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Copies of letters and telegrams of condolence sent to the Everest Committee from various Mountaineering Associations and Committees, forwarded by Arthur Hinks to Ruth Mallory.

Brief Summary
Diary entry written on 4 May in which he describes recent events on board the S.S. Sardinia on the voyage from England to India. On 20 April they reached Port Said and travelled along the Suez Canal before entering the Red Sea and sailing towards India.

Detailed Summary
The Suez Canal was perfectly smooth which was a pleasant change after the boisterness Mediterranean. He was surprised to see ships prouder than them including a Japanese battleship. At Port Said the quayside was very smart and more like a sea-front than the sort of place where vessels were tied up in an English port with it’s background of warehouses. The scene was gay and impressive but did not make his heart rejoice. A few Egyptian men had a very graceful way of rowing - they stood up in the boat and faced the bows. He had spent two hours onshore at Port Said.

He had imagined the Suez Canal to be very big, about as wide as the Thames at Westminster, with a continuous stream of great ships moving in either direction, all under a blazing hot sun and deep blue sky between unbroken banks of yellow sand. But the canal wasn't very wide and there was a dull, almost grey atmosphere on the day they went through. He describes the housing along the banks of the Canal, as well as the landscape and towing path.

There were reminders of the recent war with a vast quantity of war material collected together in a camp which stretched several miles along the bank. There were signs of activity but the whole appearance of the vast dump was indescribably desolate.

He had been warned about the heat in the Red Sea. The weather was humid, the sky was overcast and the atmosphere very moist. He was surprised by the lowering and gloomy aspect of the clouds which the Captain said contained sand which was often blown to a great height and they were leaving a sand storm behind them which was a fortunate escape.

He could see small islands which rose very abruptly from the water. Their geological origin must be volcanic, they were very bare and rocky.

They spent three hours in Aden. The people there wore fewer clothes, especially the little boys of whom a great number approached him and his companion. On the verandah of a large hotel he saw a single man pulling on a rope which worked a ‘punkah’ [a series of rectangular sails about 4 ft x 2 ft hanging from a frame] with a flapping motion. It was a pleasure to walk a mile or so on land.

On entering the Indian Ocean the change was immediately perceptible. There was a long gentle swell and for six days the ship was heaving. The heat was mild as they approached Ceylon.

He saw monsoon clouds for the first time and expected bad weather. What particularly interested him in observing these clouds was the effect of the immense size in the whole arch of the sky which he compared to the Fenlands in England. The sky in the Indian Ocean was vaster than any he had seen at home.

They entered the harbour of Colombo which, unlike Port Said had an air of modesty. Long low red and yellow houses could be seen through the trees. Colombo, looked at from the harbour, was like a town that happened in a forest and from the inside it looked like a town lying in a garden.

He could see forests which were were moist and brilliant green. The various palm trees which predominated were garden rather than forest trees. He describes the trees, shrubs, and flowers he’s observed, mentioning Poinciana Regina, which flowered very freely with a cluster of brilliant scarlet blossoms, the temple tree, and a hibiscus, which was used as everybody’s garden hedge and had a large scarlet like flower. Many trees had red or yellow blooms and the air was laden with their heavy scent.

He spent an enjoyable time in Colombo with Captain Forbes. They met an acquaintance of Captain Forbes and drank brandy and ginger ale together before being joined by another Englishman.

He took a car to Mount Lavinia which was a moving experience as that was the first time he had seen the East.

He will write more about the East in another chapter. The S.S. Sardinia had to hurry up and get to Calcutta. No more economy of coal. Tomorrow they should be in Madras and on the 10th in Calcutta - five days sooner than the Captain estimated.

The diary entry ends as they were steaming up to the Bay of Bengal.

Pages from George Mallory's Diary, 9, 13, 15 April 1921, onboard the ship Sardine U A

Brief Summary
Covers daily life on board ship.

Detailed Summary

9 April - 13 times round the ship added up to 1 mile. Complains about other passengers and thanked god that he was alone in his cabin. Asks her not to send this page to anyone.

13 April - It was cold and they were passing Cape St. Vincent. He describes the deck, first class with only a third of the ship being reserved for first class folk, the smoking room [and bar], saloon, double staircase leading up from the dining room, and an upright piano. The smoking room had better company and he was most usually to be found there. His cabin was an escape from the windswept decks and fellow passengers. He describes the morning routine of the boat and what annoyed him, a nocturnal noise the boat made and it’s unchangingness despite the sea conditions. His cabin was his nest but wasn't a soothing place for sleep and compares it to his time in France [during the First World War]. His cabin was at its best in the afternoon when the passage was deserted and he could find a little peace.

15 April - He had found another retreat in the bows which was a part of the ship separate from the first class quarters. He desciribes the people that inhabited that space and how the place of the anchors could be used as a clothes line. Didn't like washed garments being publicly aired. The bows are a good place to sit where he could be alone. He describes approaching Cape St. Vincent and passing Gibraltar. The Mediterranean was like entering a world of pleasure. Saw Spain through clouds and had seen the African coast. Was surprised to be able to see snow mountains [the Atlas Mountains]. Thought they were off the coast of Tunis but would soon be out of sight of all land. Tomorrow they woudl be in Malta.

Letter to Marjorie Turner [his sister-in-law], from Kharta

Thanks her for her jolly letter which she had written on 17 May and which he had received on 27 June. He was in lovely countryside walking with the General and Geoffrey Bruce and Norton when he received it. The last ten days had been a pleasure trip with collecting as an excuse. It had been a good time but the rain had spoilt the best plans. He describes the countryside and flowers including a white primula he had found which he hoped they could bring back and name after him.

Replies to the contents of her letter. He was looking forward to getting back to England at the end of August. He planned to go to Westbrook to eat fruit. Doesn't think he would collect much more on his way back but that day he had got a fine Tibetan fox-skin for Ruth although she would probably say she couldn't wear it. Hoped he would find waiting for him in Darjeeling some small square Tibetan mats for chairs.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

It was a wonderful that she loved him and wanted to know him and that his letters had meaning to her.

She mustn’t depend too much on him as he might affect her growth and she his. There must be separate individual growths. He was not perfect and didn't wish to be because it would be very dull. She was so disturbing to his balance that he didn't now whether he was on his head or his heels.

He was reading Clutton-Brock’s book on William Morris whom he admired. Morris was the foundation of all their present revolt against the heritage of Victorian ugliness. He had also read two new sonnets by Keats which expressed exactly his own feeling. That was what the great poets did for us.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School on headed notepaper [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had written to his mother but did not understand her reply until Mary [his sister] explained to him that it was usual for a bride-groom’s parents to provide house linen. He had slept out the previous night and felt glorious and now had to prepare his history lessons.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

14 May - Had done very little pining as he wanted to keep all thoughts of her to be a positive experience. Spent the morning in school, teaching King Lear and Carlyle, who was a bore, and Heroes and Hero-Worship which would be a good book if it were shorter. Had finished teaching Cromwell much to his relief.

He wouldn't think about talking to his friends about the things he writes to her about. Had spent the afternoon chaperoning students on the river towards Somerset Bridge and was due to have a pupil at 9:15.

15 May - The weather was nice and he wished she was there. The weather wouldn't be nice with her as she was in Ireland. Hopes she has been sick on the boat as when he is sick it does him good. He had to see Rendall about an entrance English paper and asks if Ruth's father knows Rendall.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

She must be in another continent at least as he had not yet received a letter from her.

His Form were dong a paper on the First Act of King Lear. He had been to a tennis party and dinner party at the Headmaster's House where Mrs Fletcher [wife of the Headmaster] had referred to Ruth as very pretty. Mrs Fletcher had asked about their arrangements for the future and what colour their rooms would be. Suggests they should be high toned and have an emerald, sapphire or amethyst room; or be romantic and have a room like Monte Cristo’s cave; or like the bottom of the sea; or, should he take Orders and adopt mid Victorian culture?

Had been to a dinner party at Prior’s Field with the Clutton-Brocks. Sets out his plans for the weekend.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was delighted her letter had arrived. The country sounded lovely and he wished he could walk the hills with her. Glad she loved the hills and was interested in Whymper’s ‘Scrambles’. They ought to have a proper climbing season that year in the Alps.

Had spent the morning altering the second four lines of the sonnet he was writing [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/2] and gives her instructions on the metre and how best to read it. He hopes she will like it. He had been correcting Shakespeare papers and was behind with his correspondence. He had an aversion to the military and would like to discuss the subject more with her. He was a doubter in life with enough firm views for a firm foundation but liked to think and change his mind. Mary's [his sister] man Ralph Brooke was an instructor at Woolwich, and therefore both a school-master and a solider.

She wouldn't be lonely now she had the sonnet. He adds to the letter the next day asking her to date her letters.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Teases her about misspelling the word 'glacier' [Ruth had dyslexia]. Misses and loves her. Is frightened when she says their life will be perfect together and warns her to expect downs as well as ups but thinks it will turn out at least as good or even better than she imagines.

Would send her a letter from his mother and asks her opinion. He describes the previous day when he had been walking with Hilton Young [Geoffrey Young’s brother]. They had met another Cambridge friend was was now a doctor and a man he knew slightly. His friends were nicer now than when they were at Cambridge. Puts it down to having a job. He lunched with the Clutton-Brocks and played cricket with the boys.

He was behind with work and worried about the Shakespeare papers which he had been correcting - the boys didn’t appreciate Cordelia. They didn't have the necessary emotional experience. He wanted to write an article about Cromwell. Clutton-Brock had given him his book about William Morris which he would read and send on.

He had received a cheque for £100 as a wedding present. It was a serious annoyance to him that she was rich and he was poor.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had started the letter once already ragging her for not writing [he had not received a letter that day] but had torn it up as he was afraid she would take it too seriously. He assumes there was no Sunday post. His sister Mary and Ralph Brooke were in the room talking and it was distracting him. Ralph had played in a cricket match against the school and made a century. Would she like him to be a hero like that? Mary and Ralph were talking about their wedding service plans and about cricket.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had no pupil that evening. The boys were being taught to fight on the other side of the pergola so it wasn't quiet. Agrees that other people seemed dull and it was all wrong and annoying but it would all be alright once they are married.

His day had started with a pupil before breakfast followed by two hours in school. One class contained some exceptionally irritating people and he was quite annoyed. He had a more enjoyable afternoon teaching history to his form and then English with the smallest boys. He had read poetry with them and they seemed enchanted. He was in quite a good humour.

He hadn't known how important her letters would become to him. He had found a photograph of himself taken in Wales which he hoped was agreeable. He provides an address for Avie [his sister Annie Victoria known as Avie]. He was delighted with a map Ruth had sent as it made him think of her in beautiful surroundings. He hoped she would get up the mountain and warned her not to be deceived by Whymper as things had changed a lot since his day [late 1800s]. They knew much more now and climbed much better.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had spent a very lazy morning talking with Lytton [Lytton Strachey, a friend of Mallory’s who was staying with him at Charterhouse], reading poetry, particularly The Menage of the March Wind by William Morris. He was visited by Alan Goodfellow who had been ill and stayed to talk during Chapel [he had climbed with Mallory in the Lakes the previous year]. Breakfast and lunch were trying as Lytton didn't like boys. He was very shy because he talked in a falsetto voice. In this sort of company he would say very little and yet look very striking. He was a man you couldn't ignore.

Ruth’s life didn't sound all joy and he hoped the fishermen appreciated how good she was [Ruth and her sisters Marjorie and Mildred spent much of the time rowing the men in the party including their Uncles Lawrence and Hawes out onto the Lochs to fish]. She had a dangerously unselfish disposition but she wouldn't spend her life doing little jobs for him.

Time was a rude limitation on their existence and they would have to find more of it by being more organised. It was only a week and a half until they would see each other.

Postscript - asks if they can make a new vocabulary of love words.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was longing to be with her. What was the use of writing about the little things he had done and thought when one thing was so much greater than the rest.

[Letter is continued later that day] - He had spent a glorious evening in her canoe with two boys and had a successful picnic. He describes the different garden flowers he had seen. Asks her where they should meet the following Wednesday. Upcoming week would be spent correcting the English papers of scholarship candidates and seeing pupils. His mother wanted them to visit her in Birkenhead, and that she was delighted with his letter. He hoped she got up that mountain on Saturday.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He was concerned about where they would live mentioning two places that they had considered but were no longer possible. They would get a house somehow and he wanted her all to myself next holiday.

He had been back to Westbrook [Ruth’s family home which was close to Charterhouse] as they had left the hook behind [see: PP/GM/1/1/1914/13]. She was very much in the air and he had picked some flowers. He was due to dine at Brooke Hall with his guest Mr Becker [a former music master], and feared he would have to play Bridge.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Regrets that she did not receive his long letter sent on Saturday. He was glad she went on her walk. Compared her 10 hour climb to a 15 hour climb in the Alps.

Explained what he meant when he said she was true.

The following day would be busy as he would have to take another master’s English class and still had scholarship papers to mark.

He ought to go to Mary's wedding [his sister] but it could be difficult leaving school. There was bad news in relation to a prospective house and hoped something else would turn up.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Asks if she had received Sunday's letter [24 May] as well as Saturday’s letter [23 May]. Expected her letter to be in the humblest vein or even remorse that she had thought he could be anything but the most virtuous and punctual of correspondents.

Supposes it’s the walk that made her feel jiggish, skippish, skittish, spriggish, snappish and frolicsome and not his beautiful long letter which was the longest he'd ever written. The real worry about her being in Ireland was that it took so long to get an answer and they often seemed to have the same thoughts.

Discusses plans for meeting on Wednesday. He planned to go to Oxford for the weekend and asks her to send her letter to him on Saturday c/o F. Urquhart, Balliol College. He spent the afternoon with some boys at the Jenkinsons’ but could not play with them as he had a bad toe.

She shouldn't begin worrying about what she could or could not say to him.

The weather was changing and he was looking forward to visiting Oxford which was the most beautiful place of it’s kind. His mother was very keen for them both to visit. Wishes he had her help choosing Mary’s wedding present. Must attend a meeting at the Headmasters [Frank Fletcher] to elect the Junior Scholars.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Balliol College, Oxford [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had been in Oxford where the book shops were the best in the world. This would be the last letter before her journey to see him and he longed for Wednesday.

Letter to Ruth Turner [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

An affectionate letter looking forward to their meeting on Wednesday which filled him with delight.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had received a lovely long letter from her and was sorry she had hurt her hand and was not in very good health. He had a bad toe which caused him to limp. Discusses possible houses they could take and plans for the rooms asking if they were to have a piano. Arthur Benson had written to ask what he should give as a wedding present and asks what he should give as an answer - a Persian rug or a bath towel?

Letter to Ruth Mallory from 'Gnatong’

He had been stupefied by a cold and the repetition of last’s year’s march was not as exciting as the new sensation of seeing Sikkim. The landscape was disappointing and not at its best as no rain had yet fallen, the sense of bursting growth was absent. The previous day should have been the day of rhododendrons but only a few of the lower ones were out and the magnolias were disappointing as there were only white ones. However it was an enjoyable journey and everyone was cheerful and happy, particularly General Bruce. It was exhilarating to feel the high clean air again and to sleep above 12,000 ft and except for some cold and cough lingering he felt fit enough. Longstaff wasn’t fit yesterday and had a bad headache.

He kept company with Noel, who was filming and taking photographs and who was very pleased with a film of him bathing.

The air was quite clear as they were above the valley haze. He planned to start early the next day and get up a peak and see what should be an amazing view of the Sikkim mountains, Kangchenjunga.

He thinks of her and home and wishes they could meet once a month so he could hear her tell him about everything.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass

He was writing on Saturday and would be leaving on the following Monday to spend one night with Avie. They made a new climb on the west peak of Lliwedd under his lead which had some very good bits. H. V. R. [Herbert Reade] couldn’t manage a bit near the bottom without help. Climbing had just enough competition about it for the leader to enjoy such a moment. Wasn’t too wet during the climb but at that moment the wind was raging with savage gusts. Rain was coming down at intervals in torrents.

Her letter didn’t mention her health so he supposed she was better. Thought her idea to move in with Aunt Pattie was excellent. Apologises for forgetting to post his last letter to her in Chester so it would arrive later than intended.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

He had got to bed at 3.30am and slept until 11.30am. Had been feeling feeble but was much better today. Disappointed to still have heard nothing [about his return home]. Had not been writing over the last few days wilst he had the flu or whatever it was. Had to give a lecture on ‘Civics’ so would have to think of something to say as the Colonel and some other officers would be there.

Was sorry the return to the Holt had been delayed and supposed it was because of Owen’s flu.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Saturday'

Full Transcript
This mere note to precede a very long letter I am in the course of writing in reply to two beautiful letters from you. We are depressed on this bit of the front. Nevertheless a fair number of prisoners drift by. We have been very busy. I am rather tired but very well. Great love to you dearest from your loving George.

Dispatch rider just off. A few moments more. I am sitting on the roadside other officers gazing at prisoners 100 yards off through glasses. ‘A damned seedy looking lot those!’ says Glen. The air is full of jars. Not much doing this evening. We are disgusted at not being allowed to fire more rds [rounds]. I hope the show has gone well elsewhere. The din this morning was terrific. I’m feeling tremendously excited – but I fear we shan’t go forward as soon as we hoped. The weather is v. fine which ought to help matters. It is extraordinary how little shelling the enemy has done here. All the damage to our men on this bit of front done by machine guns. Here goes my love again. Congratulate Mildred and Robert from me.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on the first day of the Battle of the Somme. 'Saturday July 1 12.30am'

Discusses his views on religion and what should happen to Clare’s religious upbringing if he should be killed.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kharta'.

Brief Summary
Describes flowers seen by him and Norton. Comments on a copy of the Everest book which he had received.

Detailed Summary
Had received two letters from her. Correspondence had been more difficult this year.

Had found two new white primulas. Describes the scene of his discovery in detail which was so beautiful he nearly fell down and wept. Detailed description of the flower. Hoped the seedlings they were bringing back would survive. Had also found another flower which was a much more starry flower. The flowers had been wonderful over the last few days. He and Norton had explored a side valley going down to the Arun. They had the loveliest of walks, trees, shrubs, and all were at their best in broken sunlight and showers - perhaps the best of all that blue-purple iris blooming freely in patches the size of our garden.

Had received a copy of the Everest book but was bored with having to find a place for it in his baggage. Thought it was well got up and looked the money but was disappointed with the reproductions. Was amused to find that the Morning Post was his most favourable reviewer. Thought the other reviews she had sent were remarkably dull, but the Times seemed pretty favourable.

They were to start back the day after to-morrow. He didn't expect to be able to catch a boat before 5th August and would probably save money by sailing right on to London. Younghusband had written to him and had said about the book, ’ ‘Yours was a splendid contribution and I am glad I resisted efforts to have it broken up and subdivided . Wonders whose wanted to subdivide the book and wondered if it was Howard-Bury out of jealousy.

Had received a letter from Edith Stopford and mentions the political situaion in Ireland. Wonders if it’s possible for civil war to be avoided. Edith said everyone expected it be and no one seemed much concerned.

He was very glad she has been to London. Asks her to congratulate Ursula on her concert.

Letter to Ruth Mallory

Brief Summary
Most of the party was ill or injured with frostbite. Feeling in the camp was more discontented. He, Finch and Somervell were contemplating a third summit attempt. Thought Finch would annoy him. Opinion on what went wrong with 2nd attempt. Weather was worsening. If they did make a 3rd attempt he would be delayed in coming home.

Detailed Summary

Wishes he could be enjoying the first blush of early summer with her. Has been re-reading her letters and says her time in Wales sounds full of enjoyment and so unlike this. The North Col was a wonderful place for a camp as it was sheltered from the west wind behind great battlements of ice.

He finds a difficulty in writing to her because she will have heard of events that have not yet happened before she receives his story. She will know the results of their final attempt, which they will begin tomorrow or the next day. Despite mixed feelings about another venture it would have been unbearable for him to be left out. Until yesterday morning he felt there was no chance of going up. Longstaff felt they were all ill since they came down and strongly believed the Expedition had done enough and had better shut up shop. Longstaff reported him medically unfit due to his finger and his heart. However, Wakefield had made a careful examination yesterday and pronounced his heart perfectly sound and he trusted his judgement. He did risk getting a worse frostbite by going up again but felt the game was worth a finger and he would take care.

Norton had not been fit since they came down [from 1st summit attempt] and there was no question of his going up again. For Wakefield and Crawford the limit was the North Col and Geoffrey Bruce’s feet would require a month to recover. Only Finch, Somervell, and himself were left. Finch appeared done when he came down in spite of the liberal use of oxygen, but was fit enough. He was afraid Finch would get on his nerves a lot before they were done, but hoped they would manage the climb without serious friction [anticipating 3rd attempt in 1922].

The weather was getting steadily worse which would settle the affair. It seemed much windier than last year. He feared getting caught on the ridge in a bad gale. Finch and Bruce had made a strong effort on the last day but in some ways managed very badly. Assessing the 2nd summit attempt he felt it was an initial mistake to go to a fresh camp at 25,500 ft instead of moving to the one they had established and they had put it on the wrong side of the ridge exposed to the wind. By some mismanagement there was a shortage of supplies both at the North Col and 25,500 ft. Porters were sent up from the North Col at 4 pm and they did well to get back there at 11 pm. The idea of porters wondering about up there in the dark with none of us to look after them filled him with horror. The story of the Gurkha orderly was pretty bad too. The plan was to take him on from 25,500 ft carrying 6 cylinders of oxygen for 1,000 ft of 1,500 ft by which time it was supposed he would be exhausted. He was to then sent down by himself drinking oxygen from one cylinder. Finch seemed to have a different standard of caring for the porters than him. He was determined they would run no risks with their lives during the next venture.

The new attempt would impact plan for his return journey. Strutt, Longstaff, and Morshead would be going back to Darjeeling as soon as animals arrive, in 4 or 5 days. Norton and General Bruce would be going over to Kharta at the same time (he was to have gone with them). The main body would follow to Kharta after they had finished with the mountain. He would aim at catching the Treista boat from Bombay on 1 August but she wasn’t to count on that.

[Continues later] - He had escaped from the camp to write the letter. In the past 3 or 4 days it had seemed to be a less serene, rather a discontented place. Morshead suffered from his fingers continually and he [Mallory] feared he would lose the first joint of six of them. He bore it well but was not a cheerful figure. Norton was even more depressed. Strutt was more than usually full of curses. Crawford and Wakefield who were last down from the mountain were not very pleased with the prospect of going up again so soon. Longstaff was far from well with indigestion and sleeplessness and was at present in one of his moods of bustling activity, when he became tiresome, interfering, and self-important. The General, who had been tied to camp almost the whole time by a sore foot, showed a better temper than anyone. Bruce and Strutt both hated the wind and they had had no more than one windless hour.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 1 1917'

He didn’t have time to write to her yesterday as he had to go to a meeting of intelligence officers and then a walk with the Colonel. Describes a visit to his old battery where he saw Wood and Glen who was in charge whilst Lithgow was at home on special leave. They wanted him to return to them once his current posting was finished. He would be very happy to return to them. He didn’t have great hopes about the staff job and wouldn’t set his heart on it.

Had received lots of letters from her. Was glad she liked his literary notebook idea and was glad to hear news about Clare. When he came home he would like to find her waiting for him at the Holt. They would walk out into the Loggia and stroll about their small domain looking at the plants and then go up to the nursery.

Describes what flowers and plants were out in the woods and asks what was out at home. Thinks they may start fighting again before the Spring. He had motored over to a village to put a marble plaque on a grave at the request of the Captain when he was with the French. Describes the decorations on the graves.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme

Describes the damage done by a deluge of rain to the dugouts and efforts to make repairs and improvements. Now had a stove which gave him hope of eventual dryness.

Last night he visited Platnauer again and stayed until midnight talking about poetry which was a great pleasure. Platnauer was a passionate admirer of Rupert Brooke and he brought away two volumes to read carefully.

Up in good time that morning and firing began at 7am. Endless difficulties because the trail buried itself in the mud after about 10 rounds and it required 40 men to pull her out. Weather was misty and warm so hope for more work as he was tired of waiting. The last three weeks had spoilt everything on this front and sown how difficult it would be to get on during the winter. Was his turn to go to the O. P. [observation post] the next day which would mean spending half a day up to his knees or thighs in mud.

Asks her to send his climbing boots which would be useful in the conditions. No news of leave.