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Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Kampa Dzong

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My dearest one,

As I sit in my tent writing I have at my side a pot of grease into which I occasionally dip a finger & then rub a little onto the sorer parts of my face. The wind & sun between them have fairly caught us all these last three days. Norton says that he was accused by his people after the last expedition of having acquired a permanent dint in his nose & he is determined to prevent the same thing happening again – but how to do it? Personally I limit my desire in that direction to keeping my nose the same size as usual; I don’t like to feel it swollen with sunburn. Somervell who started with a complexion tanned by the Indian suns, is now exactly the colour of a chestnut, and, as he greases freely, no less shiny. Beetham so far has the best beard, but then he had a start as he didn’t shave after Kalimpong & I’m inclined to back Geoffrey Bruce against him in the long run, as his will be blacker. The face with greatest number of flaky excrescences and cervasses is undoubtedly that of Hazard, & the underlying colour in his case is vermilion.

In my last letter I told you how well I was. But I have not been altogether well since then – something wrong with my tummy – a slight colitis or something of the kind. Consequently I have felt very feeble & as I am strictly dieted have little to sustain me beyond biscuits & jam. We shall have two clear days here and I shall have time to get better, & in fact I am already much better & haven’t the least doubt I shall be perfectly strong again when we are on the move once more.

Though we have almost exactly followed our tracks of 1922 from Phari to Kampa, it has been a very different journey – not only different companions & incidents, but a rather different Tibet. The second march from Phari landed us ½ a mile beyond the Blizzard Camp of ’22; we had no blizzard this time but neither had we the bright high lights of Tibet. Chomulhari, a mountain which impresses one more each time one sees it, was veiled at first in thin grey mist & then apparently caught it properly from the North; we were continually threatened at the other side of the great Tuna Plain & had a nasty wind in our faces, but escaped worse. I can’t tell you how much I am interested by the weather – it’s so difficult to make out what causes it or what the signs may mean or how it is to be compared with what we experienced in ’21 & ’22. This day I’m talking of was more like a day during the monsoon; in the evening smoky grey clouds were clinging to the hillsides as though the air were laden with moisture; & yet all the weather reports from India have shown a deficiency of moisture in Bengal. One of the novelties this year is our mess tent, Norton’s special child. It goes on in advance on a mule so as to be ready for us when we arrive – at least that is the idea; on the night I’m speaking of some of us were the first to arrive in camp & set to work pitching our ample green marquee. The first procedure is to lay down a string in the chosen spot marking the perimeter of the pegs; a placed is marked on this string against which each peg has to be driven in – driving pegs into stony ground at these altitudes makes one puff; the floor a large sheet of green canvas is placed in the correct position with the line of pegs & upon this the tent is hoisted. I must say it is a great success. It has perpendicular sides about 4 ft high below the slant of the roof & consequently there is ample headroom. The floor dimensions I should guess at 18’ x 9’. The mess waiters have plenty of room to pass behind us. The tables which are none of your gim-crack canvas-topped X pattern or other, but pukka wooden tables, with three-ply wooden tops & screw in legs, are 2’ 6” square made to fold into half that size & are arranged in series down the middle of the tent - & then cunningest device of all, there is a piece to go round the pole in the centre & fitting on to two half tables so that no gap is left. We have no tablecloths, as it was thought that our tables duly wiped would prove a cleaner way.

On the night of the second march from Phari (i.e. April 8) having pitched our tent we lay about in it waiting the arrival of (1) the cooks (2) the yaks. The former whose business it is to go on ahead & have a meal ready if possible or as soon as may be had lost themselves on this occasion. The yaks are in very poor condition & go even slower than I remember; the men with them (about 300 beasts) were too few so that loading up was very slow (2 to 3 hrs) in the morning, & one could hardly expect the bulk of the animals at the end of a long march before nightfall. So there we sat or rather lay out of the wind in our green tent chatting – chaffing until gradually one by one nearly everyone had a snooze; & as they lay there snoozing with faces rendered ghastly by the green light they looked like a collection of corpses.

The night of the 8th was decidedly chilly, the wind got up from an unexpected direction & blew violently into our tents; the minimum temperature was 4°. I should have told you however that before we turned in we were cheered by a clear view of Chomulhari. The point of Chomulhari is the way it dominates the plain. The view of it from Dochen reproduced in The Reconnaissance gives you some idea of what I mean; but coming across this way to Kampa Dzong we don’t go so far north & the further you go from the mountain the more its great wall of rock presents itself as the barrier of the world in which you are. Goodbye to Chomlhari – I should like to have a whack at him one of these days.

The march of the 9th corresponded with that of 1922 except that we stopped about 4 miles short of our last time’s camp; but it was a bitter journey; the wind blew in our faces all day often very strongly & terribly cold, & the sky was white or overcast & the sun had no warmth. And I had a bad tummy; I walked almost the whole way to keep warm; & it was very tiring work under those conditions. We camped in a good spot looking up nullah to Pau Hunri. The wind died down in the evening; the stars were bright & the temperature fell to 2° below zero. Beetham was up 15 times in the night.

The 10th was supposed to be a short march & a comparatively short day. The yak men had had enough of it on the previous day & consequently we made a very late start 10.45 I think. It was supposed that if we didn’t stop in last time’s camp 4 or 5 miles further on we should be able to stop 3 miles further on again. However no water was met with for another 10 miles. We went on & on over the wide plain sloping upwards; in the distance at last we saw a little cloud of smoke & a little later some flash of bright green near it – the smoke was from our cook’s fire & the green spot was our mess tent, which we reached towards sundown; & then turning to look back towards the east I saw the black battalions of yaks still a long way off & beyond them in the distance once more across the plain, nearly 40 miles away the great wall of Chomolhari, appearing as though the spurs of Pau Hunri which we had crossed with so much labour had no existence.

A beautiful camp this one with a velvet sided hill to the south of us & to the north a long line of hills near at hand, while the sunny side of Chomiomo appeared through a gap; & a good night not so cold.

On the 11th to Kampa; a pleasant & easy march with much looking at snow mountains, Chomiomo and Kanchenjunga principally. Everest was not clear as we came down to Kampa though we could make out where it was.

April 14. Yesterday we had the news that the General is not coming on. The possibility had been in the back of our minds since Yatung. We are all very sorry for him naturally. It is difficult to size up in a moment how much difference his absence will make. I don’t think the difficulties of travelling through Tibet will be considerably increased. The General’s influence with the porters must go for something; but Norton thinks that Geoffrey Bruce with his more direct contact with a personal knowledge of them counts for more. I expect myself the porters will work as well this year as in 1922. Still we’ve lost a force, & we shall miss him in the mess, and also his absence from the Base Camp will be inconvenient.

Meanwhile Norton takes command & we couldn’t have a better commander, he will do it much better than I could have done had I been in his place if only because he can talk the lingo freely. He has appointed me second in command in his place & also leader of the climbers altogether. I’m bound to say I feel some little satisfaction in the latter position.

I’ve been very busy these last two days formulating a plan of attack to be discussed as a commentary on Norton’s plan & we have just been having a general pow wow about the two schemes. I don’t know whether I told you anything about this before. Roughly N [Norton] proposes (a) 2 without oxygen establish Camp V at 26,500 & sleep there. Next day they go on & get as near as possible to the summit partly by way of reconnaissance, partly by way of taking the chance if it exists of getting to the top. (b) The day they go on a party of 3 with oxygen come up to V & are there to receive the first 2 & themselves go on next day.

The valuable points in this scheme are (1) that the oxygen party should not this way be let down by their load failing to arrive at V (2) that one attempt supports the other. The weakness & I think fatal weakness is that you spend 2 men making an attempt without the best chances of success, the best chance gasless being with 2 camps above Chang La; from the point of view of making the best possible gasless attempt supposing the 1st gas attempt fails two men have been wasted.

My adaptation therefore supposes;-
(a) Day 1 two with gas establish camp at 26,500. Next morning (1) if they feel strong & it is windless they start for the top.
(2) otherwise they wait & melt snow.
(b) 2 with gas come up to V on the second day. If (1) they support 1st party & if they have failed themselves make an attempt next day. If (2) all 4 go on together next day, in two parties of 2, an ideal mountaineering arrangement.
This leaves 4 men unimpaired for gasless VI camp attempt. Or this last may come first.

We had a very useful & amicable discussion of various points arising from these two plans & hope to get something settled by Tinkye.

Please don’t circulate this exposé of plans though of course you may tell climbing friends in confidence.

We are on the eve of resuming our march. The worst news is about Beetham who has not yet properly recovered from dysentery & is a very weak man. It is not yet decided whether we shall send him down to Lachen tomorrow. If he comes on & gets bad & Somervell (in the absence of Hingston with Bruce) has to take him back we shall have lost two of the best & be left without a medical officer, a very serious position. B [Beetham] is just on the turn; but even if he is going to get better up here it might pay better to send him down at once with a fair prospect of his rejoining us at the B. C. [Base Camp] about May 8 to 10.

This letter is full of news & very impersonal. Now about myself. I was able to feel definitely this morning that my trouble has passed. The tenderness in my gut is no longer sensitive, like an old bruise rather. I feel strong & full of energy & myself & I haven’t the least doubt I shall remain fit. I shall take every care to do so.

The warm pleasant days here have done us all good.

I’m happy & find myself harbouring thoughts of love & sympathy for my companions. With Norton of course I shall work in complete harmony; he is really one of the best. I read little what with Hindustani words & Sherpa names to learn, but I have occasional hours with Keats’ letters or the Spirit of Man which give perhaps more pleasure here than at home.

I have had no mail since I last wrote. If the English mail had been sent off as soon as it reached Phari we should have received it b now; but the arrangement is for the runner to come through & return so as to fit the out mail to England (a very bad arrangement on the surface) & consequently we shan’t get our letters before we get to Tinkye.

I’ve written to no-one but you this time. Please so what you can – at all events write to my people.

Dearest I wanted you very much to comfort me when I wasn’t well & I want you very much now to be happy with (not that I have been depressed).

Many many kisses to you & the children.
Ever your loving,
George

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Asks if she wants a holiday with him on his way home. Makes suggestions as to where they could meet, when, and how they would pay for it. Outlines an idea to return with Nyima (one of the porters) who would live with them as a servant. He had fallen ill with sore glands and throat and Bullock had to continue the reconnaisance without him but was unsuccesful. Morshead joined him in camp and as he felt better they joined Bullock.

Detailed Summary
Says he has two projects to discuss. First is whether she would like a holiday with him on his way home. Suggests meeting in Rome or Marseilles, and perhaps touring Provence and walking with rucksacks to Bordeaux. Or they could go to Tours, Chartres or Paris. Then suggests the two could meet in Gibraltar and tour Spain together and take a ship back from Lisbon. Then mentions the Riviera and staying with the Busey’s or would she enjoy Italy more. Asks her to make the plans and says his dates are quite uncertain.

He hopes to get to Darjeeling by 1 October but says there may be delays. He wants to spend two-three weeks in India. She should come supplied with information as he would know nothing about the trains in Europe. If they go to Spain or Italy she must be responsible for the language. Makes suggestions as to who she should contact to make arrangements. Wants to spend some of their £500 War Savings Certificate on giving her a really lovely holiday. Discusses the logistics of train tickets and advises her to consider the relative prices in different countries. She must telegraph him via Bullock in Darjeeling to let him know in what town he should meet her. Gives more detailed instructions and discusses the clothing he may need. He will wire her the date of his departure from India and the name of the ship so she can find out the date of his arrival.

The second project is his idea to bring back one of the expedition porters as a servant. He describes the hypothetical scenario at length detailing the duties in the house he would undertake and asking how he would fit in with the other servants. He suggests Nimya [Nyima] a boy of about 18 who had a perfect temperament and was one of the most helpful people he had ever seen. Details potential wages, dietary requirements, transportation costs. He would have to come for at least two years and then probably return to India. Wonders if he would be happy and whether the other servants would like him. Describes his appearance.

[Letter continues later] - Says he has become ill at a critical moment after a two day trek with sore glands and throat and it wasn’t worth the risk of going up the valley as he must save himself for the big attack. Bullock had gone on alone and sent a chit reporting that the valley didn’t lead to the north col, but ended in a col between two peaks 23,800 and 23,400 N.N.E. of Everest. He was cheered by the arrival of Morshead.

14 August - Feeling better so he went with Morshead up the same valley as Bullock which was very interesting. He planned to camp and reconnoitre. He and Morshead were out for 8 hrs and he had gone to bed as soon as they came back and was no worse. He was tremendously excited as the day after tomorrow they may have their line of attack fixed and if they did it would be a very good one because they would be able to get a very long way without camping on ice.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the train to Cambridge, Friday

He was on the train ½ hr from Hitchin where he would change for Cambridge. He had taken part in a whist drive which had been a great amusement. He had the opportunity to inspect a remarkable collection of women, and a few less men, commenting on the stupidity, utter banality, and depth of spiritual emptiness of middle class provincial England. He was pleased to win first prize of a hundred cigarettes.

He had enjoyed Wensleydale very much and had tried to take a photograph of it to show her as he thought they should go back there together. He describes the countryside, colours, buildings and views.

[He changes onto the Cambridge line and continues the letter]. He expected to feel like a stranger in Cambridge as it would have changed and be unfamiliar but Benson [his former tutor and the Master of Magdalene College, 1915-1925] and Gaselee would be there.

He had sent a pile of dirty clothes from Pately Bridge and asks her to have them washed. He would write again from Cambridge.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Thursday July 13'

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

Somewhat of a gap I’m afraid. I’m doing a spell in the O. P. [observation post]. I came up here on Tuesday evening – a lonely flat hill top with a wide view of bare rolling valley country intersected by the white lines of trenches and broken here and there by little woods. For companions two signallers Scotsmen. For comfort a bed of rabbit wire in a wet clay hole, a pipe, & a saucepan to brew my excellent French coffee over the Tommy’s cooker. The Hun is not much in evidence though I saw about 60 passing in small groups along a distant road – that was between 5 & 7 am. Now at 11 o’clock I have just finished registering one of our guns on a distant windmill. I enjoyed doing that; the gun did the unexpected & Lithgow was in a state of great incredulity owing to my large corrections for line – but I scored heavily by getting a hit with the last shot. The variable powered telescope which I have been using is an ingenious instrument & I had quite a good view of the windmill though its about 8,500 yards from here, & the holes in its well battered sides give me a queer mixture of pain & satisfaction.

I was rather depressed last night, a field gunner who visited this spot yesterday was telling me some unpleasant tales of what he had seen in the trenches. The pity of it all! Sometimes I have to think very hard about the Hun’s misdeeds to make up my mind to it. If the settlement of this business was in the hands of the German rank & file & our own I believe they would say at once let’s chuck it & not be such damned fools, any longer. It’s so hard to feel. I have horrid doubts too about our offensive with no particular reason. I do hope it is doing all it was expected to. Of course it’s a common place to observe that this is the great crisis of the war – but what a crisis!

What will be the fresh mental attitude of the German people when they are faced with something very unlike victory? And if they should resolve to fight to the last?

I hope I may have a letter from you today my dear one; the last reached me on Monday. In it you tell me about your visit to London. I am very glad you saw Mrs Reade. I am sure she is one of the best of women. You told her that I like the life out here & she was surprised by that. I wonder what she understood by it. It’s not a style of existence I particularly care about & I would never choose the soldier’s profession. Probably campaigning is more tolerable than the artificial peace time interest of the barracks – the hot-bed espirit de corps & diverse forms of puss blind eyewash. But No; I wouldn’t choose the life for its own sake even as I find it at its best out here. Like the life? I prefer to say that I like living; to be in a state of mind that won’t say so much is to be defeated & the most degrading condition of that defeat is boredom, it’s most usual companion ‘self pity’. No! I’m not bored & I don’t intend to be, nor have I the faintest degree of pity for myself who have so much more to be grateful for than the great dignity of men, though I believe I am capable of feeling some for the world at large – the world at war. It all comes, my dear Ruth, to what Hamlet says ‘There’s nothing good or evil in the world but thinking makes it so’ – in this sense, - that living is fashioned by Thought out of Circumstances & to fashion it well or ill is in the thinker’s choice. Far be it from me to say that it’s always easy to think life good.

The reflection that disgusts me most at this moment - & you’ll observe that it’s of universal application – is that we poor mortals are made of clay. Even so I’m sufficiently optimistic to entertain a healthy conviction that it wasn’t wet clay – my thoughts about that substance are too obscene to communicate, and so far as I recollect it was never stated that we are to return to clay. To dust – I am resigned to that thought because I shall spread so plentifully. To return to clay would indeed be a sort of immorality: but not one that I ambish – not if it were wet.

I am here for three days & this is the second. Truly I thank God that he held his beautiful hand yesterday & has wet me with only a cool shower or so this morning. A signaller sits by my side & we keep our eyes open. There are only two spots where one can hope to see the enemy in person; we watch them periodically – he more than I just now while I am so busy philosophising to you. Neither side seems active today – or I should have more to do – reporting enemy fire etc. Provided God is kind in the way I have indicated I quite like to be here for a change – its such a relief to get away from one’s companions isn’t it? I really quite half feel this but I don’t think it comes of misanthropy only that people interrupt thought so grievously.

I shall have done with this letter now. The signallers are relieved at 1.30, so I hope they’ll be in time to catch the dispatch rider before he starts at 2.0. I shall try & get a few letters or rather notes written to various neglected friends before I leave here tomorrow. This solitude suits the task. I do like to be alone.

Why do I talk about solitude when I have two companions? Because they haven’t the right of interruption – the first of the sight on man which makes the idea of liberty a Utopian dream.

Bless you dear Ruth. What’s the good of all this gas when I can’t kiss you. Please try to feel kisses & write & tell me what like it feels.
I notice that I never say that I want the time to come when …. perhaps I’m too proud; though you often speak of it. Perhaps because I almost feel that things taken for granted are communicated without speech even at this distance.

I understand from the papers that letters are not to be stopped so I’m happy to think that you’ll be receiving budgets from me.

Fare thee well beloved,

Your loving George

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received a bundle of letters from her which had made him very happy. Comments on news about the losses in the naval battle [Jutland]. Life was uncomfortable there mainly because of the cold and the rain.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 13 1916'

Had heard from Hugh Wilson’s mother on the anniversary of his death with two photos and notice from Rugby School. His brother Stewart had been injured. Also had a letter from Mr Hoenni.

Would be busy at the battery tomorrow. They were having an idle time and describes a walk he had taken. Seemed to be getting on slowly now and he didn’t feel so happy about the was as the enemy seemed stronger again on their front.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Magdalen Camp Hospital, Winchester.

Thanks her for her letter, the book, and the letter from David. Had been feeling demoralised and spent his time reading a book by Galsworthy which was 'poor stuff'. He likes the design of her new dress and asks about the colour suggesting dark green. Was glad his kit had turned up at last and asks if his field glasses came alright. Comments on the state of the war in France and the area around Passchendaele and the state of support for different parties within Germany. His foot is still the same as yesterday.

Along the margin of the second page he writes 'David tells me he is going to leave Will because Muirhead Bone according to a previous unfulfilled arrangement is going to live with him. Bad luck isn't it - he'll be sorry. Great love to you dearest. Your loving Ruth'

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 13 1916'

Had missed a day at the observation post as he was nursing a bad ankle which was being very troublesome. Had been in the map room and on the guns. Had used a beam laid across a trench as a horizontal bar and used it for exercise and felt much fitter.

Expects she will be glad to get back to Westbrook. Hadn’t received the cakes yet and hopes they were properly packed. Had been reading Old Mortality and his respect for Walter Scott increased with acquaintance. Felt they had come a long way on since his day and there were plenty of bad passages which no recent writer would be guilty of.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Hopes she will have had the baby by the time he arrives on Saturday.

Had dined with the Garbutts last night. Hoped to have the motorbike back by early next week. Had visited the Courtneys. Courtney had been in Mr Newton’s office and asks if she had heard of him. Thought her father would know of his name.

Busy day of odd jobs for him as orderly officer. Had been late for 6.15 am parade as his servant hand’t called him and he been reported by the brigade adjunct but been leaniently treated by the O.C.

The horses were constantly being groomed, fed and watered. His hand was cold from the last stint in the rain so was writing more crooked than normal.

Had heard from David who referred to ‘bad news or absence of news’ about Geoffrey Young. Was feeling anxious about him.
There would be an announcement about his second pip in the Gazette.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [First page is missing]

Brief Summary
Exploring and taking photographs with Bullock. Outlines plans for reconnaisance which he anticipated would take a week to day days but had been hampered by a shortage of rations and the weather which was crucial for the success of the expedition. Hoped to ascend a high peak of 23,000ft. They planned to start final campaign by mid August and be returning to Darjeeling by mid September. A route to the west was impassible so they abandoned it and made plans to explore to the east.

Detailed Summary
14 July - He and Bullock started late (6am) to explore the glacier to the west and southwest and after a fine morning he had stayed to take photographs. Refers to a hand drawn map [possibly on the missing first page]. He got one or two good photographs while Bullock looked along a glacier for a south west pass into Nepal.

15 July - He started early (2.30am) and got up the small peak by 5.30am. The clear dawn and the mountain views were indescribably wonderful. Everest itself blocked out all sun and the cwm remained a cold dark hollow behind the brightly lit snows. He took photos all round. They knew about the shape and position of the cwm but it remained to be explored. They didn't know how it ran up the col between Everest and the peak to the south. They would have to get into it and some way up it. They planned to force a way over the col and down into the cwm, taking Mummery tents. Arrangements had gone wrong and they were short of rations. There were no hopes of the weather tomorrow - it was too warm; the snow didn't lie.

18 July - The right weather was essential foor the success of the expedition. Complains of idle days. He anticipated a desolating experience in the Mummery tents. They aimed to finish the reconnaissance of the west side of the mountain which was very unlikely to offer a possibility of ascent. Then they would concentrate on the north-west aretes. He estimated a week or ten day’s reconnaissance and the ascent of a high peak (over 23,000 ft) which he was very keen to accomplish. Made plans to move down to the new Headquarters and hoped to start on a final campaign by the middle of August. He planned to have failed or succeeded by the middle of September at the latest, and then head to Darjeeling. Plans subject to the weather. .

20 July - They failed to get into the great cwm because it is unapproachable. This finished their reconnaissance on the west side. He must get down to Base Camp that day. He was organising an expedition to the east which ought to be very interesting. Howard-Bury would be moving on 24 July to join his new Base Camp in a valley to the east.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 14 1917'

He had seen the doctor about his ankle and it was bandaged to give it support and he would need an operation after the war. He was glad to know what was wrong and that there was a remedy. He hated the present trouble because it was a weakness and a sort of deformity.

They had not received anymore information and if there had been a big success they would have done so. He wasn't happy about that.

Dunbar had had a nasty fall and hurt his knee so the doctor looked at it and he was to be chief nurse in looking after Dunbar.

From today they were going to have to man the observation post from dawn until dusk and were making a little dugout for shelter. They would probably go back to the 48 hour system which was on the whole the best. He thought about pitching his tent in a wood nearby but thought it, or the contents, might be stolen.

Wonders how Mildred and Bob were getting on [in Wales]. Asks if she remembers their time there with David Pye.

The men were trying to find more cellars but they had all been blown up.

Was glad to hear that Mary Ann was going to have a rest and that Ruth would be staying with her. Thought she would enjoy London by way of a change.

Talks about the end of the war and her nervousness about his return.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 14 1917'

He had not received any letters from her since 2nd and was hoping to before he left the next day for a new liaison posting.

He had been very happy with these people who were very agreeable and intelligent especially Bonneau. The next lot didn’t attract him although they lived in a very nice place – a little village of dugouts in a big chalk quarry. He didn’t expect to be there long and afterwards would be with General Perkins at III Corps H.A.

His liaison had been a success from a personal point of view but not much use otherwise. Was pleased with the report he had sent in after seeing the Aviation. He had gone to a lot of trouble to understand the French artillery and understood it in general terms better than their own.

Last night he had played chess and dined with some anti aircraft people nearby including Fowler, a very nice Wykehamist [attended Winchester College with Mallory] and was a very good mathematician and Fellow at Trinity.

He was still in bed at 8.15am when a Frenchman arrived to collect his luggage. He had it ready in 40 mins. It was a lovely morning and the crows had arrived. He loved crows as they were reassuring. Wished he was going to the next place in 6 weeks time as it would be lovely in the Spring.

He was anxious for news of her. Had a vision of her crying with her head in his lap and he had the feeling that she was trying to reach him.

[He then includes some extracts from his literary notebook]

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

His weekends would be free and there was plenty of good country for her – he liked the looks of the east side of Dorchester.

There were 14 in the house all feeding together and 100 in the drawing room. He was sharing his bedroom with another man who looked a quiet, gentle sort. The folk at the Barracks looked very nice especially Clarke who knew Ralph Brooke [his brother in law]. Usual questions this time from a Colonel assuming he was a child of 17. There was a group of Irish from Dublin University who would probably be amusing.

Was glad he would have to search for rooms for her at the weekend as there was nothing else to do. Then there would be lectures, lectures, lectures and for fresh air gun drill.

He would write as soon as he had seen some places nearby - he liked the sound of Todpuddle, Tincleton and Little Bredy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Describes hardships of digging in the rain and getting wet without prospect of drying out. Difficulty getting supplies like pit props, timber, iron nails, sandbags and wire netting as the demand was greater than supply. Had searched for bread and potatoes but here was no bread as bakers couldn’t get flour and mills couldn’t get corn. Had ration bread but it was difficult to eat. Had got 3 kilos of potatoes, French beans and a bottle of red wine. Describes difficulties of feeding men when you arrive in a new place. Had eaten well in Mess on haggis and plum pudding thanks to Captain Lithgow. Describes the cook who caused the worst of their discomforts. Hoped another half battery would arrive soon with their cook. Asks her to send more tea.

Comments on her letters. Likes to think of her seeing friends in London.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 'A dilapidated old town in France'

He had received no letters from her and he wanted to hear from her very much. He seemed to have lived ever so long in observation and emotion since they parted and he had hardly told her anything of what he had thought and experienced in the last 10 days. He wanted to describe to her how he was living.

He was living in a cottage in the middle of a straight street which could have been described as a slum except for green trees looking over a garden wall. Running water at one end of the street with meadows, trees and farmsteads. At the other end was a half ruined church. They occupied 10 or 12 houses in a section of the street. His bedroom was on the ground floor at one end with the Officer’s Mess at the other end. These rooms had elegant furniture in them.

The Officers in this mess were very decent lot of fellows. [Lieutenant] Bell was very studious that evening sitting up at the table, while he sat in an arm chair, translating the famous passage in Pascal’s Pensees. He sees practically no one else so its lucky he likes the man. He had now met three men who started in the Gunners at the age of 14 or 15 and taken Commissions during the war and all were quiet observing men with a marked refinement of feeling and living in harmony with life. All three were competent and easy going. Bell hadn’t any of the hard driving manner associated with school masters, Prussians and ordinary soldiers. He didn’t shout or swear or drill the men but they knew keenly what to do. They would be gently but firmly admonished if they didn’t.

He was learning from this example but hadn’t too much to do so far. He was in command of No. 4 gun detachment under Bell’s supervision. He had inspected gas helmets that day and would see the guard tonight. Had spent the time finding how everything worked and where it was. Had spent some time in an observation post. Nothing to be seen of the Germans. He had played the game of shell dodging on the way to the observation post. You could hear them coming and had time to get out of the way. Danger was of a battery being spotted by an aeroplane.

He would describe the garden in his next letter and asks her to send seedlings if she think they would survive. Asks her to send plum cake if its not too heavy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Nov 14 1916' [he has written 1914 but it is actually 1916]

Speculates about when he might get leave and how best to spend it so he could see family and friends.

Had been busy. Yesterday they started firing at 5.45am and today at 6.45am. Yesterday’s operation on the Ancre appeared to have been a success. Had not been content with life lately. He had spend too long making arrangements to avoid discomfort that he had got into the habit of thinking too much about comforts and living in a spiritually lazy way. He got a wonderful lot of sleep there and liked his bed too much.

He had head from his mother who had not yet received his letter thanking her for the waistcoat and he wonders if it is at the bottom of the Channel.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Magdalen Hospital, Winchester.

Thought there would be some delay so that 28 October wouldn't be their last weekend together. Had been hoping to leave hospital on Tuesday but his foot was still too weak. Had been reading The Loom of Youth which David had sent him. Comments on Sherbourne school and the idea of boarding schools.

Wishes he had been with her as it had been lonely. He had been sitting reading in another ward where the stove burns without smoking and he could see the hills beyond Winchester. Was pleased with reports in the newspapers and thought the Germans couldn't have been feeling very cheerful if they hadn't launched a counter attack. Von Capell's resignation was a good thing and Tripitz had climbed down in his estimation of the prospects of submarines.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They had the great news and it convinced him. He expected there would be an armistice in a few weeks time. Believed the Germans would decide to cut their losses as they were fighting without allies, were economically isolated, and wanted to prevent invasion of their country. He didn't feel they had been sufficiently punished but never could be. Sets out his views on how he thought the war would end.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written onboard the S.S. Sardinia, ‘in the Mediterranean towards Malta’

Brief Summary
He was keeping a diary with detailed descriptions about the people and events on board ship. He hadn't enjoyed the first few days and was missing her. Lists what he was reading. Describes fellow passengers.

Detailed Summary
Was concerned about when she would receive his letter and hoped he would receive a letter from her once he arrived in Malta but he has his doubts. He wasn't going to write an elaborate account of his life on board ship at the moment as he was keeping a sort of diary which he would send to her at intervals. [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1921/2, 7 and 26].

She must have been depressed after they parted but he admired her for being so cheerful and brave all the time. Asks her to think of him especially at the times she gave John [their son] his bottle. He had found the first days on the boat utterly hateful and longed to have her with him. He supposes the Morgan children were with her at the Holt. Asks about the garden listing six garden chores which she or Cheeseman could do. It was turning out to be a dull letter.

He had finished Queen Victoria, most of which he greatly enjoyed, and was also reading Martin Chuzzlewit and Santayana. He had been working on his Book of Geoffrey but had made little progress and felt depressed about it. At dinner he sat between Colonel Frazer and a very undistinguished man called Holyake. He describes the Colonel and his conversational skills, the seating plan, and fellow guests at the table. The intellectual life on the boat was lacking and the best person to talk to was the Auxiliary man who had travelled in the East but he was a bore. There were no organised athletics and they had only managed a dance for about 4 couples to the accompaniment of a gramophone. Wished there was more activity. Describes the beauty of the sunlit Mediterranean, the slow pace of travel, and sitting in the bows alone watching the wide sea. They had seen Gibraltar at dawn, the Sierra Nevada later in the day and then the African coast. Describes seeing the Atlas range which contained several fine peaks and rock faces which carried plenty of snow and went up to 10,000 or even 11,000ft.

He anticipated spending six hours in Malta.

Postscript - Wanted to hear about her domestic arrangements and how she liked her companions.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 15 1916'

He had been rather depressed as he had visited their trenches after a futile attack. Describes his reaction to seeing corpses and the fact that seeing the wounded always distressed him.

Communications had failed as all the wires were broken when he arrived. He had a line laid and hoped to do useful registration but due to a disgusting piece of mismanagement by higher authorities he couldn’t get anything done.

Had been busy the day before in the battery and doing the accounts for the canteen and the mess which he hated doing.

Thanks her for the parcel and especially the lavender but says the rock buns arrived in a bad state. He asks her to rethink her packaging possibly using tins. Bell has stuff put in tins and then wrapped in cloth. Soup tablets and prunes arrived in good condition. Asks for a new strap for his wristwatch.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from 14 Royal Terrace, Weymouth

Had been looking for rooms for her but hadn’t been successful yet. The country east of Dorchester to Weymouth had been eliminated. Preston and Osmington were no good. Dorchester was unattractive but small so she could get out to the countryside easily. There was Brockhampton which was in a lovely situation sloping down to the river. There was a cottage kept by a spinster of about 40 and she would need to bring bedding and order food from Dorchester. Asks what she thinks about it all and outlines other possibilities.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday July 15'

Comments on good news they had heard about the battle and his three days at the observation post where he didn’t see the cavalry go over because it was misty. Describes the sight of trenches on fire due to the use of a new French invention – flame throwers.

Wanted to hear her thought on his views on religious education. Planned to write a book about it.

Discusses his thoughts about how the war might end and the damage done to the French countryside.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Camp III’.

Brief Summary
Description of his and Somervell's recconnaisance to find a route from the North Col to Everest.

Detailed Summary
It was 7.30 am on a bright and almost windless morning and he was sitting on a box outside of the tent awaiting breakfast - tea had just come. Still freezing in the shade but the sun was trying to be warm. Explains why he was up so early and that they had eaten their evening meal early for the sake of their cook, and had been lying in the tent ever since. He and Somervell had slept well.

He had The Spirit of Man, a volume of Shakespeare and a pack of cards so there was no real difficulty about passing the time agreeably. He had found Will’s pamphlet from last mail in his pocket. Gives his thoughts on it.

On 10th they left Base Camp and slept at Camp I and on the two succeeding days came on to Camp III quite easily. Most of the porters were to go straight back to No. 1 Camp, rest for a day, and then bring up more loads again. They were expected that day. Two porters and a cook had remained with them. First objective was to establish a route to the North Col. Did this on 13th which was an interesting day. Problem was to get up without cutting lots of steps in hard ice. All the lower part of last year’s route was ice. Hard work to make a staircase and that route would have been unsatisfactory for porters as most were untrained. Instead they chose a route to the left, straight up to the point where they had to cross a very steep snow slope. Was very hard work with a lot of chipping and kicking of steps. One porter came with them (the other was sick). Took ice pegs and rope and the porter carried a Mummery tent, which was the first tent to reach the North Col. Almost midday when they reached the snow shelves below the edge. Wind was blowing up the snow and the great broken cubes of ice above them were wonderfully impressive. He and Somervell proceeded along the shelf intending to reach the lowest point of the col and look over the other side, just as he, Bullock, and Wheeler had last September.

They were roped together and afraid of the wind. Their way was blocked by a crevasse just too wide to jump. The main edge joining Everest to the North Peak was on the other side of this gap not more than 10 ft wide. There seemed to be a way to the left but a few moments later they were up against an obstacle not to be climbed without a ladder and there was no alternative. Faced the prospect of a longer job than anticipated they. They ate four sweet biscuits and some mint cake. Saw a gap where a steep ice slope came down from the North Peak. Continued along the shelf in that direction, turned the flank of an ice gendarme and were able to work up steep snow to the ridge and look out over the westward view. Everest was still to be traversed. The true North Col up on which the N. Arete of Everest springs up was at the south end of that ridge. The slopes on the west side were fearfully precipitous and they had to expect broken ground. They had to leap two crevasses in the first 50 yards. Then found it easy going and reached a minor snow summit. The view to the west was opening out and they sat down to look at it and for a time they completely forgot their quest. Started again and saw a clear way ahead, so they can get to Everest by way of the North Col. The distance of Chang La [North Col] from this camp was not as great as it appeared on the map or on a photo taken from Lhakpa La [high mountain pass] last year. The only trouble was the labour of getting up to the pass but this would be easier now the steps were prepared. They were back in camp about 5.30 pm, each with a bad height headache and too tired to eat a meal.

The porters arrived that day with Crawford, hopefully with enough rations to allow a party of them (8 to 12) to stay there. If so they planned to take a first lot of loads up to Chang La [North Col] tomorrow 16th. Rest on 17th, to Chang La [North Col] with 8 porters, and sleep there 19th, to the highest point we can get loads, say 25,000, with 3 or 4 loads on the 19th, porters returning here, others sleeping again at Chang La [North Col], and then on 20th or 21st up to their highest camp and on next day.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Celebrations of peace had continued and took the form of a run out and a large meal. He had been to Lille with the Major, Pemberton, and three men from a battery in Arras. Lille was the third largest town in France, although France didn’t have many. They had lunch in a large hotel used an officers’ club which was entirely an English institution. They had then walked around the town and met others so the party grew to 10. He was depressed in the 1 1/2 hours in the ante room as it was impossible for him to join in the conversation and it was a crowd of rowdy officers of unprepossessing appearance. He skilfully manoeuvred himself to be placed at dinner between two men who seemed capable of ideas beyond incidents in military careers and performances of drunken heroes. Had a long and interesting talk about America. That and half a bottle of bubbly helped him survive the evening. He always started these evenings thinking he would enjoy himself with agreeable companions until he realised that, whatever they were individually, collectively they were all barbarians with whom he had nothing in common.

Trafford had turned up the day before yesterday and had lunch with them. His visit to Trafford was deferred until he had moved quarters. He was trying to arrange for Trafford to take him to Beauvais as he wanted to see the cathedral.

Was sorry she hadn’t found sympathy in the family for her Montessori adventures. That was so like families but she had any amount from him so she shouldn’t be discouraged.

He hoped Trafford would be sending over two planes to photograph the guns so as to furnish them with souvenirs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Magdalen Hospital, Winchester.

Gives his opinion about what colour and type of fur she should buy and the colour she should chose for her new winter dress. Was happy about how well his foot was healing. Had been enjoying the past few days reading by a warm stove looking out at a pretty view. Inspired by Loom of Youth he had started writing a series of articles about education. He intended to send the first to the Daily Telegraph when it was finished. He rejoiced in the fine weather even though he couldn't walk on the Downs as it meant everything for the men in Flanders and our chances.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Responds to news in her letters. They had been in the same camp for two weeks. He had spent some of the time at the advanced camp climbing with Bullock. Snow had put an end to their climbs and Howard-Bury had ordered them to leave camp and return to the lower one. Bullock carried a pink umbrella on the marches. Didn't think much of Howard-Bury's official accounts of their climbs. Describes other members of the party and their physical fitmess. Was still hoping to attempt to summit but it would depend on the weather.

Detailed Summary
They had received two mail deliveries and everyone in camp spent a long time silently reading their letters. He responds to news in her letter mentioning Bob Morgan, photos of the children, the Keynes, O’Malley, the Fletchers, the Brocks, the Trews [?], and thanks her for being very diligent about circulating his news. He feared his letters had been very dull but had been writing partly for himself as a record which he otherwise wouldn't have made.

He had received a letter from Avie and David who had both enjoyed their visits to Ruth and he had enjoyed hearing about her from them. He had also heard from his mother and father who were very happy after visiting her. His father seemed to be greatly impressed by John [their son]. Mentions Miss Walround, Edith Stopford, the Reads, and that it was nice to hear that Geoffrey Young was anxious to hear his news. Was delighted by photos of the children. Asks in detail about the state of the garden, her upcoming plans, and whether she is going to Westbrook [Ruth's father’s house].

They were still in the same place as over a fortnight ago. Describes working on the upper camp (1st Advanced at 20,000 ft) with supplies, attempting to stay up there, trekking with Bullock and of pitching a tent in the usual snowstorm. Describes the fine granular snow of high altitudes. After a good night’s sleep he had woken to see the roof of his tent hanging inwards and a white world outside and conditions for climbing were entirely hopeless.

He had a Kodak camera to take snapshots of the porters and their snow-bound camp and a quarter-plate to take photos of the mountains. Spent the morning sitting on a rock taking six photographs before a porter arrived bearing a chit from Howard-Bury who had nothing more to say than to urge the obvious. After a debate with Bullock they had packed up the tents, covered the stores and prepared to go down to Howard-Bury’s camp. Bullock had a pink umbrella which he invariably carried on the march.

He had told her little of the movements of the others as he trusted she would have been informed by Howard-Bury’s articles. These were not very informative and he wasn't impressed by them.

They were all together for the first time since Kampa Dzong. Raeburn on his arrival was almost a broken and heart-breaking figure, and when Howard-Bury and Wollaston arrived on 6 September they sketched over some difficulties about stores and had settled down quite amicably. Wollaston was a rather solitary bird who was always jolly and friendly to talk with, but he had the impression that he was more tired of the expedition than the rest of them.

He was happy but thought the month was too late already for their great venture and they would have to face great cold. Feared his hopes and plans for seeing something of India on the way back wouldn't be possible.

The interest remained for him and he felt that when they returned to Darjeeling he wouldn’t leave without regret. He’d like to undertake a few other ascents, less ambitious but perhaps more delightful. He was looking forward to seeing her again.

Wheeler had been taking photographs and Morshead had been keeping him company. There was a shortage of tents due to Raeburn’s unexpected arrival, so Morshead had slept in the tent with Bullock and himself [Mallory]. It was a disorderly but happy arrangement. Wheeler came in to eat with them while the rest had their meals round a table in a pukka mess tent. There was plenty of talk and good cheer but he still thought Wheeler was not a fit man. He Morshead and Bullock made a good trio. Heron had arrived yesterday as cheerful and good natured as ever and he promised him a bit of rock from the summit of Everest.

17 September [letter continues] - the weather had changed and they had woken to find the sky clear and remaining clear. The day before he had enjoyed a good walk with Morshead and Bullock and were rewarded with a beautiful view of Everest. That day he, Morshead and Howard-Bury had ascended a snow peak on the boundary ridge and seen a glorious view. He could see Kangchenjunga [third highest mountain in the world] and all the higher mountains to the East. Makalu straight opposite across the valley was gigantic and Everest at the head of the valley was very fine too. The snow was not melting as it should; above 20,000 ft or so it was powdery under a thin crust and it was impossible to get along without snowshoes, and fears they’ll have to pack up at once if the snow didn't melt properly on the glacier. Morshead was going badly and he [Mallory] was feeling the height a good deal. Altogether his hopes were about zero.

He had been thinking about the children and asked her to kiss them and show them the lozenges below [see drawings at the bottom of the letter] which were meant for special birthday kisses. Tomorrow they were going up again so he was busy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes their continued trek, the food, the views of Everest, and taking photos.

Detailed Summary
15 June - Left early from Trenkye [Tinki]. Had climbed and taken photos, was disappointed by mist blocking the views of the mountains, and joined with Morshead and his surveyors. Morshead was outwalking him as neither Guy [Bullock] or him were feeling well. Next day they followed the river, were entertained by the brother of the Phari Dzongpen [governor], complained of the curious food. On following day's march he rode ahead with Bullock, following the river whose course was unmapped.

20 June - They forded a river, entering the southward valley Arun proper, between the Sikkim peaks and Makalu. They were penetrating a secret as no European had been there before. They continued their march and he looked westward from Kampa Dzong seeing that Makalu and Everest had peeped over the top in the distance. Complains of the cloud coverage. They were in suspense waiting for a good view of Everest when ‘suddenly our eyes caught a glint of snow through the clouds and gradually, very gradually…visions of the great mountain sides and glaciers and ridges…appeared through the floating rifts and had meaning for us…for we had seen the whole mountain-range… until incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared. We knew it to be Everest’. Describes the shape of Everest and the connecting cols dividing the great mountain from its neighbours. They were reunited with the porters and the greater party who were shivering in their tents, while sunset brought views of Everest to the south.

22 June - It was a great joy to see Everest and he had taken photos. Everest had become more than a fantastic vision, it haunted his mind.

Discusses photography and problems with a telephotographic lens. He had taken a photo of camp. Describes fording the Arun River with Bullock, a sudden immersion, the fear of quicksand, and manoeuvring their beasts up a sand cliff, which was far from easy. He describes the view, mentioning Makalu, the Arun gorge, Tinki Dzong, the North of Everest, the steep ascent during the sunset, and seeing some animal tracks. He and Bullock had struggled with their ponies.

[Letter continues in the evening] - gives facts about his reconnaissance trip with Bullock, and how when fording the river his pony was nearly drowned, he lost his mackintosh cape and waterlogged his glasses. He had a glorious view of Everest and was very pleased with his physical condition. He had a plan to explore the N.W. faces of the mountain with Bullock and 10 porters. He was worried about the monsoon. They had stayed in an old Chinese fort. Wollaston re-joined the group, but they were still waiting for the mail and he hoped to get another letter from her. The photographs were developed and he was greatly delighted that 5 rolls of his taken with a small kodak were very successful. Wet days were expected and he intended to fix a base camp and a further high camp at about 20,000 ft.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Weymouth

He had been sick and had a sore back which he had been rubbing and was feeling better. Things were settling down with a quiet, agreeable set of men. He had been for a walk with Dodds, late of Oxford and the Admiralty. Hooper, whom he shared a room with, was not interesting but unobjectionable and disposed to be friendly. They were to start at 8.30am next morning which was too early a start considering the number of men staying in the accommodation needing breakfast.

Wonders what she thought about his last letter [describes potential places for her to live in the area]. Would not be able to do anything more about it until next weekend.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received another batch of her letters. Describes in more detail the layout of their previous position in relation to the Germans, trenches and guns. Unpleasantness of the prevalence of dead bodies and how you would find a corps when digging anywhere near the surface. His own dugout had been clean.

Describes their new position which was different. Their guns were due to arrive that night. Expected to be very busy. Hoped big things weren’t planned for that part of he line just yet. Warned her that she would have to wait for news because of the difficulty of communications in a battle. Tries to reassure her.

Glad to hear of Clare waving and he had a longing to see her. Glad she was seeing the Brocks and asks if he had seen his pamphlet as he was the one man he would want to approve of it. Asks if Benson and Fletcher had received a copy.

[Postscript] – had never felt anxious about the Italians. Discusses prospect of the war ending in August and the effect of the defeat of the Austrians on Germany. They were a full battery now. Bell had gone back to their previous position for one day and had now rejoined them. He saw the garden there which had been ravaged. Their Major had been promoted and they were hoping Lithgow would be promoted in his place.