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Letter from to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Tinkeye Dzong’.

Brief Summary
Delayed because Longstaff had been unwell. Photographed Gyanka mountains with Morshead and Somervell but it was cloudy. Finch gave oxygen demonstrations. Details of evening routine. No thought had been put into how they were to carry oxygen cylinders up and down. Outlined their plans for camps when they reached Everest.

Detailed Summary
Wonders what she is climbing with their good friends at Pen y Pass and is annoyed that he won’t know for a long time due to the time it takes for the mail to reach them.

Their journey had passed happily enough in warmer weather but they had to stay a second day because Longstaff was unwell. Thought Longstaff was ‘alarmingly frail’ but looked better today. He liked Longstaff very much but he didn’t have the physique for this job although he did carry it all through with his tremendous spirit.

The repetition of aesthetic experiences was not very stimulating. The march in sun and wind and the camp had a somnolent effect and he felt too much like an animal. However these two days had been full enough.

He had gone on a little expedition with Morshead and Somervell to photograph the Gyanka mountains but the clouds had spoilt the plan which was a disappointment and after the previous four days which had been marvellously clear (could distinguish details on Everest with the naked eye from Kampa Dzong over 100 miles away). He put on an amusing show when teaching the porters how to use the rope by tumbling down a little slope and pretending to fall into crevasses. He walked nearly an hour to visit some rocks where they had a strenuous little climb.

Finch gave oxygen demonstrations after tea largely for the benefit of the novices which showed up several weaknesses which had developed in the apparatus which they had used for practice on board the S.S. Caledonia. It could be adjusted but showed how many chances were against its working perfectly.

The evening routine consisted of dinner which was always an early meal (not later than 7pm) and they usually sat talking until 8.30pm when the party began to break up and he was usually in bed by 9pm or soon after. He was trying to learn a little Gurkali - enough to get on in some simple fashion with the porters, a matter which may be of some importance when they come to fix a camp on the North Col.

They talked a lot about the organisation for climbing Everest. General Bruce was under orders to try the oxygen but it was an interesting result of the haste in which the expedition had been equipped that no calculations had been made as to how they were to carry the whole weight of the oxygen cylinders and apparatus (8-900 lbs) up and down. He and Longstaff had been going into the question of organisation as General Bruce wanted to be ready with a plan when they fixed the base near the Rongbuk Glacier. From his past experience Longstaff knew more about this sort of thing than anyone else and he was very glad to find they were in agreement.

Thought it would take a fortnight to establish a camp on the North Col (my mid May) which would leave a month for operations. That sounded good but it would take another fortnight to get the oxygen to the North Col and they would also have to consider the next stage to a camp at about 25,000 ft. Thought the main trouble was a shortage of men to take supplies up to the different camps. They would also be hampered by insufficient tents and sleeping sacks and wouldn’t be able to leave them in the established camps and would have to carry the sleeping sacks at lease up and down. Didn’t want her to pass on this criticism of the equipment as he thought it had been remarkably well done.

Thinks he may have provided details which she would find difficult to follow. He wasn’t pessimistic. He wouldn’t write much more as the ink was trying to freeze. The party was getting on very well but he found Finch rather tiresome as he was always talking about science as practiced in his laboratory or about photography.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from New York [Waldorf-Astoria, New York letterhead crossed out and ‘change of address to Flanders Hotel, 135 W 47th St. is written in Mallory’s hand]

He had moved hotel from the Waldorf-Astoria to the Flanders Hotel which was cheaper, and was where Reginald Poel was also staying. He’d spent the morning writing letters about his engagements and had sent his manuscript to the American publisher of the second Everest book who would type two copies one of which he would send to Arnold.

Went for the second time to the Morgan library to see the Boswell Letters and then had tea with Edith Watlen at the hotel.

He had spend the weekend in the Lawrentian hills at St. Marguerite with John Williams who was teaching him to ski. He broke a ski on the first run but managed to hire some. It was hard work but glorious fun. Clear days were delightful but it was very cold at night and most Canadians did not enjoy the cold. He stayed with the Williams who were kind but had now returned to New York which was depressing.

The lecture tour wasn’t coming off as the public interest wasn’t wide enough. He only had three more lectures arranged. Asks her not to be terribly disappointed as they would be poorer than he had hoped for a bit.

He had attended an interesting dinner party where there were two men in favour of France’s policy in the Rhur which was unusual in America. There was a rumour that Turkey had sunk a French submarine. He said it would be good if something like that would bring America into European affairs. There was no continuity in American foreign policy but they were so light hearted about the faults of their own politics that he despaired of it getting better.

Was glad to receive copies of the Manchester Guardian as there was no foreign news in the New York newspapers. Lack of understanding of the issues even among the educated but expected to find a different ‘mental atmosphere’ in Boston.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Trenkye [Tinki] Dzong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Responds to contents in her letters from 6-10 May mentioning the Hodges, Clare, Bridget’s son, Mary Ann and Stephen. He was feeling happier. He had been nailing the porter's boots. He had planned a two day expedition with Bullock to climb up to about 20,000 ft and see the N. E. face of Everest and had avoided telling Howard-Bury. Morshead had now joined the group. Describes a hill walk and a fragrant flower which he enclosed in the letter hoping it still had some of its scent.

He planned to take photos of the mountain range as they were now in a country which no European had previously visited. The rest of the party were quite cheerful. The food provisions were not proving expensive. Tells her not to be hopeless about the expedition as they may yet do very well. He would think of her on her birthday tomorrow.

Acknowledges his last letter and discusses Trafford's character and how he might get on after the war. Apologises for him not receiving any parcels while she was ill with influenza and tells him the contents of his next parcel. Expresses her anxieties over starting the Montessori class and the slowness of the postal service. Discusses how to give the appropriate amount of time to the children and their plans for moving back to the Holt.

Tells him about Clare and Beridge attending a party at the Holt. Describes Violet's reaction to receiving her five pound bonus. Describes making a necklace for Marjorie. Asks him for reading suggestions and expresses what she would like to read. Tells him she would have liked to vote in his place. Asks him where in Calais is he located and expresses her fears of him being assigned another task that will keep him from coming home. Expresses her opinions about party politics. Discusses the nature of their friend's marriages and openness of their lives. Tells him she will always use the baby welfare group for doctor's advice because it is paid for by the rates. Sends him Christmas wishes.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Expresses her opinions about her stay with his parents and on his mother's personality. Acknowledges his letter. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him that his father has returned home and about visiting a Russian family in need. Describes her morning activities. Apologises for a letter full of trifles.

Discusses in detail the patterns for his curtains. Updates him on her father and Berry's health. Describes what she has been reading in the Oxford Book. Wonders what it would be like to live on a farm. Discusses becoming a member of the Montessori Society and visiting their schools in London. Tells him she has decided on the fabric and pattern for his curtain.

Updates him on news from his mother's letter about the health of Avie and Doris. Tells him she had a nice weekend with Olive. Discusses in detail her opinions of the book Natural Law in the Spiritual World. Expresses her concern for her religious life and discusses the ways she can improve it. Updates him on Clare and Berry's progress. Discusses Clare's character and her relationship with Berry. Discusses the progress of the war.

Writes of her anticipation to hear the news of peace. Discusses moving back to the Holt. Asks him to try and get home as soon as he can. Informs him that the bells have been rung for peace. Describes in detail the atmosphere at Church and in the streets with people celebrating, waving flags, and singing. Expresses her hopes that Clare will remember that day. Updates him on her progress in recruiting Mrs Trew to help with the Montessori classes and recruiting members. Describes a conversation with Bridget and Mary Anne. Hopes that she has articulated how happy and thankful she is with the peace.

Informs him she has had a second round of influenza and that she is still on bed rest. Expresses her hopes that he will be home soon. Acknowledges his last letters and expresses her happiness that he has seen Trafford and Geoffrey Keynes. Updates him on Berry's progress and her father's health. Expresses her love for him.

Describes her morning activities and gives him news from Avie. Reflects that she has not had a letter from him for awhile. Updates him on her health. Describes trying to recruit Montessori class members. Expresses her difficulties in trying to read when there are people around. Describes in detail the nature of Clare's intelligence and expresses her desire that he take an interest in talking to Clare when he is home. Updates him on Berry's progress.

Acknowledges his letter and discusses him buying a picture and asking the artist to paint Clare. Reflects on making friends unexpectedly. Expresses her wish to learn French. Describes in detail the Labour meeting about the League of Nations and gives her opinions of it. Updates him on news from Mary and Berry's progress.

Expresses her disappointment that he may not be home for another nine months. Recommends that he write to Mr Beveridge and Mr Fletcher about his leave. Discusses arrangements for the Holt in his continued absence. Asks him for his opinion about the Government's organisation of demobilisation. Expresses her gratitude for him surviving the war and her disappointment that it is taking so long for him to come home. Asks him what the French organisation for demobilisation is like. Discusses her opinions on Neitsche and Christianity and the merits of living alone.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Rongli Chu.

Full Transcript

My dearest One,

This is the great day of valley-ease & warmth & languor & the delights of the lotus-eater, & I must write to you here with my feet in the splashing stream & heaven all about me as I look up. We started from Pedong this morning – sloped easily down the 2,000 ft to the stream where I bathed last time while Noel immortalised the event; there Irvine, Odell & I bathed, properly this time, even finding a pool to dive into, and at length. Thence on ponies up to Rheenok - you should be able to follow all this on one of my old maps of Sikhim [Sikkim] – where I made some attempts at photographing the remarkable houses, & thence, not up over the pass by Ari to get here by the shortest way, but contouring the hill until we could drop into this valley 6 miles below the bungalow. It is a very lovely valley, quite one of the best parts of Sikhim [Sikkim], & we had a good walk up, quite energetically carrying heavyish rucksacks. I was wearing my new boots for the first time for a whole march & found them pretty comfortable, my ankle & hip are all going quite well too, so that I quite expect by the time we reach Phari I shall have ceased to think about them.

The weather is perfectly fine but very hazy owing to the great number of fires in the valleys. It is the custom of the country to burn a good deal of undergrowth in the forests & dead leaves in order to get better new grass in the spring – but I can’t remember anything like so much haze as this last year. Consequently we have had nothing at all of a view all the way from Darjeeling & the country is looking more dry & dead than last year; it has in fact been very dry; I hear there has been exceptionally little snow in Tibet & the plains are already beginning to look green – but this is hardly credible. Incidentally, there are sights of a change of weather this afternoon but then we had a thunderstorm in Kalimpong which made absolutely no difference!

It has apart from views been a pleasant journey so far. We started in motors for 6 miles from Darjeeling & half way down the hill Norton, Hingston, Somervell & self had breakfast with a tea planter called Lister – it is a famous tea garden I believe & he certainly gave us to drink Orange Pekoe of the most delicious flavour (a series of violent slashes at this point). After that pleasant interval we took all the short cuts hurrying down to Tista Bridge, where we arrived dripping & found our ponies; my pony which is to carry me to Phari is quite a good beast – the best I have had at this stage & my saddle is comfortable & I feel very well off altogether -; we went straight up the hill on our ponies & were in Kalimpong at 1.30 for tiffin.

At Kalimpong next day last times performances were repeated – a “tamasha” for boy scouts & girl guides & a wonderful little ceremony in the big school room with all of us on the platform singing the metrical version of Psalm 121 to the tune of Old Hundredth, & prayers, & speech making divine/mixed. Old Dr Graham is really a wonder, & if one were going to be a missionary one couldn’t do better. He has between 6 & 700 children, mostly by bastards or children of ne’er-do-well parents & does them well all round. When the old Scot is short of money he goes down to Calcutta & collects a few batches of rupees from the big businessmen who all know & believe in him & his institutions flourish.

I think I told you the names of the 2nd party, but omitted Odell. Shebbeare the forest officer is an excellent fellow; we went a little walk into the forest above Pedong last evening & we saw quite close a very fine jungle cat, about as high as Raven but with the propositions of Agapanthus or rather perhaps of the other Westbrook cat, which it does resembled in colour – S. didn’t get a very good view of it & couldn’t tell me what it was; but it is extraordinary how it makes the whole forest seem alive to see a beast like that. We couldn’t be a nicer party – at least I hope the others would say the same; we go along our untravelled way in happiest fashion.
Since I began writing the air has become unbearably stuffy & a thunderstorm is brewing. The one crab about this place is that there is no water supply which is at all likely to unpolluted – & so one drinks tea, but our tiffin tea has left me very thirsty & I long for a long lemon squash or whisky & soda. You see how completely a physical animal one has become.

I’m spending a certain amount of time & effort as we come along learning Hindustani; it is very unsatisfactory because the coolies themselves are so bad at it; but I do find already that I get on with them more easily. We shall be very short of men who can speak to porters higher up. Irvine, Odell & Beetham, none of them know a word yet.

Dearest I’m really enjoying myself now with a good holiday feeling. If I were not I should be still feeling grieved with the world because no letter has yet reached me from you. Anyway after four marches I will receive a mail. Tomorrow’s march is all up hill to Sedongchen & the next, still up to Gnatong (12,500), is the great rhododendron march, but only the very lowest will be in flower. I have in mind another little detour, by the way of variety, from Kupup, diverging to the Natu La instead of Jelap La as before.

Dear girl I think of you often & often with ever so much love & wish for your company. Would there were some way of bringing you nearer. I think the nearness depends very much upon the state of ones imagination. When it boils up as it does sometimes at night, under the stars I could almost whisper in you ear; and even now dear I do feel near you, though my state is loggish & I come very near to kissing you.

My love to Clare & Berry & John & best of all to yourself.
Ever your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Been inoculated against typhoid so couldn't do exercise. Discusses book by Baudouin. Refers to Ghandi's arrest and strikes.

Detailed Summary
Nearing end of voyage and he had rather enjoyed myself. He had been rising early and sitting alone in the early sun. He was inoculated against typhoid two days ago and so was debarred from such activities as Max Mullers, ‘My System’, skipping and running because they were too painful. He was wearing the old khaki silk shirt she gave him and mended the other day, my shorts, and a pair of gym shoes.

Wants more seasoned silence and collected meditation. Gives a detailed criticism of Baudouin’s book, discussing the law of reversed effort and its potential application to children. He was going to send her the book and suggests she carefully read the part about the practices of auto-suggestion and suggests they practice this with Clare [daughter] to help with her little troubles of competitiveness with other children. Was also sending her back The Revision of the Peace Treaty which was well worth reading - one could skip some of the figures.

He expected to be in Bombay the next morning and refers to Ghandi’s arrest. They had heard in Aden of a general strike on the railways. He missed seeing the papers. Comments on the Curzon affair.

It had been a fortnight since he had left and he supposed the flowers were blooming in their garden at home. Asks her to report on specific plants to him and mentions Clutton-Brock and Beagly. His next letter would be from Darjeeling and should be more interesting, though he didn't expect there would be much time for writing.

Acknowledges his letter and asks him what his lecture was about. Expresses her hopefulness that he will soon be released. Updates him on Clare's health and Berry's progress. Discusses what to do with their letters to each other and suggests destroying hers but keeping his. Describes unpacking at the Holt. Expresses her longing for him to be there with her and her gratitude that he survived the war. Updates him on news from Robert Graves. Discusses the furniture arrangements and errands to do at the Holt. Tells him she intends to write to Robert and Mary Anne. Send him her love.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Fletcher had written asking him to take advantage of an Army Council order and return to Charterhouse. Had agreed to the application being made as soon as the Armistice was declared as he was keen to return as soon as possible. Asks her to tell the O'Malleys about it [they were tenants at the Holt] so they could find alternative accommodation.

Thanks her for the flour and advises about what cakes she should send out and at what intervals.

Likes the photo of her and Berry. Refers to comments she made in her last letter in which she said he made different appearances in her mind and that he thought they weren't all very agreeable. Asks whether he appears as a domestic tyrant irritable and unkind. Says things will be different when they are living together again and that she need not have any fears for the future.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Wonders what Fletcher had done about applying for his return. He might be home within a few weeks or if the application failed then it might take 3 months.

They had no orders to move yet and so they might stay there until peace preliminaries had been signed. There was uncertainty as to where they would spend the winter. The weather was getting colder especially at night.

That morning a plane had flown low overhead and dropped somthing red. It was a parcel for him from Trafford wrapped in red bunting. Trafford was going to come the day after tomorrow to take him off in his car to stay with him.

Wasn’t sure where the oak tree was that she mentioned but they would be glad of the wood if they could cut it up and cart it off. How was she doing for coal? Doesn’t see why the coal ration shouldn’t now be increased. Was sorry to hear that Violet may leave them as they wouldn’t get anyone as good. Agreed that the immediate future would be a good time to get servants. Thought it unwise to get Maggie Dunsby unless she was stronger than she used to be.

17 November - she might ask Violet to stay and nurse Beridge until she is 2 years old. Hoped to be back in time to have some time before term started.

Describes helping with the housework and discusses his mother's health. Reminds him they forgot to collect some photographs. Discusses the progress of the war and when it might end.

Discusses the peace terms given by President Wilson. Describes the weather and her plan to go to Church. Tells him about learning poetry to read to Clare. Describes her relationship with Berry. Tells him about the visitors they've had that afternoon. Expresses her opinions about people's attitudes to peace talks. Mentions finishing her book on the French Revolution.

Describes in detail the conversation she had with Mary Anne about the teaching of young children. Informs him that she has been in touch with the Secretary of the Montessori Society regarding the apparatus. Discusses plans for moving into the Holt after he is demobilised. Tells him about the apples and other items she has sent him. Updates him on her father's health. Tells him about the O'Malley's plans to move closer to London. Discusses the progress of the war.

Discusses financial matters. Informs him of an invitation from Mr and Mrs Harold Wilson and Mrs Henry Cox to meet Lieutenant Commander and Mrs W. Arnold-Forster, which she intends to decline. Reflects on the time they will spend with friends together after the war. Discusses how they will manage to live at the Holt financially. Discusses the progress of the war. Expresses her hope that the O'Malley's will stay in the neighbourhood. Asks him if he has started shooting yet. Expresses her opinions on the book she is reading.

Describes the children playing together. Describes dinner with the O'Malley family and their plans to find a new house. Discusses the prospect of peace. Tells him she has heard from Trafford and updates him with news of Doris' health. Informs of her plans when visiting London. Updates him on her father's health.

Discusses the progress of the war and the imminent possibility of peace. Tells him about Ursula's concert at Woolwich. Describes a conversation with Violet about Clare. Discusses hiring Maggy back. Expresses her sorrow to hear he has been sick and warns him to cook his oysters in future. Expresses her wish to have him home and imagines what their days will look like.

Acknowledges his last letter. Updates him on her health. Tells him she has heard from Jelly and updates him on her news. Describes reading about the fight against the submarine warfare of the Germans. Updates him on Berry's progress. Tells him about the seriousness of the flu in Guildford and the deaths they have had there. Discusses the mutiny of the German navy.

Acknowledges his letter telling her he has read Tess of the D'Urbervilles. Expresses her opinions about tragedies and learning about Shakespeare in school. Describes her time with the children and how she played with Clare. Tells him Alison Steel is coming to visit and how she is attending the baby welfare group. Updates him on the news of influenza in Ipsden. Describes showing Clare of to Mr Kenway's brother-in-law.

Acknowledges his last letter and is sorry to hear he is feeling lonely. Tells him about Violet's father breaking his leg and the visitors she is expecting. Discusses Mary Anne and Owen's relationship and tells him about an argument they had. Describes how she intends to find a cook for the Holt and what to send in his next parcel. Tells him about completing her Montessori alphabet. Updates him on Clare's progress. Reiterates that Mr Clutton-Brock is eager to see him.