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Outline of 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition

This was the first mountaineering expedition with the express aim of making the first ascent of Mount Everest. It was also the first expedition that attempted to climb Everest using bottled oxygen. In the previous year the reconnaissance expedition had explored the eastern and northern sides of the mountain and had established a possible route to the summit.

The party consisted of Charles G. Bruce (expedition leader), Edward Strutt (deputy leader and mountaineer), George Mallory (mountaineer), George Finch (mountaineer), Edward Norton (mountaineer), Henry Morshead (mountaineer), Dr Howard Somervell (mountaineer), Dr Arthur Wakefield (mountaineer), John Noel (photographer and film maker), Dr Tom Longstaff (expedition medical officer), Geoffrey Bruce (translator and organisation and cousin of Charles G. Bruce), John Morris (translator and organisation) and Colin Crawford (translator and organisation).

After two unsuccessful summit attempts, the expedition ended on the third attempt when an avalanche killed seven climbing sherpas. Not only had the expedition failed to reach the summit, but it also marked the first reported climbing deaths on Mount Everest. The expedition did however establish a new world record climbing height of (27,320 ft).

March - Sea journey from England to India on board the Caledonia and start of trek to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/1 - nearing Port Said
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/2 - nearing Aden
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/3 - nearing Bombay [Mumbai]
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/4 - Chevremont, Darjeeling (21 March)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/5 – Kalimpong (27-28 March)

April - Trek to Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/6 – Gnatong (1 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/7 - Phari (6-7 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/8 - Kampa Dzong (12 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/9 - Tinki Dzong (18 April)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/10 - Shekar Dzong (26 April)

May - Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/11 - Rongbuk Base Camp (2 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/12 - Rongbuk Base Camp (10 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/13 - Camp III (15 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/14 - Camp III (17-18 May); 1st Attempt (20 May)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/15 - Base Camp; 2nd summit attempt (26 May)

June - Everest
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/16 - Preparation for 3rd summit attempt (1 June)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/17 - Base Camp [Post-Avalanche, (6-7 June)]
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/18 - Camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar] (27-28 June)

July - Return Journey
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/19 – Kharta (1 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/20 - Kharta (1 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/21 - Kampa Dzong (10 July)
MCPP/GM/3/1/1922/22 - Chevremont, Darjeeling (26 July)

Outline of 1923 (Jan-Mar; Oct)

January - George Mallory travelled to the United States and Canada to begin a lecture tour.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/1
Onboard the SS Olympic travelling to New York to give a series of lectures.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/2
Staying at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York. He describes his press agent Keedick, provides his impressions of New York City, and mentions his writing work.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/3
In Washington, D.C. Discusses his lectures and writings and describes his experiences with American audiences.

February - Continues the lecture tour. Describes having dinner American Prohibition. Learns to ski.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/4
In New York City. Describes his dinner experience during American Prohibition, reports on his speaking engagements and mentions being interviewed. He attended an American Alpine Club dinner and other social luncheons. Shares his impressions of New York.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/5
In Montreal, Quebec, Canada. Reports on recent lecture in New York and describes social visits to friends in New York and Canada.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/6
Hotel Flanders, New York City. Had spent the weekend learning to ski in Canada and reports ‘bad news’ from MCpress agent Keedick regarding lecture tour.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/7
Harvard Club, New York City. Attends a dinner party with the American Alpine Club and spends weekends in Long Island.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/8
Sheffield, Massachusetts and Boston, MA – Describes his impressions of New York and Boston where he attended an opera.

March - Continues the lecture tour, visits Niagara Falls, shares his disappointment of lecture tour results, and is famously quoted in New York Times article, ‘Because it’s there’ (March 18, 1924).

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/9
Toledo Club, Toledo, Ohio. Says Boston was rather charming and that there was another big audience in Philadelphia.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/10
Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York [with postmarked envelope]. Had given lectures in Boston, New York, and Philadelphia. Describes a trip to Niagara Falls, and discusses finances.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/11
Chicago, Illinois. Was onboard a train. Due to give a lecture in Iowa City which was the furthest west but was disappointed not to be lecturing in Chicago.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/12
Somerset Club, Boston, MA. Shares plans for returning home and provides thoughts on his ‘American visit’.

October - Moving house and planning to return to Mount Everest

MCPP/GM/3/1/1923/13
Is writing after lecture tour to Ruth in Cambridge, before their move into Herschel House in Cambridge, where Ruth would later receive news of George's death. Most of this letter is about plans for moving into Herschel House, including moving logistics and design choices. However, the end of the letter discusses his pending decision to re-join the Mount Everest Committee and commit to returning to Mount Everest in 1924.

Outline of 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition

The party consisted of Charles Bruce (expedition leader), Edward Norton (2nd in command and mountaineer), George Mallory (mountaineer and lead of the climbing team), Bentley Beetham (mountaineer), Geoffrey Bruce (mountaineer), John de Vars Hazard (mountaineer), Dr Richard Hingston (expedition doctor), Andrew Irvine (mountaineer), John Noel (photographer and movie camera operator), Noel Odell (mountaineer and geologist), Edward Shebbeare (transportation officer and interpreter), Dr Howard Somervell (mountaineer and medical doctor)

March – Sea journey from England to India on board the R.M.S. California and start of the trek to Everest

April - Journey through Tibet to Everest. Charles Bruce was taken ill with maleria en route and Edward Norton took over command of the Expedition. Mallory was named second in command and lead of the climbing team. They reached Base Camp by the end of the month.

May - Was spent establishing camps and making plans.

1 June - Bruce and Mallory made the first attempt on the summit.
2 June - Norton and Somervell made the second attempt on the summit.
5 June - Mallory and Irvine were in Camp IV. On 6 June they departed for Camp V. On 7 June they moved on to Camp VI.

They were last seen alive by Noel Odell on 8 June.

This series contains the only surviving letter from the Everest period in the Archive that Ruth Mallory wrote to her husband George and the three letters that were found on his body when it was discovered in 1999. They were from his brother Trafford, his sister Mary Brooke and Stella [thought to be Stella Cobden-Sanderson].

Colour photograph showing the boat during the race.

Names on the board read:
S. Orr (bow), R. P. Horn, L. B. D. Matthews, V. A. Jones (stroke), R. M. Littler (cox).
Coaches: K. Pearce, J. B. Smith, C. E. Perry.

Two colour photographs showing the boat during the race. One photograph has names.

Names on the board read:
J. I. A. Hopton (bow), E. J. Blythe, S. K. hart, A. C. F. Slinger, A. S. Brundin, A. K. Hagstrom, J. L. Grimston, C. J. Cowton (stroke), K. A. White (cox and captain).
Coaches: K. Pearce, S. Williams, A. W. Balfour, J. Gleave.
Results: Bumped: Addenbrookes I, Corpus Christi I, Peterhouse I.

Colour photograph of the crew taken outside the Pepys Building:

Doug Calder, John Colley, Geoff Hoare, Andy Greener, Phil Morris, Mark Mackintosh, Alex Shiel, Linton Guise, Henry Tuck, Ali McCracken, David Osbourne.

Colour photograph showing the crew on the river during the race. Names on the back:

T. Sampson / M. D. Binns (bow), M. H. Evans (captain), A. A. Morod, N. A. Leamon, PP. Hoeltzenhein, N. T. Saunders, S. J. Dawson-Bowling, A. T. H. West (stroke), A. Probert / M. Haycock.
Coaches: A. Silk, A. Nelder.

Bumped: Caius, Pembroke, Trinity 1st & 3rd

Colour photograph showing the boat during the race.

Names on the board read:
J. Kersey (bow), L. Wakefield, D. P. Spragg, J. W. F. Kietruck, R. Walters, N. Leamon, A. C. Quilter, P. O'Doherty (stroke), K. Grahame (cox).
Coaches: S. C. R. Donne, A. Bennet, L. Christie, I. E. Beaton.
Reached the semi-finals.

Colour photograph showing the boat during the race.

Names on the board read:
Iain Guest (bow), Paul Martin, John Iodesse, Justin Phillips, Hans Ulrich Hoefie, Richard Mee, John Dyce, Mark Jones (stroke), David Jones (cox).
Coaches: John Greeve, Richard Tufnell, Paul Knights.
Bumped: LMBCII, Queens, Churchill.

Colour photograph showing the boat during the race.

Names on the board read:
J. D. Walmsley (bow), R. J. Hodges, D. Jeffrey, A. Boyd, A. Hardy, J. Brocklebank, G. Thorning, P. Allen (stroke), J. D. Garner (cox).
Coach: K. Pierce

Overall winners of both the Mixed Division and the Men's 1st & 2nd VIII's Division

Black and white photograph of the crew on the river. No names are given.

Black and white photograph of the crew on the river. No names are given.

Black and white photograph of the crew on the river. No names are given.

Black and white photograph of the crew on the river. No names are given.

Colour photograph showing the boat during the race.

Names on the board read:
J. Carr (bow), C. Prittchard, A. La Gorce, C. Scott, D. Corwell, Y. Remmen, L. Stevenson, C. Zehnder (stroke), A. Koller (cox).
Winners of Novice Fairbairns and winners of Clare Novices.

Ground and first floor plans, rear elevation, section, and site plan showing alterations to 22 Magdalene Street.

Drawing No. M/22/1

Ground, first, and second floor plans and rear elevation showing alterations to 22 Magdalene Street.

Drawing No. M/22/2
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

First floor plan showing sets of student rooms above 23-29 Magdalene Street.

Drawing No. 3
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Ground floor plan showing access to sets of student rooms above 23-29 Magdalene Street.

Drawing No. 2
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Second floor plan showing sets of student rooms above 23-29 Magdalene Street.

Drawing No. 4
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Site plan showing proposals to create sets of student rooms above:

• 22 Magdalene Street - 2 sets
• 23 Magdalene Street - 1 set
• 25 Magdalene Street - 3 sets
• 26, 27 & 28 Magdalene Street - 6 sets
• 29 Magdalene Street - 2 sets

Drawing No. 1
Scale: 1/16" to 1'

Drawings of alterations to 23 and 24 Magdalene Street - ground and first floor plans; rear elevation; section; and site plan.

Drawing No. 1
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Drawings of alterations to 23 and 24 Magdalene Street - ground and first floor plans; rear elevation; and a section.

Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Drawings of alterations to 23 and 24 Magdalene Street - ground and first floor plans; rear elevation; sections; and a site plan.

Drawing No. 1
Scale: 1/8" to 1'

Details of the wrought iron balustrade. With notes and measurements.

Scale: 1/4" and 1/2" to 1'

A drawing showing the detail of a fireplace at 23 Magdalene Street - front and side elevations; and a plan. With notes and measurements.

Drawing No. M/23/2
Scale: 1" to 1'

Sketch survey of the first and second floors of 23-28 Magdalene Street

Scale: 1" to 8'

25 and 26 Bridge Street were formerly known as 'The Barley Mow'. They were bought by Magdalene College in 1983.