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Brief Summary
Reconnaissance to find a route to the North Col and therefore a route to the summit of Everest.

Detailed Summary
On the first page Mallory gives a very brief summary of events on each day.

2 August – Elaborate preparations to leave Kharta. Took same mountaineering stores as they had from Tingri but left behind the primus stoves and a bundle of sleeping sacks. Thought they were in easy reach of the base of Kharta and could send for them later. Main problem was rations. Porters had decided they didn’t have enough to eat. Howard-Bury had accused Gyaltzen of making money out of them. Needed to devise a way of providing rations so Gyaltzen was not involved buying them. It was decided he would buy food on credit during the march and the Colonel would pay later.

It was a hazardous adventure but the prospects seemed rosy. The great glacier stream joining the Arun just below them was presumed to come from Everest and the left branch from the North Col. They expected to be on the North Col within a few days. However, the start from Kharta was dilatory. The Sidar was up late and hadn’t organised anything. The loads had been counted wrong, they had no animals and had to leave three loads behind. In Shikar Kharta [Kharta Shekar] they were received by the Dzongpen [governor] and had tea and biscuits. There was an argument with the porters about rations and they had to be urged to continue. They stopped at a house to drink and admire the rugs that were being woven. Then they came to a monastery where one porter refused to continue on. The porter put up the tents at the junction of the valley after only ½ days march.

3 August – As they had stopped after so short a march the day before they had a long march on the second day. They had a rise of 4,000 ft to the pass. They pitched tents on a yak grazing ground above the valley. Flowers very good on both sides the pass and he found the blue primula. No sheep or goats.

4 August – Clouds had not lifted and they had a descent of 800 ft to river bed. There was rich vegetation which he describes. Heavy rain cam e down and they decided to set up camp although it was early. Thought they were going in the wrong direction and wanted clouds to clear to make sure. Discussion with Headman and was assured a route did exist up the valley

5 August – Clouds began to clear so they could see Everest. Reconnaissance out from the camp and up a final low peak showed no easy way existed which could take them round to the end of East ridge.

6 August - Fine morning and pleasant walk up the right bank of the glacier. Fine show of gentians. A steep rise of about 800 ft lead to a very small lake where we camped. Snow fell almost continuously in afternoon and evening. Clouds broke to give a wonderful view at sunset.

7 August – Later start than planned. Cook was ill and everything was covered with snow but they got off at 4.10am. Their objective was the conspicuous sharp show peak, third from the N.E. Arete of Everest. Describes the trek to the col which they reached at 8.45am. Had a hearty meal and took two photos. Not possible to see the head of the glacier north of them. They climbed up and it was clear that the glacier head was a snow col. He insisted that the peak ahead must be climbed in order to try and see the north col. The next section was very steep. The east face in front of them had to be avoided. The south face was separated from them by a broad gully. Snow was very deep and he was constantly thinking of the danger of avalanches. They managed to get onto the steep south slope. The porters (Nimya, [Nyima] Alugga, Pema, and Dasno) learnt much about using the rope. They reached the far edge at 12:15 pm and looked across directly to the east ridge of Everest although still couldn’t see the North col. The party lay down to sleep while he took photos and ate some food before trekking the final slopes. He then went on with Nimya [Nyima] and Dasno. They abandoned their snowshoes at the foot of a very steep snow face. Dasno then abandoned them. As he thought the snow was in too bad a condition. It was a place to fear an avalanche. It was exhausting and he disn’t get a clear view as a reward. Bullock led down, very slow in the steep snow. He had a baddish headache by this time and felt unwell. When they got back at about 4.30pm he felt exhausted and feverish and in spite of warm clothes couldn’t prevent himself shivering.

8 August – Porters were delayed in arriving so they prepared to move without them. He felt weak walking. Met up with porters and heard Howard-Bury had arrived at Base Camp. Reached Base Camp at 11.15am. Howard-Bury was out photographing. He went to bed. Discussed rations again and decided to give the porters a share of the balance and they were happy.

9 August - Felt slack with swollen glands in the neck and a sore throat but was fitter to walk. Collected flowers and seeds on the way down. Howard-Bury decided to go back to Kharta by another pass. Had to stand and wait ½ hour for the clouds to thin so he could take 2 photographs of the summit. He saw a beautifu lblue gentian which he had never seen before in the Alps. He realised he wasn’t carrying his woollen waistcoat. Retraced his steps but couldn’t find it. Offered a reward to any porter who could find it. They looked but couldn’t see it.

10 August – Saw a tiny yellow saxifrage which Wollaston hadn’t got. Continued down hill and was pleased he could leave Bullock behind going downhill as well as up. The meadows in the valley were delicious and very warm.

11 August - Bathed in the stream. Had been promised yakmen were coming but they didn’t arrive. Managed to get hold of two yaks and left packs for porters to bring. He felt unwell and the porters were slack. Gorang lied by saying there was no water higher up. Had to persuade the porters to continue. Found water and a good sheltered spot for the camp.

12 August: A days rest and fuel collecting. He kept to his bed.

13 August - feeling feeble with a sore throat and swollen glands. Morshead arrived with a note from Wollaston and Bury which cheered him a good deal. Bullock sent a note in the evening with depressing news that the valley was ‘no good’. This mean fresh efforts of reconnaissance. Was a comfort to have Morshead.

14 August – they searched for a possible approach and had been mistaken about the topography of the expected valley. Hoped two more days would settle the question.

15 August – He and Morshead followed a shelf but found no exit to their glacier and had to stop, camping at a place with just enough room where the ground was not too sloping to pitch the three tents.

16 August - Best chance of a clear view was to go up. Doesn’t know why he went one except he was so miserable he wanted to reduce the rest of the party to a like state of mind. Bullock lead down the glacier badly doing little to avoid the crevasses which were covered by snow. They discussed plans at some length. A sketch map had arrived from Wheeler the day before showing a glacier [East Rongbuk Glacier] of enormous dimensions running north from Everest and draining into the Rongbuk valley but it’s inaccuracies had made them discount Wheler’s conclusion too much. He showed no East ridge to the North Peak. He thought wheeler had mistaken that ridge for the N.E. Arete of Everest (which he showed S.E.). He had little hope it would be of service to them. It could only be so if it drained on to the Rongbuk valley as Bullock thought probable. Either Wheeler must be right or the North Col was lower than they thought and the cwm high enough to push its glacier near it. They agreed he would descend to the north to see if there was a glacier in that direction.

17 August Gives three causes of the failure of rations supply.

Brief Summary
Diary entry written on 4 May in which he describes recent events on board the S.S. Sardinia on the voyage from England to India. On 20 April they reached Port Said and travelled along the Suez Canal before entering the Red Sea and sailing towards India.

Detailed Summary
The Suez Canal was perfectly smooth which was a pleasant change after the boisterness Mediterranean. He was surprised to see ships prouder than them including a Japanese battleship. At Port Said the quayside was very smart and more like a sea-front than the sort of place where vessels were tied up in an English port with it’s background of warehouses. The scene was gay and impressive but did not make his heart rejoice. A few Egyptian men had a very graceful way of rowing - they stood up in the boat and faced the bows. He had spent two hours onshore at Port Said.

He had imagined the Suez Canal to be very big, about as wide as the Thames at Westminster, with a continuous stream of great ships moving in either direction, all under a blazing hot sun and deep blue sky between unbroken banks of yellow sand. But the canal wasn't very wide and there was a dull, almost grey atmosphere on the day they went through. He describes the housing along the banks of the Canal, as well as the landscape and towing path.

There were reminders of the recent war with a vast quantity of war material collected together in a camp which stretched several miles along the bank. There were signs of activity but the whole appearance of the vast dump was indescribably desolate.

He had been warned about the heat in the Red Sea. The weather was humid, the sky was overcast and the atmosphere very moist. He was surprised by the lowering and gloomy aspect of the clouds which the Captain said contained sand which was often blown to a great height and they were leaving a sand storm behind them which was a fortunate escape.

He could see small islands which rose very abruptly from the water. Their geological origin must be volcanic, they were very bare and rocky.

They spent three hours in Aden. The people there wore fewer clothes, especially the little boys of whom a great number approached him and his companion. On the verandah of a large hotel he saw a single man pulling on a rope which worked a ‘punkah’ [a series of rectangular sails about 4 ft x 2 ft hanging from a frame] with a flapping motion. It was a pleasure to walk a mile or so on land.

On entering the Indian Ocean the change was immediately perceptible. There was a long gentle swell and for six days the ship was heaving. The heat was mild as they approached Ceylon.

He saw monsoon clouds for the first time and expected bad weather. What particularly interested him in observing these clouds was the effect of the immense size in the whole arch of the sky which he compared to the Fenlands in England. The sky in the Indian Ocean was vaster than any he had seen at home.

They entered the harbour of Colombo which, unlike Port Said had an air of modesty. Long low red and yellow houses could be seen through the trees. Colombo, looked at from the harbour, was like a town that happened in a forest and from the inside it looked like a town lying in a garden.

He could see forests which were were moist and brilliant green. The various palm trees which predominated were garden rather than forest trees. He describes the trees, shrubs, and flowers he’s observed, mentioning Poinciana Regina, which flowered very freely with a cluster of brilliant scarlet blossoms, the temple tree, and a hibiscus, which was used as everybody’s garden hedge and had a large scarlet like flower. Many trees had red or yellow blooms and the air was laden with their heavy scent.

He spent an enjoyable time in Colombo with Captain Forbes. They met an acquaintance of Captain Forbes and drank brandy and ginger ale together before being joined by another Englishman.

He took a car to Mount Lavinia which was a moving experience as that was the first time he had seen the East.

He will write more about the East in another chapter. The S.S. Sardinia had to hurry up and get to Calcutta. No more economy of coal. Tomorrow they should be in Madras and on the 10th in Calcutta - five days sooner than the Captain estimated.

The diary entry ends as they were steaming up to the Bay of Bengal.

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Document in French signed by Louis Henri Joseph de Bourbon.

The document describes the approval of a pension to a retiring officer with rheumatism in the Régiment de Bourbon Dragons under Capitaine La Guiche (Amable-Charles de La Guiche, 1747- 1799).

Parchment document in French signed by Louis XIV. The document is slightly cropped along the right-hand edge and in the lower right corner, and therefore a small amount of text is missing.
The document is countersigned by Louis II Phélypeaux de Pontchartrain.

Document in French signed by Louis XVI.

A Document addressed to Jean-Baptiste Tourteau of Septeuil, General Treasurer of the Civil List, with an instruction to pay [Duras?] three thousand livres for his appointment as governor at the Château de Saint-Hubert.