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Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Describes his and Bullock's reconnaisance. Initial misunderstanding about he two Chomolingas. Describes troubles with rations, taking photographs and the landscape and flowers.

Detailed Summary
There would be reports in The Times about the expedition which had been extraordinarily exciting and interesting in the last week. Their idea was to follow a great valley north of Everest where they saw the pass of their desire between Everest and the first peak to the North, but after three days travelling in the clouds they found they were cut off from the north col by an impassable barrier. They were disappointed. They were retracing their steps and this misadventure was part of the reconnaissance.

Describes their first day’s march, getting rations at a village, and being told by locals that the way to Chomolungma [Tibetan name for Everest] was to the left but they soon made disconcerting observations that they were not going the correct way. On the second days march they went up 4,000 ft seeing lovely flowers, two pretty lakes and grazing ground for yaks.

Then headed south west but from Kharta their direction should have been due west. Their local guide told them there were two Chomolungas, they guessed the other was Makalu. Explained they wanted to go to the one which was to the right. On the following morning's march there was a steep valley bed, a stream, a rickety bridge, lovely meadows, the end of a glacier, and a steep hillside running up to a tremendous cliff. They were following a valley from Makalu to Everest.

Reports on rain, Tibetan tents, and feeling baffled as they wanted to be to the north of the east or north east ridge. There was another valley running east and west ending in the col between Everest and the North Peak.

They saw the great east face of Everest and assessed that all the lower slopes were impossible from a climber’s point of view. Describes the east ridge and landscape. The following day they pushed on toward an advance camp to about 18,000 ft in poor weather.

Woke on 7 August to a cloudless starry sky. Describes the colours of the mountains. The whole range of peaks far exceeded any mountain scenery that he ever saw before.

He waited to take photos at sunrise and if they didn't come out well he would cry. Their objective was to get up a pass and a big glacier that blocked their view to the north col. Had a hurried breakfast, took more photographs and pushed toward the third peak from the east ridge of Everest.

They could see clearly that Everest joined other peaks and wanted to see more. Bullock thought the next section would prove impossible and it was stiff work. Whilst the party lay down and slept he took photographs and examined the north peak. As the desired view was still hidden he took two volunteers to the top with him. It was only a matter of 500 ft, but the snow was very deep and lying at a terribly steep angle and they had a struggle. They got to the summit of that peak and he could see a high snow cwm under the north east face of Everest. The next objective was to find the outlet.

The next day’s march would take them through an undiscovered country. For the first time he was not feeling perfectly well. The glands of his throat and most of the muscles were affected but that could be nothing to do with the exertions of climbing.

There had been trouble about the porters' rations. Wollaston and Morshead were at Kharta and Wheeler was not expected for another fortnight. Describes the flowers he had recently seen and thought they might be a new discovery. Was disappointed when Howard-Bury told him Wollaston had made an earlier discovery.

Was sorry he couldn't share his photographs with her. The bad ones were hardly worth sending and Howard-Bury had sent some photos home to the Royal Geographical Society. Suggests she find a way of seeing them there.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [two pages missing]

Brief Summary
Had been feeling weak with a sore throat and Bullock had continued to search for the valley without him. Morshead had joined him in camp after Bullock had left. Bullock sent message that he was on wrong track. Next day feeling better so he and Morshead set out to join up with Bullock. Continued their search for a route taking photographs on the way. Had to send back to base camp for more rations but there was a shortage.

Detailed Summary

[Letter starts on page ‘3’] - Three days march to a new mountain base camp. [Aug 11 written in the margin]. Hoped he was feeling fitter as he had been feeling abdominally weak and had a sore throat.

13 August [written in the margin] - Bullock had gone on alone to find the valley. It was a depressing moment after all his work to reconnoitre Everest as it seemed like he would miss the climax. He was sorry he had to hand over the responsibility of deciding the line of assault. On the same morning that Bullock left, the surprise arrival of Morshead brought companionship. That evening he had received a chit from Bullock saying that the valley he was following ended too soon in a high pass. He was on the wrong track.

14 August - He was feeling stronger and went with Morshead to follow Bullock up the valley. They were lucky with the weather and were able to see both Everest and the North Peak. The topography was difficult to make out but there was a continuous way from the valley to the high snow col which they had seen the other day from their peak (21,500 ft) and it was possible to advance. He thought this was the right way to Everest.

15 August - They trekked through the valley with their lighter tents and met Bullock’s party at the valley junction. Due to bad weather they could see nothing of what lay in front of them and came to a stop short of the point he had wanted to reach. Snow was falling and there was cloud cover.

16 August [written in the margin] - They had proceeded up a stony hillside to the ridge above them for a better view. They followed the ridge to a summit of 20,500 ft or 1,700 ft above their camp. There was a splendid view point from where they could see where they should go. They had paused for nearly an hour taking photos in all directions. He describes their decent nearly a thousand feet and of crossing a crevasse. They had been in clouds for two hours and could see nothing. He was feeling far from well with a headache and he was inclined to go no further which was shared by the rest of the party. He went down the glacier and completed a valuable piece of reconnaissance by finding the shortest way back to camp. They had a late night. Rations had to be summoned from base camp. Two sahibs and three porters with two days supplies were sent to reach their snow col and look over into the cwm of the N.W. of Everest to see the glacier running down northward and follow it wherever it might go and thus solve the mystery of its exit.

17 August - The porters returned from the base camp and told them there were no rations there. He suspected some trickery on Gyalzen’s part. They established a higher camp on a shelf under an ice cliff (19,900 ft). Snow continued into the evening. The porters returned from base camp before dark with barely a day’s supplies and so they had to abandon their plans of going down the unknown glacier. Morshead’s men were able to spare enough food for one porter, so they took young Nimya [Nyima] Sherpa and sent the others back down.

18 August - Made preparations for an early start but were held up by Morehead’s cook. They wore their snowshoes to cross a glacier by the last of the moonlight and despite the lingering mist they could see the peaks and steer on a solid mountain side. After dawn it was difficult to see and impossible to make out the snow surfaces and the ascents and descents were equally unexpected. Crevasses forced them to the right until they were confronted by the icefall and had to climb rocks covered with 2 or 3 inches of snow and cold to the fingers but not difficult to climb. While they breakfasted the mist thickened and they went on about 9.20 am with Bullock leading. The heat returned like a furnace. He had been able to maintain an even rhythm even on the steeper parts by exhaling and inhaling once for each step but now he had to proceed rather differently. Describes how he paced himself with his breathing on the steeper slopes and the difficulty of walking in snowshoes, once causing him to ‘capsize completely’. They reached the col and he describes what he could see through the mist.

[Letter ends, no sign off].

Brief Summary
Reconnaissance to find a route to the North Col and therefore a route to the summit of Everest.

Detailed Summary
On the first page Mallory gives a very brief summary of events on each day.

2 August – Elaborate preparations to leave Kharta. Took same mountaineering stores as they had from Tingri but left behind the primus stoves and a bundle of sleeping sacks. Thought they were in easy reach of the base of Kharta and could send for them later. Main problem was rations. Porters had decided they didn’t have enough to eat. Howard-Bury had accused Gyaltzen of making money out of them. Needed to devise a way of providing rations so Gyaltzen was not involved buying them. It was decided he would buy food on credit during the march and the Colonel would pay later.

It was a hazardous adventure but the prospects seemed rosy. The great glacier stream joining the Arun just below them was presumed to come from Everest and the left branch from the North Col. They expected to be on the North Col within a few days. However, the start from Kharta was dilatory. The Sidar was up late and hadn’t organised anything. The loads had been counted wrong, they had no animals and had to leave three loads behind. In Shikar Kharta [Kharta Shekar] they were received by the Dzongpen [governor] and had tea and biscuits. There was an argument with the porters about rations and they had to be urged to continue. They stopped at a house to drink and admire the rugs that were being woven. Then they came to a monastery where one porter refused to continue on. The porter put up the tents at the junction of the valley after only ½ days march.

3 August – As they had stopped after so short a march the day before they had a long march on the second day. They had a rise of 4,000 ft to the pass. They pitched tents on a yak grazing ground above the valley. Flowers very good on both sides the pass and he found the blue primula. No sheep or goats.

4 August – Clouds had not lifted and they had a descent of 800 ft to river bed. There was rich vegetation which he describes. Heavy rain cam e down and they decided to set up camp although it was early. Thought they were going in the wrong direction and wanted clouds to clear to make sure. Discussion with Headman and was assured a route did exist up the valley

5 August – Clouds began to clear so they could see Everest. Reconnaissance out from the camp and up a final low peak showed no easy way existed which could take them round to the end of East ridge.

6 August - Fine morning and pleasant walk up the right bank of the glacier. Fine show of gentians. A steep rise of about 800 ft lead to a very small lake where we camped. Snow fell almost continuously in afternoon and evening. Clouds broke to give a wonderful view at sunset.

7 August – Later start than planned. Cook was ill and everything was covered with snow but they got off at 4.10am. Their objective was the conspicuous sharp show peak, third from the N.E. Arete of Everest. Describes the trek to the col which they reached at 8.45am. Had a hearty meal and took two photos. Not possible to see the head of the glacier north of them. They climbed up and it was clear that the glacier head was a snow col. He insisted that the peak ahead must be climbed in order to try and see the north col. The next section was very steep. The east face in front of them had to be avoided. The south face was separated from them by a broad gully. Snow was very deep and he was constantly thinking of the danger of avalanches. They managed to get onto the steep south slope. The porters (Nimya, [Nyima] Alugga, Pema, and Dasno) learnt much about using the rope. They reached the far edge at 12:15 pm and looked across directly to the east ridge of Everest although still couldn’t see the North col. The party lay down to sleep while he took photos and ate some food before trekking the final slopes. He then went on with Nimya [Nyima] and Dasno. They abandoned their snowshoes at the foot of a very steep snow face. Dasno then abandoned them. As he thought the snow was in too bad a condition. It was a place to fear an avalanche. It was exhausting and he disn’t get a clear view as a reward. Bullock led down, very slow in the steep snow. He had a baddish headache by this time and felt unwell. When they got back at about 4.30pm he felt exhausted and feverish and in spite of warm clothes couldn’t prevent himself shivering.

8 August – Porters were delayed in arriving so they prepared to move without them. He felt weak walking. Met up with porters and heard Howard-Bury had arrived at Base Camp. Reached Base Camp at 11.15am. Howard-Bury was out photographing. He went to bed. Discussed rations again and decided to give the porters a share of the balance and they were happy.

9 August - Felt slack with swollen glands in the neck and a sore throat but was fitter to walk. Collected flowers and seeds on the way down. Howard-Bury decided to go back to Kharta by another pass. Had to stand and wait ½ hour for the clouds to thin so he could take 2 photographs of the summit. He saw a beautifu lblue gentian which he had never seen before in the Alps. He realised he wasn’t carrying his woollen waistcoat. Retraced his steps but couldn’t find it. Offered a reward to any porter who could find it. They looked but couldn’t see it.

10 August – Saw a tiny yellow saxifrage which Wollaston hadn’t got. Continued down hill and was pleased he could leave Bullock behind going downhill as well as up. The meadows in the valley were delicious and very warm.

11 August - Bathed in the stream. Had been promised yakmen were coming but they didn’t arrive. Managed to get hold of two yaks and left packs for porters to bring. He felt unwell and the porters were slack. Gorang lied by saying there was no water higher up. Had to persuade the porters to continue. Found water and a good sheltered spot for the camp.

12 August: A days rest and fuel collecting. He kept to his bed.

13 August - feeling feeble with a sore throat and swollen glands. Morshead arrived with a note from Wollaston and Bury which cheered him a good deal. Bullock sent a note in the evening with depressing news that the valley was ‘no good’. This mean fresh efforts of reconnaissance. Was a comfort to have Morshead.

14 August – they searched for a possible approach and had been mistaken about the topography of the expected valley. Hoped two more days would settle the question.

15 August – He and Morshead followed a shelf but found no exit to their glacier and had to stop, camping at a place with just enough room where the ground was not too sloping to pitch the three tents.

16 August - Best chance of a clear view was to go up. Doesn’t know why he went one except he was so miserable he wanted to reduce the rest of the party to a like state of mind. Bullock lead down the glacier badly doing little to avoid the crevasses which were covered by snow. They discussed plans at some length. A sketch map had arrived from Wheeler the day before showing a glacier [East Rongbuk Glacier] of enormous dimensions running north from Everest and draining into the Rongbuk valley but it’s inaccuracies had made them discount Wheler’s conclusion too much. He showed no East ridge to the North Peak. He thought wheeler had mistaken that ridge for the N.E. Arete of Everest (which he showed S.E.). He had little hope it would be of service to them. It could only be so if it drained on to the Rongbuk valley as Bullock thought probable. Either Wheeler must be right or the North Col was lower than they thought and the cwm high enough to push its glacier near it. They agreed he would descend to the north to see if there was a glacier in that direction.

17 August Gives three causes of the failure of rations supply.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Asks if she wants a holiday with him on his way home. Makes suggestions as to where they could meet, when, and how they would pay for it. Outlines an idea to return with Nyima (one of the porters) who would live with them as a servant. He had fallen ill with sore glands and throat and Bullock had to continue the reconnaisance without him but was unsuccesful. Morshead joined him in camp and as he felt better they joined Bullock.

Detailed Summary
Says he has two projects to discuss. First is whether she would like a holiday with him on his way home. Suggests meeting in Rome or Marseilles, and perhaps touring Provence and walking with rucksacks to Bordeaux. Or they could go to Tours, Chartres or Paris. Then suggests the two could meet in Gibraltar and tour Spain together and take a ship back from Lisbon. Then mentions the Riviera and staying with the Busey’s or would she enjoy Italy more. Asks her to make the plans and says his dates are quite uncertain.

He hopes to get to Darjeeling by 1 October but says there may be delays. He wants to spend two-three weeks in India. She should come supplied with information as he would know nothing about the trains in Europe. If they go to Spain or Italy she must be responsible for the language. Makes suggestions as to who she should contact to make arrangements. Wants to spend some of their £500 War Savings Certificate on giving her a really lovely holiday. Discusses the logistics of train tickets and advises her to consider the relative prices in different countries. She must telegraph him via Bullock in Darjeeling to let him know in what town he should meet her. Gives more detailed instructions and discusses the clothing he may need. He will wire her the date of his departure from India and the name of the ship so she can find out the date of his arrival.

The second project is his idea to bring back one of the expedition porters as a servant. He describes the hypothetical scenario at length detailing the duties in the house he would undertake and asking how he would fit in with the other servants. He suggests Nimya [Nyima] a boy of about 18 who had a perfect temperament and was one of the most helpful people he had ever seen. Details potential wages, dietary requirements, transportation costs. He would have to come for at least two years and then probably return to India. Wonders if he would be happy and whether the other servants would like him. Describes his appearance.

[Letter continues later] - Says he has become ill at a critical moment after a two day trek with sore glands and throat and it wasn’t worth the risk of going up the valley as he must save himself for the big attack. Bullock had gone on alone and sent a chit reporting that the valley didn’t lead to the north col, but ended in a col between two peaks 23,800 and 23,400 N.N.E. of Everest. He was cheered by the arrival of Morshead.

14 August - Feeling better so he went with Morshead up the same valley as Bullock which was very interesting. He planned to camp and reconnoitre. He and Morshead were out for 8 hrs and he had gone to bed as soon as they came back and was no worse. He was tremendously excited as the day after tomorrow they may have their line of attack fixed and if they did it would be a very good one because they would be able to get a very long way without camping on ice.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Pleased with his photographs and hopes to make some money giving lectures on his return home. He had been unwell and stayed in camp when Bullock had gone on alone but was unable to find a way through the valley. Morshead had arrived and the next day he el better so they joined up with Bullock. Describes their clims, camps and troubles with rations. They were successful in finding the route to the North Col and therefore the route to the summit.

Detailed Summary
He was pleased with his photography efforts and printing which would make excellent slides for lectures. Asks her to keep the prints very carefully. He had written to Hinks suggesting he should give some lectures during the winter. He would let the Committee consider the financial arrangements. Asks her if she would like an American tour. They had received no English mail since 21 July [one month prior] and wonders if floods in Tibet had caused the delay. Says he was no longer in poor health and suspects he had tonsilitis.

Bullock had gone off alone reconnoitring and Morshead had arrived the same morning. He had received a chit from Bullock explaining that the valley would not lead to Everest. He spent the day in bed feeling weak, but the next morning was feeling much stronger. Describes his walk up the first valley to the left with Morshead. He didn’t expect to find a valley leading directly to the north col at the foot of the ridge they wanted to climb. He judged they might find a good way to Everest in that direction.

15 August - Continued trekking with Bullock, met the porters, brought down the tents, and took them a long way up the valley which he and Morshead had reconnoitred. There were complications in the march which caused delays and they ending up short of where he wanted to be with no view of their way. They had an uncomfortable camp perched on a stony hillside with snow falling persistently all evening.

16 August - They followed the ridge above them to the top of a small peak (20,500 ft) which was a 1,700 ft rise in an hour an a quarter. They had a good view point and had a clear hour for photography. They had vague hopes of reaching their objective which was a distant snow col in direct line with the north peak, but then had to descend nearly 1,000 ft and it was bad going over a big glacier. There was thick mist all round them and he felt very, tired with a nasty headache. As it was clearly hopeless they turned back. They reached camp late and it was snowing persistently but they knew where they wanted to go and how to get there.

17 August - A very hesitating move with much discussion of what they might and might not do. The rationing arrangement had broken down badly and they were short of food. He blamed it on the incompetence of the sirdar [sardar] at their base camp. They decided to go on next day with only one porter and sent the rest down to the camp below. They hoped to reach their snow col while the snow was still hard but it was a dim hope because they knew fresh snow had fallen and it was always difficult to estimate how much. They needed their snowshoes despite them being heavy on a long march and having to lift a considerable amount of snow on the snowshoe and it being worse for the leader than anyone following.

They reached the col where there were snow covered rocks above the icefall. It was not an agreeable way of passing time. For most of the time they were enveloped in a thin mist which obscured the view and made, one world of snow and sky.

Morshead, who knew the hottest heat of the plains in India, had said that he had never felt any heat so intolerable as this. They continued plodding on and needed a tremendous and continually conscious effort of the lungs. Up the steep final slopes he found it necessary to stop and breath as hard as he could for a short space in order to gain sufficient energy to push up a few more steps. Bullock and the porter had struggled on behind him and Morshead fell out near the top but re-joined them on the col. The clouds hid the peaks when they got there but the expedition had been a success. As they suspected there was a glacier running north from a cwm under the north east face of Everest. He wished it had been possible to follow it down and find out the secret of its exit. He describes the head of the glacier and that across it lay their way, across easy snow up the other side of the cwm where the approach to the north col, the long wished for goal, could not be difficult nor even long.

As they came down his thoughts were full of this prospect and this success. He didn't know when he had allowed himself so much enjoyment from a personal achievement. This success brought their reconnaissance to an end as they had found the way and they were now planning the attack.

These thoughts were needed during the hours that followed to stimulate the mind as it was the most dismal of processions. Morshead had been cooked going up to the col and later was in a state of collapse. The porters had all left their high camp, leaving three tents standing but they were cold and without provisions so they continued to the base. When daylight failed they missed their way and were compelled to make an arduous ascent up a steep rough hillside. A faint misty moonlight made it possible to step from boulder to boulder but Morshead was compelled to rest at frequent intervals. They continued until 2 am. He came in as fit and strong as ever after a long day in the hills and ate a hearty meal in my dry warm sleeping slack before lying down for untroubled sleep.

He organisation the camps and fuel supply before they went down to the expedition base at Kharta and waited on the weather while organising their push to the summit. He had been told that the monsoon should break at the end of the month and a fine spell should set in with September. [Bad weather ultimately delayed any progress for almost a month].

He was happy and full of the object in front of him although there were many times when his mind was full of her and home.

The expedition was short of candles and a little oil lamp constructed out of a vaseline pot was his light.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Mountain Base Camp on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
The weather had kept them at advanced camp and he had spent the time taking and developing photographs. Describes Kharta and the movements of other members of the party. Had fallen out with Howard-Bury especially over stores. Was getting on better with Bullock and liked Morshead. Was hoping the weather would clear as every day reduced the opportunities for attempt on summit. Was missing her and the children. In the postscript he asks her to buy him a suit.

Detailed Summary
He had received no news of her for five weeks and her last letter took six weeks to reach him. He had no news to report as the weather had kept them at advanced camp. He had been passing the time with photography and was pleased with the photos he had taken. To print successfully took a lot of time and care and he had been learning about ‘telephotography’ which was useful as well as interesting but the science of it was very complicated. He describes the correct exposures to apply to snow subjects expressing his frustration that he had to wait for the clouds.

There was soft weather at Kharta but it was not a good place to live. Describes the activities in the sahib’s kitchen and living at very close quarters. The men were dusty and hardly clean, and he and Bullock had shared a small tent where there was no room to make comfortable arrangements. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were going southward, leaving them four with Heron and Morshead. Three days before they left Wheeler replaced Heron. He can’t get over his dislike of Howard-Bury. They had argued about stores. He and Bullock were providing meat and tea for the porters out of their own money as Howard-Bury would allow them nothing outside their base rations.

They were at 17,500 ft which felt very cold after Kharta. He felt more happy than usual that evening as he had been getting on better with Bullock. That day they had been talking together much more friendly and cheerful than usual. He liked Morshead who was a considerate, unselfish, and helpful sort of person, and says Morshead and Wheeler would come together to use the camp for surveying and Wheeler would try and help them in their work at the same time. He thought Wheeler would find it difficult. He didn't look fit and wouldn't be trained to the extent of him and Bullock. Howard-Bury and Wollaston were coming up too and intended to get as high as they could, at least to their North Col camp.

It was getting dark and they were very short of candles. Morshead had an oil hurricane lamp and in the tent they had a miserable little oil dip which filled the air with smoky fumes. Wonders how many more damp sunless days they would have to wait through before the weather cleared. Every day delayed his meeting her again and decreased their chance of climbing the mountain by shortening the days and increasing the cold nights. There was to be an Everest show in the Queens Hall on 20 December - a very small affair with royalty present. He expected Howard-Bury to lecture, and hoped they would ask him to tell the mountain story.

He was missing the children and hadn't realised before how much they were part of his life. Asks her to tell them he was thinking of them and loved them and wonders what he might bring them home from the East mentioning the bazaar in Calcutta. He hoped to spend a couple of nights there on the way back and also to break the journey through to Bombay seeing several of the show places on the way. He had gone off his idea of returning to England with Nimya [Nyima] to be their servant. Asks if any of his friends ever think of him.

[Postscript] - 2 September - asks her to choose him a really tidy town suit from ‘Bran and Pike’ and to have it ready for trying on by the time he is home.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Responds to news in her letters. They had been in the same camp for two weeks. He had spent some of the time at the advanced camp climbing with Bullock. Snow had put an end to their climbs and Howard-Bury had ordered them to leave camp and return to the lower one. Bullock carried a pink umbrella on the marches. Didn't think much of Howard-Bury's official accounts of their climbs. Describes other members of the party and their physical fitmess. Was still hoping to attempt to summit but it would depend on the weather.

Detailed Summary
They had received two mail deliveries and everyone in camp spent a long time silently reading their letters. He responds to news in her letter mentioning Bob Morgan, photos of the children, the Keynes, O’Malley, the Fletchers, the Brocks, the Trews [?], and thanks her for being very diligent about circulating his news. He feared his letters had been very dull but had been writing partly for himself as a record which he otherwise wouldn't have made.

He had received a letter from Avie and David who had both enjoyed their visits to Ruth and he had enjoyed hearing about her from them. He had also heard from his mother and father who were very happy after visiting her. His father seemed to be greatly impressed by John [their son]. Mentions Miss Walround, Edith Stopford, the Reads, and that it was nice to hear that Geoffrey Young was anxious to hear his news. Was delighted by photos of the children. Asks in detail about the state of the garden, her upcoming plans, and whether she is going to Westbrook [Ruth's father’s house].

They were still in the same place as over a fortnight ago. Describes working on the upper camp (1st Advanced at 20,000 ft) with supplies, attempting to stay up there, trekking with Bullock and of pitching a tent in the usual snowstorm. Describes the fine granular snow of high altitudes. After a good night’s sleep he had woken to see the roof of his tent hanging inwards and a white world outside and conditions for climbing were entirely hopeless.

He had a Kodak camera to take snapshots of the porters and their snow-bound camp and a quarter-plate to take photos of the mountains. Spent the morning sitting on a rock taking six photographs before a porter arrived bearing a chit from Howard-Bury who had nothing more to say than to urge the obvious. After a debate with Bullock they had packed up the tents, covered the stores and prepared to go down to Howard-Bury’s camp. Bullock had a pink umbrella which he invariably carried on the march.

He had told her little of the movements of the others as he trusted she would have been informed by Howard-Bury’s articles. These were not very informative and he wasn't impressed by them.

They were all together for the first time since Kampa Dzong. Raeburn on his arrival was almost a broken and heart-breaking figure, and when Howard-Bury and Wollaston arrived on 6 September they sketched over some difficulties about stores and had settled down quite amicably. Wollaston was a rather solitary bird who was always jolly and friendly to talk with, but he had the impression that he was more tired of the expedition than the rest of them.

He was happy but thought the month was too late already for their great venture and they would have to face great cold. Feared his hopes and plans for seeing something of India on the way back wouldn't be possible.

The interest remained for him and he felt that when they returned to Darjeeling he wouldn’t leave without regret. He’d like to undertake a few other ascents, less ambitious but perhaps more delightful. He was looking forward to seeing her again.

Wheeler had been taking photographs and Morshead had been keeping him company. There was a shortage of tents due to Raeburn’s unexpected arrival, so Morshead had slept in the tent with Bullock and himself [Mallory]. It was a disorderly but happy arrangement. Wheeler came in to eat with them while the rest had their meals round a table in a pukka mess tent. There was plenty of talk and good cheer but he still thought Wheeler was not a fit man. He Morshead and Bullock made a good trio. Heron had arrived yesterday as cheerful and good natured as ever and he promised him a bit of rock from the summit of Everest.

17 September [letter continues] - the weather had changed and they had woken to find the sky clear and remaining clear. The day before he had enjoyed a good walk with Morshead and Bullock and were rewarded with a beautiful view of Everest. That day he, Morshead and Howard-Bury had ascended a snow peak on the boundary ridge and seen a glorious view. He could see Kangchenjunga [third highest mountain in the world] and all the higher mountains to the East. Makalu straight opposite across the valley was gigantic and Everest at the head of the valley was very fine too. The snow was not melting as it should; above 20,000 ft or so it was powdery under a thin crust and it was impossible to get along without snowshoes, and fears they’ll have to pack up at once if the snow didn't melt properly on the glacier. Morshead was going badly and he [Mallory] was feeling the height a good deal. Altogether his hopes were about zero.

He had been thinking about the children and asked her to kiss them and show them the lozenges below [see drawings at the bottom of the letter] which were meant for special birthday kisses. Tomorrow they were going up again so he was busy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Writes in the midst of packing and arrangements. He was disappointed that the end was so much tamer than he had hoped.

He carried the whole party on his shoulders to the end and they were turned back by a wind in which no man could live for an hour. He had plenty of reserve and could have carried on another 2,000 ft with ease had the conditions been favourable. They had established the way to the summit for anyone who cared to try the highest adventure and he didn't much regret having failed to beat the record as they could have done easily enough had fortune favoured them.

He and Bullock planned to tavel together to Lachen, in Sikkim, where Bullock hoped to meet his wife. He would then travel on to Darjeeling alone and expected to be there about the 20th.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Benares, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He was delighted she was coming to meet him. He had just missed the English Mail at Darjeeling, and hoped to get the mail at Agra. Had been sightseeing and was suffering with a chill similar to the one he had in August but with rheumatic legs rather than a swollen gland and sore throat. His legs were quite painful most of yesterday and today he could barely walk. He was looking at silks in Benares and had hardly bought anything but he had one or two patterns for her to see.

He supposes the last letter she had received from him had been written from Kharta or Everest. He was travelling towards her pretty busily, and there was a lot to tell. He had hoped to have an account of their last days on Everest but it had worked out so badly that he didn't want to send it but would show her when they meet at Marseilles.

Had a very gay time for the few days he was in Darjeeling. Explains Poojah when everyone takes a holiday. Had been to a fancy dress ball and a garden party. Describes the hotel veranda he was sitting on and writing from calling it an enormous house which stands among its shade giving trees like a rajah’s palace in a park. The hotel lacked fans and electric light but was clean enough. He was lead to expect the journey would be intolerable but he had only one change after leaving the mountain railway and a carriage to himself for almost 32 hrs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written aboard the S.S. Sardinia, 'Nearing Port Said’

Brief Summary
Describes the weather and motion of the sea. He had been sight seeing in Malta. Some uncertainty about end of voyage as there would be a delay in arriving at Calcutta. Due to arrive in Port Said the following day.

Detailed Summary
He had been very busy since they left Malta and the weather had been wet, muggy and windy. There had been a good deal of motion and quite a big sea the day before but he had not been seasick. There was something disturbing and restless about the motion of the sea which made it very difficult to concentrate on anything, it affected his head and produced a kind of dullness that made it impossible to write. Malta was a great joy, but he had been so busy seeing things he did not get newspapers or postcards and it was beyond him to describe Malta without the postcards as it had a very complicated harbour. There were several battleships in the harbour. Describes what he did during his four hours on shore including a visit to the church of St. John [the Knights of Malta] and seeing a very fine collection of armour at the Governors Palace.

He had completed one green rucksack and was happy about his equipment. Asks her to convey his welcome to the Holt and to their friends the Hodges who were visiting her. Asks her to return Hodge’s compass which he didn't need and would be sorry if it got lost. Asks her to send a copy of Robert Bridges Spirit of Man to V. J. Hamilton.

There was some uncertainty about the end of his voyage as the ship would have to stay at Madras unloading heavy cargo, delaying his arrival in Calcutta. Had written to Younghusband and Raeburn asking what he should do in Darjeeling. They were due to arrive in Port Said early the next day but he wouldn't receive her letter. He would try and send a postcard but it was unlikely as the mail steamer was short of coal. He thougth about her alot and had her photo in the book he was reading. He had received a jolly note from Rupert Thompson [a friend from the Pen y Pass climbing parties] and would write him a line of thanks.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Newcastle

Was sorry she wouldn't have seen anything of Avie and was glad she had been to St John's Vicarage [his parent's home].

Was delighted by events in the Balkans and in Palestine. The defeat of Bulgaria was more important as it would involve the railway to Constantinople. The American advance of 11 kilometres sounded like a good start. Someone had told him the war would be over within 3 weeks but even in a dream he couldn't swallow that optimism.

Describes a series of games he organised for the men on the beach which including nude swimming race, a three legged race and steeplechase.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had arrived in France from Newcastle and describes the journey in trucks and the extra provisions they had managed to sneak on board.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Asks Ruth to send some curtains for the Officers' mess and gives dimensions and opinion about colour and material. Describes the Officers' mess which was in a converted truck and includes two drawings showing the plan and the elevation.

The sleeping quarters were less glorious and comfortable.

Sends the proofs of his photographs which she can choose from although he didn't think they were very good.

He regretted the lack of solitude He could stay up later if it was warmer or if he didn't have a cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

They had the great news and it convinced him. He expected there would be an armistice in a few weeks time. Believed the Germans would decide to cut their losses as they were fighting without allies, were economically isolated, and wanted to prevent invasion of their country. He didn't feel they had been sufficiently punished but never could be. Sets out his views on how he thought the war would end.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Is keen to know what she and everyone at home thinks about the German Note and wants to see the English newspapers and describes how it is being reported in the Continental press. He thinks the journalists misunderstand the German and particularly the Prussian psychology which he sets out.

He wants to know what her father thinks of it all and asks her to tell him what he [George] thinks.

Was finding G. Young's Balkans amazingly good and was studying Othello.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had written asking him to take advantage of an Army Council order and return to Charterhouse. Had agreed to the application being made as soon as the Armistice was declared as he was keen to return as soon as possible. Asks her to tell the O'Malleys about it [they were tenants at the Holt] so they could find alternative accommodation.

Thanks her for the flour and advises about what cakes she should send out and at what intervals.

Likes the photo of her and Berry. Refers to comments she made in her last letter in which she said he made different appearances in her mind and that he thought they weren't all very agreeable. Asks whether he appears as a domestic tyrant irritable and unkind. Says things will be different when they are living together again and that she need not have any fears for the future.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The mess was very quiet. He had been very sleepy all day after an exciting night. Although he was never away from the old battle area the spirit of autumn was everywhere and there was nothing like the healing power of nature especially trees.

He thought much about Charterhouse and imagined teaching and dealing with boys there again and the prospect was pleasing in many ways.

That afternoon he had been to A. [Arras] and had explored the outlying parts. Some of the buildings had been damaged but very few in the south west of the town had been seriously damaged. He had talked to more than one lot of refugees. He had returned with a good supply of vegetables - cabbages, brussel sprouts, onions and celery, in his rucksack.

The post was unreliable because they didn’t have their own censorship stamps as they should and the letters had to pass through so many different and changing hands that he feared she would never receive some of his letters.

He hadn’t yet thought deeply about the latest German Note although it didn’t strike him as satisfactory. It was evident democratic opinion didn’t yet control Germany and they had to wait for that but he felt that miracle would happen.

He wanted very much to see Clutton-Brock’s book and asks her to order him a copy and send it out to him. He had almost finished George Young’s book about the Balkans which was very interesting. He had recently read George Eliot’s Silas Marner which was a very pretty story which she would like.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Responds to her letter by setting out his views on the failures of the Passchendaele offensive and on religion. He was delighted she was taking trouble about her religious life and didn’t mind if they differed. Didn’t think he would have much use for outward forms of Christian ritual but had no objection to her or anyone else valuing them. He worshipped in his own way in places other than in a Church setting.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters from her and was interested in all her London plans and sent his love to all the people she hoped to meet. Hoped she would get to see Doris [sister in law, married to Trafford Leigh-Mallory] as he wanted to know what was wrong.

Was pleased she was getting on so well with Montessori and that Clare liked the buttoning frame. She should exclude other sorts of toys now. Mrs Irvine would be an excellent person to work with. She had always been friendly. He wasn’t so sure about Mr Irvine but thought he must be a good chap and it made a great difference having congenial neighbours.

Thought there was a good chance of Germany accepting terms. The surrender of Austria and Turkey was very opportune.

Had spent an amusing day yesterday making the shelves for the curtain. There was a certain amount of fitting to be done but he had done a good job. He had fallen in love with the curtains and wondered if they could be used for their bedroom at the Holt.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was interested in her visit to the Montessori school and wanted to hear all the details. It was a splendid enterprise of hers. Was delighted to think of her getting in touch with the Montessori movement and working out practical ways for it to work in Godalming.

She must have been very busy on her visit to London. He was glad Trafford was so bright. Had no idea Doris had been dangerously ill. Hoped to hear more on her visit to Will and Ka. It was a pity she hadn’t managed to see Jelly.

He had been made quite anxious by all the talk of influenza [Spanish flu] and hoped she wouln’t get it. The number of deaths seemed most alarming. The wife of one of the men there had died of flu.

Had spent a very quiet day. The Major [Gwilym Lloyd George] and Wilson had gone to Calais on a pure joy ride. He had studied French in the morning and gone to a neighbouring wood in the afternoon to collect Autumn leaves and berries. He had received two parcels from her, one with ginger, macaroni and flour and the other with an excellent cake from J & M. Also had two Manchester Guardians by post which were particularly welcome as they couldn’t get yesterday’s paper.

The Major [Gwilym Lloyd George] had received orders to proceed to Versailles for several days. He was lucky and he wished his father was Prime Minister.

Was greatly amused by Aunt Eleanor’s envelopes. Asks Ruth to note the correct spelling of ‘probably’. Also the words ‘apparatus’ and ‘jealous’ [Ruth was dyslexic].

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

The post had become erratic again and, as he didn’t have a letter from her to respond to, he didn’t feel like corresponding as there was nothing much going on. The most exciting event that had happened was his visit to a lagoon with Wilson and Knibbs. These were a series of large ponds on the other side of the river. He had previously discovered a boat there which turned out to be a lumpy old barge with two improvised oars and one seat for the oarsman. They explored the lagoon and then decided to transfer it to the river which was hard work. They planned to go down river and visit a friend of Wilson’s. There were obstacles near where the French were reconstructing a railway bridge over the river and they had to get them to help partially demolish a wooden foot bridge to let them pass. They did so willingly and were amused by their performance. When they reached their destination they found the man they had come to see was out.

Today was wet and he had only left the truck to go to A. [Arras] to interview the joiner about some windows. The Major hadn’t gone to Versailles in the end. Wilson had left to go on a three week gunnery course. Glad it wasn’t him. The left section were still at the Base. Hoped they would come up soon as it would be amusing to see them.

Frequently thought of their future at the Holt with relish but how would she solve the preliminary difficulties of fuel and servants etc. He was impatient about the delay in publishing terms and hated to think of the war lasting a day longer than it needed to. Had rather lost interest in the war and politics at present although that would change when peace talks started.

Wanted to hear more about her trip to London. What books did she find in the London Library? Thanks her for looking for articles for him.

Sends his congratulations to her father on his recovery and asks when he was likely to walk again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had meant to answer her letters before dinner last night but had written to Mary Ann and after dinner he was very tired. Mary Ann had asked when he was likely to be back. They thought it would be six months after an armistice was called. This was silly as quite a large number would be gradually released as soon as an armistice was fixed and before general demobilisation. It was uncertain as they they didn’t know what reply the A. C. would make to Fletcher’s application [to release him early as he was a school master]. Would need to consider the situation regarding the supply of coal over the winter. Couldn’t turn the O’Malleys out of the Holt or themselves into the cold so they might have to live at Westbrook for 10 weeks.

Was sorry she wasn’t able to see the desired exponent of Montessori but she had been successful in getting the apparatus.

Glad his letters were arriving more regularly. Had she received the one in which he asked for a plane and a chisel? If not then she needn’t bother about it.

Liked what she said about Will and Ka who were a lovely couple. It would be a joy to knot up friendships after the war. They would have a sense of wonderful freedom from a depressing load after the war. He wrote to David that he felt that the sum of all the springs was bursting upon them. The only jar to their happiness would be his personal ambitions and she would have to help him keep them in order.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

He was feeling lazy tonight and hated himself for it. He seldom went to bed before midnight but was always first to breakfast which they never had before 9 am. They were having very bad weather which was rather depressing. Went to Arras that morning with Knibbs to shop for the mess. The cathedral had been used as an observation post and suffered damage.

Had received three letters from her and the curtain which he would hang tomorrow and it would be admired. He was happy to have the bill. They were cosy and had two rugs of the thinnest and meagrest description which served to cover the worst of the floor near the fireplace.

They seemed in agreement about returning to the Holt. He wasn’t tiring of Montessori, it was interesting that she was learning all about it. To answer her question about furniture they had apart from the table, they had three armchairs and the low deep shelves. It wasn’t a big apartment. He had been wondering about the Alpine Journal and was glad she had sent it but it hadn’t arrived yet. They ought to get advice about a piano and had better get a second hand one to start with, though even that would be expensive.

Glad he had been mostly right about the end of the war. Had seen some quotes from the Times which were idiotic. The Manchester Guardian had been quite good. A recent article upbraided people for not wanting peace now it was in sight and it had been very angry with the armistice terms to Turkey for not insisting on occupying Armenia for the sake of the Armenians. It drew attention to the Austrian situation fairly early. He hadn’t really thought about the issue of punishing individual Germans. It wasn’t worth fighting a day longer for that. What crime compares with the original one of starting the war for which the whole country was responsible and would be punished. Where would you draw the line when punishing individuals who would argue they were following orders?

9th - A lovely frosty, sunny morning. Would possibly go searching for Geoffrey Keynes who was about 20 miles from there. The car would have to get beer for the men.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on Armistice Day

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

This will only be a few lines. I have stayed the night with Geoffrey Keynes. We slept in a bell tent together & just before we went to sleep the noise of shouting confused & dispersed announced the fact that the armistice had been signed. Whether its a true fact I haven’t yet discovered - but any other would be so impossible that I’m prepared to believe it. I was thinking last night that I must be home for Xmas because I haven’t got Milton’s Hymn with me out here.

I can’t tell you how good it was walking & talking with Geoffrey yesterday afternoon. He is beyond Cambrai which is over 20 miles from Arras & the road was perfectly awful broken up pavé. I can’t think why the motorbike didn’t just break into fragments.

I shall write you a good letter this evening I hope. This must go now to catch the post.

Your loving George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had hardly got back from Geoffrey’s C.C.S. when Trafford arrived and carried him off to stay with him at an aerodrome south of Cambrai. Was delighted to see Trafford who was in tremendous form - happy, gay and full of life. He gave the impression of success. He affected magnificence running about in a splendid Crossley car giving orders like Alexander the Great or Lord Northcliffe or Rockefeller. He enjoyed every detail of a successful action and had a wonderful forward looking conviction and was untroubled by doubts or reflective inconveniences. Didn’t have the air of one who had been through a time of anxiety or felt the burden of responsibility. His success was evident from the engagements and liaisons he had with the big wigs in the Flying Corps and Tank Corps and even the G.O.C. RAF himself.

He was to have stayed overnight but Trafford had been summoned to confer with a General at the Tank Corps.

Last night they celebrated peace in Cambrai at the Officers’ Club. It was a good evening, the kind one would expect from the public school type of British Officer - much hilarity and no drunkenness. The prevalent feeling was the elation that comes after a hard game or race of supreme importance won after a struggle in which everyone had expended himself to the last ounce. He was inundated by waves of untroubled joy which he hadn’t known since war began. He doubted if he had realised before what a load they were carrying about constantly.

Wondered if Fletcher had applied for his release and how soon he would see her again. They would have a wonderful life together and what a wonderful thing they must make of such a gift. He wanted to loose all harshness of jagged nerves and above all be gentle.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received three lovely letters from her including one in which she talks about their views on religion. One of letters must have gone astray as he found out she had recovered before he knew that she was ill.

He hadn’t been surprised by the armistice once he had heard the result of the Versailles conference. Hoped there wouldn’t be anarchy in Germany. There was no indication of it merely a bloodless revolution they could heartily welcome. Any attempt at a coup by the wealthy would be disastrous but he didn’t think it was much to be feared. The end of the war, so far, had been perfect.

The Daily Mail was still talking about peace traps and political camouflage. Was this amazing blindness or wilful folly? Had she seen Carson’s speech about Lord Northcliffe? It pleased him very much.

Was surprised and delighted to hear her father was progressing so well and he might be walking again soon.
Was interested to hear about Clutton Brock’s book. If he might send him a copy then she should wait before buying one.
He had received The Alpine Journal, three pamphlets from the Civic Arts Association and a New Europe. The A.C. looked dull, except his article.

She asked if it was too early to start teaching Clare about God. He thought it was but didn’t know when they should start.

When he had met Geoffrey they had talked and talked. Geoffrey had been in close contact with Cosmo Gordon for the past 2 years. They had met when Gordon had been in the operating theatre near to Geoffrey’s location and had asked to se him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Celebrations of peace had continued and took the form of a run out and a large meal. He had been to Lille with the Major, Pemberton, and three men from a battery in Arras. Lille was the third largest town in France, although France didn’t have many. They had lunch in a large hotel used an officers’ club which was entirely an English institution. They had then walked around the town and met others so the party grew to 10. He was depressed in the 1 1/2 hours in the ante room as it was impossible for him to join in the conversation and it was a crowd of rowdy officers of unprepossessing appearance. He skilfully manoeuvred himself to be placed at dinner between two men who seemed capable of ideas beyond incidents in military careers and performances of drunken heroes. Had a long and interesting talk about America. That and half a bottle of bubbly helped him survive the evening. He always started these evenings thinking he would enjoy himself with agreeable companions until he realised that, whatever they were individually, collectively they were all barbarians with whom he had nothing in common.

Trafford had turned up the day before yesterday and had lunch with them. His visit to Trafford was deferred until he had moved quarters. He was trying to arrange for Trafford to take him to Beauvais as he wanted to see the cathedral.

Was sorry she hadn’t found sympathy in the family for her Montessori adventures. That was so like families but she had any amount from him so she shouldn’t be discouraged.

He hoped Trafford would be sending over two planes to photograph the guns so as to furnish them with souvenirs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Wonders what Fletcher had done about applying for his return. He might be home within a few weeks or if the application failed then it might take 3 months.

They had no orders to move yet and so they might stay there until peace preliminaries had been signed. There was uncertainty as to where they would spend the winter. The weather was getting colder especially at night.

That morning a plane had flown low overhead and dropped somthing red. It was a parcel for him from Trafford wrapped in red bunting. Trafford was going to come the day after tomorrow to take him off in his car to stay with him.

Wasn’t sure where the oak tree was that she mentioned but they would be glad of the wood if they could cut it up and cart it off. How was she doing for coal? Doesn’t see why the coal ration shouldn’t now be increased. Was sorry to hear that Violet may leave them as they wouldn’t get anyone as good. Agreed that the immediate future would be a good time to get servants. Thought it unwise to get Maggie Dunsby unless she was stronger than she used to be.

17 November - she might ask Violet to stay and nurse Beridge until she is 2 years old. Hoped to be back in time to have some time before term started.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had wasted no time in applying for his early demolilisation [his occupation was schoolmaster]. He was staying with Trafford. He had a good place in a farm house about 6 or 7 miles from Doullens on the Arras road. It was a very comfortable camp and the countryside was quite unspoilt and rather attractive. He was interested in the army schemes for occupying itself pending demobilisation. Trafford’s Squadron were training as they would in England as if the war was continuing which was ridiculous but they had to be employed. He believed the Army had some educational scheme but he wondered who would organise and teach it.

Trafford had a good deal of the regular soldier about him. Wishes he showed a little more sympathy. Wonders what he will do in civilian life and what manner he would adopt.

The cold snap had ended and was agreeably warm. The window’s of the Officer’s Mess in the truck had been put in lettin gin light and air. He would get back the velvet curtains and maybe some others as they would go well in his study.

He hadn’t received a parcel since the one from Fortnum and Masons and they were short of flour again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

His stay had come to a sudden end as Trafford had been called away to take command in the absence of the Colonel.

Had a good solitary walk and played football on the previous day and his ankle held up. In the evening they went to Amiens to dine. Had an amusing evening and got the Mayor of Amiens to sing two songs. The waitresses as well as themselves sang and they toasted until after 10pm and he thoroughly enjoyed himself.

The unstrafed country was pleasant and he wished the battery would move back to the place they first stayed in after landing in Calais. The constraint of unmitigated shellholes and barbed wire was deadening to ones faculties.