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Persona · 4 June 1879 - 2 August 1965

Percy Lubbock was born on 4 June 1879 in London, the fourth child of Frederic Lubbock, merchant banker, and his wife, Catherine. He was educated at Eton College, then at King's College, Cambridge, where he was placed in the first class for the classical tripos in 1901.

After university Lubbock worked for the Board of Education in a post he found 'uncongenial'. In 1906 he was elected Pepys Librarian at Magdalene College. In that year his first book, Elizabeth Barrett Browning in her Letters, was published. In 1908 he gave up his post in order to devote himself to writing, and in 1909 he published Samuel Pepys.

Lubbock contributed regularly to the Times Literary Supplement between 1908 and 1914 and during the First World War worked on behalf of the Red Cross. Henry James was his idol and friend and after James's death in 1916 Lubbock orchestrated the publication of the unfinished works (The Ivory Tower, The Sense of the Past, and The Middle Years), a two-volume collection of letters, and a memoir.

In 1925 he published an edition of A. C. Benson's Diary, commemorating the Eton schoolmaster whose recommendation had secured Lubbock the post of Pepys Librarian.

In 1926 Lubbock married Lady Sybil Marjorie Scott (1879–1943). They lived at Villa Medici in Fiesole, Italy, for the next fourteen years. In the late 1940s Lubbock moved to Lerici on the Gulf of La Spezia and into his much prized Gli Scafari. He was appointed CBE in 1952. He died at Gli Scafari on 2 August 1965 and was buried at Lerici.

Persona · 5 May 1888 - 19 November 1970

Vere Cotton was born on 5 May 1888, son of Charles Calveley Cotton and Kate de la Rue. He was educated at Repton School and Magdalene College (matric. 1907).
He fought in the First World War, where he was mentioned in despatches three times. He was awarded the Croca de Guerra and the Croix de Guerre and gained the rank of Honrary Colonel in the 470 Heavy AA Regiment, Royal Artillery (Territorial Army).
In 1922 he married Elfreda Helen Moore.
He was appointed CBE in 1937.
Between 1942 and 1954 he was Pro-Chancellor of Liverpol University and was Lord Mayor of Liverpool between 1951 and 1952. In 1956 he was the High Sheriff of Lancashire.
He died on 19 November 1970.

Persona · 1902-1924

Andrew C. Irvine was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition. He disappeared with George Mallory attempting to summit Mount Everest in 1924. His body has not been discovered (George Mallory's body was discovered in 1999).

Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine was born at 56 Park Road South, Birkenhead, Cheshire, on 8 April 1902, the second son and third of six children of William Fergusson Irvine (1869–1962), a merchant trading with Africa and a distinguished Cheshire antiquary, and his wife, Lilian Davies-Colley (d.1950), daughter of Thomas Charles Davies-Colley, a Manchester solicitor. He had four brothers and a sister.

He was educated at Birkenhead preparatory school, Shrewsbury School, and Merton College, Oxford, where he matriculated on 24 January 1922 to study engineering. He was tall and stout, with a muscular physique, and was nicknamed Sandy because of his blonde hair and fair complexion. He was known as a powerful oarsman at Shrewsbury and Oxford, and gained his blue as a freshman in 1922, when he rowed no. 2 against Cambridge.

In 1923 he joined a sledging party to Spitsbergen with Noel Odell, who recommended him for the Everest expedition in 1924. Despite Irvine's inexperience as a climber, Mallory appears to have chosen him as his partner on Everest because he valued his mechanical ability with the unreliable oxygen apparatus, admired his strength and stamina, and may have seen him as a protégé. He died alongside Mallory in the final attempt to summit in June 1924. His body has never been recovered.

A memorial to him, by Eric Gill, was placed in Merton College grove. Irvine's Everest diaries were published in 1979.

Persona · 4 December 1896 - 31 January 1972

Geoffrey Bruce was a member of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions.

He was an officer in the British Indian Army, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new mountaineering world record height of 8,300 metres (27,300 ft), only 520 metres (1,700 ft) below the summit of Mount Everest.

Persona · 17 January 1887 - 5 August 1966

Major Richard William George Hingston was an Irish physician, explorer and naturalist, and was the medical officer on the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition.

He was the son of Reverend Richard Edward Hull Kingston of Aglish, County Waterford, and Frances Sandiford. Most of his early life was spent in the family home at Horsehead in Passage West, County Cork. He was educated at Merchant Taylors' School and at University College Cork. He graduated from the National University of Ireland with first-class honours in 1910, and almost immediately obtained a position in the Indian Medical Service. In 1913, he was seconded from military duty as naturalist to the Indo-Russian Pamir triangulation expedition. In 1914 he went on war service and saw action in East Africa, France, Mesopotamia, and the N.W. Frontier, gaining two mentions in dispatches and the Military Cross for gallantry in action. He wrote several books based on his travels and natural history observations.

Persona · 1870-1954

Assistant Master of Rugby School, 1894-1903; Master of Malborough College, 1903-1911 (first layman to hold this post); Headmaster of Charterhouse, 1911-1935. He was Headmaster of Charterhouse during George Mallory's time there. In 1902 he married Dorothy Pope. He was knighted in 1937.

Goodfellow, Alan
Persona

Alan Goodfellow was a pupil of George Mallory at Charterhouse School. He joined Mallory on some of his climbing trips.

Persona · 1868-1924

Arthur Clutton-Brock was a lawyer and writer and friend of George Mallory and his wife Ruth. George and Ruth first met at a dinner held in the autumn of 1913 at the house of the Clutton-Brocks in Hindhead Road which wound up from the Wey Valley towards Charterhouse where George was teaching. Ruth lived with her father and two sisters at Westbrook, an elegant mansion, on the far side of the Wey Valley.

He was married to Evelyn who was also a friend of both George Mallory and his wife Ruth.

Heber-Percy, Hugh
Persona

Former Charterhouse pupil of George Mallory's. Part of a climbing party at Pen y Pass in Wales in 1915 before starting an officers' training course at Sandhurst.

Persona · 1856–1943

Herbert Leigh-Mallory was a clergyman and the father of George Mallory, Trafford Leigh-Mallory, the World War II Royal Air Force commander, and 2 daughters Mary and Avie. He changed his surname from Mallory to Leigh-Mallory in 1914. He was married to Annie Beridge (1863-1946) and they lived in a ten bedroom house on Hobcroft Lane in Mobberley.

Persona · 4 April 1867 – 5 January 1950

Basil Williams was born in London on 4 April 1867, the only son of Frederick George Adolphus Williams, barrister, and his wife, Mary Katharine Lemon. He was educated at Marlborough College and New College, Oxford. He volunteered for service in the South African wars and then spent time working in the education department. After returning to England he dedicated himself to a career as an historian.

In 1905 he married Dorothy Caulfeild. They had two sons, one of whom (John) taught George Mallory to ski.

He died at 46 Amhurst Park, Stoke Newington, London, on 5 January 1950.

Persona · 25 March 1887 - 12 May1982

Friend of George Mallory.

Born in Cambridge on 25 March 1887, son of (John) Neville Keynes (1852–1949), lecturer in moral science and later university registrary, and his wife, Florence Ada (1861–1958). His brother was John Maynard Keynes.
He was educated from 1901 at Rugby School, before going to Pembroke College, Cambridge in 1906 (of which he was made an honorary fellow in 1965), to study natural sciences, in which he received a first class (part one, 1909). He graduated MA (1913), BChir (1914), and MD (1918). He also became FRCS (1920), FRCP (1953), FRCOG (1950), and FRCS (Canada, 1956).

On 12 May 1917 he married Margaret Elizabeth Darwin, the daughter of Sir George Howard Darwin and granddaughter of Charles Darwin. They had one daughter, who died in infancy, and four sons.

Persona · 24 July 1895 - 7 December 1985

Robert Graves had been a pupil at Charterhouse when George Mallory was a Master there. Mallory introduced him to contemporary literature and took him mountaineering in the holidays.

At the outbreak of the First World War Graves enlisted taking a commission in the 3rd Battalion of the Royal Welch Fusiliers as a second lieutenant (on probation) on 12 August. He was confirmed in his rank on 10 March 1915, and received rapid promotions to lieutenant on 5 May 1915 and to captain on 26 October.

He published his first volume of poems, Over the Brazier, in 1916. He developed an early reputation as a war poet and was one of the first to write realistic poems about the experience of frontline conflict. At the Battle of the Somme, he was so badly wounded by a shell-fragment through the lung that he was expected to die and was officially reported as having died of wounds. He gradually recovered and, apart from a brief spell back in France, spent the remainder of the war in England.

Persona · 8 March 1853 - 11 December 1937

Hugh Thackeray Turner was born in Foxearth, Essex, the son of Rev. John Richard Turner (a Church of England vicar) and his wife Harriet.

After leaving Newbery Grammar School he was apprenticed to the architect Sir George Gilbert Scott. In 1877 Turner began work on his own account. He was also employed by Scott's sons, John Oldrid and George Gilbert junior, becoming the latter's chief assistant.

Turner left Scott's office to become Secretary for The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (founded by William Morris in 1877). His job was to investigate, inspect and report on buildings at risk from insensitive restoration. He held the post until 1911.

On 19 July 1888 he married Mary Elizabeth (May) Powell (1854–1907). May became a leading member of the arts and crafts movement in her own right, exhibiting needlework and founding the Women's Guild of Arts with May Morris. The couple had three daughters, the second of whom, Ruth, married George Mallory in July 1914.

In 1898 Turner designed his own home Westbrook in Godalming, which with the assistance of Gertrude Jekyll's assistance was surrounded by a much admired garden.

After a long retirement he died of pyelonephritis on 11 December 1937 in London.

Persona · 18 June 1887 - 19 December 1974

Maurice Platnauer was Principal of Brasenose College, Oxford, from 1956 to 1960. He was educated at Shrewsbury School and New College, Oxford. A classicist, he was a master at Winchester College from 1910 to 1915. During World War One he was an officer with the Royal Garrison Artillery and met up with George Mallory. In 1922 he became a Fellow of Brasenose College, Oxford. He was Vice-Principal of Brasenose from 1936 to 1956; and Editor of the Classical Quarterly from 1936 to 1947; and an Honorary Fellow of New College from 1957.

Brooke, Rupert (1887-1915), poet
Persona · 1887-1915

Rupert Brooke studied Classics at King's College, Cambridge between 1906 and 1909 where he met and became friends with Hugh Dalton. He became involved in various Cambridge groups, and was widely acknowledged as a handsome and charismatic figure about the university. He was a member of the Fabian Society and the Marlowe Dramatic Society both of which George Mallory was also a member.

Thompson, Rupert
Persona

An old friend of George Mallory's, whom he had known since the climbing days at Pen y Pass in Wales.

Persona · 7 October 1866 - 17 November 1938

Jørgen Peter Müller was a Danish gymnastics educator and author.

His book Mit System (My System), published in 1904, was a bestseller and has been translated to English and many other languages. My System explains Müller's philosophy of health and provides guidelines for the 18 exercises that comprise the system, as well as photographic instructions featuring Müller himself. The book was the most successful physical culture book published in Britain during the early twentieth century. Müller moved to London and opened a physical culture institute in 1912.

Persona · 1883-1963

Lt. Col. Charles K. Howard-Bury, Leader of the 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition.

Born at Charleville Castle, King's County, Ireland, the only son of Captain Kenneth Howard-Bury (1846–1885) and Lady Emily Alfreda Julia, daughter of Charles Bury, 3rd Earl of Charleville. He was educated at Eton and the Royal Military College, Sandhurst.

He was interested in climbing in his youth and climbed the larger routes in the Austrian Alps. In 1904 he joined the King's Royal Rifle Corps and was posted to India, where he went travelling and big game-hunting. At the beginning of World War I he rejoined his regiment and served with distinction as a frontline officer on the Somme and throughout the conflict. He was captured during the German Spring Offensive of 1918, and then made a dramatic escape from his prisoner-of-war camp, before being recaptured ten days later.

In 1921 he became the leader of the first Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition which was organised and financed by the Mount Everest Committee (a joint body of the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society). In 1922 he wrote a full account of the expedition, published as Mount Everest The Reconnaissance, 1921. In 1922 he was awarded the Founder's Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society for his leadership of the expedition.

Persona · 23 July 1887 - 12 April 1956

Guy Bullock was a member of the 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition.

As expedition mountaineers, Guy Bullock and George Mallory found a northern access route to Everest by climbing the 6,849-metre (22,470 ft) Lhakpa La col above the East Rongbuk Glacier and by going on to reach the North Col at 7,020 metres (23,030 ft). They did not, however, reach the summit of Mount Everest.

Shortly before the 1921 Everest expedition was due to embark, one of the climbing team was asked to drop out (Finch) and Mallory suggested Bullock as a replacement. The Foreign Office rejected Younghusband's request to grant leave to Bullock, who was in Lima at the time, to join the expedition but he gained a special dispensation from the British Foreign Secretary, Lord Curzon, so he could have leave on half pay until the end of 1921 but with no chance of this being renewed.  Bullock and his wife sailed for Bombay on the SS Naldera, arriving on 30 April 1921. The expedition had a climbing team of four but, of the two most experienced members, one died doing the march-in (Kellas) and the other was taken ill (Raeburn). This left only two main climbers, Mallory and Bullock. Bullock was a well-organised person, able to get on well with almost everybody. He was steady and cheerful, and so was a very good companion for Mallory (the better climber). Bullock was reunited with his wife at Lachen in the Teesta valley in Sikkim on 8 October and they eventually sailed home from Bombay.

Bullock's diary of the expedition was published in 1962 in the Alpine Journal. Bullock had previously declined to lend the diary to Mallory who had been wanting to make use of it for his lectures after the expedition.

He died in a London hospital in 1956.

Persona · 21 June 1868 - 5 June 1921

Dr Alexander Kellas was a member of the 1921 British Mount Everest Expedition. He died en route to Mount Everest.

Kellas was born on 21 June 1868 in Aberdeen, the son of James Fowler Kellas, secretary to the local marine board, and his wife, Mary Boyd. He was educated at Aberdeen grammar school and then attended Aberdeen University, Heriot-Watt College in Edinburgh, and Heidelberg University, where he gained a PhD. He was keenly interested in chemistry and even more enthusiastic for mountaineering. The two interests combined to make him pre-eminent for a time in the field of high-altitude physiology. He was able to combine research at low pressure in the laboratory with practical studies at altitude in the Himalayas.

Kellas had a great love for wild mountain places. He was not given to technical climbing but was supremely interested in mountain geography and exploration, in the course of which he reached numerous unclimbed Himalayan summits. He began mountaineering in the Cairngorms while a student at Aberdeen University.

In his late thirties Kellas made his first visit to the Himalayas. He made six expeditions to Sikkim from 1907 to 1920. He did a phenomenal amount of climbing and yet very little is known about him because he was of a retiring nature and wrote very little of his achievements. Unusual in that he generally climbed without European companions, he was accompanied by an ever loyal group of local porters whom he trained in the basic alpine skills. He possessed phenomenal energy and tenacity.

During the First World War, Kellas channelled his energies into high-altitude research and the effect of diminished atmospheric pressure on human physiology, a subject of great importance to the Air Ministry.

In 1919 Kellas suffered a breakdown in health from overwork, resigned his lectureship in London, and returned to Aberdeen. He recovered the following year and set out again for the Himalayas to carry out more experiments at altitude on himself and his high-altitude porters. He reached a height of 23,622 ft on Kamet. After several months in the Garhwal he travelled over to Sikkim, where in November 1920 he climbed north of the Kang La to obtain photographs of the peaks north of Everest that were then unknown.

Kellas returned to the Kang La region in April 1921 and climbed a higher peak to see more of Everest's north side. He then climbed Narsingh (19,110 ft) before turning his attention to working out a way through the icefall on Kabru. He had time to reach only 21,000 ft. He returned to Darjeeling just one week before he was to join the first expedition to Mount Everest, led by Charles Kenneth Howard-Bury.

Kellas was chosen to be a member of the climbing team of four at the age of 53. He had far more experience of high-altitude climbing than any contemporary. He had alone built up a good rapport with the Sherpa Bhotias hill men and, by emphasising the importance of adequate training and of treating them with respect, had shown their value to any mountaineering enterprise.

After only a week of rest from his attempts to see more of the Everest region and his prolonged work on Kabru, Kellas had no time to recuperate properly for the rigours of the Tibetan plateau. He went down with dysentery and had to be carried on a stretcher. Just before Kampa Dzong the accumulated strain of his spring climbing, the biting cold of the plateau, and rampant dysentery overtaxed his heart. He died, on 5 June 1921, among his faithful porters, as he had insisted his countrymen went on ahead.

Kellas was buried on a hillside to the south of Kampa Dzong in sight of the peaks of Sikkim, where he had made so many first ascents.