Showing 1144 results

Member of the 1921 and 1922 British Mount Everest Expeditions.

Henry Morshead was born in 1882 and brought up near Tavistock. He was the eldest son of Reginald Morshead, a banker, and Ella Mary Morshead. He was educated at Winchester College. In 1901 (at the second attempt) he passed the exams to enter the Royal Military Academy, Woolwich, to become an officer in the Royal Engineers. At the Chatham Royal School of Military Engineering he had such a distinguished record that in 1904 he was posted to the Indian Army in the Royal Engineers' Military Works Services at Agra.

In 1906 he joined the Survey of India where, apart from his service in the First World War, he remained with the Survey until his death. He became knowledgeable in the history of Himalayan exploration, particularly in Tibet and distinguished himself on several arduous winter Himalayan expeditions.

In 1920 he accompanied Alexander Kellas in an attempt to climb the 25,447 ft (7,756 m) Kamet.

On the 1921 British reconnaissance expedition, Morshead led the Survey of India team which mapped 12,000 square miles (31,000 km2) of entirely unexplored country. During this expedition he climbed Kama Changri at 21,300 ft (6,500 m) and with George Mallory was the first to establish the camp on the 22,350 ft (6,810 m) Lhakpa La.

In the 1922 expedition, Morshead was a member of the Everest climbing party itself but because he had only been allowed leave at the last minute his expedition clothing had to be bought at Darjeeling bazaar and it was inadequate. On 20 May 1922 with Mallory, Howard Somervell and Teddy Norton, Morshead was in the first assault team, which attempted reaching the summit without oxygen. As the party left the North Col to head up towards the north east ridge, Norton's rucksack fell down to the glacier and this reduced the overnight clothing for camp V at 25,000 ft (7,600 m). The camp was at a higher altitude that anyone had ever been before. The next morning another rucksack was let slip but Morshead climbed down 100 ft (30 m) to recover it. However, on resuming the climb Morshead was almost immediately unable to continue and so went down to camp V while the other three continued. The team reached 26,985 ft (8,225 m) before turning back.

They joined Morshead at camp V who by then was very cold and all four immediately went down to camp IV on the North Col. On the way Morshead slipped and dragged two other men down the couloir. Mallory managed to stop the fall and saved everyone's lives. They reached camp at 23:30 but a logistical error had meant that the stove and fuel had been taken to a lower camp so there was no liquid water and no edible food. After surviving the night on the Col they descended to the glacier the next day but by then Somervell thought that Morshead was "not far from death". Norton, the expedition leader, wrote of him, "he kept going doggedly without complaint and in spite of a bad fall on an ice slope, knowing that the safety of the whole party depended on his determination to 'stay the course'". Morshead had severe frostbite to his hands and a foot and later three finger joints had to be amputated. However, at the time he hid the pain of his injuries from his colleagues.

For the 1924 Everest expedition Morshead was not considered able to participate as a climber because of his injuries but he was offered the role of base camp and transport officer. He had to turn this down because his employers would not give permission, even for unpaid leave. However, in the 1924 Olympic Games medals were awarded for mountaineering and Morshead received a special medal awarded to the climbers on the 1922 expedition.

In February 1931 Morshead stayed in Burma while the rest of the family returned to England for reasons of schooling. It was a time of unrest. A rebellion had started in Burma, against British rule, and Thakin rebels were in the vicinity of Maymyo. A colleague of Morshead had been shot at by a disaffected Survey employee who had been convicted of attempted murder. On 17 May 1931 Morshead set off riding by himself and later that day his riderless pony was discovered back in Maymyo. After extensive searching his body was found next day in the jungle nearby. He had been shot in the chest at point blank range. Two people were arrested, an ex-Gurkha who had been out shooting at the time, and the man whose gun he had been using. There was no apparent motive and no charges were ever brought because both men seemed to have alibis.

Major C. John Morris was a member of the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, serving as a transport officer and assistant to General Charles Bruce.

Major Charles John Morris was a British mountaineer, anthropologist and journalist, and controller of BBC Radio's Third Programme. He served as General Charles Bruce's personal secretary in 1922.

Morris served in the army from 1915 to 1934. After serving in the trenches during the First World War, he transferred to the Indian Army's 3rd Gurkha Rifles. He took part in two attempts to climb Mount Everest; the first under General Charles Granville Bruce and climbing leader Lt-Col Edward Lisle Strutt in 1924, and the second in 1936 under Hugh Ruttledge. On the latter, his personal servant was Tenzing Norgay, who made the first ascent of Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary in 1953.

He received an award from the Royal Geographical Society for his exploration of Chinese Turkistan, while still in the army. He retired from military service in the mid 1930s and taught English in Japan. He was Professor of English Literature, Keio University and lecturer at Imperial and Bunrika Universities, Tokyo from 1938 and also adviser on the English language to Japan's Dept. of Foreign affairs. He was repatriated by the Diplomatic corps after Japan's entry into the Second World War and joined the BBC, running their Far East service.

Morris was head of the BBC Far Eastern Service 1943–1952, and controller for the BBC Third Programme 1952–1958. From February 1943 to October 1943 he worked in the same department as George Orwell, at 200 Oxford Street.

He was made a Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 1957.

A Netherlandish portrait painter, much in demand by the courts of Europe. He has also been referred to as Antoon, Anthonius, Anthonis or Mor van Dashorst, and as Antonio Moro, António Mouro, Anthony More, etc., but signed most of his portraits as Anthonis Mor

Mildred married Major Robert Morgan.

Irish novelist and socialite.

A French sculptor best known for his bronze-cast figurines. His allegorical Art Nouveau works often depicted women, children, cherubs, and historical figures adorned with floral motifs and ornaments, and were influential to other artists working at the time. Born in Dijon, France in 1855 to a celebrated family of sculptors, including his father, Auguste Moreau, he went on to regularly exhibit his work at the Paris Salon from 1861 on. The artist died in 1919 in France.

Augustin Edme Moreau-Vauthier, (French, 1831-1893) exhibited La Fortune also referred to as L’Abondance, at the Paris Salon of 1878. the bronze has a gold patina, is signed with the foundry mark on the verso F. Barbedienne on the left side of base. Moreau Vauthier debuted in the Paris salon of 1857 with an ivory sculpture. Early in his career he simply signed Moreau but in 1865, he started working in bronze and signed his work with a hyphenated Moreau-Vauthier to distinguish himself from other sculptors who carried the Moreau signature such as Mathurin, Hippolyte and others who later became equally if not more successful.

Irish poet.

She married Edward Montagu MP (1625-1672), a cousin of Pepys, in 1642; he was created Earl of Sandwich in 1660; naval commander, and Pepys’s first patron. They had seven sons and two daughters. Part of Pepys’s inner circle: ‘her unfailing kindness to Pepys makes her one of the most attractive figures in the diary’ (Latham).

Mentioned by George Mallory.

Montagu, Edwin Samuel (1879–1924), politician, was born on 6 February 1879 at 12 Kensington Palace Gardens, London. He was the second son of Samuel Montagu, the first Baron Swaythling (1832–1911), a millionaire banker and later Liberal MP, and his wife, Ellen (1848–1919), daughter of Louis Cohen, a member of the prominent Jewish banking family of Liverpool. Henrietta Franklin (1866–1964) and Lilian Helen Montagu (1873–1963) were his elder sisters.

Frances Clare Mallory was known as Clare. She was George and Ruth's first child and eldest daughter. Her younger sister was Beridge (Berry) and her brother was John.

She married Glenn Millikan who died in a climbing accident in Tennessee in 1947. They had three sons, George, Richard, and Mark.

Philosopher, economist and advocate of women's rights.

Helga Michie was born in Linz, the twin sister of the writer Ilse Aichinger, and spent most of her school years in Vienna. When the Nazi persecutions began, the family tried to leave Austria, but only Helga’s aunt Klara Kremer, and Helga, were able to escape to England. Helga’s twin sister Ilse was left behind with their mother Berta, but managed to survive the Nazi occupation. The other close family members were deported to Minsk and murdered. The twins’ separation in 1939 was a thread which ran though their adult lives and work. It was ten years after this separation that the twins were reunited first in England and then in Austria. Ilse and Berta continued to live in Austria and Germany, while Helga returned to England, living and working mainly in London from then on near aunt Klara.

Helga began to draw using ball-point pen in the late 1960s, and then studied printing at The City Lit. Her work mainly spans the two decades 1968 to 1988.

Known as Clodion, a French Rococo sculptor. Noted for his versatility as an artist and for the lively charm of his figures, which included Grecian nymphs, cherubs, and gods, Clodion was both popular and celebrated in his day. One of his most famous works, Zephyrus and Flora (1799), depicts two fluid figures on the brink of a kiss, similar to the work of the Italian master Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Born on December 20, 1738 in Nancy, France into a family of artists, Clodion came under the tutelage of his uncle in 1755 and worked assisting him in his sculpture workshop. He quickly achieved his own professional success, receiving the grand prize for sculpture at the Académie Royale just four years later. Perhaps best best known for his small-scale terracotta sculptures, Clodion was collected by an international clientele and counted Catherine II among his admirers. At the height of his fame, he also sculpted the relief on the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in Munich. The artist eventually fell out with Parisian society after he was denied admission into the Académie Royale, and the oncoming French Revolution chased him for a time back to Nancy. Clodion died on March 29, 1814 in Paris, France.

South African painter who has exhibited extensively in South African and abroad specialising in landscapes and portraits (including portraits of Nobel laureates Nelson Mandela and FW De Klerk and concert pianist Vladimir Horowitz) in a photo-realist style. More recently he describes his work as falling into what he terms a "narrative genre" where paintings are often part of a series (usually three to six) of chronological scenes. He has exhibited at the Slater Memorial Museum (Connecticut) and the Everard Read Gallery (Johannesburg).

French portrait painter and miniaturist.