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Goodfellow, Alan
Persoon

Alan Goodfellow was a pupil of George Mallory at Charterhouse School. He joined Mallory on some of his climbing trips.

Persoon · 30 June 1870 - 22 May 1954

Albert Simon Aimé Bussy was a French painter who married the English novelist Dorothy Strachey Bussy. He knew and painted many members of the Bloomsbury circle and was friends with George Mallory.

Bussy was born in Dole and came from a family of shoemakers. He went from the drawing school in Dole to Gustave Moreau's studio in the École des beaux-arts de Paris, where he met and became friends with Henri Matisse. He received an honorable mention in 1894 at the Salon des artistes français for his Le Joueur de clarinette and Saint Georges terrassant le dragon. He showed a Portrait of Albert Machado in 1896. In 1897 he had his first solo exhibition at the Durand-Ruel gallery in Paris.

In 1901 Bussy visited London, where he came into contact with members of some English artistic circles, especially the Bloomsbury Group, and where he met Dorothy Strachey, who he married in 1903. Shortly after the wedding Simon and Dorothy moved to Roquebrune Cap Martin, in the south of France, where they bought a small house that soon became a meeting point for both French and English artists, writers and intellectuals. In addition to Dorothy's brother, the historian Lytton Strachey, and his cousin, the painter Duncan Grant, others included Rudyard Kipling, André Gide, Roger Fry, Vanessa Bell, Mark Gertler, Paul Valéry, Virginia Woolf, and Bernard Berenson. The painters Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault also visited.

Bussy was successful in the 1920s and 1930s, but his appreciation by both the public and critics declined after this time. He died in London in 1954, at the age of 88.

Pole, Reginald (1852-1934)
Persoon · 1852-1934

Nephew of actor William Poel. Created the Cambridge Marlowe Dramatic Society in 1907. Friend of George Mallory

Persoon · 4 April 1867 – 5 January 1950

Basil Williams was born in London on 4 April 1867, the only son of Frederick George Adolphus Williams, barrister, and his wife, Mary Katharine Lemon. He was educated at Marlborough College and New College, Oxford. He volunteered for service in the South African wars and then spent time working in the education department. After returning to England he dedicated himself to a career as an historian.

In 1905 he married Dorothy Caulfeild. They had two sons, one of whom (John) taught George Mallory to ski.

He died at 46 Amhurst Park, Stoke Newington, London, on 5 January 1950.

Persoon · 1851-1945

Gerald Rendall was born at Harrow, where his father was assistant master. He was educated at Harrow and at Trinity College, Cambridge, graduating BA as 4th Classic in 1874.

He was a fellow and assistant tutor at Trinity from 1875 to 1880. He was principal of University College, Liverpool, and Gladstone Professor of Greek in 1880-97, and then the headmaster of Charterhouse School 1897-1911. From 1891 to 1895 he was also Vice-Chancellor of the Victoria University.

His most important publications were on early Christian authors writing during the Roman empire and on their late pagan opponents such as Julian the Apostate and Marcus Aurelius.

Rendall was George Mallory's first Headmaster at Charterhouse, followed by Frank Fletcher.

Persoon · 1895-1980

Major C. John Morris was a member of the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition, serving as a transport officer and assistant to General Charles Bruce.

Major Charles John Morris was a British mountaineer, anthropologist and journalist, and controller of BBC Radio's Third Programme. He served as General Charles Bruce's personal secretary in 1922.

Morris served in the army from 1915 to 1934. After serving in the trenches during the First World War, he transferred to the Indian Army's 3rd Gurkha Rifles. He took part in two attempts to climb Mount Everest; the first under General Charles Granville Bruce and climbing leader Lt-Col Edward Lisle Strutt in 1924, and the second in 1936 under Hugh Ruttledge. On the latter, his personal servant was Tenzing Norgay, who made the first ascent of Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary in 1953.

He received an award from the Royal Geographical Society for his exploration of Chinese Turkistan, while still in the army. He retired from military service in the mid 1930s and taught English in Japan. He was Professor of English Literature, Keio University and lecturer at Imperial and Bunrika Universities, Tokyo from 1938 and also adviser on the English language to Japan's Dept. of Foreign affairs. He was repatriated by the Diplomatic corps after Japan's entry into the Second World War and joined the BBC, running their Far East service.

Morris was head of the BBC Far Eastern Service 1943–1952, and controller for the BBC Third Programme 1952–1958. From February 1943 to October 1943 he worked in the same department as George Orwell, at 200 Oxford Street.

He was made a Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 1957.

Persoon · 11 July 1892 - 14 November 1944

Born at Mobberley, near Knutsford, Cheshire, on 11 July 1892, the youngest of the two sons and two daughters of Herbert Leigh Mallory (1856–1943) and his wife Annie Beridge. His father hyphenated his surname in 1914. Trafford followed his example, but his brother, George Herbert Leigh Mallory did not.

Educated at St Leonards, Sussex (1902–6), Haileybury College (1906–11), and Magdalene College, Cambridge (1911–14), where he took history and law.

August 1914 - commissioned as a Second Lieutenant in the 4th Battalion of the Lancashire Fusiliers.
April 1915 - went to France with the 3rd Battalion of the South Lancashire Regiment.
June 1915 - wounded and returned to England.
18 August 1915 - married Doris Jean Sawyer in All Saints' Church, Upper Norwood, his father officiated. They had one son and one daughter.

January 1916 - transferred to the Royal Flying Corps. He qualified as a pilot in June, was promoted to Lieutenant, joined 7 squadron on the western front in July, and then transferred to 5 squadron in August. He was promoted to Captain and appointed a flight commander in November.

April 1917 - returned to England and was promoted to the rank of Major. When he returned to corps duties on the western front he commanded 8 squadron. His squadron was hard worked after March 1918 (when the stalemate of trench war ended) in close support of ground forces until the November armistice. His energy and efficiency earned respect but not admiration.

1 January 1919 - awarded a DSO
August 1919 - granted a permanent commission as a squadron leader
1921-1923 - School of Army Co-operation at Old Sarum, Wiltshire; 1927-1929 Commanding Officer
Jan 1925 - promoted to Wing Commander
1925-1926 - attended the RAF Staff College, Andover
1930-1931 - instructor at the Army Staff College, Camberley
January 1932 - promoted to Group Captain
1932-1933 - air adviser to the disarmament conference in Geneva
1934 - studied at the Imperial Defence College and commanded a flying training school at Digby, Lincolnshire, until December 1935
1935 - December 1937 - worked in Iraq as Senior Air Staff Officer at Command Headquarters
January 1936 - promoted to Air Commodore
December 1937 - appointed to command 12 group (responsible for defending the Midlands and East Anglia from a headquarters at Watnall, Nottinghamshire) in Fighter Command, even though he had no experience of fighter operations or the organisation of an air defence system.
November 1938 - promoted to Air Vice-Marshal

During the Second World War he was at odds with fellow officers over strategy and was accused of incompetence. He employed inexperienced pilots on offensive operations across the channel and many were lost for no tangible advantage.

November 1942 - became head of Fighter Command and was promoted to Air Marshal in December.

November 1943 - he was confirmed by the Combined Chiefs of Staff as Commander of the proposed allied expeditionary air force (AEAF) to support operation Overlord, the campaign to liberate occupied Europe.

January 1944 - promoted to Air Chief Marshal (he was appointed because he was there. Late in 1943, British and American airmen of greater ability, more varied experience, and hard-won mutual respect were still active in the Mediterranean.

August 1944 - Lord Louis Mountbatten, Supreme Allied Commander in South-east Asi,a asked that he go to India as Air Commander. He left Northolt for India in an Avro York on 14 November 1944. Shortly after midday it struck a mountain ridge in South-east France killing all ten people on board (including his wife). A court of inquiry found that the weather had been very poor on the day of the accident, but that Leigh-Mallory 'was determined to leave and he is known to be a man of forceful personality.' Sir Charles Portal, chief of the air staff, added that Leigh-Mallory had no need for such haste. Tragically, 'the desire to arrive in India on schedule with his “own” aircraft and crew overrode prudence and resulted in this disaster' (TNA: PRO, AIR 2/10593).

He was appointed CB in July 1940 and knighted in January 1943.

Article: 'Magdalene's other Mallory - Sir Trafford Leigh-Mallory' (John Mallory) (includes photos of Sir Trafford and John Mallory), College Magazine, No. 49 (2004-05)
Article - 'Trafford Leigh-Mallory - Commander of Controversy' by A.R. Thompson College Magazine, No. 55, 2010-11

Persoon · 1894-?

Karma Paul was a interpreter on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions, mentioned by name by George Mallory.

Among the climbers of the 1924 Third British Expedition to Everest Karma Paul had perhaps one of the least glamorous but most important jobs. He wasn't a climber, he never summited Everest, but as the group's translator his job was vital in communicating with the native Himalayan people and with the group's own Sherpa.

Karma Paul was fluent in Nepali, English and Tibetan and would serve as the translator for all the British expeditions from 1922 to 1938. Aside from his work as interpreter Paul also served as a recruiter and all-around moderator between the expedition and the native people.

Following the death of Sherpa Shamsher Pun from a likely blood clot on the brain, Paul was dispatched to the Rongbuk Monastery to see if the Sherpas, who were suffering low spirits following the death of young Pun, might be blessed by the head Lama there. The Lama agreed and invited the entire expedition to the monastery where he blessed them all and declared that they had been forced back by demons who would not do so again.

Following his career on Everest, Paul trained himself to be a skilled auto mechanic and in the 1950s won a small fortune at the horse races. He retired to Darjeeling.

Heber-Percy, Hugh
Persoon

Former Charterhouse pupil of George Mallory's. Part of a climbing party at Pen y Pass in Wales in 1915 before starting an officers' training course at Sandhurst.

Persoon · 1888-1974

Cottie Saunders was a friend of George Mallory's with whom she climbed in Wales. She married Owen O'Malley in 1913 and afterward called herself Mary Ann O'Malley. She was an author who wrote under the name Ann Bridge.

Nettleship, Ursula
Persoon

Music teacher and friend of the Turners and George Mallory who was part of the Pen y Pass climbing parties.

A Ceremony of Carols was dedicated to Ursula Nettleship, a singing teacher and choral trainer who was later responsible for assembling the choir that took part in the first performance of Britten’s Saint Nicolas in 1948. (She had shared a house in Chelsea with Britten and Pears in the autumn of 1942, and helped secure them concert engagements through her work with the Council for the Encouragement of Music and the Arts.)

Persoon · 1856–1943

Herbert Leigh-Mallory was a clergyman and the father of George Mallory, Trafford Leigh-Mallory, the World War II Royal Air Force commander, and 2 daughters Mary and Avie. He changed his surname from Mallory to Leigh-Mallory in 1914. He was married to Annie Beridge (1863-1946) and they lived in a ten bedroom house on Hobcroft Lane in Mobberley.

Persoon · 19 January 1802 – 23 May 1874

Van de Weyer served as Belgium’s Prime minister from July 1845 to March 1846. However, he lived for the majority of his life in London (17 Fitzroy Square, 50 Portland Place) and Windsor (New Lodge), and held the office of Belgian Minister at the Court of St. James’s under Queen Victoria, an ambassadorial role. Van de Weyer was close friends with Lord Palmerston. In addition to being a member of the Roxburghe Club, Van de Weyer was a founder member of the Philobiblon Society, the Vice President of the London Library, a Member of the Société des Bibliophiles de Belgique and the Head of the Royal Library of Brussels.
Pierre Henri Laurent said of Van de Weyer: 'His manners, taste, and savoir-faire brought him into the vital center of the intellectual, diplomatic, and financial communities. His home became the meeting place of writers, artists, and scientists’.

Persoon · 24 July 1895 - 7 December 1985

Robert Graves had been a pupil at Charterhouse when George Mallory was a Master there. Mallory introduced him to contemporary literature and took him mountaineering in the holidays.

At the outbreak of the First World War Graves enlisted taking a commission in the 3rd Battalion of the Royal Welch Fusiliers as a second lieutenant (on probation) on 12 August. He was confirmed in his rank on 10 March 1915, and received rapid promotions to lieutenant on 5 May 1915 and to captain on 26 October.

He published his first volume of poems, Over the Brazier, in 1916. He developed an early reputation as a war poet and was one of the first to write realistic poems about the experience of frontline conflict. At the Battle of the Somme, he was so badly wounded by a shell-fragment through the lung that he was expected to die and was officially reported as having died of wounds. He gradually recovered and, apart from a brief spell back in France, spent the remainder of the war in England.