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Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Been inoculated against typhoid so couldn't do exercise. Discusses book by Baudouin. Refers to Ghandi's arrest and strikes.

Detailed Summary
Nearing end of voyage and he had rather enjoyed myself. He had been rising early and sitting alone in the early sun. He was inoculated against typhoid two days ago and so was debarred from such activities as Max Mullers, ‘My System’, skipping and running because they were too painful. He was wearing the old khaki silk shirt she gave him and mended the other day, my shorts, and a pair of gym shoes.

Wants more seasoned silence and collected meditation. Gives a detailed criticism of Baudouin’s book, discussing the law of reversed effort and its potential application to children. He was going to send her the book and suggests she carefully read the part about the practices of auto-suggestion and suggests they practice this with Clare [daughter] to help with her little troubles of competitiveness with other children. Was also sending her back The Revision of the Peace Treaty which was well worth reading - one could skip some of the figures.

He expected to be in Bombay the next morning and refers to Ghandi’s arrest. They had heard in Aden of a general strike on the railways. He missed seeing the papers. Comments on the Curzon affair.

It had been a fortnight since he had left and he supposed the flowers were blooming in their garden at home. Asks her to report on specific plants to him and mentions Clutton-Brock and Beagly. His next letter would be from Darjeeling and should be more interesting, though he didn't expect there would be much time for writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the Officers' Mess, Red Slum, France

Still hadn’t received a letter from her. Wants to know what she is doing and thinking. What had she decided about letting Violet go to munitions? Thinks she wouldn’t decide anything about that before her next period.

If the Germans were going to be so short of food next year it would be pointless for him to fight through another winter. The French had been expecting and hoping the war would end that summer or autumn.

Things had been fairly lively the last two days. Yesterday was wet so they had done no shooting but there was plenty going on and they took care to keep out of the way of the whizbangs. That morning he was awoken early by a tremendous dim – neighbouring anti-aircraft batteries pounding away. It was a bright morning and there was plenty of aircraft about so they took care to slink around out of sight in the shadows. They were shooting both morning and afternoon that day. The system was first one and then the other is on duty for a week. Next week he would take command of the guns.

The men had planted a variety of vegetables in the garden and there was plenty of space for flowers and they would do quite well for fruit.

He had to write a letter to Arthur Benson as he had seen that his sister had recently died and another letter to Mother.

Asks her to send the proofs of the photos.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 16 1916'

The men were working on a vast chamber 18’ x 24’ which he thought should be called the saloon. He had suggested a minstrels’ gallery at one end for the various performances on melodion, mouth organ, and penny whistle. It was to be warm. It would be a wonderful pleasure to the men to have a place where they can congregate and would promote song and laughter.

The ground had almost dried up and that was worth the bitter east wind.

Speculates about leave but doesn’t want to get his hopes up.

The adjutant had been in to dinner during which the enemy was shelling all around and the tear gas was penetrating everywhere. Yesterday Chamier came in to tea with his brigade doctor who was called Falconer, a very agreeable Scot. Was hoping Chamier would come in again with a boy called Shepperd who had been in his form. The sociabilities made all the difference to the monotonous life there and were indulged in more as the Captain was away.

The success on the Ancre was growing with more prisoners being caught daily.

Acknowledges the arrival of a cake different to the usual Plum cake but quite good.

He was reading M. Chéradame’s Pan-Germanisme which was a very interesting account of Germany’s ambitions which made him want to keep on fighting.

Asks if she knows what happened to Daudet’s L’Avant Guerre as he took it out of the London Library and read what he wanted before he went down to New Romney. Thinks she has it and the London Library wanted it back.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 16 1916' [looks like he originally wrote 15 but corrected the 5 to a 6]

Had received a chocolate cake and case of apples (cookers as they weren’t sweet).

Had a long and enjoyable day reconnoitring a lot of ground to find a suitable spot for observing German trenches and then laid a wire to the spot chosen. Were working with the 109 Battery. Both batteries wanted a registration. Went to see the Officers of the 109 on his way back. They were quite a pleasant lot and it was nice to get to know fresh faces. They were commanded by Captain Sayers, who was with 141 and was there with the half battery that relieved their [Mallory’s] men. Had to go back and recover a protector which had dropped through a slit in his mackintosh instead of into the pocket. Weather had cleared but it was very cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Had been released from hospital and returned to camp although he still couldn't walk very far. He would attend the lectures in camp but not the physical drills. He expected to be detailed for church parade at the weekend so wouldn't be able to visit her. Reminds her to let him know about the condition of his field glasses and was interested to know what else had come back in his pack.

Had only just finished his first article which was longer than expected and more suited for The Educational Supplement than the daily press. Was writing it more for the intelligent parent than the professional educationalist.

Writes about Raymond who had been killed in action.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Is keen to know what she and everyone at home thinks about the German Note and wants to see the English newspapers and describes how it is being reported in the Continental press. He thinks the journalists misunderstand the German and particularly the Prussian psychology which he sets out.

He wants to know what her father thinks of it all and asks her to tell him what he [George] thinks.

Was finding G. Young's Balkans amazingly good and was studying Othello.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 16 1916'

The battle continued in their favour so far. Was the most exciting day since the bitter disappointment of July 1st. Had been reading Old Mortality during the night watch (expecting a counter attack). Gives his opinion of Walter Scott and his writing.

Asks how she is getting on with Boswell. Recommends reading it straight through for first time and then picking out bits. Recommends different editions.

Explains why the observation post work might be less dangerous as they advance.

Very cold weather. Two cakes had arrived. Asks her to send some fresh butter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Olympic on ‘White Star Line’ letterhead

[16 Jan] Had been passing the time by playing deck tennis and taking a plunge bath. There had been some bad storms with furious wind and lighting and torrents of rain causing rough seas. He didn’t like the motion of the sea which made him feel fuzzy and stupid. His writing had been impacted and he still had the ‘Third Attempts’ and a chapter of 'Conclusions' to write. He had been fairly happy with his table companions which included American tourists, and he was amused by their accents.

He had not told them what his business was in America although he had told one couple but thought they would keep his secret as they understood he didn’t want to be bothered about Everest.

[Letter continues later, writing in his bed] – he was glad the voyage would be over the following day. Reminds her about engine oil for the car. Promises to send pictures of New York for her to show the children. His first lecture would be in Washington, D.C. He would have to weed out some jokes that wouldn’t go down well.

[Letter continues on 17 Jan] – It was a very cold morning with a wind like Tibet. They had anchored outside the mouth of the Hudson River, and he was looking forward to seeing the Statue of Liberty.

[Later] – He was staying at the Waldorf Hotel on Fifth Avenue.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Wonders what Fletcher had done about applying for his return. He might be home within a few weeks or if the application failed then it might take 3 months.

They had no orders to move yet and so they might stay there until peace preliminaries had been signed. There was uncertainty as to where they would spend the winter. The weather was getting colder especially at night.

That morning a plane had flown low overhead and dropped somthing red. It was a parcel for him from Trafford wrapped in red bunting. Trafford was going to come the day after tomorrow to take him off in his car to stay with him.

Wasn’t sure where the oak tree was that she mentioned but they would be glad of the wood if they could cut it up and cart it off. How was she doing for coal? Doesn’t see why the coal ration shouldn’t now be increased. Was sorry to hear that Violet may leave them as they wouldn’t get anyone as good. Agreed that the immediate future would be a good time to get servants. Thought it unwise to get Maggie Dunsby unless she was stronger than she used to be.

17 November - she might ask Violet to stay and nurse Beridge until she is 2 years old. Hoped to be back in time to have some time before term started.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 17 1917'

Had been doing observation work. Saw Germans against the skyline but his battery weren't allowed to fire. Two hours later a few rounds were fired but did no good so that was disappointing. He had been exploring a wood for a new observation post as he didn't like the place Hutchinson and Johnstone had found because it was a favourite dugout of the Germans. Many trees had been destroyed but he liked being in a wood and the feeling of the earth under the trees. Green things were beginning to carpet the ground and he saw wood anenomies and oxslips. He built a fire and had coffee and sardines for breakfast. He found three good O.P.s in the woods and had wires laid.

Describes firing on a target before an infantry attack, the bombardment from the Germans, and how the communications were managed.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Tinkye Dzong

Full transcript

Darling Ruth,

This is only a hurried line at the end of a full day - to tell you (1) that my tummy is in perfect order again, & I feel as fit as possible. It was a funny go altogether & quite inexplicable. Naturally there was a small appendicitis scare as the tenderness was on the right side, but Somervell was practically sure from the start that I was free from that.

(2) Beetham came on with us. It was Somervell’s decision on the very morning of leaving Kampa Dzong – that is to say S [Somervell] had to decide that B [Beetham] would get better; & no doubt he is right. But it is one thing to have no more dysentry & another to get really fit again after all that when living at this altitude. At present B [Beetham] looks years older in much the same way as Raeburn did in ’21, only at a younger stage & has quite lost all kick & there was no one more energetic earier. Still he may be a useful reserve climber in the end.

(3) I’ve had a brain wave – no other word will describe the process by which I arrived at another plan for climbing the mountains;-
(a) A. & B. with 15 porters (about) starting from IV (North Col) establish V building emplacements for 4 tents at about 25,500 & descend.
(b) C. & D. gassless party go to V with another 15 porters of whom 7 carry loads & descend, the other 8 group without loads practically speaking & sleep.
(c) C. & D. proceed to establish a camp VII at 27,300 (about) with these 8 porters carrying up 6 loads.
(d) E. & F. gas party on the same day as (c) start wthh 10 porters (about) from IV, go without loads to V & from that point E. & F. using oxygen they take on the stores & gas previously dumped at V about 1,000ft higher to VI at 26,500.
(e) Then the two parties start next morning & presumably meet on the summit.

You will readily perceive the chief merits of this plan; - the mutual support which the two parties can give each other; the establishment of camps without waste of reserve climbers (A. & B. will not have done so much that they can’t recover); the much better chance this way of establishing VI without collapse of porters. And then if this go fails we shall be in the best possible position to decide how the next attempt should be made; four climbers we hope will be available & the camps either way will be all ready.

This plan has such great advantages over all others that Norton has taken it up at once & this evening we had another pow wow & everyone has cordially approved. I’m much pleased about this as you may imagine - if only for this it seems worth while to have come; for Norton’s plan was fundamentally unsound I’m sure & might have had very bad results; & in this one there is much greater safety. It is impossible yet to say who the parties will be. N [Norton] & I have talked about it; he thinks Somervell & I should lead each one of these two parties; he puts himself in my hands as to whether he should be one of them – isn’t that generous? We shall have to judge as best we can of people’s fitness when we reach the Base Camp. Odell has not been showing up well; but either he or Irvine must be of the gas party.

We have stayed one day here for transport, as against 3 last year when Longstaff was ill; & we hope only to stay one day at Shekar, & so we should be two or three days up at the Base Camp.

No mail yet – one should have arrived today.
Much love to you.

Ever your loving, George

I didn’t tell you that I bought a pony at Kampa Dzong, a very good animal, though too thin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 17 1917'

He had missed the dispatch rider and so had received no letter from her again and couldn’t give the one he had written to be taken.

He felt like a fish out of water [at his new liaison posting]. As there was no room where the Heavy Artillery were, he was billeted with some Divisional Artillery not far away. Everything was in a horrible muddle and he hoped to return to a more settled way of life in a few days.

The thaw had started in earnest. Wishes he could write a happy and interesting letter. Describes the Commandant who was the one person there who interested him.

The French said plenty of nice things about our army and that the men were magnificent soldiers but they were disappointed and always waiting for us. The French were war-weary, not discouraged but bored. It was a great disappointment that they couldn’t get on faster on the Somme. The French were always ahead of the English, obtaining their objectives and then waiting.

Was thinking of her a lot and wished for a letter from her.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

He had not a moment to write to her in breaks during the day. Had spent 3 ½ hours on gun drill. About 6 men stand around the breech of an old gun and load and fire it. When giving the order you had to shout to be heard over the noise of imaginary guns going off all round in the drill hall. The loads weighed 100lbs and he had been concerned for his back but it had survived so far. He listened to explanations without comment as it was part of his present mood not to do so. He was still of the opinion that it was a good Christian job. The lectures that day had been elementary.

She wasn’t to worry about the towels if they were hard to get at but he did want her to send the calling cards as he had to pay calls to a general, colonel and the mess.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'July 17 1916'

Comments on her reply to his views on religious education.

Responds to her question as to whether he will be older after the war by saying he used to be more gay but could be so again after the war and this healthy life of action was wonderfully youth giving.

Had little to do yesterday and were still idle. Describes what he thinks will happen next in the battle. They were in the thick of the fighting and half the places mentioned in the papers were in their line of fire or visible from the observations posts.

Thanks her for two parcels. Asks her to send soup tablets. It was wet weather. Bell was playing the flute. He had written to his mother so that would save her copying out his letter. Corrects her spelling of the word ‘copying’ [Ruth was dyslexic]. Asks her to read over her letters before sending them as some of her omissions makes it difficult to make out the meaning. Hopes she treats other people better than she treated him in that resect. He didn’t think it nice for her to let her thoughts go forth in such a careless fashion. Says he has been severe and says she writes very good letters and he didn’t want her to change the general manner.

Comments on Clutton-Brock’s reviews. Discusses how the canteen operates. Asks if she had received a photo of him that Sayle said he would send from Cambridge. He has one of her pinned to a sandbag.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 17 1917'

He had been very busy with new ammunition. The Germans had retreated giving away a large chunk of territory on the Somme. Dunbar had returned from the observation post and Johnson had gone up. Wishes he was up there.

Three good letters from her and one from Mary. Glad she had been staying with Ruth. Was sorry to hear Ruth didn’t think Clare would be brainy but he was sure she would be a very nice person.

Would like to go up the line tonight but didn’t think he could do much good as it would take the Infantry a wile to make contact with the enemy as they had to cross the river.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 17 1916'

He had heard nothing more about leave. The climbing boots had arrived and he had every hope that they would keep his feet warm. Cake and buns had also arrived. They would have the buns for tea when Austin Earl was due to come. He had arrived at lunch time but had only just had his breakfast.

They were doing little considering the dry weather. He had dug with the men for an hour and then spent the rest of the time in his dugout reading M. Chéradame's Pan-Germanisme - a very interesting part about the population of southern Serbia. He had wrapped his curtain round his knees as it made all the difference to his warmth. The supply of paraffin wasn’t unlimited so he couldn’t burn his stove day and night and he preferred to use it after dark. The mess room was not a warm place.

Charmier and Sheppard came in last evening but not to dinner. He liked Shepherd who came in talking about the Dardanelles and the coast of Asia Minor. Dunbar and Wood had also been to dinner to eat a brace of pheasants which came from the Captain’s shooting.

His turn on the observation post tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

The adjunct said he wouldn't be on church parade for the next two weekends but the course he was taking was due to go to a remote place called Lavington in Wiltshire. The Colonel had mentioned Friday 26th but he feared they would keep them there all weekend. After completing the course he would get 48 hours leave and then could put in for six days overseas leave before going out.

The canvas part of his bed had not come with his kit. Asks if it had come back to her and if so could she send it by parcel post.

Interesting lecture on gas shells. The Germans had great difficulty getting gas masks due to the shortage of rubber.

Hoping to get to Winton after tea to get the clutch adjusted on his motorbike.

[Continues later] - it was raining so couldn't face going to Winchester. Still doubtful if he would be home after the trip to Lavington but he didn't think it worth postponing the christening.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Anchor Line, T.M.S. California [Letterhead], March

Full Transcript

My Dearest Ruth,

It is Saturday and early on Wednesday morning we shall be in Bombay, so the voyage is nearing its end. I had a scheme of writing you a little each day, but though I have thought of you often I have written little [struck through] nothing. The fact is that the days after all turn out to be too short. As you may imagine my first idea has been to keep fit. It is never very easy in the hot weather, and though it was cool enough until we were in the Canal it has been hot since then – not remarkably hot, but limp-hot. For two days going down the Red Sea we had a following wind; there was no air on the ship and our cabin with the afternoon soon became insufferable. One night I tried to sleep on deck, with two pillows and two deck chairs to help me, but though it was pleasant enough lying under the stars, too exciting perhaps I got no sleep and in the early morning retired to the cabin. But the nights have been bearable except for that one and the great way to be fit is to perspire freely both before breakfast and again in the evening before dinner. With Beetham and Irvine I do a good deal of throwing and catching the medicine ball and that proves the best way of all. Occasionally I run, ten times round the deck, which is about a mile. Anyway activities of this sort cut into the time between tea and dinner; after dinner when I don’t play Bridge (ie. about every other night) I don’t find I get much done of anything serious and one is hot and stuffy and after dinnerish. However I have a done a good whack at Hindustani at which I hope to be very much more efficient this time. I have read a little history; I have written the article for Blackie and Son and I have studied the oxygen apparatus and gone through lists of stores and invoices so as to get to know exactly what we have that we shall want from the Base Camp on and have my own list in a notebook. The one serious omission is crampons – nothing but the old-fashioned heavy kind; it is very disappointing; I made a great point of that with the equipment people. It means we shall have to cut steps up the final slope I suppose. The oxygen apparatus is going to be awkward to carry and particularly to cut steps when wearing it will be difficult. I have spent some time too going into the question of organising high camps; but it is difficult to come to any conclusions at present and I think very likely our plan should be to have a stray reconnaissance using oxygen from the North Col to decide the heights of different places suggested and also how many people could sleep there. The point of using oxygen would be to preserve the strength of those making the reconnaissance. However this plan would be rather expensive of organisation, and I doubt whether we shall carry it out.

The ship has been much more agreeable since we unshipped our cargo of Scotch tourists at Port Said. There is room now on board and one can find a corner and get away and be quiet if one wants to. We sit eight at a table of whom one is Irvine and it is quite an agreeable little crowd. I am always down and have finished breakfast before anyone else arrives unless it is Irvine and then seek solitude, so I hardly see anything of anybody before lunch. If people see one busy – and they have grown accustomed to see me busy – they don’t mercifully, disturb one. Even so it isn’t easy to get much done; if one sits in a wind papers blow about and if one sits out of it one is too hot. They are a nice lot of people quiet and dullish and unobjectionable. I fear I’m not seeming very sociable, but they have asked me to give a talk about our expedition and I have agreed to do that tomorrow night.

I’ve a sort of feeling that I’ve left all the difficult things to you. I do wonder how you’ll get on about selling the Holt and letting Herschel House, and building our new wall and dealing with the garden. I came to no agreement with you about paying bills while I am away – I think the best plan will be for you to pay none unless it seems urgently necessary; I think there can hardly be any to pay, unless it is the Army and Navy stores for port wine and any Everest things, e.g. Bodger’s and Beales can wait.
Don’t forget the wine cellar must be locked up if you let the house; and in the cellar is the over mantle for Mrs Lock.
I wonder where you will be when you get this. As your plans were vague I shall post to Herschel House; and it should get there about April 5 and may catch you. Your first letter to me should reach Bombay 2 days after us and so I should only have 2 days in Darjeeling to wait for it.

I haven’t said a word to you about my hip which was bothering me – you will have gathered that it is better, and it is indeed perfectly well and strong, so that I never think of it or notice it; in fact I am pretty fit altogether; my ankle and its behaviour in new boots are the only anxiety; but I have a comfortable old pair for marching and shoes besides so I should be all right.
I feel this to be a very dull letter. I hope you got my communications from Port Said all right, particularly 2 boxes of Turkish Delight addressed to all three children. I want to know about that because I had to get them despatched from a shop. And did I ask you to send photos of yourself and them? I do like to have them.

Monday – The end of the voyage begins to loom near. Thoughts of the journey across India and various details obtrude themselves. I shall begin packing today, because I don’t see exactly how I am to dispose of the heavy suit in which I came on board – you’ll remember that I haven’t much room left in the suitcases.

I find myself wanting to see India again and looking forward to the journey in spite of heat and dust. How dirty we shall be by the time we reach Calcutta!

The Indian Ocean has been remarkably smooth and lifeless, and rather grey as it always is – until today when it is all alive with a delicious breeze, and blue like the Mediterranean. We’ve seen nothing of interest but a school of dolphins which performed with a truly amazing joie de vivre.

It is curious that now I am in warm sunshine I must think of you in a summer frock – March 17 – perhaps it is snowing in Cambridge. England does look a little grim from the tropics at this time of year. But you’ll have an English spring and sunshine. I wonder if you will go to see Mill give them my love if you do – I do like the way they have settled down – they’ve done it very nicely, and they are nice happy people.

How I wish I had you with me; with so much leisure we should have enjoyed this time together; and I would have been able to give you so much more than I can give you in our daily life at home. Supposing that you instead of Hazard had been sharing my cabin and I could have peeped over in the morning from my perch and seen you lying below and we would have gone up into the bows together in our silk dressing gowns to breathe the fresh morning air and sat together here where now I am alone – dear girl we give up and miss a terrible lot by trying to do what is right; but we must see we don’t miss too much.

I shall write again before we leave Darjeeling, one day early next week so as to catch the next mail after this one, which will go out on Friday the 21st.

Great love to you, dearest one, and many, many kisses for the children.
Ever you loving
George

P.S. I’m sending a few stamps I bought off a man in the street in Port Said. If you know any small boy of our acquaintance, Bobby, or John, or Franz, will you send them on to one of them. Aunt Jessie will probably have them and anyway is old enough to know better.
G.

Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 18 1916'

He had arrived at the rest camp with half the battery. Describes walking in the valleys, finding the stream and being very happy. Would be even more happy if she were with him.

Lithgow was to arrive that day and he the camp Commandant of R.G.A. [the Royal Garrison Artillery] and he was to be his orderly officer. Hoped it wouldn’t affect his freedom.

[Continues later] – had been to lunch with the A.S.C. people [ammunition column] and met two Carthusians [former pupils of Charterhouse School where Mallory had been a school master]. Had received letter from her, Graves, Mr Allen, and his mother. Explains he can’t write full accounts in his letters because of the censors. He had missed Robert’s name in the casualty lists. He was disappointed in his poems and wished he hadn’t published them as it would have been better for his reputation to wait.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Amiens Cathedral, France, 'Aug 19 1916'

Describes Amiens Cathedral.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Looking forward to seeing her on Thursday and suggested meeting at George the Confectioners at the continuation of Royal Terrace. Mrs Q was so nice he was feeling happy about her [Ruth]. He had written to his mother to see if she would come but doubted she would. Had lectures all day and no physical work. He thought the pain in his side was muscular. This afternoon’s lecture had been given in the gun shed with him laying on a coil of rope.

He had made friends with an architect and climber called Courtnay. He had received a cheery letter from Graves who was safe for the present and also a letter from Raymond who was not safe and he didn’t expect him to survive the war.

Postscript - asks her to bring some tea as the mess would be glad of some.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Wednesday July 18' [Wed was actually the 19th]

They had had three days of idleness and bad weather and it was very depressing. Discusses the current situation in the battle and the hope they all had the Russians would win them the war. Had heard from his mother that Trafford would be going out almost at once. Had received the parcel of butter which was delicious. Had been sent to town to see the Field Cashier Comments on the state of the town.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'A Trench'

Had remembered it was his birthday. Had been brought up to a trench. First time he had been quite near the Germans and seen their trenches. Had a good view from an observation post. First shots very successful with three rounds fired and all hitting same spot. Germans had started sending shrapnel over so they had retired into the dug outs.

He had only got three hours sleep so wasn’t happy yesterday. They were registering targets but trouble was the noise of the trucks on the nearby road. Works were interfered with by shooting, the arrival of ammunition and the presence of the other half battery.

Asks her to send some back copies of The Times. Had just received letters from various people but no cakes. Says she ought to encourage Violet to take up war work if the Government require it but he would regret her departure.

Was feeling better after a good night’s sleep and things were calmer and happier. He was often in poetical mood. Would attempt to describe the Mess and various officers in his next letter.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 18 1917'

Had a splendid walk into P. which he thought must have been one of the most lovely towns in the world. The enemy had gone away and they wouldn’t see action again until they crossed the river.

Lithgow was as cheery and energetic as ever. They had joined up again with all seven officers in the mess together. Hoped the battery would stay together when they moved otherwise he would be with the left half with Glen, Dunbar, and Johnson.

He was back again in his deep dug-out with Wood and Hutchinson. Wood was much brighter and quite talkative. He was a northerner and quite enterprising and amiable but not interesting.

The pursuit was very slow and they would probably be held up in front of St Quentin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had wasted no time in applying for his early demolilisation [his occupation was schoolmaster]. He was staying with Trafford. He had a good place in a farm house about 6 or 7 miles from Doullens on the Arras road. It was a very comfortable camp and the countryside was quite unspoilt and rather attractive. He was interested in the army schemes for occupying itself pending demobilisation. Trafford’s Squadron were training as they would in England as if the war was continuing which was ridiculous but they had to be employed. He believed the Army had some educational scheme but he wondered who would organise and teach it.

Trafford had a good deal of the regular soldier about him. Wishes he showed a little more sympathy. Wonders what he will do in civilian life and what manner he would adopt.

The cold snap had ended and was agreeably warm. The window’s of the Officer’s Mess in the truck had been put in lettin gin light and air. He would get back the velvet curtains and maybe some others as they would go well in his study.

He hadn’t received a parcel since the one from Fortnum and Masons and they were short of flour again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

They were leaving their old comfortable quarters in the rain which was unlucky and unnecessary. Had eaten an early breakfast and were waiting for a lorry to take up their kit. Wasn’t sorry to be moving and would soon be comfortable again. Hoped for a better dugout.

Previous day he had started writing a poem and then Boal from 109 Battery came and spent the evening with them.

Yesterday he and Bell had a day out in Amiens buying potatoes. They were hard to find and they had to go to a cheap vegetable market in the old quarters. They gave a rather jolly woman a ride in their car from her house to a stall in the market which she enjoyed. He bought eggs and then went to a haberdashery so Bell could buy two garments for his little girls.

He enjoyed chatting with French people, who had a quick sense of humour and seemed good simple people. Was glad he was in charge of buying provisions. It helped that he could speak French so he got it cheaper and wasn’t cheated and he got to go on jaunts away from the battle. It was extraordinary how little was doing there now. No talk of leave and Lithgow and Bell would go first.

Had received two letters from her. Comments on the Northcliffe hero. Says its the regular Daily Mail nonsense but was surprised and disgusted The Times printed that sort of stuff. Wondered what America is going to do.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’17 Carlyle Rd, Cambridge’

Brief Summary
George left America after this lecture tour in March 1923. This letter is written in October to Ruth ahead of their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would receive news of George’s death 8 moths later.

Most of this letter concerns plans for moving into Herschel House, including logistics and decorating and furniture choices. The end of the letter is about plans for another expedition to Mount Everest in 1924.

Detailed Summary
They could get into Herschel House on Monday 29th after he had been to a Climbers Club Committee meeting. He had arranged for furniture from the Holt to be cleared on the Saturday morning. Wondered if he should be there for the packing but doubts if it was worthwhile. If he went by car he could take a few plants if there were any she hadn’t already taken.

They would have to wait to make decisions about getting more paper from Jeffries’ for the hall etc.

He had seen Uncle Lawrence and arranged not to have the mantlepiece at present. He had the address of a firm who supplied Dutch blue tiles but he wanted the address of the firm her father had recommended.

He would make out a list of plants he wanted for her guidance and asks if she will inform Westbrook when they would want the stuff from there.

The sale at Herschel House would be on Tuesday 30th in a tent in the garden but there was so little it wouldn’t interfere with their moving in but wondered if they should go to the Elliot’s until it was over. There would be a good new bed in the sale and thought her bargain with Marby [Ruth’s sister Marjorie] wasn’t a good one as it would mean an extra mattress but he would leave it to her.

He would write to Alex Turner to ask their advice about what fixtures they could take from the Holt such as electric light fittings and curtain rods.

They would wait to decide about curtains although he inclined to the new zig zag stuff for the study.

Sealing wax paint couldn’t be used. Could they do a design in a simple colour, white or yellow or umber on the doors and some simple affair on the staircase? He was veering toward brown stain again. As they weren’t going to spend money on the drawing room mantlepiece they could spend more on the staircase.

[Letter continues later] – he had a very tiring drive back last night with a lot of mist. The committee meeting had been long but good. Farrar wouldn’t turn up as he was angry about turning down Finch. Bruce had been in a hotel in Switzerland where Finch had been and was asked whether it was he who was helping Finch to arrange the next expedition [to Mount Everest].

They had to contradict tales about a shortage of funds. Longstaff had heard of it and thought it was very wrong of Farrar as it wasn’t true. Had dinner with Longstaff. Hinks had written to Cranage about his going and he brought up the question with Longstaff although Hinks’ letter hadn’t turned up. He had not turned it down definitely, but he didn’t think they would hear of this going. It would be a big sacrifice for him either way.

It was wretched not being able to talk to her about. She must tell him if she couldn't bear the idea of him going again and that would settle it.