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Letter to Ruth Mallory written from Pen y Pass on Wednesday

He and Reade had spent the day climbing on Lliwedd. The mist was thick and there was snow around. He lead and was in quite good form. He had worn two shirts which was an excellent way of clothing himself.

Conor O’Brien did not arrive last night as the steamers from Ireland were not running in daylight for fear of submarines. He had arrived that morning after they had left for the day. The fourth member of the party couldn’t come at all.

Alan was more responsible and soberer. The constant need for control, thought and care had matured him. This meant he was less interesting than usual. He would stick at his job after the war and it was a shame he hadn’t gone to the Varsity. He would always be one of the nicest of people.

Is concerned about her health and asks if the reason for her high temperature was milk fever and whether Clare was now taking a bottle. Hopes she will enjoy her part in Mildred’s wedding and asks who will cook for her guests at the Holt. Hopes Mildred took his letter to her well as he feared it might have come across as rather a lecture. Asks her to date her letters.

Postscript - the clouds had lifted and the glass had gone up so they ought to have a fine day, rather windy and cold.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from the Grand Hotel, Littlestone-on-Sea, Kent

He had left Weymouth and been allocated quarters in Lydd which was an empty house and he was kitless. He had finally got permission to travel on to Littlestone-on-Sea and he was glad of dinner at 9pm when he arrived.

It was only a 3 week course and Friday morning leave was a myth. He wouldn't finish until 12.30pm on Saturdays and would probably have evening work 5-6pm. He had to be at Lydd that morning. He would try New Romney for rooms which was 1 1/2 miles away. He would send her an address if he could but if she didn't hear from him she was to bike along and enquire.

He had been trying to find rooms for them and had talked to different landladies but he hadn't finalised anything yet. Wonders what Clare's weight was that week.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received her lovely letters. The Captain was due back tomorrow. Bell’s move had been put on hold and he had put in for leave. Speculates on when he would get leave.

Discusses likely terms for the end of the war. Doubted it was possible to draw up terms which would prevent the Russians from exercising their old influence in Central Europe and the Balkans. Wonders at what point the price paid would be sufficient. If Germany were likely to collapse it would be advisable to carry on until that point but he doubted that would happen.

News of Clare was enchanting. Hopes she is better from the attack of vomiting.

Had heard from Harold Porter who was happy in his job of divisional signalling officer. Had heard from Brother Giles who was in Cambridge on a cadet course. Mentions the Greens [who were renting their house, the Holt] and the arrangements he had made with them about coal. Was missing her and looking forward to seeing her.

[Postscript written at 3.30pm on 23 Nov in pen] - was just back from a reconnaissance in their front line which had been an extraordinarily interesting and strenuous day in indescribable conditions. Was waiting for his batman to bring water in the hope of having a hot bath in his dugout.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France, 'Nov 25 1915' [it is actually 1916]

The Captain thought, as they all did, that he did too much himself so they were taking it in turns doing the Battery Commander work. He had begun today and was in the Captain’s dugout and was in charge of the battery so far as shooting was concerned, orders from HQ, ammunition etc.

Yesterday he had been to the observation post taking Dunbar’s turn so he could get a job finished but the light was bad so he didn’t succeed. It was atrociously cold. Some pleasant infantry fellows were occupying the trench. They shared lunch and chatted around a fire.

Had been writing a report about his reconnaissance which was a voluntary stunt which be thought was interesting and hoped would be useful.

He was beginning to have little hope of leave in the near future. Had received her letters and was glad that Clare was better. It was splendid to hear of her standing. Didn’t want her to become bandy legged. The song books had arrived as well as a chocolate cake.

Thanked Mrs W. for her noble efforts.

He had managed to have a hot bath which was the first since he had been out there.

‘It’s been soaking wet all day’ is written up the margin.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Full Transcript

Dearest Ruth,

I’m sitting in a café at a village on a main road which acts as our advanced base whither I have been sent on an errand to the Field Cashier. I can get this posted here, and have a few moments.

This also is part a foraging expedition and the driver luckily knew of a farmhouse where many things are sold – quite a number of farms hereabouts have become provision shops but the usual difficulty is that they have no provisions. Today we have been very lucky and I have somewhat prepared for goodness knows what future. I too am afraid that correspondence is going to be difficult but I think I may get letters from you at intervals of 3 or 4 days on the average. You see our lorries have to bring us provisions and ammunition at frequent intervals and the ordinary way is for the ration lorry to bring the mails. Of course I can’t guess what may happen. I don’t suppose we shall be in Berlin in a fortnight but its clear that life will be a very different affair for us if the Army continues digging in shallowed trenches and so on!

I think it would perhaps be a good plan to write to me every other day for the present. Will you try and tell me as much as you can about the people about you who seem to be very numerous just now. I am glad you should have the feeling towards baby that makes you want to have her to yourself all the time – but you won’t let her come too much in the way of other sides of life will you my dear? We’ve talked of that – still I think from your last letter that you seem to be almost too absorbed in Clare at the moment. Your letters vary very much (I expect mine do too) – sometimes more thoughtful than others so that I sometimes feel that your mind has control and sometimes the feelings have it all their own way. I do hope you haven’t many despairing moments.
I expect you keep pretty cheerful and interested too, that’s the main thing.

This must end. I have to fly.
All my love, your George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Aug 24 1916'

Was feeling a bit better. Her letter had arrived quickly. Still no date for leaving rest camp. She wasn’t to be anxious about winter as there would be less fighting and so less chances to be killed. He had his job and time passed quickly but it must be harder for her. Thought Clare must have changed since he last saw her.

Was pessimistic about the war and asks why they hadn’t done anything about Salonica. Everything in that area depended on Romania coming in which would only give two months to cut communications between Germany and Turkey before winter set in. Thought that with Romania's help Russia would be able to beat Austria. Hungary would be less willing to make terms if Romania cames in. Very strongly thought they should take stock after the Autumn campaigns and offer terms accordingly. Didn’t doubt they would win eventually. Thought Germany could defend herself for at lest two more years and practically nothing was worth two more years of war.

25 Aug – had finished the letter but had mislaid her Aldeburgh address, which he had now found, so was writing more. He would be in camp all day and was reading a French book by Rene Bazin about Breton peasants. Discusses places in the book and why he would like to visit Brittany and how he views rural England from a distance.

Hadn’t yet received the apples or grapefruit and asks where she sent them. Suggests that she use wooden boxes and tells her how to make them. Thinks a plum cake is the one most likely to survive the transport. Doesn’t need any more soup tablets.
Had just received and eaten a grapefruit which was delicious but barely ripe so he would save the others.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 6 1916'

Unpleasant afternoon spend at an inquiry into which battery had been firing into their own trenches. Describes why it was all so hateful.

Had enjoyed working on the ante-room. Had gone into Albert to get a stove to warm them but had been unsuccessful. Had enjoyed a chat with the old woman in the ironmongery and come away with another oil lamp.

Had received the good news of the capture of the Combles by the French.

Comments on her letter and the childish activities that can be enjoyed by the seaside. Asks if the seaside made any difference to Clare.

Was lying on his bed in pyjamas. All their dug-outs had been christened for the convenience of the guards. His was called ‘Fathom Five’. Was off to sleep as breakfast was at 7.30am and he had very poor sleep in a chair the night before.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, '25.9.16'

Had been on night duty. For breakfast he boiled water to make tea, then put on a little porcelain dish in which he melted butter and fried two eggs with raspberry jam to follow. Then an apple. Had got the butter and eggs in Corbie where he had gone to get potatoes for the men. Had climbed an apple tree to shake down some apples. Thanks her for sending the cake and butter.

Was pleased by her account of Clare’s birthday and was anxious to see her again. Liked the photos and that she looked attractive when her face was in motion. Discussed Clare and her physical and intellectual development.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Sept 26 1916'

Liked the high position so had arranged with Dunbar that he would stay there all day and go back to the battery for dinner.
Had been a great day with Thiepval taken all the high ground south of Grandcourt. A lot of prisoners had been taken passed them and many casualties too. Describes how he thinks the battle will continue and the advantages in their favour. Thought the Germans gave themselves up more easily than before and Bell reported the prisoners he saw were quite happy. Hoped the Russians could get on again. Got the impression they were now doing what they were meant to do.

Describes the dugout where he is writing from, the two signallers at the telephone (one asleep and one keeping watch with a magazine) and the dull noise of the guns. Was using the Morning Post as a tablecloth because the table was so dirty.

Had received letters from her. Says what he doesn’t like about the National Mission. Asks her to think carefully over her attitude towards the type of parish work she describes.

Pleased to hear that Clare is crawling and asks news about her father’s fall.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 4 6.30am'

Had to go on obervation duty which would be difficult as the line was rather muddled. It had been raining again and everything was in a horrid mess and had stopped operations. The last two days had been very quiet. He was still in his old dug out. Lithgow was with the left half forward position. They should have all been together but the digging hadn’t got on due to firing and wet weather.

Acknowledges receipt of the cake. Had been looking at the photos of Clare again.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France during the Battle of the Somme, 'Oct 22 1916'

Apologises for missing two days before writing as he had been dining with the 109 battery and then unexpectedly been observing. Had received three letters from her and was glad Clare was alright and she was better from her illness. Thanks her for the ginger cake.

It was very cold already and it was still Autumn so asks her to send him two pairs of warm pyjamas, two short woollen drawers (hard to get), two medium woollen vests, two thick flannel shirts, and a face towel.

Was interested in the Arts and Crafts exhibition. Asks if she had been to a private view and wants very much to see it with her.

Had seen Earl who was more depressed and tired than the last time. He disliked the whole business more than most and was in an uncomfortable battery having to use clumsy great ammunition. Earl was delighted to hear about her gift of potpourri.

Lithgow was giving himself a rest so he and Bell were doing most of the observation work which he describes.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'Feb 3 1917'

Was sorry to hear how ill her father was and that he had a lack of desire to live.

Describes the death of Boal who had been wounded after observing at the observation post.

He had been making shelves all morning. He had made a letter rack which was useful if people would use it. It was impossible to achieve a modest standard of comfort without tidiness as they lived at such close quarters.

They had received yesterday’s paper with the text of the German Note to Neutrals which he felt was an admission of weakness.
Was glad she had sent away the unfavoured nurse and advises her to interest her father in everything. Was glad he liked to see Clare.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 1 1917'

He didn’t have time to write to her yesterday as he had to go to a meeting of intelligence officers and then a walk with the Colonel. Describes a visit to his old battery where he saw Wood and Glen who was in charge whilst Lithgow was at home on special leave. They wanted him to return to them once his current posting was finished. He would be very happy to return to them. He didn’t have great hopes about the staff job and wouldn’t set his heart on it.

Had received lots of letters from her. Was glad she liked his literary notebook idea and was glad to hear news about Clare. When he came home he would like to find her waiting for him at the Holt. They would walk out into the Loggia and stroll about their small domain looking at the plants and then go up to the nursery.

Describes what flowers and plants were out in the woods and asks what was out at home. Thinks they may start fighting again before the Spring. He had motored over to a village to put a marble plaque on a grave at the request of the Captain when he was with the French. Describes the decorations on the graves.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'March 24 1917'

Was a great pleasure to receive three letters from her yesterday and one today. He was delighted by the photos of Clare. Was sorry she wouldn’t have Diana with her and that the O’Malleys had had such bad luck over their house. Would like to hear from Mary Ann but supposes she is too busy. The chocolates she sent were a great success and the plums continued to be so. It would be a mistake to send more uncooked sausages as the weather should soon be really warm. Asks for his tent as the Germans had destroyed practically all their dug outs so they would be short of stores for the foreseeable future. Also wants her to send back his shirt and pyjamas but not the underclothes, ½ pint enamel mugs, and a small pocket torch with a metal filament lamp and six refills.

Gives his views about the Russians.

Asks her to send him Wells’s book as he had seen it reviewed and gathered that he was very unfair to the regular soldier.

Was feeling depressed and out of temper yesterday. They were living in very close quarters with seven of them living in the mess from tea time onwards. They were happy but noisy sand not much room for writing a letter or quiet reading. Had been on long walks, today with Lithgow and Glen and they investigated a very pleasant little copse. Was anxious t get in and help beat the enemy. Wasn’t depressed today but didn’t anticipate any very immediate action.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 3 and April 4 1917'

They had been very busy preparing the roads for their advance.
Had got very wet the previous evening as had the signallers who didn't have their coats and the storm was so bad it was impossible to carry out any observation.

4th April - had been unable to finish the letter the previous evening as he had been busy. Didn't like the way Lithgow discussed battery business all through meals but he was very good at his job and he was always in agreement with his schemes and was very willing to serve under him. He liked the strenuous life.

The right half were under canvas and he had expected to leave their comfortable billets before now but the advance had been held up. When hey did move it would be tents and cellars which was fine in good weather but miserable in the current weather. It was now snowing.

He had sent two parcels of books back to her. The Ages of Man was very good but the others wouldn't interest her as she didn't read French. He would send back The New Europe as far as he had read. It was very well done and full of interesting things. He would arrange for it to be sent to her so she could read it before sending it on to him.

He was sending back a parcel of her letters, his drawers (which had been burnt by his servant when drying them near the fire) and the oil silk cape. The pockets were in a ridiculous place and he had torn it when getting out of a car wearing it and asks that if it could be mended to return it to him.

Discusses the reasons for the lack of leave, who had been out longest, and who should be prioritised.

Asks questions about Clare - how her walking was progressing and whether she was talking yet. Thought her disposition might be taciturn considering how reserved her parents were.

Disagrees with her comments about tanks.

Thanks her for parcel of sausages and dates which were excellent and they would try the cream tonight.

Wonders how Bob and Mildred would like Ogwen Cottage and supposes they would fish

[last page is missing]

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France on 'April 19 1917'

Had been reading the six letters that had arrived from her and discusses the news in them mainly about friendships and their daughter Clare.

He had shared the dug out with an infantry man who had got very wet and was shivering. They messed together all day but the infantry man had to stay another 24 hours. The infantry had to endure bad times and had a much worse time of it. Showed the Colonel around and he had been praised for his work liaising with the infantry. The Colonel said he would tell the General. Wood was returning and Dunbar was going on a course. A treat that he had refused.

He had received a letter from Lieutenant Bonneau [whom he had met when he was liaison officer with the French] and it was settled they would stay with him and his wife in Paris after the war and then they would visit them.

Yesterday he wore a thick vest, two flannel shirts, a woolly waistcoat, a thin tunic and a mackintosh and was moderately warm.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received three lovely letters from her including one in which she talks about their views on religion. One of letters must have gone astray as he found out she had recovered before he knew that she was ill.

He hadn’t been surprised by the armistice once he had heard the result of the Versailles conference. Hoped there wouldn’t be anarchy in Germany. There was no indication of it merely a bloodless revolution they could heartily welcome. Any attempt at a coup by the wealthy would be disastrous but he didn’t think it was much to be feared. The end of the war, so far, had been perfect.

The Daily Mail was still talking about peace traps and political camouflage. Was this amazing blindness or wilful folly? Had she seen Carson’s speech about Lord Northcliffe? It pleased him very much.

Was surprised and delighted to hear her father was progressing so well and he might be walking again soon.
Was interested to hear about Clutton Brock’s book. If he might send him a copy then she should wait before buying one.
He had received The Alpine Journal, three pamphlets from the Civic Arts Association and a New Europe. The A.C. looked dull, except his article.

She asked if it was too early to start teaching Clare about God. He thought it was but didn’t know when they should start.

When he had met Geoffrey they had talked and talked. Geoffrey had been in close contact with Cosmo Gordon for the past 2 years. They had met when Gordon had been in the operating theatre near to Geoffrey’s location and had asked to se him.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Was staying with Trafford on his was back from Paris. He had completed his purchases of books and was on the way to the library when he went back to look at a picture in a shop he had seen the day before. The artist arrived while he was still in the shop. He was a young man injured in the leg during the war and he arranged to go and visit his studio. Describes the painting and whether they should buy it. Asked the artist to paint Clare if were to come to England.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Sends his Christmas wishes for her and describes the new room he has moved into a short distance from the mess. He would be able to spend a great deal of time there except for occasional duties as orderly officer and a French class he was going to start for a few of the men.

Morning - the bed was comfortable. He was busy writing Xmas letters and would write to Mary and Mary Ann. He was annoyed they had rushed them out of the Holt but it wasn’t their fault. He thought it was Fletcher’s fault as he should have found out that demobilisation would be taken out of the hands of the War Office as soon as the armistace was signed and so applied for his release before the armistace and then let him refuse if the war had continued. He should have let them know at once that the arrangements had fallen through.

Was glad she was getting on well about servants. £35 sounded a lot for wages but supposed paying extra was worth it for good servants. Hadn’t heard if he had secured the purchase of the painting in Paris. What would she do about labour for the garden at the Holt? It might take 9 months to get demobilised but might not take that long.

Had two photos of her and Clare on his mantlepiece. Sends his love to her father, Mildred and Marjorie, the Lawrence Turners and the Haves Turners.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Is keen to know what she and everyone at home thinks about the German Note and wants to see the English newspapers and describes how it is being reported in the Continental press. He thinks the journalists misunderstand the German and particularly the Prussian psychology which he sets out.

He wants to know what her father thinks of it all and asks her to tell him what he [George] thinks.

Was finding G. Young's Balkans amazingly good and was studying Othello.

Letter to Ruth Mallory written from France

Had received two letters from her and was interested in all her London plans and sent his love to all the people she hoped to meet. Hoped she would get to see Doris [sister in law, married to Trafford Leigh-Mallory] as he wanted to know what was wrong.

Was pleased she was getting on so well with Montessori and that Clare liked the buttoning frame. She should exclude other sorts of toys now. Mrs Irvine would be an excellent person to work with. She had always been friendly. He wasn’t so sure about Mr Irvine but thought he must be a good chap and it made a great difference having congenial neighbours.

Thought there was a good chance of Germany accepting terms. The surrender of Austria and Turkey was very opportune.

Had spent an amusing day yesterday making the shelves for the curtain. There was a certain amount of fitting to be done but he had done a good job. He had fallen in love with the curtains and wondered if they could be used for their bedroom at the Holt.

Letter from George to Ruth Mallory from France

It was only 10 days until term started and he still hadn’t got his release. When was she moving into the Holt? Was sure he would come in for the move. No move would be complete without him.

She mentioned Mr Brooke several times. Thought he had met him at Brooke Hall and expected him to be quite interesting. Did she see the Head Master’s speech at the Head Master’s conference in which he said they should aim for voluntary Chapel which seemed a very long step for him. Wonders if he had read Clutton-Brock’s book and if so what he thought of it. Thought he would offer to preach in Chapel as it was important to have religious teaching other than official Church teaching.

Thanks her for the parcel of chocolates which were very good. Was sorry about the bad news of Violet’s father’s leg. Was afraid this would not increase the chances of Violet staying with them.

Had prepared his lecture for that afternoon which was on the growth of freedom in England.

Was sorry Clare had been unwell and she was to give her his love and tell her Daddy said she must be gay and happy and not cross.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Trenkye [Tinki] Dzong, on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Responds to contents in her letters from 6-10 May mentioning the Hodges, Clare, Bridget’s son, Mary Ann and Stephen. He was feeling happier. He had been nailing the porter's boots. He had planned a two day expedition with Bullock to climb up to about 20,000 ft and see the N. E. face of Everest and had avoided telling Howard-Bury. Morshead had now joined the group. Describes a hill walk and a fragrant flower which he enclosed in the letter hoping it still had some of its scent.

He planned to take photos of the mountain range as they were now in a country which no European had previously visited. The rest of the party were quite cheerful. The food provisions were not proving expensive. Tells her not to be hopeless about the expedition as they may yet do very well. He would think of her on her birthday tomorrow.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Pleased with his photographs and hopes to make some money giving lectures on his return home. He had been unwell and stayed in camp when Bullock had gone on alone but was unable to find a way through the valley. Morshead had arrived and the next day he el better so they joined up with Bullock. Describes their clims, camps and troubles with rations. They were successful in finding the route to the North Col and therefore the route to the summit.

Detailed Summary
He was pleased with his photography efforts and printing which would make excellent slides for lectures. Asks her to keep the prints very carefully. He had written to Hinks suggesting he should give some lectures during the winter. He would let the Committee consider the financial arrangements. Asks her if she would like an American tour. They had received no English mail since 21 July [one month prior] and wonders if floods in Tibet had caused the delay. Says he was no longer in poor health and suspects he had tonsilitis.

Bullock had gone off alone reconnoitring and Morshead had arrived the same morning. He had received a chit from Bullock explaining that the valley would not lead to Everest. He spent the day in bed feeling weak, but the next morning was feeling much stronger. Describes his walk up the first valley to the left with Morshead. He didn’t expect to find a valley leading directly to the north col at the foot of the ridge they wanted to climb. He judged they might find a good way to Everest in that direction.

15 August - Continued trekking with Bullock, met the porters, brought down the tents, and took them a long way up the valley which he and Morshead had reconnoitred. There were complications in the march which caused delays and they ending up short of where he wanted to be with no view of their way. They had an uncomfortable camp perched on a stony hillside with snow falling persistently all evening.

16 August - They followed the ridge above them to the top of a small peak (20,500 ft) which was a 1,700 ft rise in an hour an a quarter. They had a good view point and had a clear hour for photography. They had vague hopes of reaching their objective which was a distant snow col in direct line with the north peak, but then had to descend nearly 1,000 ft and it was bad going over a big glacier. There was thick mist all round them and he felt very, tired with a nasty headache. As it was clearly hopeless they turned back. They reached camp late and it was snowing persistently but they knew where they wanted to go and how to get there.

17 August - A very hesitating move with much discussion of what they might and might not do. The rationing arrangement had broken down badly and they were short of food. He blamed it on the incompetence of the sirdar [sardar] at their base camp. They decided to go on next day with only one porter and sent the rest down to the camp below. They hoped to reach their snow col while the snow was still hard but it was a dim hope because they knew fresh snow had fallen and it was always difficult to estimate how much. They needed their snowshoes despite them being heavy on a long march and having to lift a considerable amount of snow on the snowshoe and it being worse for the leader than anyone following.

They reached the col where there were snow covered rocks above the icefall. It was not an agreeable way of passing time. For most of the time they were enveloped in a thin mist which obscured the view and made, one world of snow and sky.

Morshead, who knew the hottest heat of the plains in India, had said that he had never felt any heat so intolerable as this. They continued plodding on and needed a tremendous and continually conscious effort of the lungs. Up the steep final slopes he found it necessary to stop and breath as hard as he could for a short space in order to gain sufficient energy to push up a few more steps. Bullock and the porter had struggled on behind him and Morshead fell out near the top but re-joined them on the col. The clouds hid the peaks when they got there but the expedition had been a success. As they suspected there was a glacier running north from a cwm under the north east face of Everest. He wished it had been possible to follow it down and find out the secret of its exit. He describes the head of the glacier and that across it lay their way, across easy snow up the other side of the cwm where the approach to the north col, the long wished for goal, could not be difficult nor even long.

As they came down his thoughts were full of this prospect and this success. He didn't know when he had allowed himself so much enjoyment from a personal achievement. This success brought their reconnaissance to an end as they had found the way and they were now planning the attack.

These thoughts were needed during the hours that followed to stimulate the mind as it was the most dismal of processions. Morshead had been cooked going up to the col and later was in a state of collapse. The porters had all left their high camp, leaving three tents standing but they were cold and without provisions so they continued to the base. When daylight failed they missed their way and were compelled to make an arduous ascent up a steep rough hillside. A faint misty moonlight made it possible to step from boulder to boulder but Morshead was compelled to rest at frequent intervals. They continued until 2 am. He came in as fit and strong as ever after a long day in the hills and ate a hearty meal in my dry warm sleeping slack before lying down for untroubled sleep.

He organisation the camps and fuel supply before they went down to the expedition base at Kharta and waited on the weather while organising their push to the summit. He had been told that the monsoon should break at the end of the month and a fine spell should set in with September. [Bad weather ultimately delayed any progress for almost a month].

He was happy and full of the object in front of him although there were many times when his mind was full of her and home.

The expedition was short of candles and a little oil lamp constructed out of a vaseline pot was his light.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written on ‘Mount Everest Expedition’ Letterhead

Brief Summary
Responds to news in her letters. They had been in the same camp for two weeks. He had spent some of the time at the advanced camp climbing with Bullock. Snow had put an end to their climbs and Howard-Bury had ordered them to leave camp and return to the lower one. Bullock carried a pink umbrella on the marches. Didn't think much of Howard-Bury's official accounts of their climbs. Describes other members of the party and their physical fitmess. Was still hoping to attempt to summit but it would depend on the weather.

Detailed Summary
They had received two mail deliveries and everyone in camp spent a long time silently reading their letters. He responds to news in her letter mentioning Bob Morgan, photos of the children, the Keynes, O’Malley, the Fletchers, the Brocks, the Trews [?], and thanks her for being very diligent about circulating his news. He feared his letters had been very dull but had been writing partly for himself as a record which he otherwise wouldn't have made.

He had received a letter from Avie and David who had both enjoyed their visits to Ruth and he had enjoyed hearing about her from them. He had also heard from his mother and father who were very happy after visiting her. His father seemed to be greatly impressed by John [their son]. Mentions Miss Walround, Edith Stopford, the Reads, and that it was nice to hear that Geoffrey Young was anxious to hear his news. Was delighted by photos of the children. Asks in detail about the state of the garden, her upcoming plans, and whether she is going to Westbrook [Ruth's father’s house].

They were still in the same place as over a fortnight ago. Describes working on the upper camp (1st Advanced at 20,000 ft) with supplies, attempting to stay up there, trekking with Bullock and of pitching a tent in the usual snowstorm. Describes the fine granular snow of high altitudes. After a good night’s sleep he had woken to see the roof of his tent hanging inwards and a white world outside and conditions for climbing were entirely hopeless.

He had a Kodak camera to take snapshots of the porters and their snow-bound camp and a quarter-plate to take photos of the mountains. Spent the morning sitting on a rock taking six photographs before a porter arrived bearing a chit from Howard-Bury who had nothing more to say than to urge the obvious. After a debate with Bullock they had packed up the tents, covered the stores and prepared to go down to Howard-Bury’s camp. Bullock had a pink umbrella which he invariably carried on the march.

He had told her little of the movements of the others as he trusted she would have been informed by Howard-Bury’s articles. These were not very informative and he wasn't impressed by them.

They were all together for the first time since Kampa Dzong. Raeburn on his arrival was almost a broken and heart-breaking figure, and when Howard-Bury and Wollaston arrived on 6 September they sketched over some difficulties about stores and had settled down quite amicably. Wollaston was a rather solitary bird who was always jolly and friendly to talk with, but he had the impression that he was more tired of the expedition than the rest of them.

He was happy but thought the month was too late already for their great venture and they would have to face great cold. Feared his hopes and plans for seeing something of India on the way back wouldn't be possible.

The interest remained for him and he felt that when they returned to Darjeeling he wouldn’t leave without regret. He’d like to undertake a few other ascents, less ambitious but perhaps more delightful. He was looking forward to seeing her again.

Wheeler had been taking photographs and Morshead had been keeping him company. There was a shortage of tents due to Raeburn’s unexpected arrival, so Morshead had slept in the tent with Bullock and himself [Mallory]. It was a disorderly but happy arrangement. Wheeler came in to eat with them while the rest had their meals round a table in a pukka mess tent. There was plenty of talk and good cheer but he still thought Wheeler was not a fit man. He Morshead and Bullock made a good trio. Heron had arrived yesterday as cheerful and good natured as ever and he promised him a bit of rock from the summit of Everest.

17 September [letter continues] - the weather had changed and they had woken to find the sky clear and remaining clear. The day before he had enjoyed a good walk with Morshead and Bullock and were rewarded with a beautiful view of Everest. That day he, Morshead and Howard-Bury had ascended a snow peak on the boundary ridge and seen a glorious view. He could see Kangchenjunga [third highest mountain in the world] and all the higher mountains to the East. Makalu straight opposite across the valley was gigantic and Everest at the head of the valley was very fine too. The snow was not melting as it should; above 20,000 ft or so it was powdery under a thin crust and it was impossible to get along without snowshoes, and fears they’ll have to pack up at once if the snow didn't melt properly on the glacier. Morshead was going badly and he [Mallory] was feeling the height a good deal. Altogether his hopes were about zero.

He had been thinking about the children and asked her to kiss them and show them the lozenges below [see drawings at the bottom of the letter] which were meant for special birthday kisses. Tomorrow they were going up again so he was busy.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, written from Government House, Darjeeling

Brief Summary
Had attended a dinner party given in honour of the Expedition Party. Describes his first impressions of members of the expedition party. Describes Darjeeling, the journey on the mountain railway and the disappointing views of the mountains due to the weather.

Detailed Summary
Had received news of her up to 27 April [almost three weeks prior] and was glad she had received his letters from Port Said. He knows there is a coal strike in England. Her letters gave him joy and it was very nice to feel that the children thought of him. He was sending Clare beads sent on to him from Calcutta. He was having a restful time staying in the Guest House, but they had not escaped the pomp and circumstance. He attended a dinner party given for the Expedition by the Ambassador.

They would be two days late when they started the next day. He describes Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Wheeler, Morshead [a very nice man], Heron and Kellas [who he loved already]. He had drawn the outline of Kellas’ head. Howard-Bury seemed to be quite good at the organisation and got on with Raeburn who was very dictatorial.

Darjeeling was a wonderfully beautiful place. The journey on the mountain railway was lovely with very steep foothills, densely wooded except where cultivated. The train wound among the ridges and hillsides and continually gave them great views over the plains opening through the forest. What most delighted him was the forest itself.

The views of the mountains had been disappointing. The mules which they were to follow later were loaded up and there were torrents of rain overnight. He expected to start forth rather a grotesque figure. He lists his equipment together with a silk cover, rucksack, and sun umbrella. There would be fairly frequent news updates and tells her to take the Geographical Journal.

Was concerned for her in relation to the coal strike. Sends his love to the Clutton-Brocks. Left it to her to decide about sending round anything he wrote.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from ‘Rongbuk Base Camp’

Brief Summary
Change of plans. He and Somervell to go to No. 3 Camp. Longstaff ill.

Detailed Summary
Was distressed to hear she was ill and hopes she’ll be able to take a planned trip to Wales.

The Tibetan porters had suddenly deserted and so the whole problem of fixing the camp was altered. General Bruce’s new plan was for Mallory and Somervell to go straight to No. 3 Camp (the one below the North Col) and cut steps up to the col, establish a camp and then get as high up the mountain as they can. He thought this would be a tremendous undertaking at this stage.

Was sending her pages from his diary which would explain some of their plans though not quite up to date. The reconnaissance party had found a good route to No. 3 Camp. This was located about where the 21,000 contour hits the North peak, on good moraines at the corner and only about an hour before the slopes leading up to the col. Strutt, Morshead, and Norton came back yesterday but Longstaff, who wasn’t well spent the night at No. 1 Camp and was due to come down that day on a stretcher. Feared he had strained his heart, and also had some throat trouble.

Is sorry he can’t write a better letter when hers are full of love. Wants to show how much he thinks of her and wants her with him to talk to. Is content that she is at home and he has her and the children to return to which makes a happy background to his life here.
Most of his news is in the diary. Feels Somervell to be his very good friend. Young Bruce was also coming up with them to No. 3 Camp. He had been very fit and cheerful. His tummy was slightly out of order today, has little doubt it will be better. Still hadn’t received any new shoes by the mail.

[Postscript up the side margin] - Asks her to tell his Mother that he had been prevented from dealing with the mail and consequently from writing to her. Asks her to thank Clare and Berry for their letters.

Letter to Ruth Mallory from Camp 3.

Full Transcript

I write to you on the eve of our departure for the highest we can reach - just because I shall feel happier in case of difficulties to think that I have sent you a message of love. The difficulties will be such as we know in all human probability; our endurance and will to go on taking precautions are less known factors - but with such good people as these are I feel sure that we shall all be anxious to help each other and that after all, provided competent mountaineers is the great safeguard.

I have very good hopes with the coolies fit and cheerful that we shall establish a camp well above Chang La [North Col] the day after to-morrow- you realise I except that Norton and Morshead who came up the day I wrote to you last have joined S. [Somervell] and me, the four of us will be sleeping at the North Col to-morrow night and we hope about 25,000 the following night – and then!

I can’t say that I feel stronger for the days here (since the 12th) or weaker either for that matter. S [Somervell] says he went better up to Chang La [North Col] yesterday than on the 13th. Well it’s all on the knees of the gods and they are bare cold knees. We shan’t get to the top; if we reach the shoulder at 27400 it will be better than anyone here expects.

Dearest one, you must know that the spur to do my best is you and you again - in moments of depression or lack of confidence or overwhelming fatigue I want more than anything to prove worthy of you. All my love to you. Many kisses to Clare and Beridge, and John. Ever Your loving, George.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from the S.S. Caledonia [P. & O. S. N. Co. Letterhead]

Brief Summary
Been inoculated against typhoid so couldn't do exercise. Discusses book by Baudouin. Refers to Ghandi's arrest and strikes.

Detailed Summary
Nearing end of voyage and he had rather enjoyed myself. He had been rising early and sitting alone in the early sun. He was inoculated against typhoid two days ago and so was debarred from such activities as Max Mullers, ‘My System’, skipping and running because they were too painful. He was wearing the old khaki silk shirt she gave him and mended the other day, my shorts, and a pair of gym shoes.

Wants more seasoned silence and collected meditation. Gives a detailed criticism of Baudouin’s book, discussing the law of reversed effort and its potential application to children. He was going to send her the book and suggests she carefully read the part about the practices of auto-suggestion and suggests they practice this with Clare [daughter] to help with her little troubles of competitiveness with other children. Was also sending her back The Revision of the Peace Treaty which was well worth reading - one could skip some of the figures.

He expected to be in Bombay the next morning and refers to Ghandi’s arrest. They had heard in Aden of a general strike on the railways. He missed seeing the papers. Comments on the Curzon affair.

It had been a fortnight since he had left and he supposed the flowers were blooming in their garden at home. Asks her to report on specific plants to him and mentions Clutton-Brock and Beagly. His next letter would be from Darjeeling and should be more interesting, though he didn't expect there would be much time for writing.

Letter to Ruth Mallory, from Phari.

Brief Summary
Details journey. Had a cold. Was in charge of climbing equipment. Had helped Noel develop photos and cinema films. Was awaiting new boots. Low opinion of Howard-Bury's book about the 1921 Reconnaissance expedition. Opinion of Wakefield and Strutt. Glad to have received money from RGS.

Detailed Summary
He had received two of her letters and was now in bed, alone in a 40 lb tent after having stayed in a bungalow, which was made to hold four and there were eleven of them. There was an inch of snow on the ground outside but he was warm in his sleeping bag and well wrapped in his lamb’s wool jacket.

Tibet was less disagreeable than he expected. When they entered the plains there was no fierce wind and the sun was warm, and the night air was no colder than it was nearly two months later the previous year. He was surprised to experience a friendly feeling towards this bleak country on seeing it again. He still had the cold with which he had left Darjeeling. He felt the height a bit at Gnatong after the 10,000 ft rise and none of them were at their best there, but coming up again after the two days at Yatung (9,500 ft) was exhilarating.

They had a busy day sorting stores and it was his job to look after all the climbing equipment. They had about 900 packages so it was not easy to lay hands on any particular one. He was able to help Noel with developing photos, some of which were very good and had also helped with the cinema films. He describes Noel’s camera equipment and developing process in detail.

[7 April] - English mail had arrived and he had received a copy of the Manchester Guardian Weekly, but had not got the shoes that were promised. He was wearing out his climbing boots so had written to Farrar to hurry them up. The second lot of proofs of the Everest book had arrived containing the end of Howard-Bury’s story which was worse if possible than the second part. There were quite a number of remarks pointing to their weaknesses and he provides specific examples of what Howard-Bury wrote involving Wheeler, himself and Morshead, and Bullock, without mentioning the ultimate success of their expedition. On the larger issues of the reconnaissance he had not been unfair to him but he didn’t like sharing a book with that sort of man. Asks her to subscribe to a Press Cutting Agency as he would like to see the reviews.

He was going to postpone giving a complete account of the various members of the party as he hoped that may come out in degrees. They all got along very nicely with the possible exception of Wakefield. Despite having some criticisms Wakefield was a really good man. Strutt was much too easily put off by petty discomforts and he doubted if he would turn out to be a helpful person, although he did get on with him very well. Norton was one of the best. Morshead was naturally more his friend than anyone.

It was extraordinarily difficult to settle down and write at length with so much bustle going on and continual interruptions and he had wasted some part of the morning taking photos. He liked her letter very much and provides responses to the topics in her letter, mentioning Stuart Wilson, concerns for Clare, and is sorry that Clara isn’t back with her yet to cook.

[8th April] - glad the Royal Geographic Society had paid a debt. Had heard that the lectures brought in £1800 which was more than expected and he hoped there would be some more for him as £400 was too small a share.

Refers to her account that Avie [his sister] was unwell and that she had taken in Molly, Mrs Smart and Drew. Sends his love to her family, the Clutton-Brocks, and the Fletchers.