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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Sends his Christmas wishes for her and describes the new room he has moved into a short distance from the mess. He would be able to spend a great deal of time there except for occasional duties as orderly officer and a French class he was going to start for a few of the men.

Morning - the bed was comfortable. He was busy writing Xmas letters and would write to Mary and Mary Ann. He was annoyed they had rushed them out of the Holt but it wasn’t their fault. He thought it was Fletcher’s fault as he should have found out that demobilisation would be taken out of the hands of the War Office as soon as the armistace was signed and so applied for his release before the armistace and then let him refuse if the war had continued. He should have let them know at once that the arrangements had fallen through.

Was glad she was getting on well about servants. £35 sounded a lot for wages but supposed paying extra was worth it for good servants. Hadn’t heard if he had secured the purchase of the painting in Paris. What would she do about labour for the garden at the Holt? It might take 9 months to get demobilised but might not take that long.

Had two photos of her and Clare on his mantlepiece. Sends his love to her father, Mildred and Marjorie, the Lawrence Turners and the Haves Turners.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Kharta'.

Brief Summary
Describes flowers seen by him and Norton. Comments on a copy of the Everest book which he had received.

Detailed Summary
Had received two letters from her. Correspondence had been more difficult this year.

Had found two new white primulas. Describes the scene of his discovery in detail which was so beautiful he nearly fell down and wept. Detailed description of the flower. Hoped the seedlings they were bringing back would survive. Had also found another flower which was a much more starry flower. The flowers had been wonderful over the last few days. He and Norton had explored a side valley going down to the Arun. They had the loveliest of walks, trees, shrubs, and all were at their best in broken sunlight and showers - perhaps the best of all that blue-purple iris blooming freely in patches the size of our garden.

Had received a copy of the Everest book but was bored with having to find a place for it in his baggage. Thought it was well got up and looked the money but was disappointed with the reproductions. Was amused to find that the Morning Post was his most favourable reviewer. Thought the other reviews she had sent were remarkably dull, but the Times seemed pretty favourable.

They were to start back the day after to-morrow. He didn't expect to be able to catch a boat before 5th August and would probably save money by sailing right on to London. Younghusband had written to him and had said about the book, ’ ‘Yours was a splendid contribution and I am glad I resisted efforts to have it broken up and subdivided . Wonders whose wanted to subdivide the book and wondered if it was Howard-Bury out of jealousy.

Had received a letter from Edith Stopford and mentions the political situaion in Ireland. Wonders if it’s possible for civil war to be avoided. Edith said everyone expected it be and no one seemed much concerned.

He was very glad she has been to London. Asks her to congratulate Ursula on her concert.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from Chiblung

Full Transcript

My dearest Ruth,

I don’t know whether you will easily find this place on the map. We have come north from Tinkye, avoiding unpleasant customers at Chushar and Gyanka Nampa & this valley is divided from that in which Rongkon lies by a low range of hills - we are encamped just at the corner of the Chiblung Chu; Sanko Ri & the ridge where Somervell & I climbed in 1922 is our view to the west.

Today – at last – an English mail has reached us. I have had a very nice long letter from you and also a picture of the children enclosed with the photos from my American friend Schwab illustrating his expedition to Mt Clemenceau (did you notice the one of Mt Farrar & Mt Mallory?). I’m very glad to have the children’s picture, but you don’t send one of yourself naughty girl. Nor do you send me any cuttings this mail, nor the Nation which I hoped you would be sending – though really European affairs are so far away & news is so old that I’ve not much enthusiasm about them. Karma Paul who brought our mail also brought news of the General, whom he left in Phari; he must be pretty ill still as he was unable to walk and was to be carried down to Chumbi; Hingston will accompany him to Ganktok & should rejoin us at the B.C. [Base Camp] about the middle of May. Meanwhile Beetham gets on slowly & can’t be said to have got rid of dysentery yet let alone picking up after it - however I think he’s on the mend.

I heard from Mary today with news of the weather in Colombo & it looks as if the earliest breath of the monsoon is a fortnight early! But that doesn’t necessarily mean much. The bad sign is the weather here which is distinctly more unsettled than in ’22 & these last two nights have been unhealthily warm. Today we have been in a regular storm area though no rain or snow has actually fallen here.

April 24 at Shekar Dzong.

I’ve left it rather late to go on with this letter – that is partly because one way or another I have been spending a good many spare moments on the elaboration of our plans. The difficult work of allotting tasks to men has now been done – N [Norton]& I consulted & he made a general announcement after dinner 2 days ago. The question as to which of the first two parties should be led by Somervell & which by me was decided on two grounds (1) on the assumption that the oxygen party would be less exhausted & be in the position of helping the other it seemed best that I should use oxygen & be responsible for the descent (2) it seemed more likely on his last year’s performance that Somervell would recover after a gasless attempt to be useful again later. It was obvious that either Irvine or Odell should come with me in the first gas party. Odell is in charge of the gas, but Irvine has been the engineer at work on the apparatus – what was provided was full of leaks & faults & he has practically invented a new instrument using up only a few of the old parts & cutting out much that was useless & likely to cause trouble; moreover the remaining parties had to be considered and it wouldn’t do to make Irvine the partner of Geoffrey Bruce as they would lack mountaineering experience; & so Irvine will come with me. He will be an extraordinarily stout companion, very capable with the gas & with cooking apparatus; the only doubt is to what extent his lack of mountaineering experience will be a handicap; I hope the ground will be sufficiently easy.

Norton if he is fit enough will go with Somervell or, if he seems clearly a better goer at the moment, Hazard. Beetham is counted out, though he’s getting fitter. Odell & Geoffrey Bruce will have the important task of fixing Camp V at 25,500.

The whole difficulty of fitting people in so that they take a part in the assault according to their desire or ambition is so great that I can’t feel distressed about the part that falls to me. The gasless party has the better adventure, and as it has always been my pet plan to climb the mountain gasless with two camps above the Chang La it is naturally a bit disappointing that I shall be with the other party. Still the conquest of the mountain is the great thing & the whole plan is mine & my part will be a sufficiently interesting one & will give me perhaps the best chance of all of getting to the top. It is almost unthinkable with this plan that I shan’t get to the top; I can’t see myself coming down defeated. And I have very good hopes that the gasless party will get up; I want all 4 of us to get there, & I believe it can be done. We shall be starting by moonlight if the morning is calm & should have the mountain climbed if we’re lucky before the wind is dangerous.

This evening 4 of us have been testing the oxygen apparatus, and comparing the new arrangements with the old. Irvine has managed to save weight, 4 or 5 lbs, besides making a much more certain as well as more convenient instrument. I was glad to find I could easily carry it up the hill even without using the gas, & better of course with it. On steep ground where one has to climb more or less the load is a great handicap & at this elevation a man is better without it. The weight is about 30 lbs, rather less. There is nothing in front of one’s body to hinder climbing & the general impression I have is that it is a perfectly manageable load. My plan will be to carry as little as possible, go fast & rush the summit. Finch & Bruce tried carrying too many cylinders.

I’m still very fit & happy. Tibet is giving us many beautiful moments. With these abnormal weather conditions it is much warmer than in ’22 & the whole journey is more comfortable. It is nice having one’s own poney – mine is a nice beast to ride, but he’s not in good condition, & today has had a nasty attack of colic; however he’ll have a long holiday to come soon & I hope he’ll fatten up & arrive fit & well in Darjeeling were I shall sell him. Only 4 marches, starting tomorrow morning to the Rongbuk monastery! We’re getting very near now. On May 3 four of us will leave the Base Camp & begin the upward trek & on May 17 or thereabouts we should reach the summit. I’m eager for the great event to begin.

Now dearest I must say Good Night to you & turn into my cosy sleeping bag, where I shall have a clean nose sheet tonight, one of the two you made to fix with patent fasteners. Considering how much grease my face requires & gets that device has been very useful.

Great love to you always.

The telegram announcing our success if we succeed will precede this letter I suppose; but it will mention no names. How you will hope that I was one of the conquerors. And I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.

Ever your loving
George

Letter from Ruth Turner to George Mallory written from Ireland

Discusses her opinions on truth and reflects on growing up. She has changed her opinion of her book The Brothers Karamazov and has started reading William Morris by Mr Clutton-Brock. Expresses her desire to have Barnsley furniture in their house. Urges him to attend his sister’s wedding without her. Requests a photograph of Mary.

Her box has arrived at Birkenhead. She delivers the news that the dog has passed away and hopes Marjorie won't be too upset. Tells him about her experience volunteering at the maternity hospital and describes the situation of some of the mothers. Expresses her wish to help people in need. Informs him she intends to make copies of his letters to send to Mary, Avie and Trafford. She encloses a letter from Mr Rendall regarding his pamphlet.

Discusses the recent naval battle. Tells him she has read his letters out to his family. Informs him she intends to stay with Bridget and then Mary and forwards him Bridget’s address. Describes her difficulties with her dressmaker. Tells him of an accident that happened at Godalming involving a motor car. She intends to have Polly to visit. Asks him for photographs of Mr Bill.

Describes her morning working at the hospital with Mildred. Discusses the new dress patterns she received for her birthday. Hopes he is safe and well and informs him of a letter he received from Mr Thompson. Discusses what she has read in Vanity Fair. She has heard from Mary about the location of the armies. She hopes he is not near Ypres.

Explains that this is the second letter of the day written to him. Reiterates details from her previous letter. Intends to have Mary Anne, Owen, Diana and Ursula to visit at Westbrook. Expresses her anxieties about the war. Intends to visit Mary and Ralph while in London. Asks him again if he has received a cheque for £250 from his aunt's legacy. Advises him to write to her lawyers. She will forward his address to Birkenhead.

She has settled in with Mary and Ralph. Compares their baby, Barbara, with Clare. Describes Mary and Ralph's garden. Informs him she has purchased Shakespeare's Sonnets in the Temple edition. Intends to cut her trip short and head back to Westbrook. Expresses her admiration for Bridget. Discusses the meanings of Shakespeare's sonnets. Is looking forward to him coming home on leave.

She has read his letter to Ralph and Mary. Discusses his duties and living conditions as described in his last letter. Expresses her opinions about the progress of the war. Describes her walk with Clare and Mary. Discusses her thoughts on the fear of Hell and the merits of good behaviour. Intends to stay to see Henrietta Livingstone. Informs him his pamphlet has been read by Mr Clutton-Brock, Mr Arthur Benson, and Mr Fletcher and gives their opinions of it. Tells him she is proud of him. Describes the maps of Armentières and the trenches she was shown by Ralph. She hopes he does not have to see dead bodies.

Informs him that Robert Graves has been wounded and she intends to ask him to visit. Tells him that Ralph is to get leave and will go to Birkenhead with Mary. Describes her intended activities for the day. Asks him if he would like some apples to be sent out. Expresses her love for him. Intends to go to Alborough to find lodgings and will start at 8.30 and not get back until after 9.. Updates him on her father's trouble with male staff. Intends to have tea with Mrs Kendell.

Describes in detail her shopping trip to London and what her and Mildred bought. Describes how she will copy out his letters discussing Hell. Tells him about a letter from Mary describing being bombed. Expresses her concern for his safety. Discusses his previous letter about being cynical.

Discusses cutting back the ivy at the Holt. Updates him on Clare’s progress. Describes Violet’s visit to the dentist and tells him about her father’s health. Informs him of the feeling of depression sweeping through the country over the war. Discusses Mary and Ralph’s position in the war. Informs him she will not be meeting the Bishop but will be meeting Mrs Radcliffe and will gather him news of Charthouse. Discusses news on the war given to Mrs Reade by Geoffrey Young. Hopes that he will get leave soon.

Expresses her wish for him to be on leave. Describes her activities of the previous afternoon. Discusses the possibility of him learning book binding. Updates him on Clare’s progress. Describes the visit from the boy Johnstone [friend of Robert Graves] and the conversations they had. Asks him if he needs any more butter.

Tells him she misses him. Updates him on Clare's progress and discusses her future. Describes a walk to Munstead with Doris and Mildred. Reminisces about a walk they had together on the same route. She has heard from Mary and discusses Ralph going on a course. Discusses the progress of the war and arrangements for meeting him in London when on leave.

Tuesday 16 Jan. evening - Expresses her love for him. Tells him she is on the house furnishing committee. Updates him on her symptoms.

Wednesday 17 Jan. morning - Acknowledges his letter. Expresses her thoughts about him being taught to make fires. Describes her morning activities and the parcels she is sending him. Describes a letter from Mary and Ralph discussing a move to Camberly.

Update's him on her father's health. Describes the weather and her morning activities. Describes her pregnancy symptoms. Discusses her book The Dardanelle's Expedition. Tells him she is expecting a letter from his mother. Tells him she loves him.

Describes the weather and how she is not going to church. Updates him on Clare's teething and her father's health. Tells him she has not heard from Mary or Doris and that Ursula is coming to stay. Describes her dreams.

Acknowledges his last letter and hopes he is feeling better. Asks him if he has been given the staff job. Describes in detail his mother's visit. Discusses helping Mary and Barbara by inviting them to stay with her. Tells him about Trafford's leave. Updates him on Marjorie Waterhouse's visit. Tells him she is sending him a parcel.

Describes her trip into town with Marjorie. Tells him about her involvement in the baby welfare group. Informs him of the parcel of sausages and ginger she has sent. Updates him on her health. Discusses his mother's new diet to help with arthritis. Expresses her wish for the war to be over. Discusses her opinions on praying and the progress of the war. Tells him she loves and misses him.

Tells him that Bice has German measles and has postponed her visit. Informs him that she will stop sending him parcels until she knows where he is located. Tells him that Mary has accepted her invitation to stay when Ralph departs. Expresses how much she misses him. Discusses the progress of the war. Hopes for another letter from him soon.

Acknowledges and discusses his letters from the 1st and 3rd March. Reflects on how they may change in their marriage. Describes the weather and her surroundings. Describes saving a piglet from death. Describes her plans for the garden. Updates him on her father's health. Asks him if he would like some rhubarb.

Describes the weather and her surroundings. Expresses her anxiety over him being in danger. Tells him about the setback Mary Anne has experienced with letting her house. Informs him that Trafford has been sent back to the fighting. Asks him about his recent work laying two miles of wire. Is sorry to hear the rats ate his Cheshire cheese. Expresses her wish to be able to do real work. Tells him about six planes flying overhead to the Somme.

Describes taking Clare for a walk and her morning activities. Tells him about an invitation from his mother and why she won't go but tells him she will go to the Isle of Wight instead. Updates him on everyone she has heard from. Expresses how she misses him. Compares her first sightings of cars to Clare's first sightings of aeroplanes. Informs him that Barbara is arriving soon.

Acknowledges his letter of the 18th March. Updates him on Marjorie's working situation. Asks him about his reconnaissance mission. Discusses how much they should tell their children about the dangers of climbing. Asks him about his dugout. updates him on Clare's progress.

Acknowledges his last letter. Describes in detail how Ralph has measles and expresses her concern for everyone's health. Reflects on how different their life is now and what their life might be like when he is home. Expresses her irritation at having to rest in the afternoons.

Describes the weather. Tells him about the situation regarding the visitors and German Measles. Compares baby Barbara with Clare and describes how they get jealous of each other. Updates him on Clare's progress. Updates him on everyone's news. Expresses her love for him. Describes the mothers at Baby Welfare group.

Discusses cutting down on wheat flour. Describes a walk to gather primroses and tells him about how Clare enjoyed it. Tells him about an intended visit from Mary and about Mary's miscarriage scare. Expresses her wish to have a boy. Asks him what he thinks about.

Tells him she has been warmly welcomed and describes her feelings after he left. Describes in detail her visit to tour York Minister. Reassures him she is being looked after and sends him news of his parents. Updates him on Avie's health. Expresses her opinions on Mary and Ralph's friendship with Lord and Lady Nunburnholme. Hopes that peace will come soon.

Letter to Ruth Turner, written from Charterhouse School [Ruth was in Ireland with her family]

Was delighted her letter had arrived. The country sounded lovely and he wished he could walk the hills with her. Glad she loved the hills and was interested in Whymper’s ‘Scrambles’. They ought to have a proper climbing season that year in the Alps.

Had spent the morning altering the second four lines of the sonnet he was writing [See: MCPP/GM/3/1/1914/2] and gives her instructions on the metre and how best to read it. He hopes she will like it. He had been correcting Shakespeare papers and was behind with his correspondence. He had an aversion to the military and would like to discuss the subject more with her. He was a doubter in life with enough firm views for a firm foundation but liked to think and change his mind. Mary's [his sister] man Ralph Brooke was an instructor at Woolwich, and therefore both a school-master and a solider.

She wouldn't be lonely now she had the sonnet. He adds to the letter the next day asking her to date her letters.