Had just found four lice on a mackintosh cape on which he was sitting.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 2 1916'

His off day had been busy keeping an eye on various odd jobs and getting provisions for the men.
Glad she wa enjoying Aldeburgh and sea bathing.

Discusses the state of the war and the internal pressures in Germany.

3 Sept – Very busy morning on the battery with much fighting. Had seen prisoners passing by them which was a hopeful sign. Had been blessed with fine weather.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 24 1917'

Was a great pleasure to receive three letters from her yesterday and one today. He was delighted by the photos of Clare. Was sorry she wouldn’t have Diana with her and that the O’Malleys had had such bad luck over their house. Would like to hear from Mary Ann but supposes she is too busy. The chocolates she sent were a great success and the plums continued to be so. It would be a mistake to send more uncooked sausages as the weather should soon be really warm. Asks for his tent as the Germans had destroyed practically all their dug outs so they would be short of stores for the foreseeable future. Also wants her to send back his shirt and pyjamas but not the underclothes, ½ pint enamel mugs, and a small pocket torch with a metal filament lamp and six refills.

Gives his views about the Russians.

Asks her to send him Wells’s book as he had seen it reviewed and gathered that he was very unfair to the regular soldier.

Was feeling depressed and out of temper yesterday. They were living in very close quarters with seven of them living in the mess from tea time onwards. They were happy but noisy sand not much room for writing a letter or quiet reading. Had been on long walks, today with Lithgow and Glen and they investigated a very pleasant little copse. Was anxious t get in and help beat the enemy. Wasn’t depressed today but didn’t anticipate any very immediate action.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Gnatong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

His journal was a scholarly effort and his letters were more personal. The expedition had experienced problems with the mules carrying the expedition equipment, despite a day’s rest in Kanhi [village], and so local ponies were hired. He was happy to leave Darjeeling as Government House was rather trying.

He didn't get on with Howard-Bury and had difficulties with him and Raeburn. Marching was a slow business. Describes his daily routines. He often found himself with Wollaston admiring their surroundings. Had given a sick man a ride on his pony and gives details of the journey up the valley. Describes the flowers and the differences he observes as they rise in elevation. He compares what he is seeing to the environment of the Alps. Describes heavenly meadows 'indescribably desirable’ as they travel upwards, and his negative observations of town of Gnatong. For the first time it was cold and fresh and he was delighted to meet the cool air. As he walked up the last 3,000 ft he felt very slightly the effects of the height which pleased him as it seemed like the real thing. They were leaving the last village in Sikkim and were soon to cross the Jelep La into Tibet.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was glad she was recovering [from pneumonia]. Wishes he could be home with her. The King was going to Paris on 29th which was the same day he would go if he got leave.

He had a heavy cold yesterday so hadn’t written to her as he was too tired after dinner. Looked forward to living with her and being happy in their home. She must be patient with him and they would learn to live with one another and be happy.

They had not yet moved but he expected they would that day. They had to give up most of their trucks which would be very annoying.

He was delighted her father had begun to walk again. Hopes he will be strong again.

He was reading Tess of the d’Urbevilles which had wonderful descriptions of dairy farms in the Frome Valley and she would love it although it was another tragedy.

It was still very cold but bright and he had walked into Arras to buy stuff for the mess. The car was out of action as the rear axle was broken. When it broke the wheel came off and careered down the road nearly upsetting a despatch rider.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He had just finished Tess of the d'Urbevilles and talks about his reaction to the story and Hardy's writing.

25 Nov - he had to go to Arras to a Court of Inquiry which was a tiresome business. The Major had toothache last night. He was due to have dinner with Trafford next Wednesday to celebrate the aniversary of him taking over No. 8 Squadron. He would be in Paris on Friday but would probably miss seeing the King as he was due to go on Thursday. Planned on going to the Bibliotèque Nationale.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 24 1916'

Bell was playing the flute and they may soon be singing. Dunbar was keen and knew many songs. Wood had one song - Clementine. Casey takes no part. Says a book of general English and Scotch songs and some folk songs would be very useful and ask her to try and get one next time she is in London.

Tiresome day spent collecting stuff for mess and canteen. Low heavy clouds and rain meant very little firing. He had finished The Woman in White. He would have the opportunity to continue writing his book soon.

Describes his dugout and draws a plan of it.

Likes to hear about her working in the garden at the Holt. Talks about the neighbours and asks her to rake up all the Charterhouse news and send it to him. Asks for Pollly’s address and says she shouldn’t have the bother of having to copy out his letters for his friends when he had time to write to them himself.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 24 1916'

Was feeling a bit better. Her letter had arrived quickly. Still no date for leaving rest camp. She wasn’t to be anxious about winter as there would be less fighting and so less chances to be killed. He had his job and time passed quickly but it must be harder for her. Thought Clare must have changed since he last saw her.

Was pessimistic about the war and asks why they hadn’t done anything about Salonica. Everything in that area depended on Romania coming in which would only give two months to cut communications between Germany and Turkey before winter set in. Thought that with Romania's help Russia would be able to beat Austria. Hungary would be less willing to make terms if Romania cames in. Very strongly thought they should take stock after the Autumn campaigns and offer terms accordingly. Didn’t doubt they would win eventually. Thought Germany could defend herself for at lest two more years and practically nothing was worth two more years of war.

25 Aug – had finished the letter but had mislaid her Aldeburgh address, which he had now found, so was writing more. He would be in camp all day and was reading a French book by Rene Bazin about Breton peasants. Discusses places in the book and why he would like to visit Brittany and how he views rural England from a distance.

Hadn’t yet received the apples or grapefruit and asks where she sent them. Suggests that she use wooden boxes and tells her how to make them. Thinks a plum cake is the one most likely to survive the transport. Doesn’t need any more soup tablets.
Had just received and eaten a grapefruit which was delicious but barely ripe so he would save the others.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 25 1917'

Comments on her letters saying she seemed very happy with her two babies. Didn't fully understand what she meant by saying she felt completely grown up now unless it was that life had filled out. Wasn't sure he felt older since he had come out to fight but did feel less puzzled by life.

They were having an easy time but had started to dig as the Germans showed a slight disposition to nastiness. He would be sorry to return to a dug out but must have one ready in case it became necessary. His servant and many more had been inoculated.

Describes looking for cellars in a large villa that had been burned down.

Her parcel with Well's book had arrived and he had plenty to read as 10 numbers of The New Europe had arrived. Marvelled that his oil skin cape had been mended. He was very glad to have some chocolate. Wanted more refills for his cooker.

They had heard little news of the battle. The French were doing nothing more at present and there seemed little opportunity to snatch more territory at present. The Germans would have reserves up in strength. They needed the Russians now but how much were they good for?

Reminisces about a trip to Winchelsea and Rye in the spring.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on board the S.S. Sardinia, on ‘P. & O.S.N. Co.’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes daily routine and exercise. Opinion of Port Said and Suez Canal.

Detailed Summary
It had been very hot since they had left Port Said and the air had been absolutely saturated until today when they had got out of the Red Sea. He was always moist and sticky and the nights especially seemed very stuffy.

Early morning was the most pleasant time of day. He had been doing gymnastic performances and a course of exercises prescribed by Muller. He tried to write before breakfast at 9am, and afterwards wrote in the smoking room. Before dinner at 7pm he pottered about with deck games. In the evening he generally played Bridge and had a stroll round the deck afterward. The time passed very easily and the only difficulty was getting sufficient sleep as it was too warm. The morning exercises were making a difference and he would arrive in India as fit as a fiddle. Doesn't think he will receive the mail delivered in Port Said at Aden and supposes he’ll receive mail at Darjeeling. If he could get out at Madras and take the train he could be in Darjeeling on the 9 May. They will soon arrive in Aden. Port Said was not in the least exciting and the Suez Canal was extremely dull. He had been bitten by mosquitos.

He couldn't send any Turkish Delight from Port Said because of some complication about a sugar duty.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Monday 25 July' [Monday was actually 24 July]

Yesterday was adventurous mending a wire and dodging shells. Was with two young fellows. Then he went to the observation post.
Comments on news that his battery had been accused of shelling their own troops in a trench. Very anxious and tried to work out if it was true as it would have been his fault. Turned out it couldn’t possibly have been their battery so all was well.

Comments on the labour shortages there would be after the war and how all moral sense was lacking in so many trade unionists.
Acknowledges receipt of three copies of the Times.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 25'

Had seen Mr Thompson’s name in the casualty list but he wasn’t the same man that had joined with him. Describes how dangerous his position was and that it was nothing for her to worry about. His name had been put forward to do observation work from an aeroplane but he didn’t think it was on the cards that he would leave the battery.

Her parcel had arrived minus the tea and prunes. The potatoes and carrots had arrived. Asks for a chocolate cake next time and buns if they wouldn’t go stale.

Were reduced to four as Quinn had gone to another battery which had suffered casualties so they would be short staffed until Quinn returned.

Liked to think of her in the gardens of Westbrook writing to him. Points out her regular spelling mistakes and askes her to explain Willet Time and if it had anything to do with the Daylight Saving Bill.

Explains what he wants her to do about money and paying off their debt.

When he had finished Wings of a Dove he had thought how glad he was that she was so pure and true. He would have wobbled much more without her. No shadow could come between them unless she considered it a shadow that she couldn’t spell. He wants her and asks her to be as brave as she was constant and true.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been on duty all night. Describes the sound and sight of the guns firing on the German lines.

Feared the spiritual side of life did not have a good chance out there – not the intellectual or aesthetic part and the chance to read Clutton-Brock’s book had a revivifying effect.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 25 1917'

Discusses the move and how much including books had accumulated. He had rescued her lovely bowl from the mess kit and was going to pack it into his rucksack. It was nearly a year since she had painted it at New Romney. It was easier to face another year after the last one but he could do with three weeks of New Romney to start with. She must be prepared for a bad time with the post but he didn’t expect a dangerous time for the present.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Hotel Mount Everest, Darjeeling [Letterhead].

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

These have been full days since we came up here on Friday & tomorrow, Wednesday early, we start for Kalimpong - so that our stay has been short enough, & much taken up with packing & arrangements of one sort or another. Norton has got the whole organisation under his hand & we shall economise much time & money by dumping some of our boxes en route: all the stores for the high camps have practically been settled already. He is going to be an ideal 2nd to Bruce.

The party looks very very fit altogether. We had a very hot journey through India. The hot weather apparently came with a rush this year just before we landed & the temperature must have been up to 100 a good part of the time we were in the train, as it was supposed to be 99 in Calcutta; its a grimy dirty business & I was glad to get to the end of our train journeying. I was feeling a bit short of sleep otherwise very fit. The only doubts I have are whether the old ankle one way or another will cause me trouble.

Four of us walked up to Senschal Hill yesterday afternoon to see the magnolias. I was trying my new boots from Dewberry; they are going to be good but my right ankle didn’t feel too happy.

The magnolias were magnificent, a better show than last year - four different sorts white & deep cerise pink & two lighter pinks between - they so look startlingly bright on a dark hillside.

The country here is very dry at present & a haze of heat blown up from the plains hangs about. we haven’t seen the mountains until this morning when Kanchen has very timely made an appearance. Somervell & Odell besides the General, Geoffrey Bruce & Norton etc were here before us; it was very nice to see S. again & Odell is one of the best. Really it is an amazingly nice party altogether; one of the best is Hingston our M.O., an Irishman a quiet little man & a very keen naturalist. The only one I don’t yet know is Shebbeare, who belongs to the Forestry Department & is said to be a particularly nice man; he knows all about trees & shrubs which is a very good thing but nothing about flowers. So that we shall once more be without a real botanist.

We go to Kalimpong all together, as before, tomorrow and then separate in two parties; I shall be with the second, with Norton, Hingston, Irvine & Shebbeare I believe. Noel’s movements are independent; he is more than ever full of stunts; the latest in a Citroen tractor which some hour or another is to come into Tibet a pure ad of course (this may be a secret for the present).

The Everest Committee has now among us all a wonderful reputation for muddle and the latest is that after all they gave us the wrong address & the old one c/o Post Master, Darjeeling is correct. However I shall get your letters addressed to Yatung with little delay.

The English mail should have come in yesterday but the ship was 12 hrs late & we shan’t get it until today & consequently will have precious little time for answering.

I long to get your letter dear though it will only give me 3 days’ news.

How long is it since I left you? It will be four weeks on Friday. By now or very soon you will be leaving Cambridge for a time & won’t feel so lonely. I know you must have been feeling lonely some evenings; but you will have had Frances Wills part of the time & I hope you will have been out or had people to see you sometimes too. I expect the absence of me must make you feel less busy? Have you made a fresh start with china painting?

Dearest one, I often want you with me to enjoy things with & to talk over things & people quietly; and I want to take you in my arms & kiss your dear brown head. Here’s a great holiday time it seems & you not with me. But we’ll have a wonderful holiday together one of these days won’t we?

Later - The English mail has come in & I’ve had a letter from Mother but none from you. My dearest it is very disappointing. I hoped you would catch me at Darjeeling. Perhaps you directed to Yatung in which case I shall get your letter there in 7 days time.
I lunched with Her Excellency (what a title) Lady Lytton & her family today. Lady L. is really very nice but lord how folk can live with aides de camp hanging round! 2 here & presumably 2 more at Calcutta & one civilian one military secretary!

Much love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children.
Ever your loving
George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Acknowledges receipts of a batch of her letters and answers her questions – they encountered no submarines on the crossing, describes living arrangements which he shared with Bell, and his manservant who valets for him. Outlines the organisation within the battery with him and Bell alternating being on duty for a week at a time, and having special responsibility for one gun. Had continued working on the building project. Reassures her about the dangers of casual shelling. Had been complimented for setting a fine example to the men on the building works by visiting Generals. Had to clear a barn of straw. Asks her to send tea.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been a long way on the motorbike on filthy roads to get equipment for the building project. Bought supplies of food but the lemon squash and a tin of fish paste had broken and made a mess in the box on the bike. Was asked to tea in the farmhouse on his way back and was making friends with Captain Matheson. He was on duty that night. Thanks her for the cake.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 25 1915' [it is actually 1916]

The Captain thought, as they all did, that he did too much himself so they were taking it in turns doing the Battery Commander work. He had begun today and was in the Captain’s dugout and was in charge of the battery so far as shooting was concerned, orders from HQ, ammunition etc.

Yesterday he had been to the observation post taking Dunbar’s turn so he could get a job finished but the light was bad so he didn’t succeed. It was atrociously cold. Some pleasant infantry fellows were occupying the trench. They shared lunch and chatted around a fire.

Had been writing a report about his reconnaissance which was a voluntary stunt which be thought was interesting and hoped would be useful.

He was beginning to have little hope of leave in the near future. Had received her letters and was glad that Clare was better. It was splendid to hear of her standing. Didn’t want her to become bandy legged. The song books had arrived as well as a chocolate cake.

Thanked Mrs W. for her noble efforts.

He had managed to have a hot bath which was the first since he had been out there.

‘It’s been soaking wet all day’ is written up the margin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, '25.9.16'

Had been on night duty. For breakfast he boiled water to make tea, then put on a little porcelain dish in which he melted butter and fried two eggs with raspberry jam to follow. Then an apple. Had got the butter and eggs in Corbie where he had gone to get potatoes for the men. Had climbed an apple tree to shake down some apples. Thanks her for sending the cake and butter.

Was pleased by her account of Clare’s birthday and was anxious to see her again. Liked the photos and that she looked attractive when her face was in motion. Discussed Clare and her physical and intellectual development.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes his journey back to camp on the borrowed motorbike.

The Medical Board had given him one month’s ‘Home Service’ but he was sorry to say that didn’t mean he would be sent home. They could fairly reckon on 6 or 7 more weeks in England which didn’t seem very much. He would probably have six days leave.

That evening he was going to dine with the Courtneys and would look in on Rendall on the way as he had sent him an invitation for yesterday.

Wasn’t in the mood for writing to her as he was too hot.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Hotel Flanders’ [Letterhead], ‘Waiting Room, Sheffield Mass’

Brief Summary
Describes his trip to the opera, compares the audience at a classical concert with an English audience, gives his opinion on American women, their conversational skills and lack of intelligence, and his time staying with the Burrs in Boston which he enjoyed.

Detailed Summary
[Starts the letter on 25th Feb in the waiting room waiting for his train] - His impressions of America were more agreeable when he wasn’t in New York. Recaps his time in New York where he had felt ill before travelling to Boston.

He had attended the opera which was reputed to be done better there than anywhere else. He imagined it was the biggest opera house holding 5,000 people and was always full with the boxes being taken for the season. Wonders how many New Yorkers went to the opera because they loved it and how many went for other reasons. The ladies pushed forward in their gorgeous dresses and diamonds and pearls and were illuminated as though they were the sight everyone had come to see. Compares the display of wealth and splendour with France in the time of Louis XIV. The orchestra was extraordinarily fine and sensitive, the singing good, the costume well done and the acting ‘quite amazingly better than anything I have seen elsewhere. Concluded the audience was really fond of music.

The atmosphere of New York was so charged with amazing contrasts it was impossible to generalise. It was vastly cosmopolitan with the German and Latin elements helping so far as music was concerned. He had been to two concerts at the Aeolian Hall. Describes how the audience reacted to Beethoven, Chopin and Liszt. Compares them with an English audience.

The most marked trait was a lack of depth with the atmosphere being sprightly and superficial. Thought the women knew extremely little and had very untrained minds although they appeared intelligent at first. The great subjects of conversation for him were Europe and the differences between England and America. It was amazing how many Americans had travelled to Europe. It was the first thing they did when they got rich enough. They were very conscious of being a new country.

Has to stop writing as the train had arrived.

[27 Feb letter continues] - Boston was being very kind to him as were Mr and Mrs Burrs in whose home he was staying. He was a member of the Alpine Club and gave a large dinner in his honour last night with nearly 40 men present at a room at the Union Club. He did not enjoy these functions, particularly when he had to speak. He was very busy seeing people who were all very pleasant and much more like the English than New Yorkers.

Asks for news of Arthur [wo had undergone a second operation]. He was enjoying bits of things, but the background was all grey. Didn’t hope to get away much before the end of March.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Shekkar Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Storm had covered them in dust inside and outside their tents. Describes morning routine. Enjoyed much of the country. Somervell, Norton and Longstaff liked Tibet. Outlines plans for camps at Everest. Delayed so attempted to climb most northerly peak in Gyanka Nampa range. Description of attempt. On return to camp they then had 18 mile march. First view of Everest. Detailed description of a monastery they visited en route.

Detailed Summary
A violent wind had blown fine dust into the tent and everyone and everything was covered with it. Dust was by far the worst of their discomforts at present. This was the second whole day of inactivity but tomorrow they would be marching again and would soon be in the mountain valley where dust wouldn’t blow. Still hadn’t received any mail.

Daily routine - started in crisp sunny air about 7.30am or 8am at the latest. Weather was warmer and the sun very hot until evening. Usually started with a walk for a good stretch, and then joined about six others for tiffin (cheese and biscuits and chocolate). There was an enormous mess tent which preceded them and was waiting at the end of their day’s march providing shelter which he thought was a good arrangement. Strutt’s voice could be heard in each new place cursing.

He enjoyed much of the county on seeing it again. There were only signs of green things though it was spring but the hillsides were often highly coloured with red and orange. Somervell, Norton, and Longstaff also liked Tibet’.

Planned to go to the first base camp made by him and Bullock in the previous year in four days and on the fifth day to take the yaks on as far as they could up the right bank of the Rongbuk glacier. Presumed this would be beyond the comfortable pace of their second base camp, which was ¼ hr below the glacier. This plan would mean an uncomfortable camp but it would ease the marches higher up, so that if their base was near the junction of the East Rongbuk stream with the main glacier three early stages should take them to the North Col. He didn’t think everyone would find them easy. They planned that the first operation from base camp would be to fix the exact positions of two camps between the base and the North Col and determine the best line up the East Rongbuk Glacier – Strutt, Longstaff, Morshead, and Norton would make up a reconnaissance party for that purpose.

Delayed at Gyanka Nampa [mountain range] (two marches before Tinkeye [Tinki]) so he and Somervell planned to climb the most northerly peak of the Gyanka range (20,490 ft). Finch and Wakefield joined them. It was a considerable distance from their camp at Gyanka and more than 7,000 ft above so it was necessary to take light tents about 5 hrs walk up towards the mountain. Somervell made quite a good sketch. They marched for nearly two hours in the dark. He, Finch, Wakefield, and Somervell shared a Whymper tent, lying head to tail across it. He was sleeping in the door and a wind blew in and it was bitterly cold. They left soon after 4am next morning but Finch was mountain sick and couldn’t continue. He and Somervell had a good climb but it got too late so they had to turn back only 500 ft from the summit. Got back very tired and headachey at 1pm and were at Gyanka at 4.30pm. Somervell had more trouble with the wind and felt the height more than he did but he liked him as a climbing companion. He was a thoughtful sensible person and quite perfectly modest, although that wasn’t his first impression when he and Herbert met him on the Matterhorn.

On returning to Gyanka they had to face the unpleasant prospect of an 18 mile march including fording a river and crossing a sandy plain where there were quicksands for the unwary and bad walking on the dunes. It was nearly 5pm before they set out and after 5 miles they had to leave one of the ponies. Then realise they couldn’t reach the ford before dark. He knew the path to the ford. Approaching it they saw some lights, presumably from Tibetan fires. Near the ford they were hailed by a Tibetan who crossed the river to meet them and them and carried him across. A few minutes later they came to the lights and found their own people in a comfortable camp with a hot dinner for them.

Next morning they had a clear view of Everest which was ‘...more wonderful even than I remembered and all the party were delighted by it - which of course appealed to my proprietary feelings’.

He had spent most of that morning in the monastery which fascinated him from an architectural point of view. It had deeply shaded little courts at a hundred different levels and mysterious interiors. Describes monastery in more detail. The temple was ‘even more amazing’ with an alter with half a dozen life-size Buddhas and up in the roof another enormous, gilded Buddha.
He thought that the next time he would write they would be established at the Rongbuk base camp. Still had received no mail and he wanted to hear from her very much. ‘I think of you most when I get to bed at night and summon up your image and want you near me’.

[Postscript] - ‘I don’t think this letter is worth circulating’.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Chevremont, Darjeeling [Letterhead]’

Brief Summary
Somervell and Crawford were to stay in the Lhonak Valley for 2 weeks. Describes his onward journey without them. Morshead was mainly recovered and his fingers and toes were recovering.

Detailed Sumary
Is concerned about the mail and missing letters from her. What was more serious was letters sent off by him from Kampa Dzong - evidently hadn't got through. Correspondence seemed a hopeless business. He would be later than previously discussed and so should meet in London. It would be best to meet at the docks but doesn't want her to wait for hours.

Describes his journey since he had left Somervell and Crawford in the Lhonak Valley in the north of Sikkim. As she hadn't received some of his letters she might not know the three of them came through the short way from Kharta together leaving the others to come round by Shekar Dzong and Phari, etc. Their way was the same as his and Bullocks the previous year. Could she follow the route on her map? It was difficult to get the Tibetans to go that way and they had to go to Kampa Dzong for transport and waste a day there.

A land slip had rendered the pass down to Laachen unusable and it had fallen out of use until the jungle had covered it over. He believed a bridge had broken too. The others were to spend a fortnight or so in the upper part of the valley, so he made the march eastward to Tango. He started with two yaks and ended about midnight with one. He stayed 3 nights at Tango collecting his baggage from the Lhonuk La and then came through without delay, though in the last stages he had to leave his kit and it arrived a day after him. Sikkim was much less wet than expected. His memories of Sikkim were chiefly of rushing swollen streams and leaches.

Morshead was well and cheery and his left hand had practically recovered. Three fingers at the right were still bound up. One big toe still gave him trouble but was healing up well.

He wouldn't write more now as he had several jobs to do. Hopes they wouldn't be quite ruined by the time he reached home as attractions in the shops were irresistible. Apart from a large bag he had hardly touched the £200 to his credit with the bank there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

It had rained during his night shift and he was lucky to only have fallen once in the mud. Would have to brief new N.C.O.s for the week ahead. Cake she sent was excellent. Stationary balloons had appeared some miles away and there was shooting in progress. Had spoken with Lithgow. Pay Sergeant was coming down. His part in the project was chiefly the demolition of a wall to recover the bricks for use in building. Wasn’t sure Ralph ought to tell her where he was but as he thought she would find out he says he is near a famous place P in Belgium but asks her to keep it secret.

Saturday – Colonel was pleased with the works and he thinks they will finish in three more weeks. Answers her questions as to why the town wasn’t systematically shelled. It was noisy but he wasn’t nervy yet as they hadn’t had much shelling. He liked the photos of her but was critical of the ones of him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Base Camp

Brief Summary
First summit attempt without oxygen and waiting to hear about Finch and Young Bruce’s summit attempt with oxygen.

Detailed Summary
Had received mail from her and read news of Pen y Pass. Four of his fingers on the right hand had been touched by frost bite but only the top joint of the third finger gave him any trouble and he didn’t think there was any danger of losing any part of it. Poor Morshead was a very different case and they didn’t yet know what the damage would be. Thought it was stupid or careless of them to be caught out as it was easy enough to keep hands warm with gloves if you weren’t doing too much with them. He took the lead over from Morshead and cut the steps as quickly as possible for fear the porters would be done in by the cold and refuse to continue. Morshead was insufficiently clothed and didn’t know his fingers were caught until the following night. He had wrecked himself cutting the steps and when they were pitching tents hardly had the strength to lift a stone. The night at 25,000 ft was miserable and he didn’t expect to go on.

Somervell was the reserve man all through and was particularly useful in cooking at the high camp. Norton went first on the final day and was very nearly done at the end and was climbing very slowly. They could have gone further but turned back to allow time for the descent. On a fine morning they would have started 2 hrs earlier and reached the N. E. shoulder.

He lead on the descent except where they had to cut steps. He and Norton shared the cutting as he judged he would be quicker than the others. He felt pretty strong on the descent. The slip was nearly a bad business. He hadn’t realised how shaky Morshead was and had cut rather poor steps. Norton and Somervell must have been caught napping. He didn’t have the rope belayed round his waist as he was on the point of cutting a step. Hearing something wrong behind drove in his pick and belayed and was ready in plenty of time when the strain came. Morshead must have made a very fine effort coming down the steps of the snow slope as he appeared to tread quite safely; but the moment they were on easier ground he collapsed. He didn’t like the idea of being out after dark above 23,000 ft. It was a very trying and anxious time.

Next morning there was a lot of hard work cutting steps down from Chang La [North Col] and they weren’t down to Camp 3 until after noon. They walked down to Base the next day and were a very tired party, and all except Somervell, had remained tired. The rest of the party were very pleased with their performance. Thought that the three of them were out of it now. Norton’s ear and his finger were frostbitten and Longstaff wouldn’t hear of them going up again until they were healed. It was annoying as he wanted to make one more try from a camp at 26,000 ft.

They were a perfectly happy party at Camp 3. Apart from the anxiety he had enjoyed it tremendously.

Thinks he won’t have answered all her questions. Says he is still feeling stupid and it was a great effort making a narrative for the press. Wonders what people at home think of them.

[Continues later] - Had just received 3 letters from her and also letters from all his family. Comments on her time in North Wales and hopes she is better for her holiday. Of Pen y Pass he says he knows nowhere that one comes away from feeling so strong. Had a very nice letter from David [Pye] about Pen y Pass. It was almost certain that they would be leaving Everest on her birthday and should be in Darjeeling about 7 July at latest, and hoped to be home by early August. Thought he might take a week to travel through India and then take another week coming round by sea to London. He hoped for one spell of walking with her before October, mentioning the good places they still had to visit together, Teesdale in late spring, a Yorkshire dale, golden in September, and Derbyshire, or the west country again.

[Continues later] - He had been dictating to Morris [General Bruce’s secretary] while he typed up a narrative of their climb. He had worked out she ought to get news of their climb very near the date of her birthday and this letter should reach her on 4 July, and on the same day he should arrive in Darjeeling.

Details future travel plans as he wants to see something more of the world. He may see the Bullocks on his way home as he had heard from him the other day full of questions about the expedition. They had both been ill and asks Ruth to write to Mrs Bullock as she would be glad to hear from her. He had written a note to his mother and had received one from his sister Avie and hoped she was really better.

He had been thinking of a plan for them to meet in the Alps on his way home but felt she wouldn’t come because of the expense, but if she did it would be easy for him to meet her there. He didn’t know whether Geoffrey Young had secured the Tyndall chalet but if so they could go there which would make a great difference. Tells her how to get there and what costs would be involved.

[Continues later] - they were waiting for news of Finch and G. Bruce’s attempt to summit using oxygen. Thinks they would certainly break their record as they have had very good weather but he didn’t expect them to have reached the top at the first attempt. It all depended on whether they succeed in dumping cylinders ahead of them. He didn’t feel jealous of any success they may have. Getting up with oxygen was so different from their attempt that the two hardly enter into competition. He chaffed because his finger kept him in camp and Longstaff had no idea how bad it was. It was extremely sensitive to cold and if he went up again he would get a real bad frostbite so he had to be patient.

Norton was responsible for collecting flowers with Longstaff’s help. As Longstaff had to go back in a hurry Norton had asked him [Mallory] for help and what they found the previous year. He could easily do this without much loss of time but would be a week later reaching Darjeeling. The idea of seeing seeing the early flowers between there and Kharta and near Kharta too attracted him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had been reading The Dynasts [by Thomas Hardy].

They had successfully completed their move and were in a pleasant part of the world and he would rather be there than in the Railway Triangle near Arras where they were rather hemmed in.

He was going to Trafford’s anniversary dinner tomorrow [anniversary of Trafford taking command of 8th Squadron] if he could be fetched in a side car because they had no transport. Possible he would sleep there and go on to Amiens and then to Paris. Wasn’t really looking forward to it but thought he ought to make the best of the opportunity.

Wed morning - beautiful fresh morning and he had enjoyed his cold bath. Had to go into Arras to attend a Court of Inquiry. Was increasingly anxious as he hadn’t had received no news of his release.