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Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Responds to news in her letters. They had been in the same camp for two weeks. He had spent some of the time at the advanced camp climbing with Bullock. Snow had put an end to their climbs and Howard-Bury had ordered them to leave camp and return to the lower one. Bullock carried a pink umbrella on the marches. Didn't think much of Howard-Bury's official accounts of their climbs. Describes other members of the party and their physical fitmess. Was still hoping to attempt to summit but it would depend on the weather.

Detailed Summary
They had received two mail deliveries and everyone in camp spent a long time silently reading their letters. He responds to news in her letter mentioning Bob Morgan, photos of the children, the Keynes, O’Malley, the Fletchers, the Brocks, the Trews [?], and thanks her for being very diligent about circulating his news. He feared his letters had been very dull but had been writing partly for himself as a record which he otherwise wouldn't have made.

He had received a letter from Avie and David who had both enjoyed their visits to Ruth and he had enjoyed hearing about her from them. He had also heard from his mother and father who were very happy after visiting her. His father seemed to be greatly impressed by John [their son]. Mentions Miss Walround, Edith Stopford, the Reads, and that it was nice to hear that Geoffrey Young was anxious to hear his news. Was delighted by photos of the children. Asks in detail about the state of the garden, her upcoming plans, and whether she is going to Westbrook [Ruth's father’s house].

They were still in the same place as over a fortnight ago. Describes working on the upper camp (1st Advanced at 20,000 ft) with supplies, attempting to stay up there, trekking with Bullock and of pitching a tent in the usual snowstorm. Describes the fine granular snow of high altitudes. After a good night’s sleep he had woken to see the roof of his tent hanging inwards and a white world outside and conditions for climbing were entirely hopeless.

He had a Kodak camera to take snapshots of the porters and their snow-bound camp and a quarter-plate to take photos of the mountains. Spent the morning sitting on a rock taking six photographs before a porter arrived bearing a chit from Howard-Bury who had nothing more to say than to urge the obvious. After a debate with Bullock they had packed up the tents, covered the stores and prepared to go down to Howard-Bury’s camp. Bullock had a pink umbrella which he invariably carried on the march.

He had told her little of the movements of the others as he trusted she would have been informed by Howard-Bury’s articles. These were not very informative and he wasn't impressed by them.

They were all together for the first time since Kampa Dzong. Raeburn on his arrival was almost a broken and heart-breaking figure, and when Howard-Bury and Wollaston arrived on 6 September they sketched over some difficulties about stores and had settled down quite amicably. Wollaston was a rather solitary bird who was always jolly and friendly to talk with, but he had the impression that he was more tired of the expedition than the rest of them.

He was happy but thought the month was too late already for their great venture and they would have to face great cold. Feared his hopes and plans for seeing something of India on the way back wouldn't be possible.

The interest remained for him and he felt that when they returned to Darjeeling he wouldn’t leave without regret. He’d like to undertake a few other ascents, less ambitious but perhaps more delightful. He was looking forward to seeing her again.

Wheeler had been taking photographs and Morshead had been keeping him company. There was a shortage of tents due to Raeburn’s unexpected arrival, so Morshead had slept in the tent with Bullock and himself [Mallory]. It was a disorderly but happy arrangement. Wheeler came in to eat with them while the rest had their meals round a table in a pukka mess tent. There was plenty of talk and good cheer but he still thought Wheeler was not a fit man. He Morshead and Bullock made a good trio. Heron had arrived yesterday as cheerful and good natured as ever and he promised him a bit of rock from the summit of Everest.

17 September [letter continues] - the weather had changed and they had woken to find the sky clear and remaining clear. The day before he had enjoyed a good walk with Morshead and Bullock and were rewarded with a beautiful view of Everest. That day he, Morshead and Howard-Bury had ascended a snow peak on the boundary ridge and seen a glorious view. He could see Kangchenjunga [third highest mountain in the world] and all the higher mountains to the East. Makalu straight opposite across the valley was gigantic and Everest at the head of the valley was very fine too. The snow was not melting as it should; above 20,000 ft or so it was powdery under a thin crust and it was impossible to get along without snowshoes, and fears they’ll have to pack up at once if the snow didn't melt properly on the glacier. Morshead was going badly and he [Mallory] was feeling the height a good deal. Altogether his hopes were about zero.

He had been thinking about the children and asked her to kiss them and show them the lozenges below [see drawings at the bottom of the letter] which were meant for special birthday kisses. Tomorrow they were going up again so he was busy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Base Camp

Brief Summary
First summit attempt without oxygen and waiting to hear about Finch and Young Bruce’s summit attempt with oxygen.

Detailed Summary
Had received mail from her and read news of Pen y Pass. Four of his fingers on the right hand had been touched by frost bite but only the top joint of the third finger gave him any trouble and he didn’t think there was any danger of losing any part of it. Poor Morshead was a very different case and they didn’t yet know what the damage would be. Thought it was stupid or careless of them to be caught out as it was easy enough to keep hands warm with gloves if you weren’t doing too much with them. He took the lead over from Morshead and cut the steps as quickly as possible for fear the porters would be done in by the cold and refuse to continue. Morshead was insufficiently clothed and didn’t know his fingers were caught until the following night. He had wrecked himself cutting the steps and when they were pitching tents hardly had the strength to lift a stone. The night at 25,000 ft was miserable and he didn’t expect to go on.

Somervell was the reserve man all through and was particularly useful in cooking at the high camp. Norton went first on the final day and was very nearly done at the end and was climbing very slowly. They could have gone further but turned back to allow time for the descent. On a fine morning they would have started 2 hrs earlier and reached the N. E. shoulder.

He lead on the descent except where they had to cut steps. He and Norton shared the cutting as he judged he would be quicker than the others. He felt pretty strong on the descent. The slip was nearly a bad business. He hadn’t realised how shaky Morshead was and had cut rather poor steps. Norton and Somervell must have been caught napping. He didn’t have the rope belayed round his waist as he was on the point of cutting a step. Hearing something wrong behind drove in his pick and belayed and was ready in plenty of time when the strain came. Morshead must have made a very fine effort coming down the steps of the snow slope as he appeared to tread quite safely; but the moment they were on easier ground he collapsed. He didn’t like the idea of being out after dark above 23,000 ft. It was a very trying and anxious time.

Next morning there was a lot of hard work cutting steps down from Chang La [North Col] and they weren’t down to Camp 3 until after noon. They walked down to Base the next day and were a very tired party, and all except Somervell, had remained tired. The rest of the party were very pleased with their performance. Thought that the three of them were out of it now. Norton’s ear and his finger were frostbitten and Longstaff wouldn’t hear of them going up again until they were healed. It was annoying as he wanted to make one more try from a camp at 26,000 ft.

They were a perfectly happy party at Camp 3. Apart from the anxiety he had enjoyed it tremendously.

Thinks he won’t have answered all her questions. Says he is still feeling stupid and it was a great effort making a narrative for the press. Wonders what people at home think of them.

[Continues later] - Had just received 3 letters from her and also letters from all his family. Comments on her time in North Wales and hopes she is better for her holiday. Of Pen y Pass he says he knows nowhere that one comes away from feeling so strong. Had a very nice letter from David [Pye] about Pen y Pass. It was almost certain that they would be leaving Everest on her birthday and should be in Darjeeling about 7 July at latest, and hoped to be home by early August. Thought he might take a week to travel through India and then take another week coming round by sea to London. He hoped for one spell of walking with her before October, mentioning the good places they still had to visit together, Teesdale in late spring, a Yorkshire dale, golden in September, and Derbyshire, or the west country again.

[Continues later] - He had been dictating to Morris [General Bruce’s secretary] while he typed up a narrative of their climb. He had worked out she ought to get news of their climb very near the date of her birthday and this letter should reach her on 4 July, and on the same day he should arrive in Darjeeling.

Details future travel plans as he wants to see something more of the world. He may see the Bullocks on his way home as he had heard from him the other day full of questions about the expedition. They had both been ill and asks Ruth to write to Mrs Bullock as she would be glad to hear from her. He had written a note to his mother and had received one from his sister Avie and hoped she was really better.

He had been thinking of a plan for them to meet in the Alps on his way home but felt she wouldn’t come because of the expense, but if she did it would be easy for him to meet her there. He didn’t know whether Geoffrey Young had secured the Tyndall chalet but if so they could go there which would make a great difference. Tells her how to get there and what costs would be involved.

[Continues later] - they were waiting for news of Finch and G. Bruce’s attempt to summit using oxygen. Thinks they would certainly break their record as they have had very good weather but he didn’t expect them to have reached the top at the first attempt. It all depended on whether they succeed in dumping cylinders ahead of them. He didn’t feel jealous of any success they may have. Getting up with oxygen was so different from their attempt that the two hardly enter into competition. He chaffed because his finger kept him in camp and Longstaff had no idea how bad it was. It was extremely sensitive to cold and if he went up again he would get a real bad frostbite so he had to be patient.

Norton was responsible for collecting flowers with Longstaff’s help. As Longstaff had to go back in a hurry Norton had asked him [Mallory] for help and what they found the previous year. He could easily do this without much loss of time but would be a week later reaching Darjeeling. The idea of seeing seeing the early flowers between there and Kharta and near Kharta too attracted him.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

Describes her morning watching her father fish. Tells him how happy she is to hear from him and what she has been doing with her family; Mildred has been painting and she has been rowing. Expresses her wish to have a photograph of him and asks for Avie’s address. Discusses her thoughts on Scrambles Amongst the Alps. Notes the change in weather, how she is missing him and how Uncle Hawes is enjoying fishing. Tells him how perfect life is going to be with him.

Tells him how she misses him and how she is coping while he is away. Expresses her desire to have more children. Tells him of an upcoming trip to London. Asks him how he is feeling and wishes she was with him. Informs him of a letter received from Avie. Tells him she got home alright after not having her train ticket.

Asks what happened to him when separated from the others. Hopes her letters are getting through. Describes her morning activities - making butter and china painting. Wonders what he is doing and hopes the war will be over soon. discusses her opinions on a business government. Describes her shopping trip to Hazelmere. Asks him if he has seen any of the action from the front. She intends to write to Avie and send her some of his letters.

Describes her journey to Birkenhead. Tells him she is glad he is safe. Informs him that his mother and Avie are well. She intends to take a trip to Mabberly. She hopes he is receiving her letters.

Informs him that she is not pregnant. Expresses her wish to have more children. States that she cannot help at the hospital for fear of passing infections to the baby. She intends to stay with Avie in the week. Relays Mr Reade's compliments on his pamphlet. Expresses her concerns about the war and his safety. Tells him she has sent him his protractor.

Describes her eventful train journey to Mobberly. Asks him how his work is going. Updates him on Clare. Tells him about her stay with Avie and describes the garden.

Updates him on Clare's activities. Describes her feelings towards Harry and his relationship with Avie, and compares the household with St John's Vicarage. Informs him that she is going to Birkenhead. Discusses her thoughts on raising children.

Her box has arrived at Birkenhead. She delivers the news that the dog has passed away and hopes Marjorie won't be too upset. Tells him about her experience volunteering at the maternity hospital and describes the situation of some of the mothers. Expresses her wish to help people in need. Informs him she intends to make copies of his letters to send to Mary, Avie and Trafford. She encloses a letter from Mr Rendall regarding his pamphlet.

7 July - She intends to write to Avie and Doris Turner. Tells him Doris had only achieved a fourth at Oxford. She has received his letter and is sorry he is having a bad time. Discusses the progress of the war and wishes for peace. Tells him how Clare has caught a cold from Mary Anne. Describes her visit to the Brocks. Discusses Mr Brock’s review of his book. Tells him she has had visits from Aunt Beatrice, Uncle Bertie, Aunt Agnes and Uncle Peter.

8 July – Tells him about her morning; Marjorie let the ferrets out resulting in an accident involving Clare falling out the pram. Discusses the progress of the war and reflects on helping at the hospitals. Informs him she will send him a cake.

Sunday 9 July - Informs him that the Clutton-Brocks are expected to tea. Tells him about the gardener leaving after sixteen years of service. Describes the man applying for the gardener position as a retired soldier with ‘shell shock’. Describes her morning activities; gardening, looking after Clare and painting china. Intends to send him pictures of Clare. Expresses her feelings about the progress of the war.

Monday 10 July – She has received his letter and reassures him they are all happy with the progress of the war. Expresses her sadness to hear that Uncle Arthur’s youngest son has been killed and her sadness at all the death.

Tells him she is feeling better. Discusses the other men in his Battery. Expresses her wish for him to be happy. Discusses how to achieve peace. Tells him about an invite to see Mrs Reade. Relays some information about Will Kennedy receiving a Military Cross. Asks him to send her Avie’s letter. Expresses her love for him. Describes a conversation with Violet about spoiling Clare. Informs him that Bice is coming to stay.

Saturday 6 Jan. evening - Expresses her concern for his well-being. Tells him about a letter from Avie. Describes in detail the visit to Mrs Irvine's house and the nursery to see her baby. Updates him on Clare's sleeping. Tells him about the trouble she has had sending his letters.

Sunday 7 Jan. morning - Asks him about his new job and about Mr Earl. Expresses her relief that he will be in less danger.

Tells him she is back home and updates him on her fathers health. Acknowledges his last letter and asks about the parcels she has sent. Discusses the progress of the war. Describes a letter from his mother requesting she stay at Buxton with her. Hopes she will get another letter from him soon.

Updates him about her father's health. Describes in detail a letter from Avie. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him about how she is feeling lazy and unorganised. Informs him that Ursula is coming to stay.

Acknowledges his last letter and hopes he is feeling better. Asks him if he has been given the staff job. Describes in detail his mother's visit. Discusses helping Mary and Barbara by inviting them to stay with her. Tells him about Trafford's leave. Updates him on Marjorie Waterhouse's visit. Tells him she is sending him a parcel.

Reflects on the war and her place in history. Expresses her thoughts on her doubts about the war ending that year, Germany's position in the war, and her opinions about the food ration. Updates him on her father's health. Describes in detail the conversations she had with the Irvine's at tea. Tells him that good service is hard to find and she hopes Violet doesn't leave and that she has heard from Avie. Reflects on the good times they have had.

Describes taking Clare for a walk and her morning activities. Tells him about an invitation from his mother and why she won't go but tells him she will go to the Isle of Wight instead. Updates him on everyone she has heard from. Expresses how she misses him. Compares her first sightings of cars to Clare's first sightings of aeroplanes. Informs him that Barbara is arriving soon.

Tells him she has been warmly welcomed and describes her feelings after he left. Describes in detail her visit to tour York Minister. Reassures him she is being looked after and sends him news of his parents. Updates him on Avie's health. Expresses her opinions on Mary and Ralph's friendship with Lord and Lady Nunburnholme. Hopes that peace will come soon.

Describes in detail shopping with his mother and buying herself a new coat. Discusses when she should leave for home and whether she should visit Avie first. Describes in detail the Mothers Meeting his mother had set up. Tells him about reading Natural Law in the Religious World and expresses her opinions about it.

Acknowledges his letter telling her he made it safely to Calais. Discusses what photographs she liked best and how many to order. Tells him she is going to visit Avie. Updates him on news from home. Describes the errands she has been running for his mother and a conversation with the printer about the Boy Scouts. Discusses her opinions about religion and relays conversations she has had with his mother on the matter. Expresses her wish for the war to be over.

Expresses her opinions about her stay with his parents and on his mother's personality. Acknowledges his letter. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him that his father has returned home and about visiting a Russian family in need. Describes her morning activities. Apologises for a letter full of trifles.

Describes her conversations with Avie about his mother coming to visit her. Discusses the progress of the war and the moves made for peace. Describes Avie's children and hopes they can all holiday together after the war. Sends him his parents' and Avie's love.

Discusses studying a map to follow the progress of the war. Expresses her hopes for peace soon. Describes her morning activities. Reflects on a conversation with Avie about his mother and tells him about John's character. Expresses her wish for them all to live together at the Holt. Asks him where he might be sent next. Expresses her opinions about a speech given by President Wilson. Reflects on how the war has affected individual people's thinking about justice.

Describes the weather and a failed trip to get some bunnies for Clare. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him that Nancy and Robert cannot visit. Tells him that she cannot find his field service pocket book. Discusses how she would like to raise Clare. Reflects on her father's beliefs in religion. Asks him to tell her when his gun has arrived.