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Two black and white photographs mounted together showing a group photo of the crew and the boat in action during the race.

Names on the board read:
J. R. Pope (bow), S. S. Gill, J. Yerburgh, H. C. Straker, I. S. Mant, J. R. Pickin, R. D. France, F. A. Woods (Stroke), J. A. Barrett (cox)
Coaches: R. F. Bennett and T. B. Anderson.

Started 14th, finished 2nd. Time: 17m 39s.

Two black and white photographs mounted together showing a group photo of the crew and the boat in action during the race.

Names on the board read:
J. R. Pope (bow) , J. Boardman, J. R. Pickin, R. P. Dollimore, J. C. Charteris, N. Parker-Jervis, J. N. Cochrane, S. King (stroke), D. G. Harwood (cox).
Coach: J. I. Lees (Selwyn)
Bumped: Selwyn 2, L.M.B.C. 3, Downing 2, Caius 2

Black and white group photograph.

Names on the board read:
J. R. Pope (bow) , J. Boardman, K. H. Arbuckle, N. Parker-Jervis, G. B. Davison, J. R. Pickin, D. McCarraher, F. A. Woods (stroke), F. C. Lacey (cox).
Coaches: R. F. Bennett, H. B. S. Gunn, S. King
Bumped Christ's 2, Fitzwilliam I

Black and white group photograph.

Names on the board read:
J. R. Cottle (bow), J. G. Durham, P. G. Cazalet, G. W. Kingsnorth, P. R. Crellin, D. Barker, J. R. Pope, J. A. B. Bond (stroke), A. J. Owen (Cox)
Coach: J. Palmer.
Bumped: Clare 6, Caius 6, L.M.B.C. 8, Downing 5.

Black and white photograph of the athletics team. Names on the board:

J. M. Miller, D. Canham, , P. W. C. Hollowell, C. Mackenzie
R. S. King, J. T. Mitchell, E. H. Savill, G. W. Page Phillips, G. Parker Jervis
J. Hewat, J. E. Simmonds

Founded in 1828.

Black and white photograph showing the Boat Crew on the river outside the Boat House.

Copies of letters and telegrams of condolence sent to the Everest Committee from various Mountaineering Associations and Committees, forwarded by Arthur Hinks to Ruth Mallory.

Black and white photograph of the team for the 1904-05 academic year. Names on the board:

W.R. Lucas, H.L. Gwyer, G.K. Leach, H.W. Emerson, A.V. Poyser, A.E. Bellars (Hon. Sec), C.R.I. Johnson (Captain), E.H. Hincks, N.M. Fergusson, J.W. Horne

Brief Summary
Reconnaissance to find a route to the North Col and therefore a route to the summit of Everest.

Detailed Summary
On the first page Mallory gives a very brief summary of events on each day.

2 August – Elaborate preparations to leave Kharta. Took same mountaineering stores as they had from Tingri but left behind the primus stoves and a bundle of sleeping sacks. Thought they were in easy reach of the base of Kharta and could send for them later. Main problem was rations. Porters had decided they didn’t have enough to eat. Howard-Bury had accused Gyaltzen of making money out of them. Needed to devise a way of providing rations so Gyaltzen was not involved buying them. It was decided he would buy food on credit during the march and the Colonel would pay later.

It was a hazardous adventure but the prospects seemed rosy. The great glacier stream joining the Arun just below them was presumed to come from Everest and the left branch from the North Col. They expected to be on the North Col within a few days. However, the start from Kharta was dilatory. The Sidar was up late and hadn’t organised anything. The loads had been counted wrong, they had no animals and had to leave three loads behind. In Shikar Kharta [Kharta Shekar] they were received by the Dzongpen [governor] and had tea and biscuits. There was an argument with the porters about rations and they had to be urged to continue. They stopped at a house to drink and admire the rugs that were being woven. Then they came to a monastery where one porter refused to continue on. The porter put up the tents at the junction of the valley after only ½ days march.

3 August – As they had stopped after so short a march the day before they had a long march on the second day. They had a rise of 4,000 ft to the pass. They pitched tents on a yak grazing ground above the valley. Flowers very good on both sides the pass and he found the blue primula. No sheep or goats.

4 August – Clouds had not lifted and they had a descent of 800 ft to river bed. There was rich vegetation which he describes. Heavy rain cam e down and they decided to set up camp although it was early. Thought they were going in the wrong direction and wanted clouds to clear to make sure. Discussion with Headman and was assured a route did exist up the valley

5 August – Clouds began to clear so they could see Everest. Reconnaissance out from the camp and up a final low peak showed no easy way existed which could take them round to the end of East ridge.

6 August - Fine morning and pleasant walk up the right bank of the glacier. Fine show of gentians. A steep rise of about 800 ft lead to a very small lake where we camped. Snow fell almost continuously in afternoon and evening. Clouds broke to give a wonderful view at sunset.

7 August – Later start than planned. Cook was ill and everything was covered with snow but they got off at 4.10am. Their objective was the conspicuous sharp show peak, third from the N.E. Arete of Everest. Describes the trek to the col which they reached at 8.45am. Had a hearty meal and took two photos. Not possible to see the head of the glacier north of them. They climbed up and it was clear that the glacier head was a snow col. He insisted that the peak ahead must be climbed in order to try and see the north col. The next section was very steep. The east face in front of them had to be avoided. The south face was separated from them by a broad gully. Snow was very deep and he was constantly thinking of the danger of avalanches. They managed to get onto the steep south slope. The porters (Nimya, [Nyima] Alugga, Pema, and Dasno) learnt much about using the rope. They reached the far edge at 12:15 pm and looked across directly to the east ridge of Everest although still couldn’t see the North col. The party lay down to sleep while he took photos and ate some food before trekking the final slopes. He then went on with Nimya [Nyima] and Dasno. They abandoned their snowshoes at the foot of a very steep snow face. Dasno then abandoned them. As he thought the snow was in too bad a condition. It was a place to fear an avalanche. It was exhausting and he disn’t get a clear view as a reward. Bullock led down, very slow in the steep snow. He had a baddish headache by this time and felt unwell. When they got back at about 4.30pm he felt exhausted and feverish and in spite of warm clothes couldn’t prevent himself shivering.

8 August – Porters were delayed in arriving so they prepared to move without them. He felt weak walking. Met up with porters and heard Howard-Bury had arrived at Base Camp. Reached Base Camp at 11.15am. Howard-Bury was out photographing. He went to bed. Discussed rations again and decided to give the porters a share of the balance and they were happy.

9 August - Felt slack with swollen glands in the neck and a sore throat but was fitter to walk. Collected flowers and seeds on the way down. Howard-Bury decided to go back to Kharta by another pass. Had to stand and wait ½ hour for the clouds to thin so he could take 2 photographs of the summit. He saw a beautifu lblue gentian which he had never seen before in the Alps. He realised he wasn’t carrying his woollen waistcoat. Retraced his steps but couldn’t find it. Offered a reward to any porter who could find it. They looked but couldn’t see it.

10 August – Saw a tiny yellow saxifrage which Wollaston hadn’t got. Continued down hill and was pleased he could leave Bullock behind going downhill as well as up. The meadows in the valley were delicious and very warm.

11 August - Bathed in the stream. Had been promised yakmen were coming but they didn’t arrive. Managed to get hold of two yaks and left packs for porters to bring. He felt unwell and the porters were slack. Gorang lied by saying there was no water higher up. Had to persuade the porters to continue. Found water and a good sheltered spot for the camp.

12 August: A days rest and fuel collecting. He kept to his bed.

13 August - feeling feeble with a sore throat and swollen glands. Morshead arrived with a note from Wollaston and Bury which cheered him a good deal. Bullock sent a note in the evening with depressing news that the valley was ‘no good’. This mean fresh efforts of reconnaissance. Was a comfort to have Morshead.

14 August – they searched for a possible approach and had been mistaken about the topography of the expected valley. Hoped two more days would settle the question.

15 August – He and Morshead followed a shelf but found no exit to their glacier and had to stop, camping at a place with just enough room where the ground was not too sloping to pitch the three tents.

16 August - Best chance of a clear view was to go up. Doesn’t know why he went one except he was so miserable he wanted to reduce the rest of the party to a like state of mind. Bullock lead down the glacier badly doing little to avoid the crevasses which were covered by snow. They discussed plans at some length. A sketch map had arrived from Wheeler the day before showing a glacier [East Rongbuk Glacier] of enormous dimensions running north from Everest and draining into the Rongbuk valley but it’s inaccuracies had made them discount Wheler’s conclusion too much. He showed no East ridge to the North Peak. He thought wheeler had mistaken that ridge for the N.E. Arete of Everest (which he showed S.E.). He had little hope it would be of service to them. It could only be so if it drained on to the Rongbuk valley as Bullock thought probable. Either Wheeler must be right or the North Col was lower than they thought and the cwm high enough to push its glacier near it. They agreed he would descend to the north to see if there was a glacier in that direction.

17 August Gives three causes of the failure of rations supply.

Brief Summary
Diary entry written on 4 May in which he describes recent events on board the S.S. Sardinia on the voyage from England to India. On 20 April they reached Port Said and travelled along the Suez Canal before entering the Red Sea and sailing towards India.

Detailed Summary
The Suez Canal was perfectly smooth which was a pleasant change after the boisterness Mediterranean. He was surprised to see ships prouder than them including a Japanese battleship. At Port Said the quayside was very smart and more like a sea-front than the sort of place where vessels were tied up in an English port with it’s background of warehouses. The scene was gay and impressive but did not make his heart rejoice. A few Egyptian men had a very graceful way of rowing - they stood up in the boat and faced the bows. He had spent two hours onshore at Port Said.

He had imagined the Suez Canal to be very big, about as wide as the Thames at Westminster, with a continuous stream of great ships moving in either direction, all under a blazing hot sun and deep blue sky between unbroken banks of yellow sand. But the canal wasn't very wide and there was a dull, almost grey atmosphere on the day they went through. He describes the housing along the banks of the Canal, as well as the landscape and towing path.

There were reminders of the recent war with a vast quantity of war material collected together in a camp which stretched several miles along the bank. There were signs of activity but the whole appearance of the vast dump was indescribably desolate.

He had been warned about the heat in the Red Sea. The weather was humid, the sky was overcast and the atmosphere very moist. He was surprised by the lowering and gloomy aspect of the clouds which the Captain said contained sand which was often blown to a great height and they were leaving a sand storm behind them which was a fortunate escape.

He could see small islands which rose very abruptly from the water. Their geological origin must be volcanic, they were very bare and rocky.

They spent three hours in Aden. The people there wore fewer clothes, especially the little boys of whom a great number approached him and his companion. On the verandah of a large hotel he saw a single man pulling on a rope which worked a ‘punkah’ [a series of rectangular sails about 4 ft x 2 ft hanging from a frame] with a flapping motion. It was a pleasure to walk a mile or so on land.

On entering the Indian Ocean the change was immediately perceptible. There was a long gentle swell and for six days the ship was heaving. The heat was mild as they approached Ceylon.

He saw monsoon clouds for the first time and expected bad weather. What particularly interested him in observing these clouds was the effect of the immense size in the whole arch of the sky which he compared to the Fenlands in England. The sky in the Indian Ocean was vaster than any he had seen at home.

They entered the harbour of Colombo which, unlike Port Said had an air of modesty. Long low red and yellow houses could be seen through the trees. Colombo, looked at from the harbour, was like a town that happened in a forest and from the inside it looked like a town lying in a garden.

He could see forests which were were moist and brilliant green. The various palm trees which predominated were garden rather than forest trees. He describes the trees, shrubs, and flowers he’s observed, mentioning Poinciana Regina, which flowered very freely with a cluster of brilliant scarlet blossoms, the temple tree, and a hibiscus, which was used as everybody’s garden hedge and had a large scarlet like flower. Many trees had red or yellow blooms and the air was laden with their heavy scent.

He spent an enjoyable time in Colombo with Captain Forbes. They met an acquaintance of Captain Forbes and drank brandy and ginger ale together before being joined by another Englishman.

He took a car to Mount Lavinia which was a moving experience as that was the first time he had seen the East.

He will write more about the East in another chapter. The S.S. Sardinia had to hurry up and get to Calcutta. No more economy of coal. Tomorrow they should be in Madras and on the 10th in Calcutta - five days sooner than the Captain estimated.

The diary entry ends as they were steaming up to the Bay of Bengal.

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Black and white team photograph for the 1904-05 academic year. Names on the board read:

E.H. Hincks, S.K. Sawday, C. Monson, J.M. Hall, H. MacMichael, J.H. Roberts, W.R. Lucas, N.M. Fergusson (Captain), A. V. Poyser, F.A. Stockdale, C.B. Brown.

Black and white group photograph.

Names on the board read:
G. G. Ellis (bow), P. A. Stenger, W. Addis, F. J. Ybarra, C. M. Hazard, A. D. Firth, E. J. Carter, J. H. Carver (stroke), C. D. Pegge (cox)

Two black and white framed photographs with a miniature oar at the bottom.
Top photograph shows the crew on the last day of the Lent Races with the flag behind the cox.
Bottom photograph shows the crew and cox standing on the bank holding their blades upright.
A news paper cutting of an article gives an account of the first day of races.

Black and white group photograph.

Names on the board read:
T. W. Eyre (bow), H. W. S. Gray, E. A. Copeman, S. B. Welch, P. S. Allfrey, R. B. Frederick, E. G. B. Palmer (captain), C. Hartley (stroke), J. B. Luckham (cox).

Letter to Captain [J. P.] Farrar [copied by Ruth from George's original letter]

Everest was a colossal rock peak plastered with snow with faces as steep as he had ever seen.

He and Bullock were at 1st Advanced Base Camp and he describes the North ridge, the glacier and the slopes of the first peak beyond the col which were impossibly steep. He describes the west side of the cwm, and the difficulty in reading his and Bullock’s aneroid heights, giving a reading of 18,650 ft. He thinks the face of the mountain may be completely unassailable.

He describes the summit as rock at a moderately easy angle, and further details possible access points from different directions. He had the dimmest hope of reaching the top, but they would proceed as though they meant to get there.

He estimates his own fitness as well as that of Morshead, Bullock and others. They couldn't pretend they can go on as they did in the Alps. He had found the descents difficult and had been forced to adopt a deep breathing system going down as well as up. Any exertion beyond an even, balanced pace demanded more of one’s organs than they were inclined to give. Wondered how well they could acclimate at elevation. Sets out the plans for the following day and describes the sight of the glacier.

[Letter seems to end abruptly. There may have been another page which is not in the Archive]

Letter from George Mallory to David Cranage from Yatung, Tibet

Full Transcript

My dear Cranage,

I often cast a backward thought to Syndicate Buildings & wonder how you are progressing with arrangements for the Michaelmas Term & for the Summer Meeting. Before long I expect you will be planning a holiday, & I want you to feel quite certain about me; - it is going to be very difficult to get back for the beginning of the Summer Meeting because the Everest Committee took a return ticket for me by the City Line & I discover that their boats are very slow. However one way or another I will get back before the end of August, so that you won’t need to have any qualms about arranging to go away on the 20th or 21st.

Yatung in the Chumbi Valley is our first station in Tibet, and as arrangements have to be made with the trade agent here we have a day’s rest from marching. It is a curious interlude, between the steep sub-tropical forests of Sikkim & the tableland of Tibet; this is more like an Alpine valley; its sides are more or less covered with conifers which are showing spring green: two marches hence at Phari where we get up onto the high land above 14,000 ft there will not be a tree or a bush or a blade of any green thing to be seen; & we are not particularly pleased to hear that a few days ago 2 ½ ft of snow fell up there.

The past week as you may imagine has been enjoyable enough. After the confinement of the voyage & the dust & heat of the journey across India, & the tiresomeness of packing & ‘getting off’ from Darjeeling the real thing has begun; & the best of it is a very nice lot of companions. It is a very strong party this time & I’m glad to say I feel fitter than I was two years ago.

Noel, our photographer, was asking me today about lecturing on the expedition & I told him what he had arranged – that an occasional Saturday evening during term was the only chance at any distance for me to lecture outside our own centres & that I should want to combine a lecture of that sort with one at a centre; and then ten days at the beginning of January. The reason I revert to this now is that you will probably hear shortly from Christy asking which of our centres you want to reserve for me & in which other members of the Expedition may be free to lecture; & he will want to know whether I shall be lecturing for him or for the centres in January – but I daresay that ca wait until I return. I told Christy, by the way, that he would have to find out my engagements from Richford, so he may write to him.

Please give my salaams to Williams & Sewell & remember me also to Richford & Green. And can you give me news of Parry – he seemed so seedy when I left. I hope your knee is quite better long ago & that you & Mrs Cranage are both flourishing. All good wishes to you.

Yours ever,
George Mallory

Letter to Marjorie Turner [his sister-in-law], from Kharta

Thanks her for her jolly letter which she had written on 17 May and which he had received on 27 June. He was in lovely countryside walking with the General and Geoffrey Bruce and Norton when he received it. The last ten days had been a pleasure trip with collecting as an excuse. It had been a good time but the rain had spoilt the best plans. He describes the countryside and flowers including a white primula he had found which he hoped they could bring back and name after him.

Replies to the contents of her letter. He was looking forward to getting back to England at the end of August. He planned to go to Westbrook to eat fruit. Doesn't think he would collect much more on his way back but that day he had got a fine Tibetan fox-skin for Ruth although she would probably say she couldn't wear it. Hoped he would find waiting for him in Darjeeling some small square Tibetan mats for chairs.

Letter to Rupert Thompson, written from 2nd Advanced Camp, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Thanks Rupert for helping with Franz. He thinks Rupert may be able to tell him why he embarked on this adventure. Describes the scene in his tent as he and Bullock wrote letters. Sometimes thought that the expedition was a fraud invented by the wild enthusiasm of one man - Younghusband – puffed up by the would be wisdom of certain pundits in the A.C. [Alpine Club] and imposed on the youthful ardour of himself.

He describes a precipice nearly 10,000 ft high and the prospect of an ascent in any direction was almost nil. He had to endure the discomforts of a camp at 19,000 ft and had trouble understanding the porters. He looked forward to his return home.

He planned to start at dawn with 250 ft of rope ready to slide down on the side of a great ice pinnacle. He had his compass, glasses, aneroid, alarm watch, and bed socks. He hoped the snow was a passing shower and that the peaks would be clear and glorious in the morning.

He wishes Rupert and David [Pye?], love and good stomachs for strange diets. Asks him to breathe a prayer of goog luck for them as they planned the great assault.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

It was a wonderful that she loved him and wanted to know him and that his letters had meaning to her.

She mustn’t depend too much on him as he might affect her growth and she his. There must be separate individual growths. He was not perfect and didn't wish to be because it would be very dull. She was so disturbing to his balance that he didn't now whether he was on his head or his heels.

He was reading Clutton-Brock’s book on William Morris whom he admired. Morris was the foundation of all their present revolt against the heritage of Victorian ugliness. He had also read two new sonnets by Keats which expressed exactly his own feeling. That was what the great poets did for us.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School on headed notepaper [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had written to his mother but did not understand her reply until Mary [his sister] explained to him that it was usual for a bride-groom’s parents to provide house linen. He had slept out the previous night and felt glorious and now had to prepare his history lessons.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

14 May - Had done very little pining as he wanted to keep all thoughts of her to be a positive experience. Spent the morning in school, teaching King Lear and Carlyle, who was a bore, and Heroes and Hero-Worship which would be a good book if it were shorter. Had finished teaching Cromwell much to his relief.

He wouldn't think about talking to his friends about the things he writes to her about. Had spent the afternoon chaperoning students on the river towards Somerset Bridge and was due to have a pupil at 9:15.

15 May - The weather was nice and he wished she was there. The weather wouldn't be nice with her as she was in Ireland. Hopes she has been sick on the boat as when he is sick it does him good. He had to see Rendall about an entrance English paper and asks if Ruth's father knows Rendall.