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Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Life on board ship - pass times of sport and reading. Finch demonstrated oxygen apparatus. Opinion of colleagues.

Detailed Summary
Describes daily life on board. Members of the expedition party were happy smiling company with plenty of easy conversation.

Every morning George Finch gave a demonstration of the oxygen apparatus and they practised adjusting the valves.

Describes the old ship and his cabin in a smelly corner. He had finished Keynes’s book, mentions exercise and shares thoughts on his colleagues. Deck tennis had so far provided some amusement – Wakefield and Somervell were both keen. Finch rigged up punch-ball and was behaving very well so far. He was liking the bunch very well and not least Noel who has done quite a lot of lonely wandering and is reserved and interesting about his experiences. He had written an article for the Blackie Encyclopaedia which he doubted was what they wanted but said the important thing was that they should send a cheque for £10.

The following day they were due in Port Said. He planned to send the letter from there along with the book Night and Day, asking her to try and read it. Asks if there was a big gap now he had gone and hoped she could put away the loneliness as she had the children with her. He hated the fact they weren't together. He had been thinking again about going to America and she must go with him if he did.

He had a photograph of her and of the children with him and asks that if anyone takes new ones then she should send them on to him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Base Camp

Brief Summary
First summit attempt without oxygen and waiting to hear about Finch and Young Bruce’s summit attempt with oxygen.

Detailed Summary
Had received mail from her and read news of Pen y Pass. Four of his fingers on the right hand had been touched by frost bite but only the top joint of the third finger gave him any trouble and he didn’t think there was any danger of losing any part of it. Poor Morshead was a very different case and they didn’t yet know what the damage would be. Thought it was stupid or careless of them to be caught out as it was easy enough to keep hands warm with gloves if you weren’t doing too much with them. He took the lead over from Morshead and cut the steps as quickly as possible for fear the porters would be done in by the cold and refuse to continue. Morshead was insufficiently clothed and didn’t know his fingers were caught until the following night. He had wrecked himself cutting the steps and when they were pitching tents hardly had the strength to lift a stone. The night at 25,000 ft was miserable and he didn’t expect to go on.

Somervell was the reserve man all through and was particularly useful in cooking at the high camp. Norton went first on the final day and was very nearly done at the end and was climbing very slowly. They could have gone further but turned back to allow time for the descent. On a fine morning they would have started 2 hrs earlier and reached the N. E. shoulder.

He lead on the descent except where they had to cut steps. He and Norton shared the cutting as he judged he would be quicker than the others. He felt pretty strong on the descent. The slip was nearly a bad business. He hadn’t realised how shaky Morshead was and had cut rather poor steps. Norton and Somervell must have been caught napping. He didn’t have the rope belayed round his waist as he was on the point of cutting a step. Hearing something wrong behind drove in his pick and belayed and was ready in plenty of time when the strain came. Morshead must have made a very fine effort coming down the steps of the snow slope as he appeared to tread quite safely; but the moment they were on easier ground he collapsed. He didn’t like the idea of being out after dark above 23,000 ft. It was a very trying and anxious time.

Next morning there was a lot of hard work cutting steps down from Chang La [North Col] and they weren’t down to Camp 3 until after noon. They walked down to Base the next day and were a very tired party, and all except Somervell, had remained tired. The rest of the party were very pleased with their performance. Thought that the three of them were out of it now. Norton’s ear and his finger were frostbitten and Longstaff wouldn’t hear of them going up again until they were healed. It was annoying as he wanted to make one more try from a camp at 26,000 ft.

They were a perfectly happy party at Camp 3. Apart from the anxiety he had enjoyed it tremendously.

Thinks he won’t have answered all her questions. Says he is still feeling stupid and it was a great effort making a narrative for the press. Wonders what people at home think of them.

[Continues later] - Had just received 3 letters from her and also letters from all his family. Comments on her time in North Wales and hopes she is better for her holiday. Of Pen y Pass he says he knows nowhere that one comes away from feeling so strong. Had a very nice letter from David [Pye] about Pen y Pass. It was almost certain that they would be leaving Everest on her birthday and should be in Darjeeling about 7 July at latest, and hoped to be home by early August. Thought he might take a week to travel through India and then take another week coming round by sea to London. He hoped for one spell of walking with her before October, mentioning the good places they still had to visit together, Teesdale in late spring, a Yorkshire dale, golden in September, and Derbyshire, or the west country again.

[Continues later] - He had been dictating to Morris [General Bruce’s secretary] while he typed up a narrative of their climb. He had worked out she ought to get news of their climb very near the date of her birthday and this letter should reach her on 4 July, and on the same day he should arrive in Darjeeling.

Details future travel plans as he wants to see something more of the world. He may see the Bullocks on his way home as he had heard from him the other day full of questions about the expedition. They had both been ill and asks Ruth to write to Mrs Bullock as she would be glad to hear from her. He had written a note to his mother and had received one from his sister Avie and hoped she was really better.

He had been thinking of a plan for them to meet in the Alps on his way home but felt she wouldn’t come because of the expense, but if she did it would be easy for him to meet her there. He didn’t know whether Geoffrey Young had secured the Tyndall chalet but if so they could go there which would make a great difference. Tells her how to get there and what costs would be involved.

[Continues later] - they were waiting for news of Finch and G. Bruce’s attempt to summit using oxygen. Thinks they would certainly break their record as they have had very good weather but he didn’t expect them to have reached the top at the first attempt. It all depended on whether they succeed in dumping cylinders ahead of them. He didn’t feel jealous of any success they may have. Getting up with oxygen was so different from their attempt that the two hardly enter into competition. He chaffed because his finger kept him in camp and Longstaff had no idea how bad it was. It was extremely sensitive to cold and if he went up again he would get a real bad frostbite so he had to be patient.

Norton was responsible for collecting flowers with Longstaff’s help. As Longstaff had to go back in a hurry Norton had asked him [Mallory] for help and what they found the previous year. He could easily do this without much loss of time but would be a week later reaching Darjeeling. The idea of seeing seeing the early flowers between there and Kharta and near Kharta too attracted him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from ‘Hotel Seneca, Rochester, New York’ [Letterhead], with envelope

Planned to sail home on the Saxonia, March 31. Makes arrangements for meeting her when he arrived.

He had given a lecture in a museum in Philadelphia to a good audience, then a took train to Toledo where he gave a lecture before travelling to Buffalo. He saw Niagara and had arrived in Rochester where he was due to give a lecture that evening before leaving for Chicago. He then planned to go to Iowa City for a lecture but was disappointed it was far from his dream of seeing the Pacific Coast.
Had two more lectures booked in Hanover, New Hampshire, and Boston and possibly in one or two schools which was a very
disappointing affair.

Planned to make a detour on his return to New York and visit his Uncle Wilfred in Toronto.

He was sorry she was worried about money and promised to write to Hinks at once. The garage was more expensive than he anticipated. They would have to be careful about money. He was doing all he could to make some. He had written an article for a magazine called Asia and he thought the Everest Committee owed him about £180 and he had not been paid yet for the Everest book. The was some money due form the lectures he had given and there was a possibility of lecturing in England although he wasn’t much disposed to take on more than an occasional one.

He hoped Clare and Beridge had received the post card he sent from Niagara. The weather was bad when he visited with an east wind followed by a blizzard. Even so the rushing water was wonderfully impressive. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the best. The American falls were dirty and disappointing and much under the influence of the town Niagara which was abdominally smelly and smoky.

7 July - She intends to write to Avie and Doris Turner. Tells him Doris had only achieved a fourth at Oxford. She has received his letter and is sorry he is having a bad time. Discusses the progress of the war and wishes for peace. Tells him how Clare has caught a cold from Mary Anne. Describes her visit to the Brocks. Discusses Mr Brock’s review of his book. Tells him she has had visits from Aunt Beatrice, Uncle Bertie, Aunt Agnes and Uncle Peter.

8 July – Tells him about her morning; Marjorie let the ferrets out resulting in an accident involving Clare falling out the pram. Discusses the progress of the war and reflects on helping at the hospitals. Informs him she will send him a cake.

Tells him she is back home and updates him on her fathers health. Acknowledges his last letter and asks about the parcels she has sent. Discusses the progress of the war. Describes a letter from his mother requesting she stay at Buxton with her. Hopes she will get another letter from him soon.

Describes her eventful train journey to Mobberly. Asks him how his work is going. Updates him on Clare. Tells him about her stay with Avie and describes the garden.

Describes her conversations with Avie about his mother coming to visit her. Discusses the progress of the war and the moves made for peace. Describes Avie's children and hopes they can all holiday together after the war. Sends him his parents' and Avie's love.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 12 1917'

He was now over with the left half of the battery – north of the river once more. Was in an agreeable place in a deep little valley. Unfortunately, the wood had been utterly destroyed. Spring had arrived and the last of the mud was over. It was so warm he had had to take his coat off.

He liked being with the left half again. The Officer quarters were not much to boast off and the mess wasn’t water tight but they didn’t expect to be there for long. He was alone with Dunbar at present. Johnson was at the observation post and due back tonight. He had read some poetry to Dunbar from The Golden Treasury and he had liked Shelly but didn’t care much for Keats.

The air was full of hopes again as it had been before 1 July [1916] and he describes his views on the current state of the war.

Asks how she was managing the War Loan and their bank accounts and asks if she can see if the dividends are being paid regularly.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

He had no pupil that evening. The boys were being taught to fight on the other side of the pergola so it wasn't quiet. Agrees that other people seemed dull and it was all wrong and annoying but it would all be alright once they are married.

His day had started with a pupil before breakfast followed by two hours in school. One class contained some exceptionally irritating people and he was quite annoyed. He had a more enjoyable afternoon teaching history to his form and then English with the smallest boys. He had read poetry with them and they seemed enchanted. He was in quite a good humour.

He hadn't known how important her letters would become to him. He had found a photograph of himself taken in Wales which he hoped was agreeable. He provides an address for Avie [his sister Annie Victoria known as Avie]. He was delighted with a map Ruth had sent as it made him think of her in beautiful surroundings. He hoped she would get up the mountain and warned her not to be deceived by Whymper as things had changed a lot since his day [late 1800s]. They knew much more now and climbed much better.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory, from Washington

He was writing from bed having packed and was ready for an early start next morning. His first two lectures were over and he had been busy finishing his chapters and revising his lecture for an American audience and including some of Somerville's slides. The audience at the first lecture were unresponsive and didn't clap when he meant them to and almost never laughed but he just held their attention. Afterwards they had shaken his hand like it was a great success. In contrast the evening lecture was very successful.

He wants to hear from her but hasn't yet and sent great love to Clare and Beridge and John and Avie.

Reflects on when he might get leave. Describes a visit to the William's house. Expresses her wish for Clare to start talking. Describes a funny moment between Clare and Violet. Discusses her opinions on The Times article about the Education Bill. Describes her plans for the Baby Welfare group, focusing on pre-natal care. Expresses her thoughts on military service. Sends him her love.

Updates him about her father's health. Describes in detail a letter from Avie. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him about how she is feeling lazy and unorganised. Informs him that Ursula is coming to stay.

Reflects on the war and her place in history. Expresses her thoughts on her doubts about the war ending that year, Germany's position in the war, and her opinions about the food ration. Updates him on her father's health. Describes in detail the conversations she had with the Irvine's at tea. Tells him that good service is hard to find and she hopes Violet doesn't leave and that she has heard from Avie. Reflects on the good times they have had.

Asks what happened to him when separated from the others. Hopes her letters are getting through. Describes her morning activities - making butter and china painting. Wonders what he is doing and hopes the war will be over soon. discusses her opinions on a business government. Describes her shopping trip to Hazelmere. Asks him if he has seen any of the action from the front. She intends to write to Avie and send her some of his letters.

Informs him that she is not pregnant. Expresses her wish to have more children. States that she cannot help at the hospital for fear of passing infections to the baby. She intends to stay with Avie in the week. Relays Mr Reade's compliments on his pamphlet. Expresses her concerns about the war and his safety. Tells him she has sent him his protractor.

Tells him she has been warmly welcomed and describes her feelings after he left. Describes in detail her visit to tour York Minister. Reassures him she is being looked after and sends him news of his parents. Updates him on Avie's health. Expresses her opinions on Mary and Ralph's friendship with Lord and Lady Nunburnholme. Hopes that peace will come soon.

Expresses her opinions about her stay with his parents and on his mother's personality. Acknowledges his letter. Discusses the progress of the war. Tells him that his father has returned home and about visiting a Russian family in need. Describes her morning activities. Apologises for a letter full of trifles.

Discusses studying a map to follow the progress of the war. Expresses her hopes for peace soon. Describes her morning activities. Reflects on a conversation with Avie about his mother and tells him about John's character. Expresses her wish for them all to live together at the Holt. Asks him where he might be sent next. Expresses her opinions about a speech given by President Wilson. Reflects on how the war has affected individual people's thinking about justice.

Updates him on news from his mother's letter about the health of Avie and Doris. Tells him she had a nice weekend with Olive. Discusses in detail her opinions of the book Natural Law in the Spiritual World. Expresses her concern for her religious life and discusses the ways she can improve it. Updates him on Clare and Berry's progress. Discusses Clare's character and her relationship with Berry. Discusses the progress of the war.

Describes her morning activities and gives him news from Avie. Reflects that she has not had a letter from him for awhile. Updates him on her health. Describes trying to recruit Montessori class members. Expresses her difficulties in trying to read when there are people around. Describes in detail the nature of Clare's intelligence and expresses her desire that he take an interest in talking to Clare when he is home. Updates him on Berry's progress.

Discusses Christmas arrangements. Tells him David Pye has been asking after him. Discusses the arrangements for the nursery at the Holt. Asks him to see a doctor about his headaches and is glad to hear his ankle is fully healed. Expresses her opinions about Stephen Tallent's book.

Reflects on the last few months and expresses her sadness that he is not home for Christmas. Discusses the progress of demobilisation. Describes a conversation with Mary Anne and Violet about the Holt and the moving date. Expresses her concerns about Clare learning bad manners from the Fletcher boys. Tells him what presents she sent to his family and the preparations for Christmas. Reflects on all the things they can do together when he is home. Discusses the sugar ration.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Jan 6 1916' [it was actually written in 1917]

He had been hoping and hoping for this news [that she was expecting their second child] and they wouldn’t worry whether it was a girl or boy.

He wasn’t sure how to describe his job. Robinson had spent the first two days telling him there wasn’t much for him to do. He felt Robinson was impressed with himself in the role of adjutant and was anxious to do everything himself. His role was to look after the Colonel which meant accompanying him on his rounds and being generally informed. He had taken the Colonel up to see where they observed from. They had also ridden out to see an alternative battery position. He had only ridden a horse once in the last 10 years but it was a tame business. Thought their children should learn to ride.

He would have to get to know the other batteries in the group which would be interesting. He was in charge of the living quarters and would probably have to run the mess although McLeod, the signalling officer, was doing that at present. It was a footling old woman’s job. He hoped he could make a better job for himself. He liked the men there especially the Colonel and McLeod.

Wondered if anything would come of the strained situation between Austria and Germany.

Had to write letters to mother, Avie, Trafford and Geoffrey Keynes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Avington Park Camp, Winchester

Describes a fall he had suffered on his motor bike which resulted in an injured left hand and strained thumb. The whole camp had attended a lecture on venereal disease given by the Chaplain. Had spent the evening talking to Avie's doctor who was the medical officer in the battery next to his. Describes a "morbid and terrible" dream in which Ruth had died and his emotional reaction. Refers to Uncle Hawes and Aunt Jessie's plans to live in Canada.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Had finished reading William Morris and was delighted and much moved by it. He associated her family with William Morris and there was a very nice reference to her father’s work in the book. He would send the book on to her. He wanted to look up some of William Morris’s poetry as he knew very little of it.

He had been writing poetry but had to stop and go to the Headmaster’s house [Frank Fletcher]. He couldn't talk seriously to anyone as it was always time for tennis. Tennis was irritating because when he hit the ball hard it always went out.

His last letter was ridiculous which he didn't mind as it was good for her to have someone to laugh with as she appeared to be deliciously solemn at moments. He was much too conceited ever to envy a cricketer. He only envied the poets. He was glad that the sonnet he wrote [See: PP/GM/1/1/1914/2] meant something to her.

The boys were being jolly. He describes Miss Pollock by practising a literary parody of Henry James. He describes a thunderstorm which occurred during the night and was still on his mind as he read the great third act of King Lear to his Form. Explains his interest in Lear and asks her to read some of John Keats’ letters.

Was expecting his friend Lytton Strachey to arrive and stay the night. He was very queer to the world but not to him as they were friends but he must be very irritating to many people. He had a profound respect for his intellect and passion with which he held the doctrine of freedom. His love for him as a man of intense feeling and fine imagination helped him put up with much that he wouldn't tolerate in others.

He had borrowed a copy of Poems by the Way by William Morris from the Clutton-Brocks. He thought they should buy the same edition as a wedding present. He loved what she said about money but he had only been about 1% serious in his previous letter which she would have known if she could have seen him talking. Money was comic and wholly irrelevant to him.

Wonders what wedding presents they might receive. The idea of possessions didn’t interest him unless he had some part in producing a beautiful whole with them. Avie and Harry [his sister and her husband Harry Longridge] had received 300 wedding presents, and his sister Mary would receive more. He had suggested to Mary that she could have all the ones they received that they didn’t want but she had refused the offer so he would have to get her a present.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Believed they were moving that night south to the 1st Army. Orders had only just come. Had only that afternoon planted all the seedlings from Westbrook. Only half the Battery was to move. Lithgow and Bell were to go with him. No more bricks and mortar. Was sad he wouldn’t see the end of the building project. Thought they would be touring the country in motor lorries for a few days which he would enjoy but it was going to be wet. Was glad of a servant who packed for him and would upack. Was glad to think of her with Avie.

Sunday 9 July - Informs him that the Clutton-Brocks are expected to tea. Tells him about the gardener leaving after sixteen years of service. Describes the man applying for the gardener position as a retired soldier with ‘shell shock’. Describes her morning activities; gardening, looking after Clare and painting china. Intends to send him pictures of Clare. Expresses her feelings about the progress of the war.

Monday 10 July – She has received his letter and reassures him they are all happy with the progress of the war. Expresses her sadness to hear that Uncle Arthur’s youngest son has been killed and her sadness at all the death.

Tells him she is feeling better. Discusses the other men in his Battery. Expresses her wish for him to be happy. Discusses how to achieve peace. Tells him about an invite to see Mrs Reade. Relays some information about Will Kennedy receiving a Military Cross. Asks him to send her Avie’s letter. Expresses her love for him. Describes a conversation with Violet about spoiling Clare. Informs him that Bice is coming to stay.

Saturday 6 Jan. evening - Expresses her concern for his well-being. Tells him about a letter from Avie. Describes in detail the visit to Mrs Irvine's house and the nursery to see her baby. Updates him on Clare's sleeping. Tells him about the trouble she has had sending his letters.

Sunday 7 Jan. morning - Asks him about his new job and about Mr Earl. Expresses her relief that he will be in less danger.

Acknowledges his last letter and hopes he is feeling better. Asks him if he has been given the staff job. Describes in detail his mother's visit. Discusses helping Mary and Barbara by inviting them to stay with her. Tells him about Trafford's leave. Updates him on Marjorie Waterhouse's visit. Tells him she is sending him a parcel.