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MCPP/GM/3/1 · Subserie · 1914-1924
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letters written to his wife Ruth from the time of their engagement in 1914 until his death in 1924. They cover his time as master at Charterhouse, his time serving in the First World War, his lecture tour in America, and the three trips he made to Everest.

1914
MCPP/GM/3/1/1914 · Subserie · 3 April 1914 - 30 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

George Mallory’s correspondence with Ruth Turner, to whom he became engaged in April 1914 and married on 29 July 1914. They first met at a dinner in the Autumn of 1913 at the house of Arthur Clutton-Brock, a lawyer and writer who lived in Hindhead Road not far from Charterhouse School where George was teaching. Ruth’s mother Mary had died six years before and Ruth and her two sisters Marjorie and Mildred lived with their father, Hugh Thackeray Turner, at Westbrook, an elegant house on the far side of the Wey Valley. They met socially several times over the next few months and in March Thackeray Turner invited George to accompany him and his daughters on a trip to Italy. George and Ruth fell in love during the week longs holiday and became engaged in May.

Shortly after the engagement Ruth left to accompany her family on a long standing pre arranged holiday in Ireland based in County Donegal. George and Ruth pledged to write letters to each other daily when separated.

George and Ruth got married on 29 July 1914, George’s father conducted the ceremony and their best man was Geoffrey Winthrop Young. Due to the worsening situation in Europe they could not spend their honeymoon in the Alps as they had hoped but instead went to North Devon and then camping on the Sussex coast.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/3 · Unidad documental simple · 14-15 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

14 May - Had done very little pining as he wanted to keep all thoughts of her to be a positive experience. Spent the morning in school, teaching King Lear and Carlyle, who was a bore, and Heroes and Hero-Worship which would be a good book if it were shorter. Had finished teaching Cromwell much to his relief.

He wouldn't think about talking to his friends about the things he writes to her about. Had spent the afternoon chaperoning students on the river towards Somerset Bridge and was due to have a pupil at 9:15.

15 May - The weather was nice and he wished she was there. The weather wouldn't be nice with her as she was in Ireland. Hopes she has been sick on the boat as when he is sick it does him good. He had to see Rendall about an entrance English paper and asks if Ruth's father knows Rendall.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/4 · Unidad documental simple · 16 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

She must be in another continent at least as he had not yet received a letter from her.

His Form were dong a paper on the First Act of King Lear. He had been to a tennis party and dinner party at the Headmaster's House where Mrs Fletcher [wife of the Headmaster] had referred to Ruth as very pretty. Mrs Fletcher had asked about their arrangements for the future and what colour their rooms would be. Suggests they should be high toned and have an emerald, sapphire or amethyst room; or be romantic and have a room like Monte Cristo’s cave; or like the bottom of the sea; or, should he take Orders and adopt mid Victorian culture?

Had been to a dinner party at Prior’s Field with the Clutton-Brocks. Sets out his plans for the weekend.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/5 · Unidad documental simple · 17 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was delighted her letter had arrived. The country sounded lovely and he wished he could walk the hills with her. Glad she loved the hills and was interested in Whymper’s ‘Scrambles’. They ought to have a proper climbing season that year in the Alps.

Had spent the morning altering the second four lines of the sonnet he was writing [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/2] and gives her instructions on the metre and how best to read it. He hopes she will like it. He had been correcting Shakespeare papers and was behind with his correspondence. He had an aversion to the military and would like to discuss the subject more with her. He was a doubter in life with enough firm views for a firm foundation but liked to think and change his mind. Mary's [his sister] man Ralph Brooke was an instructor at Woolwich, and therefore both a school-master and a solider.

She wouldn't be lonely now she had the sonnet. He adds to the letter the next day asking her to date her letters.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/6 · Unidad documental simple · 18 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Teases her about misspelling the word 'glacier' [Ruth had dyslexia]. Misses and loves her. Is frightened when she says their life will be perfect together and warns her to expect downs as well as ups but thinks it will turn out at least as good or even better than she imagines.

Would send her a letter from his mother and asks her opinion. He describes the previous day when he had been walking with Hilton Young [Geoffrey Young’s brother]. They had met another Cambridge friend was was now a doctor and a man he knew slightly. His friends were nicer now than when they were at Cambridge. Puts it down to having a job. He lunched with the Clutton-Brocks and played cricket with the boys.

He was behind with work and worried about the Shakespeare papers which he had been correcting - the boys didn’t appreciate Cordelia. They didn't have the necessary emotional experience. He wanted to write an article about Cromwell. Clutton-Brock had given him his book about William Morris which he would read and send on.

He had received a cheque for £100 as a wedding present. It was a serious annoyance to him that she was rich and he was poor.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/7 · Unidad documental simple · 19 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had started the letter once already ragging her for not writing [he had not received a letter that day] but had torn it up as he was afraid she would take it too seriously. He assumes there was no Sunday post. His sister Mary and Ralph Brooke were in the room talking and it was distracting him. Ralph had played in a cricket match against the school and made a century. Would she like him to be a hero like that? Mary and Ralph were talking about their wedding service plans and about cricket.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/8 · Unidad documental simple · 20 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had no pupil that evening. The boys were being taught to fight on the other side of the pergola so it wasn't quiet. Agrees that other people seemed dull and it was all wrong and annoying but it would all be alright once they are married.

His day had started with a pupil before breakfast followed by two hours in school. One class contained some exceptionally irritating people and he was quite annoyed. He had a more enjoyable afternoon teaching history to his form and then English with the smallest boys. He had read poetry with them and they seemed enchanted. He was in quite a good humour.

He hadn't known how important her letters would become to him. He had found a photograph of himself taken in Wales which he hoped was agreeable. He provides an address for Avie [his sister Annie Victoria known as Avie]. He was delighted with a map Ruth had sent as it made him think of her in beautiful surroundings. He hoped she would get up the mountain and warned her not to be deceived by Whymper as things had changed a lot since his day [late 1800s]. They knew much more now and climbed much better.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/9 · Unidad documental simple · 21 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

It was a wonderful that she loved him and wanted to know him and that his letters had meaning to her.

She mustn’t depend too much on him as he might affect her growth and she his. There must be separate individual growths. He was not perfect and didn't wish to be because it would be very dull. She was so disturbing to his balance that he didn't now whether he was on his head or his heels.

He was reading Clutton-Brock’s book on William Morris whom he admired. Morris was the foundation of all their present revolt against the heritage of Victorian ugliness. He had also read two new sonnets by Keats which expressed exactly his own feeling. That was what the great poets did for us.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/10 · Unidad documental simple · 22 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School on headed notepaper [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had written to his mother but did not understand her reply until Mary [his sister] explained to him that it was usual for a bride-groom’s parents to provide house linen. He had slept out the previous night and felt glorious and now had to prepare his history lessons.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/11 · Unidad documental simple · 23 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/12 · Unidad documental simple · 24 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had spent a very lazy morning talking with Lytton [Lytton Strachey, a friend of Mallory’s who was staying with him at Charterhouse], reading poetry, particularly The Menage of the March Wind by William Morris. He was visited by Alan Goodfellow who had been ill and stayed to talk during Chapel [he had climbed with Mallory in the Lakes the previous year]. Breakfast and lunch were trying as Lytton didn't like boys. He was very shy because he talked in a falsetto voice. In this sort of company he would say very little and yet look very striking. He was a man you couldn't ignore.

Ruth’s life didn't sound all joy and he hoped the fishermen appreciated how good she was [Ruth and her sisters Marjorie and Mildred spent much of the time rowing the men in the party including their Uncles Lawrence and Hawes out onto the Lochs to fish]. She had a dangerously unselfish disposition but she wouldn't spend her life doing little jobs for him.

Time was a rude limitation on their existence and they would have to find more of it by being more organised. It was only a week and a half until they would see each other.

Postscript - asks if they can make a new vocabulary of love words.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/13 · Unidad documental simple · 25 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was longing to be with her. What was the use of writing about the little things he had done and thought when one thing was so much greater than the rest.

[Letter is continued later that day] - He had spent a glorious evening in her canoe with two boys and had a successful picnic. He describes the different garden flowers he had seen. Asks her where they should meet the following Wednesday. Upcoming week would be spent correcting the English papers of scholarship candidates and seeing pupils. His mother wanted them to visit her in Birkenhead, and that she was delighted with his letter. He hoped she got up that mountain on Saturday.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/14 · Unidad documental simple · 26 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He was concerned about where they would live mentioning two places that they had considered but were no longer possible. They would get a house somehow and he wanted her all to myself next holiday.

He had been back to Westbrook [Ruth’s family home which was close to Charterhouse] as they had left the hook behind [see: PP/GM/1/1/1914/13]. She was very much in the air and he had picked some flowers. He was due to dine at Brooke Hall with his guest Mr Becker [a former music master], and feared he would have to play Bridge.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/15 · Unidad documental simple · 27 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Regrets that she did not receive his long letter sent on Saturday. He was glad she went on her walk. Compared her 10 hour climb to a 15 hour climb in the Alps.

Explained what he meant when he said she was true.

The following day would be busy as he would have to take another master’s English class and still had scholarship papers to mark.

He ought to go to Mary's wedding [his sister] but it could be difficult leaving school. There was bad news in relation to a prospective house and hoped something else would turn up.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/16 · Unidad documental simple · 28 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Asks if she had received Sunday's letter [24 May] as well as Saturday’s letter [23 May]. Expected her letter to be in the humblest vein or even remorse that she had thought he could be anything but the most virtuous and punctual of correspondents.

Supposes it’s the walk that made her feel jiggish, skippish, skittish, spriggish, snappish and frolicsome and not his beautiful long letter which was the longest he'd ever written. The real worry about her being in Ireland was that it took so long to get an answer and they often seemed to have the same thoughts.

Discusses plans for meeting on Wednesday. He planned to go to Oxford for the weekend and asks her to send her letter to him on Saturday c/o F. Urquhart, Balliol College. He spent the afternoon with some boys at the Jenkinsons’ but could not play with them as he had a bad toe.

She shouldn't begin worrying about what she could or could not say to him.

The weather was changing and he was looking forward to visiting Oxford which was the most beautiful place of it’s kind. His mother was very keen for them both to visit. Wishes he had her help choosing Mary’s wedding present. Must attend a meeting at the Headmasters [Frank Fletcher] to elect the Junior Scholars.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/17 · Unidad documental simple · 30 May 1914
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had received a lovely long letter from her and was sorry she had hurt her hand and was not in very good health. He had a bad toe which caused him to limp. Discusses possible houses they could take and plans for the rooms asking if they were to have a piano. Arthur Benson had written to ask what he should give as a wedding present and asks what he should give as an answer - a Persian rug or a bath towel?

1915
MCPP/GM/3/1/1915 · Subserie · July 1915 - 31 December 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Increasing numbers of George’s friends were joining up to serve in the war effort in different capacities but when he enquired about doing so himself his Headmaster refused him permission as the Government wanted to retain its school teachers. By July Ruth was pregnant and George was restless so he went on a climbing trip to Pen y Pass with Hugh Heber-Percy and toured Yorkshire with his father.

On 18 September their first child was born - a daughter called Frances Clare (known as Clare).

His brother in law, the artillery officer Ralph Brooke, offered to help him get a commission in the Royal Artillery, if he could get permission from his Headmaster to join up. This was finally agreed and Brooke wrote to a friend who ran an artillery training course in Weymouth to recommend Mallory. The training was due to start in January 1916 so he travelled to Birkenhead to spend Christmas with his parents, then a few days climbing at Pen y Pass with Conor O'Brien and Herbert Reade before visiting his sister Avie in Mobberley. He did not spend Christmas with Ruth and Clare.

Letters
PP/GM/3/1/1915/1-9 Pen y Pass (July and August)

PP/GM/3/1/1915/10-11 Touring Yorkshire with his father (August)

PP/GM/3/1/1915/12-13 Pateley Bridge on his own (August)

PP/GM/3/1/1915/14 On the train to Cambridge (August)

PP/GM/3/1/1915/15 On the train from Birkenhead after having spent Christmas with his parents (December)

PP/GM/3/1/1915/16-17 Pen y Pass (December)

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/1 · Unidad documental simple · July 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass [no date]

Had arrived in Pen y Pass but instead of a car there was a little trap to meet them. They were expected but when they arrived the hall was dark as the current had been turned off due to a thunderstorm. They were staying in the lower shack and his bed was too short. Hugh was excited about the prospect of climbing. There was one other guest in the hotel, a man called O’Malley who would climb with them that day. Weather was clearing and they planned to go toward Tryfan. He had been sorry to leave her but was glad to be there.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/2 · Unidad documental simple · 29 July 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

Thanks her for sending on his silk socks which he had forgotten. They had a strenuous first day climbing different variations of routes on the South Buttress of Tryfan. He had rescued a lamb and carried it to safety in his rucksack. They had gone to Ogwen for tea as he wanted to persuade Mrs Jones to take the O’Malley party after their week in their current hotel. Hugh was a better walker than he expected but he hadn't got the hang of climbing yet and he was worried he didn't like it. O’Malley was a nice gentle person but wasn't very interesting. Their next objective was Lliwedd but the road had been closed by the military. They were going to invite Lieutenant Fisher (the officer in command) to dinner. The previous night he had sat with a mug of beer by the fire, played picquet with Hugh and read a chapter of The Ambassadors in bed.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/3 · Unidad documental simple · July 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass [no date]

He hadn’t received a letter from her. They had an amusing adventure getting passed the soldiers who were guarding the pipes running from the lake to the power station and so on to LLiwedd. He had managed to get hold of the newspapers and he was beginning to back the Russians as the Germans were taking too long to get through. Hoped she was well and wasn't bored. Changes were a blessing at times which men want more than women. Did she have any news of Trafford.

Friday - they were going to make an early start, take things gently and he wouldn't attempt anything that was not within his powers.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/4 · Unidad documental simple · 31 July 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Saturday

He had gone to the power station to get permission from Lieutenant Fisher to use the road to get to Lliwedd. Their attempt to get him to come to dinner had failed. He wouldn't be deterred from climbing on Lliwedd. O'Malley had landed in the angle of a rock and struggled gasping like a fish which was very funny. Cottie and her two men were due to arrive and he hoped they would get a little climb in before dinner.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/5 · Unidad documental simple · 2 August 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Monday

Cottie’s party had arrived and he quite liked her husband. They had been to Tryfaen and climbed the Central Buttress, five on the rope - Bertie Graham was stiff and slow and Owen was quite active and promising. Cottie had been the greatest encumbrance to their progress as her muscles were feeble but she had lead a bit towards the top which was better. She would soon recover herself. His boots were a great success and he was feeling fit. Ursula [Nettleship] was expected to arrive that day and Hugh would leave the following day. He had bathed in the lake above the hotel that morning for the first time. He had been reading some interesting essays by Jane Harrison, one was about the prejudices faced by women and what their position ought to be.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/6 · Unidad documental simple · 3 August 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Pen y Pass on Tuesday

He had been nailing boots (not his) for an hour and a half. Ursula arrived yesterday afternoon and was happy. She found them all playing cards around a fire in the Shack. Hugh had left that morning and had enjoyed himself. The clouds were clearing and they were planning on climbing to the Parson’s Nose. Ruth’s letter had betrayed her anxiety and it was a mild affair and he was very strong.

MCPP/GM/3/1/1915/7 · Unidad documental simple · 4 August 1915
Parte de College Personal Papers and Biographical Information

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Wednesday

He had been for a delicious bathe in the little lake. On the previous day Owen had cut his hand and couldn’t climb so he had conducted Ursula and Bertie Graham on an easy climb. They met Cottie and Owen at the top and he and Cottie climbed on Clogwyn y Ddysgl and then walked along the ridge towards Snowdon. Then down the zig zag path and along the Pip Track which didn’t get them back until past dinner time.

Was urging people to get ready and hoped to go to the Buttress of Lliwedd. They hadn’t got their pass yet but he thought they could avoid the sentries again. He was due to leave on Friday [6 August] and sleep the night at Birkenhead and he thought Trafford would have arrived before him [he was to collect his father and then spend a week travelling with him in Yorkshire]. Asks her to send her letters to Birkenhead as he didn’t know where they would be in Yorkshire.