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Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead [first page missing, reference to a hand drawn map in the surviving letter which may have been on the first page]

Brief Summary
Outlines plans for reconnaissance with Bullock including setting up an advanced camp. Describes Everest. Had taken photos of Everest with Bullock. Howard-Bury and Herron had arrived at Base Camp. Had been cutting steps. Climbed to what they believed was the 2nd highest peak ever climbed (23,500ft). The tent and bedding were uncomfortable and it was cold. Describes what he wears to keep warm.

Detailed Summary
They planned to explore westwards to the W.N.W. cwm and refers to a hand drawn map [missing]. They planned to make advanced camp with Mummery tents where only two peaks had been mapped or observed before. They had to explore eastward for a view of the great east arete of Everest. He describes the general shape of Everest assessing the possibilities of climbing it - in the south was a fierce rock arete, the snow col, the west cwm, the summit ridge, the east face had steep hanging glaciers and from a distant view looked impossible. Describes the East and North aretes and concludes that the approach to the col from the west looked bad and they would have to explore the other side. The N.W. arete looked very formidable with much steep rock about 23,000 ft. Unless the face on the other side provided easy ways to turn the difficulties they didn't have much hope here. The west face had very steep rocks towards the summit.

Everest was immeasurably bigger and higher than any mountain he had seen in the Alps. From a mountaineer’s point of view no more appalling sight could be imagined. He reports on the reconnaissance so far and of establishing the camp. He followed a clean stream and wanted to go further in their search for water and then saw a little lake’. They crossed a glacier the next day [again referencing a map, perhaps on the missing first page]. He had an interesting expedition with Bullock and the porters. It was remarkable that the descent was always very tiring.

The next day he tried to get high up on a ridge and take photos with Bullock, reaching their maximum heights. He had been cutting steps at 21,000 ft. The following day's plans were interrupted when they received news that Howard-Bury and Heron had arrived at Base Camp. They had enjoyed a pleasant slack day and made plans to select a main camp location. He and Bullock took photographs of Everest and some of its neighbours. He describes the challenges of climbing, and cutting steps in the ice. They reached the top registering 23,500 ft. They thought this was he second highest peak which had been climbed. He refers to the climbing records of [Tom] Longstaff and the Duke of Abruzzi. When they were better acclimatised and could start from a higher camp they would be able to go a great deal higher.

[The letter continues later] - All the driving power came from him. The tent was cramped, the bedding was uncomfortable and the evenings were cold. Describes his clothing in detail. He kept warm enough. He was looking forward to the trek back to Darjeeling and drawing nearer to her. He was not depressed as it was an exhilarating life on the whole and he was wonderfully fit. There would be something to be told even if they didn't climb Everest, which he didn't think they would.

Brief Summary
Reconnaissance to find a route to the North Col and therefore a route to the summit of Everest.

Detailed Summary
On the first page Mallory gives a very brief summary of events on each day.

2 August – Elaborate preparations to leave Kharta. Took same mountaineering stores as they had from Tingri but left behind the primus stoves and a bundle of sleeping sacks. Thought they were in easy reach of the base of Kharta and could send for them later. Main problem was rations. Porters had decided they didn’t have enough to eat. Howard-Bury had accused Gyaltzen of making money out of them. Needed to devise a way of providing rations so Gyaltzen was not involved buying them. It was decided he would buy food on credit during the march and the Colonel would pay later.

It was a hazardous adventure but the prospects seemed rosy. The great glacier stream joining the Arun just below them was presumed to come from Everest and the left branch from the North Col. They expected to be on the North Col within a few days. However, the start from Kharta was dilatory. The Sidar was up late and hadn’t organised anything. The loads had been counted wrong, they had no animals and had to leave three loads behind. In Shikar Kharta [Kharta Shekar] they were received by the Dzongpen [governor] and had tea and biscuits. There was an argument with the porters about rations and they had to be urged to continue. They stopped at a house to drink and admire the rugs that were being woven. Then they came to a monastery where one porter refused to continue on. The porter put up the tents at the junction of the valley after only ½ days march.

3 August – As they had stopped after so short a march the day before they had a long march on the second day. They had a rise of 4,000 ft to the pass. They pitched tents on a yak grazing ground above the valley. Flowers very good on both sides the pass and he found the blue primula. No sheep or goats.

4 August – Clouds had not lifted and they had a descent of 800 ft to river bed. There was rich vegetation which he describes. Heavy rain cam e down and they decided to set up camp although it was early. Thought they were going in the wrong direction and wanted clouds to clear to make sure. Discussion with Headman and was assured a route did exist up the valley

5 August – Clouds began to clear so they could see Everest. Reconnaissance out from the camp and up a final low peak showed no easy way existed which could take them round to the end of East ridge.

6 August - Fine morning and pleasant walk up the right bank of the glacier. Fine show of gentians. A steep rise of about 800 ft lead to a very small lake where we camped. Snow fell almost continuously in afternoon and evening. Clouds broke to give a wonderful view at sunset.

7 August – Later start than planned. Cook was ill and everything was covered with snow but they got off at 4.10am. Their objective was the conspicuous sharp show peak, third from the N.E. Arete of Everest. Describes the trek to the col which they reached at 8.45am. Had a hearty meal and took two photos. Not possible to see the head of the glacier north of them. They climbed up and it was clear that the glacier head was a snow col. He insisted that the peak ahead must be climbed in order to try and see the north col. The next section was very steep. The east face in front of them had to be avoided. The south face was separated from them by a broad gully. Snow was very deep and he was constantly thinking of the danger of avalanches. They managed to get onto the steep south slope. The porters (Nimya, [Nyima] Alugga, Pema, and Dasno) learnt much about using the rope. They reached the far edge at 12:15 pm and looked across directly to the east ridge of Everest although still couldn’t see the North col. The party lay down to sleep while he took photos and ate some food before trekking the final slopes. He then went on with Nimya [Nyima] and Dasno. They abandoned their snowshoes at the foot of a very steep snow face. Dasno then abandoned them. As he thought the snow was in too bad a condition. It was a place to fear an avalanche. It was exhausting and he disn’t get a clear view as a reward. Bullock led down, very slow in the steep snow. He had a baddish headache by this time and felt unwell. When they got back at about 4.30pm he felt exhausted and feverish and in spite of warm clothes couldn’t prevent himself shivering.

8 August – Porters were delayed in arriving so they prepared to move without them. He felt weak walking. Met up with porters and heard Howard-Bury had arrived at Base Camp. Reached Base Camp at 11.15am. Howard-Bury was out photographing. He went to bed. Discussed rations again and decided to give the porters a share of the balance and they were happy.

9 August - Felt slack with swollen glands in the neck and a sore throat but was fitter to walk. Collected flowers and seeds on the way down. Howard-Bury decided to go back to Kharta by another pass. Had to stand and wait ½ hour for the clouds to thin so he could take 2 photographs of the summit. He saw a beautifu lblue gentian which he had never seen before in the Alps. He realised he wasn’t carrying his woollen waistcoat. Retraced his steps but couldn’t find it. Offered a reward to any porter who could find it. They looked but couldn’t see it.

10 August – Saw a tiny yellow saxifrage which Wollaston hadn’t got. Continued down hill and was pleased he could leave Bullock behind going downhill as well as up. The meadows in the valley were delicious and very warm.

11 August - Bathed in the stream. Had been promised yakmen were coming but they didn’t arrive. Managed to get hold of two yaks and left packs for porters to bring. He felt unwell and the porters were slack. Gorang lied by saying there was no water higher up. Had to persuade the porters to continue. Found water and a good sheltered spot for the camp.

12 August: A days rest and fuel collecting. He kept to his bed.

13 August - feeling feeble with a sore throat and swollen glands. Morshead arrived with a note from Wollaston and Bury which cheered him a good deal. Bullock sent a note in the evening with depressing news that the valley was ‘no good’. This mean fresh efforts of reconnaissance. Was a comfort to have Morshead.

14 August – they searched for a possible approach and had been mistaken about the topography of the expected valley. Hoped two more days would settle the question.

15 August – He and Morshead followed a shelf but found no exit to their glacier and had to stop, camping at a place with just enough room where the ground was not too sloping to pitch the three tents.

16 August - Best chance of a clear view was to go up. Doesn’t know why he went one except he was so miserable he wanted to reduce the rest of the party to a like state of mind. Bullock lead down the glacier badly doing little to avoid the crevasses which were covered by snow. They discussed plans at some length. A sketch map had arrived from Wheeler the day before showing a glacier [East Rongbuk Glacier] of enormous dimensions running north from Everest and draining into the Rongbuk valley but it’s inaccuracies had made them discount Wheler’s conclusion too much. He showed no East ridge to the North Peak. He thought wheeler had mistaken that ridge for the N.E. Arete of Everest (which he showed S.E.). He had little hope it would be of service to them. It could only be so if it drained on to the Rongbuk valley as Bullock thought probable. Either Wheeler must be right or the North Col was lower than they thought and the cwm high enough to push its glacier near it. They agreed he would descend to the north to see if there was a glacier in that direction.

17 August Gives three causes of the failure of rations supply.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Asks if she wants a holiday with him on his way home. Makes suggestions as to where they could meet, when, and how they would pay for it. Outlines an idea to return with Nyima (one of the porters) who would live with them as a servant. He had fallen ill with sore glands and throat and Bullock had to continue the reconnaisance without him but was unsuccesful. Morshead joined him in camp and as he felt better they joined Bullock.

Detailed Summary
Says he has two projects to discuss. First is whether she would like a holiday with him on his way home. Suggests meeting in Rome or Marseilles, and perhaps touring Provence and walking with rucksacks to Bordeaux. Or they could go to Tours, Chartres or Paris. Then suggests the two could meet in Gibraltar and tour Spain together and take a ship back from Lisbon. Then mentions the Riviera and staying with the Busey’s or would she enjoy Italy more. Asks her to make the plans and says his dates are quite uncertain.

He hopes to get to Darjeeling by 1 October but says there may be delays. He wants to spend two-three weeks in India. She should come supplied with information as he would know nothing about the trains in Europe. If they go to Spain or Italy she must be responsible for the language. Makes suggestions as to who she should contact to make arrangements. Wants to spend some of their £500 War Savings Certificate on giving her a really lovely holiday. Discusses the logistics of train tickets and advises her to consider the relative prices in different countries. She must telegraph him via Bullock in Darjeeling to let him know in what town he should meet her. Gives more detailed instructions and discusses the clothing he may need. He will wire her the date of his departure from India and the name of the ship so she can find out the date of his arrival.

The second project is his idea to bring back one of the expedition porters as a servant. He describes the hypothetical scenario at length detailing the duties in the house he would undertake and asking how he would fit in with the other servants. He suggests Nimya [Nyima] a boy of about 18 who had a perfect temperament and was one of the most helpful people he had ever seen. Details potential wages, dietary requirements, transportation costs. He would have to come for at least two years and then probably return to India. Wonders if he would be happy and whether the other servants would like him. Describes his appearance.

[Letter continues later] - Says he has become ill at a critical moment after a two day trek with sore glands and throat and it wasn’t worth the risk of going up the valley as he must save himself for the big attack. Bullock had gone on alone and sent a chit reporting that the valley didn’t lead to the north col, but ended in a col between two peaks 23,800 and 23,400 N.N.E. of Everest. He was cheered by the arrival of Morshead.

14 August - Feeling better so he went with Morshead up the same valley as Bullock which was very interesting. He planned to camp and reconnoitre. He and Morshead were out for 8 hrs and he had gone to bed as soon as they came back and was no worse. He was tremendously excited as the day after tomorrow they may have their line of attack fixed and if they did it would be a very good one because they would be able to get a very long way without camping on ice.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Pleased with his photographs and hopes to make some money giving lectures on his return home. He had been unwell and stayed in camp when Bullock had gone on alone but was unable to find a way through the valley. Morshead had arrived and the next day he el better so they joined up with Bullock. Describes their clims, camps and troubles with rations. They were successful in finding the route to the North Col and therefore the route to the summit.

Detailed Summary
He was pleased with his photography efforts and printing which would make excellent slides for lectures. Asks her to keep the prints very carefully. He had written to Hinks suggesting he should give some lectures during the winter. He would let the Committee consider the financial arrangements. Asks her if she would like an American tour. They had received no English mail since 21 July [one month prior] and wonders if floods in Tibet had caused the delay. Says he was no longer in poor health and suspects he had tonsilitis.

Bullock had gone off alone reconnoitring and Morshead had arrived the same morning. He had received a chit from Bullock explaining that the valley would not lead to Everest. He spent the day in bed feeling weak, but the next morning was feeling much stronger. Describes his walk up the first valley to the left with Morshead. He didn’t expect to find a valley leading directly to the north col at the foot of the ridge they wanted to climb. He judged they might find a good way to Everest in that direction.

15 August - Continued trekking with Bullock, met the porters, brought down the tents, and took them a long way up the valley which he and Morshead had reconnoitred. There were complications in the march which caused delays and they ending up short of where he wanted to be with no view of their way. They had an uncomfortable camp perched on a stony hillside with snow falling persistently all evening.

16 August - They followed the ridge above them to the top of a small peak (20,500 ft) which was a 1,700 ft rise in an hour an a quarter. They had a good view point and had a clear hour for photography. They had vague hopes of reaching their objective which was a distant snow col in direct line with the north peak, but then had to descend nearly 1,000 ft and it was bad going over a big glacier. There was thick mist all round them and he felt very, tired with a nasty headache. As it was clearly hopeless they turned back. They reached camp late and it was snowing persistently but they knew where they wanted to go and how to get there.

17 August - A very hesitating move with much discussion of what they might and might not do. The rationing arrangement had broken down badly and they were short of food. He blamed it on the incompetence of the sirdar [sardar] at their base camp. They decided to go on next day with only one porter and sent the rest down to the camp below. They hoped to reach their snow col while the snow was still hard but it was a dim hope because they knew fresh snow had fallen and it was always difficult to estimate how much. They needed their snowshoes despite them being heavy on a long march and having to lift a considerable amount of snow on the snowshoe and it being worse for the leader than anyone following.

They reached the col where there were snow covered rocks above the icefall. It was not an agreeable way of passing time. For most of the time they were enveloped in a thin mist which obscured the view and made, one world of snow and sky.

Morshead, who knew the hottest heat of the plains in India, had said that he had never felt any heat so intolerable as this. They continued plodding on and needed a tremendous and continually conscious effort of the lungs. Up the steep final slopes he found it necessary to stop and breath as hard as he could for a short space in order to gain sufficient energy to push up a few more steps. Bullock and the porter had struggled on behind him and Morshead fell out near the top but re-joined them on the col. The clouds hid the peaks when they got there but the expedition had been a success. As they suspected there was a glacier running north from a cwm under the north east face of Everest. He wished it had been possible to follow it down and find out the secret of its exit. He describes the head of the glacier and that across it lay their way, across easy snow up the other side of the cwm where the approach to the north col, the long wished for goal, could not be difficult nor even long.

As they came down his thoughts were full of this prospect and this success. He didn't know when he had allowed himself so much enjoyment from a personal achievement. This success brought their reconnaissance to an end as they had found the way and they were now planning the attack.

These thoughts were needed during the hours that followed to stimulate the mind as it was the most dismal of processions. Morshead had been cooked going up to the col and later was in a state of collapse. The porters had all left their high camp, leaving three tents standing but they were cold and without provisions so they continued to the base. When daylight failed they missed their way and were compelled to make an arduous ascent up a steep rough hillside. A faint misty moonlight made it possible to step from boulder to boulder but Morshead was compelled to rest at frequent intervals. They continued until 2 am. He came in as fit and strong as ever after a long day in the hills and ate a hearty meal in my dry warm sleeping slack before lying down for untroubled sleep.

He organisation the camps and fuel supply before they went down to the expedition base at Kharta and waited on the weather while organising their push to the summit. He had been told that the monsoon should break at the end of the month and a fine spell should set in with September. [Bad weather ultimately delayed any progress for almost a month].

He was happy and full of the object in front of him although there were many times when his mind was full of her and home.

The expedition was short of candles and a little oil lamp constructed out of a vaseline pot was his light.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Benares, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

He was delighted she was coming to meet him. He had just missed the English Mail at Darjeeling, and hoped to get the mail at Agra. Had been sightseeing and was suffering with a chill similar to the one he had in August but with rheumatic legs rather than a swollen gland and sore throat. His legs were quite painful most of yesterday and today he could barely walk. He was looking at silks in Benares and had hardly bought anything but he had one or two patterns for her to see.

He supposes the last letter she had received from him had been written from Kharta or Everest. He was travelling towards her pretty busily, and there was a lot to tell. He had hoped to have an account of their last days on Everest but it had worked out so badly that he didn't want to send it but would show her when they meet at Marseilles.

Had a very gay time for the few days he was in Darjeeling. Explains Poojah when everyone takes a holiday. Had been to a fancy dress ball and a garden party. Describes the hotel veranda he was sitting on and writing from calling it an enormous house which stands among its shade giving trees like a rajah’s palace in a park. The hotel lacked fans and electric light but was clean enough. He was lead to expect the journey would be intolerable but he had only one change after leaving the mountain railway and a carriage to himself for almost 32 hrs.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship. Opinion on use of oxygen. Opinion of colleagues. Watched porpoises.

Detailed Summary
They were all getting along happily enough. There was a good deal of scientific discussion around the subject of breathing oxygen. Wakefield was somewhat distrustful of the whole affair and sometimes irritated by Finch who was dogmatic in his statements. In this company he was amused by Finch. Was much intrigued by the shape of his head which seemed to go out at the sides where it ought to go up. He was a fanatical character and didn't laugh easily. He greatly enjoyed his oxygen class.

The oxygen drill was being abandoned and so they would hear less on the subject, which was extremely interesting and Finch had been very competent about it. Refers to a full page hand drawing by Somervell, entitled ‘Homeward Bound' [included on the next page of the letter] which showed an unfortunate man whose apparatus had broken and so he was forced to go down taking the oxygen straight from the bottle.

At his first meeting with Strutt, which took place at the Alpine Club, he thought him a dry, stiff solider but he was rather a chatterbox and quite entertaining though never profound. He describes Strutt’s diplomatic role with a mission to Denikin’s army [Russian Lt. Gen Anton Denikin] and an Austrian prince and was High Commissioner in Danzig or some big town in the Baltic. Over one affair Curzon tried to get him court marshalled as a traitor to his country so he concluded he must be a good man.

He had enjoyed good talk, especially with Noel who he particularly liked. The Everest film should be worth £15,000 for foreign rights alone, which gave him some hope that there would be generous terms to the lectures.

Further describes life on the ship, the warm weather and the sunset. The bugle sounded warning them to dress for dinner. He had to go and bathe as he had been playing deck cricket. He slept with a fan in his cabin and thought how romantic a voyage could be if one was lazy enough. If she were there he would take quite a lot of interest in the phosphorescence of the water, the dolphins, whales, sharks, the flying fishes, and all the rest.

[Continues next morning] - previous night he had watched porpoises in the sea which kept pace with them. His porthole and door had closed overnight so the fan was just churning round the same old air and it was very stuffy.

She was very brave about his going away and she wouldn't be dull without him. He will have to wait a long time to hear news from her and wonders if they will still be in Darjeeling when the mail arrives. Many supplies were still on their way notably the oxygen cylinders.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kampa Dzong’

Brief Summary
Had planned shortcut but went further south by mistake. Very cold and tired. Warm start next day but then a bitter wind. All felt affects of marching at altitude. Next camp was 3-4 miles from Ta Tsang, warmer night. Warmer next day, bathed in a stream. Country was beautiful. Been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Hair cut very short. Describes what he was wearing.

Detailed Summary
Too much repetition of experiences. Real difference was that it was earlier in the season than the previous year. Planned to take a short cut involving four marches instead of six with 100 animals, while 20 yaks and donkeys took the longer journey but this depended on the grazing available. Morshead had gone to fix the gaming ground. About 5 miles from Phari they diverged from last year’s course and mistakenly went further south. It was bitterly cold but they following the transport to some place the mule-men knew of. Halted in the afternoon with many of the men demoralised. Just about got the tents up to provide some shelter for those who had been knocked out by cold and fatigue. Some sort of a meal was produced before they turned in. He went to look at the animals standing in untidy rows with the snow lying on their backs. The mule-men were squatting round in a circle behind some sort of shelter cheerful and contented. A little later he heard the jangling of animals bells and saw through the tent door some bullocks which had started late, following a figure in his Tibetan garment hitched up round the waist and red Tibetan boots.

They had a cheerful start. He preferred riding mules over ponies. He was the only one to have secured a mule at Phari and they had mostly been ridden by the men servants and Gurkha orderlies. He had brought a saddle and bridle and his beast was shared among four of them, though it was too cold to ride unless he was nearly exhausted. On the second march, they halted at a pass for a mild tiffin. The sun was warm and they were out of the wind. Coming onto another desolate plane the wind caught them. It was a more trying march than any of last year’s although they did very well under the circumstances. Norton organised a hot meal and he had shared an 80 lb tent with Strutt and Morshead. The march had been too long for this stage in proceedings. May not feel the altitude when they were doing nothing but they had all felt it on the march of 22 miles between 16,000 and 17,000 ft. The effect on him was stupidity and his head was invaded by a slight headache and a dull torpor.

The camp was in an attractive spot 3 or 4 miles from Ta Tsang [town] where they had camped the previous year. They had to rest so had a whole day of idleness. The night was warmer. The temperature had been down to zero the night before.

The next 20 miles did not seem too long and Kampa Dzong seemed to have a milder climate but the west wind had been strong and quite cold. The yaks were expected to arrive and then they would be off again following the old stages.

His letter was not a very cheerful account. They had a warm day and he enjoyed bathing before breakfast in the little stream. The country was often beautiful, more beautiful than last year. Believed there was more moisture in the atmosphere and more colour in the landscape. The view from the dzong [fort] above the camp of the two arms of the plain stretched away to the snow mountains [the Gyanka Range - Everest beyond was not visible]. Made him feel that Tibet after all was somehow friendly.

Had been reading Balzac’s Le Cure de Tours. Morshead’s servant, who accompanied him again this year cut his hair with clippers so he had very little left.

Had been writing the letter in the mess tent for the sake of a high chair and a table for his ink pot. Describes the clothes he was wearing - silk and wool underclothes, a flannel shirt, a sleeved waistcoat, my lambskin coat, a Burberry coat overall – below plus fours and two pairs of stockings under sheepskin boots. He was just sufficiently warm except in the fingertips which touch the paper.

Postscript: He was still very fit in spite of fresh cold at Phari.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’.

He could hear General Bruce dictating his report on their progress in a loud voice while Morris took it down on a typewriter.

They had failed to establish the basecamp at the required point and were now at his old 2nd base camp just below the foot of the glacier. It was a very good place but three more camps would be necessary between there and the North Col whereas they had hoped to manage with two. However with the aid of some Tibetans and a few yaks they hoped to get what they wanted up to the East Rongbuk Stream during the next few days and to use this dump as a sleeping place for journeys up but not for journeys down. He thought that on the whole it was a satisfactory result and there would be great advantages in bringing back everyone for rest at this place rather than higher up.

He had been writing his diary notes for the last few days and would send them to her in the next mail. The differences in the frozen county now from his remembrances of it were 'most striking' and everyone was duly impressed by Everest. The weather was unsettled but he expected many perfect days before the monsoon set in. They would be warm in this camp and not too cold higher up. Everyone was well and cheerful.

He had to go and arrange stores to go up.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’

Brief Summary
Change of plans. He and Somervell to go to No. 3 Camp. Longstaff ill.

Detailed Summary
Was distressed to hear she was ill and hopes she’ll be able to take a planned trip to Wales.

The Tibetan porters had suddenly deserted and so the whole problem of fixing the camp was altered. General Bruce’s new plan was for Mallory and Somervell to go straight to No. 3 Camp (the one below the North Col) and cut steps up to the col, establish a camp and then get as high up the mountain as they can. He thought this would be a tremendous undertaking at this stage.

Was sending her pages from his diary which would explain some of their plans though not quite up to date. The reconnaissance party had found a good route to No. 3 Camp. This was located about where the 21,000 contour hits the North peak, on good moraines at the corner and only about an hour before the slopes leading up to the col. Strutt, Morshead, and Norton came back yesterday but Longstaff, who wasn’t well spent the night at No. 1 Camp and was due to come down that day on a stretcher. Feared he had strained his heart, and also had some throat trouble.

Is sorry he can’t write a better letter when hers are full of love. Wants to show how much he thinks of her and wants her with him to talk to. Is content that she is at home and he has her and the children to return to which makes a happy background to his life here.
Most of his news is in the diary. Feels Somervell to be his very good friend. Young Bruce was also coming up with them to No. 3 Camp. He had been very fit and cheerful. His tummy was slightly out of order today, has little doubt it will be better. Still hadn’t received any new shoes by the mail.

[Postscript up the side margin] - Asks her to tell his Mother that he had been prevented from dealing with the mail and consequently from writing to her. Asks her to thank Clare and Berry for their letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘A mountain camp south of Kharta Shikar [Shekar]. In the rains'.

Brief Summary
Travels towards home.

Detailed Summary
Complains of no mail and that he had received no news from her for the two last months of summer. Wants her with him and feels it is a waste not to enjoy that country together. The march down to Kharta [region] from the Doya La [high mountain pass] was even more entrancing than the previous year. First valley flower he found was blooming in the same place where he had collected seed pods last year. Saw a magnificent purple primula. Describes flowers and plants he saw including dwarf rhododendrons in full bloom, a willow shrub, primula sikhinensis [sikkimensis], a small iris, a white briar and a rose.

Stayed one day in Teng camping in a very good sheltered spot. The following day was spend chiefly in picnicking in a wonderful place surrounded by pines and overlooking the Arun gorge.

Then into the Kama Valley where the rains started again, but the camp was in a lovely spot on a little knoll overlooking the main valley and on the edge of a little mountain torrent. Describes the fine forests (mostly juniper) and beds of irises. They were waiting on the weather before continuing and he was happy walking about the hillsides or sitting round the camp fire.

They had moved on that day and gone over the Chog La [high mountain pass] which was just over 16,000 ft and just managed to be a snow pass and were camping nearly 2,000 ft below it on the north side and then departed from the Kharta Valley by another ridge and the Sanchang La [high mountain pass]. It was the ideal mountain country and they would have to wait there for 3 days on account of transport difficulties. Hoped the sun would shine for one of the days.

His plan to go through the corner of Nepal had not come off as it was impossible to arrange transport. Instead he would leave from Teng with Somervell and Crawford on 3 July and follow the route he and Bullock took last year as far as Gyanka Nampa. Then they would go south to Sar and keeping south of the Yaru river to the Nago La. Somervell and Crawford planned to stay in Lhonak and he would continue alone. Hoped to arrive in Darjeeling about 20-23 July and would wire from there which boat he would catch.

[Continues on the morning of June 28th] - was writing from bed watching the blue smoke of the cookhouse fire. Life was aimless and he couldn't really enjoy things at present in spite of the lovely flowers and scenery. They were not quite the jolly company they were and an ungraceful air had come over them even though they were well rid of Finch. But they were not bored with each other.

Felt he would take much interest in their garden when he got back.

Letter to Marjorie Turner [his sister-in-law], from Kharta

Thanks her for her jolly letter which she had written on 17 May and which he had received on 27 June. He was in lovely countryside walking with the General and Geoffrey Bruce and Norton when he received it. The last ten days had been a pleasure trip with collecting as an excuse. It had been a good time but the rain had spoilt the best plans. He describes the countryside and flowers including a white primula he had found which he hoped they could bring back and name after him.

Replies to the contents of her letter. He was looking forward to getting back to England at the end of August. He planned to go to Westbrook to eat fruit. Doesn't think he would collect much more on his way back but that day he had got a fine Tibetan fox-skin for Ruth although she would probably say she couldn't wear it. Hoped he would find waiting for him in Darjeeling some small square Tibetan mats for chairs.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Chiblung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I don’t know whether you will easily find this place on the map. We have come north from Tinkye, avoiding unpleasant customers at Chushar and Gyanka Nampa & this valley is divided from that in which Rongkon lies by a low range of hills - we are encamped just at the corner of the Chiblung Chu; Sanko Ri & the ridge where Somervell & I climbed in 1922 is our view to the west.

Today – at last – an English mail has reached us. I have had a very nice long letter from you and also a picture of the children enclosed with the photos from my American friend Schwab illustrating his expedition to Mt Clemenceau (did you notice the one of Mt Farrar & Mt Mallory?). I’m very glad to have the children’s picture, but you don’t send one of yourself naughty girl. Nor do you send me any cuttings this mail, nor the Nation which I hoped you would be sending – though really European affairs are so far away & news is so old that I’ve not much enthusiasm about them. Karma Paul who brought our mail also brought news of the General, whom he left in Phari; he must be pretty ill still as he was unable to walk and was to be carried down to Chumbi; Hingston will accompany him to Ganktok & should rejoin us at the B.C. [Base Camp] about the middle of May. Meanwhile Beetham gets on slowly & can’t be said to have got rid of dysentery yet let alone picking up after it - however I think he’s on the mend.

I heard from Mary today with news of the weather in Colombo & it looks as if the earliest breath of the monsoon is a fortnight early! But that doesn’t necessarily mean much. The bad sign is the weather here which is distinctly more unsettled than in ’22 & these last two nights have been unhealthily warm. Today we have been in a regular storm area though no rain or snow has actually fallen here.

April 24 at Shekar Dzong.

I’ve left it rather late to go on with this letter – that is partly because one way or another I have been spending a good many spare moments on the elaboration of our plans. The difficult work of allotting tasks to men has now been done – N [Norton]& I consulted & he made a general announcement after dinner 2 days ago. The question as to which of the first two parties should be led by Somervell & which by me was decided on two grounds (1) on the assumption that the oxygen party would be less exhausted & be in the position of helping the other it seemed best that I should use oxygen & be responsible for the descent (2) it seemed more likely on his last year’s performance that Somervell would recover after a gasless attempt to be useful again later. It was obvious that either Irvine or Odell should come with me in the first gas party. Odell is in charge of the gas, but Irvine has been the engineer at work on the apparatus – what was provided was full of leaks & faults & he has practically invented a new instrument using up only a few of the old parts & cutting out much that was useless & likely to cause trouble; moreover the remaining parties had to be considered and it wouldn’t do to make Irvine the partner of Geoffrey Bruce as they would lack mountaineering experience; & so Irvine will come with me. He will be an extraordinarily stout companion, very capable with the gas & with cooking apparatus; the only doubt is to what extent his lack of mountaineering experience will be a handicap; I hope the ground will be sufficiently easy.

Norton if he is fit enough will go with Somervell or, if he seems clearly a better goer at the moment, Hazard. Beetham is counted out, though he’s getting fitter. Odell & Geoffrey Bruce will have the important task of fixing Camp V at 25,500.

The whole difficulty of fitting people in so that they take a part in the assault according to their desire or ambition is so great that I can’t feel distressed about the part that falls to me. The gasless party has the better adventure, and as it has always been my pet plan to climb the mountain gasless with two camps above the Chang La it is naturally a bit disappointing that I shall be with the other party. Still the conquest of the mountain is the great thing & the whole plan is mine & my part will be a sufficiently interesting one & will give me perhaps the best chance of all of getting to the top. It is almost unthinkable with this plan that I shan’t get to the top; I can’t see myself coming down defeated. And I have very good hopes that the gasless party will get up; I want all 4 of us to get there, & I believe it can be done. We shall be starting by moonlight if the morning is calm & should have the mountain climbed if we’re lucky before the wind is dangerous.

This evening 4 of us have been testing the oxygen apparatus, and comparing the new arrangements with the old. Irvine has managed to save weight, 4 or 5 lbs, besides making a much more certain as well as more convenient instrument. I was glad to find I could easily carry it up the hill even without using the gas, & better of course with it. On steep ground where one has to climb more or less the load is a great handicap & at this elevation a man is better without it. The weight is about 30 lbs, rather less. There is nothing in front of one’s body to hinder climbing & the general impression I have is that it is a perfectly manageable load. My plan will be to carry as little as possible, go fast & rush the summit. Finch & Bruce tried carrying too many cylinders.

I’m still very fit & happy. Tibet is giving us many beautiful moments. With these abnormal weather conditions it is much warmer than in ’22 & the whole journey is more comfortable. It is nice having one’s own poney – mine is a nice beast to ride, but he’s not in good condition, & today has had a nasty attack of colic; however he’ll have a long holiday to come soon & I hope he’ll fatten up & arrive fit & well in Darjeeling were I shall sell him. Only 4 marches, starting tomorrow morning to the Rongbuk monastery! We’re getting very near now. On May 3 four of us will leave the Base Camp & begin the upward trek & on May 17 or thereabouts we should reach the summit. I’m eager for the great event to begin.

Now dearest I must say Good Night to you & turn into my cosy sleeping bag, where I shall have a clean nose sheet tonight, one of the two you made to fix with patent fasteners. Considering how much grease my face requires & gets that device has been very useful.

Great love to you always.

The telegram announcing our success if we succeed will precede this letter I suppose; but it will mention no names. How you will hope that I was one of the conquerors. And I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Ever your loving
George

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongbuk Base Camp

Full Transcript

Dearest Ruth,

We’ve had unexpected notice of a home bound mail tomorrow & I’ve no letter ready. We arrived here only yesterday, & I have been busy ever since, the reason for this is in part that we have arranged for our army of Tibetan coolies to carry our loads up the glacier to No. 2 camp; 150 have actually gone up today; consequently we have had a great rush getting our loads ready to go up. My special concern has been with the high climbing stores & provisions for high camp. Yesterday morning as the animals arrived here I got hold of the boxes I wanted - most of which I knew by sight - from among the feet of the donkeys & yaks and had them carried to a place apart. So I was able to get ready 30 loads, apart from food stores, yesterday afternoon. Later Norton & I had a long pow wow about the whole of our plan as affects the porters. It is a very complicated business to arrange the carrying to the high camps while considering what the porters have been doing & where, during the previous ten days, so as to have sufficient regard to their acclimatisation & fitness; further one has to consider the filling up of Camp III which will still be going on after we have begun the carrying to IV, the accommodation at the various camps; & finally the escorting of porters from III upwards. However, I have made a plan for the porters which fits in with that previously made for climbers, & though a plan of this kind must necessarily be complicated it allows for a certain margin & even a bad day or two won’t upset out applecart.

Irvine & I with Beetham & Hazard start from here on May 3 & after resting a day at Camp III the last 2 will establish Camp IV while I [Irvine] & I have a canter up to about 23,000 up the E. ridge of Changtse, partly to get a better look at camping sites on the mountain & partly to have a trial run & give me some idea of what to expect from I [Irvine] B [Beetham] & H Hazard] two days later will escort the 1st lot of loads to IV; Odell & Geoffrey Bruce the second, establishing Camp V on the following day; Norton & Somervell & lastly Irvine & self follow; Irvine & I will get 2 or 3 days down at Camp I meanwhile.

The Rongbuk Valley greeted us with most unpleasant weather. The day before yesterday & the following night when we were encamped outside the Rongbuk Monastery a bitterly cold wind blew, the sky was cloudy & finally we woke to find a snow storm going on. Yesterday was worse, with light snow falling most of the day. However today has been sunny after a windy night & the conditions on Everest have gradually improved until we were saying tonight that it would have been a pleasant evening for the mountain. It is curious that though quite a considerable amount of snow has fallen during these last few days & the lower slopes are well covered the upper parts of Everest appear scarcely affected – this is a phenomenon we observed often enough in 1922 & notably on the day when we made the first attempt.

I shall be busy with details of personal equipment amongst other things these next two days. But I also hope there’ll be a mail from you & time to read letters & think of you at home & perhaps write you another letter though the Lord knows when the next mail will go away from here.

We continue to be a very pleasant party – Hazard the only difficulty – we have tamed him somewhat. He & Beetham don’t love each other but I hope they’ll manage to hit it off as they are put to work together. B [Beetham] has had a truly marvellous recovery, but I can’t quite believe in his being really strong yet though he makes a parade of energy & cheerfulness & I’m a little doubtful about his being one of the first starters.

Sorry to write so poor & hurried a letter. I’m very fit – perhaps not just so absolutely a strong goer as in ’21 but good enough I believe – anyway I can think of no one in this crowd stronger, & we’re a much more even crowd than in ’22, a really strong lot, Norton & I are agreed. It would be difficult to say of any one of the 8 that he is likely to go farther or less far than the rest. I’m glad the first blow lies with me. We’re not going to be easily stopped with an organisation behind us this time.

Great love to you dearest one & many kisses to the children. Your loving George

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Camp I, Everest

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

This is going to be the scrappiest letter - a time limit for the mail has suddenly been put on and this morning when I might have been writing to you I was busy doing a communique at Norton’s request, I find it an impossible task to write that sort of thing up here. Anyway such as it is you will have read it, so that is some satisfaction.

Dear Girl, this has been a bad time altogether. I look back on tremendous efforts & exhaustion & dismal looking out of a tent door and onto a world of snow & vanishing hopes - & yet, & yet, & yet there have been a good many things to set on the other side. The party has played up wonderfully. The first visit to the North Col was a triumph for the old gang. Norton & I did the job & the cutting of course was all my part - so far as one can enjoy climbing above Camp II I enjoyed the conquest of the ice wall & crack the crux of the route, & making the steps too in the steep final 200 ft.

Odell did very useful work leading the way on from the camp to the Col; I was practically bust to the world & couldn’t have lead that half hour though I still had enough mind to direct him. We made a very bad business of the descent. It suddenly occurred to me that we ought to see what the old way down was like. Norton & I were ahead, unroped, & Odell behind in charge of a porter who had carried up a light load. We got onto ground where a practiced man can just get a long without crampons (which we hadn’t with us), chipping occasional steps in very hard snow or ice. I was all right ahead but Norton had a nasty slip & then the porter, whose knot didn’t hold so that he went down some way & was badly shaken. Meanwhile I, below, finding the best way down had walked into an obvious crevasse; by some miscalculation I had thought I had prodded the snow with which it was choked & where I hoped we could walk instead of cutting steps at the side of it - all the result of mere exhaustion no doubt - but the snow gave way & in I went with the snow tumbling all around me, down luckily only about 10 feet before I fetched up half-blind & breathless to find myself most precariously supported only by my ice axe somehow caught across the crevasse & still held in my right hand - & below was a very unpleasant black hole. I had some nasty moments before I got comfortably wedged & began to yell for help up through the round hole I had come through where the blue sky showed – this because I was afraid any operations to extricate myself would bring down a lot more snow & perhaps precipitate me into the bargain. However I soon grew tired of shouting – they hadn’t seen me from above - & bringing the snow down a little at a time I made a hole out towards the side (the crevasse ran down a slope) after some climbing, & so extricated myself - but was then on the wrong side of the crevasse, so that eventually I had to cut across a nasty slope of very hard ice & further down some mixed unpleasant snow before I was out of the wood. The others were down by a better line 10 minutes before me - that cutting against time at the end after such a day just about brought me to my limit.

So much for that day.

My one personal trouble has been a cough. It started a day or two before leaving the B.C. [Base Camp] but I thought nothing of it. In the high camp it has been the devil. Even after the day’s exercise I have described I couldn’t sleep but was distressed with bursts of coughing fit to tear one’s guts - & so headache & misery altogether; besides which of course it has a very bad effect on one’s going on the mountain. Somervell also has a cough which started a little later than mine & he has not been at his physical best.

The following day when the first loads were got to Camp IV in a snowstorm Somervell & Irvine must have made a very fine effort hauling load up the chimney. Hazard had bad luck to be left alone in charge of the porters at [Camp] IV only for one night according to our intentions, but the snow next day prevented Geoff [Bruce] & Odell from starting - & the following day he (i.e. H) elected to bring the party down quite rightly considering the weather; but can you imagine, he pointedly ordered one man, who had been appointed camp cook for the men, to stay up on the chance of his being useful to the party coming up - it is difficult to make out how exactly it happened, but evidently he didn’t shepherd his party property at all & in the end 4 stayed up one of these badly frostbitten. Had the snow been a bit worse that day we went up to bring them down things might have been very bad indeed. Poor old Norton was very hard hit altogether - hating the thought of such a bad muddle, & himself really not fit to start out next day - nor were any of us for that matter & it looked 10 to 1 against our getting up with all that snow about let alone get a party down. I led from the camp to a point some little distance above the flat glacier - the snow wasn’t so very bad as there had been no time for it to get sticky, still that part with some small delays took us 3 hours; then S. [Somervell] took us up to where Geoff [Bruce] & Odell had dumped their loads the day before & shortly afterwards Norton took on the lead; luckily we found the snow better as we proceeded, N [Norton] alone had crampons & was able to take us up to the big crevasse without step cutting.

Here we had half an hour’s halt and at 1.30 I went on again for the steep 200 ft or so to the point where the big crevasse joins the corridor. From here there were two doubtful stretches. N [Norton] led up the first while the two of us made good at the corner of the crevasse - he found the snow quite good. And S. [Somervell] led across the final slope (following Hazard’s just discernible tracks in the wrong place, but of some use now because the snow had bound better there). N. [Norton] & I had an anxious time belaying, & it began to be cold too as the sun had left us. S. [Somervell] made a very good show getting the men off - but I won’t repeat my report. Time was pretty short as it was 4.30 when they began to come back using S’s [Somervell’s] rope as a handrail. Naturally the chimney took some time. It was just dusk when we got back to camp.

N [Norton] has been quite right to bring us down for rest. It is no good sending men up the mountain unfit. The physique of the whole party has gone down sadly. The only chance now is to get fit & go for a simpler quicker plan. The only plum fit man is Geoffrey Bruce. N. [Norton] has made me responsible for choosing the parties of attack himself first choosing me into the first party if I like. But I’m quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough. Irvine will probably be one & 2 of N [Norton], S [Somervell], or self with Geoff the other 2 to make up 4 for the two parties of two each. But again I wonder whether the monsoon will give us a chance. I don’t want to get caught but our three day scheme from the Chang La will give the monsoon a good chance. We shall be going up again the day after tomorrow - Six days to the top from this camp!

Mails have come tumbling in these last days – three in rapid succession - yours dated from Westbrook with much about the car. I fear it has given you a lot of trouble; Clare’s poem with which I’m greatly delighted; a good letter from David [Pye] from P.Y.P. [Pen-y-Pass, Wales] - will you please thank him at once as I shall hardly manage to do so by this mail. Mother writes in great spirits from Aix. It’s a great joy to hear from you especially but also from anyone who will write a good letter.

The candle is burning out & I must stop.

Darling I wish you the best I can - that your anxiety will be at an end before you get this - with the best news. Which will also be the quickest. It is 50 to 1 against us but we’ll have a whack yet & do ourselves proud.

Great love to you. Ever your loving, George.

[written on margin of first page]
P.S. The parts where I boast of my part are put in to please you and not meant for other eyes. G.M.

Reminisces about their wedding day and looks forward to the birth of their baby. Tells him that Ursula, Cottie, and Mr O'Malley are expected to join him. Informs him of a statement received from Stephenson Harwood & Co where she is profiting from the sale of timber. Expresses her distaste for profiting from the war. Discusses further money issues. Asks for Mr Garrets address for Aunt Agnes. Tells him of her intention to unpack her paints and continue with her china painting. Breaks off for lunch.

Afternoon - Thanks him for his letter. Hopes that his experience of the hotel in Pen y Pass is a good one.

Is thankful for his letters. Describes watching the kittens playing and the weather. Hopes he is having a nice time. Complains that Agnes is not much of a cook. Tells him of her drive with Mildred to Shamley Green and of her wish for them to live there one day. Reminds him to send her his new address and informs him of a coming visit from Anna and Moresco Pierce. Is sorry that Mr Reade will not be joining him.

Asks him how his bank holiday faired. She had finished making a dress. She can't pay the butcher's bill because they have mislaid their accounts. Is expecting Mrs Brock [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] to bring Alan and John to tea. Discusses her book of old wives tales and asks him if he has read Wives and Daughters. She is expecting Alison the next Monday and has not heard from Trafford or Doris.

She hopes he has had a good time in Wales. Is sorry to hear of Mr Pye's recent appendix operation. Tells him of the work she has been doing making up patterns. Major Morgan is expected and is being met by Marjorie and Mildred at the station. Asks him if they could ask David Pye to visit. Hopes that he will have a good time in Yorkshire with his father and Trafford and tells him not to feel blue when at Birkenhead.

Complains that his father has not provided an address. Asks him about his trip and is glad he likes Mr O'Malley. Tells him of visiting their house to collect parcels and organise items for her confinement. Informs him that Ralph [Brooke, husband of George's sister Mary] has 10 days leave and intends to go to Scotland to stay with cousins. Describes her new painting pattern and closes with a description of the weather.

Informs him of Mildred's engagement to Major Morgan and hopes that the right decision has been made. Discusses the future between Major Morgan and her father. Hopes that Major Morgan will be kept safe in the war. Tells him of her sleepless nights and hopes he will return soon.

Complains that the coal has not been delivered. Informs him that Mildred and Marjorie are back from London with an engagement ring. Describes the new design on her plate. Discusses her book Old Wives Tales. She hopes to hear from him soon and tells him she misses him.

Tells him how she misses him and how she is coping while he is away. Expresses her desire to have more children. Tells him of an upcoming trip to London. Asks him how he is feeling and wishes she was with him. Informs him of a letter received from Avie. Tells him she got home alright after not having her train ticket.

Morning - Tells him about the photographs she has received and that she will send him some prints. Informs him that six copies of his pamphlet have been sent to the Brocks via Mr Bradby at Rugby and eighteen more have been ordered. Describes her morning activities. Tells him that Bob [Major Robert Morgan, Mildred's husband] is leaving for London but Mildred will stay. Asks him to let her know which of her letters he receives, so she doesn't repeat herself.

Afternoon - Describes her afternoon plans by herself. Hopes he is happy and well. Expresses her love for him.

Is happy that he was not sent to a trench mortar and discusses her opinions on warfare. Asks him to date his letters. Asks to know more about his position in the 40th Siege Battery. Tells him she will send him cakes and anything he asks for. Describes her visits to different friends. Tells him of Mr Kendall and Mr Fletcher’s difficulties on allowing Mr Kendall to leave for the war. Updates him on Clare’s progress and describes her recent play date visits. She has updated his parents on his welfare.

Hopes that he is receiving her letters by now. Tells him she intends to send him some seeds to plant. Describes her trip in to Liverpool. Asks him how is getting along with Mr Bell and enquires after him. Asks him questions about the guns he is using. Hopes he is happy in his surroundings. His mother is sending him a picture from Punch magazine.

Discusses her opinions on each of the photographs. Decides which ones to send to his friends.

Updates him on Clare's activities. Describes her feelings towards Harry and his relationship with Avie, and compares the household with St John's Vicarage. Informs him that she is going to Birkenhead. Discusses her thoughts on raising children.

She is busy helping his mother with the bazaar. Tells him she will be careful not to hint at his location in her letters and will not let his mother know, but will inform his father, Mildred and Marjorie. Lets him know she has sent him some tea and chocolate. Describes life at the vicarage with his mother. Hopes the war will end soon.

Discusses his previous letters to her and her thoughts on his location and duties. Asks him about the guns he is working with and if he will be moving locations soon. Describes a visit to the Brocks' and updates him on Clare's progress. Tells him she has spoken to a chemist about the Liverpool rat virus which will be sent on to him. Informs him of a letter from Mrs Saunders concerning the death of Mrs Pennyfather.