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Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Been inoculated against typhoid so couldn't do exercise. Discusses book by Baudouin. Refers to Ghandi's arrest and strikes.

Detailed Summary
Nearing end of voyage and he had rather enjoyed myself. He had been rising early and sitting alone in the early sun. He was inoculated against typhoid two days ago and so was debarred from such activities as Max Mullers, ‘My System’, skipping and running because they were too painful. He was wearing the old khaki silk shirt she gave him and mended the other day, my shorts, and a pair of gym shoes.

Wants more seasoned silence and collected meditation. Gives a detailed criticism of Baudouin’s book, discussing the law of reversed effort and its potential application to children. He was going to send her the book and suggests she carefully read the part about the practices of auto-suggestion and suggests they practice this with Clare [daughter] to help with her little troubles of competitiveness with other children. Was also sending her back The Revision of the Peace Treaty which was well worth reading - one could skip some of the figures.

He expected to be in Bombay the next morning and refers to Ghandi’s arrest. They had heard in Aden of a general strike on the railways. He missed seeing the papers. Comments on the Curzon affair.

It had been a fortnight since he had left and he supposed the flowers were blooming in their garden at home. Asks her to report on specific plants to him and mentions Clutton-Brock and Beagly. His next letter would be from Darjeeling and should be more interesting, though he didn't expect there would be much time for writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ’95 Arlington Avenue Westmount, P.Q.’ [Letterhead] [‘i.e.at the Basil Williams Montreal’ is written in Mallory’s hand]

Brief Summary
Reports on recent lecture in New York, complains of his lectures being reported as Anti-Prohibition propaganda, and describes social visits with friends in New York and Canada.

Detailed Summary
He was delighted to be in Montreal with friends including Mrs Williams, who had visited the Holt with Evelyn Clutton-Brock whilst he was away on the 1921 expedition. His fortunes had changed from hateful N.Y. His first lecture in New York had not been encouraging with technical difficulties caused by a 2nd rate operator and the hall full theatre had been depressing. However, all the members of the American Alpine Club who had attended the dinner were in the audience and they went away saying nice things. Afterwards they had gone to a hotel to eat ices which was a pleasant little party consisting of the Wethams, Mrs Colden Sanderson, Frisken, Poel and an actress friend of his.

It was important for his lectures to have good press but when he read the papers at breakfast there was almost nothing. A New York Times had 1/3rd of a column but it was turned into Anti-Prohibition propaganda. The Tribune gave a very good and sympathetic report.

He had lectured at a Country Club outside the city which was a dull affair before catching a train to Montreal. Had a good walk up the mountain with a wonderful view of the southern branch of St Lawrence and Montreal. The countryside was all snow and ice and it had been -10 when he had arrived. The Canadians didn’t like the cold as too many days in t took it out of one.

His next lecture was in Detroit (Michigan) but Toronto fell through. Keedick’s business was very badly run. He planned to spend the weekend with a friend, Monsieur Williams, whom he had known and liked at Charterhouse at a winter sports place. He planned to learn to ski from John Williams who was aged aged 16 and thought him a promising pupil on skis. He said the difficulty was to learn to stop, and until one had you just had to fall down.

He was much more cheerful and put it down to staying there with delightful people instead of by himself in a hotel. He missed her and found it much harder being without her there than in India.

His lecture there had gone very well and the audience were very good natured and amused.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Harvard Club’ [letterhead]

Had received her letter with news of Arthur’s second operation. Comments on the conference she had attended and gives his thoughts on prayer. She is good to be anxious about the purchase of the car and asks her not to sell it before he returned home.

Sets out his future plans for lectures – Boston, a school in Massachusetts, a dinner party in his honour given by American members of the Alpine Club in Boston, lectures at the Harvard Union and in Philadelphia, with a visit to the University Museum and a club in Toledo. Hopes for more dates but he hadn’t made much money so far.

He had been staying for the weekend with a climber called Schwab and his rather depressing wife. It was cold and they had only managed an hours walk and he felt ill. Complains about his hotel rooms but he wasn’t in them much as he had many social engagements and was trying to promote his lectures.

He was much touched by what she said about the future and that she had wonderful courage.

He would write to Evelyn [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] shortly. Asks her to pass on his love to them both.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Hotel Flanders’ [Letterhead], ‘Waiting Room, Sheffield Mass’

Brief Summary
Describes his trip to the opera, compares the audience at a classical concert with an English audience, gives his opinion on American women, their conversational skills and lack of intelligence, and his time staying with the Burrs in Boston which he enjoyed.

Detailed Summary
[Starts the letter on 25th Feb in the waiting room waiting for his train] - His impressions of America were more agreeable when he wasn’t in New York. Recaps his time in New York where he had felt ill before travelling to Boston.

He had attended the opera which was reputed to be done better there than anywhere else. He imagined it was the biggest opera house holding 5,000 people and was always full with the boxes being taken for the season. Wonders how many New Yorkers went to the opera because they loved it and how many went for other reasons. The ladies pushed forward in their gorgeous dresses and diamonds and pearls and were illuminated as though they were the sight everyone had come to see. Compares the display of wealth and splendour with France in the time of Louis XIV. The orchestra was extraordinarily fine and sensitive, the singing good, the costume well done and the acting ‘quite amazingly better than anything I have seen elsewhere. Concluded the audience was really fond of music.

The atmosphere of New York was so charged with amazing contrasts it was impossible to generalise. It was vastly cosmopolitan with the German and Latin elements helping so far as music was concerned. He had been to two concerts at the Aeolian Hall. Describes how the audience reacted to Beethoven, Chopin and Liszt. Compares them with an English audience.

The most marked trait was a lack of depth with the atmosphere being sprightly and superficial. Thought the women knew extremely little and had very untrained minds although they appeared intelligent at first. The great subjects of conversation for him were Europe and the differences between England and America. It was amazing how many Americans had travelled to Europe. It was the first thing they did when they got rich enough. They were very conscious of being a new country.

Has to stop writing as the train had arrived.

[27 Feb letter continues] - Boston was being very kind to him as were Mr and Mrs Burrs in whose home he was staying. He was a member of the Alpine Club and gave a large dinner in his honour last night with nearly 40 men present at a room at the Union Club. He did not enjoy these functions, particularly when he had to speak. He was very busy seeing people who were all very pleasant and much more like the English than New Yorkers.

Asks for news of Arthur [wo had undergone a second operation]. He was enjoying bits of things, but the background was all grey. Didn’t hope to get away much before the end of March.

Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

24 May – Thinks he is good for many reasons and won’t give up being critical. Voices her opinions on the role of women’s independence in marriage. Is glad he likes Mr Clutton-Brocks’ book on William Morris. Expresses her concerns over voicing her feelings. She has finished the Alpine book. Describes a walk that led her to a mountain range called Dooish, their progress was slow as Mildred got tired. Explains the plan they had for reaching the top. Describes the scenery. Tells him of another mountain he might like to climb. Describes the journey home. Had a wonderful time telling fairy stories with Mildred and Alison.

25 May – Is sorry his last letter was so short. Describes her morning fishing with the party. She is glad he has written to his mother. There has been no news from Miss Davies. Expresses her opinions on a Russian story she is reading.

Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

Discusses her opinions on truth and reflects on growing up. She has changed her opinion of her book The Brothers Karamazov and has started reading William Morris by Mr Clutton-Brock. Expresses her desire to have Barnsley furniture in their house. Urges him to attend his sister’s wedding without her. Requests a photograph of Mary.

Asks him how his bank holiday faired. She had finished making a dress. She can't pay the butcher's bill because they have mislaid their accounts. Is expecting Mrs Brock [wife of Arthur Clutton-Brock] to bring Alan and John to tea. Discusses her book of old wives tales and asks him if he has read Wives and Daughters. She is expecting Alison the next Monday and has not heard from Trafford or Doris.

Morning - Tells him about the photographs she has received and that she will send him some prints. Informs him that six copies of his pamphlet have been sent to the Brocks via Mr Bradby at Rugby and eighteen more have been ordered. Describes her morning activities. Tells him that Bob [Major Robert Morgan, Mildred's husband] is leaving for London but Mildred will stay. Asks him to let her know which of her letters he receives, so she doesn't repeat herself.

Afternoon - Describes her afternoon plans by herself. Hopes he is happy and well. Expresses her love for him.

Describes Miss Jekyll's garden. Tells him of a feud between her father and Aunt Theodora over the cutting of some trees on Highdon's Ball. Hopes he is not staying anywhere infested with rats. Discusses what she has been reading in Vanity Fair. Is glad that he is going to tell her more details of the war. She intends to have the Clutton-Brocks over to stay. Wishes him luck with his new Battery.

Is glad she has heard from him. Describes the Clutton-Brocks garden. Discusses the possible repercussions of Lord Kitchener's death. Tells him Mr Brock intends to send him his book. Updates him on Clare's progress. She has heard about Mr Kendal from Mr Brocks regarding the headmastership. Intends to take a trip to London.

Discusses his previous letters to her and her thoughts on his location and duties. Asks him about the guns he is working with and if he will be moving locations soon. Describes a visit to the Brocks' and updates him on Clare's progress. Tells him she has spoken to a chemist about the Liverpool rat virus which will be sent on to him. Informs him of a letter from Mrs Saunders concerning the death of Mrs Pennyfather.

She has read his letter to Ralph and Mary. Discusses his duties and living conditions as described in his last letter. Expresses her opinions about the progress of the war. Describes her walk with Clare and Mary. Discusses her thoughts on the fear of Hell and the merits of good behaviour. Intends to stay to see Henrietta Livingstone. Informs him his pamphlet has been read by Mr Clutton-Brock, Mr Arthur Benson, and Mr Fletcher and gives their opinions of it. Tells him she is proud of him. Describes the maps of Armentières and the trenches she was shown by Ralph. She hopes he does not have to see dead bodies.

Morning - Describes her journey to London and tells a story about a Canadian leaving his rifle behind. Describes the women at the Women’s Land offices where Marjorie applied for farm work. Informs him Marjorie has been assigned to a farm owned by Olive’s brother and will stay for 4-6 weeks.

Afternoon – Describes her conversation with Uncle Hawes and Aunt Jessie about their visit to Ogwen Lake. Describes her activities in London; shopping at Wedgwood and Oxford Circus for clothes, tea with Mrs Reade. Describes the relationship between Mr Reade and Owen and expresses her own opinions on the matter. Intends to send Mrs Reade his letters to read. She will thank Mr Clutton-Brock for the book he sent.

7 July - She intends to write to Avie and Doris Turner. Tells him Doris had only achieved a fourth at Oxford. She has received his letter and is sorry he is having a bad time. Discusses the progress of the war and wishes for peace. Tells him how Clare has caught a cold from Mary Anne. Describes her visit to the Brocks. Discusses Mr Brock’s review of his book. Tells him she has had visits from Aunt Beatrice, Uncle Bertie, Aunt Agnes and Uncle Peter.

8 July – Tells him about her morning; Marjorie let the ferrets out resulting in an accident involving Clare falling out the pram. Discusses the progress of the war and reflects on helping at the hospitals. Informs him she will send him a cake.

Sunday 9 July - Informs him that the Clutton-Brocks are expected to tea. Tells him about the gardener leaving after sixteen years of service. Describes the man applying for the gardener position as a retired soldier with ‘shell shock’. Describes her morning activities; gardening, looking after Clare and painting china. Intends to send him pictures of Clare. Expresses her feelings about the progress of the war.

Monday 10 July – She has received his letter and reassures him they are all happy with the progress of the war. Expresses her sadness to hear that Uncle Arthur’s youngest son has been killed and her sadness at all the death.

Is reading The Ultimate Belief by Arthur Clutton-Brock and discusses her thoughts on his writing style, morality and philosophy of spirit. Discuss her opinions on religion in education. She was mistaken in telling him that Mr Thompson had been killed; it was someone else. Updates him on the progress of Mrs Irvine’s premature baby. Describes the weather. Informs him that Clare has not slept well. Intends to have Mr Cockerell and Marjorie Waterhouse to tea. She intends to do more china painting. Discusses the progress of the war.

Discusses her opinions on The Ultimate Belief by Arthur Clutton-Brock. Expresses her thoughts on the difference in education for boys and girls. Describes her previous tea with Mr Cockerell and describes his wife’s condition. Wonders what he wanted to tell her and couldn’t and discusses the progress of the war. Tells him about her dream. Is glad he received the butter and will send more. Informs him Marjorie has gone to fetch the Clutton-Brocks and their children for a visit. Relays a message of greeting to him from Mr Cockerell and Marjorie Waterhouse.

Monday 24 July - Describes her morning on waking up late and her activities for the day. Tells him she has packed up the plates and bowls she has made for Nancy Warr. Describes a trip down the river with the Cockerells. Expresses that she misses him. Discusses the characters of Mr Cockerell’s and the Brock’s children and their upbringing. Expresses her anxiety over the war. Mr Pilsbury has come to dinner.

Tuesday 25 July – Wonders how is doing. Discusses the expense of the war. Discusses her views on religion and on the application of Clutton-Brocks’s theory from his book, The Ultimate Belief, into everyday life. Marjorie is leaving for her farming work and wonders how she will get on. Tells him she is to attend Highdon’s Ball that evening. Mentions the progress of the war.

Monday 31 July - Expresses her wish to have him home and how much she misses him. Relays a conversation she had with a girl at the depot in Guildford about volunteer work. Describes the bowl she is designing. Describes the trip she had with her father and Mildred to hire a washerwoman and discusses Mildred’s reluctance to talk to poor people.

Tuesday 1 August – Tells him she came on her period and describes her morning activities. Informs him she has sent him a parcel and took tea with Mrs Trew. Discusses her ideas for the garden at the Holt. Describes her tea with Mrs Trew. Expresses her strong opinions on the conduct of Mr Allen towards his newly pregnant wife, Elenor. Discusses Shakespeare’s Hamlet and King Lear. Discusses his answer to her opinions on Mr Clutton-Brock's book. Discusses Stanley Washerman’s account of the Russian offensive.

Describes playing with Clare. Discusses the weather. Informs him that she will send him her Aldeburgh address when she arrives. Expresses her feelings about prayer and how the war has made her more grateful. Asks him if he would like book catalogues. Describes Clare’s appearance. Discusses her father and Mr Cockerell’s opinion of Mr Clutton-Brock’s book. Discusses the relationship between her father and Mr Clutton-Brock. Hopes to have their friends to stay after the war.

Describes her thoughts on remembering his face and character. Describes her morning activities. Reminisces about exploring Heddon's Mouth with him. Discusses the progress of the war. Describes meeting Dorothea Fox and her intention to visit Prior Fields. Tells him about a garden fete for the Red Cross Hospital. Expresses her wish to have visitors when she gets home. Tells him about Mrs Philip Fletcher's new baby.

Describes the weather and the garden in Godalming. Discusses the latest article from the Round Table. Updates him on Clare’s teeth. Informs him she has received his letters and discusses their contents. Discusses sending him cushions for his dug out. Asks him about Mr Bell. Tells him the Leggett’s son has been captured and is a prisoner in Germany. Describes the conversation she had with Mrs Brock and her children on the train.

Describes the weather and wonders what the weather is like in France. Describes the garden at the Holt and her plans for it. Tells him about how she carried the plants gracefully. Describes tea and conversation with Mr Clutton-Brock. Intends to have tea with the Huxleys at Euton. Discusses cutting down a tree at the Holt. Informs she has had a letter from his mother and describes its contents.

Discusses the benefits of love being enhanced by absence. Describes in detail a shopping trip with Mildred to buy Clare a birthday present. Discusses the difficulties of shops staying open during the war. Describes a conversation she had with Will Arnold Forster. Tells him she intends to make him a cake. Discusses the progress of the war.

Expresses her annoyance at him ordering a £50 book and discusses her thoughts on living within their means and saving money. Discusses her thoughts on his new location and the effectiveness of tanks in the war. Describes a trip to see Mrs Brock. Asks him about the possibility of getting leave in November.

Expresses her longing to have him home on leave. Discusses the morale of the Williams family and intends to visit them. Informs him that Violet’s mother is staying. Describes catching a goose for the Clutton-Brocks. Describes her gardening plans. Discusses the progress of the war and how and when it will end. Describes a disagreement with Violet.

Describes in detail the garden at the Holt and her plans for it. Tells him about her plans to meet Mrs Heanni. Describes Clare playing with her father. Discusses an article about Ireland from the Round Table. Tells him she has received his letters. Describes Clare’s appearance. Discusses the differences in their sense of humour. Tells him she hopes he can have debated on religion with her father in the future. Describes her father’s opinion about Mr Clutton-Brock’s book The Ultimate Belief.

Describes making a pneumonia jacket. Tells him about her morning with Mrs Brock and Constance Mussen. Describes an article from The Times read out loud by her father regarding wounded Prussian soldiers. Describes the plants she is purchasing from Miss Jekyll and Mr Clutton-Brock. Tells him she has sent his parcel and describes the contents, including pot pourri. Asks him if he wants to sell a bicycle that is in the shed. Updates him on Clare’s teeth. Expresses her wish to have him home. Discusses Mr Brock’s sermon for St Martin’s in the Field and Winchester. Discusses the price of cardboard boxes. Tells him she loves him and admires him.

Thanks him for the tie he sent her. Describes the weather and her activities that morning. Describes the plans she has for the garden. Discusses her opinions on entertaining officers and the shops in Amiens. Discusses when he might get leave. Apologises for how she spoke about Violet in her last letter. Discusses Captain Lithgow’s character and lets him know she will write to his mother. Asks him about his ankle.