Assistant Master of Rugby School, 1894-1903; Master of Malborough College, 1903-1911 (first layman to hold this post); Headmaster of Charterhouse, 1911-1935. He was Headmaster of Charterhouse during George Mallory's time there. In 1902 he married Dorothy Pope. He was knighted in 1937.
John de Vars Hazard was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition.
Major Richard William George Hingston was an Irish physician, explorer and naturalist, and was the medical officer on the 1924 Mount Everest Expedition.
He was the son of Reverend Richard Edward Hull Kingston of Aglish, County Waterford, and Frances Sandiford. Most of his early life was spent in the family home at Horsehead in Passage West, County Cork. He was educated at Merchant Taylors' School and at University College Cork. He graduated from the National University of Ireland with first-class honours in 1910, and almost immediately obtained a position in the Indian Medical Service. In 1913, he was seconded from military duty as naturalist to the Indo-Russian Pamir triangulation expedition. In 1914 he went on war service and saw action in East Africa, France, Mesopotamia, and the N.W. Frontier, gaining two mentions in dispatches and the Military Cross for gallantry in action. He wrote several books based on his travels and natural history observations.
Geoffrey Bruce was a member of the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest Expeditions.
He was an officer in the British Indian Army, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new mountaineering world record height of 8,300 metres (27,300 ft), only 520 metres (1,700 ft) below the summit of Mount Everest.
Andrew C. Irvine was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition. He disappeared with George Mallory attempting to summit Mount Everest in 1924. His body has not been discovered (George Mallory's body was discovered in 1999).
Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine was born at 56 Park Road South, Birkenhead, Cheshire, on 8 April 1902, the second son and third of six children of William Fergusson Irvine (1869–1962), a merchant trading with Africa and a distinguished Cheshire antiquary, and his wife, Lilian Davies-Colley (d.1950), daughter of Thomas Charles Davies-Colley, a Manchester solicitor. He had four brothers and a sister.
He was educated at Birkenhead preparatory school, Shrewsbury School, and Merton College, Oxford, where he matriculated on 24 January 1922 to study engineering. He was tall and stout, with a muscular physique, and was nicknamed Sandy because of his blonde hair and fair complexion. He was known as a powerful oarsman at Shrewsbury and Oxford, and gained his blue as a freshman in 1922, when he rowed no. 2 against Cambridge.
In 1923 he joined a sledging party to Spitsbergen with Noel Odell, who recommended him for the Everest expedition in 1924. Despite Irvine's inexperience as a climber, Mallory appears to have chosen him as his partner on Everest because he valued his mechanical ability with the unreliable oxygen apparatus, admired his strength and stamina, and may have seen him as a protégé. He died alongside Mallory in the final attempt to summit in June 1924. His body has never been recovered.
A memorial to him, by Eric Gill, was placed in Merton College grove. Irvine's Everest diaries were published in 1979.
Vere Cotton was born on 5 May 1888, son of Charles Calveley Cotton and Kate de la Rue. He was educated at Repton School and Magdalene College (matric. 1907).
He fought in the First World War, where he was mentioned in despatches three times. He was awarded the Croca de Guerra and the Croix de Guerre and gained the rank of Honrary Colonel in the 470 Heavy AA Regiment, Royal Artillery (Territorial Army).
In 1922 he married Elfreda Helen Moore.
He was appointed CBE in 1937.
Between 1942 and 1954 he was Pro-Chancellor of Liverpol University and was Lord Mayor of Liverpool between 1951 and 1952. In 1956 he was the High Sheriff of Lancashire.
He died on 19 November 1970.
Percy Lubbock was born on 4 June 1879 in London, the fourth child of Frederic Lubbock, merchant banker, and his wife, Catherine. He was educated at Eton College, then at King's College, Cambridge, where he was placed in the first class for the classical tripos in 1901.
After university Lubbock worked for the Board of Education in a post he found 'uncongenial'. In 1906 he was elected Pepys Librarian at Magdalene College. In that year his first book, Elizabeth Barrett Browning in her Letters, was published. In 1908 he gave up his post in order to devote himself to writing, and in 1909 he published Samuel Pepys.
Lubbock contributed regularly to the Times Literary Supplement between 1908 and 1914 and during the First World War worked on behalf of the Red Cross. Henry James was his idol and friend and after James's death in 1916 Lubbock orchestrated the publication of the unfinished works (The Ivory Tower, The Sense of the Past, and The Middle Years), a two-volume collection of letters, and a memoir.
In 1925 he published an edition of A. C. Benson's Diary, commemorating the Eton schoolmaster whose recommendation had secured Lubbock the post of Pepys Librarian.
In 1926 Lubbock married Lady Sybil Marjorie Scott (1879–1943). They lived at Villa Medici in Fiesole, Italy, for the next fourteen years. In the late 1940s Lubbock moved to Lerici on the Gulf of La Spezia and into his much prized Gli Scafari. He was appointed CBE in 1952. He died at Gli Scafari on 2 August 1965 and was buried at Lerici.
Edward Shebbeare was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition, serving as transport officer. He was the deputy leader and transport officer of the 1933 expedition and served as transport officer on the 1929 German Kanchenjunga expedition. In 1928, he was a founding member of The Himalayan Club. He was also a keen naturalist, particularly interested in rhinoceros and elephant conservation. In 1940, he was the founding president of the Malayan Nature Society.
Noel Odell was a member of the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition and last person to see George Mallory and Andrew Irvine alive.
In 1924 Odell was an oxygen officer on the Everest expedition. He spent two weeks living above 23,000 ft and twice climbed to 26,800 ft and higher, without supplemental oxygen. In 1936 Noel Odell with Bill Tilman climbed Nanda Devi, at the time the highest mountain climbed.
On 8 June 1924 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine attempted to summit Mount Everest via the Northeast Ridge route. Odell reported seeing them at 12:50 p.m. ascending one of the major "steps" on the North-East ridge, "the last step but one from the base of the final pyramid" and "going strongly for the top." The is no evidence to prove reached the summit, or that they ascended above the major second step. They never returned and died on the mountain.
In his first two accounts, written between June and November 1924, Odell was certain he had seen Mallory and Irvine climbing the second step, but in the expedition account published in 1925, and after mounting skepticism from members of the climbing community as to whether it was the second step or the lower first step, Odell conceded it might have been the first step. After he had been rejected as too old for the next Everest expedition, he recanted his change of mind and returned to the belief that he had seen the two climbers on the second step. Had they done climbed this, there would have been a fair chance that one of them, at least, might have reached the summit.
Nicholas Ferrar was a merchant in London. He is the most senior figure in the line of the Ferrar family whose papers were left to Magdalene College, Cambridge.
Educated at Clare Hall/College; Fellow of Clare. From 1618 to 1624 he was director to the affairs of the Virginia Company. Ferrar was ordained as a deacon in 1626 and founded the small Anglican community of Little Gidding, Huntingdonshire, shortly after his mother Mary Ferrar purchased the land there in 1624.
Nephew of actor William Poel. Created the Cambridge Marlowe Dramatic Society in 1907. Friend of George Mallory
Born in 1841 and educated at Winchester and New College, Oxford, where he was a Fellow from 1864 to 1867 and president of the Oxford Union in 1864. He was ordained deacon in 1867 and priest the following year. He married Mary Freeman, the daughter of an Archdeacon of Exeter when he became Headmaster of Durham School. He was Examining Chaplain to the Bishop of Newcastle from 1882 to 1884 when he returned to Winchester, where he was Headmaster until 1901. He was Archdeacon of Winchester from 1903 to 1920, Examining Chaplain to the Bishop of Winchester from 1903 to 1915; and Canon of Winchester from 1906 until 1920.