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Friend and Biographer of George Mallory.

Born on 29 April 1886 in Hampstead, London, the sixth of the seven children of William Arthur Pye, wine merchant, and his wife, Margaret Thompson. Educated at Tonbridge School and Trinity College, Cambridge and was placed in the first class of the mechanical sciences tripos in 1908. In 1909 C. F. Jenkin invited Pye to join him in Oxford and he was elected a fellow of New College in 1911.

During the First World War, Pye taught at Winchester College (1915–16), then worked as an experimental officer in the Royal Flying Corps on design and testing, and learned to fly as a pilot. In 1919 he returned to Cambridge as a lecturer, and became a fellow of Trinity where he met Henry Tizard and Harry Ricardo. This association led to important pioneer work on the internal combustion engine.

In 1926 Pye married Virginia Frances, daughter of Charles Moore Kennedy, barrister. They had two sons and a daughter.

Pye's The Internal Combustion Engine (2 vols., 1931–4) was published in the Oxford Engineering Science series, of which he became an editor. In 1925 he was appointed deputy director of scientific research at the Air Ministry. He succeeded him as director in 1937 and in the same year was appointed CB and elected FRS. During the early war years he became closely associated with the development of the new jet propulsion aircraft engine which he did much to encourage.

In 1943 Pye accepted the provostship of University College, London. Serious illness forced him to resign in 1951. He was knighted in 1952 and in the same year became president of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers.

Pye was an enthusiastic climber and in 1922 was elected to the Alpine Club of which he became vice-president in 1956. He was a friend of George Mallory's and on his and Andrew Irvine's loss he wrote: Those two black specks, scarcely visible among the vast eccentricities of nature, but moving up slowly, intelligently, into regions of unknown striving, remain for us a symbol of the invincibility of the human spirit.

Geoffrey Winthrop Young was born in 1876 and was the son of Sir George Young and Alice Eacy. He was educated at Marlborough College and Trinity College, Cambridge. He was one of the most famous British mountaineers before the First World War. He met George Mallory at a dinner in Cambridge in February 1909 and they remained close friends often climbing together at the climbing parties at Pen y Pass (these were gatherings of leading climbers in Snowdonia). Geoffrey was Mallory's best man at his wedding to Ruth. He served in Belgium and France during the First World War as a war correspondent for the Daily News. He founded and commanded the Friends' Ambulance Unit in Flanders, and served mostly at Ypres. In August 1917 he was severely wounded and had his left leg amputated above the knee. After the War he continued to write and climb with only one leg. In 1918 he married Eleanor Slingsby and had 2 children. He died in 1958 and his ashes were scattered on the peaks above Pen y Pass.

Geoffrey Bruce was a member of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions.

He was an officer in the British Indian Army, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new mountaineering world record height of 8,300 metres (27,300 ft), only 520 metres (1,700 ft) below the summit of Mount Everest.

Edward Leigh (1913-1998)

Working Dates: 1946 -1983

One of the few professional photographers to obtain a prestigious Fellowship of the Royal Photographic Society as well as a Fellowship of the Institute of British Photographers, the professional photographers' own body, Edward Leigh has been described as a true artist with a camera. His photographic career spanned over 50 years. Before WW2 he worked as a fashion photographer and a stills cameraman for Fox Film Studios, later 20th Century Fox. During the war his printing skills were employed by RAF Oakington to process at great speed the aerial recognisance photographs which were assembled into the mosaic maps used by Bomber Command.

After the war Edward set up his own studio on Kings Parade in the centre of Cambridge, living on the premises. Edward did a great deal of work for University Departments and Cambridge Colleges, from groups of freshers to graduation ceremonies, visiting Royals to portraits of fellows and, one of his many favourite assignments, work for the Peyps Library at Magdalene College. Many of his architectural photographs have been used for decades in books on Cambridge. He was a much sought after industrial photographer, skilled in the use of lighting and good at composition.

When Edward retired, his son John Edward Leigh took over the business, still at 22 Derby Road, Cambridge, which he listed as specialising in advertising photography, for a short period around 1983-85, before the business finally closed.

Working for Edward Leigh at different times were Doug Rattle, Peter Lofts and Frank Bird.

Known as Clodion, a French Rococo sculptor. Noted for his versatility as an artist and for the lively charm of his figures, which included Grecian nymphs, cherubs, and gods, Clodion was both popular and celebrated in his day. One of his most famous works, Zephyrus and Flora (1799), depicts two fluid figures on the brink of a kiss, similar to the work of the Italian master Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Born on December 20, 1738 in Nancy, France into a family of artists, Clodion came under the tutelage of his uncle in 1755 and worked assisting him in his sculpture workshop. He quickly achieved his own professional success, receiving the grand prize for sculpture at the Académie Royale just four years later. Perhaps best best known for his small-scale terracotta sculptures, Clodion was collected by an international clientele and counted Catherine II among his admirers. At the height of his fame, he also sculpted the relief on the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in Munich. The artist eventually fell out with Parisian society after he was denied admission into the Académie Royale, and the oncoming French Revolution chased him for a time back to Nancy. Clodion died on March 29, 1814 in Paris, France.

Bentley Beetham was an English mountaineer, ornithologist and photographer, and a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition.

Bentley Beetham was born in Darlington in 1886, the second son of James Weighell Beetham and his wife Frances. His father was a bank manager and died when Beetham was four years old. Until the age of eight Beetham was educated at Mr Bowman's Preparatory School; he then attended the Queen Elizabeth's Grammar School, Darlington. From 1899 to 1903 he attended the North Eastern County School where he was a boarder. He left school at the age of sixteen.

Initially he worked in an architect's office in Darlington and then between 1903-1914 he was busy with field research, writing books and articles, photography and giving lectures. In

1914, having established himself as a leading ornithologist, he returned to the North Eastern County School to teach natural history.
Beetham started rock climbing in the Lake District where he used Wasdale Head as a base and became fiends with Howard Somervell. Together they made ascents of the classic Lakeland climbs in the period before the First World War. After the war, Beetham and Somervell started climbing in the Alps. In 1924 they were both chosen to join the 1924 Everest Expedition.

In 1927 he was elected a member of the Royal Geographical Society.

In 1949 he retired and in 1962 he was disabled by a stroke. He spent his last year in a nursing home, where he died on 5 April 1963.

John de Vars Hazard was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition.

Major Richard William George Hingston was an Irish physician, explorer and naturalist, and was the medical officer on the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition.

He was the son of Reverend Richard Edward Hull Kingston of Aglish, County Waterford, and Frances Sandiford. Most of his early life was spent in the family home at Horsehead in Passage West, County Cork. He was educated at Merchant Taylors' School and at University College Cork. He graduated from the National University of Ireland with first-class honours in 1910, and almost immediately obtained a position in the Indian Medical Service. In 1913, he was seconded from military duty as naturalist to the Indo-Russian Pamir triangulation expedition. In 1914 he went on war service and saw action in East Africa, France, Mesopotamia, and the N.W. Frontier, gaining two mentions in dispatches and the Military Cross for gallantry in action. He wrote several books based on his travels and natural history observations.

Edward Shebbeare was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition, serving as transport officer. He was the deputy leader and transport officer of the 1933 expedition and served as transport officer on the 1929 German Kanchenjunga expedition. In 1928, he was a founding member of The Himalayan Club. He was also a keen naturalist, particularly interested in rhinoceros and elephant conservation. In 1940, he was the founding president of the Malayan Nature Society.

Mentioned by George Mallory.

Pamela Frances Audrey Bulwer-Lytton (née Chichele-Plowden), Countess of Lytton, (1873 or 1874-1971), Society beauty; wife of 2nd Earl of Lytton; daughter of Sir Trevor John Chichele-Plowden.

John was George Mallory's third and youngest child and only son. He had two sisters Clare and Beridge. John donated his father's letters to the College.

Friend and employer of George Mallory.

David Herbert Somerset Cranage was the son of Dr Joseph Edward Cranage of Old Hall, Wellington, Shropshire and was educated at King's College, Cambridge. He was ordained in 1897 and he held curacies at Little Wenlock (1897–98) and Much Wenlock (1898–1902) in Shropshire. He was an academic at the University of Cambridge, where he lectured on mediaeval churches and was Secretary of the Local Lectures Syndicate, until his appointment as Dean of Norwich, a post he held for 19 years.

He appointed George Mallory to his position as lecturer and assistant secretary in the Cambridge University Board of Extramural Studies in 1923.

He died on 22 October 1957, aged 91.

Hugh Thackeray Turner was born in Foxearth, Essex, the son of Rev. John Richard Turner (a Church of England vicar) and his wife Harriet.

After leaving Newbery Grammar School he was apprenticed to the architect Sir George Gilbert Scott. In 1877 Turner began work on his own account. He was also employed by Scott's sons, John Oldrid and George Gilbert junior, becoming the latter's chief assistant.

Turner left Scott's office to become Secretary for The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (founded by William Morris in 1877). His job was to investigate, inspect and report on buildings at risk from insensitive restoration. He held the post until 1911.

On 19 July 1888 he married Mary Elizabeth (May) Powell (1854–1907). May became a leading member of the arts and crafts movement in her own right, exhibiting needlework and founding the Women's Guild of Arts with May Morris. The couple had three daughters, the second of whom, Ruth, married George Mallory in July 1914.

In 1898 Turner designed his own home Westbrook in Godalming, which with the assistance of Gertrude Jekyll's assistance was surrounded by a much admired garden.

After a long retirement he died of pyelonephritis on 11 December 1937 in London.

Sister of Ruth Mallory, wife of George Mallory.

Assistant Master of Rugby School, 1894-1903; Master of Malborough College, 1903-1911 (first layman to hold this post); Headmaster of Charterhouse, 1911-1935. He was Headmaster of Charterhouse during George Mallory's time there. In 1902 he married Dorothy Pope. He was knighted in 1937.

Edward Wymper was a mountaineer who wrote Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the years 1860-1869 which was one of the most popular mountaineering books ever written.

Alan Goodfellow was a pupil of George Mallory at Charterhouse School. He joined Mallory on some of his climbing trips.

A member of the Royal Geographical Society and Alpine Club.

Albert Simon Aimé Bussy was a French painter who married the English novelist Dorothy Strachey Bussy. He knew and painted many members of the Bloomsbury circle and was friends with George Mallory.

Bussy was born in Dole and came from a family of shoemakers. He went from the drawing school in Dole to Gustave Moreau's studio in the École des beaux-arts de Paris, where he met and became friends with Henri Matisse. He received an honorable mention in 1894 at the Salon des artistes français for his Le Joueur de clarinette and Saint Georges terrassant le dragon. He showed a Portrait of Albert Machado in 1896. In 1897 he had his first solo exhibition at the Durand-Ruel gallery in Paris.

In 1901 Bussy visited London, where he came into contact with members of some English artistic circles, especially the Bloomsbury Group, and where he met Dorothy Strachey, who he married in 1903. Shortly after the wedding Simon and Dorothy moved to Roquebrune Cap Martin, in the south of France, where they bought a small house that soon became a meeting point for both French and English artists, writers and intellectuals. In addition to Dorothy's brother, the historian Lytton Strachey, and his cousin, the painter Duncan Grant, others included Rudyard Kipling, André Gide, Roger Fry, Vanessa Bell, Mark Gertler, Paul Valéry, Virginia Woolf, and Bernard Berenson. The painters Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault also visited.

Bussy was successful in the 1920s and 1930s, but his appreciation by both the public and critics declined after this time. He died in London in 1954, at the age of 88.

Gyalzen Kazi was a climbing sherpa, interpreter, and sardar on the 1921, 1922, and 1924 Mount Everest Expeditions. George Mallory mentioned him by name.

Climbing sherpa on 1921 Mount Everest Expedition with George Mallory, mentioned by name.

Climbing sherpa on 1921 Mount Everest Expedition with George Mallory.

Climbing sherpa on 1921 Mount Everest Expedition with George Mallory, mentioned by name.

Climbing sherpa on 1921 Mount Everest Expedition with George Mallory, mentioned by name.

Friend of George Mallory, born in Ireland, wife of Brigadier Walter Headfort Brooke.

Lee Keedick acted as the tour manager and press agent for George Mallory's lecture tour of North America and Canada in 1923

Nephew of actor William Poel. Created the Cambridge Marlowe Dramatic Society in 1907. Friend of George Mallory

Mentioned by George Mallory in letters to his wife Ruth Mallory in 1923.