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Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Trenkye [Tinki] Dzong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Responds to contents in her letters from 6-10 May mentioning the Hodges, Clare, Bridget’s son, Mary Ann and Stephen. He was feeling happier. He had been nailing the porter's boots. He had planned a two day expedition with Bullock to climb up to about 20,000 ft and see the N. E. face of Everest and had avoided telling Howard-Bury. Morshead had now joined the group. Describes a hill walk and a fragrant flower which he enclosed in the letter hoping it still had some of its scent.

He planned to take photos of the mountain range as they were now in a country which no European had previously visited. The rest of the party were quite cheerful. The food provisions were not proving expensive. Tells her not to be hopeless about the expedition as they may yet do very well. He would think of her on her birthday tomorrow.

Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

Sunday - Is glad to hear about his journey and warns him not to tell her too much information. Updates him on Clare's progress. Informs him that his pamphlets have been sent to Mr Rendall, Mr Benson, Mr Fletcher and Mr Allen.

Monday - Describes the weather and her plans for the day. Tells him she misses him and updates him on her train journey home after they said goodbye. She hopes that she might be pregnant. Expresses her wish to help the war effort. Informs him she is is going to Hazelmere.

Asks if she can have a batch of envelopes censor stamped to speed up the postal service. Describes her morning walks with Clare and Violet. Expresses her concern for the war. Tells him Ursula has visited and Mary Anne has got some new work. Describes her morning activities. Asks his opinion on her working at a hospital store to help the war effort. Is amused at his story of giving away her ticket to French children as a souvenir. Expresses her wish to go on climbing holidays with him after the war.

She has received photographs and will send six of them to his friends. Describes her activities at Birkenhead with his mother. Discusses her opinions on public and private debt. Intends to visit Nancy Warr. Hopes that he does not feel frightened. Updates him on Clare's progress. Expresses how much she misses him and what she is doing to fill her time.

She is having a nice time with his parents. Tells him that she is teaching a Sunday school class. Describes a walk to Bidstone Hill with Clare and Violet. Hops that he will receive her letters soon. Tells him of his father being called away to a dying man. Informs him that her Sunday school lesson went well. Expresses her feelings over her recent depression. Discusses her opinions on the life of a clergyman.

Describes her eventful train journey to Mobberly. Asks him how his work is going. Updates him on Clare. Tells him about her stay with Avie and describes the garden.

Tells him she is back at Birkenhead and waiting for her box to arrive. Describes how Clare is starting to play with other children. Tells him about her conversations with Harry. Hopes he is well and happy.

Discusses the progress of the war at Verdun. Describes her evenings with Ursula. Expresses her opinions on Bridget and Stephen's marriage and living arrangements. Asks his opinion on whether she should do more to help the war effort. Asks him to number his letters so she can keep track. Intends to take Clare on the bus to Aunt Patty's for tea. Tells him she misses him and is proud of him.

Explains that this is the second letter of the day written to him. Reiterates details from her previous letter. Intends to have Mary Anne, Owen, Diana and Ursula to visit at Westbrook. Expresses her anxieties about the war. Intends to visit Mary and Ralph while in London. Asks him again if he has received a cheque for £250 from his aunt's legacy. Advises him to write to her lawyers. She will forward his address to Birkenhead.

She has read his letter to Ralph and Mary. Discusses his duties and living conditions as described in his last letter. Expresses her opinions about the progress of the war. Describes her walk with Clare and Mary. Discusses her thoughts on the fear of Hell and the merits of good behaviour. Intends to stay to see Henrietta Livingstone. Informs him his pamphlet has been read by Mr Clutton-Brock, Mr Arthur Benson, and Mr Fletcher and gives their opinions of it. Tells him she is proud of him. Describes the maps of Armentières and the trenches she was shown by Ralph. She hopes he does not have to see dead bodies.

Morning - Describes her morning activities; feeding Clare, breakfast, helping Marjorie with the Church flowers. Describes dress shopping with Marjorie.

Afternoon – Informs him that Bob has been made temporary Lieutenant Colonel, earning extra money. Describes Clare playing. Describes Constance Mussen’s visit and compares her baby to Clare. Tells him she thinks Clare will make a good climber. Discusses going on a climbing holiday to Wales with Ursula and Mary Anne. Apologises for sending the potatoes before she received his letter saying don’t send them. Describes Harry’s experience of the war. Discusses the progress of the war and the opinion of Mr Powell regarding open warfare. Discusses the use of gas and a rumour of a reviving substance. Informs him Trafford has been sent to France. Expresses her wish to have a son. Asks him about his location. Tells him she loves and misses him.

Thursday 20 July - Describes her surroundings as she writes. Describes golfing with her father and Mr Raxworthy. Discusses Clare’s lack of musical talent, her progress and her education, including learning French at a young age.

Friday 21 July – Informs him she has sent his food parcels. Apologises for her carelessness with spelling. Informs him of the death of Mr Tompson, killed in action and wonders about the safety of Mr Willet. Asks him to inform her about how much danger he is in. Informs him about the premature birth of Mrs Irvine’s son. Expects a visit from Bridget. Discusses how the war has made them grow up. Is happy that he is keeping joyful.

Discusses her opinions on The Ultimate Belief by Arthur Clutton-Brock. Expresses her thoughts on the difference in education for boys and girls. Describes her previous tea with Mr Cockerell and describes his wife’s condition. Wonders what he wanted to tell her and couldn’t and discusses the progress of the war. Tells him about her dream. Is glad he received the butter and will send more. Informs him Marjorie has gone to fetch the Clutton-Brocks and their children for a visit. Relays a message of greeting to him from Mr Cockerell and Marjorie Waterhouse.

Monday 24 July - Describes her morning on waking up late and her activities for the day. Tells him she has packed up the plates and bowls she has made for Nancy Warr. Describes a trip down the river with the Cockerells. Expresses that she misses him. Discusses the characters of Mr Cockerell’s and the Brock’s children and their upbringing. Expresses her anxiety over the war. Mr Pilsbury has come to dinner.

Tuesday 25 July – Wonders how is doing. Discusses the expense of the war. Discusses her views on religion and on the application of Clutton-Brocks’s theory from his book, The Ultimate Belief, into everyday life. Marjorie is leaving for her farming work and wonders how she will get on. Tells him she is to attend Highdon’s Ball that evening. Mentions the progress of the war.

Describes playing with Clare. Discusses the weather. Informs him that she will send him her Aldeburgh address when she arrives. Expresses her feelings about prayer and how the war has made her more grateful. Asks him if he would like book catalogues. Describes Clare’s appearance. Discusses her father and Mr Cockerell’s opinion of Mr Clutton-Brock’s book. Discusses the relationship between her father and Mr Clutton-Brock. Hopes to have their friends to stay after the war.

Expresses her love for him. Discusses the progress of the war. Describes tea with Margaret Huxley and the Williams' cousins. Describes Clare's morning routine. Expresses her depression and anxiety over the war. Intends to send him grapefruits in the post. Updates him on Clare's progress. Expresses her frustration of Clare not sleeping.

Notes that she has not had a letter from him. Tells him that Mildred intends to write to him. Describes her previous evening's activities. Expresses her love for him. Describes the atmosphere in Aldeburgh. Discusses the recent air raids.

Expresses her feelings of anxiety and depression over the war. Describes her feelings over Aldeburgh and over Doris and Marjorie leaving. Discusses the progress of the war. Describes the weather. Expresses her concern for his health and tells him how she misses him. Describes Clare's physical attributes. Hopes that his dugout is not too damp.

Thanks him for telling her more about his book and asks him questions about it. Describes her dreams. Describes her activities including watching the landing and taking off of a sea plane. Expresses her thoughts about boredom and discusses the characters in his book. Updates him on Clare's progress.

Informs him she will buy his knife in London. Describes her itinerary for getting home via a stop in London. Updates him on Clare’s teeth. Describes her activities of the day before. Tells him about meeting a soldier and giving him her lunch. Discusses the progress of the war. Asks him if he likes the new paper she is writing on better [he had asked her to write on thinner paper].

Discusses the benefits of love being enhanced by absence. Describes in detail a shopping trip with Mildred to buy Clare a birthday present. Discusses the difficulties of shops staying open during the war. Describes a conversation she had with Will Arnold Forster. Tells him she intends to make him a cake. Discusses the progress of the war.

Describes making his cake. Tells him about domestic life with Violet and Clare. Describes her tea with the Huxleys. Expresses her worry over her father’s mental health. Discusses her account-keeping abilities and plans. Describes the letter she had from Polly. Informs him she has heard from Alison. Asks him about his ankle and discusses different ideas to help keep fit.

Asks him to describe the land around him. Reflects on their letters to each other. Informs him she is waiting news of Ursula’s arrival. Describes the volumes of Boswell’s books she is reading. Describes the tea she had with Mrs Evans and how Clare behaved. Describes how the Pilcher’s were treated by the police for having an unregistered Belgian woman stay with them.

Describes in detail her shopping trip to London and what her and Mildred bought. Describes how she will copy out his letters discussing Hell. Tells him about a letter from Mary describing being bombed. Expresses her concern for his safety. Discusses his previous letter about being cynical.

Acknowledges his letter received that morning. Describes Clare playing with Ursula's son and compares Clare's progress with other babies. Expresses her sadness over the massacre in Armenia and gives her opinion about a loving God.

Discusses in detail their difference of opinion on Heaven and Hell. Describes a humorous article in Punch.